To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews ------------------------------------------------------------------------ There are 9 messages in this issue. Topics in this digest: 1. RE: sandblasting From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 2. Very basic question about SS clutch line replacement From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty@xxxxxxx> 3. Re: Spark Advance During Cold Start From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx> 4. Re: sandblasting From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx> 5. VIN 10115 Update From: Louie Golden <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx> 6. Re: Where to check for water leaks into the car? From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx> 7. Delorean seen in FHM! From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob@xxxxxxxxxxx> 8. Speedometer Recalibration From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob@xxxxxxxxxxx> 9. Holiday cards From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx> ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 1 Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 21:20:10 -0800 From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: RE: sandblasting Mike, I have all the sand blasting equipment. What do you need done. They would need to be sealed after you do it or the aluminum may oxidize again. John -----Original Message----- From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx [mailto:billsfanmd@xxxxxxx] Subject: [DML] sandblasting After seeing a few of the coolant pipes on ebay that have been sandblasted I was wondering how much is involved to actually do this yourself? Is there a tool or sandblasting system you can buy retail to do this yourself? ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 2 Date: Tue, 09 Dec 2003 08:16:29 -0000 From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty@xxxxxxx> Subject: Very basic question about SS clutch line replacement I recently purchased the SS clutch line and while reading through the archives I thought of something. Now, keep in mind, my car is 350 miles away from me right, now so it brings me satisfaction to read about it when I can't be working on it. The downside is that I can't walk into my garage and do an inspection when I think of something. So here goes... It was my understanding that the clutch line connects from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder, and that the slave cylinder can only be accessed while the transaxle is out. Does this mean to replace the old plastic clutch line, the transaxle must come out??? The slave cylinder on my car was replaced just prior to my ownership so I'm not concerned about it at this time. On a related note, the drain plug bolt on the bottom driver-side of my transaxle looks 'moist.' There is no puddle formed, even after sitting in the same place for 4 months, but it has a wet look to it. What could this mean? The liquid feels oily and clear color. thanks as always! Matt #1604 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 3 Date: Tue, 09 Dec 2003 14:47:56 -0000 From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Spark Advance During Cold Start Actually you don't want any spark advance when cranking. Makes car harder to start. Bill Robertson #5939 >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx> wrote: > What exactly are your symptoms? Assuming you are trying to start the > car from a cold start and it starts normally when warm you should > check all the systems that are activated when the motor is cold. That > includes the vacuum advance system for the ignition and the cold start > valve. ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 4 Date: Tue, 09 Dec 2003 15:14:33 -0000 From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: sandblasting What you are asking for requires a large investment in an air compressor, floor space, money, and a blasting cabinet. Look in Eastwood or T.I.P. for it. An alternative for the less serious user would be an electric drill and a wire brush. Or you could find someone locally to bring the parts to, to have blasted. Look in a Hemmings Motor News also under "Services" for people who do this kind of work or "Parts and Supplies" for the tools to do it yourself. It is a very messy job without a blast cabinet and some parts will be too large for most cabinets (like rims). The larger the cabinet the more expensive of course. If you do blast parts they must be quickly primed or painted or they will corrode so you will also need painting equipment. Aluminum less so than steel but if you want to prevent corrosion you have to do something. You can also find used equipment at car shows or on E-Bay. When you add up what this will cost you, you will discover that unless you have a lot of work to do it doesn't make sense to do it yourself. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, billsfanmd@xxxx wrote: > After seeing a few of the coolant pipes on ebay that have been sandblasted I was wondering how much is involved to actually do this yourself? Is there a tool or sandblasting system you can buy retail to do this yourself? As part of our ongoing restorations of these cars it would be nice to clean and sandblast parts as we need to make repairs... > > Mike C ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 5 Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 08:08:50 -0800 (PST) From: Louie Golden <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: VIN 10115 Update Hey Group, As promised I called the new owner of my wrecked VIN 10115 to see what his plans for the car were. I mentioned before that the car went to a body shop in China Grove, NC. It turns out the buyer was in fact a DeLorean owner already. He bought #10115 to be a guinea pig for a Corvette LS1 conversion he wants to do to his DeLorean. We both plan on keeping in contact, and I'm going to try and get him to go to Pigeon Forge next year. Louie Golden VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 6 Date: Tue, 09 Dec 2003 15:26:01 -0000 From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Where to check for water leaks into the car? There was a service bulletin issued by DMC on sealing body leaks. You can buy it from the Delorean venders. I don't know if it is sold separately but it comes in a book of all the service bulletins and recalls. It has also been reprinted in some of the Delorean magazines from time to time if you can get your hands on one. I think it was in an old DW. If your inertia switch was by the gas pedal make sure it has a splotch of white paint on it. If it doesn't, get the updated one and mount it on the side near the bonnet release as per the recall. Remove the carpets, dry them thoughly and use something with a mildewcide in it so you don't get mold growing under the carpet. When you get that much water in a car and you park it in the sun on a hot day the windows will fog up from all of the moisture so dry it out completely. You might consider a good car cover if you leave it out in the rain again. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, PRC1216@xxxx wrote: > Hey All. > I took my D on its first long trip over Thanksgiving (longest trip since I have owned it). It rained for a full day on the car in the parking lot, and when I went out to check on it after 10 hours of constant drizzle, I reached and felt under the carpet where your feet go and it was SOAKED underneath. This was on the passenger side and the driver's side. I could see standing water next to the seats when I lifted the carpet up. Frantic, I stole all the towels I could find and mopped the water out every 3 hours. When I got home I used a garden hose and found that water was leaking where the old inertia switch used ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 7 Date: Tue, 09 Dec 2003 19:09:21 -0000 From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Delorean seen in FHM! For those of you who collect every Delorean related article, this months FHM features "McFly's Ride" on page 60. It is advertising some video game or something. Thought I would mention it. If you haven't checked out FHM you should get it, it is an AWESOME magazine. For those of you who get it already, VIDA can ride in my D anytime! - Videobob VIN# 5278 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 8 Date: Tue, 09 Dec 2003 19:23:23 -0000 From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Speedometer Recalibration Has anyone here ever done a speedometer recalibration? I had called a few places that we all know to check on having my speedo recalibrated to match up with one of those cool new Indiglo dashes that DART sells, but everyone wanted what seemed to be to me a lot of money and the worst part was a 2 week wait plus shipping time! This is not good for me since my car is a daily driver. I searched the net for "speedometer recalibration" and found lots of places that do it, for about $65 or so. The main question they asked was, Q: What make is the speedo? Is it a GM? Q: Does it have a SQUARE magnet or a round one? Q: Does it use a calibration spring? If anyone knows the answers to this, or has a speedo handy that they can inspect and let me know it would help. I am just trying to find out before I pull my dash apart. The guys I am talking to ar ein Dallas, http://www.zepco.com Hopefully they can do the job and save me $300!!! - VB ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 9 Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 13:26:30 -0600 From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Holiday cards The correct size envelope cards for the holiday cards is an A7 (5.25 x 7.25) - usually can be found from a "printer's supply" company like PaperPlus, Xpedx, O-K Paper Center. One year I has some success buying some cheap xmas cards with the right size envelopes and throwing the cards away. James ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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