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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 18 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Re: Preproduction Car On eBay
From: Vin 5386 <delorean_stainless@xxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Preproduction Car On eBay--- Owner Reply
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302@xxxxxxx>
3. Door Lock Problem/Question
From: "p12c16" <p12c16@xxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: cold or hot starting?
From: Swoyerzone@xxxxxxx
5. RE: Re: Vacuum line question
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. RE: Re: Flat running
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Calipers for sale on EBAY
From: "henryparticelli" <Stockcar99h@xxxxxxx>
8. Delorean Advertising
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Flat running
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
10. Some new exhaust photos
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Torsion bar help
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Torsion bar help
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
13. DMCNews.com updated
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: cold or hot starting?
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Torsion bar help
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Flat running
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Flat running
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. UPDATE Delorean For Sale in Neosho, MO
From: "Jordan Hamilton" <DeLorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 18:59:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Vin 5386 <delorean_stainless@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Preproduction Car On eBay
My theory on ebay, No pic no conntact NO WAY! I think
if someone is serious about selling something they
would take time to take at least one picture to help
them sell the item and in the process boast bidding
and interest. Am I wrong? dont have a camera? might
want to go to ebay and buy one then hehe.
just my half a .02
inflation what can I say :P
Todd
vin 5386
--- Christopher Hawes <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
> The seller does seem to have a good Ebay history,
> but I agree 'will not post
> or email pictures' sets off the alarm bells....
>
> One easy way to remedy this is to see if there is
> anyone from central
> Connecticut willing to visit the supposed treasure
> trove of DeLorean cars
> and parts.
>
> Any volunteers??
>
> Chris Hawes in the UK
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 03:29:57 -0000
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Preproduction Car On eBay--- Owner Reply
(I am the one running that auction)
Hey,
You have No idea what you are talking about,the Pre-production was a
running car(NEVER was in ANY KIND of fire)PLEASE IF YOU DO NOT KNOW
YOUR FACTS--SHUT YOUR MOUTH, I really hate it when
misinformed ,people that know NOTHING about cars,put down other
peoples cars,they were NOT scattered about they are neatly covered
(and parked),--Remember--IT's a GARAGE---,what do you expect it to
look like a living room???? As for the Bricklin it is a Clean
car,that went thru ALL Connecticut MVD inspections/tests before they
let me get a registeration.This is a person that I refused to SELL
parts to,as he looked to shady!!(See a pic of one of my bricklins at
www.bricklin.org ,under members cars(vin #1024)
All parts are stored in Bins/ boxes/or shelves,What he saw as "junk
parts" were, well, damaged JUNK parts,that came off Two of my parts
cars,(one a "fire" car) that I had not disposed of at the time.
I have been on this list since 1997,and a Delorean person since day
one of the Delorean Saga.
Hey,there are a LOT of PEOPLE on this List,Including VENDORS that
bought my parts in the past thru ebay,and all I got was phrase,and
excellent feedback.All parts I sell are excellent or better.
Granted,I WAS/am doing ground up restorations on these cars,(as
stated)and he saw them being worked on,I have yet to see a car in the
process of a ground up restoration, that looks like a showcar....
>From the "few minutes" he was there I got the impression,he was only
looking to part these cars,(as you CAN TELL IN HIS POST)and CARED
NOTHING about Deloreans,You know the type ,except to part them,and
make a fast easy profit,(a bottom fisher), you know the type of
person I am talking about,sees a flat tire on a car and calls it a
junker!!
I most assure that these cars are VERY worth it,as these are stored
cars(indoors)(never stored outdoors) even my parts cars were stored
indoors, that have No Sun Damage(how do you get sun damage on cars
that see no sun)No Torn/worn seats ect ect,As for the Orignal
tires/wheels,they are AS NEW,with (0)cracks or damage,and as plyable
as when new,as the tyres/wheels,are stored verticle,in a cool dry
loft,that sees NO sunlight of ANY kind.I gave one tyre to a fellow
member on this list,and was VERY happy with it.
Any "parts" I have that I sell or selling,are as safe as any new
part,as I have NO high mileage parts/sun damaged/weather damaged
parts.
There is simply to much stuff in too many locations to take pics,The
MOST serious of person WOULD want to SEE in person,if I was a
interested bidder, I would only bid,AFTER I saw for myself,this is
NOT the type of auction to bid on, BASED on a "FEW PICTURES". I Do
not want to post pics,of "My stuff" for ALL to see,I am only
interested in only showing to the most Serious,and to prove that,they
can come in person to see what they are bidding on.
If you read my last post,you WILL know that I only deal with/restore
for the long term realibity,as the car I restored in my last post,was
restored in 1987,and is STILL being driven Today(SIXTEEN YEARS AGO !!,
(it's now in the U.K.)I will not release that vin number,as that
person is on this list,but if he wants to comment on my work on that
car,He has my blessing,as I have nothing to hide.My point in all this
is that one persons B.S. is just that B.S.That is why I will only
deal with a person face to face,(when its for bigger bucks)And am
100% positive that any serious bidder would want the same. So that
they can,see, feel, touch,what they are getting,and spend the time,to
check things out. As a Long term DML Member,
I most assure the Deal is a TRUE and Honest Deal.
Best Regards
Claude
00570
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxx> wrote:
> I went to see this place of his about 3 years ago. It looks like
an old
> mechanics garage. There are deloreans scattered about but they are
all
> taken apart. There is not ONE that was whole.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 03:02:54 -0000
From: "p12c16" <p12c16@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Door Lock Problem/Question
I hope I can explain this clearly. When I am sitting in my D, either driver or
passenger seat and decide to lock the doors, I have a problem. The door lock
button I push goes down fine and locks, but the lock on the other door only
moves about halfway, NOT locking. The same goes if I am locking the car on
the outside. However when I manually lock both doors individually and push
the unlock button on one door, the other one unlocks at the same time. My
question: What do you think causes this, and would LockZilla fix it? I plan on
buying LockZilla anyway, and I am wondering if this will kill two birds with one
stone.
Thanks!
Patrick
1880
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 01:50:21 EDT
From: Swoyerzone@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: cold or hot starting?
What is the temp I should have it at (I have very very little mechanical
skills, but how would I lower the temp?) I took the car to work today and its a
six min drive the car was riding just at 220, and then sat for about four hours
I came out and it wouldn't start. when I push down on the plunger I don't add
anything but it seems to start, not always very well but seems to speed up the
process.
Darryl
5898
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 08:44:48 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Vacuum line question
Mark, To answer your question, they are supposed to have it.Some have been
eliminated and the vacuum pluged up.
John Hervey
here is what it looks like.
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-images/heater-control-valve-new.jpg
-----Original Message-----
From: id [mailto:ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2003 8:23 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Vacuum line question
On the back of the engine behind the right head if you are looking at the
back of the
car. It is on the opposite side of the Distributor near the coil box but
closer to the
bell housing for the transmission.
I am told not all Deloreans has this shut of valve.
Mark
michael townsley wrote:
> Where is the heater core shut off valve?
>
> Michael W. Townsley
> # 17043
> townfour@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2003 10:17 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Re: Vacuum line question
>
> Mechanic hooked up wrong. He's running vacuum backwards through mode
> switch.
>
> Line operates heater core shut off valve. Is only active in Max A/C
> mode. Runs from passenger intake rail (one device of many on big 3/8"
> line), through mode switch, under console in hard plastic line, out
> driver's pontoon, to heater core shut off valve.
>
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
>
> >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "aaron_t_graham"
> <aaron_t_graham@xxxx> wrote:
> > There's a lone vacuum line that comes into the engine from the side of
> > the engine compartment -- toward the back, on the left side. It's
> > quite lonely back in that part of the engine compartment, so it's easy
> > to see which line I'm talking about.
> >
> > If I have this line disconnected, everything still seems to work just
> > fine.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 09:06:28 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Flat running
See below.
-----Original Message-----
From: cruznmd [mailto:racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2003 8:55 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: Flat running
I agree that the WOT wouldn't be the sole cause of this.( Are you talking
about the WOT switch.)
I put the timing light on the engine and the timing advanced as I
revved it up. It appeared to be in spec with what the manual required.
The advance solenoid clicks when I open & close the idle microswitch
but that doesn't necessarily mean it's working does it?
( Normally yes unless the diaphragm is broken.)
Vacuum lines are routed in accordance with the diagram in the engine
cover.( ok )
Initially, the car idled roughly and would hard start cold and I'd
have to feather the gas to keep it running. It appears that the cause
of this was incorrectly set CO screw.
( If the screw isn't set correctly the control plunger in the distributor
isn't high enough to feed the injectors.This adjustment is critical, the
plunger in the rest position has shut off fuel to the injefctors, then when
you start to crank the small amount of air sucks down the metering plate
which makes the plunger rise, thus you feed the injectors. )
I started richen the mixture,( ok )
and keep the idle sane by adjusting the throttle linkage (which was
on an extreme end anyway by P.O.) and re-setting the timing. ( ok, but what
happened to the micro switch settings if you re adjusted the throttle body
lever)
Now it starts and idles like a dream from stone cold. It has more
power, but still not enough. I feel I have a little more play with
the fuel mixture but when I reach the point of diminishing returns
I'll have to put a pressure gauge on the system and check control
pressure.
( Rich, It starts now because you have adjusted the control plunger to rise
high enough manually, but it may be out of adjustment as the engine would
normally run. In other words the plunger may not be rising high enough or to
much now to give the correct amount of fuel. Thus, slow or sluggish or not
enough power. Keep in mind all this adjusting has to be done when the engine
is hot.
John Hervey
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxx>
wrote:
> The WOT on has a minimal impact so I doubt if that is not your
> problem. Does it start and idle OK? If so, I would suspect failure
> in the vacuum advance system somewhere, the throttle plate is
> sticking or, the idle motor switch that operates the vacuum advance
> solenoid in unison with the idle motor is stuck too, like your WOT
> micro switch. Are the vacuum hoses routed properly? Double check
> this too. Timing light is a tool that can tell you if the advance
is
> operating.
>
> Harold McElraft - 3354
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> > My suspects are: timing advance failure, combined with the
absence
> of
> > the WOT microswitch, and/or maybe some smaller vac leaks. Any
> > additional suspects are welcome.
> >
> > Rich
> > #5335
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 14:50:13 -0000
From: "henryparticelli" <Stockcar99h@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Calipers for sale on EBAY
I have a pair of front Calipers for sale CHEAP on ebay.
These are (Remanufactured) NEW in the box.
Item number: 2428078250
Item number: 2428078369
Also Have the following.
Pair of brand new Disc Brake Hardware kits for the following car.
Delorean 81-82 If you are not sure about application check with
dealer or parts store. PART NUMBER H15621
EBAY Item number: 2428085807
Auctions end Aug 21st!
Good Luck
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 15:12:31 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean Advertising
I just noticed on the cover of the September Hemmings Motor News they
have a Delorean! They showcased it and mentioned that it and many
others can be found inside along with a 1933 Auburn and a 70 Buick.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 17:21:34 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Flat running
More than few DeLoreans have messed up the fuel system adjustments by
turning the fuel mixture screw in order to compensate for some other
problem in the fuel system. I mention this because the mixture can
only be set properly when you know ALL fuel system components are
functioning correctly. It was sealed originally to prevent tampering
and was set with everything working correctly. So, correct adjustment
is critical to proper overall performance. Spark, etc. has to be in
good order too and no vacuum leaks.
There is a dwell meter, voltage process set out in the operating
manual that can get the fuel system adjustment very close if not
right-on without using the CO taps. A critical piece in the fuel
regulation is the pressure regulator mounted on the valve cover. You
MUST know if that is working correctly. About the only way to know is
with fuel pressure gauges, or just put a new one. The Lambda is a
fuel enrichment machine that must also be functioning correctly for
adequate engine performance. That can be checked fairly thoroughly
without special tools by just listening to hear if the frequency
valve is buzzing. If it isn't you need to find out why not.
If the engine was stumbling when cold but fine when hot then the cold
engine enrichment cycle is messed up. Either the pressure regulator
or some other component. Not the fuel adjustment. A DeLorean with a
proper functioning fuel system does not hesitate or stumble, ever.
I would start by methodically checking all major pieces for proper
function and see if you can get the fuel system adjusted - engine
hot - with the dwell meter process; then check the other stuff.
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> I agree that the WOT wouldn't be the sole cause of this.
> I put the timing light on the engine and the timing advanced as I
> revved it up. It appeared to be in spec with what the manual
required.
> The advance solenoid clicks when I open & close the idle
microswitch
> but that doesn't necessarily mean it's working does it?
>
> Vacuum lines are routed in accordance with the diagram in the
engine
> cover.
>
> Initially, the car idled roughly and would hard start cold and I'd
> have to feather the gas to keep it running. It appears that the
cause
> of this was incorrectly set CO screw. I started richen the mixture,
> and keep the idle sane by adjusting the throttle linkage (which was
> on an extreme end anyway by P.O.) and re-setting the timing.
>
> Now it starts and idles like a dream from stone cold. It has more
> power, but still not enough. I feel I have a little more play with
> the fuel mixture but when I reach the point of diminishing returns
> I'll have to put a pressure gauge on the system and check control
> pressure.
>
> Rich
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxx>
> wrote:
> > The WOT on has a minimal impact so I doubt if that is not your
> > problem. Does it start and idle OK? If so, I would suspect
failure
> > in the vacuum advance system somewhere, the throttle plate is
> > sticking or, the idle motor switch that operates the vacuum
advance
> > solenoid in unison with the idle motor is stuck too, like your
WOT
> > micro switch. Are the vacuum hoses routed properly? Double check
> > this too. Timing light is a tool that can tell you if the advance
> is
> > operating.
> >
> > Harold McElraft - 3354
> >
> >
> > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> > > My suspects are: timing advance failure, combined with the
> absence
> > of
> > > the WOT microswitch, and/or maybe some smaller vac leaks. Any
> > > additional suspects are welcome.
> > >
> > > Rich
> > > #5335
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 14:28:44 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Some new exhaust photos
http://tg2.vantagep.com/engine/exhaust.php?page=20
Starting on pic 20, you can see the fitting of the new gaskets and the
reassembly of the crossover pipe.
I just got my new all aluminum heat shield in today. It is the final piece
of the puzzle.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 21:20:23 +0100
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Torsion bar help
Ok so I want to attempt to adjust my passenger side torsion bar, but I have a small issue.
The splined plate won't budge off the end!!! it looks like a previous attempt has splayed the end of the torsion bar slightly :-(
Any ideas for getting it off??
I am seriously considering removing the T-panel and the rear screen, so I can relax the bar with the bracket still on then do whatever I need to off the car.
Comments please
Paul
#6463
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 22:06:22 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Torsion bar help
That happens a lot. It means someone before you adjusted the door
with the allen bit not seated all the way into the torsion bar,
causing the head of the bar to expand.
NOTE - THE FOLLOWING IS NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART. SCREWING UP WILL
COST YOU A BACK GLASS AND/OR T-ROOF. BEST TO FIND SOMEONE WITH
EXPERIENCE. DON'T SAY I DIDN'T WARN YOU. YOUR MILEAGE MAY
VARY.......With that caution. . . .
With the door open, the remaining twist in the bar is approximately
90 degrees. You can see that a 90-degree twist in the clamp from
normal puts the ends squarely thru the roof panel and the back
window.
To remove the clamp:
Make sure that the allen bit is all the way seated in the bar - I
prefer to hit the tool with a hammer when starting. Have someone hold
tension on the torsion bar with the fixture while you remove the two
clamp screws. Then pry on the clamp away from the body with two
screwdrivers (actually I prefer using the tool used for removing door
panels aka fir tree remover).
If you are lucky, you'll be able to work the clamp off the bar this
way. If it's really bad, "plan B" is what you have outlined, i.e.
remove the t-panel and the glass. I once asked Steger what HE did in
this situation, his answer was "cut the bar". In mechanic-hours this
was probably cheaper than removing the glass. (Back when there were
extras.)
Anyway - once you get the clamp off, remove the bar from the car
(twist it the opposite direction until it releases from the front
hinge - you'll feel a significant "snap" when this occurs).
To "unmushroom" the torsion bar, tap the clamp back on with a small
hammer, hitting the clamp alternately at either end. Remove it, rotate
90 degrees on the bar, and do it again. You'll probably have to do
this several times, but it will compress the head back down. A liberal
coating of anti-sieze compound on the splines helps here.
Good luck, and BE CAREFUL.
Dave Swingle
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxx>
wrote:
> Ok so I want to attempt to adjust my passenger side torsion bar,
but I have a small issue.
>
> The splined plate won't budge off the end!!! it looks like a
previous attempt has splayed the end of the torsion bar slightly :-(
>
> Any ideas for getting it off??
>
> I am seriously considering removing the T-panel and the rear
screen, so I can relax the bar with the bracket still on then do
whatever I need to off the car.
>
> Comments please
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 22:56:34 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DMCNews.com updated
Just kind of a heads up that I've made some major updates to the
site. I finally caught up on about a year-an-a-half's worth of MyDMC,
Pic of the Month, etc. as well as tech articles and event coverage,
including Houston, Northern Illinois, and something special that
you'll have wait just a bit more to see.
Check it out at www.dmcnews.com
Dave Swingle <-lots of spare time on vacation last week
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 23:18:46 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: cold or hot starting?
A properly adjusted vehicle usually runs near that second tick mark.
The one in between 100 and 220. Of course when you're stuck in traffic
in the summer time with your A/C on it will shoot up and then the fans
will kick on. I guess the goal here is to run no hotter than mid-way
between that mark, and the 220 mark.
Ok:
1. DO your fans turn on? I don't recall if you said so before.
2. There are several causes for hot running. Many are very simple
fixes that even non-mechanical folks can do.
a) Stuck thermostat (pull the water pump cap off and replace it)
b) Air bubble in the cooling system (Loosen up the bleed screw on
the water pump cap and see if air burps out, use a cup to catch the fluid)
c) Air bubble trapped at the "high point" in the radiator. (Small
hose at upper corner, passenger side. Undo the hose clamp and wiggle
it loose. If air comes out, let it breathe until fluid comes out)
d) Failed otterstat. This happened to me. (Otterstat is the thermal
activated switch for the fans. It's in the driver's side cooling pipe
in the engine compartment. $20.00 part)
Also, if the engine is out of tune, it'll work harder to perform the
same, generating extra heat. I also just went through this. For that,
you have to check the timing and fuel delivery. These are a little
more advanced. :)
Check 1, and 2b and 2c first. They are "free" fixes. No parts
required. Then start looking at 2a and 2d.
Let us know what happens.
Rich
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Swoyerzone@xxxx wrote:
> What is the temp I should have it at (I have very very little
mechanical
> skills, but how would I lower the temp?) I took the car to work
today and its a
> six min drive the car was riding just at 220, and then sat for about
four hours
> I came out and it wouldn't start. when I push down on the plunger I
don't add
> anything but it seems to start, not always very well but seems to
speed up the
> process.
>
>
> Darryl
> 5898
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 23:22:50 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Torsion bar help
Dave Swingle has said it all but I would like to add some personal
comments. The area you have to work in to remove the anchor bracket is
VERY close to the edge of the S/S "T" panel. With the plastic valence
removed the edge of the S/S is exposed and is VERY SHARP. You can cut
yourself badly and not even notice it until you see red juice all over
everything! If the end has expanded a lot it may even be cracked in
which case the allen wrench may not be able to hold it and it can let
go without warning. This is the real reason many times the torsion bar
was cut figuring it was trash anyway. If you do manage to get it apart
you "may" be able to salvage it (if it isn't cracked) by very careful
filing of the splines (onlu on the torsion bar NEVER the bracket).
Take your time here and you may be lucky. Another problem area is
sometimes the threads on the 2 small bolts is crossed and you might
have to retap them and replace the bolts. When things go well almost
anyone can do this. When things go not so well you really need an
experienced hand, in the middle of this process it may be impossible
to stop without losing the rear window. Don't think you can do this
alone. Have at least 1 helper, preferable 2 (an extra to dial 911 or
fetch things) and use a long pipe on the breaker bar so your assistant
can hold the torque on the torsion bar for long periods of time while
you try to "walk" the anchor bracket off. This is one of the more
dangerous procedures to do on a Delorean so it IS best to have someone
who has done this before. If you do have to sacrifice the torsion bar
at least it is the passenger one which is available and not too expensive.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxx> wrote:
> That happens a lot. It means someone before you adjusted the door
> with the allen bit not seated all the way into the torsion bar,
> causing the head of the bar to expand.
>
> NOTE - THE FOLLOWING IS NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART. SCREWING UP WILL
> COST YOU A BACK GLASS AND/OR T-ROOF. BEST TO FIND SOMEONE WITH
> EXPERIENCE. DON'T SAY I DIDN'T WARN YOU. YOUR MILEAGE MAY
> VARY.......With that caution. . . .
>
> With the door open, the remaining twist in the bar is approximately
> 90 degrees. You can see that a 90-degree twist in the clamp from
> normal puts the ends squarely thru the roof panel and the back
> window.
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 23:25:56 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Flat running
Hi John,
All good questions. I'll address them. :)
1. WOT= Yes, the WOT switch.
2. When I adjust the throttle linkage, I also adjust the screw that
activates the idle microswitch. I've actually adjusted the throttle
linkage to totally close the throttle plates. The only place that
baby's pulling air now at idle, is the idle regulator (I may yet have
a minor vacuum leak or two). I make sure the idle regulator goes on
line when the throttle is at rest. Well, you know what I mean.
3. I do wait for the engine to warm up before performing any
adjustments. :)
Thanks again,
Rich
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "John Hervey" <john@xxxx> wrote:
> See below.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: cruznmd [mailto:racuti1@d...]
> Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2003 8:55 AM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Re: Flat running
>
>
> I agree that the WOT wouldn't be the sole cause of this.( Are you
talking
> about the WOT switch.)
> I put the timing light on the engine and the timing advanced as I
> revved it up. It appeared to be in spec with what the manual required.
> The advance solenoid clicks when I open & close the idle microswitch
> but that doesn't necessarily mean it's working does it?
> ( Normally yes unless the diaphragm is broken.)
>
> Vacuum lines are routed in accordance with the diagram in the engine
> cover.( ok )
>
> Initially, the car idled roughly and would hard start cold and I'd
> have to feather the gas to keep it running. It appears that the cause
> of this was incorrectly set CO screw.
> ( If the screw isn't set correctly the control plunger in the
distributor
> isn't high enough to feed the injectors.This adjustment is critical, the
> plunger in the rest position has shut off fuel to the injefctors,
then when
> you start to crank the small amount of air sucks down the metering plate
> which makes the plunger rise, thus you feed the injectors. )
> I started richen the mixture,( ok )
> and keep the idle sane by adjusting the throttle linkage (which was
> on an extreme end anyway by P.O.) and re-setting the timing. ( ok,
but what
> happened to the micro switch settings if you re adjusted the
throttle body
> lever)
>
> Now it starts and idles like a dream from stone cold. It has more
> power, but still not enough. I feel I have a little more play with
> the fuel mixture but when I reach the point of diminishing returns
> I'll have to put a pressure gauge on the system and check control
> pressure.
> ( Rich, It starts now because you have adjusted the control plunger
to rise
> high enough manually, but it may be out of adjustment as the engine
would
> normally run. In other words the plunger may not be rising high
enough or to
> much now to give the correct amount of fuel. Thus, slow or sluggish
or not
> enough power. Keep in mind all this adjusting has to be done when
the engine
> is hot.
> John Hervey
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxx>
> wrote:
> > The WOT on has a minimal impact so I doubt if that is not your
> > problem. Does it start and idle OK? If so, I would suspect failure
> > in the vacuum advance system somewhere, the throttle plate is
> > sticking or, the idle motor switch that operates the vacuum advance
> > solenoid in unison with the idle motor is stuck too, like your WOT
> > micro switch. Are the vacuum hoses routed properly? Double check
> > this too. Timing light is a tool that can tell you if the advance
> is
> > operating.
> >
> > Harold McElraft - 3354
> >
> >
> > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> > > My suspects are: timing advance failure, combined with the
> absence
> > of
> > > the WOT microswitch, and/or maybe some smaller vac leaks. Any
> > > additional suspects are welcome.
> > >
> > > Rich
> > > #5335
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 23:30:58 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Flat running
My control pressure regulator -is- brand-new.
My freq valve is buzzing away happily.
Unfortunately, the fuel injection manual I have points to the control
pressure regulator for several of the symptoms I have.
So, even though it's new, I want to put a fuel pressure gauge on it.
I have greatly increased the power through the adjustments I've made
so far, and it doesn't stumble or hesitate any more at all, hot or
cold, but that doesn't mean I'm doing it right.
Like you say, I probably won't really know until I put the gauge on it.
Rich
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxx> wrote:
> More than few DeLoreans have messed up the fuel system adjustments by
> turning the fuel mixture screw in order to compensate for some other
> problem in the fuel system. I mention this because the mixture can
> only be set properly when you know ALL fuel system components are
> functioning correctly. It was sealed originally to prevent tampering
> and was set with everything working correctly. So, correct adjustment
> is critical to proper overall performance. Spark, etc. has to be in
> good order too and no vacuum leaks.
>
> There is a dwell meter, voltage process set out in the operating
> manual that can get the fuel system adjustment very close if not
> right-on without using the CO taps. A critical piece in the fuel
> regulation is the pressure regulator mounted on the valve cover. You
> MUST know if that is working correctly. About the only way to know is
> with fuel pressure gauges, or just put a new one. The Lambda is a
> fuel enrichment machine that must also be functioning correctly for
> adequate engine performance. That can be checked fairly thoroughly
> without special tools by just listening to hear if the frequency
> valve is buzzing. If it isn't you need to find out why not.
>
> If the engine was stumbling when cold but fine when hot then the cold
> engine enrichment cycle is messed up. Either the pressure regulator
> or some other component. Not the fuel adjustment. A DeLorean with a
> proper functioning fuel system does not hesitate or stumble, ever.
>
> I would start by methodically checking all major pieces for proper
> function and see if you can get the fuel system adjusted - engine
> hot - with the dwell meter process; then check the other stuff.
>
> Harold McElraft - 3354
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> > I agree that the WOT wouldn't be the sole cause of this.
> > I put the timing light on the engine and the timing advanced as I
> > revved it up. It appeared to be in spec with what the manual
> required.
> > The advance solenoid clicks when I open & close the idle
> microswitch
> > but that doesn't necessarily mean it's working does it?
> >
> > Vacuum lines are routed in accordance with the diagram in the
> engine
> > cover.
> >
> > Initially, the car idled roughly and would hard start cold and I'd
> > have to feather the gas to keep it running. It appears that the
> cause
> > of this was incorrectly set CO screw. I started richen the mixture,
> > and keep the idle sane by adjusting the throttle linkage (which was
> > on an extreme end anyway by P.O.) and re-setting the timing.
> >
> > Now it starts and idles like a dream from stone cold. It has more
> > power, but still not enough. I feel I have a little more play with
> > the fuel mixture but when I reach the point of diminishing returns
> > I'll have to put a pressure gauge on the system and check control
> > pressure.
> >
> > Rich
> >
> > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxx>
> > wrote:
> > > The WOT on has a minimal impact so I doubt if that is not your
> > > problem. Does it start and idle OK? If so, I would suspect
> failure
> > > in the vacuum advance system somewhere, the throttle plate is
> > > sticking or, the idle motor switch that operates the vacuum
> advance
> > > solenoid in unison with the idle motor is stuck too, like your
> WOT
> > > micro switch. Are the vacuum hoses routed properly? Double check
> > > this too. Timing light is a tool that can tell you if the advance
> > is
> > > operating.
> > >
> > > Harold McElraft - 3354
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> > > > My suspects are: timing advance failure, combined with the
> > absence
> > > of
> > > > the WOT microswitch, and/or maybe some smaller vac leaks. Any
> > > > additional suspects are welcome.
> > > >
> > > > Rich
> > > > #5335
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 19:14:25 -0500
From: "Jordan Hamilton" <DeLorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: UPDATE Delorean For Sale in Neosho, MO
I have had such an huge response from persons about intrest in the 81 delorean that I spotted for sale I thought the best way to get the additonal info out that I found out was to post here again. I called the number on the car today and I got the owners son, who is selling the car for his father. I was told by him that instead of 30,000 miles on it it actully has less than 3,000, I read the sign wrong. I believe it was more like 2,600. He said that his father bought it 2 years ago and has only put 22 miles on it since he bought it, it has been in storage ever since. He did not know much about the mechanical condition it was in, but it does run and drive and looks great from a distance, he did not have time today to show me the car up close. He did not have the VIN with him either. He is suppose to have his father give me a call with more details. He did say that he was told by his father that this 81 was a model that was originally owned by the actual DMC that they used for auto shows, etc. It is a 5 speed with grey interior. As soon as I get more info from his father I will let everyone know. He is asking 16,000 for it, which seems like a GREAT price for a orignal with less than 3,000 miles. If you have any more questions ask me at delorean(at)gbronline.com.
Thanks
Jordan
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