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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. new here, Hi.....
From: "Dayle" <dayle@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. An Epiphany
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. RE: more issues with ignition
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. RE: Out.
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: An Epiphany
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: ATTN!! to the WISCONSIN man who purchased my DeLorean in KENTUCKY.
From: "Jennifer Tipton" <Jtipton@xxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Tie rod ends (sp)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Tie rod ends (sp)
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. New Engine
From: "aaron_t_graham" <aaron_t_graham@xxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: more issues with ignition
From: "Henry" <henry@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Engine Compartment Light
From: "deloreanchuck" <chuckkay@xxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Tie rod ends (sp)
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
13. Re: ATTN!! to the WISCONSIN man who purchased my DeLorean in KENTUCKY.
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
14. windows are screwed up... again...
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: more issues with ignition
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Back to Basics?
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. RE: Re: Tie rod ends (sp)
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. RE: Re: Tie rod ends (sp)
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
19. RE: windows are screwed up... again...
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
20. RE: more issues with ignition
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: New Engine
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: Re: ATTN!! to the WISCONSIN man who purchased my DeLorean in KENTUCKY.
From: "Jennifer Tipton" <Jtipton@xxxxxxxxx>
23. No ignition
From: "vin4258" <vin4258@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: Re: ATTN!! to the WISCONSIN man who purchased my DeLorean in KENTUCKY.
From: "Jennifer Tipton" <Jtipton@xxxxxxxxx>
25. Re: ATTN!! to the WISCONSIN man who purchased my DeLorean in KENTUCKY.
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 07:27:09 -0000
From: "Dayle" <dayle@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: new here, Hi.....
bought one DMC, within a month I ended up with 3 DMCs all needing some
restoration. I also own a few Subaru SVXs so it was only
matter of time before I got a DMC.
I can see Im going to have my work cut out for me on these
cars. Im sure Ill be asking some questions often too.
Im a mechanic by trade, and run a small performance car
shop here in Tucson.
Sure youll be hearing from me in time, Ill be visiting often
thanks....Dayle
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 12:35:19 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: An Epiphany
As usual, a fellow DML'er handed me an epiphany, well sort
of...something I had been considering but didn't want to admit.
Consider:
An engine with new head gaskets that had the timing chains and
sprockets removed, now assembled cranks exceedingly hard. New
starter, new, larger capacity battery.
Timing light indicates 13 BTDC. That's only electrical timing though.
I am absolutely certain that the pistons have not struck and bent any
valves (engine was handcranked first) but could I still be off on my
valve timing?
If the valves weren't synchronized properly, then the engine is
fighting itself right? It has also occurred to me that I don't here
any of the "sighing" that the air makes when expelled or inhaled. I
don't know about the PRV but I'm used to this in other engines.
Help me with valve timing terminology:
What does "on the rock" and what does "overlap position" mean when
referring to the valve positions? Open, closed or what?
I have everything else. Fuel, air, good, hot spark. Starting fluid
changes nothing. New fuel pump, CPR, injectors, fuel dizzy, filter.
All tested sat.
What else could it be besides timing, given the symptoms?
Thanks,
Rich
#5335(The Zombie DeLorean)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 08:09:37 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: more issues with ignition
Henry, The ignition coil may have gone out. That along with the pick up coil
have the same characteristics when the quit. Make sure the inertia switch
didn't trip on it's own and the wires on the bottom of it didn't over heat
and lose connection.
I check the coil for fire by lifting the wire out of the middle and have
some one try to crank the car and see the fire jump. You can also do it from
the plug. Even on the new pick up coil you put in, check the resistance Hot
and cold. Did you test the old pick up coil to make sure it was bad.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Henry [mailto:henry@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 10:59 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] more issues with ignition
Well, my joy only lasted one day. Friday, after replacing the
distributor/pick up coil, the car ran very well for a nice hour+ long drive.
Saturday, I'm driving to a friends house, and nothing seemed out of the
ordinary until I accidentally stalled the engine on a slight hill. I'm not
sure if I actually stalled it, or it lost power and stalled on it's own.
After that it would not start AT ALL. It cranks, the fuel pump is working,
everything seems totally normal - it just won't start.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 08:17:10 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Out.
Richard, On my site is a picture of where to set the 02 screw to try to get
it back to the original setting.
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-images/air-flow-adj-2.jpg
John Hervey
-----Original Message-----
From: cruznmd [mailto:racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, July 26, 2003 1:39 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Out.
That's right. I'm "out".
Out of money, out of ideas and tricks, out of patience.
I have replaced the starter, and all of the fuel components. I have
spark on all 6 plugs, air and fuel. Too much or too little I don't
know because I have no idea where to set the CO screw and it was
likely tampered with by the idiot of a mechanic I let work on it in
December.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 14:50:03 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: An Epiphany
Hi Rich
Okay, I've done the chains, and taken photos, but I'll explain in words
because I'm not at my flat (going home tonight where my camera lead is!).
You get the crankshaft rotated to the keyway points to the RH camshaft.
The timing mark which is on the middle sprocket on the crank points
roughly skywards. Put the chain on so the single timing mark aligns with
the timing mark on the middle crankshaft sprocket. Then by slotting the
camshaft sprocket into the chain so the timing mark on that lies between
the double marks on the chain, you can rest the camshaft sprocket on the
end of the cam and rotate the crank till the camshaft sprocket slots
into its locking slot. This last bit is how I do it because no matter
how hard to try, you never get the blasted pin lining up on the camshaft
sprocket! Now put in the chain guides and you can forget about the RH
chain.
Now rotate the crankshaft so the timing mark (NOT the keyway) points to
the lower oil pump mountig bolt - roughly half-past-four. This does not
have to be accurate. Now drop the chain over the middle sprocket so the
single timing mark on the chain aligns with the mark on the sprocket.
Now drop the camshaft sprocket into the chain so the two marks on the
chain sit either side of the mark on the sprocket. Again by resting the
sprocket on the end of the camshaft, you can rotate the assembly around
by turning the crankshaft, till the locking pin drops into the slot on
the camshaft. When you see the pictures, you'll see that by this point,
ont he engine I'm working on today, the timing mark on the crank end has
already left the crankshaft sprocket. Now put the chain guides back in.
When I first did the job, I spent ages getting the camshaft slot to line
up properly so I could put both chains on with the marks as they appear
in the manual. The problem is it's a pain in the arse to turn either the
crank or the camshaft to the left - you always end up unscrewing the
nut/bolt - and you can't just spin it round 350 degrees because you run
the risk of hitting a valve on a piston.
THEN, reassemble the oil pump chain and sprocket, timing cover, pulley
and crankshaft nut. Now, an explanation: There are two timing marks on
the pulley. We only use one of them. The camshaft rotates once for every
two rotations of the crank. You need to get it so cyl #1 is in firing
position. This means that the valves are both closed on cyl #1. For the
valves to be closed, the rocker arms that control them will be clear by
0.1mm (inlet) and 0.25mm (exhaust). If you wiggle them by hand, they
will rattle slightly. The inlet valves are in the middle of the "V" and
the exhuast valves are on the outside. Explanation over.
Now take spark plug #1 out. Drop a long screwdriver down the hole and
gently turn the crank so you can work out which timing mark hits 0 on
the timing plate when piston #1 is at the top of its stroke. When you
have worked this out, and the mark is on "0" - watch the rocker arms on
cyl #1 and turn the crank first to the left by a few degrees and then to
the right by a few degrees. If when turning to the left, you see exhaust
rocker arm start to move, and then to the right of TDC, you see the
inlet rocker move - this is when the arms are "on the rock" and this
means the piston has just finished exhausting, and started induction.
This is 360 degrees out from TDC on firing stroke. Spin the crank by 360
degrees, and you should now feel play the rocker arms on cyl #1. You can
NOW drop the distributor in so the rotor arm points to the mark on the
body of the distributor. Make sure you get it so you can adjust the
dizzy either way - you won't get it spot on, but you'll get it on the
right "tooth" on the drive gear. Lock it down as near as you can judge
it, and put the cap on.
While at TDC on firing stroke, the following valve clearances can be
adjusted:
Inlet 1 2 4
Exhaust 1 3 6
Now rotate the crank by 360 degrees, and adjust
Inlet 3 5 6
Exhaust 2 4 5
When adjusting the valve clearances, you have to get snug fit with the
feeler guage - not too tight and not too lose - you will get a feel for
it after a while. Too tight, and when you're adjusting it you will start
to open the valves. Too loose and the valves will not open fully and for
less time, and will rattle.
Now reassemble everything else. Adjust the fuelling so the injectors
"crack" when the metering flap is down by a millimetre or so. Jump the
coil with 12v. Get a friend to turn the key and you reach down to the
vacuum advance diaphragm on the distributor and while it's cranking,
start moving the dizzy around. You should hear a point where the engine
is trying to fire. It may not. If not, try turning the misture
adjustment screw another 1/2 turn to the right. The conditions required
in getting this sucker started for the first time may be vastly
different from what it'll merrily run at once it's fired up for 30
seconds or so - eg over-rich and over-advanced.
Okay, I can hear my girlfriend buzzing the timing cover bolts on with
the air-wrench from here, so I'd better go and check she's got the right
sized bolts in each hole..... will post the photos later
Martin
PS no idea what "cylinder overlap position" is :-)
cruznmd wrote:
>As usual, a fellow DML'er handed me an epiphany, well sort
>of...something I had been considering but didn't want to admit.
>
>Consider:
>
>An engine with new head gaskets that had the timing chains and
>sprockets removed, now assembled cranks exceedingly hard. New
>starter, new, larger capacity battery.
>
>Timing light indicates 13 BTDC. That's only electrical timing though.
>I am absolutely certain that the pistons have not struck and bent any
>valves (engine was handcranked first) but could I still be off on my
>valve timing?
>
>If the valves weren't synchronized properly, then the engine is
>fighting itself right? It has also occurred to me that I don't here
>any of the "sighing" that the air makes when expelled or inhaled. I
>don't know about the PRV but I'm used to this in other engines.
>
>Help me with valve timing terminology:
>
>What does "on the rock" and what does "overlap position" mean when
>referring to the valve positions? Open, closed or what?
>
>I have everything else. Fuel, air, good, hot spark. Starting fluid
>changes nothing. New fuel pump, CPR, injectors, fuel dizzy, filter.
>All tested sat.
>
>What else could it be besides timing, given the symptoms?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Rich
>#5335(The Zombie DeLorean)
>
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 11:33:18 -0400
From: "Jennifer Tipton" <Jtipton@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: ATTN!! to the WISCONSIN man who purchased my DeLorean in KENTUCKY.
Hello, Im trying to track down the young man from Wisconsin purchased my
DeLorean about 4 or 5 months ago. We met each other thru this mailing list.
Admin's I ask that you please allow this to post, as I NEED to contact this
young man.
My old computer crashed completely, as in 100% and it will be many many
hundreds of dollars to recover my harddrive, therefore I dont have your
contact information anymore. Ive been hoping you would email me so that I
can send you out the spare blank DMC keys I still have.
With that said, the Commonwealth of Kentucky has contacted me and informed
me that Im required to Vehicle Exhaust Test the DeLorean within 7 days or
they are going to revoke my license.
I called to tell them this was a mistake and that I dont own the car anymore
and much to my suprise they told me that I DO still own the car....you have
NOT transferred the title yet. I absolutely need you to transfer the title
ASAP because as of this moment *I* am still the owner of that car. Call me
at 502-797-1845. I need the title transferred immediately.
Jennifer Tipton
Louisville Kentucky
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 15:34:58 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Tie rod ends (sp)
Here are some of the reasons tie rod ends go bad:
Wrong tie rod end
Over greasing or under greasing
Out of balance wheel
Bent rim
Removal with the wrong tool (a pickle fork will usually ruin the seal).
Maybe it sat on the shelf too long and the rubber was rotten?
If it is only the rubber seal you might be able to get a generic
replacement at the local auto store. Take off the old one and bring it
to the store and try to match up a replacement. Before reassembling
wipe off the rod end as much as you can and after reassembling
relubricate with grease. Use new cotter pins and tighten the nut to
the correct torque spec. If you don't turn the rod end you should not
have to have the car aligned again.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Jerry" <jlharry@xxxx> wrote:
> Why do I need to replace my tie rod ends after only a couple hundred
miles.
> Alignment checks ok, car does not pull either way, tire wear is not
evident.
> The tie rod ends have come apart again. The seals are broken open
and dirt
> can get in, this can not be right.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 16:04:21 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Tie rod ends (sp)
If the failure involved is the translucent plastic boots on the OEM
ends, get rid of them. They were not very good when new, and even
worse now that they are 20+ years old. There are some generic rubber
boots available either thru DMC Houston or with some careful shopping
at your local parts store, although it's often difficult to get the
boots without the whole tie-rod end. There should also be some
generic urethane (red) ones that fit ("Energy Suspension" brand).
Dave Swingle
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx>
wrote:
>> Removal with the wrong tool (a pickle fork will usually ruin the
seal).
> Maybe it sat on the shelf too long and the rubber was rotten?
>
> If it is only the rubber seal you might be able to get a generic
> replacement at the local auto store. Take off the old one and bring
it
> to the store and try to match up a replacement. > David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Jerry" <jlharry@xxxx> wrote:
> > Why do I need to replace my tie rod ends after only a couple
hundred
> miles.
> > The tie rod ends have come apart again. The seals are broken open
> and dirt
> > can get in, this can not be right.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 17:47:57 -0000
From: "aaron_t_graham" <aaron_t_graham@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: New Engine
I am having a new DMC Houston crate engine (with the performance
mods, of course) installed in my D. I'm trying to figure out what I
should do with my old engine. I'm not sure exactly how many miles it
has on it, but I estimate somewhere between 70k and 80k.
I was going to have this engine swap done next year, but I had it
accelerated because of a leaky crankcase. Other than that, the
engine idles smooth and runs well. It's been a daily driver for me
for 3.5 years. I've taken good care of it and some of the parts
(fuel injector hoses, ignition parts, etc.) are relatively new.
If there is anyone on the list who would like to have/buy this
engine, contact me off-list for further details at aaron_t_graham(at)
yahoo.com.
Also, if there is anyone who has had experience with these new modded
engines and has any tips/pointers/issues please let me know. I'd
like my first experiences with this new engine to be as trouble-free
as possible.
Thanks.
Aaron
#1506
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 14:07:11 -0400
From: "Henry" <henry@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: more issues with ignition
I still can't get the car started. Here's the info I have so far.. please help if you can:
First, the ignition coil is "questionable". Out of the car/cold, measuring the resistance between terminal 1 (-) and terminal 4 (the secondary winding) I get 9.5 k ohms. I get the same 9.5 k ohms resistance between terminal 4 and terminal 15 (+ primary coil winding). John Harvey measured a known good coil and got the exact same measurements. The "Delorean Technical Information Manual" from Rob Grady says that the primary winding should be 0.95-1.4 OHMS, and the secondary should be 5.5k-8k ohms. I don't know which is correct or if my coil is good or bad.
Second, according to the DTIM, I should have 6-8 volts on terminal #15 of the coil when the ignition switch is on the "run" position. I'm getting 4.6V.
Third, according to the DTIM, I should have 0.5-2 volts on terminal #1 of the coil when the ignition switch is on the "run" position. I'm getting 2.5V.
According to John Harvey, I should be getting 10-11 volts on the Blue/Yellow wire at the compensating resistor during cranking. I'm getting about 9.5 volts. On the other side, I'm getting about 7-8 volts.
The battery has about 12.6 volts.
When I pull the spark plug wire on the drivers side (cylinder #6) and crank the engine, I get a small yellow/orange spark.
I've tried jump starting the car with another during these tests, and the Delorean still won't start. I get more than 13 volts when the cars are jumped. It cranks very strong when jumped and cranks pretty well when not jumped.
I've checked the inertia switch and connector, and it looks fine.
Interestingly, I'm NOT getting the frequency valve buzzing when the car is in the "run" mode but not started. I AM getting a moderate hum/buzz from the idle speed motor which I hadn't noticed before.
And as you all know, I've just replaced the pick-up coil and distributor cap.
Any suggestions would be most helpful. Thanks in advance.
-Hank
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 00:30:47 -0000
From: "deloreanchuck" <chuckkay@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Engine Compartment Light
THANK YOU FOR THE INFO ON THE SWITCH. I REPLACES THE ENGINE
SWITCH WITH ONE LIKE JOHN HAS ON SPEC-T. I HAD TO MAKE MY OWN PIG
TAILS. THE NICE THING ABOUT THIS KIND OF SWITCH IS YOU CAN PUSH IT
OFF BY HAND AND STICK A PIECE OF PAPER/TWIG UNDER THE PLUNGER TO KEEP
IT OFF WHILE YOU HAVE THE ENGINE LID OPEN.
WHAT I NEEDED WAS A GLOVE BOX SWITCH. I FIRST WENT TO A CHEVY
DEALER, BUT HE DID NOT HAVE ONE. NEXT TO A BUICK DEALER, AGAIN HE
DID NOT HAVE ONE BUT HE WENT ONLINE AND FOUND A CADILAC DEALER WHO
DID HAVE ONE. SO ON THE THE CADY DEALER. HE HAD IT. IT HAD BEEN ON
THE SHELF SO LONG THE PACKAGE (2 PIECES OF PAPER GLUED TOGETHER WITH
THE PART IN BETWEEN) HAS DRIED OUT AND SEPERATED. THE PART WAS
ALMOST IDENTIAL TO THE STOCK PART. THE COST WAS $4.24. I POSTED A
PICTURE ON THE PHOTO SECTION OF DML UNDER G/E SWITCH. STOCK ON LEFT
GM ON THE RIGHT.
CHUCK 10610
dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxx> wrote:
>
> GM # 90033510
>
> I bet these switches are used in many other GM cars, too.
> Glove Box, trunk.....
>
> Elvis 6548
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 01:18:31 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Tie rod ends (sp)
You put on NOS tie rod ends. The rubber is brittle and breaks. I had
several sets of the NOS tie rod ends and the rubber grease seal on
all of them broke the minute some flex was required. I remember
seeing somewhere someone offered a replacement seal but I decided to
go for Grady's aftermarket replacements. Looks conventional and the
seal is nice and tight and, the price was right.
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Jerry" <jlharry@xxxx> wrote:
> Why do I need to replace my tie rod ends after only a couple
hundred miles.
> Alignment checks ok, car does not pull either way, tire wear is
not evident.
> The tie rod ends have come apart again. The seals are broken open
and dirt
> can get in, this can not be right. The ones on my 72 ford pick up
have been
> on it for 15 years and are not broken open. Is there something
ease that
> causes the tire rod ends to break open other than the ends
themselves.
> Thanks for any help.
> Jerry
> Vin 4890
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 01:34:10 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: ATTN!! to the WISCONSIN man who purchased my DeLorean in KENTUCKY.
Most states have a form you can fill out that says you no longer own
the car - and you don't; you have your money don't you? By
transfering the title in another state word may never make it back
to Kentucky (no fun intended). They must have a way to handle that.
There is really nothing you can do to force someone to transfer the
title.
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Jennifer Tipton" <Jtipton@xxxx>
wrote:
> Hello, Im trying to track down the young man from Wisconsin
purchased my
> DeLorean about 4 or 5 months ago. We met each other thru this
mailing list.
> Admin's I ask that you please allow this to post, as I NEED to
contact this
> young man.
>
> With that said, the Commonwealth of Kentucky has contacted me and
informed
> me that Im required to Vehicle Exhaust Test the DeLorean within 7
days or
> they are going to revoke my license.
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 01:39:21 -0000
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: windows are screwed up... again...
Last year my passenger would not close all the way, the window was
crooked in the slot so when it rolled up the there was a 1/4 inch
open space on the front part of the window. I had took the door apart
and found that the plastic guide clips had come off from the "L"
shaped metal guide rail inside. I put the clips back around the guide
rail and everything was fine until today. Rolled window down, then up
and it was off the track again...
Just a few weeks ago my drivers window started making a loud clicking
sound when it reached what seemed to be the fully closed position. On
closer inspection today I see that it is not rolling up completely
with a space at the front, although a much smaller space than the
passenger side.
Are these symptoms of the worm rail coming out from the worm guide
tube? Would buying the improved regualtor units fix this or does it
seem like I have a different problem?
thanks for any info.
Adam 16683
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 02:02:03 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: more issues with ignition
4.5 volts into coil isn't going to cut it. 6+ is probably minimum, and
I'd shoot for 8. Voltage problem precedes coil. Blue/Yellow wire to
ballast resistors is primary ignition feed, so your problem goes back
even further. Check white wire (or main brown wire) from ignition
relay (closest to seats) to see if you can get 12 volts there.
Just run a wire from jump start post to positive side of coil and car
may well start (assuming you've got 12 volts there). Won't hurt short
term, but will eventually cook ignition module if you leave it.
You want a blue or white spark. If your plugs are high resistance,
probably aren't firing.
Forgot all about that inertia switch (PO permanently grounded my pump
somewhere).
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Henry" <henry@xxxx> wrote:
>
> I still can't get the car started. Here's the info I have so far..
please help if you can:
>
> First, the ignition coil is "questionable". Out of the car/cold,
measuring the resistance between terminal 1 (-) and terminal 4 (the
secondary winding) I get 9.5 k ohms. I get the same 9.5 k ohms
resistance between terminal 4 and terminal 15 (+ primary coil
winding). John Harvey measured a known good coil and got the exact
same measurements. The "Delorean Technical Information Manual" from
Rob Grady says that the primary winding should be 0.95-1.4 OHMS, and
the secondary should be 5.5k-8k ohms. I don't know which is correct
or if my coil is good or bad.
>
> Second, according to the DTIM, I should have 6-8 volts on terminal
#15 of the coil when the ignition switch is on the "run" position.
I'm getting 4.6V.
>
> Third, according to the DTIM, I should have 0.5-2 volts on terminal
#1 of the coil when the ignition switch is on the "run" position. I'm
getting 2.5V.
>
> According to John Harvey, I should be getting 10-11 volts on the
Blue/Yellow wire at the compensating resistor during cranking. I'm
getting about 9.5 volts. On the other side, I'm getting about 7-8 volts.
>
> The battery has about 12.6 volts.
>
> When I pull the spark plug wire on the drivers side (cylinder #6)
and crank the engine, I get a small yellow/orange spark.
>
> I've tried jump starting the car with another during these tests,
and the Delorean still won't start. I get more than 13 volts when the
cars are jumped. It cranks very strong when jumped and cranks pretty
well when not jumped.
>
> I've checked the inertia switch and connector, and it looks fine.
>
> Interestingly, I'm NOT getting the frequency valve buzzing when the
car is in the "run" mode but not started. I AM getting a moderate
hum/buzz from the idle speed motor which I hadn't noticed before.
>
> And as you all know, I've just replaced the pick-up coil and
distributor cap.
>
> Any suggestions would be most helpful. Thanks in advance.
>
> -Hank
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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 02:21:07 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Back to Basics?
You've all seen my flailings regarding attempts to start my car.
Here's an interesting twist:
After reading some more and making some more phone calls I went back
to the distributor. Despite the fact that I aligned the rotor
correctly, and #1 piston was at TDC, -and- the timing light strobed at
13 degrees BTDC when checked, I was slapped in the face with the
realization that perhaps I set the dizzy on the wrong stroke.
So I double checked that I had indeed set the dizzy for #1 TDC. Rotor
lined up, a screw driver showed that #1 was TDC and the pulley mark
lined up with "0" on the scale (so I didn't set to #6 piston by
mistake). I pulled the dizzy, cranked 360 degrees and dropped it back in.
NOW the engine back-fires a lot where before there was nothing,
although it didn't start. I only fiddled with it for a couple of
minutes. The rain was pouring down, it was dark and I didn't have a
buddy to crank it while I adjusted the distributor. Not to mention I'm
not sure the O2 screw is set right just yet.
Does back-fire necessarily indicate an over-advanced timing condition?
I'm trying to figure out which direction to turn the dizzy on my next
attempt.
Thanks,
Rich
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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 21:41:58 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Tie rod ends (sp)
Dave, If anyone is intrested, I have a breakdown and replacement boot kit on
the web site on how to clean up and repair and replace.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/chassis-frame.html
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Swingle [mailto:swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2003 9:04 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: Tie rod ends (sp)
If the failure involved is the translucent plastic boots on the OEM
ends, get rid of them. They were not very good when new, and even
worse now that they are 20+ years old. There are some generic rubber
boots available either thru DMC Houston or with some careful shopping
at your local parts store,
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 23:47:51 -0400
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: RE: Re: Tie rod ends (sp)
Putting on 20 year old tie rod ends is foolish. They are the same as the Triumph Spitfire and can be had at Moss Motors. Part # 668-047 65J158Z.
Jim 6147
"Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx> wrote:
>You put on NOS tie rod ends. The rubber is brittle and breaks. I had
>several sets of the NOS tie rod ends and the rubber grease seal on
>all of them broke the minute some flex was required. I remember
>seeing somewhere someone offered a replacement seal but I decided to
>go for Grady's aftermarket replacements.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 23:55:08 -0400
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: RE: windows are screwed up... again...
I've noticed that the common failure with my regulators was that when the window was run down fully, there was no stop to limit the windows downward travel. It then flexes the regulator and loads up the the front and rear plastic clips, forcing one or both off the the track. I cured this problem for both my windows by installing a stop to limit the lower travel of the window opposite the point where the window attaches to the regulator assembly. A 4 inch drywall screw with rubber vac line over the threads run through the stainless steel structure opposite this point works well.
Jim 6147
"Adam 16683" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>Last year my passenger would not close all the way, the window was
>crooked in the slot so when it rolled up the there was a 1/4 inch
>open space on the front part of the window. I had took the door apart
>and found that the plastic guide clips had come off from the "L"
>shaped metal guide rail inside. I put the clips back around the guide
>rail and everything was fine until today. Rolled window down, then up
>and it was off the track again...
>
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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 22:53:07 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: more issues with ignition
Bill, I think he has the voltage, Normally about 10.25 is the cranking
voltage to the coil under normal conditions. With the engine so tight, I
think what's happening is the voltage/current is being drawn down so low it
doesn't want to start. Remember the old days when we used to parallel two
batteries to get a new rebuilt engine to crank over.
John Hervey
-----Original Message-----
From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2003 7:02 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] more issues with ignition
4.5 volts into coil isn't going to cut it. 6+ is probably minimum, and
I'd shoot for 8. Voltage problem precedes coil. Blue/Yellow wire to
ballast resistors is primary ignition feed, so your problem goes back
even further. Check white wire (or main brown wire) from ignition
relay (closest to seats) to see if you can get 12 volts there.
Just run a wire from jump start post to positive side of coil and car
may well start (assuming you've got 12 volts there). Won't hurt short
term, but will eventually cook ignition module if you leave it.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 23:40:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: New Engine
Hey that would be a great engine for a documented restoration. Pictures and all, Im sure upon completion there would be someone on the list who would buy one if their engine were beyond repair.
jordan 11613
aaron_t_graham <aaron_t_graham@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
I am having a new DMC Houston crate engine (with the performance
mods, of course) installed in my D. I'm trying to figure out what I
should do with my old engine. I'm not sure exactly how many miles it
has on it, but I estimate somewhere between 70k and 80k.
I was going to have this engine swap done next year, but I had it
accelerated because of a leaky crankcase. Other than that, the
engine idles smooth and runs well. It's been a daily driver for me
for 3.5 years. I've taken good care of it and some of the parts
(fuel injector hoses, ignition parts, etc.) are relatively new.
If there is anyone on the list who would like to have/buy this
engine, contact me off-list for further details at aaron_t_graham(at)
yahoo.com.
Also, if there is anyone who has had experience with these new modded
engines and has any tips/pointers/issues please let me know. I'd
like my first experiences with this new engine to be as trouble-free
as possible.
Thanks.
Aaron
#1506
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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 05:05:21 -0400
From: "Jennifer Tipton" <Jtipton@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: ATTN!! to the WISCONSIN man who purchased my DeLorean in KENTUCKY.
Actually yes there is. According to the small print on the bottom of the VTR
and an attorney in the atty generals office I spoke with yesterday I have
the LEGAL right to get a duplicate title and to reposses the car. WITHOUT
giving back payment. I'd say the fact that I can legally reposses the car
is pretty big incentive to get it transferred.
Conversly, did you know that legally at this moment if he wrecked that car
and killed 30 people in a farmers market like that guy in California...*I*
can be held responsible?
30 days, thats what you have to transfer. After that its considered "fraud".
And yes, according to Frankfort ( our Capitol) they would receive word if
the title had been transferred.
I still havent heard from him.
Jennifer
----- Original Message -----
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2003 9:34 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: ATTN!! to the WISCONSIN man who purchased my DeLorean in
KENTUCKY.
> Most states have a form you can fill out that says you no longer own
> the car - and you don't; you have your money don't you? By
> transfering the title in another state word may never make it back
> to Kentucky (no fun intended). They must have a way to handle that.
> There is really nothing you can do to force someone to transfer the
> title.
>
> Harold McElraft - 3354
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 09:32:31 -0000
From: "vin4258" <vin4258@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: No ignition
Ever since the car overheated on June 15, I noticed a grinding noise
when starting it. Not all the time, but was there. The car started
right after the short noise and ran fine. I have only started the
car maybe 10 times since then and now it won't start at all. I would
say that the grinding noise was not a big enough problem to cause
this, but I don't know. When I turn the key, nothing happens. The
battery is charged and everything works, but the starter won't do
anything. My dad came over and we first jumped the battery cable at
the starter to the solonoid and it started fine. We assume that the
starter is OK, and went to the relays. I swapped the ignition relay
for the similar high beam relay and the car started, and the high
beams worked. We thought the problem was fixed and he left. Four
hours later I went into the garage to try it again and it had the
problem again, so maybe it's not the relay. I can hear a slight
clicking from the relay compartment when I try to start it, but no
clicking from the starter. NOthing but the relay noise. I cleaned the
resistor behind the engine and can't think of anything else needs to
be cleaned. The car has been taken care of and has 6500 miles. If
the problem is the key switch, how do I hot-wire the car to check?
If this is a common problem, what other causes are there. FYI the
car runs fine and I have never had a problem with it. I pull started
it when it wouldn't start the first time, but don't want to do that
again or get under the car to start it (or have some rewire
contraption in the relay compartment.)
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 05:37:40 -0400
From: "Jennifer Tipton" <Jtipton@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: ATTN!! to the WISCONSIN man who purchased my DeLorean in KENTUCKY.
There are also "Collection" companies that I can sell the title to..they buy
the title at a fraction of the worth of the car say...$5.000 and then go and
retrieve "their" car.
I dont plan on doing this, but Im letting you know it IS indeed an option
and is regularly done.
Jenn
----- Original Message -----
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2003 9:34 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: ATTN!! to the WISCONSIN man who purchased my DeLorean in
KENTUCKY.
> Most states have a form you can fill out that says you no longer own
> the car - and you don't; you have your money don't you? By
> transfering the title in another state word may never make it back
> to Kentucky (no fun intended). They must have a way to handle that.
> There is really nothing you can do to force someone to transfer the
> title.
>
> Harold McElraft - 3354
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 25
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 12:12:13 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: ATTN!! to the WISCONSIN man who purchased my DeLorean in KENTUCKY.
I would think a copy of the bill of sale would help also. I hope they
have one.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxx>
wrote:
> Most states have a form you can fill out that says you no longer
own
> the car - and you don't; you have your money don't you?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
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