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There are 10 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Windshield Repair
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: The DIRT
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Delorean Frame Refurbishing
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Rear Louver Needed
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Turkey Rod Run at Daytona Beach International Speedway
From: "geek123y" <service@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: eyebrows
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
7. AW: Re: High Voltage Coils, High Octane Fuel
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxxxx>
8. MORE 'D' BLUES
From: Lance Haslewood <lanceh@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Auction for Louie's wrecked D
From: "Palatinus, Joe" <jopalatinus@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Eyebrows
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 03:58:40 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Windshield Repair
If you can catch your fingernail on it it is probably too deep to
remove. Taking that much off will create distortion in the glass when
you look through it. Look in the yellow pages under Automobile:Glass.
You should (if you are in a big city) be able to find a company that
does glass repair like chips and scratches. Have them check it out.
The other alternative is replacement (expensive) but to pass
inspection you may have to do it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, steve trimble <stevetrimble52@xxxx> wrote:
> Anyone have any ideals on removing scratches from a
> windshield. Some dope put the wrong size wiper blades
> on and I have a nice little arc scribed in the glass.
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 04:15:41 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: The DIRT
I just want to add that although I may disagree from time to time with
Bill R but you are absolutly right about his helping others. On this
past Fall Tour a member had trouble with his cooling fans. Before
anyone else even had a chance to offer to help Bill was under the car
checking the otterstadt and then fixing up the wiring inside the car.
This is just one of the many reasons to cooperate with the DML and
join a local club of Delorean owners. Even though many of the things
discussed may not apply to you NOW listen up for one day it may happen
to YOU. At the very least you will be a much more informed owner.
Keeping many of these tecnical posts in prospective just be aware that
many of the "problems" are nothing more than the less than perfect
care that previous owners had done and the "repairs" that need to be
done correctly. The other main reason for much of the "problems" is
just that many of the cars need the 20+ year old worn out parts
replaced like radiators, coolant hoses, ignition wires, spark plugs,
filters, etc. Having someone who knows what the car should look like
and run like to go over your car is the very best thing you can do.
You may not realize the correct way for something to be because you
just haven't seen many other Deloreans! BTW this is the problem for
most mechanics that profess to work on them! Getting together with
other owners to compare notes will save you tons of time AND MONEY! In
most cases in most areas of the country you will be able to find other
owners that will help. This DML is a useful substitute for that but it
can never replace it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> Sorry to hear that guy with the frame resto issue didn't get the help
zillion different fasteners, tools and a Bear engine analyzer. He
> also brought his experience and knowlege. Bill Robertson, conned his
> buddy into towing me 40 or 50 miles to Mike's place free of charge
> and shuttled me around while my car was on the operating table. He's
> also the McMaster.com stainless king. People flame Bill far too much.
> If you don't agree with how he runs his cars, that's fine but he'll
> give you a kidney if you needed it.
>
>
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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 03:01:20 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delorean Frame Refurbishing
Peter and list,
I'm sure you have already heard responses from the list about the post
regarding "un-answered" questions. The answers are already out there.
Not sure which "tool" you used to check the archives about frame work,
replacement, rebuild, refurbishing or restoration are all search options.
There are plenty of answers, with reasons, that have been posted to the
list over the years and many answers do not get posted the same day
or even within two weeks of the original post. I agree with Ken K. on the
off-list email responses, of which I have made several on this topic.
I remember sending Todd (VIN 5386) at least six off-list emails on the
pro's and con's of many frame refurbishing and re-finishing methods,
including the use of epoxy, paint, POR15, powder-coating, galvanizing and
several other techniques. I cannot find the emails I sent and then archived,
so maybe Todd can forward my emails (if he still has them). I remember
answering Todd's questions quickly because his questions were detailed
and I responded to each method in question. As with most of the questions
posted, the more detailed the question, the easier it is for a detailed answer.
And for all those who have questions about Delorean Frame Refurbishing,
you may find the answers you are looking for in the next issue of GullWing
Magazine. I'm sure there will be many Delorean owners with rusty frames
that will be saying "Finally, that's something I need and can afford to do."
This is an idea that has been in the works for a long time and now all the
pieces have come together to make it a reality.
I'm pretty sure there are no "emergency" frame questions that cannot wait
another week or two until the next issue of GullWing Magazine is in your
hands. As with all the Delorean vendors, please patronise all the Delorean
magazines, since we will all benefit from our purchases and subscriptions.
Later,
Rich W.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "IM2WITTY" <im2witty@xxxx> wrote:
> [MODERATOR NOTE: Behold, a miracle!]
>
> Hello all
>
> I made two posts concerning the restoration of a Delorean frame.
> One post was allowed by the moderators and the other post was not
> (it would be a miracle if the moderators allowed THIS message to be
> posted).
>
> snip <
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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 23:02:08 -0500
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rear Louver Needed
Oh, man...I can't begin to tell you how much it aggravates me when I hear a
story like that! What's motivates these people to do such things? It would
almost be worth parking my car in the same spot just so I could catch him.
He'd be wearing his a$$ for a hat. (Sorry, just a little wishful thinking)
Anyway, is the louver completely trashed? Most damage can be repaired with a
little TLC, fiberglass resin and sandpaper. I assume the spine is cracked
but are all the louvers damaged? Do you have all the pieces? I've repaired
two louvers that were pretty bad and they turned out just fine. I guess it's
a matter of just how bad the damage actually is. Just for the record, where
did this happen?
Rustproof
Vin 1559
----- Original Message -----
From: <jimbo0946@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2003 8:39 PM
Subject: [DML] Rear Louver Needed
> Well I am sad to say that some people just don't have respect for our
cars. I had mine parked on a side street and some @sshole decided to try
and walk over it. I came back with a foot print on my front bumper, hood,
top, and a foot through the rear louver. That son of a b!tch. Anyway, I
was wondering if anyone here has one for sale or knows of where I can find
one.
>
> Thanks,
> Jim
>
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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 14:59:58 -0000
From: "geek123y" <service@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Turkey Rod Run at Daytona Beach International Speedway
Florida DeLorean Owners-
Turkey Rod Run Car Show and Swap Meet is Thursday, November 27th
(Thanksgiving) thru Sunday, November 30th at the Daytona Beach
International Speedway.
We would like to make a big showing for Sunday since they will not
recognize us as a collectable car or muscle car. Gates open at 7am,
show cars will be stopped after 12 noon for Sunday only. Ending
time is about 3 pm. Show Car Parking on the Speedway Infield can be
accessed at the back of the track off Midway Avenue through either
Gate 70 or Gate 50 on Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday. We
can all go in together and park on the infield in a group. Over
5600 cars last year and only 2 DeLoreans that we could find.
Please let us know if you would be interested in participating.
Thanks,
Ken #2700
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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 09:58:22 EST
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: eyebrows
In a message dated 11/9/03 4:13:30 PM Central Standard Time, grex37@xxxxxxx
writes:
> Yes, about those "eyebrows"... why do some cars have them and others do
> not.
> Whats the story behind them? I never understood that.
>
> John
>From what i understand, the headlights make the bumper warm up, and
permanantly warps the fascia. It can be repaired by removing the fascia, heating it
up, and reinforcing the fascia while it is still hot. I have no experience
doing this, but that's what i have been told.
i'll find out next summer probably....
Andy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 20:12:13 +0100
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxxxx>
Subject: AW: Re: High Voltage Coils, High Octane Fuel
Bill, you'r wrong again ;-)
I will agree with you in some points, but not in the way you
try to explain it or think it is working. If you're interested
I can scan you some pictures of some books I have and that explain
the ignition system very good. With some simple physical laws
you will understand why there's never a higher voltage than about
20k volt on the ignition - as long as each part is ok.
If your coil stores more energy than the stock unit, then you may
get some advantage of it. If only the ratio between primary and secondary
winding is higher than stock - you won't gain anything.(but you will get
some nice and very high numbers on the box of the coil...that only
tell that it is the max voltage if no spark can occure...)
I see you know and understand a lot about cars, fuel and stuff, why not
try to understand the ignition, too ? that's something our car
mechanics learn at school and with the analyzer (oszilloscope) they
can tell you which part of the system has problems or not...(I learned
a lot the last days while reading this stuff)
If stock iginition is set up too weak, then I should feel a difference
by bridging one of the two resistors, right ? (for a few minutes only, there
won't be a problem with overheating or something.)
If this makes a difference, the next step would be to find out which coil
would fit our cars without damaging the ECU or something. Maybe we can get
some informations from BOSCH...because Coil may be cheap, the ECU is not.
(by the way, my filters are clean, the fluids ok, the oil will be changed
before the winter - just my steering is still shaking when braking
and nobody could tel me yet why ?!?!?!(new rotors installed!!!!!))
Elvis & 6548
....
Should be obvious by now that you and I will never agree on this
issue. Humbly suggest you not get so worked up about it. Even if
higher voltage coils had no benefit at all:
1) are my cars to configure as I wish
2) ignition coil usually costs less than any other item on engine
3) are 1001 other things you should be asking me about but never do:
condition of filters, time since last fluid changes, etc
Bill Robertson
#5939
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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 09:33:02 +1100
From: Lance Haslewood <lanceh@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: MORE 'D' BLUES
Thinking that I now have the DeLorean running well following the fuel
distributor issue, I'm faced with yet another problem. Yesterday I decided
to change the oil and coolant and noticed the odd small particle of oil in
the coolant. So I changed the oil and filter, flushed the cooling system
and refilled it with a fresh glycol mix. I also replaced the oil pressure
switch with a new one as the existing switch had been weeping oil around
its seal. Anyway, I took the car for a short drive and returned home to
bled the system and was surprised to see oil throughout the cooling
system. Not just small particles, but a complete mixture of oil and
glycol. In fact, the glycol was a grey colour and frothing in the header
bottle. When I released the bleed screw, oil and water mixture went
everywhere. I'm hoping that the problem is just a head gasket and nothing
more serious. Knowing my current run of bad luck, it will be more serious.
Lance H
Australia
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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 17:53:00 -0500
From: "Palatinus, Joe" <jopalatinus@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Auction for Louie's wrecked D
Joe P.
jopalatinus@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Hello List, I just finished one hellofa day, I went to become a Coparts
buyer so that I could bid on the wrecked Delorean (Louie G's old D) in
China Grove NC. I went and paid my 200 dollars for the right to bid,
but they neglected to file all of my information before the auction, so
when I came home to try to bid on the delorean (online) it didn't work.
I called them before the car came up, but it was too late to get the
paper work done, and that wrecked Delorean fell thorough my hands and
was sold for $2950 to some lucky bidder. I will be getting my $200
back, but no parts car for me. Did anyone on the list get it? That would
at least make me feel somewhat satisfied. Anyway, If the bidder is
online let me know if you might like to sell the hood and front fascia,
I might be interested!
Joe P.
VIN 17167 6808
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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 18:13:06 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Eyebrows
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, grex37@xxxx wrote:
>
> Yes, about those "eyebrows"... why do some cars have them and
others do not.
> Whats the story behind them? I never understood that.
>
There is quite a bit of coverage in the archives on the cause,
condition, and cure for fascia eyebrows. The technical library on
the DMCNews web site also covers correcting this malady.
I straightened my front fascia a couple years back when I repainted
it, and the procedure is simple, effective, and appears to be long-
lasting.
Knut
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