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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Uh oh
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Replacement of front speakers
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
3. Shop Manual CD
From: "phoenix00622002" <barbara0892@xxxxxxx>
4. Probing list for interest of D get together in NC
From: iznodmad@xxxxxxx
5. LED instrument panel illumination question
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Low End Hesitation Fixed!!!
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
7. tools
From: Warren Turkal <wturkal@xxxxxxx>
8. Re: Delorean power mirror diagram power mirror testing
From: "Henry" <henry@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Tilley's Electric DeLorean
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. RE: Second plea for voltage on coil
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: coil voltage on transistorized ignition
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Mothers Polish Car Show Series
From: iznodmad@xxxxxxx
13. AC Problem
From: "Bob Thomason" <rdt7@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Window regulator - how to tell what you have!
From: Sonny V <sonnyvr2000@xxxxxxxxx>
15. Door Locks
From: Paul Salsbury <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Replacement of front speakers
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Venting outside air over engine
From: "thomaspaulmccoy" <thomaspaulmccoy@xxxxxxxxx>
18. Thought Id startup another howto
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
19. AW: AC Problem
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxxxx>
20. Re: Window regulator - how to tell what you have!
From: "thomaspaulmccoy" <thomaspaulmccoy@xxxxxxxxx>
21. RE: Venting outside air over engine
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: tools
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
23. Tilley's Electric DeLorean Delorean Car Show
From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
24. DMC manuals PDF project
From: "minox8x11" <mpaine@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Re: AC Problem
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 12:52:44 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Uh oh
Funny that Dave T should recommend that I yank the block and just do
the whole thing. That's what I wanted to do from the very start but
everyone told me I "didn't need to do all that".
That's ok. At the end of the day, I know who's responsible for the
decisions I've made. Me.
Now as far as running the engine for only a few hundred miles with
thinned out oil and coolant, you guys haven't been paying
attention. :) I haven't -driven- mine yet. I've only idled it in
front of my house. I -immediately- stopped runnning it when it barfed
coolant/oil on the ground. Well..2 laps around my development parking
lot. But that was it.
Martin, I don't quite understand the part about the manifold gaskets.
I'll test fit them today and see if I can finger it out.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx>
wrote:
>
>
> cruznmd wrote:
>
> >By and large, the bulk of the email I'm getting off list is
telling me
> >to just put the dang thing back together and see what happens. :)
I'm
> >also getting email from folks saying I've gone way further into my
> >engine than they ever have. That's frightening considering I've
owned
> >mine less than a year. Am I just too dumb to know when I'm in over
my
> >head?
> >
> I was going to reply to specifics, but basically your first
sentence
> says it all. When we did our first head-job, we were on the phone
every
> 5 minutes to our engine guy. Now we can strip and engine down to
the
> block in about 90 minutes.
>
> >Now if I only had a pulley-puller....
> >
> You can ease it off with a bit of gentle levering on sequentially
> opposite sides with a pair of decent-sized flat screwdrivers. Just
don't
> go/get mad and bend the pulley.
>
> BTW a couple of hints: CHANGE THE TIMING CHAINS. Not because you
> "should" but because you may find for an outlay of less than $30
your
> engine exhibits a whole new lease of life. And secondly, presumably
> you'll be replacing the exhaust manifold before putting the head
back on
> the block. MAKE SURE you don't get the little tabs on the bottom of
the
> manifold gaskets caught under the head....... (been there, done
that)
>
> Martin
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 06:05:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Replacement of front speakers
Hello all:
I have confirmed that my driver side front speaker
is dead, and not the fault of the radio. I figure I
might as well replace both. It seems almost too easy
to get to from the bottom but I have this feeling that
to remove them, i have to take the whole dash apart.
Does anyone know the easiest way to get at these
speakers for replacement?
thanx
jordan 11613
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 13:42:07 -0000
From: "phoenix00622002" <barbara0892@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Shop Manual CD
I was wondering if the Delorean shop manual or any other info put on
a CD. Also what are the best manuals and where can they be bought.
What is the last known serial number produced?
AJ & Barbara
VIN#15500
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 13:25:31 EDT
From: iznodmad@xxxxxxx
Subject: Probing list for interest of D get together in NC
Myself and fellow list member Louie Golden have been pondering a possible D
gathering somewhere in North Carolina, possibly in the Triad area
(Winston-Salem, Greensboro, and High Point) or Charlotte area depending on interest. This
is an open invitation for anyone (owners and enthusiasts) for a weekend in
late July or early August. In the past it has been extremely difficult to get
anyone to participate in this area despite the fact there is a large
concentration of D's in the area. Please contact me directly if you have interest or
even ideas about meeting areas and/or things to do during this proposed meet.
Use the following email: Iznodmad(at)aol.com
Regards,
Darren Decker
#5000
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 04:02:19 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: LED instrument panel illumination question
Was there not some recent discussion along lines of LED instrument
panel illumination? I'll search archives, but just in case I come up
empty...
One of my Lincolns has lost most of the little tabs that hold blue
filters for instrument bulbs (old brittle heat fried plastic). Before
I reverse engineer new holding arrangement, has anyone had success
with 194 sized LED's in an instrument panel? Am particularly concerned
with intensity and evenness of illumination compared to bulbs. Would
be a lot easier simply to change color at the sockets.
Prefer LED's over colored 194 bulbs to limit future heat damage.
Want to go back with traditional green BTW.
Bill Robertson
#5939
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 20:59:02 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Low End Hesitation Fixed!!!
Well, it was a grueling day yesterday, which continued into today,
but 06960 is back up and running once again!
What did we do? More like what DIDN'T we do.
Yesterday after everything was put back together, the car would fire
right up, but die 1/2 second later. We managed to keep it running
via the cold start valve, but as we all know, thats not right. We
pulled the injectors out and "cracked" them, and cleaned of the
Platinum +4 plugs, tested the fuel pressure (~4 bar), and put
everything back together. It fired right up that time, but was
idleing very very poorly. It was all over the board from 500-2000
rpm. I took it out for a test drive to warm it up good before
hooking it up to the scope. 5 minutes later it quit on me while
slowly accelerating in gear. I pulled into a parking lot and tired
to restart it, no luck. It was doing the same thing it had been
when we first put it back together, only this time it wouldn't run
at all on the cold start. Tinkering with the mixture a little more
didn't help either. Pulled it back to the shop, let it sit
overnight.
Today we went at it again. Still wasn't starting, so we raised the
fuel pressure to an estimated 5 bar (havn't measured it yet), and
replaced the plugs with normal Bosch Supers, and cracked the
injectors one more time. Still no luck. It would fire right away,
but die a 1/2 second later. Finally, I decided to put my original
coil and ballast resistors back on. I had replaced them with a
Bosch 25,000 volt super coil when I did the tuneup 3 weeks ago.
VAROOM!!! Fired right up and was running "almost-great". There is
still a small idle fluxuation (doesn't seem like normal lambda
flux), but its running great in gear, and the low end hesitation and
miss that I had is now gone.
I'll be taking it back to my uncle's shop one more time on tuesday
night to verify the correct fuel pressure, and ensure the mixture is
correct. Hopefully nothing will go astray untill then, and after
then.
Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 01:26:06 -0500
From: Warren Turkal <wturkal@xxxxxxx>
Subject: tools
Does anyone here have an opinion on a Snap-On 1/2" drive wireless electric
impact wrenches? Are they good quality?
Warren
--
Treasurer, GOLUM, Inc.
http://www.golum.org
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 09:11:24 -0400
From: "Henry" <henry@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delorean power mirror diagram power mirror testing
Just FYI, I did something like this over a year ago and posted the results (including a wiring diagram) here:
http://www.eskin.net/saabswitch.html
-Hank #1619
----- Original Message -----
Subject: [DML] Delorean power mirror diagram power mirror testing
> Look here for the picture
> http://www.ventureworthy.com/retro/delorean/pics/mirrorsetc/deloreanmirrorwire.jpg
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 10:21:30 -0400
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Tilley's Electric DeLorean
Hi All,
For those of you following Carl Tilley's attempt at "free energy", his
assets (including the D) have been seized by the government for
investment fraud. You can check out the story at
http://wsmv.com/Global/story.asp?S=1301610
-Dave Stragand
VIN #05927
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 12:44:19 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Second plea for voltage on coil
Dan, Sorry I couldn't bak sooner. Voltage checks at 2500 RPM's to simulate
driving conditions.
Resistor left side, 11.6 to 11.9 volts
Resistor right top, 13.4 volts
Resistor bottom right, 10 to 10.3 volts
Coil #15, 9.8 to 10 volts
Coil #1 , 8.4 volts.
John Hervey
-----Original Message-----
From: miltdanfoss [mailto:d@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 4:57 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Second plea for voltage on coil
Can someoen do me a HUGE favor and measure voltage on the #15 post on
the coil? It is marked.
One side is #1 one side is #15. You simply put the key in the
ignition and put in the on position, then measure voltage with black
lead on ground and positive on #15 on coil.
Mine is 7 VDC, my mechanic friend says it should be 12 VDC (or
battery voltage to be precise).
This would help me in my next troubleshooting step.
Heck, I'll even throw in a MARS MER-B "Opportunity" Launch Poster for
the first person to tell me.
Thanks,
Dan in Cocoa (3932)
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 03:45:00 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: coil voltage on transistorized ignition
You don't want full 12v on MOST vintage transistorized ignition
systems. Will eventually fry the module.
You DO want 12v on old fashioned points, but that's another story...
7 volts at rest is a bit low but within specs (I'm 8 at rest, 10
running -- same as late model Lincolns!). If your starting relay isn't
functioning is probably too little juice to fire engine. Run a wire
temporarily from the jump start post and see if that will kick things.
Engine should then stay running without it.
Am willing to bet your ballast resistor connections are corroded or
rusty. This is a job for sandpaper (spray cleaners won't cut it). Of
course resistors themselves could be bad -- test with ohm setting on
your multimeter (use scale big enough to see 1/10ths). Anything more
than .5 ohms each is bad. Your battery could be dying too.
I'm a big fan of electricity. All my vehicles (except the truck --
sorry old friend) run 40,000 or 45,000 volt coils and LOW resistance
plugs. Absolutely no ignition problems whatsoever, no matter the
weather, temperature, altitude, etc. Louie G (with new ignition) will
probably second the verdict: is no substitute for a man-sized spark.
Bill Robertson
#5939
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 12:57:51 EDT
From: iznodmad@xxxxxxx
Subject: Mothers Polish Car Show Series
I was just watching the Mothers Polish Car Show Series on ESPN2 and right
towards the end of the show (about 12:30 EST) one of the hosts was standing in
front of a DeLorean. I was shocked to see it b/c these guys usually don't cover
cars like the D. He commented that it was a nice example with only 4900
miles. It appeared to me to be either an 82 or 83 with grey interior and auto
transmission. The host did not seem to like the D that much saying that it was a
bust and didn't sell well. He also said that even though it had interesting
features like stainless steel and gullwing doors that it was a very "blah" car
that was very boring and didn't have much appeal. Not a very good review,
but obviously this guy doesn't know the following the D has. He finished up by
saying the car would have been better painted and then the camera panned over
and there was Curtis's car! The host seemed to be very much impressed with
the detail of Curtis's car and the show came to an end. My question to the list
is: Where was this filmed at, when was it filmed, and is the owner of the
stainless low mileage car on this list? The host did not interview either owner
nor were there any camera shots of the owners. Any info would be
appreciated.
Regards,
Darren Decker
#5000
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 10:49:27 -0400
From: "Bob Thomason" <rdt7@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: AC Problem
I had an R12 recharge about a month ago and everything is working great except for one annoying problem. After the AC has been running a while, say 30 to 45 minutes, it will begin to blow warm air. If I cut the AC off and then back on, it will begin to blow cold air again. Sometimes I have to do this several times in a row to fix the problem. This happens on either the Normal or Max switch setting. Any thoughts/suggestions?
Bob Thomason #5252
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 10:49:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sonny V <sonnyvr2000@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Window regulator - how to tell what you have!
Some people responded to me that they weren't going to
take apart their doors to see what kind of
regulators/motor were installed. The easiest way to
tell what you have installed is to remove the small
red square light fixture at the back of the door. It's
rubber and easily pops in and out. Just let it hang by
wires and peek inside with a flashlight. If you see a
red tube, that's a new style. If you see a white tube,
that's the original equipment. I've been able to
"unfreeze" a stuck window motor by accessing it
through this hole with a LONG screwdriver and tapping
the end of the motor.
Now that I've armed you with this new information, I
will hold the poll open a few more days, in spite of
the fact that as I just checked, 62 people have
replied.
Sonny
PS - a few others wrote and said that they had more
than one subscription (live and digest). Dare I start
another poll to see how many subscriptions each of us
has? :-P
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 16:39:26 +0100 (BST)
From: Paul Salsbury <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Door Locks
I am now at the end of my wits with these bloody door
locks.
Yesterday I spent most of the afternoon doing the lock
and latch setting procedure, and they still don't
work.... but I did get one step further on.....
Sooo...
I can now lock both doors from both sides, however I
can't unlock either from either side..
The solenoids are good and do work, I have done a
continuity test on all wiring and it is good too.
My lock module has been upgraded and works well.
One point to note after locking and trying to unlock
several times the solenoids are warm to touch.
Please help, I'm begining to think I will only ever
have a manual system....
Paul
#6463
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Want to chat instantly with your online friends? Get the FREE Yahoo!
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 19:09:51 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Replacement of front speakers
I replaced my front speakers last weekend. It can try your patiene
but there are a couple tricks that make the job a lot easier.
For those that still have their original speakers, I was surprised to
find when I removed mine that the foam surrounds on my front speakers
was completely gone. It appears to have deteriorated with time to the
point where it had completely crumbled away. My speakers still
worked, but the quality of sound obviously wasn't the greatest. I
would suspect that most all original front speakers are kaput due to
age.
In order to give me a little better access without removing more
stuff than necessary, I simply removed the air duct leading to the
door jamb on both the driver's and passenger side. Removing these
ducts is a 2-minute job and gives you a little better room. I did not
find a need to remove anything else to get sufficient access.
You get at the speakers using the usual technique of laying on your
back in the footwell. Some people reportedly remove the seats to get
better access, but I have never found this to be necessary. It may
depend on how nimble you are and your general size of build.
Removing the speakers is a breeze. Usually it's getting the new ones
back in that gives people fits since the magnet has a tendency to
steal the fasteners when your fumbling with them under the dash --
but there's a trick to it. Using a properly sized socket on an
extension, put a shim in the bottom of the socket so as to keep the
nut flush with the end of the socket. Put the nut in the socket. Put
the washer ontop of the nut and secure in place with scotch tape.
Using an exacto knife (or similar) cut out the hole in the center of
the washer in the tape (to avoid the tape fouling the threads). The
nut and washer should now be secure in the socket attached to the end
of a suitable extension.
Laying in the footwell, you can now use your setup to screw one side
of the replacement speaker in place. I found that I could only get
one hand on the speaker at a time, but with the little trick it was
possible to hold the speakeri n place while also threading the
nut/washer on the stud. After it's threaded on, the tape tears away
leaving the nut/washer on the stud with the speaker in place. Repeat
with the other stud (which will be easier once the speaker is
suspended from the first fastener).
Because the speaker is mounted from underneath and there is no cavity
to accommodate a protruding tweeter, you have to make sure your
replacement speaker has no tweeter protrusion.
Good luck. The installation can try your patience and working with
your hand over your head is a little tiring, but take your time and
take it easy.
Knut
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, jordan rubin wrote:
> Hello all:
>
> I have confirmed that my driver side front speaker
> is dead, and not the fault of the radio. I figure I
> might as well replace both. It seems almost too easy
> to get to from the bottom but I have this feeling that
> to remove them, i have to take the whole dash apart.
> Does anyone know the easiest way to get at these
> speakers for replacement?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 18:29:10 -0000
From: "thomaspaulmccoy" <thomaspaulmccoy@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Venting outside air over engine
The photos are up (in the "Photos/Bolt of Lightning" folder). The
digital camera I used is a bit fuzzy... but you get the basic idea.
Keep in mind that the vehicle was rolled by the previous owner (much
like my digital camera).
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "thomaspaulmccoy"
<thomaspaulmccoy@xxxx> wrote:
> I will try to get photos this weekend for the lists... for some
> reason I'm not receiving e-mail consistently :(
>
> This is actually the second attempt at the integrated panel/scoop
(I
> discovered that a large scoop does not match the subtle lines of
the
> DMC12). This most recent venture matches the style of the car
> perfectly. For now, the scoop is cosmetic. My plan in stage 2 is
to
> get a brushed or chromed aluminum duct constructed that would take
> the air and direct it onto the engine... similar to the McLaren F1.
>
> Sincerely,
> Thomas 6921
> "Bolt of Lightening" #6921
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 12:36:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Thought Id startup another howto
Hello all:
Ive been caught in a standstill because not all of
my parts have arrived yet to do any work. I want to
do it all at one time, take a zillion pictures and
break it down into seperate instructions.
Not thinking yesterday, and on little sleep i
raised the question of removing the dash to get to the
front speakers. Not thinking about removing them from
under the dash.
I decided this would be easy enough for a late
afternoon howto write-up, for those who want to change
out those nasty old craigs.
BTW - The first HOWTO was updated twice thanks to the
help of the folks at the DMCNEWS group. It doesnt
seem to be updated to DMCNEWS.com however.
THIS HOWTO IS NOT YET COMPLETE. IT ONLY COVERS THE
DRIVER SIDE.
The most updated ones, as well as the new one can be
found here
http://www.ventureworthy.com/retro/delorean/deloreanmain.html
Input, feedback and comments are appreciated.
thanx
Jordan 11613
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 22:08:42 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxxxx>
Subject: AW: AC Problem
Are the fans still running when the air gets warm ?
Fan fail module ? Circuit braker ?
Elvis
I had an R12 recharge about a month ago and everything is working great
except for one annoying problem. After the AC has been running a while, say
30 to 45 minutes, it will begin to blow warm air. If I cut the AC off and
then back on, it will begin to blow cold air again. Sometimes I have to do
this several times in a row to fix the problem. This happens on either the
Normal or Max switch setting. Any thoughts/suggestions?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 18:31:38 -0000
From: "thomaspaulmccoy" <thomaspaulmccoy@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Window regulator - how to tell what you have!
I couldn't participate - there is no option for "No Regulators" on
the poll page :)
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Sonny V <sonnyvr2000@xxxx> wrote:
> the fact that as I just checked, 62 people have
> replied.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 16:10:05 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Venting outside air over engine
How about a few more photos. Looks interesting.
-----Original Message-----
From: thomaspaulmccoy [mailto:thomaspaulmccoy@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, June 30, 2003 12:29 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] Venting outside air over engine
The photos are up (in the "Photos/Bolt of Lightning" folder). The
digital camera I used is a bit fuzzy... but you get the basic idea.
Keep in mind that the vehicle was rolled by the previous owner (much
like my digital camera).
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 17:13:10 -0700
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: tools
I don't have experience with the 1/2" drive ones, but we use the 3/8" drive
Snap-on models at work all the time. If you can, spend the money to get the
higher voltage. The 12 volt ones we have are pathetically weak, you're
better off hand tightening everything. They also overheat easily, and
getting them fixed is quite expensive.
Payne
> Does anyone here have an opinion on a Snap-On 1/2" drive wireless electric
> impact wrenches? Are they good quality?
>
> Warren
> --
> Treasurer, GOLUM, Inc.
> http://www.golum.org
>
>
---
[This E-mail Scanned for viruses by Onlinemac.com]
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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 20:22:41 EDT
From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: Tilley's Electric DeLorean Delorean Car Show
Darn
I had him agreeing to bring the car
now I doubt it
Well thats one less DeLorean in Pigeon Forge
Guess that means we need at least one more to take its place
Ken
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Tue, 01 Jul 2003 00:29:24 -0000
From: "minox8x11" <mpaine@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DMC manuals PDF project
Hello all,
I am undertaking a HUGE task of rewriting the 3 DMC books in my PC. The purpose of this is not to give it away free or in electronic form. If I suceed, and there is a large enough demand, I will create a metal binder enclosed version with updates as they are made. The book will be printed rather then Xerox'd so the words and pictures are clear.
Anyway I have posted samples of the files I am creating in a folder called "6067-pdf" in the files section.
Yes, I know lots of others have tried this task before Dave :-P
Michael Paine
Vin# 6067
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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 01 Jul 2003 01:49:01 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: AC Problem
What is the blower speed when this happens? If on speed one or two
it is probably a connection to the clutch or, the blower motor is
drawing too much current away from the clutch. Blower speeds one and
two run on the clutch circuit. Disconnect and reconnect the clutch
connections in the engine compartment - there are two right there by
the compressor that often get contaminated. Also check the
connections on the accumulator (just take them off and reattach a
couple of times to clear a connection) If that doesn't work try
blower speed three for a few days and see what happens. Blower
speeds three and four run on a circuit separate of the clutch. If
that seems to solve your problem I would say you should take out the
blower motor and oil the felt for the bottom motor bushing. You can
see it through the vent hole. It is probably dried out - most blower
motors have new life after getting a good dose of oil on the felt
(20w) and draw fewer amps. I do mine every several years when I hear
it start to rumble or "knock" some.
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Bob Thomason" <rdt7@xxxx> wrote:
> I had an R12 recharge about a month ago and everything is working
great except for one annoying problem. After the AC has been running
a while, say 30 to 45 minutes, it will begin to blow warm air. If I
cut the AC off and then back on, it will begin to blow cold air
again. Sometimes I have to do this several times in a row to fix the
problem. This happens on either the Normal or Max switch setting.
Any thoughts/suggestions?
>
> Bob Thomason #5252
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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