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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 14 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: stainless DMC license plate
From: Louie Golden <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Jag Shop controversey
From: "stitsien" <stitsien@xxxxxxxx>
3. Re: DeLorean 5003 now parked
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Disputing the $25,0000 rule
From: DeLorean5000@xxxxxxxxxxx
5. Re: Kayo Ong's Coil
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. RE: stainless DMC license plate
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jack@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. RE: D owners in the Charlotte NC area
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. 8 Simple Rules For Owning My Totally Cool DeLorean
From: Tom Watkins <dmctom@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Kayo Ong's Coil
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Re: Kayo Ong's Coil
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxxxx>
11. Re: Disputing the $25,0000 rule
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
12. Re: Disputing the $25,0000 rule
From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
13. wrecked VIN 10115 up for auction
From: Louie Golden <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. pie and hose questions
From: S E Ableman <s.ableman@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 19:51:18 -0800 (PST)
From: Louie Golden <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: stainless DMC license plate
The ones on ebay are very flimsy aluminum. I bought one for about $10, and only kept it on my daily driver Pontiac for a few months. It sure didn't wear well... the black DMC paint faded/wore off and it got banged up very fast.
I want to know what people think of the REAL stainless ones that DeLorean Motor Center sells.
http://www.deloreanmotorcenter.com/_a7100123_stainless_lic_plate.html They sure are proud of them, but it seems I've heard they're incredibly well made. Any opinions?
Louie Golden
VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC
_____________________________________________________________
Pre-order the updated second edition of "DeLorean: Stainless Steel Illusion" now! Details <a href="" href="http://www.stainless-steel-illusion.com">http://www.stainless-steel-illusion.com" target="_blank">here!</a>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 2003 04:36:29 -0000
From: "stitsien" <stitsien@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Jag Shop controversey
John, people have lives and sometimes cars have to be put on the back
burner. He needed the car repaired; they promised to do it via
salvaging parts from other cars. To further the issue they dawdled
and he decided to eventually take it to another shop. Hindsight is
always 20/20 and you shouldn't judge his actions because you weren't
there and just like me don't know all the facts. Further more while
on the subject lets not play the legal game as I doubt you're a
lawyer and I most certainly am not qualified to make legal decisions
or discuss strategy in the court room.
The only certainly from this is you'll never seeing my car being
worked on at the garage in question. This is not some nebulas issue
regardless of where fault lies. Someone on the DML has stated a shop
provided poor service and dealt with his concerns in an
unprofessional manor which in and of itself removes them from my list
of potential repair facilities if an issue arises and to that I
believe we're both in agreement.
Matthew Stits
0789
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, john fredt <hecklerkochgmbh@xxxx>
wrote:
> I think that it obvious from the time you allowed the car to sit at
the shop that you have/had very little intrest or concern for it.It
was wrong for the jag shop to use your vehicle as a spare parts bin
just because it was there.It is not unheard of for this to happen to
any vehicle left for long priods of time and no storage fees are
paid.Basically the facility has a lean against your car for it being
stored there so long that it was considered abandoned.I doubt that
they went through the proper legal motions to make it alright
though.There is a set amount of time before a vehicle can be
considered abandoned it is in some cases less than a month .I am sure
the jag shop has a set rate for storage of a car probably in the
range of $50.00 a day if they feel like being mean.They will argue in
court that they simply were trying to get some of what you owed them
out of the vehicle.Even if that arguement doesnt fly how will you
explain never checking on the situation until now? The judge
> will likely have no knowledge of delorean values and will see it
as just another car thus your award (if any) will be small and not
worth the trouble.Just stay away from the jag shop and warn others.
>
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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 2003 04:51:12 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean 5003 now parked
I have posted several times on things to do for storage. Among them
VERY IMPORTANT is to remove the battery and charge it once a month in
a warm place. If not stored in a heated garage make sure the
anti-freeze is good enough for any temperatures you expect over the
winter. Ditto for the windshield washer fluid. Cover the car and make
sure nothing will fall on or against it. Make sure little pests won't
get at it. Remove everything and clean it up. Lexol for cleaning and
conditioning the leather wouldn't hurt either. It does get cold in the
Catskills!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "TalksToGod" <5n-@xxxx> wrote:
> DeLorean #5003 of Ferndale/Liberty/Hurleyville, New York has just
> today been put to rest. The car is now parked where it will be
> repaired/overhauled and then stored over the winter (or longer?). I am
> wondering if there are any other things aside from-fluid drains, the
> fuel, lifting the car-that is recommended to be done (IE tortion bars
> removal) before a storage. This cars been driven non-stop for over a
> year with not much work needed, so it is about time to fix all that
> gone bad in the span of that year and drive the 66 T-Bird!(not nearly
> as great as the DeLo). Thank you all for your help and information.
> Until next year, thats it for #5003.
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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 2003 07:02:44 +0000
From: DeLorean5000@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Disputing the $25,0000 rule
Andy and spaceace3113(don't seem to know your name for some reason),
I have become very curious, as have others on this list no doubt, about what these "near perfect" cars actually look like. We could in theory talk about what constitutes a perfect car and rate our own cars until the cows come home. But words only do so much and I need to see these cars with my own eyes. Unfortunately, Ken's DeLorean Car Show in Pigeon Forge is a few months away still, so I guess pics will have to do. How about it guys, is there any reason why you both couldn't post pictures of your cars on the egroups site for us all to see? In addition, is there anybody else on this list that has seen either of the cars and can verify the condition of each? Please don't misread my posting, I am in no way flaming or trying to pick a fight here, I just want some "visual proof" for lack of a better term, and/or an unbiased opinion from a person other than the owner of the said car(s). I mean, I could also boast about the condition of my own car on this list and all the time, money, and effort put into it; but I wouldn't dare think to do so without some form of tangable proof. Again, I am in no way picking on you guys here, in fact, I am just as anal about my car as you two are; maybe even more so. I am just curious as to how the cars actually look. Thank you for your consideration in this matter.
Regards,
Darren Decker
#5000
> In a message dated 11/5/03 6:18:09 PM Central Standard Time, Soma576@xxxxxxx
> writes:
>
> > i suppose i would be below $25,000 if i only replaced parts that needed to
> > be
> > replaced, but i'd also have a car that isn't so reliable and i might fear
> > going from ND to TN next spring..... and i wouldn't take home so many
> > trophies
> > from shows!
> >
> > to do it the way i do it, i would say $35,000 is more realistic.
> >
> > Andy
>
> Actually, I got curious after i made this post and I actually ADDED UP all of
> my receipts. So far, my total is $27,660.04. this includes car purchase
> price, non-stock stereo upgrade (around $2500) as well as other goodies such as
> a
> lowered suspension and stainless enhancements. total includes shipping for
> parts (forgot to not include it until i was almost done) as well as about $1500
> total labor costs for things such as dropping and cracking open my tranny and
> recharging my A/C and performing alignments, spring installation). all other
> work i did myself. total doesn't include interest i have accrued on credit
> cards or inital car loan (will be paid off in march).
>
> I have a short list of things i still have to do on my car which includes:
> 1. fanzilla, lockzilla remotes, and new tank sender.
> 2. drop suspension and blast and powdercoat it, replace all bushings.
> 3. replace frame (getting pretty rusty and i don't have the means to do a
> frame off - i'd rather swap).
> 4. replace wheels with polished ones (mine are powdercoated and i don't like
> it)
> 5. replace steering rack and steering universals
> 6. eliminate fascia eyebrows
>
> i suspect by the time these are done i will be kissing the $35,000 range.
> will it be worth it? i think so because i have personally disassembled and
> refurbished or replaced almost every system in the car and wherever possible i
> replaced parts with better than stock parts, as well as having all the upgrades
> i
> wish to have to have a car that runs perfect, drives perfect, and looks
> perfect enough to waltz into car shows and steal the light. like i said though,
> i
> am pretty anal about EVERYTHING, and if you want just a regular driver that
> looks respectable, i'm sure $20K-$25K will do it and keep it reliable enough.
> BUT I am of the opinion that you won't be REALLY happy with it (and you'll
> always be envious) until you fork up the $35K.
>
> Andy
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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 2003 07:55:00 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Kayo Ong's Coil
OK, that corresponds with what I've always been told RE: ballast
resistors -- they are there for ignition module's benefit, not coil's.
Before electronic ignition (breaker points) were no resistors and
system ran full 12v. After electronic ignition voltage lowered to ~10v.
BTW: high performance MSD/Pertronix/Mallory modules go back to 12v.
Just dropped my Pertronix in too. Works like a charm, eh?
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, kayoong@xxxx wrote:
> Mr. Bill Robertson:
>
> Nope ... I just removed the old original Bosch coil and dropped in
the MSD
> coil, so the factory ballast resistor is not by passed.
>
> Yes, I am still using the factory ignition module, for there is no need
> change it.
>
> No, I do not know the voltage into the coil. I have not have the
need to
> measure the input voltage, for I feel I need not be concern with it.
Since it
> is only the coil I am replacing are R&R. I had consulted with the
retail
> salesman about the MSD application in the PVR motor and the coil is
a "simple"
> replacement which it was .... 20 minutes from start to finish
including removal
> of the cover. I must say, it was the simplest, easy and the
cleanest task.
>
> FYI.... I have no troubles with the ignition system. I do a
complete cap,
> rotor, spark plugs and wires changes every Spring time --
Religiously! Do
> keep in mine I do drive my DeLorean daily in the New York City
traffic and in
> the Northern New England area, in the hot and cold weather including
heavy rain
> and in the snow. My engine kicks over within two to four turns
with no
> problems at all in any temperature and weather conditions. My
DeLorean has over
> 102,000 miles and still counting with the MSD logging on over 35,000
of it.
> And yes, there is a difference in the coils performance, I can
redline the
> tach in 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear, but not the 5th. So....
>
> Kayo Ong
> #5508
> Lic 9D NY
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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 08:49:28 -0500
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jack@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: stainless DMC license plate
WRONG WRONG WRONG!! There are 2 different versions. One is a very thick
version that is indeed pretty rare. PJ Grady has one in their display and I
have one in my collection. These are different from the 20 buck ebay ones
out here that are thin plates like a license plate thickness. I used to
know the reason for the rare ones but have forgotten
Jack Stiefel
Live Internet Radio at http://www.radiocapevincent.com/
Take a trip to the historic http://www.sacketmansion.com/
____________________________________________
I've stopped 25,169 spam messages. You can too!
One month FREE spam protection at http://www.cloudmark.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: id [mailto:ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2003 6:45 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] stainless DMC license plate
They are a dime a dozen, not rare at all.
Mark
6683
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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 08:44:34 -0500
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: D owners in the Charlotte NC area
I think Bill Robertson and Louie Golden are in Charlotte. I'm in Greenville.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Eric Itzel [mailto:eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2003 2:38 PM
> To: DMCNEWS; DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] D owners in the Charlotte NC area
>
> Hey everybody
>
> I'm taking a weekend trip over to Charlotte NC this weekend in my D. Any
> owners in that area want to meet up?
>
> Contact me off list if interested.
>
> Eric Itzel
> eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> vin 4433
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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 2003 09:07:45 -0500
From: Tom Watkins <dmctom@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 8 Simple Rules For Owning My Totally Cool DeLorean
;-)
1. Pick up kids at School in DeLorean. Makes then an instant celebrity!
2. Dad, can I take the DeLorean to Prom? (insert endless
laughter..........) Dad? come on!.....Mom, tell Dad to stop!
3. When Jim Bob at the corner station fix it shop says he'll "give it a
shot" be afraid.. very afraid and get out while you can.
4. Keep a few pieces of easily picked up items in the car - Then wife
won't say "if you can keep your car so clean, why can't you do the same
around the house?"
5. Find new hiding places for parts I buy that I didn't tell wife about
6. Come up with new groveling excuses once she finds the parts I bought
and didn't tell her about
7. A DeLorean is part of a daily exercise program.....by having to park
at the farthest reaches of store parking lots to avoid door dings, I'm
getting my daily walk in!
8. Living in Maine - must remember "Boyles Law" of physics when opening
door! Doesn't go up as fast......Headbone connected to the... door bone,
Ouch!
Tom #05732
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 2003 15:04:46 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Kayo Ong's Coil
I must disagree. Ballast resistors were used regularly on cars with
ignition points. There was always a circuit through the starting
circuit that would bypass the ballast resistor so you could get full
voltage for starting but the ballast resistor was meant to reduce the
voltage once the car started to limit the wear on the points. On the
Delorean there are TWO ballast resistors. When starting one is
bypassed by the relay under them on the firewall.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx> wrote:
> OK, that corresponds with what I've always been told RE: ballast
> resistors -- they are there for ignition module's benefit, not coil's.
> Before electronic ignition (breaker points) were no resistors and
> system ran full 12v. After electronic ignition voltage lowered to ~10v.
>
>
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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 16:31:49 +0100 (MET)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Kayo Ong's Coil
Bill,
do you understand what a resistor does ? It limits the current through the
coil !
Why is this needed ? Because the ignition module may not handle much more
current.
Maybe it will, but who knows without any specs and datasheets ?
The resistor also protects the coil. Same issue - too much current for a
longer time will fry
the wonder-coil, too. The interesting thing for a coil is NOT the voltage
but the current through it !
Original resistor plus a coil with lower resistor < original
resistor+original coil. (Don't recall all
the values to give you a correct number)
Therefore there will be stored more energy in the same time. This may be
interesting for higher rpm.
But my original configuration also makes 6500rpm...
You could also use the original coil and bridge one half of the resistor -
more current - more
energy in the coil !
In the good old days of breaker and points the coils had a larger internal
resistor and therefore they reduced the current themselves. But at higher
rpm's there may have been not enough energy to make a good ignition. The dwell
had to be set to satisfy low and high speeds as good as possible.
Why don't you explain us what kind of difference you feel with the
superduper coil ?
Maybe there still is a difference at higher rpm's, but so far you just said
"it is better".
Like using premium gas instead of regular. It is better - that's what people
tell me. So
why do the car manufacturers not recommend it ? Because they can measure
exactly what
some people think they can feel ?
Give us some more details, values, and explanations based on facts and maybe
you will
convince us. But so far it was only - hey, they write on the box it is
better, therefore it
muste be better....
Regards,
Elvis & 6548
> OK, that corresponds with what I've always been told RE: ballast
> resistors -- they are there for ignition module's benefit, not coil's.
> Before electronic ignition (breaker points) were no resistors and
> system ran full 12v. After electronic ignition voltage lowered to ~10v.
>
> BTW: high performance MSD/Pertronix/Mallory modules go back to 12v.
>
> Just dropped my Pertronix in too. Works like a charm, eh?
>
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 14:03:37 EST
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Disputing the $25,0000 rule
In a message dated 11/7/03 7:22:55 AM Central Standard Time,
DeLorean5000@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> Please don't misread my posting, I am in no way flaming or trying to pick a
> fight here, I just want some "visual proof" for lack of a better term,
> and/or an unbiased opinion from a person other than the owner of the said car(s).
> I mean, I could also boast about the condition of my own car on this list
> and all the time, money, and effort put into it; but I wouldn't dare think to
> do so without some form of tangable proof. Again, I am in no way picking on
> you guys here, in fact, I am just as anal about my car as you two are; maybe
> even more so. I am just curious as to how the cars actually look. Thank you
> for your consideration in this matter.
>
> Regards,
> Darren Decker
> #5000
Darren,
for my part, i have a nice little cardomain site listed at:
<A HREF="" href="http://members.cardomain.com/soma576">http://members.cardomain.com/soma576">http://members.cardomain.com/soma576</A>
page six are my most recents pics. to qualify my involvement in this
discussion, i am not saying my car is 'perfect' - however from the beginning i have
had an obsession with everything being just right, and i feel that the current
condition of my car is representative of what you get for a $27,600
investment.... and i am still not done. remember that my frame needs replacement, i
need to straighten my eyebrows, and i still need some new steering parts (worn
but not bad yet, would rather replace them now before they get too bad). surely
there are people who will find that gem of a car for $10,000 and it only
takes $5,000 more or whatever to get it to the same level as someone who paid
$35,000. but for the vast majority of us, that opportunity will probably never be
presented.
to be truthful, is a car you are restoring which you call your baby, ever
REALLY finished???????
in my case it will cost about $35,000 to get every teeny tiny thing on my car
the way i want it. and from what i have seen at other events, i'd say that's
about right for most other owners too, but maybe they do not mind a faded
interior piece, a bad marker light gasket, or a rusty screw showing around the
headlight? I do, when it comes to MY car. is their car something to ridicule
or shrug off as 'worse'? of course not. what really matters is if you are
enjoying your car and having fun with it. but i am the kind of the person who
isn't personally satisfied with my car until it is clean, efficient, and looks
better and performs better than new. if we were all the same, how much fun
would that be?
Andy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 17:25:00 EST
From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Disputing the $25,0000 rule
In a message dated 11/7/2003 5:22:21 AM Pacific Standard Time,
DeLorean5000@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
I have become very curious, as have others on this list no doubt, about what
these "near perfect" cars actually look like
GO look at www.deloreancarshow.com and check out the photos of the car for
sale.
There are some better but this is one of the cleaner cars you will find.
There is 170 miles on it period.
It did well in the concours in Houston
So now you have a comparison
this one is $28 K for your reference.
Ken
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 14:48:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Louie Golden <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: wrecked VIN 10115 up for auction
I just wanted to let all of you guys know my totalled VIN 10115 is up for auction right now in China Grove, NC. Here are the details- the company is Copart, their website is www.copart.com . Their phone number is 704-857-5177 and my car is lot number 8821813. I JUST found out that the car is at auction right now and bids are being accepted. The live auction will take place this coming Monday morning
and will end around 1-1:30 PM Monday. The car is at $1,400.00 right now with a no-reserve auction. If you're not a registered bidder, your only option is to drive over there and pay a non-refundable $200.00 fee. I originally promised the car to the first list member who contacted me, but he had to pull out at the last minute. I'd really like to see the car go to someone in the community. It looks like right now body shops are bidding for it. If anyone's got any questions don't hesitate to contact me. Thanks!
Louie Golden
VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC
_____________________________________________________________
Pre-order the updated second edition of "DeLorean: Stainless Steel Illusion" now! Details <a href="" href="http://www.stainless-steel-illusion.com">http://www.stainless-steel-illusion.com" target="_blank">here!</a>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 2003 19:16:58 -0500
From: S E Ableman <s.ableman@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: pie and hose questions
List,
There is a pipe, part #102482 that goes from the bottom back side of
the water pump and under the intake toward the front of the car. It is
about 1 1/2 feet long. Does anybody see anything wrong with replacing
that with silicon hose all the way from the water pump to the other side
of the engine?
Also, I saw a "D" from Tenn. that had a hose from the water pump
that went in front of the A/C pulley and then around the left side of
the compressor and down to the pipe. Does anyone know what I'm talking
about, and does anyone know where I can get one?
Is there a after market replacement for the vacuum solenoid? # 101116
Thanks in advance,
Steve 1089
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