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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 22 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: What to do about hole in frame...
From: Daniel Hill <skaife_hrt2001@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: What to do about hole in frame...
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Headlight Conversion / Automatic Transmissions?
From: "videobob11" <videobob@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: What to do about hole in frame...
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Blinking side marker lights
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: What to do about hole in frame...
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Re: idle yet again
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
8. Re: Blinking side marker lights
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
9. RE: Re: What to do about hole in frame...
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp@xxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Re: Blinking side marker lights
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. RE: Re: idle yet again
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. HOWTO's number 12 and 13 released
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
13. Whats on the HOWTO menu
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Headlight Conversion / Automatic Transmissions?
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
15. HOWTO: Side repeater
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. HOWTO's number 12 and 13 released
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxxxx>
17. Re: Headlight Conversion / Automatic Transmissions?
From: "Video Bob" <videobob@xxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Whats on the HOWTO menu
From: Mark Valuch <dmcvin6683@xxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Headlight Conversion / Automatic Transmissions?
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman@xxxxxxxx>
20. Re: HOWTO: Side repeater
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Blinking Side Marker Lights
From: "jmpdmc7878" <jmpdmc7878@xxxxxxxxx>
22. Protection Cap Armrest Extension?
From: "videobob11" <videobob@xxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 15:32:08 +1100 (EST)
From: Daniel Hill <skaife_hrt2001@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: What to do about hole in frame...
supermattthehero <supermatty@xxxxxxx> wrote:
On my car I have a rust hole in the frame about the size of a half
dollar. It is located on the rear part of the frame, on the
underside, at the wide section beneath the passenger-side rear
suspension mount area. Any recommendations how to take care of this?
One gentleman I spoke with said this part of the frame is not load
bearing, so I should just scrape off the rust and coat it with POR-15.
He also said that its very difficult to weld the DeLorean frame
because the metal is so thin. I would like to know what the list
thinks as a second opinion.
thanks,
Matt
#1604
Dear Matt,
I would recommend that you cut the rust out, and where the hole is and then bolt a new piece of metal onto it. That should do the trick.
Joe
Sydney, Australia
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Personals
- New people, new possibilities. FREE for a limited time!
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 05:05:13 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: What to do about hole in frame...
The "standard" procedure is like on any car with a frame or unibody.
Remove the affected area and weld in a new piece of steel. You should
carefully inspect the area, rust is usually not confined to one small
specific area. If it is and the area is just the size of a half dollar
I would use a hole saw to remove it and the materiel ajacent to it so
I got back to good, full thickness steel. I would then use the hole
saw to drill out a piece of steel of the same thickness and use the
plug to weld into the frame. It is common for there to be rust in this
area so check the other side and all along the front of the frame by
the crumple zone. You could also remove the plate under the gas tank
for a more though inspection. Any loose epoxy paint indicates a
suspect area. After welding in the repair grind flush and prime and
repaint. You can sand the epoxy to feather in the repair and use
Krylon Smoke Grey which is a very good match. Inspect the are under
the master brake cylinder and the clutch master for loose epoxy paint
too. It is not difficult to weld the frame, it is only thin where the
rust made it so. It should be repaired correctly so as to keep dirt
and water out. It also gives you a chance to look inside for any other
damage. POR 15 only covers up the rot, it does nothing to restore it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "supermattthehero" <supermatty@xxxx>
wrote:
> On my car I have a rust hole in the frame about the size of a half
> dollar. It is located on the rear part of the frame, on the
> underside, at the wide section beneath the passenger-side rear
> suspension mount area. Any recommendations how to take care of this?
> One gentleman I spoke with said this part of the frame is not load
> bearing, so I should just scrape off the rust and coat it with POR-15.
> He also said that its very difficult to weld the DeLorean frame
> because the metal is so thin. I would like to know what the list
> thinks as a second opinion.
>
> thanks,
>
> Matt
> #1604
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 05:16:17 -0000
From: "videobob11" <videobob@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Headlight Conversion / Automatic Transmissions?
Thanks for the advice about the auto's.
I test drove the car today, and it seemed to shift ok.
I don't know how one is supposed to shift, it wasn't as smooth
as my Ford Taurus, but it didn't jerk or clunk.
It did seem to wind up a little, usually when you stomp on it which is
to be expected.
I forgot to try the 1st and 2nd gears by themselves though, I will do
that next time.
I did check the trans fluid, it looked a little brown and did
smell a little burnt, as burnt as hot tranny fluid from a hot
engine will smell.
What does that mean?
What should I do about it?
Can an AUTO be converted to a STICK?
One thing I noticed, the foot room.
I have BIG size 13's wearing steel toed Doc Martins.
My big snow shoes barely fit in there.
I had to stuff my left foot to the side, and turn my right
a little sideways and press the bottom tip of the gas with the
inside ball of my foot because there was barely room for my entire
shoe, as it was hitting the brake a little.
This makes me think that I could not even drive a stick because
I don't see where I am going to put my feet.
I am so tall, I had the seat all the way back, I am basically
laying down in the car like a woman getting a gyno!
I also noticed that my forarm kept hitting the damn window switch!
Am I the only one who has had this problem?
I was thinking that maybe I could move the switched over and have
the two dummies on my side. Anyone ever do that?
Well, I will find out if I can handle the stick Sunday as
I will be test driving one out of town to check it out.
It will be a 3 hour drive away just for the experience
but I think it is worth it.
I will keep you posted!
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 05:52:57 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: What to do about hole in frame...
It should be cut out and have a patch welded in. You should assume
that most of the frame is load-bearing in some way and should be
fixed properly. Bolting or riveting a patch in a structural area is
not generally an acceptable repair. Riveting can be strong if done
correctly (not pop rivets) but it just creates even more pockets to
hold moisture and rust again.
He's right, it's thin sheetmetal and the welder will have to know
what he's doing. The key is find a good welder. It's like welding
normal automotive outer body sheet. Afterwards both sides of the
weld need to be coated/painted.
Another point - I've NEVER run across a car, DeLorean or no, that has
a half-dollar-size hole rusted in it anywhere without there being a
lot more rust in other areas that you just haven't found yet. Keep
looking. Especially inside the front crossmember between the lower
control arms, the front spring towers, under the steering rack etc.
Dave S
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "supermattthehero" <supermatty@xxxx>
wrote:
> On my car I have a rust hole in the frame about the size of a half
> dollar. It is located on the rear part of the frame, on the
> underside, at the wide section beneath the passenger-side rear
> suspension mount area. Any recommendations how to take care of
this?
> One gentleman I spoke with said this part of the frame is not load
> bearing, so I should just scrape off the rust and coat it with POR-
15.
> He also said that its very difficult to weld the DeLorean frame
> because the metal is so thin.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 06:47:33 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Blinking side marker lights
Harold - I cut the ground wire for the side markers, and then
spliced the ground wire common to the light into the turn signal hot
wire for each side respectively. The remainder of the ground wire
to the car is unused. This was described by either Martin or Jan in
a post some time ago. It works due to the behavior of the relay
when it "parks" (going to ground) according to the post.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxx>
wrote:
> What modification did you do? I did one on mine but I'm not sure
it
> is the same one you did.
>
> Harold McElraft - 3354
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Toby Peterson" <tobyp@xxxx> wrote:
> > Martin / Jan / other electrical geniuses - I just did the
> > modification to Winged1 to cause the side markers to blink with
> the
> > turn signals and emergency flashers, but I am experiencing an
> > unusual problem with my car. The right hand side appears to be
> > functioning flawlessly under all conditions. However, on the
left
> > side, I experience a very slow and erratic blink when the lights
> are
> > on, and the car is off (but the key is in "on" position). When
I
> > start the engine, the system voltage goes up to 14.4 volts, and
I
> > get a fast blink on the left side, but all bulbs are good. When
I
> > load up the system at idle with lights, fans, etc., the left
blink
> > goes to very slow, and sometimes stops. I suspected a weak
> flasher
> > relay, so I picked up a generic heavy duty flasher at NAPA. The
> > fuses for turn signals and emergency flashers immmediately blew
> with
> > the new relay. I'm guessing that the Lucas relay behaves
> > differently than the generic parts in terms of "parking at
ground,
> > etc." Is there a heavy duty relay that works like the OEM Lucas
> > (only better), or do I simply need a fresh standard duty relay?
> Any
> > other ideas spring to mind? BTW - I did all four markers, and I
> > like it alot. Please advise at your earliest convenience.
Thanks!
> >
> > Toby Peterson VIN 2248
> > Winged1 - "flashier than ever"
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 03:29:34 -0500
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: What to do about hole in frame...
It's an interesting comment to say that the frame can't be welded.
Wasn't it welded when it was made? It's not pixie dust holding it
together.
I've welded my frame with an arc welder. Someone with better equipment
and more talent could do a very respectable job. Of course, the frame
epoxy will never look the same after the fix, but it could only be worse
will the rust.
Jim
1537
On Sun, 16 Nov 2003 02:46:36 -0000 "supermattthehero"
<supermatty@xxxxxxx> writes:
> On my car I have a rust hole in the frame about the size of a half
> dollar. It is located on the rear part of the frame, on the
> underside, at the wide section beneath the passenger-side rear
> suspension mount area. Any recommendations how to take care of
> this?
> One gentleman I spoke with said this part of the frame is not load
> bearing, so I should just scrape off the rust and coat it with
> POR-15.
> He also said that its very difficult to weld the DeLorean frame
> because the metal is so thin. I would like to know what the list
> thinks as a second opinion.
>
> thanks,
>
> Matt
> #1604
________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 12:09:05 EST
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: idle yet again
In a message dated 11/15/03 3:00:33 PM Central Standard Time,
doctorDHD@xxxxxxx writes:
> My car, 6530, idles irregularly and at 900 - 1200 with both the idle
> speed screw and the ECU screw out all the way. Am I screwed up?
>
> Dave and 6530
>
what is the idle speed screw? What is the ECU screw? are you referring to
the primary idle speed screw (not used since there is electronic idle control on
this car). the first screw (closest to the mixture unit) should be lightly
closed. the other two are balancing screws for the left and right banks (also
not used). you should close all three screws and then continue tuning. it
might just be the problem, since you are not allowing the idle speed motor to
fully regulate air flow at idle when the screws are open.
idle is electronically controlled and is not setable, per se. you can
increase idle speed by changing the position of the throttle stop screw, but in a
stock engine, it should be screwed down about 1/4 turn from the point where the
throttle closes by itself w/o a stop screw. the stop screw keeps it from
binding up or getting damaged. you should not be playing with this screw other
than to set it at precisely that point. when it is screwed in too far (raise
the idle), you are allowing air to get past the butterfly plates, again
bypassing the idle speed motor and not allowing it to do its job properly.
some discussion in recent weeks have pointed to a good use of the three brass
idle screws to help smooth out the idle, but do not try this until EVERYTHING
is 100% perfect. you don't want to introduce more variables while fixing a
problem!
Andy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 18:38:47 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Blinking side marker lights
Toby, I would remove, and re-seat the front turn signal bulb. In
Spring 2001 I encountered a condion where both the front and rear
lights were working, but it was blinking fast. It turned out that
the front bulb was seated such that it was the lower power filament
which was being turned on by the turn signal. The lower power draw
from this was enough to trigger the "bulb out" blink.
On a side note, I performed this blinking front marker mod last fall
and I love it. GREAT thinking for whomever first came up with the
idea.
Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Toby Peterson" <tobyp@xxxx> wrote:
> Harold - I cut the ground wire for the side markers, and then
> spliced the ground wire common to the light into the turn signal
hot
> wire for each side respectively. The remainder of the ground wire
> to the car is unused. This was described by either Martin or Jan
in
> a post some time ago. It works due to the behavior of the relay
> when it "parks" (going to ground) according to the post.
>
> Toby Peterson VIN 2248
> Winged1
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 12:43:14 -0600
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: What to do about hole in frame...
What to do about the hole in the frame ...
First, check the rest of the frame for rust or rust through. All areas near
the suspension and engine are particularly susceptible to rust. What you
find from inspection will determine what you do next.
Second, Welding to the DeLorean frame is doable. I had multiple rust
problems fixed by welding in patches. If your guy says it's a problem, find
a better welder. BTW ... inform the welder of the epoxy coating and
encourage him to weld in a well ventilated area.
Thirdly, check the archives for frame refinishing (The IM2WITTY guy should
check here as well). Multiple posting should be listed there.
One of my low days of DeLorean ownership was realizing that I had not just
one rust area but many. Even though the epoxy finish can look pretty good,
it can have rust behind.
My preference for refinishing is powder coating. First an epoxy rich primer
coat followed by the finish color coat.
Best of luck.
Nick
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 20:04:51 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Blinking side marker lights
Hi Toby
I'm not ignoring you - just don't have all my info I need to hand right
now. But then again, it sounds like you've done the mod correctly and
the problem is something I'd want to trace with my meter. However, I'd
probably start by checking the ground feed to the flasher relay
Martin
Toby Peterson wrote:
>Harold - I cut the ground wire for the side markers, and then
>spliced the ground wire common to the light into the turn signal hot
>wire for each side respectively. The remainder of the ground wire
>to the car is unused. This was described by either Martin or Jan in
>a post some time ago. It works due to the behavior of the relay
>when it "parks" (going to ground) according to the post.
>
>Toby Peterson VIN 2248
>Winged1
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 13:11:17 -0800
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: idle yet again
Dave, There is a lot of reference information on the web site.Here is the
link to the picture you need.The idle speed is adjustable.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-images/idle-speed-adj.jpg
-----Original Message-----
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx [mailto:Soma576@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, November 16, 2003 9:09 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: idle yet again
In a message dated 11/15/03 3:00:33 PM Central Standard Time,
doctorDHD@xxxxxxx writes:
> My car, 6530, idles irregularly and at 900 - 1200 with both the idle
> speed screw and the ECU screw out all the way. Am I screwed up?
>
> Dave and 6530
>
what is the idle speed screw? What is the ECU screw? are you referring to
the primary idle speed screw (not used since there is electronic idle
control on
this car). the first screw (closest to the mixture unit) should be lightly
closed. the other two are balancing screws for the left and right banks
(also
not used). you should close all three screws and then continue tuning. it
might just be the problem, since you are not allowing the idle speed motor
to
fully regulate air flow at idle when the screws are open.
idle is electronically controlled and is not setable, per se. you can
increase idle speed by changing the position of the throttle stop screw, but
in a
stock engine, it should be screwed down about 1/4 turn from the point where
the
throttle closes by itself w/o a stop screw. the stop screw keeps it from
binding up or getting damaged. you should not be playing with this screw
other
than to set it at precisely that point. when it is screwed in too far
(raise
the idle), you are allowing air to get past the butterfly plates, again
bypassing the idle speed motor and not allowing it to do its job properly.
some discussion in recent weeks have pointed to a good use of the three
brass
idle screws to help smooth out the idle, but do not try this until
EVERYTHING
is 100% perfect. you don't want to introduce more variables while fixing a
problem!
Andy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 14:07:54 -0800 (PST)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: HOWTO's number 12 and 13 released
Hello all,
#12 and #13 have been released. This deals with the
removal of the center console and the changing of the
light bulbs of the consoles climate controls.
I broke it up into 2 HOWTO's. I wasnt going to remove
the whole console but I found that four of the bulbs
were pushed out of the holder under the radio.
Removing the console was the only way to get to them.
I do however have one question.
Due to time constraints (the sun going down) i didnt
get a chance to identify where the bulbs for the LIGHT
SWITCH and Hazard button go. Are they accessed from
the back of the switch or do you pop the front of them
off to get to the bulbs to change?
Feedback is always appreciated.
Enjoy,
http://retroserver.no-ip.com/delorean/deloreanmain.html
Jordan 11613
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 14:17:57 -0800 (PST)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Whats on the HOWTO menu
Hello all,
A quick summary (tentative) of what should be going on
before the winter sets in. If you've got any good
suggestions, send em in.
1. The howto for the coolant hoses, flushing etc.
Really big, this will take me some time to get into
html. Though completed.
2. The howto for torsion bar/door adjustment
As per our Delorean meeting this weekend, ill be
bringing the car to Elvis's house, maybe this week to
do some door adjustments.
3. How to adjust ignition timing.
Yes, real easy for most folks, but a regular
maintenance procedure worth documenting.
4. How to belt replacment and tensioning
Another easy but important maintenance action.
5. Howto replace door outer seals.
Good for the winter setting in, more arts and crafts
than real dirty car work.
6. Howto Brake pad replacment, caliper maint.
Speaks for itself.
thanx,
jordan 11613
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 23:19:33 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Headlight Conversion / Automatic Transmissions?
In comparison to a Ford Taurus, I have no clue as to which one would shift
smother in a side by side comparison. But from my experience, the shifting is
pretty smooth. As fot the tranny fluid, no, it should NEVER smell burned, and it
should ALWAYS be red! DeLorean, Ford, Chevy, Dodge, or any other car, if
the fluid is that color, the transmission is going to be in for some work down
the road, and who knows how soon. Of corse this can also work in your favor,
at the bargaining table, when haggling over price.
*Technicly* you can convert any vehicle's drivetrain back and forth between
factory options. ie. Stick, auto, 2wd, 4wd, etc... but the question is, why would
you want to? It's NEVER an easy procedure as simple as swapping out pedal
boxes, and gearboxes. Quite a bit of wiring, control modules, and especially
in the case of the DeLorean, chassis mounts (shifter) have to be custom
modified/fabricated to do the job of recieving the new equipment that you're
swapping out.
If you're not sure if you want a manual or automatic transmission, that's cool.
Just take you time before you make a purchase to decide which one you
really want to buy.
The pedal box on the DeLorean is a bit tighter than you may be used to on
more common cars. I wear size 12 Lugz, and have no problem with driving a
stick. It is a bit tight, since if I don't watch what I'm doing, I can easily hit the
brake pedal with my right foot. But after a litte bit of time, you get so used to it,
you don't think about it any more. However, I do have some advice for you.
More than the closeness of the pedals, you're really going to feel the tightness
of the clutch. So I'd advise taking up walking as an exercise to strenghten your
calves if you plan on driving you car in stop-n-go traffic. Another thing would
be to install a dead pedal into the car it it doesn't already have one. That
pedal alone means the difference between comfort on a long road trip, or
irritation when running errands around town, because you're having to rest
your left foor on the ball of your heel.
Next up, if the pedals are really as uncomfortable as you said, pull the
floormat out! You'll notice a world of improvement there! Floormats are nice,
especially if you're going to constantly be entering into the car with wet/dirty
shoes. After all, you want to prevent staining of the carpet. Otherwise, DMC
did an excellent job of strategicly sewing into place rubber mats into the
factory carpet. Both where the heels of you shoes will be, and where the side
of your right foot will rub as you press the accelerator. After 52,000 miles, the
carpet is still more than intact, and the rubber shows minimal, if no wear. In
fact, it eats up the soles of my boots quicker. If all else fails, wear sneakers,
since the soles of boots will usually entend out past the hide.
Hitting the window switches can be a problem, but an easily rectified one.
Switch out the Drivers Side Window Switch with the one for the Rear
Defroster. That way, if you brush/rest your arm against the defroster switch,
the spring inside is far more resistant to the force of your arm.
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 23:41:15 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: HOWTO: Side repeater
When I was webmaster for the DeLorean Owners Club, this was on my tech
page. As I am no longer, here it is for the benefit of DMCnews
Martin
-----
How to make the front marker lights double-up as side repeaters (indicators)
[Note: Parking lights are white and are called sidelights in the UK]
The result of this modification provides the following function:
1) With headlights/sidelights OFF, the side markers flash in time with
the indicators
2) With the Headlights/sidelights ON, the marker lights light up as
normal, but when indicating, the marker lights switch OFF in sequence
with the indicators switching ON
THIS IS A VERY EASY MODIFICATION, though the job itself is much simpler
with the front fascia removed, though it can be done where the wiring
for the side markers joins the headlight loom behind the headlights
1: Take each side in turn. You should not need to remove the marker
light covers. Locate the GROUND (Black) wire to the marker light and
making sure you have a decent length of wire from the marker light, cut
this wire. This removes the ground for the marker light
2: Of the three wires feeding the indicator bulb, locate the
Green/Red wire.
3: Splice a wire from this lead and connect it to the ground wire
feeding the side marker.
4: Repeat for the opposite side and that's it!
WHY IT WORKS (the bit you can ignore if you wish). A bulb is a resistive
device and as such will work plugged in either way around.
1: When the indicator is OFF, the Positive feed to the indicator bulb
is grounded.
2: When the side marker light is OFF, the Positive feed to the marker
bulb is grounded.
3: When the side marker is OFF, and the Indicator is ON, the maker
will light up because its ground wire gets pulled to 12v through the
indicator, and its Positive feed is grounded (see 2)
4: When the side marker is ON, its ground wire is grounded through
the positive feed to the indicator (see 1).
5: When the side marker is ON, and the indicator is ON, both the
supply side and the ground side of the marker light's bulb is 12v, so it
turns off.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 01:01:40 +0100
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxxxx>
Subject: HOWTO's number 12 and 13 released
take a look on my CD, Technik then Elektrik then Lichtschalter
You have to take off the connector then you can easily take out the bulb.
Very simple ;-)
I sent you the pics this morning - 3MB. They returned saying - Email too
large - denied !
Cool, all by Modem :-(((
Elvis
Due to time constraints (the sun going down) i didnt
get a chance to identify where the bulbs for the LIGHT
SWITCH and Hazard button go. Are they accessed from
the back of the switch or do you pop the front of them
off to get to the bulbs to change?
Feedback is always appreciated.
Enjoy,
http://retroserver.no-ip.com/delorean/deloreanmain.html
Jordan 11613
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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 18:22:46 -0600
From: "Video Bob" <videobob@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Headlight Conversion / Automatic Transmissions?
Thanks for all the advice.
Well, I went to drive the stick today.
I HATED IT.
it was like wrestling an aligator.
My foot hit the clutch OK, but it seems like they pushed the brake over
towards the gas a little
and I kept hitting the brake.
Trying to push in that hard clutch, shift, and wrestle that
non-powered-wheel.... damn.
I only drove it for 10 minutes and you would think I just worked out!
It would be tough to have it as a daily driver.
Verdict: I am going for the automatic.
- Videobob
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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 19:33:27 -0600
From: Mark Valuch <dmcvin6683@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Whats on the HOWTO menu
How about a How To on removing the front fascia?
Mark
6683
On Sunday, November 16, 2003, at 04:17 PM, jordan rubin wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> A quick summary (tentative) of what should be going on
> before the winter sets in. If you've got any good
> suggestions, send em in.
>
> 1. The howto for the coolant hoses, flushing etc.
> Really big, this will take me some time to get into
> html. Though completed.
>
> 2. The howto for torsion bar/door adjustment
> As per our Delorean meeting this weekend, ill be
> bringing the car to Elvis's house, maybe this week to
> do some door adjustments.
>
> 3. How to adjust ignition timing.
> Yes, real easy for most folks, but a regular
> maintenance procedure worth documenting.
>
> 4. How to belt replacment and tensioning
> Another easy but important maintenance action.
>
> 5. Howto replace door outer seals.
> Good for the winter setting in, more arts and crafts
> than real dirty car work.
>
> 6. Howto Brake pad replacment, caliper maint.
> Speaks for itself.
>
> thanx,
>
> jordan 11613
>
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>
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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 21:31:18 -0500
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Headlight Conversion / Automatic Transmissions?
Wow...Have you ever driven a stick before Videobob?
Just curious, as I don't have any more trouble with my DeLoreans than I
do driving any other manual. It could have been one or more issues with
the particular car you tested.
-Josh
VIN 5102
VIN 15964
VIN Parts Bin
Video Bob wrote:
>Thanks for all the advice.
>Well, I went to drive the stick today.
>I HATED IT.
>it was like wrestling an aligator.
>My foot hit the clutch OK, but it seems like they pushed the brake over
>towards the gas a little
>and I kept hitting the brake.
>Trying to push in that hard clutch, shift, and wrestle that
>non-powered-wheel.... damn.
>I only drove it for 10 minutes and you would think I just worked out!
>It would be tough to have it as a daily driver.
>
>Verdict: I am going for the automatic.
>
>- Videobob
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Send a QuickGreet with MSN Messenger
>http://www.msnmessenger-download.com/tracking/cdp_games
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>
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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 04:00:19 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: HOWTO: Side repeater
I removed headlights when modifying mine. Very easy access, plus gave
me chance to replace bucket springs and adjusting bolts at same time.
Rear access of course wide open.
(Begs question: Why can't front fascia be as easy to work with as rear
fascia?)
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx> wrote:
> When I was webmaster for the DeLorean Owners Club, this was on my tech
> page. As I am no longer, here it is for the benefit of DMCnews
>
> Martin
> -----
>
> How to make the front marker lights double-up as side repeaters
(indicators)
>
> [Note: Parking lights are white and are called sidelights in the UK]
>
> The result of this modification provides the following function:
>
> 1) With headlights/sidelights OFF, the side markers flash in time with
> the indicators
>
> 2) With the Headlights/sidelights ON, the marker lights light up as
> normal, but when indicating, the marker lights switch OFF in sequence
> with the indicators switching ON
>
> THIS IS A VERY EASY MODIFICATION, though the job itself is much simpler
> with the front fascia removed, though it can be done where the wiring
> for the side markers joins the headlight loom behind the headlights
>
> 1: Take each side in turn. You should not need to remove the marker
> light covers. Locate the GROUND (Black) wire to the marker light and
> making sure you have a decent length of wire from the marker light, cut
> this wire. This removes the ground for the marker light
>
> 2: Of the three wires feeding the indicator bulb, locate the
> Green/Red wire.
>
> 3: Splice a wire from this lead and connect it to the ground wire
> feeding the side marker.
>
> 4: Repeat for the opposite side and that's it!
>
> WHY IT WORKS (the bit you can ignore if you wish). A bulb is a
resistive
> device and as such will work plugged in either way around.
>
> 1: When the indicator is OFF, the Positive feed to the indicator
bulb
> is grounded.
>
> 2: When the side marker light is OFF, the Positive feed to the
marker
> bulb is grounded.
>
> 3: When the side marker is OFF, and the Indicator is ON, the maker
> will light up because its ground wire gets pulled to 12v through the
> indicator, and its Positive feed is grounded (see 2)
>
> 4: When the side marker is ON, its ground wire is grounded through
> the positive feed to the indicator (see 1).
>
> 5: When the side marker is ON, and the indicator is ON, both the
> supply side and the ground side of the marker light's bulb is 12v,
so it
> turns off.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 03:40:19 -0000
From: "jmpdmc7878" <jmpdmc7878@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Blinking Side Marker Lights
I had a similar problem like Jim had when I did Martin's mod a few
months back. It turns out my turn signal bulb sockets were slightly
rusty inside and, after I sanded the inside a little and reseated
the bulb, it has worked fine. This might be something else for Toby
to try.
Jeff Porter
01678
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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 04:02:19 -0000
From: "videobob11" <videobob@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Protection Cap Armrest Extension?
I was reading through the "Delorean One Service and Technical
Bulletins" book, and bulletin # ST-14-9/81 shows "Service Action
SA-0005" for the placement of a "protection Cap Armrest Extension" to
be added.
This is a cool little plastic cap to cover that peice on the
side of the wall near the seat that always gets ripped from getting
in and out of the car.
Almost every single D I have seen has a tear, or at least excessive
wear in that spot.
This plastic cap is supposed to glue on that spot.
Does anyone know where I can get these?
They are not listed as a part on DMCH's website.
If anyone knows where you can get them let me know!
- Videobob
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