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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Removing crankshaft pully nut
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Brake fluid
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
3. RE: STILL running a little rich...??
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. RE: New Delorean Body Kit
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. RE: STILL running a little rich...??
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Re: Front Rotor Replacement
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
7. Re: STILL running a little rich...??
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Electrical problem
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Re: Front Rotor Replacement
From: elvisnocita@xxxxxx
10. Re: STILL running a little rich...??
From: "Jake" <jkampho@xxxxxxxx>
11. Battery Light "glowing"
From: Tony Pistachio <TheStash@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Starting from scratch (from "critical engine failure")
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: History's Greatest Blunders and E! Hollywood True Stories
From: "Jake" <jkampho@xxxxxxxx>
14. RE: Re: Front Rotor Replacement
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Re: Front Rotor Replacement
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
16. RE: History's Greatest Blunders and E! Hollywood True Stories
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
17. Delorean Midatlantic Spring Social
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Removing crankshaft pully nut
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Re: Front Rotor Replacement
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: Brake fluid
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
21. Re: Re: STILL running a little rich...??
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
22. Re: Removing crankshaft pully nut
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Re: Removing Crankshaft Pulley Nut
From: heningerandassoc@xxxxxxx
24. Re: Battery Light "glowing"
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Car needed for event near Austin, Texas
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 01:59:01 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Removing crankshaft pully nut
Does PRV flywheel have circular cutouts like domestics used to for
draining torque converters? If so, I usually wedge something (like an
old fashioned tire iron) between those and bottom of the car to stop
rotation, then spin nut free with longest possible handle. Remember:
torque increases in some mathematical relationship to handle length.
Nut is a big 'un -- 36 mm.
Bill Robertson
#5939
> That crank
> pulley nut can be a bear to get off too. Feel free to
> email me if you have any other questions.
>
>
>
> =====
> Steve
>
> VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
> www.projectdelorean.com
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo
> http://search.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 21:19:31 -0500
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Brake fluid
Ok i can not find Castrol GT-LMA anywhere near my house, what else can i use in my
system that i can just pour in?
Mark
6683
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 22:08:33 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: STILL running a little rich...??
Andy, I would replace the 02 sensor if it hidden been done lately then re
adjust the air fuel mixture screw or 02 screw in front of the fuel
distributor and it should be fine. Oh! I would up the idle to 950 instead of
750. That is to low. If you find someone with a CIS fuel pressure tester,
Yes it would be nice to do. Check System, control and standing.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx [mailto:Soma576@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2003 6:36 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] STILL running a little rich...??
List,
well i wound up getting my timing checked and my timing was off by 6
degrees.
as soon as that was adjusted, my car has ceased idleing erratically when
warm. now i have NO complaints with driveability!!! finally after 3 years
everything seems to be working beautifully... the car starts up immediately
every time, hot or cold, surges for about a minute or so when cold at
leisurely cycle until it finds the 'sweet spot' and idles at around 750
smooth as can be, and it doesn't fluctuate from that no matter how long i
drive the car.
my only complaints NOW are:
1. i'm barely getting 12 mpg in town (mostly on city streets, not much
highway). i have a manual and i don't abuse it. any ideas?
2. when i start the car cold in the morning and don't let it warm up, the
car
starts to sputter around 2500-3000 RPM no matter what gear you are in. this
continues for only 2 or 3 blocks. extremely short lived problem, but
happens
almost every time. why?
3. when i start the car cold, it still smells kinda rich, but not nearly as
bad as it did when the timing was off. is this normal or should i not be
able to smell the exhaust? once the car is warm, the exhaust is almost
non-existant.
as suggested in previous posts, i have checked all vacuum lines - good.
throttle - good. three brass screws - seated. cold start valve does NOT
leak when warm. vacuum is present at the proper places when hot/cold, and
not
present when it shouldn't be. timing? good now (set to factory specs). ALL
ignition parts are about a year old.
here are a couple things to consider - i have a cat eliminator pipe, accell
performance coil, K&N air filter. might make a difference?
the only thing i haven't done that i can think of is get the fuel/air
mixture
professionally checked. there are no shops in my area that have the
equipment. is this the final task?
any other ideas are greatly appreciated. i'm getting very close to wrapping
this up!
Andy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 21:31:42 -0500
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: New Delorean Body Kit
nice, not too different. Let us know when it is for sale.
:)
Would it add any increased airflow through the radiator, over the gas tank,
or into the air box?
-----Original Message-----
From: silverdelorean2002 [mailto:silvercrw646@xxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2003 1:59 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] New Delorean Body Kit
Hey Guys, I have been thinkin about this for a while now and finally
come up with a design. I have been wanting to fabricate a custom
Design Delorean Body Kit. Please take a look at the picture below of
the Lotus Style Design bodyKit that will hopefully be made soon.
Does anyone know any body Kit fabricators who will be able to tackle
this kind of a Job. To me this makes the car look a whole lot more
modern. I know some poeple are against mods. This will be a Bolt On
MOd with no Modifiactions to the body and will bolt on onto factory
holes. ANyone want to help with this project. Oh yea The picture I
used as the backround car is Dan D.s of Delorean Mid atlantic. So
Hope you dont mind i used your pic!
http://www.nagis.net/j_log/dan-side.jpg
Jon
#10103
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 21:46:50 -0500
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: STILL running a little rich...??
>2. when i start the car cold in the morning and don't let it warm up, the
car
>starts to sputter around 2500-3000 RPM no matter what gear you are in.
this
>continues for only 2 or 3 blocks. extremely short lived problem, but
happens
>almost every time. why?
I had that problem and fixed it (mostly) by adjust the hot/air gate in the
intake tubing. That box with the silver hose for the hot air off the
manifold, and the black elbow out of the pontoon.
If you look at the side of the unit, there is a little tab that moves and
indicates if it is allowing "hot" or "cold" air into the intake. Mine was
sending WAY too much hot air and starving it of good burnable air. (I
think).
If you pull the box out you can adjust the wax-filled thermoadjusterthingy
by screwing it in a little more.
YMMV.
-Kevin
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 23:46:43 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Front Rotor Replacement
In a message dated 4/22/03 8:42:56 PM Central Daylight Time,
Delorean17@xxxxxxx writes:
> Is there anything else I can check before replacing the booster? I
> have already installed a new master cylinder, front brake everything, and
> rear pads. Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks
>
> Dave
> 6286-MI
Did you use parts from a D vendor?
Andy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 03:49:37 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: STILL running a little rich...??
Make sure the lambda system is working, the "dwell" should be
fluctuating indicating a working Lambda system and a good O2 sensor.
You could try the "dwell" method of adjusting the mixture screw or go
to a station with an exhaust gas analyzer. Also make sure the idle
system is running by pulling the plug off the idle motor and the
engine should run lousey and die. Gas mileage is affected by a lot
more than just the motor, underinflated tires, slipping clutch,
dragging brakes, alignment, and driving style, all can have a negative
effect on gas mileage. You should also make sure the advance system is
hooked up correctly and working (vacuum and mechanical).
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> List,
>
> well i wound up getting my timing checked and my timing was off by 6
degrees.
> as soon as that was adjusted, my car has ceased idleing erratically
when
> warm. now i have NO complaints with driveability!!! finally after
3 years
> everything seems to be working beautifully... the car starts up
immediately
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 03:59:31 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Electrical problem
Things like that you can't help with the DML. A relay that might
appear to be sticking could really be still getting a little leakage
from an ignition switch that still has a small amount of current
leaking through holding the relay. I only say that if it happens very
irregularly not to tear the car apart. If the car is not driven
regularly the ignition switch could get "dirty". The ignition switch
and the relays work better when used regularly as there is a wiping
action of the contacts removing any surface oxidation. If you have
glitches irregularly then they tend to either go away or get worse the
more you use the car. As you point out the sticking relay wasn't bad,
it just appeared to be because of another problem. It is rare for the
accessory relay to fail but a simple test would be to just switch it
with another relay and see if the trouble moves before replacing the
ignition switch.
David Teitelbaum
vin 107576
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx> wrote:
> Don't you think it'd be an idea to check the accessories relay
first? My
> friend's car suffered from a sticking relay and he's traced it to
> someone one putting a screw through the wiring loom under the centre
> console.
>
> I would consider replacing the ignition barrel as a last resort, once
> everything else is ruled out, esp as they're hard to come by and
expensive.
>
> Martin
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 09:22:15 +0200 (MEST)
From: elvisnocita@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Front Rotor Replacement
Dave,
have you ever had the calipers reworked and the pistons were taken out ?
The cylinder showing to the outer side of the calipers must be bleeded
carefully.
If there's some air inside it won't get out by regular bleeding !
I suggest to take out only the outer brake pad, pump the piston out, push
back in,
put the brake pad back in and bleed again. Now there should be more brake
fluid
in the cylinder and the air will be pushed to the inner cylinder which now
can be bleeded.
Another suggestion is to use a better brand brake pads. 10$ items should be
thrown away...
Hope this helps a bit
Elvis
> Hi List,
> Before work today I had a machine shop press the new bearings into
> the hub for me as I couldnt chance screwing them up. I had the pads,
spring
> pins, anti-squeel shims, calipers and rotors on in about an hour.
> Everything went together well. My squeeky brakes are gone and no more
steering wheel
> vibration when slowing down. Now on to my next problem.
> Ever since I have owned this car the brakes have have taken
> excessive foot presure to slow the car down. I have driven in other D's
and the
> brakes felt much easier than they do in my car. I thought that the brake
booster
> may not be working so I disconnected the vacuum hose(plugged it) from it
> but the brakes were a lot worse. So I know the booster is working, but
maybe
> not at 100%. Is there anything else I can check before replacing the
booster? I
> have already installed a new master cylinder, front brake everything, and
> rear pads. Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks
>
> Dave
> 6286-MI
--
+++ GMX - Mail, Messaging & more http://www.gmx.net +++
Bitte lächeln! Fotogalerie online mit GMX ohne eigene Homepage!
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 07:44:17 -0500
From: "Jake" <jkampho@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: STILL running a little rich...??
Andy,
This was the exact same symptom on 6683 (was Rich's, now Mark's). Provided
the CPR is functioning properly, it might be the mixture. Turns out, it was
just flooding a bit at start-up. I'll bet if you rev the engine up past
that "choking point" and hold it for a few seconds, the problem will go
away faster. After Marty backed the mixture off a bit, the problem went
away.
I'll let Marty or Rich jump in here. Will you at the Midwest Connection
tech day this year? --I'm sure there's a place near there that could
analyze the mixture.
Something to consider, anyway.
Jake Kamphoefner
<snip>
> my only complaints NOW are:
> 1. i'm barely getting 12 mpg in town (mostly on city streets, not much
> highway). i have a manual and i don't abuse it. any ideas?
> 2. when i start the car cold in the morning and don't let it warm up, the
car
> starts to sputter around 2500-3000 RPM no matter what gear you are in.
this
> continues for only 2 or 3 blocks. extremely short lived problem, but
happens
> almost every time. why?
> 3. when i start the car cold, it still smells kinda rich, but not nearly
as
> bad as it did when the timing was off. is this normal or should i not be
> able to smell the exhaust? once the car is warm, the exhaust is almost
> non-existant.
>
> as suggested in previous posts, i have checked all vacuum lines - good.
> throttle - good. three brass screws - seated. cold start valve does NOT
> leak when warm. vacuum is present at the proper places when hot/cold, and
not
> present when it shouldn't be. timing? good now (set to factory specs).
ALL
> ignition parts are about a year old.
>
> here are a couple things to consider - i have a cat eliminator pipe,
accell
> performance coil, K&N air filter. might make a difference?
>
> the only thing i haven't done that i can think of is get the fuel/air
mixture
> professionally checked. there are no shops in my area that have the
> equipment. is this the final task?
<snip>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 06:56:33 -0400
From: Tony Pistachio <TheStash@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Battery Light "glowing"
Hi all,
I tried searching for this in the archives but got so many hits containing anything with the words light or battery my head was spinning.
Suddenly I realized my battery light was dimly lit while driving. Not sure how long because I only drive it on bright sunny days and the light is hidden behind the steering wheel. It comes on brightly with the engine off and the ignition on as it should. However just barely glows at an idle and gets brighter as you rev the engine. I checked as many connections as I could get to - battery, relays, fuses etc. all are tight and no changes while jiggling the wires. A volt meter across the battery reads 13.5 while the engine is running so I'm not too worried because it's charging the battery. There are virtually no add-ons like alarms or radio etc.
Any suggestions? The book points to Alternator or regulator. Oh, and the belt is tight.
Thanks for your help,
Tony Pistachio
#10781 STSSTEEL
Wappingers Falls, NY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 12:53:45 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Starting from scratch (from "critical engine failure")
For those of you who remember that article... Based on all the advice
I've received, I'm operating on the assumption that I've blown a head
gasket. (Coolant mixed with oil & a vacuum leak that I can't find).
People told me to find the source of the leaking fluid mix. I've
removed the intake, and crawled all over the engine. No fluid is
leaking from the head/block mating surfaces, dipstick tube, oil pan
plug or gasket. The source appears to be from the rear crank seal,
but I haven't split the engine from the transmission to check yet.
I am also operating on the advice that these blocks very rarely
crack. This engine only has 22K on it, and it sat for many years so I
believe it. I intend to yank the engine and just rebuild it. I am on
a budget however. I intend to get the engine recondition kit #102565
from delorean.com, bearings and rings. Since the miles are low I'm
not going to do the chains and sprockets.
My question: Are there any other "must have" items that aren't in
that kit, that I need before I start this?
Thanks.
Rich
#5335-MD
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 08:05:37 -0500
From: "Jake" <jkampho@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: History's Greatest Blunders and E! Hollywood True Stories
Kevin Abato was nice enough to provide a copy of the History Channel
episode:
http://www.abato.net/dmcvideo.htm
Domo arigato, Kevin Abato.
----- Original Message -----
From: "deloreanz" <deloreanz@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2003 12:32 AM
Subject: [DML] History's Greatest Blunders and E! Hollywood True Stories
> Does anyone know where to download these episodes? I basically want
<snip>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 09:08:20 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Front Rotor Replacement
He's got a valid point here. It sounds like a master cylinder problem. Just
because you replaced it that doesn't necessarily mean that the new one
doesn't have a problem. My neighbor went through 3 master cylinders in one
day on his Tahoe before he got one that was good.
If you're unsure, a good garage should be able to test it and verify that
it's good.
>
>
> Did you use parts from a D vendor?
>
> Andy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 09:48:25 -0400
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Front Rotor Replacement
Yes, all parts were from PJ Grady
Dave
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 09:27:55 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: History's Greatest Blunders and E! Hollywood True Stories
Trust me.... The "Domo Arigato" joke is about as original as "Where's
your flux capacitor!?" ;)
-----Original Message-----
From: Jake [mailto:jkampho@xxxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2003 9:06 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] History's Greatest Blunders and E! Hollywood True
Stories
Kevin Abato was nice enough to provide a copy of the History Channel
episode:
http://www.abato.net/dmcvideo.htm
Domo arigato, Kevin Abato.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 15:56:46 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean Midatlantic Spring Social
Well April 26-27 is fast approching. Unfortunatly right now so is a
weather front! This event is going on rain or shine, there is no rain
date and I couldn't forcast the weather for this weekend 6 months in
advance! I am hoping the weathermen will get it wrong or at least it
won't be a complete soaker. Fred Dellis, our guest speaker is still on
as is Rob Grady and the Spring Tour on Sunday. Even if you can't make
it on Saturday try for Sunday as right now the prediction is for a
nice day Sunday! You will be missing out on the tech session, free
door adjustments, and the guest speaker but I know many won't drive in
the rain. Over a dozen people have made reservations at the Marriott
and I know of about 12 local owners that have said they are comming so
if the weather is good we should have a large turn-out! Don't forget
to bring a family band radio with fresh batteries for Sunday for the
Tour. It is going to the 2nd largest shopping Mall in the country,
the Palisades Mall. Customer Service said they will have courtesy bags
for our group to pick-up. In addition to the many stores and movie
theaters there is also an I-Max theatre, restaurants, food court,
rides, and an arcade. On Saturday we will be parking in the diner's
parking lot so it is a short walk to the diner for breakfast or lunch
and snacks. The main street in Westwood has a lot of little shops for
the "significant others" so they can walk 2 blocks to all of the
stores while the tech session is going on. If you have any last minute
parts requests from P J Grady and the parts are small they can bring
them for you saving shipping and tax. Just call ahead so they can make
arrangements.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 17:38:08 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Removing crankshaft pully nut
There's a really simple tool available to lock the flywheel in place,
though you may find that putting it in 5th and having someone stand on
the brakes will be good enough
BTW DON'T put loctite on it when replacing as it says in the manual,
you'll never get it off again!
Martin
content22207 wrote:
>Does PRV flywheel have circular cutouts like domestics used to for
>draining torque converters? If so, I usually wedge something (like an
>old fashioned tire iron) between those and bottom of the car to stop
>rotation, then spin nut free with longest possible handle. Remember:
>torque increases in some mathematical relationship to handle length.
>Nut is a big 'un -- 36 mm.
>
>Bill Robertson
>#5939
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 08:50:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Front Rotor Replacement
Dave & others
I recently experienced something similar. When I'd
apply the brakes, I got the normal vacuum boost but
when I hit them a second time, I had no vacuum boost
at all. It turned out that the vaccuum hose had a
"pinch or kink" in it. While over time vacuum would
build up, but it would take some time. The net result
was that most of the time I had no vacuum boost.
Replaced the kinked hose and all is now fine.
Dick Ryan
VIN 16867
--- Delorean17@xxxxxxx wrote:
> Hi List,
> Before work today I had a machine shop press
> the new bearings into the
> hub for me as I couldnt chance screwing them up. I
> had the pads, spring
> pins, anti-squeel shims, calipers and rotors on in
> about an hour. Everything
> went together well. My squeeky brakes are gone and
> no more steering wheel
> vibration when slowing down. Now on to my next
> problem.
> Ever since I have owned this car the brakes
> have have taken excessive
> foot presure to slow the car down. I have driven in
> other D's and the brakes
> felt much easier than they do in my car. I thought
> that the brake booster
> may not be working so I disconnected the vacuum
> hose(plugged it) from it but
> the brakes were a lot worse. So I know the booster
> is working, but maybe not
> at 100%.
> Is there anything else I can check before
> replacing the booster? I
> have already installed a new master cylinder, front
> brake everything, and
> rear pads. Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks
>
> Dave
> 6286-MI
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo
http://search.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 11:26:53 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Brake fluid
In a message dated 4/23/03 8:07:53 AM Central Daylight Time,
ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx writes:
>
> Ok i can not find Castrol GT-LMA anywhere near my house, what else can i
> use in my
> system that i can just pour in?
>
> Mark
> 6683
>
Nothing. i put regular old Carquest dot 4 in and it totalled my master
cylinder. there is NO substitute - the warnings are real!
pegasusautoracing.com carries it and you will get it in about 2-3 days.
don't be tempted to just 'top it off'!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Andy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 11:23:01 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: STILL running a little rich...??
In a message dated 4/23/03 8:11:09 AM Central Daylight Time,
jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> Make sure the lambda system is working, the "dwell" should be
> fluctuating indicating a working Lambda system and a good O2 sensor.
> You could try the "dwell" method of adjusting the mixture screw or go
> to a station with an exhaust gas analyzer. Also make sure the idle
> system is running by pulling the plug off the idle motor and the
> engine should run lousey and die. Gas mileage is affected by a lot
> more than just the motor, underinflated tires, slipping clutch,
> dragging brakes, alignment, and driving style, all can have a negative
> effect on gas mileage. You should also make sure the advance system is
> hooked up correctly and working (vacuum and mechanical).
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
David and others,
since i don't have access to an exhaust analyzer for CIS, can you explain
exactly how to infer the CO ratio from the dwell reading? please explain
hook-up procedure and operations so that i can see if it makes a difference.
what are the proper readings? i am positive that the advance is working
correctly. idle system is ok too - the engine stops when you remove the plug
from the idle motor. i also have all linkage adjusted correctly and the idle
speed switch is confirmed operational.
Andy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 14:29:18 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Removing crankshaft pully nut
Wedging a tire iron against the flex plate and the torque converter
isn't a good idea. You could bend the plate and that will cause severe
vibrations. A better way is to put a wrench on the nut and smack the
wrench with a hammer or if you can get straight at the nut an air
impact wrench is the best method.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx> wrote:
> Does PRV flywheel have circular cutouts like domestics used to for
> draining torque converters? If so, I usually wedge something (like an
> old fashioned tire iron) between those and bottom of the car to stop
> rotation, then spin nut free with longest possible handle. Remember:
> torque increases in some mathematical relationship to handle length.
> Nut is a big 'un -- 36 mm.
>
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
>
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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 11:00:05 EDT
From: heningerandassoc@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Removing Crankshaft Pulley Nut
To Service Timing Chain:
Remove muffler and with a 1/2" impact wrench ,a 12" extension bar ,an angle
drive and a shallow 35 or 36 mm socket, assess the pulley from beneath the
facia. Rotate pulley keyway to 12' o'clock before removing pulley. Remove
timing cover and adjust chain as per manual direction ( see below ).Removing
the pulley nut will require 120# psi air pressure and several cycles of air
tank pressure.Stay with the effort as it will come off. Replace the nut with
the same pressure and hold for 20 seconds to tighten.In the event a shallow
socket cannot be located, cutoff a long socket leaving 1/2" surface .
Recommened reference: Volvo , 740 and 760, 1982-88, Automotive Repair Manual
by Haynes # 97040 ; available at Autozone.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 14:35:05 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Battery Light "glowing"
Check all of the wiring and connections. Have the battery tested.
Check that the belt to the alternator isn't slipping. If the light is
still on pull the alternator and have it bench tested. I am guessing
you have a couple of blown diodes inside and or a faulty regulator. If
you have bad diodes continuing to run the alternator imposes an
alternating current on the battery and it will die, batteries hate AC.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Tony Pistachio <TheStash@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi all,
> I tried searching for this in the archives but got so many hits
containing anything with the words light or battery my head was spinning.
>
> Suddenly I realized my battery light was dimly lit while driving.
Not sure how long because I only drive it on bright sunny days and the
light is hidden behind the steering wheel. It comes on brightly with
the engine off and the ignition on as it should. However just barely
glows at an idle and gets brighter as you rev the engine. I checked as
many connections as I could get to - battery, relays, fuses etc. all
are tight and no changes while jiggling the wires. A volt meter across
the battery reads 13.5 while the engine is running so I'm not too
worried because it's charging the battery. There are virtually no
add-ons like alarms or radio etc.
> Any suggestions? The book points to Alternator or regulator. Oh, and
the belt is tight.
> Thanks for your help,
> Tony Pistachio
> #10781 STSSTEEL
> Wappingers Falls, NY
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 12:05:58 -0500
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Car needed for event near Austin, Texas
A Special Olympics event in Fredericksburg, Texas (approx 1 hr west of
Austin) on Friday, May 2 is looking for a DeLorean for a static display from
7pm to 11pm that evening. There is no cash compensation offered due to the
nature of the event, but the organizers are offering accomodations at their
bed and breakfast in town.
Contact me via email at james (at) usadmc.com for details.
Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.
James Espey
NOTE OUR NEW ADDRESS/PHONE NUMBERS
DeLorean Motor Company
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396
281/441-2537 Voice
281/441-2813 Fax
800/USA-DMC1
http://www.delorean.com
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