To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 20 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. RE: Lee's Models
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm@xxxxxxxx>
2. I can make them. Re: Working in Fiberglass techniques?
From: "Andrei Cular" <acular@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. D in the wild
From: ElectroTX@xxxxxxxxx
4. Door Launchers
From: doctorDHD@xxxxxxx
5. Re: Door Launchers
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Door Launchers
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Engine Swaps (my Buick Turbo car is Alive!)
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. RE: engine swaps and tranny questions
From: darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx
9. Dumb question
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jackstiefel@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Other engine/transmission considerations/questions
From: "captain_hydrogen" <captainhydrogen@xxxxxxx>
11. AW: Door Launchers
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxxxx>
12. Re: Door Launchers
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxx>
13. AW: Dumb question
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxxxx>
14. Re: Dumb question
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Working in Fiberglass techniques?
From: Vin 5386 <delorean_stainless@xxxxxxxxx>
16. RE: Re: loose bright lights
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: engine swaps and tranny questions
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Insuring a Delorean(PA)
From: "deloreanz" <deloreanz@xxxxxxxxx>
19. Carfax Help Please
From: "Tamir Ardon" <tamir@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Headlight adjusting springs
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 00:12:44 -0700
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Lee's Models
I'm the person who's been trying to mitigate the situation with Lee
Seiler and the Ltd. Edition DeLorean model kits.
As Dave Swingle said, this only involves a small number (~20) of people
and the other 1000+ DML members are not involved. Dave aims to keep the bar
pretty high here and I totally agree with that. I have an unmoderated Yahoo
list just for everyone who has issues with the kits and that's where I've
kept people updated, but I will sum things up here:
I know it's been a long time and I don't want to again go over the whole
story, but I can assure everyone that Lee WILL complete the kits and
everyone who PAID for a kit will get one. I am in the process of taking
possession of the finished kits and I will personally deliver/ship the kits
to the people who paid for them. I have not been involved with the money end
of the kits (except my own) and I can't handle refunds or disputes over the
money.
I've had a few people (3?) contact me that say they paid for kits but I
don't find their names on the list I currently have(old). Lee will be
turning over all the records to me and I will research those to resolve any
discrepancies. IF we come up short, Lee says he will produce the needed
kits.
A couple of things about the kits:
Lee told everyone that the kits were a commissioned artwork, not a product
(see:
www.dmcnews.com/backissues/feb98files/dml334.html), this was in response to
issues that came up early in the production of the kits. It also means Lee
could take as long as he has to, to complete the 'commission'. As long as
there is no intent to fraud, it's not fraud.
Extra parts: Anyone who has a kit and messes up a part or if something is
not right in the kit contents, Lee will replicate the part and send it for
the cost of postage.
When everyone has their kits I'm sure that anyone who wishes to sell theirs
and put the whole process behind them will be able to fetch a hefty sum. One
of the kits that sold on eBay went for $400, not a bad return for a 2-3 year
investment.
Please contact me off-list if you have any questions.
Ken M
Kenm(AT)csus.edu
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 07:49:26 -0400
From: "Andrei Cular" <acular@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: I can make them. Re: Working in Fiberglass techniques?
I didn't get those molds from ebay, but I can make any part anyone wants out
of fiberglass.
contact me off the list for more info.
Andrei
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Brandys" <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2003 10:21 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Working in Fiberglass techniques?
> Todd,
>
> About 1 year ago, there were fiberglass fenders for a DeLorean on ebay.
> I think there may have been the molds also. Somebody bought these and
> now has the be ability to make these in fiberglass.
>
> For painted Ds, these are a great idea.
>
> Who every bought them should let the list know what happened to them.
>
>
> BOB
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 07:09:52 -0500 (CDT)
From: ElectroTX@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: D in the wild
Hi all,
I never thought I'd get as close as I did to a DeLorean on the streets
yesterday (05/04). If you own the OK plated D that went to the Avril
Lavigne concert in Fair Park in Dallas, TX yesterday, please contact me
off-list at ElectroTX(at)webtv.net. I have so many questions...
Regards,
--David M,--
aka Electro
Sunstar owner only
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 09:08:27 EDT
From: doctorDHD@xxxxxxx
Subject: Door Launchers
Spring has sprung and I want to build my own door launchers. I saw that
there used to be instructions out there but I cannot find them. Can anyone
help out? What are the doors launched with? I have a remote alarm that will
be capable to activate them so I don't need the electronics. I've heard the
Dakota Digital / Ball Actuators will do the job. Any comments? Also it
seems that the Saab 9000 actuators look very similar to the Dakota Digital
ones. Does anyone have more info?
Dave
6530
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 08:40:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Door Launchers
Dave
You piqued my curiousity so I called Dan @ DeLorean
Motor Center and got the following information:
They use the actuators from Auto-Loc. I thought that
was what they used, but didn't want to say for sure
until I checked. You can find Auto-Loc ads in any
street rod mag ( I haven't checked the web, but I'm
sure they have a web site as well).
Dan's only caution was to NOT use any existing wiring.
Run a separate wire to the actuators. They draw a
bunch of current. Dan felt that the reason the long
promised Zilla door launchers had not yet hit the
streets was because of Bob's insistence that no wiring
be changed; ie, plug & play.
I don't have a digital camera, but I'd be happy to
take a picture of the launchers to show you the
location Don & Dan have used for their set-up. I
could scan it and send it to you in a couple of days.
Later
Dick
--- doctorDHD@xxxxxxx wrote:
> Spring has sprung and I want to build my own door
> launchers. I saw that
> there used to be instructions out there but I cannot
> find them. Can anyone
> help out? What are the doors launched with? I have
> a remote alarm that will
> be capable to activate them so I don't need the
> electronics. I've heard the
> Dakota Digital / Ball Actuators will do the job.
> Any comments? Also it
> seems that the Saab 9000 actuators look very similar
> to the Dakota Digital
> ones. Does anyone have more info?
>
> Dave
> 6530
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
http://search.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 08:24:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Door Launchers
Dave
I must agree that door launchers are cool. In fact
they are one of the three best things I've done to my
DeLorean. (The other two are the turbos and the
chromed wheels.)
Here's a suggestion. Call Don Steger at DeLorean
Motor Center. Tell him I said to call. Tell him also
that you bought my old car. Then, since he does not
sell a "kit" and since he is 3000 miles from you, ask
him what he uses. I know that I am very happy with
the set-up and suggest therefore that one consider
what ever he is currently using.
Don has worked on both my cars since 1984 and I
consider him to be a friend. I'll give him a call and
clear the way.
The old "insturctions" came from Darryl Tinnerstat.
Now he seels a kit instead.
Dick
--- doctorDHD@xxxxxxx wrote:
> Spring has sprung and I want to build my own door
> launchers. I saw that
> there used to be instructions out there but I cannot
> find them. Can anyone
> help out? What are the doors launched with? I have
> a remote alarm that will
> be capable to activate them so I don't need the
> electronics. I've heard the
> Dakota Digital / Ball Actuators will do the job.
> Any comments? Also it
> seems that the Saab 9000 actuators look very similar
> to the Dakota Digital
> ones. Does anyone have more info?
>
> Dave
> 6530
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
http://search.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 05 May 2003 14:15:56 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Engine Swaps (my Buick Turbo car is Alive!)
It's ALIVE !!
A big, big thanks to Dave Swingle for getting this beast all
buttoned up by Sunday, May 4, 2003 (05/04/03). He even had
it fired up, running and back from the first series of test
drives about 20 minutes before I had got there on Sunday.
Even after months of not being started, Dave hooked up the
battery we charged last month and it fired up on first try.
However, there is still some good news and bad news details.
The good news is that the drive-train is running very well
and getting better with each break-in test run. Still a very
little clutch chatter, but that may go away in time. A little
tappet or lifter noise upon initial startup, but that is also
quieting down, the more the engine is run. After one shifter
adjustment, the transmission is shifting crisp and smooth.
There is a considerable amount of HP on tap and it is very
tempting to forget about "breaking in" the car gradually.
The bad news includes a few melted wires in the cooling
system wiring, so we had to keep the test runs short and
allow cool down between runs (glad it was only 49 degrees)
but the custom wiring needs to be checked and re-worked.
Looks like the angle drive may not be working (no speedo)
so I cannot tell you how fast Dave and I have had it going.
Brakes have more pedal travel than we would like, but it did
get better as the surface rust wore off the rotors. We may
swap out the brake master with a new or rebuilt unit before
we get to the high speed testing phase. So .....
With plenty of details to work out yet and only 4 days left,
this beast will not be making the trip down to Texas this
weekend for the DMCH open house and the dragstrip shootout.
I will, however, bring some digital video of two test runs.
So when will it be out in public for the first time?
Looks like it will be "ready enough" to be at the Tech Day
on Saturday, May 17th with the Delorean Midwest Connection.
I may trailer it there, but I can do parking lot test runs.
Later,
Rich W.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxx> wrote:
> The stock shaft is long enough if the pilot bearing is mounted in
the outer
> recess of the crank.
>
> <SNIP>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 10:21:42 -0700
From: darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: engine swaps and tranny questions
<<Darrell's spacer between the engine trans is about 3/4 inch. I drew it all
out to scale, it actually matches up pretty well although the clutch disc is
closer to the end of the input shaft than in the stock location.>>
Not quite true. Since I used the face of the Chevy and DeLorean flywheels as
the common reference point for all spacing measurements, the clutch disc is in
the exact same spot. I used a Centerforce DeLorean clutch so that the stock
throwout bearing, release arm, and slave cylinder work with no modification.
And the DMC pilot bearing fits in the end of the Chevy crankshaft with a simple
machined adapter ring that positions it correctly. The bellhousing spacer
ended up being about 20mm thick as I recall, but don't hold me to that as I'm
writing this from memory. Also, for the starter I used an aftermarket high-
torque unit as they don't have the typical Chevy snout which would interfere
with the DMC transmission bellhousing.
Dave called this setup "elegant". I prefer "simple". Why make things more
complicated than they have to be?
Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
-------------------------------------------------
This mail sent through IMP: http://horde.org/imp/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 14:18:32 -0400
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jackstiefel@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Dumb question
I am not great at tracking down electronic stuff, but my drivers side window
has stopped working. I have a meter, but don't know where to start looking.
I don't really want to tear apart the door yet. Where should I start
looking for a break? My passenger side is working great
_______________________________
Jack Stiefel - 104.9 Radio Cape Vincent
Live Internet Radio at 104.9 Radio Cape Vincent
Take a trip to the historic General Delos Sacket House
Proud member of the Audiorealm Radio Network
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 05 May 2003 17:19:55 -0000
From: "captain_hydrogen" <captainhydrogen@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Other engine/transmission considerations/questions
Has anyone on the DML considered or tried any higher horsepower
import four or six cylinder engines for a DeLorean engine mod?
I would think that a lower purchase price, higher reliability, and
readily available performance mods could be expected from Japanese
engines. German engines should work very well and be reliable with
only slightly more maintenance issues than Japanese engines.
I firmly believe that you can improve engine performance while
reducing engine weight and improving fuel economy.
Some engines to consider would be.
Audi/VW 1.8T single turbo inline 4 - 180hp upgradeable to 235hp
Audi 2.7T twin turbo V6 - 250hp
Audi aluminum 3.0 liter V6 - 220hp
VW 2.8 VR6 - 200hp
VW 4.0 W8 [eight cylinder] - 270hp
BMW 3.2 inline 6 - 333hp
Honda 3.0 VTEC V-6 - 240hp
Mitsubishi 2.0 single turbo inline 4 - Lancer Evolution 271
Nissan 3.5 VQ V6 - Altima 245hp - Maxima 265hp - 350Z 287hp
Subaru 2.0 H-4 single turbo - 227hp upgradeable to 280hp-450+hp
Subaru 2.5 H-4 single turbo - 300hp
Though the BMW and Subaru engines might have dimensional conflicts,
most of these engines would fit quite nicely in the DeLorean engine
bay, and work splendidly, especially when mated to the ZF
(www.zf.com) S5-39 or S6-53 transmissions, the Getrag (www.getrag.de)
448 or 450 + Allrad transmissions, or the Quaife (www.quaife.co.uk)
Porsche 6 Speed 996 Transaxle Gearbox $$$$$. Also see Unicap
Transmission Adaptors (http://www.pnc.com.au/~bill/Transmission.html).
When you save a lot of money on the engine by getting one that is as
common as a Honda or Nissan (just go to a junk yard and look for a
new 350Z that has been wrapped around a telephone pole), then you can
afford the best transmission and possibly loose enough weight to
improve the DeLorean's 35/65 f/r weight distribution.
If weight distribution, and fuel economy is not an object, another
option is to contact The Engine Factory and get a 465hp 350 Chevy
Engine (www.enginefactory.com/465hp.htm) for $20 less than DMC's
new "crate" performance engine (be sure to remove the stock
transmission and replace it with something a lot stronger).
Has anyone "cut" a Chevy 350 in half to make a large displacement
(2.867736 liter) V4 that would weigh about 310 lbs., use half the gas
of a V8, and could produce 233hp (and possibly 280+hp) without forced
induction?
Now that we know that the PRV-6 weighs 375lbs. Does anyone know how
much the Renault R30 transmission weighs?
Ben Ferguson
Member of the Board of Directors - American Hydrogen Association
(www.clean-air.org)
Member - Arizona DeLorean Club (www.az-d.org)
captainhydrogen@xxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 21:55:30 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxxxx>
Subject: AW: Door Launchers
Hey Dick,
what' wrong with the existing wiring ?
The yellow/white wire should be good enough for an actuator.
And ground should be no problem at all. I mean, if it's good enough to feed
the solenoids which drain 15 Amps, then the actuators are something like a
children's birthday party....
Oh well, hopefully I will get my actuators mounted tomorrow.
After the doors open and lock/unlock by remote, the car honks like hell
when pushing little button in my pocket and it is even possible to stop the
car via remote - what's next ? Does anybody know where I can get Doc Brown's
radio control unit ?
;-)
Elvis
Dan's only caution was to NOT use any existing wiring.
Run a separate wire to the actuators. They draw a
bunch of current. Dan felt that the reason the long
promised Zilla door launchers had not yet hit the
streets was because of Bob's insistence that no wiring
be changed; ie, plug & play.
Later
Dick
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 12:41:08 -0400
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Door Launchers
On Monday, May 5, 2003, at 11:24 AM, Dick Ryan wrote:
> Dave
>
> I must agree that door launchers are cool.
I'll second that. Door releases on the D are just Too Cool.
>
> The old "insturctions" came from Darryl Tinnerstat.
> Now he seels a kit instead.
Darryl's kit uses Dakota Digital PDR -1 actuators. I installed my
releases using his (formerly available) instructions before he was
selling the kit. The PDR-1 is a motor-based actuator, not a solenoid.
They do the job beautifully and take *much* less current than
solenoid-based solutions. Don't be afraid to use the extra wire in the
door loom. With the PDR-1, it doesn't come close to being a problem,
although I imagine it might if you used solenoids.
I highly recommend Darryl's kit. Works great, and reasonably priced.
OTOH, Bob Z. feels very strongly that the PDR-1 is a "cheap" solution
(plastic gears, etc) that won't last, which is why his system will be
solenoid based. There are interminable discussions on this topic in the
archives, which there is no point in recapitulating. I recommend you
review the discussions and make your own call.
BTW: my alarm system recently died and needs to be replaced. Can
anyone recommend a unit that (a) has enough aux outputs for left and
right launchers and a trunk release and (b) has nice, modern-looking
fobs?
>
> Dick
>
--Pete Lucas
VIN #06703
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 22:07:01 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxxxx>
Subject: AW: Dumb question
Play around with the switch.
If the window ist stuck and you push the button, it drains so much current,
that the A/C-Illumination (oh, cool again that stuff...) will get darker.
If this happens - try to push/pull the window while somebody is pushing the
button.
And pray.....
When the A/C-light doesn't care, check the switch itself, maybe it is
a little bit corroded. Nothing unusual......
Elvis
I am not great at tracking down electronic stuff, but my drivers side window
has stopped working. I have a meter, but don't know where to start looking.
I don't really want to tear apart the door yet. Where should I start
looking for a break? My passenger side is working great
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 13:06:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Dumb question
Jack,
You might try by pulling out both window switches and swapping them. If
now you can only roll down the driver's window - you've got a bad switch.
Other than that, I think you'll really need to open up the door to see
what you've got going on. Most likely this is a window regulator failure,
especially if you still have the originals.
-Christian
On Mon, 5 May 2003, Jack Stiefel wrote:
> I am not great at tracking down electronic stuff, but my drivers side window
> has stopped working. I have a meter, but don't know where to start looking.
> I don't really want to tear apart the door yet. Where should I start
> looking for a break? My passenger side is working great
>
> _______________________________
> Jack Stiefel - 104.9 Radio Cape Vincent
> Live Internet Radio at 104.9 Radio Cape Vincent
> Take a trip to the historic General Delos Sacket House
> Proud member of the Audiorealm Radio Network
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 16:09:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Vin 5386 <delorean_stainless@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Working in Fiberglass techniques?
Yes I remember that, but I'm not talking about
makeing extra fenders but working in fiberglass to
build different original type of parts ect.
Todd
Vin 5386
--- Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Todd,
>
> About 1 year ago, there were fiberglass fenders for
> a DeLorean on ebay.
> I think there may have been the molds also.
> Somebody bought these and
> now has the be ability to make these in fiberglass.
>
>
> For painted Ds, these are a great idea.
>
> Who every bought them should let the list know what
> happened to them.
>
>
> BOB
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
=====
For up to the minute details on the restoration of Vin5386 point your browser to, http://www.khpindustries.com/stainlessrestorations.html
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
http://search.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 19:38:36 -0500
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: loose bright lights
Here is what I think happened...
it's nothing really compared to y'alls engine swaps and such.
There a little spring that pulls up on the light assembly-- both of mine
were hanging loose and disconnected, and what's more the springs were fine,
the frame was fine. In fact, the light frame is black right there and it
wasn't even scratched.
I wonder if those little springs were forgotten at the factory-- but it
seems hard to believe that it took 22 years for the headlights to slip off
the adjusting screws and fall down.
Anyway-- springs all hooked up, back in the adjusting screw grooves and
hunky-dory.
-Kevin
#4687
Houston (lamenting his job that requires him to work this one weekend and
miss the DMC OH... oh well, I have friends in high places who need me)
-----Original Message-----
From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, May 02, 2003 5:09 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: loose bright lights
Your headlights seem to have gotten lost amid engine swaps and fuel
distributors eh?
Each sealed beam assembly is held to a bucket by aluminum frame and
four sheet metal screws. Bucket is then held to header panel by two
adjusting screws and a tension spring. Standard arrangement for any
vehicle of that vintage.
Two possibilities:
Unlikely:
Sheet metal screws have come loose, allowing sealed beam to flop
around in bucket.
Likely:
1) tension springs have rusted to pieces, especially the bent coil
that holds them to bucket/header, removing tension that holds
everything in place
2) tabs on plastic retainers that hold adjusting screws to header
panel have gotten old, brittle, and broken. This will actually let the
bucket fall out.
Remove aluminum frames, unplug sealed beams, and investigate. If
tension springs are DOA, can cut and bend new ones from a single long
spring (but prices from vendors are so cheap you might as well go that
route, time permitting). If tabs on adjusting screw retainers are
broken can substitute the "1/4 Inch Universal" size from "Help" brand
(red packages at parts houses). Cost much less than vendors.
Don't forget to re-aim your headlights afterwards.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxx> wrote:
> I noticed this week that my brights have come loose.
> It's like they've popped out from the adjustment bracket. I haven't been
> working on that end, only in the back, so it's nothing I've done.
> I am just now starting to get the eyebrows, but nothing serious yet. I
> should correct that before it worsens, though.
>
> Any ideas on what made the loose headlights?
>
> -Kevin
> #4687
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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 06 May 2003 00:40:02 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: engine swaps and tranny questions
Darryl
Good - then you solved one of the issues with this car - 3/4" is a
bit too far, IMHO. The trans snout is supported by the pilot bearing,
but in as far as it could be. 1/2" offset from stock would have been
a better dimension, but unlike your (still elegant!) spacer plate,
this one can't be modified. But it is in and working.
I'm not sure where this flywheel came from. Since Buick never build a
stick-shift GN, that may be the source of the problem. It is a steel
flywheel.
Now back to the !@#$ electrical system. . .
Dave
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, darryl@xxxx wrote:
>
> <<Darrell's spacer between the engine trans is about 3/4 inch. I
drew it all
> out to scale, it actually matches up pretty well although the
clutch disc is
> closer to the end of the input shaft than in the stock location.>>
>
> Not quite true. - - - - The bellhousing spacer
> ended up being about 20mm thick as I recall, but don't hold me to
that as I'm
> writing this from memory. Also, for the starter I used an
aftermarket high-
> torque unit as they don't have the typical Chevy snout which would
interfere
> with the DMC transmission bellhousing.
>
> Dave called this setup "elegant". I prefer "simple". Why make
things more
> complicated than they have to be?
>
> Darryl Tinnerstet
> Specialty Automotive
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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 06 May 2003 01:04:33 -0000
From: "deloreanz" <deloreanz@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Insuring a Delorean(PA)
Does anyone know a good company to go with for insuring a D in PA
(even Oklahoma)? I'm considering buying one and would like to know
how much insurance would cost roughly. I don't know that i'll be
driving it much(since i might be doing work on it) so i could go with
classic plates. I might drive it more though(im not sure yet). Any
input on cheap rates? Thanks,
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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 20:38:36 -0500
From: "Tamir Ardon" <tamir@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Carfax Help Please
Hi group,
I need someone's help. There is a car I need to do a history check on, and was hoping someone would do it for me using their account. It is not a DeLorean, but I could really use the help.
The vin # is JT8CH32Y1W1000746
The car is a 1998 Lexus SC400.
Please forward any information about this car to ardont (at) yahoo.com
Thanks,
Tamir
http://www.entermyworld.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 06 May 2003 02:45:24 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Headlight adjusting springs
Springs actually pull DOWN (or back) on headlight buckets. Are like
3rd leg of a stool -- two adjusting screws work against them.
Are surprising inexpensive from vendors ($2 does whole car) -- next
time anyone places an order, add four for future use. Originals are
thin gauge untreated steel. Doesn't take much road salt etc to kill them.
In a pinch you can cut pieces of long tension spring from a hardware
store or Lowes, but final cost will be about same as proper springs
purchased in advance.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxx> wrote:
> Here is what I think happened...
> it's nothing really compared to y'alls engine swaps and such.
> There a little spring that pulls up on the light assembly-- both of mine
> were hanging loose and disconnected, and what's more the springs
were fine,
> the frame was fine. In fact, the light frame is black right there and it
> wasn't even scratched.
> I wonder if those little springs were forgotten at the factory-- but it
> seems hard to believe that it took 22 years for the headlights to
slip off
> the adjusting screws and fall down.
> Anyway-- springs all hooked up, back in the adjusting screw grooves and
> hunky-dory.
>
> -Kevin
> #4687
> Houston (lamenting his job that requires him to work this one
weekend and
> miss the DMC OH... oh well, I have friends in high places who need me)
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson@c...]
> Sent: Friday, May 02, 2003 5:09 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Re: loose bright lights
>
>
> Your headlights seem to have gotten lost amid engine swaps and fuel
> distributors eh?
>
> Each sealed beam assembly is held to a bucket by aluminum frame and
> four sheet metal screws. Bucket is then held to header panel by two
> adjusting screws and a tension spring. Standard arrangement for any
> vehicle of that vintage.
>
> Two possibilities:
> Unlikely:
> Sheet metal screws have come loose, allowing sealed beam to flop
> around in bucket.
> Likely:
> 1) tension springs have rusted to pieces, especially the bent coil
> that holds them to bucket/header, removing tension that holds
> everything in place
> 2) tabs on plastic retainers that hold adjusting screws to header
> panel have gotten old, brittle, and broken. This will actually let the
> bucket fall out.
>
> Remove aluminum frames, unplug sealed beams, and investigate. If
> tension springs are DOA, can cut and bend new ones from a single long
> spring (but prices from vendors are so cheap you might as well go that
> route, time permitting). If tabs on adjusting screw retainers are
> broken can substitute the "1/4 Inch Universal" size from "Help" brand
> (red packages at parts houses). Cost much less than vendors.
>
> Don't forget to re-aim your headlights afterwards.
>
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
>
> >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxx> wrote:
> > I noticed this week that my brights have come loose.
> > It's like they've popped out from the adjustment bracket. I
haven't been
> > working on that end, only in the back, so it's nothing I've done.
> > I am just now starting to get the eyebrows, but nothing serious yet. I
> > should correct that before it worsens, though.
> >
> > Any ideas on what made the loose headlights?
> >
> > -Kevin
> > #4687
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
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http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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