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There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. RE: Problems Starting My D
From: "Chris Boden" <cboden@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Re: KEYS PLEASE!
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. AW:Problems Starting My D
From: <klaus-peter.steiner@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Re: Problems Starting My D
From: PRC1216@xxxxxxx
5. Re: Squealing brakes, I need some help.
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. 18,000V coil upgrade
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Problems Starting My D
From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
8. DeLorean starts, but then stalls
From: "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21@xxxxxxxxx>
9. DCS Torsion Bar Adjustment
From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
10. RE: Re: KEYS PLEASE!
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. RE: Problems Starting My D
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. RE: fuel problems
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: 10115 wreck pics uploaded
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: fuel problems
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. RE: clutch safety switch?
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: 18,000V coil upgrade
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. RE: Re: Squealing brakes, I need some help.
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: fuel problems
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Problems Starting My D
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: KEYS PLEASE!
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
21. steering wheels
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
22. Re: clutch safety switch?
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. RE: Re: KEYS PLEASE!
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: Digest Number 1671
From: doctorDHD@xxxxxxx
25. Re: RIP VIN 10115
From: "Henry" <henry@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 01:24:29 -0400
From: "Chris Boden" <cboden@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Problems Starting My D
Not only that, but the starter spins a little AFTER you start the car,
and spinning it backwards won't turn the starter since it's not engaged.
The starter engages the flywheel only under starting, otherwise the gear
on the starter is completely disengaged from the flywheel and no matter
how long you push the car backwards you're not going to move the starter
armature. :)
This is why it makes that horrible noise if you try to "Start" a car
that's already running, it's the small starter gear freaking out against
the edge of the flywheel.
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Salsbury [mailto:paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Subject: Re: [DML] Problems Starting My D
Correct me if I'm wrong, but if the car starts the starter will have
turned quite a few times , so rolling it back will not get it to exactly the
same spot........
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 01:42:00 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: KEYS PLEASE!
If one does find his code or reads it off the vault door, who can cut this
key according to the code? Someone must have a machine that can translate
this code? I am a little confused. Please explain. thanks
Joe
vin 2850
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [DML] Re: KEYS PLEASE!
> You might want to call DMCH and talk to James Espey.
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 10:18:51 +0200
From: <klaus-peter.steiner@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: AW:Problems Starting My D
Patrick,
For 99% its your starter solenoid.
The next time your car will not start take a hammer, lay under the car and hit the solenoid.
If the car starts after that replace the solenoid.
Solenoid failure is a common problem on AlpineA310 cars here in Europe.
Klaus
#05980
Germany
>Message: 16
> Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 20:58:31 EDT
> From: PRC1216@xxxxxxx
>Subject: Problems Starting My D
>Hey all,
> I have a strange question for you. Yesterday I took my D out and left
>it in a parking lot for about 30 minutes. I came back out and tried to start
>the car and nothing happened. The engine didn't even try to turn over.
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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 06:14:41 EDT
From: PRC1216@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Problems Starting My D
I think it actually is the starter, now rolling it has absolutely no affect
(must have been coincidence). Popping the clutch must turn the starter
slightly, because if I give it a small push, jump in a pop the clutch, the car will
start fine. By the way, I tried the Marty McFly "bash your head into the
steering wheel" trick and it had absolutely no affect. Oh well.
Thanks for your help!
Patrick
1880
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 11:24:45 -0000
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Squealing brakes, I need some help.
My car did the same thing, the front brakes screeched like a banshee.
Turned out that I had no shims on the front brake pads. I installed
the shims and used some anti-squeal compound. My brakes were squeek
free for about 6 months, but now they squeel just a tiny bit, I guess
due to the anti-squeel compound wearing off.
Adam Price
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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 11:35:54 -0000
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 18,000V coil upgrade
I want to do the coil ugrade from Special T's website, but I have a
few questions about it.
With the 1.8 ohm resistor, is the main power relay removed/bypassed?
With the original dual resistor setup, the relay removes one resistor
during startup. Is this not necessary with the larger Voltage from
the new coil?
Thanks!
Adam Price
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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 07:43:10 EDT
From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Problems Starting My D
In a message dated 9/17/2003 9:30:47 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> Correct me if I'm wrong, but if the car starts the starter will have turned
> quite a few times , so rolling it back will not get it to exactly the same
> spot........
>
> Cheers
> Paul
> #6463
>
The starter is not engaged when it rolls back plus it is in neutral so the
engine does not turn at all.
I was looking at loose ground connections anyone have any idea of where to
look besides the braded cable near the starter.
This is definately a case of no power at all to the starter or solenoid since
it makes no noise at all.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 12:03:12 -0000
From: "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean starts, but then stalls
Hi:
I installed John Hervey's fuel pump baffle kit and pump into my car
and added gas to the tank.
I started the car and the engine cranks and fires up, then stalls out
immediately. I am trying to figure out what could be causing this
and what I should be doing next?
Thanks!
Greg
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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 08:08:20 EDT
From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: DCS Torsion Bar Adjustment
As you saw last week we had a request for torsion bar adjustments at the
Pigeon Forge Car Show similar to what we did in Memphis.
I have the fixture and the tools as does Josh so that is not a problem. Time
for me is.
Rob Grady has volunteered again to do the torsion bar adjustments at the show
so if you need it let us know about a month before the show and we will get
you scheduled. If you just show up and want it doen it will be by first come
first serve. Last time we got all the cars done.
Thanks
Ken
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 07:20:03 -0500
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: KEYS PLEASE!
IIRC the vault lock doesn't use all pins, just about half.
If so, it's not a true litmus test. But, that would be better than none.
-----Original Message-----
From: David Teitelbaum [mailto:jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Subject: [DML] Re: KEYS PLEASE!
You might want to call DMCH and talk to James Espey. He found a file
that contains SOME of the vin #'s and the corresponding key code. Even
though your key is worn a locksmith can "read" the code off the key.
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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 08:33:09 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Problems Starting My D
My bad. You are correct. I would try all the stuff except for that last
part. :) I think it would still indicate a faulty starter if rolling the car
forward eventually allowed it to start.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul Salsbury [mailto:paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
> Subject: Re: [DML] Problems Starting My D
>
> Correct me if I'm wrong, but if the car starts the starter will have
> turned quite a few times , so rolling it back will not get it to exactly the same spot........
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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 08:35:19 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: fuel problems
How old is your fuel filter?
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Podlewski [mailto:john_podlewski@xxxxxxxxx]
> Subject: [DML] fuel problems
>
> My Delorean will only start sometimes and shut off sometimes but always
> shut down when the fuel pressure is below 40 psi at the cold start valve
> prior to the fuel distributor.
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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 08:39:56 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 10115 wreck pics uploaded
Louie,
The pictures of your D says alot about its side impact resistance. It
appears to be better than some new cars.
That older cadillac has a much stronger bumper making this crash
resistance even more impressive.
I noticed that he drivers door was unlatched. Did it open after the
crash?
BOB
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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 13:43:25 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: fuel problems
Cold start valve located AFTER fuel distributor.
Does mechanic know DeLoreans? Has he jumped RPM relay to rule out
electrical problems to pump? Also need to ensure fuse #7 making good
contact, especially under road vibrations. Check grounds from
pump/inertia switch AND ignition module. Grounding points are a
DeLorean Achilles Heel (plastic car).
If engine is shutting off randomly problem most likely electrical.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, John Podlewski <john_podlewski@xxxx>
wrote:
> My Delorean will only start sometimes and shut off sometimes but
always shut down when the fuel pressure is below 40 psi at the cold
start valve prior to the fuel distributor. Suspect accumulator or
the pump both are less then 1 1/2 years old but the car did sit for
about 3 plus months without running any suggestions please help?????
Mechanic says it is a fuel problem not electric or relay problem!
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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 09:03:15 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: clutch safety switch?
2981 does not have a clutch interlock.
Which is a good thing, because I have needed to use the starter to move the
car onto a trailer. I put it in 1st gear and cranked the starter. It works
well.
Scott Mueller
002981
RNDOLA
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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 17:45:08 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 18,000V coil upgrade
Resistors for ignition module's benefit, not coil. Coil would be happy
as a clam at 12V (that's how MSD, Pertronix, etc run them). Will
slowly cook factory ECU however.
Simply install new coil where old one used to be.
At 18,000 volts don't think plug gap should be increased. Doesn't
really qualify as HEI in my opinion.
Nevertheless should notice improved performance, especially in cold
weather.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Adam 16683" <acprice1@xxxx> wrote:
> I want to do the coil ugrade from Special T's website, but I have a
> few questions about it.
>
> With the 1.8 ohm resistor, is the main power relay removed/bypassed?
>
> With the original dual resistor setup, the relay removes one resistor
> during startup. Is this not necessary with the larger Voltage from
> the new coil?
>
> Thanks!
> Adam Price
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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 13:38:48 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Squealing brakes, I need some help.
You may have really hard "lifetime" brake pads. They will squeal practically
their entire life. You could try switching to something softer.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Adam 16683 [mailto:acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx]
> Subject: [DML] Re: Squealing brakes, I need some help.
>
> My car did the same thing, the front brakes screeched like a banshee.
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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 17:50:21 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: fuel problems
When you are starting cold the accumulater isn't going to stop you. It
will only affect you when the motor is warm-hot. If the fuel pressure
goes low look at the fuel tank, baffles, pick-up hose, fuel pump, fuel
filter, inertia switch, rpm switch, wiring, etc. Make sure the fuel
pump is running when the engine is running. If it stops the engine
will stop. Pull it out of the tank and check the pick-up hose. It must
not be kinked or soft.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, John Podlewski <john_podlewski@xxxx>
wrote:
> My Delorean will only start sometimes and shut off sometimes but
always shut down when the fuel pressure is below 40 psi at the cold
start valve prior to the fuel distributor. Suspect accumulator
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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 17:51:17 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Problems Starting My D
What happens when you run a 12V wire to solenoid trigger? If that
doesn't spin either solenoid is bad, motor isn't getting juice in or
out, or brushes/windings/etc have totally failed.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>
> The starter is not engaged when it rolls back plus it is in neutral
so the engine does not turn at all.
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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 17:58:05 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: KEYS PLEASE!
If you have the code it is looked up in a book. The book will explain
the depths of the cuts. They are then done on a "code cutter". It is
not like the duplicator machines. The depths can also be read off of a
key by a reader or a micrometer and then reverse looked up to get the
code. You are correct, not every locksmith has this equipment. Many
will just talk you into "duping" the key. Not a good idea to dupe a
worn key. It is what they call a "generation" problem. It is like
making a copy of a copy. Every copy is a little less like the
origional. This is why you want to get back to using the code. Don't
forget not only is the key worn but the locks wear also so using a bad
copy of a worn key is not a great thing to do.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxx> wrote:
> If one does find his code or reads it off the vault door, who can
cut this key according to the code? Someone must have a machine that can
translate this code?
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 14:34:40 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: steering wheels
Hey List,
I am working on sprucing up my interior by replacing my seat covers and
steering wheel. Does anyone out there re-cover the steering wheel? How good of a
job can be done? Or is it easier to just replace the whole wheel?
BTW, if anyone out there is selling a like-new steering wheel (no gouges or
sun fading), i am interested.
Andy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 20:54:16 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: clutch safety switch?
Andy - One of our PNDC members had his car in the shop for some minor
engine work a few years ago. When visiting the shop to see how things
were going, the shop owner decided to start the car to show the owner
what it was sounding like. The shop owner simply leaned into the door
opening, and turned the key to start it ... without ensuring that the
transmission was in neutral. The car started instantly, and drove
through the back wall of the shop because it happened to be in gear.
Damage was not too bad to the car, and nobody was hurt. The
garage wall had a large hole in it. However, a safety switch would
have prevented that incident. Not much help in terms of your
question, but it shows why a switch might be a reasonable safety
upgrade.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> List,
>
> I am curious to know if the D is supposed to have a safety switch to
prevent
> starting the vehicle without depressing the clutch? mine doesn't
seem to have
> that feature and i have always kind of wondered if it should?
>
> Andy
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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 18:14:30 -0500
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: KEYS PLEASE!
Joe and Michael-
I have a key machine and the codes for the ignition (and the whole 1-key
cars).
The code must be between K7,001 and K9,999; the number usually ends in an X.
If there are enough two-key people needing door keys I could do them as
well, but there hasn't been interest except for one fellow. A couple more
and I'd bite the bullet and order blanks and get the codes
I require proof of ownership-- a scan of the title or something. I got silly
once and suggested the owner stand with the Sunday paper by his car for a
picture and he did. It was pretty humorous... but I don't say anything about
that anymore. He taught me to be more careful! ;) He knows who he is.
I ask for $15 by paypal if that's convenient, I provide plain vanilla blanks
to make sure we have the right codes for your car (some cars lie!).
Sometimes it takes a couple of mailings and I don't charge extra for that.
After that, if you want a replica cut (I recommend it-- the metal is much
more durable) then I'll do that for another $15 (cover's double shipping and
my taxes from DMCH).
-----Original Message-----
From: Joseph Molino [mailto:foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: KEYS PLEASE!
If one does find his code or reads it off the vault door, who can cut this
key according to the code? Someone must have a machine that can translate
this code?
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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 19:19:46 EDT
From: doctorDHD@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1671
Correct me if I am wrong but in every car I have ever owned or worked on the
starter gear is not engaged into the flywheel until power is applied to the
starter. That being the case merely "pushing the car forward" would not do
anything to help diagnose the problem as it would not turn the starter past its
"dead spot".
Message: 20
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 10:35:44 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Problems Starting My D
It sounds like you may have a dead spot in your starter.
When it happens again, try pushing the car forward a little at a time until
you find a point where it starts. If you roll it backwards and it fails to
start, you have a dead spot for sure.
Dave & 6530
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 22:11:17 -0400
From: "Henry" <henry@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: RIP VIN 10115
Louie,
First, my condolences to you for #10115. Second, I've got a question about your accident. You say your car was "broadsided". If I understand that correctly, that would mean that the Cadillac was traveling perpendicular to your car (~90 degree angle), and hit you head-on on your "broadside". But from some of your comments, and looking at the photos, it looks more like a bad sideswipe than a broadside accident. You said he crossed over the line - which would imply you were traveling in opposite directions (~180 degrees) - and from the photos it looks like his front left bumper plowed into your front left fender, and then proceeded to sideswipe the door, and then totally tear off the left rear quarter panel. I was thinking, if an '81 Cadillac really broadsided you at 60MPH, there would be much more severe damage. Think of any car going 60MPH and slamming into a brick wall (or another car). That force has to go somewhere, and if 100% of it was into your car, I feel it and you would have fared much worse! What did the Cadillac look like after the accident?
-Hank #1619
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