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There are 12 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Re: Engine Swaps and tranny questions
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
2. Water pump
From: "deloreanz" <deloreanz@xxxxxxxxx>
3. Clarification: Re: loose bright lights
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Heater Hose Replacement
From: "kenndeal" <kenndeal@xxxxxxxxx>
5. Working in Fiberglass techniques?
From: Vin 5386 <delorean_stainless@xxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Heater Hose Replacement
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Water pump
From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx
8. BONK!
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
9. sharing car show experience
From: "Eric Itzel" <eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Fuel system Help
From: "deloreanz" <deloreanz@xxxxxxxxx>
11. Lee Models
From: Tom Watkins <dmctom@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Fuel system Help
From: "D F" <funkstuf@xxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 23:11:47 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Engine Swaps and tranny questions
Uh, isn't power transfer the point? That the input shaft give the torque
to the gears, the gears to the final drive, and then to the wheels?
If the swappers insist on using the renault transmission, replace or fix
parts until it's reliable. Why bother adding horsepower if you can't use
them?
Jim
On Fri, 2 May 2003 09:28:43 -0700 "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
writes:
> Don, I think what I call the clutch shaft #103071 is the part that I
> have
> had broke on two standard transmissions. I have thought about
> beefing it up
> but the problem is then the torque is transfered to something else.
> To me
> it's never ending. I had a call a few weeks ago for a rear
> transmission
> mount. Not to be found. Then the problem just keeps getting
> transfered
> around.
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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 03 May 2003 04:14:59 -0000
From: "deloreanz" <deloreanz@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Water pump
Does anyone know how hard it is to change a water pump or how much
one would cost? Thanks for any input,
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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 03 May 2003 04:27:03 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Clarification: Re: loose bright lights
Thought about this a bit more:
Believe I confused my D with one of the domestics in my memory: did
indeed swap factory adjusting bolts with 1/4" universal bolts, but
wasn't because tabs on plastic retainers broke. Remember distinctly
tapping the old retainers to accept 1/4" threads -- problem was
stripped phillips heads on factory bolts. Also checked prices from
vendors: are actually a bit cheaper than Help brand (sorry guys). My
problem was time -- 'twas a Saturday and I didn't want to wait all
week for a D order to come in. You work with the tools at hand...
Is a nice picture page 3-5-0 of parts manual that shows how everything
fits together.
Bill Robertson (apparently getting senile...)
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx> wrote:
> Your headlights seem to have gotten lost amid engine swaps and fuel
> distributors eh?
>
> Each sealed beam assembly is held to a bucket by aluminum frame and
> four sheet metal screws. Bucket is then held to header panel by two
> adjusting screws and a tension spring. Standard arrangement for any
> vehicle of that vintage.
>
> Two possibilities:
> Unlikely:
> Sheet metal screws have come loose, allowing sealed beam to flop
> around in bucket.
> Likely:
> 1) tension springs have rusted to pieces, especially the bent coil
> that holds them to bucket/header, removing tension that holds
> everything in place
> 2) tabs on plastic retainers that hold adjusting screws to header
> panel have gotten old, brittle, and broken. This will actually let the
> bucket fall out.
>
> Remove aluminum frames, unplug sealed beams, and investigate. If
> tension springs are DOA, can cut and bend new ones from a single long
> spring (but prices from vendors are so cheap you might as well go that
> route, time permitting). If tabs on adjusting screw retainers are
> broken can substitute the "1/4 Inch Universal" size from "Help" brand
> (red packages at parts houses). Cost much less than vendors.
>
> Don't forget to re-aim your headlights afterwards.
>
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
>
> >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxx> wrote:
> > I noticed this week that my brights have come loose.
> > It's like they've popped out from the adjustment bracket. I
haven't been
> > working on that en
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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 03 May 2003 19:11:09 -0000
From: "kenndeal" <kenndeal@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Heater Hose Replacement
Anyone know which side of the heater core is feed and return? I
just did all the water hoses but I forgot to label the pipes that
supply the heater. I know it will work either way but I still
remember my high school auto shop teacher saying they should
not be reversed as lodged debris could back flush into the
system.
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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 3 May 2003 16:03:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Vin 5386 <delorean_stainless@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Working in Fiberglass techniques?
Hello Everyone,
I had a question. Would anyone know techniques and the
supplies needed to work in fiberglass? Such as
building replica panels or modified panels? Maybe
someone has actually been involved in these techniques
or could point me to a source such as a manual or
another authority. I'm pondering a project and I'd
have to custom build panels to make it work. If you
happen to have info please message me off list. thank
you!!
Todd
Vin 5386
delorean_stainless(AT)yahoo.com
=====
For up to the minute details on the restoration of Vin5386 point your
browser to, http://www.khpindustries.com/stainlessrestorations.html
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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 04 May 2003 00:57:05 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Heater Hose Replacement
If mine representative, nipple closest to driver was/is return.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "kenndeal" <kenndeal@xxxx> wrote:
> Anyone know which side of the heater core is feed and return? I
> just did all the water hoses but I forgot to label the pipes that
> supply the heater. I know it will work either way but I still
> remember my high school auto shop teacher saying they should
> not be reversed as lodged debris could back flush into the
> system.
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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 3 May 2003 21:48:02 EDT
From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Water pump
Roughly $300 in parts+ $300-400 in labor. I would say to a non mechanic
this
can be a tricky job due to the number of things you have to disconnect
(and
eventually need to reconnect in the right order :-) and that you will
encounter seized bolts...Some people can do this over a long weekend.
I had mine done by a shop....Your actual price will vary depending on
other
stuff you get done since you are in that part of the engine anyway.
Mike C
2109
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 3 May 2003 23:08:27 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: BONK!
ughh....
I took my car out for a spin tonight, and went by my mothers house. I
left the car parked out front while i was visiting, and low and behold,
the neighbor across the street backed into my driver door. :(
Damage is not too bad...couple of small dings on the lower bottom left
of the driver's door near the edge of the door and fender with one
larger "impression" of about 6 inches to the door panel (in the same
area) and a small ding to the front fender on it's edge.
Hopefully it will not cost too much. I got her insurace information,
but we are hoping it can be resolved without involving insurance.
What a pain! :~(
Kevin Abato
Vin# 16680
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 3 May 2003 23:05:53 -0400
From: "Eric Itzel" <eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: sharing car show experience
Hey Everyone
I just wanted to share my first car show experience with you all. The show
was in Townsend TN (just a short ways from Pigeon Forge) and it's held
every spring. The show is themed around British cars. I've met several
fellow DML'ers there before, so some of you know how the show goes.
I won third place in the specialty sedan category- I was one of three
cars, no other DeLoreans (I was pitted against a Lotus Europa and a 1937
Riley, which I've never heard of). I also won a prize in a special
category, the DeLorean achievement award. The British car guys saw fit to
give me a box of Brillo steel-wool pads as an award. I didn't have the
heart to say what the pads would do to the car if I used them...
Just wanted to share a good time, I've been an owner since September '02
and an ethusiast for years, and I've having more and more fun with the D
each day.
Eric Itzel
vin 4433
Sevierville, TN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 04 May 2003 03:26:49 -0000
From: "deloreanz" <deloreanz@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fuel system Help
Im looking at a Delorean for sale and the person has had it garaged
for years and probably has only started it every now and then. What
steps would I need to take (if I bought it) to ensure that the fuel
does not wreck the engine with impurities from sitting a long time?
Just change the hoses associated with the fuel system? Thank you so
much for any feedback.
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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 03 May 2003 20:41:34 -0400
From: Tom Watkins <dmctom@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Lee Models
I think that the moderation team is correct in letting this topic back.
Someone had asked the questions as to why the topic of Lee Sieler was
frowned upon in the past. It is my belief that it was due to the fact
that Lee was making reproduction DMC keys and was the only source for
these items. The fear was that if we as a group, offended Lee he would
stop making the keys. There were many fervent supporters of his
"kitchen" operation and many defenders of his dedication to making keys
for all of us. I too, was a supporter of Lee until these issues started
to rear their head.
There are many people in our community who appear to have lost the money
they sent Lee for these models. We, as a group, should care very much
that people in our "family" of owners and enthusiasts cannot get the
answers they need to bring this issue to a satisfactory conclusion.
This topic should remain in full force until everyone has received
their item or gotten their money back
I believe that one of our list members knows Lee and has posted some
responses from him in the past. We need to ask again.....Why has Lee
not refunded money? Why has it taken 3+ years to get these out? Why does
Lee feel that is is appropriate to make people wait this long?
Tom
#05732
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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 04 May 2003 04:34:32 +0000
From: "D F" <funkstuf@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuel system Help
I bought a car like this.
You will have to clean out the fuel system first.
Drain the gas, and then get acetone and wipe out the fuel tank.
The boot around the fuel pump is most certainly ruined and will be like
tar.
Replace it. If the car has been started while in this condition, you
will
most likely have to replace the fuel pump, the accumulator, and the fuel
filter. If you are extremely unlucky, you will have to work on the fuel
injection system.
>From: "deloreanz" <deloreanz@xxxxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [DML] Fuel system Help
>Date: Sun, 04 May 2003 03:26:49 -0000
>
>Im looking at a Delorean for sale and the person has had it garaged
>for years and probably has only started it every now and then. What
>steps would I need to take (if I bought it) to ensure that the fuel
>does not wreck the engine with impurities from sitting a long time?
>Just change the hoses associated with the fuel system? Thank you so
>much for any feedback.
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