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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Idle speed regulator removal
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
2. DeLorean problems
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Brass Idle Speed Screws
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Auxillary Air Pipe(s)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Transmission conversion AT/MT
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. door lights
From: "Joe B" <jsjb100@xxxxxxxxx>
7. RE: Brass Idle Speed Screws
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Dead DeLo
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Manual Idle vs Automatic Idle
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Dead DeLo
From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx
11. Ripping out automatic idle speed circuit
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: door lights
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: door lights
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Radiatior.
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Marylanders at SEDOC
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. RE: Re: Dead DeLo
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. RE: Re: Replacement MSD Coil
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: A small favor...
From: Josh Keady <joshkeady@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Just changed to SS Clutch line, better, but REVERSE and 1st gear STILL won't go!
From: "steve" <steve@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. pictures of wheels
From: Warren Turkal <wturkal@xxxxxxx>
21. Re: Dead DeLo
From: ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx
22. Re: Re: Idle speed regulator removal
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
23. Re: Re: Brass Idle Speed Screws
From: Louie Golden <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: Re: door lights
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
25. Re: Living in the Bermuda Triangle
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 23:42:21 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Idle speed regulator removal
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxx>
wrote:
> Hello all:
>
> Quick question:
>
> When working with the back driver side plugs and fuel
> injectors, it seems almost necessary to get the idle
> speed regulator out of the way. I imagine it could be
> removed by removing the round clamp, dosconnecting the
> two hoses and the electrical connector.
<SNIP>
Removing the Idle Speed Motor, or regulator is you're a stickler for absolute
proper terms (you'll find that different slang names for components is quite
common) does indeed make things ALLOT easier when you're attempting to
work on the the Fuel Injecctors, and Spark Plugs back in that area. And
removing/reinstalling the unit really isn't that difficult at all. Working when the
engine compartment is warm (NOT hot) will greatly aid you, as the rubber
tubes will be more flexable. And of course, wiggling the connections to make
the rubble more plyable always helps.
1. Disconnect the electrical plug, and loosen all associated hose clamps.
2. Remove the screws that are securing the bracket to the intake manifold
(you'll need a hex head attachmet, like an allen wrench, to remove them).
3. Slide the rubber hose connecting the Regulator, and the Cold Start Tube as
far back onto the Regulator as you possibly can.
4. Firmly hold the Regulator in one hand, and slowly pull the Cold Start Tube
twards you. You won't have to move it very much, just enough so that you can
seperate the rubber hose from the tube by pulling up a bit on the regulator.
5. Firmly hold the Auxillary Tube (the pipe that connects to the intake
manifold), and pull the Regulator motor away from it. To make things easier,
and to avoid accidently pulling the Auxillary Tube out, leave the elbow hose
connected to the tube when disconnecting the motor.
Installation is the exact reverse. I've done this many times over on my car, and
it still maintains a steady idle. Moving the Cold Start and Auxilary tubes
around isn't really that much of a concern, as long as you try to keep the
movements to a minimum.
<SNIP>
> is there anyspecial consideration
> about dirt getting in this unit or the cold start
> valve for that matter.
<SNIP>
Nothing any different than you would do when pulling Spark Plugs out. Just
try to work as clean as possible.
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 19:35:08 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean problems
After reading all the new problems owners are having brings one thing to mind. When I first got my car I made a purchase of the DeLorean Service Bulletins from PJ Grady. This book covers a vast amount of upgrades and changes to our cars that is not covered in the repair manuals. A worthwhile purchase.
Dave Sontos
vin 02573
Poquoson, VA
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 00:06:20 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Brass Idle Speed Screws
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Louie Golden <louie@xxxx> wrote:
> What's there to lose capping off the idle speed motor? You only seal it o=
ff
with a vacuum cap, and adjust the idle speed screws to where your car idles=
the way you want. It literally takes less than a minute to undo. I've found=
that
my car runs MUCH stronger, and idles infinitely more smoothly through the
screw anyways. You could start my car twice in a row and it would always
settle into a different idle through the ISM. That doesn't happen with the =
via
the screws. This suggests that yes, my idle speed motor was fried... but wh=
y
spend $300 for a new one when it will fail again in the future, and my car =
seems to be happier as is?
<SNIP>
I just was discussing this off-list with another DML'er, but since we're on=
this
discussion right now, I'll go ahead and share it with the rest of the group=
here.
Since I first got my car, I had the exact same problem with my car. Even wo=
rse
though, because I would have to tap the gas pedal to knock the RPMs down if=
they settled too high. When letting off of the gas, the RPMs would fall way=
too
fast, and would occastionally bog down the motor to the point where my
alternator light would come on. And if the all electrical accessories were =
on,
then the motor would totally stop. Even worse with the A/C. Just turning it=
on
would create too heavy a load on the motor, and it would stall out. Ended u=
p
swapping out an alternator, ISM, and the Idle Speed ECU. The problem STILL =
wouldn't go away!
As it turned out, the problem was the Microswitch for the Idle Speed Circui=
t. It
wasn't making proper contact/ I tried adjusting the stop bolt on the thrott=
le
armature, and that still didn't do a thing. I ended up bending bracket for ="">
the
switch up to meet the stop bolt halfway. Enough so that the switch was
pushed down almost all the way. VIOLA! The problem was instantly fixed!
Ever since then, my RPMs will quickly fall, but they no longer "drop" like =
the
used to, and the idle never drops below 750±, and my headlights now stay
bright at night (although a good amount of credit there must go to my 150am=
p
alternator!), and now the idle only "hunts" for about 2 quick revs when col=
d.
Now if the manual by-pass on your car works, and you're happy with it, then=
by all means, go with what you're most comfortable with. However, for futur=
e
referance, you might want to spend a few minutes making sure that the
Microswitch is being fully depressed before ripping out/moddifying the enti=
re
Idle Speed Ciruit. It's a helluva lot easier, and cheaper!
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 01:42:15 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Auxillary Air Pipe(s)
If the pipe is "loose" then it may not be sealing at the "o" ring. If
the cold start valve is "loose" too that is another source of a vacuum
leak. ANY vacuum leak is bad, it reduces the ability of the ISM to
control the air going into the motor and leans the mixture measured by
the air sensor plate. To fix these leaks you will remove the intake. I
fixed a Delorean that had a loping idle, the brass ring was hanging on
the air pipe along with the "O" ring. As soon as it was fixed the idle
impoved dramatically.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxx> wrote:
> The pipe goes into a hole in the bottom of the fuel dist housing. It
> has an o-ring that creates the seal. If the pipe is not completely in
> the hole and/or the o-ring is missing or dislodged, the car will run
> horribly or not at all due to the huge vacuum leak.
>
> Same for the other one. Unfortunatly you need to remove the intake to
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 01:36:28 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Transmission conversion AT/MT
You can convert an automatic to a manual and vice-versa. The best way
to do it is with a donor car so you can get all of the nuts, bolts,
brackets, springs, etc. You will need to make a plate so you don't
have to change the frame. It is a BIG job. IMHO it is easier to
properly fix whatever problem you are having then to try to do the
conversion. A leaky automatic transmission might just need some seals.
There are some leaks that are easily fixed without removing the trans.
Make sure the level is correct as per the Workshop Manual. Too high a
level will make it leak more. If the trans is shifting well and the
fluid is nice and red and doesn't smell burnt then you might just need
some "O" rings.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello all:
>
> Id like to throw this out there and see where it
> goes. Be gentle.
>
> I have an automatic transmission in my D and yes
> it leaks. (not bad yet). As soon as I have time I
> will address this matter, but I got to thinkin... If
> the AT were in such bad condition that If requires
> major repairs hypothetically speaking, I for one, am a
> total stranger to the AT. This is my first one. That
> means big money.
>
> The question is..............
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 02:11:57 -0000
From: "Joe B" <jsjb100@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: door lights
Hi All
This is probably a simple question for you. The red door light on the
driver door burned out, all the others work on both doors. How do I
get to the bulb to replace it? Does the rubber seal and red plastic
pop out or do I have to unscrew something in the door to get to the
bulb?
First time this happened to me, and I can't find this simple thing in
the shop manual.
Thanks
Joe B.
VIN 2957
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 19:25:55 -0500
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Brass Idle Speed Screws
> The DMC workshop manual shouldn't necessarily be taken as gospel regarding
this engine.
Blasphemer!
;-)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 02:17:45 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Dead DeLo
With all due respects, this little adventure took about an hour out of
my evening. Was able to diagnose missing ground within minutes.
Longest part of process was walking to house to retrieve tools (for
some reason forgot sockets & wrench. Must be a genius), then walking
BACK to Food Lion to retrieve truck.
I only felt foolish because I trusted someone else's mod.
There's no telling where PO grounded the pump, and I'm not about to
wedge myself under luggage compartment looking, but can tell you
exactly where I will: at exposed frame right next to tank. #5939 will
never be sold, but if it were, a future owner would have to be blind
to miss that.
Regarding original electrical system: please see pic of melted
headlight switch in #5939's photo album. Car almost burned up on that
one. Original headlight master switch is UNPROTECTED (compare to
hazard switch), yet contains load bearing bulb and attendant ground.
Brilliant.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx> wrote:
> I guess this is just further proof that you should try to keep the
> electrical system as close to origional as possible.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 02:50:56 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Manual Idle vs Automatic Idle
Fully agree that properly functioning automatic idle system is
preferable to manifold screws. Mine was improperly malfunctioning.
Sometimes would stick fully open. Sometimes would stick fully closed
(that's when I discovered what those screws are for). Replacement
motor and ECU exceeds $500. Screws are already in place. Guess which
route I chose...
Fast idle is accomplished with an "auxiliary air valve". Extremely
common on other cars contemporary to DeLorean. In fact, mine is used
from a BMW ($5 on eBay).
Originally thought I would also have winter and summer idle speed
settings, just as I do on my Lincoln re-carbs (Edelbrock wants $80 for
an A/C solenoid!), but find that simply leaving aux air valve open
works just as well. Really only need in city driving.
In your defense, while Volvo 260 used manual idle speed circuit, a
1990 760 I recently popped hood on had an idle speed motor that looked
just like DeLo, in exactly the same place.
I think it's important to understand manual idle circuit for diagnosis
if nothing else. How else to rule out idle speed motor as a potential
problem?
My experience has been that rocket science doesn't age well. On my
Lincolns, for example, automatic headlight ativators and dimmers are
usually DOA. Is a challenge just to keep cruise controls properly
functioning. Would argue is unrealistic to expect ALL DeLo ECU's and
idle speed motors / Lamda valves to function today as they did 22
years ago. Some do -- more power to them. But an owner shouldn't
assume he or she will be so lucky. Running problems may well be
attributable to a failed system. Mine was (and I don't even have Lamda).
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx> wrote:
> When you disable the idle speed motor you give up a lot. The motor
> will no longer run faster when cold and if you turn on the A/C or run
> a lot of accessories like headlights and rear defogger the ISM cannot
> keep the idle speed stable. Under high loads at idle the ISM will keep
> the idle at 775 rpm. The fixed metering screws cannot adjust to
> varying loads. In addition in some states you are not supposed to
> tamper with anything that can affect the emissions. Some states do
> check these things. For your own sake and that of a future owner it is
> usually best to keep the car as origional as you can. It is often
> harder to make changes than to try to stay origional.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx> wrote:
> > Mention this to list with trepidation because it usually ignites flame
> > war, but IMHO is important:
> >
> > At same time JZD was messing around with idle speed motors, Volvo just
> > used brass screws already built into PRV to set idle. Low tech, yes,
> > but less subject to problems. I think every owner should know how to
> > use in case automatic idle system fails or needs diagnosis, if
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 23:06:24 EDT
From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Dead DeLo
Bill,
keep me (us) updated on your fule pump mystery ground wire. This may be a
guess on my part but it seems that many fuel pumps are mysteriously grounded
somewhere on the front of the car by PO's out of frustration. My car runs perfect
even with the inertia switch tripped!...so somewhere between the fuel pump
harness and the inertia switch my car is grounded. I am guessing it may be under
the windshiled washer motor...I dont feel like tracking it down now but you
are right better to know where its grounded then to trust it will remain that
way.
time for another trip up north? :-)
Mike C
2109
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 03:08:01 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Ripping out automatic idle speed circuit
Actually all you need remove to disable automatic idle speed circuit
is the short piece of hose connecting motor to cold start tube. That's
all. (Of course loose ends need to be plugged with vacuum caps). And
nothing needs to be added -- manual screws are already in manifold.
Furthermore, you can jump back and forth between the two simply by
tightening screws and putting short hose back.
I do recommend replacing O rings on the brass screws to ensure vacuum
tight (bottoms are tapered into seats so this isn't an issue when
snugged down).
Note that throttle plate microswitch also activates spark advance cut
off solenoid. If it doesn't work, car will be way over advanced at
idle. Vacuum chambers on CPR only respond to sudden CHANGE in vacuum,
so they can't help. Sometimes wonder how many owners are cranking mess
out of fuel mixture screw trying to get RPM's down when problem is
actually ignition timing (over advance).
Bill Robertson
#5939
>
> Now if the manual by-pass on your car works, and you're happy with
it, then=
>
> by all means, go with what you're most comfortable with. However,
for futur=
> e
> referance, you might want to spend a few minutes making sure that the
> Microswitch is being fully depressed before ripping out/moddifying
the enti=
> re
> Idle Speed Ciruit. It's a helluva lot easier, and cheaper!
>
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 03:10:47 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: door lights
Page M:11:03
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Joe B" <jsjb100@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi All
>
> This is probably a simple question for you. The red door light on the
> driver door burned out, all the others work on both doors. How do I
> get to the bulb to replace it? Does the rubber seal and red plastic
> pop out or do I have to unscrew something in the door to get to the
> bulb?
>
> First time this happened to me, and I can't find this simple thing in
> the shop manual.
>
> Thanks
>
> Joe B.
>
> VIN 2957
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 03:13:51 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: door lights
Ahh - one of those little known facts of DeLoreans. Replace the whole
fixture. That's how the part is sold. I didn't even realize this
until I saw a whole bin full of the things at DMC Houston (Ohio at
the time).
Dave
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Joe B" <jsjb100@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi All
>
> This is probably a simple question for you. The red door light on
the
> driver door burned out, all the others work on both doors. How do I
> get to the bulb to replace it? Does the rubber seal and red
plastic
> pop out or do I have to unscrew something in the door to get to the
> bulb
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 03:20:13 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Radiatior.
Don't put "Stop Leak" in ANY cooling system (nothing peculiar to
DeLo). Is super glue, JB Weld, and goodness knows what else rolled
into one. Usually stops up everything EXCEPT radiator (well, that's
not true. Will stop up the little cooling passages, which are the
important parts, but leave side channels unaffected, which is where
leak usually is).
Mechanic buddy once pulled what looked like big grey sausage out of a
water jacket. Was wayward Stop Leak.
He calls it "Stop Up".
Note that a stopped up water jacket will also trap air.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxx> wrote:
> Replace it. Not repairable, don't put any gunk in this cooling
> system.
>
> OEM or brass replacement, doesn't really matter. OEM fits better, all-
> brass cools better, cost about the same.
>
> Dave Swingle
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Silek" <dsilek@xxxx> wrote:
> > My radiator is leaking... Suggestions? Please send
> reponses/suggestions
> > off list to dsilek@xxxx .
> >
> > Thank you in advance,
> > David Silek
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 03:34:34 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Marylanders at SEDOC
Shouldn't y'all be coming south instead? Understand there will be
Barbeque at SEDOC. Food of the gods. Am planning to bring some
Cheerwine to go with. Just so everyone above frost line knows:
Barbeque isn't supposed to look like something from the Flintstones.
Re: fuel pump ground -- I'm going to run a brand new wire all of 12
inches. Frame is exposed next to fuel tank. Will drill a hole and tap
it there.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, billsfanmd@xxxx wrote:
> Bill,
> keep me (us) updated on your fule pump mystery ground wire. This may
be a
> guess on my part but it seems that many fuel pumps are mysteriously
grounded
> somewhere on the front of the car by PO's out of frustration. My car
runs perfect
> even with the inertia switch tripped!...so somewhere between the
fuel pump
> harness and the inertia switch my car is grounded. I am guessing it
may be under
> the windshiled washer motor...I dont feel like tracking it down now
but you
> are right better to know where its grounded then to trust it will
remain that
> way.
>
> time for another trip up north? :-)
>
> Mike C
> 2109
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 23:32:48 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Dead DeLo
Bill, Take a look at this picture on my web site.
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-images/front-frame.jpg
-----Original Message-----
From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2003 7:18 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: Dead DeLo
With all due respects, this little adventure took about an hour out of
my evening. Was able to diagnose missing ground within minutes.
Longest part of process was walking to house to retrieve tools (for
some reason forgot sockets & wrench. Must be a genius), then walking
BACK to Food Lion to retrieve truck.
I only felt foolish because I trusted someone else's mod.
There's no telling where PO grounded the pump, and I'm not about to
wedge myself under luggage compartment looking, but can tell you
exactly where I will: at exposed frame right next to tank. #5939 will
never be sold, but if it were, a future owner would have to be blind
to miss that.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 23:59:12 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Replacement MSD Coil
Bill, Keep in mind. We talk about 12 volts, but when the car is setting the
battery should be 12.6 volts and running should be around 14.4 volts by the
regulator. The only time we would see 12 volts would be ign off and a weak
battery or when running and the voltage drops because of lights on or
something like that. That's why sometimes a dropping resistor may be used.
14.4 down to 10+.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2003 12:00 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Replacement MSD Coil
I think he meant $50 for coil and resistor as package (still pricey
compared to mail order, but storefront retailer does have overhead).
NOTE: resistor is for ignition module's benefit, not coil. In fact
these high voltage coils are designed for max performance with 12v
ignitions (will work with OEM's at slightly lower output). Unless
you've upgraded factory ECU, make sure replacement resistor rated
comparably. Otherwise you'll cook ECU.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 20:51:53 -0700
From: Josh Keady <joshkeady@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: A small favor...
Rich, I get the impression that you haven't used a legitimate
compression gauge to check your cylinder compression... am I just
reading things wrong or have you actually hooked up a gauge that
measures cylinder compression in PSI/bar/mmHg etc? That you're getting
compression you can feel is good, but your thumb can only be so
accurate, if ya knowadImean...
Just adding one more thing to the pile,
Josh
On Thursday, July 31, 2003, at 03:46 PM, cruznmd wrote:
> Ok guys,
>
...
> When I pull the plugs, I get a -great- "whuff" of air from the spark
> plug holes. You can put your hand 2 or 3 feet above the engine and
> feel it easily, but nothing from the exhaust.
>...>
> Thanks,
>
> Rich
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 05:09:03 -0000
From: "steve" <steve@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Just changed to SS Clutch line, better, but REVERSE and 1st gear STILL won't go!
81 Manual Delorean 17k miles
Clutch starting to not go into 1st and reverse a month after i got
the car, the previous owner didn't drive much. still had stock clutch
line, i replaced it with the SS clutch line, bled it out and every
thing. I had NO clutch fluid leak anywhere. My fluid level is
good, right after we put it in, we tested the clutch when it was
still half way up on jacks, the reverse and first gear worked very
well (little stickyness in reverse), but we go and drive it and 1st
gear still has trouble getting into it, and reverse ALWAYS wants to
grind, sometimes, the thing spins down and stops, but most of the
time the gear just wont go in cause it rubs. i have no more money,
what in the freak is going on........ tired of this. remember ,
the car only has 17k miles and all gears are sticky kinda but 1st and
reverse are wayy worse. also 5th gear has always been hard-you got
to slam it in there to get it to work. please help before i go
insane.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 00:29:01 -0500
From: Warren Turkal <wturkal@xxxxxxx>
Subject: pictures of wheels
Is there anyone out there that can provide some high quality/resolution
pictures of the DMC's wheels? I need pictures that show all important angles
with tires and without tires.
specific list of pictures wanted:
1)front and back wheel next to one another from outside (spoke view)
without tire
2)outside of wheel without tire
3)inside of wheel
4)tire mounting area of wheel
5)outside of wheel with tire
6)inside of wheel with tire
Any help getting these kinds of pictures at 1600x1200 or 1280x1024 in would be
really nice.
Please mail these directly to me if you can do this as it would be too much of
a burden on the list.
Thanks,
Warren Turkal
--
Treasurer, GOLUM, Inc.
http://www.golum.org
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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 06:00:20 GMT
From: ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Dead DeLo
I was surprised to find that the fuel filler neck is grounded. I said to myself, "hey, that's a good idea! I wouldn't want a static spark there!"
I've spend some time on the side of the road. The leatherman has repaired a burst fuel hose and retightened the hose clamp on a coolant pipe that blew off from water overpressure/undertorquage of the hose clamp.
Another time a hose downstream of the AC vacuum switch burst. I felt like I was driving an aircraft- I just turned on the AC on MAX and the leak stopped! I *almost* thought i had a redundant system for a second.
Jim
1537
--- "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Mmm, this crow tastes good...
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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 23:20:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Idle speed regulator removal
Dave,
Im wondering what the mirror is for. It looks to be
like the two rubber hoses connected on both sides are
in reasonably accessable location, unless there is
something else im missing.
thanx
jordan 11613
--- Dave Swingle <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Getting it out is the easy part. Pull it and the
> whole tube out.
> Getting it back in is another matter. Involving some
> luck and small
> mirrors. It's quite do-able though. See adjacent
> post for the
> pitfalls. To avoid dirt clean everything before you
> start taking
> things apart.
>
> Dave Swingle
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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 00:18:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Louie Golden <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Brass Idle Speed Screws
Interesting... thanks for sharing that Robert! I may fiddle with that the next time I get to play with my car. No worries... I will not be removing any parts from my car. The only thing that is removed right now is the vacuum hose that runs between the ISM and the cold start vavle. The only thing I'd have to do to return the car to normal is to remove the vacuum caps from the cold start valve and ISM, replace the hose, and tighten down the screw.
I'm a firm believer in keeping the DeLorean in tact, and original. Even when I replace damaged/inferior parts on my car, I keep the originals. My cars previous owner did lots of cheap fixes, shoddy work, and I'm still replacing missing odds and ends from my car. So anyways, the moral of the story here is, I'm not saying everyone go out and go to a manual idle circuit. All I am trying to convey is if necessary, it can be done and the car won't suffer from it... and in fact one may find the car idles smoother, and accelerates stronger.
Louie Golden
VIN 10115
--- "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx> wrote:
As it turned out, the problem was the Microswitch for the Idle Speed Circuit. It wasn't making proper contact/ I tried adjusting the stop bolt on the throttle armature, and that still didn't do a thing. I ended up bending bracket for the switch up to meet the stop bolt halfway. Enough so that the switch was pushed down almost all the way. VIOLA! The problem was instantly fixed!
Now if the manual by-pass on your car works, and you're happy with it, then by all means, go with what you're most comfortable with. However, for future referance, you might want to spend a few minutes making sure that the Microswitch is being fully depressed before ripping out/moddifying the entire Idle Speed Ciruit. It's a helluva lot easier, and cheaper!
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
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Pre-order the updated second edition of "DeLorean: Stainless Steel Illusion" now! Details <a href="" href="http://www.stainless-steel-illusion.com">http://www.stainless-steel-illusion.com" target="_blank">here!</a>
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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 00:49:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: door lights
Hello all:
If you had to replace the whole fixture, what an
opportunity to modify an old fixture to use several
high intensity LEDS.
thanx
jordan 11613
--- Dave Swingle <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Ahh - one of those little known facts of DeLoreans.
> Replace the whole
> fixture. That's how the part is sold. I didn't even
> realize this
> until I saw a whole bin full of the things at DMC
> Houston (Ohio at
> the time).
>
> Dave
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Joe B"
> <jsjb100@xxxx> wrote:
> > Hi All
> >
> > This is probably a simple question for you. The
> red door light on
> the
> > driver door burned out, all the others work on
> both doors. How do I
> > get to the bulb to replace it?
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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 09:37:31 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Living in the Bermuda Triangle
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Henry" <henry@xxxx> wrote:
> > And don't forget to hold the gas pedal down 1/4, to halfway while cranking
as well.
> > With a dead/> closed ISM, and closed throttle plates, the engine is choked
>
> It's funny you say this now, as this apparently was my "ignition" problem the
whole time. Until today, nobody suggested holding the pedal down a tad
while cranking and engine that won't otherwise start. Most every time I tried to
start the car, it was just reaching in and turning the key.
>
> -Hank
Yup. Holding the gas pedal down while cranking the engine is actually apart
of the starting instructions that come with the car from DMC. You can actually
take a look here at a copy of the instructions from the 2nd edition of the
Owner's Handbook, hosted on the DMC News site:
ftp://dmcnews.com/pub/ownmanr1.pdf
According to the Parts Catalogue, there's also supposed to be an information
label that gives instructions on how to start the car properly. But damned if it's
on my car...
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
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