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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 14 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. No Fuel to injectors
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
2. Re: Reupholster dashboard /was Re: Reupholster Steering wheel and Binnacle
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Delorean World or DW as it is now called
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: No Fuel to injectors
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: No Fuel to injectors
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. INDIGLO!
From: "Ryan" <boy1der18@xxxxxxx>
7. RE: Brake discs
From: "W.\"Ski\" Lukowski" <vegascop1@xxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Re: thermostat
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Poor sad Delorean on Ebay_2415873039
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Re: Thumping suspension
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Florida Get-together
From: mroboto@xxxxxxx
12. Re: 3932 is back on the road (Audiovox cruise control)
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. RE: Re: Thumping suspension
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>
14. Parts from DeLo vendors vs. parts houses (Re: Re: thermostat)
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 21:08:14 EDT
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: No Fuel to injectors
Hi,
I finally had a chance to work on this guys car today. The fuel
distributor is brand new and I have fuel where the feed line enters the
distributor. All of the lines have been double checked and are hooked up
correctly. I remove several of the injectors and place them in bottles with
the fuel pump running. I feel resistance on the air sensor plate but I only
get a dribble of fuel out of each injector line. I have double checked every
connection on the car and they are hooked up properly. I also installed a
new pump today but had the same results.
I remember hearing that fuel pressure could sometimes be cut off
near the fuel filter if it is tightened too hard. Is that a possibility?
What else could be causing this problem? I must have this car out of my
garage in 2 days. HELP ME!!
Thanks
Dave.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 23:35:28 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Reupholster dashboard /was Re: Reupholster Steering wheel and Binnacle
yes it is possible to recover the dash WITHOUT taking it out. You need to
remove the defroster vents (something you need a flexible screwdriver to
do). I did not want to take the dash out and I didn't want to spend $600.00
so I had a local shop recover it in black leather. It looks perfect. Just
make sure they fill in the cracks and make it super smooth or else it will
show through the leather. I will take some pics this weekend. I also did
not want the speaker holes to show through since I installed new ones in the
toekickspace near the door ajar switches.
Joseph
vin 2850
----- Original Message -----
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2003 8:53 AM
Subject: [DML] Reupholster dashboard /was Re: Reupholster Steering wheel and
Binnacle
> Is it possible to recover the dashboard? I'm assuming something
> like this has to be taken out to recover. The problem I see with
> taking it out is that it may break into pieces. I have a couple of
> cracks in my dash. If the dash is recovered, is there still room to
> install it back into the car or does the added leather get in the
> way?
>
> Erik
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 04:19:58 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean World or DW as it is now called
At the request of the previous editor of Delorean World I was invited
to submit an article for the magazine. At the time it was mentioned
that in return I was to be given a 1 year membership if it was printed
which meant I was to get 4 issues of the magazine. It was and I
didn't. After many calls and e-mails to the former editor, the present
editor (Ed Bernstein) and the person in charge of membership I have
yet to get any more than 2 of the magazines. In the meantime I was
told that the dues increased and the # of issues per year has been
reduced. I have been getting the Royal Run-around for over 1 year. I
only got the 2 issues I did receive after many phone calls.
I only mention this for anyone that has or intends to submit articles
that they should know how badly I was treated and what they might
expect after submitting an article. For his part Dave Knudson seemed
to treat me fairly but the situation was taken out of his hands. I
have never been able to get to John Truscott and Ed Bernstein didn't
seem to have any time to deal with me, instead refering me back to
John Truscott.
I would like to hear from anyone who has any recent dealings with DW.
Contact me offlist.
I hope the moderator is feeling generous as I do not intend to start
a flaming thread. I am posting this only after getting nowhere with DW
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 04:26:44 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: No Fuel to injectors
You didn't by chance replace the small diameter line from accumulator
to filter with something larger? That small diameter line is what
creates high fuel pressure, not the pump itself (is not 75 PSI from
the tank). Kind of like putting your finger over end of a garden hose.
See Message #32067. Sounds definitely as though you aren't "cracking"
the fuel injectors. Need minimum 50-51 PSI to start spraying. If
you're SURE everything from fuel distributor forward is factory spec,
may need to adjust fuel mixture screw. You may not have touched, but
are you sure no one else has? Note fuel mixture is set with car
running -- NO VACUUM LEAKS! If you've got an injector out, plug its
port in head -- 1/4" vacuum leak otherwise. Make sure line feeding
idle speed motor from under fuel distributor is tight -- 3/4" vacuum leak.
BTW: are you sure control pressure regulator is plumbed correctly?
Supply is from bottom of fuel distrubutor, same side as tank return
line, port closest to rear of car. Line out of course goes to top of
fuel distributor. This is a wonderfully clear pic:
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-images/fuel-hose-stainless.jpg
Note that lines in this pic cross out of sight when attached to
control pressure regulator itself -- line in is closest to rear of
vehicle, line out closest to tank.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Delorean17@xxxx wrote:
> Hi,
> I finally had a chance to work on this guys car today. The fuel
> distributor is brand new and I have fuel where the feed line enters the
> distributor. All of the lines have been double checked and are
hooked up
> correctly. I remove several of the injectors and place them in
bottles with
> the fuel pump running. I feel resistance on the air sensor plate but
I only
> get a dribble of fuel out of each injector line. I have double
checked every
> connection on the car and they are hooked up properly. I also
installed a
> new pump today but had the same results.
> I remember hearing that fuel pressure could sometimes
be cut off
> near the fuel filter if it is tightened too hard. Is that a
possibility?
> What else could be causing this problem? I must have this car out of my
> garage in 2 days. HELP ME!!
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Dave.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 04:06:51 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: No Fuel to injectors
I still think you do not have enough pressure in the primary pressure
circuit. Jumper the RPM relay so the pump can run constantly. The
procedure to do it is D:04:14 Para #3. If you still can't get the
injectors to squirt then pull the Primary Pressure Regulater apart and
make sure it isn't stuck open and dumping all the pressure back to the
tank. Refer to D:01:06. You might also want to double check the #'s on
the fuel pump, fuel distributer, and injectors. Many of the Bosch
parts appear identical on the outside but are very different on the
inside. The only way to know is the part number! A remote possability
is a sticking plunger in the mixture unit. If you dare to dissassemble
be careful when you put it back together that nothing leaks, use
silicone on the metal gasket. On the plunger don't do anything to
scratch or score it. It is a very precisly machined surface. Just
clean with alcohol or acetone. When you are done it should fit very
smoothly but should fall out of the housing with it's own weight and
not stick. Don't use sandpaper or scotch-brite or anything remotly
harsh on the surface of the plunger. Clean cloths, paper towels, or
Q-tips. The book says the fuel distributer is not serviceable but it
can be done. D:01:16.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Delorean17@xxxx wrote:
> Hi,
> I finally had a chance to work on this guys car today. The fuel
> distributor is brand new and I have fuel where the feed line enters the
> distributor. All of the lines have been double checked and are
hooked up
> correctly. I remove several of the injectors and place them in
bottles with
> the fuel pump running. I feel resistance on the air sensor plate but
I only
> get a dribble of fuel out of each injector line. I have double
checked every
> connection on the car and they are hooked up properly. I also
installed a
> new pump today but had the same results.
> I remember hearing that fuel pressure could sometimes
be cut off
> near the fuel filter if it is tightened too hard. Is that a
possibility?
> What else could be causing this problem? I must have this car out of my
> garage in 2 days. HELP ME!!
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Dave.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 06:07:36 -0000
From: "Ryan" <boy1der18@xxxxxxx>
Subject: INDIGLO!
The INDIGLO dash kits will be available in June! These new kits
from D.A.R.T. come with overlay panels for the binnicle gauges and
the A/C panel that will give your D a whole new light. Choose frome
original INDIGLO where the entire gauges light up around the
letters/numbers and marks, or Reverse Indiglo where only the
letters/numbers and marks light up (including the DMC logo in the
top left). Another kicker is you can choose from a variety of
colors to personalize yours even more. The kits include the panels
for the dash and A/C panel, wiring, and dimmer switch for only
$180US. Feel free to contact me with any questions at info@d-a-r-
t.com
Ryan Gould
DeLorean Automotive Racing Technology
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 23:48:48 -0700
From: "W.\"Ski\" Lukowski" <vegascop1@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Brake discs
Ed,
How much is this whole kit going to run us? That seemss like a nice
set-up.
Ski 4649
-----Original Message-----
From: deloreand [mailto:ed@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2003 1:58 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Brake discs
> For those of you who don't know: DMC Service delivers perforated and
> ventilated front discs, including spacers that fit the original
> calipers to fit the ventilated discs. Race compound brake pads are
> included as well.
> In about three weeks we will have a new kit ready with fore pot
> calipers made of billet aluminum. Including discs, brake pads and
> brake proportioning valves to adjust the brake power at the front. It
> increases a lot and has to be reduced a bit in order to cooperate
> with the rear discs.
>
> www. dmc-service.nl (click on the enlish flag for an english version
> of the site).
>
>Ed Uding
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 06:14:20 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: thermostat
More of a FYI than anything else - I think Dan's right about this - but
our local motor factors here in England cross-referenced the thermostat
from what we gave him (Renault 30 or Volvo 760) to a Porsche 928 (!).
My new one cost me £13 so $18 sounds about right.
Oh, get a new gasket for it - it's not just a simple O-ring
Martin
#1458
#4426
Dan RC30 wrote:
>Why would you take the time to search different places for such a cheap
>part? You can get it for $18.50 at PJ Grady, and you know it's the right
>part. You know you're not going to overheat your engine with the part being
>correct. Is it worth taking tons of time out of your schedule to "possibly"
>save a few dollars? I understand looking for items that are a lot more
>costly at your local store, but really... Remember, if you don't buy your
>parts from a DeLorean vendor, they may not be around when you need a
>DeLorean specific part.
>
>The part number is 102709G and they'll ship it right to your door. You may
>not know this but, not all thermostats are created equal. There are cheaper,
>less reliable thermostats out there. Saving a few dollars could cost you
>thousands in this case if your engine overheats. The thermostat from PJ
>Grady is the best I've ever used. It's been working flawlessly for me for
>years.
>
>---Dan
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 11:04:19 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Poor sad Delorean on Ebay_2415873039
Joseph and others,
The seller of this delorean also bought 2 other great condition
deloreans. He is a used car sales men. He contacted me a couple of
weeks ago to ask some questions about getting the other cars on the
road. The parts car he has came with the other two cars. The man
is a very nice guy. I talked with him in length about the cars and
the history. He really likes the delorean, but he is in it for the
money. Which, since he is a used car sales man, is ok. He isn't
blind siding anyone, he just doesn't know about the cars very well.
Those panels ARE the original panels for the car. He walked me
through the car in detail about what was wrong/missing, that sort of
thing.
I understand that his lack of an email to you may have caused
suspision. I hope this clears things up.
Erik Geerdink
4512
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxx> wrote:
> yeah but this car is different. It was already stripped and
someone
> probably just slapped some old panels on a car. They are being
held
> together by rubber bungee cords ( look at rear pic). Somebody
already
> stripped this car and the owner won't answer any questions. he is
> ambiguous. I don't think he even has the car. He has no
knowledge of
> deloreans, that's for sure. I can't even ask about frame or
panels. he
> says he doesn't know. Weird
>
> Joseph
> vin 2850
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Elgersma" <delorean@xxxx>
> To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Monday, May 19, 2003 1:40 AM
> Subject: [DML] Poor sad Delorean on Ebay_2415873039
>
>
> > For all of us that truly believe that not any Delorean should be
a
> > parts car and all are really up for restoration, you might just
> > think again because when I say this car on Ebay, I really
changed my
> > mind that all Deloreans are restoration projects. This is one of
> > those cars that will challenge you from the ground up. Anyone
with
> > lots of cash to rebuild this car?? Not me!
> > Found at:
> >
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&category=31830&item=2415873039
> >
> > Keep an eye on this car when it reaches closing time on bids!
> >
> > JohnE.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 04:40:31 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Thumping suspension
Don't overlook things sliding around in tire jack compartment too...
Plastic cars are very resonant. Amplify little sounds and carry them
everywhere. Of course should jack up front end for visual inspection,
but like James don't be surprised if culprit is surprisingly small
(hopefully). While front on jack stands, use jack to compress
suspension each side to simulate conditions when car is on ground.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii@xxxx>
wrote:
> It's hilarious how many times I've scared the bejeevers out myself
> when I heard a chair/toolkit/whatever sliding around my trunk. Scares
> me EVERYTIME I put something heavy in there... takes me a few minutes
> to realize... then I feel dumb all over again.
>
> But, I experienced the sound your speaking of (non-parcel related).
> Check that both the Sway bar brackets are not broken. Have you
> installed the recall brackets up there? Are bushing still seated
> nicely.
> It could be the sound of the bar banging against the frame as you
> stop braking. (does it happen just when you let of the brakes)
>
> A 'BOING' I found up front was a tie wrap I had used on something up
> there and hitting the spring and going PING (sounded like a bell).
>
>
> Hope it helps!
> James L 004009
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 08:06:00 EDT
From: mroboto@xxxxxxx
Subject: Florida Get-together
Florida Owners,
We should get an updated list of owners in the Central Florida area to plan
events and get togethers.
If you live in Florida and are a DeLorean owner or enthusist, please email me
with your current info so we can compile this list. Please also let me know
if you wish have your info shared with other owners, or kept confidential.
Thanks!
Daniel Deutsch (Orlando)
#3356 & 15779
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 04:48:51 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 3932 is back on the road (Audiovox cruise control)
Did you use magnet kit for Audiovox cruise unit? If so, how did you
mount stationary pickup unit?
STILL haven't installed mine, but hope to before next trip up I-95. Am
considering making custom triangular bracket to mount pickup on
passenger side of transmisson using tapped holes already there.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "miltdanfoss" <dan.foss@xxxx> wrote:
> Good news!
>
> Fixed my blown water pump, and after I found that my poor job of
> torqueing the crankshaft pulley nut resulted in a 100% loose nut, and
> a loose pulley, I have all back together.
>
> Oh yeah, while it was out I installed a Audiovox CCS-100 cruise
> control, which fit nicely in the spot for the digital clock and I was
> able to install it with minimal modification (only hole I had to
> drill in my D was in the engine electrical compartment. I modified
> the wiring to the "A/C Panel Illumination" relay at the same time,
> and most of the wiring I needed for the cruise was found there. I
> picked up the extra post on the dimmer thermistor in the center
> console for the other I needed.
>
> Dan in Cocoa (3932)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 06:32:34 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Thumping suspension
I had a thump in the front which was caused by one of the shock mounting
bolts being loose. The rubber bushing split and fell out.
Scott Mueller
002981
RNDOLA
-----Original Message-----
From: James LaLonde [mailto:deloreandmcxii@xxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2003 9:09 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: Thumping suspension
> It's hilarious how many times I've scared the bejeevers out myself
> when I heard a chair/toolkit/whatever sliding around my trunk. Scares
> me EVERYTIME I put something heavy in there... takes me a few minutes
> to realize... then I feel dumb all over again.
>
> But, I experienced the sound your speaking of (non-parcel related).
> Check that both the Sway bar brackets are not broken. Have you
> installed the recall brackets up there? Are bushing still seated
> nicely.
> It could be the sound of the bar banging against the frame as you
> stop braking. (does it happen just when you let of the brakes)
>
> A 'BOING' I found up front was a tie wrap I had used on something up
> there and hitting the spring and going PING (sounded like a bell).
>
>
> Hope it helps!
> James L 004009
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 05:40:38 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Parts from DeLo vendors vs. parts houses (Re: Re: thermostat)
Sometimes DeLorean specific vendors will surprise you with price -- a
complete set of Rob Grady's fuel injector seals costs about the same
as one single seal at a parts house.
Some parts should only be purchased from DeLorean vendors (door struts
come to mind). If the part is specific to little silver cars only, or
if risk of damage from generic failure is too great, price is
definitely secondary concern.
Disposable parts -- light bulbs, spark plugs, etc -- make most sense
to purchase from cheapest source available (for brand of part you want).
Sometimes it helps to see part in person before you buy. This was
situation with my valve cover gaskets -- already leery of "paper"
gaskets advertised by DeLo vendors, jumped at opportunity to buy
FelPro's rubber version from a parts house.
If junk yards had DeLoreans, some parts would come from there (usually
body and interior). We do have eBay, parts listings on DMCNEWS, and
swaps, which are kind of similar.
Sooner or later you will engineer a part or installation uniquely your
own. Materials will come from scrap and bolt bins, totally different
applications (household, office supply, etc), or goodness only knows
where. Stretched out spring to reinforce fuel tank pickup hose is a
good example (it's pretty common now, but SOMEBODY thought of it
first...).
And yes, we should all purposefully buy parts from DeLo vendors now
and then simply to support them. Not only is it in our long term best
interest to keep them in business, but these guys often dispense
information free of charge.
Is no single source of parts for an old car.
Bill Robertson (feeling those Percocets now -- time for bed...)
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dan RC30" <danrc30@xxxx> wrote:
> Why would you take the time to search different places for such a cheap
> part? You can get it for $18.50 at PJ Grady, and you know it's the
right
> part. You know you're not going to overheat your engine with the
part being
> correct. Is it worth taking tons of time out of your schedule to
"possibly"
> save a few dollars? I understand looking for items that are a lot more
> costly at your local store, but really... Remember, if you don't buy
your
> parts from a DeLorean vendor, they may not be around when you need a
> DeLorean specific part.
>
> The part number is 102709G and they'll ship it right to your door.
You may
> not know this but, not all thermostats are created equal. There are
cheaper,
> less reliable thermostats out there. Saving a few dollars could cost
you
> thousands in this case if your engine overheats. The thermostat from PJ
> Grady is the best I've ever used. It's been working flawlessly for
me for
> years.
>
> ---Dan
>
>
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 19:26:51 -0000
> From: "cdmcali" <cdmcali@xxxx>
> Subject: thermostat
>
> Does anyone know of a thermostat cross reference. that you can buy at
> any auto parts store?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
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