To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 19 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Possible stolen D's
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: twin turbo air scoops may be available
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Re: Cooling Fan Failure.
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
4. Spare tie down.
From: "Jerry Condray" <genghis@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. RE: twin turbo air scoops may be available
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>
6. window motor cleaning
From: "checksix3" <jetjock11@xxxxxxxx>
7. Re: RE: Toby TABs
From: Stephen Jarvis <jarvist@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: misaligned door
From: Gus Schlachter <gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. DeLorean Mobile Home?
From: "Stragand, Dave" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Cooling Fan Failure.
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
11. Re: misaligned door
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Temperature Gauge Wires?
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-@xxxxxxx>
13. Re: Master Brake Cylinder & ...
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Possible stolen D's
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
15. Re: misaligned door
From: "Eric Itzel" <eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: DeLorean Mobile Home?
From: "v_davidj" <v-davidj@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: twin turbo air scoops may be available
From: "silverdelorean2002" <silvercrw646@xxxxxx>
18. Alabama owner needed for local sports promo
From: "Stephen Clark" <stephen@xxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Re: Master Brake Cylinder & ...
From: Steve Deichman <swdeichman@xxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Fri, 07 Mar 2003 09:40:56 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Possible stolen D's
John, this is exciting stuff. Police actually doing their job, rather
than writing speeding tickets.
IF they are not stolen, these might be 2 good project cars.
IF you could work out a deal with the police and get them real cheap
that would be a great thing.
Keep us informed what you find out and what happens.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Fri, 07 Mar 2003 09:53:55 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: twin turbo air scoops may be available
Casey,
Do you have a picture of the scoops?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2003 10:53:31 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Cooling Fan Failure.
Be careful spraying cleaner inside the case of the motor. This will wash out
any grease that is left in the bearing causing earlier failure. The proper
way to repair them is to take them apart and replace the brushes, clean them
and re grease the bearings with the proper grease. WD40 or wheel bearing
won't work. It has to be a High and low temp light grease that will stay in
the bearing.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
<< > Of course as luck would have it while checking on
> the repair, I found out that one of my fan motors is not working.
It turns
> freely and has voltage at its connector. Are there any known
failure modes
> or repair tricks you could share with me?
I have the same problem with my fans. If I drive thru standing water,
it will splash up and gum up the brushes inside. A fix that will work
is electric motor cleaner. Shove the little straw inside the drain
hole on the bottom of the casing, and spray away. Just make sure that
you wear protective eyewear when doing this.
>>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2003 10:11:18 -0600
From: "Jerry Condray" <genghis@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Spare tie down.
What is the function of the snap closed loop on the spare tiedown rubber
strap? I've seen no illustration of it's use!
Thanks, Jerry Condray
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2003 10:21:34 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: twin turbo air scoops may be available
Casey,
Do you have any photo's of what the scoops will look like?
What Color will they be?
Scott Mueller
002981
RNDOLA
-----Original Message-----
From: C. C. Cameron Putsch [mailto:putsch.1@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, March 07, 2003 2:44 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] twin turbo air scoops may be available
Hello everyone. It has been a while since I have last had anything to sell,
but I wanted to see if people are interested in getting plastic molded air
scoops, just like what were on the factory twin turbo car. They will fit
nicely and I estimate the cost for a pair will be $30-$50. They will attach
with very strong body sidemolding tape to the window so no clamps or
drilling is needed and can be installed in like 5 minutes, just clean the
surface and stick them on. They will follow the contour of the window and
not be mounted to the stainless. They are not ready just yet, but if there
is enough interest it will be a motivating factor. If enough people wanted
them they could be ready as early as the end of March
Sincerely, Casey at putsch.1@xxxxxxx www.formulabuckeyes.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at
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Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Fri, 07 Mar 2003 17:49:57 -0000
From: "checksix3" <jetjock11@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: window motor cleaning
Raine, the secret is to service the entire assembly, including the
motor. Assumimg you have no parts broken, contact me for a procedure
that will make your regulators work very smoothly and last a long
time.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Fri, 07 Mar 2003 13:39:46 -0700
From: Stephen Jarvis <jarvist@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: RE: Toby TABs
I've been out of touch for a month and it appears that I missed the boat on
the new Toby TAB order. Is there anyone out there who ordered extra and
would be willing to sell a set? Any parts dealers?
If so, you can email me privately at jarvist@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Steve Jarvis
#3542
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Fri, 07 Mar 2003 14:21:59 -0600
From: Gus Schlachter <gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: misaligned door
Eric,
Ack! If you're fortunate enough to have doors that close properly LEAVE THEM ALONE.
At the factory, the doors were fitted first and then the remaining panels were hung for the correct fit. If there is a gap, you'll need to move the panels (and probably end up going all the way around the car, lol).
However, the gap you're seeing sounds like it's all at the T-Panel, which is notorious for being misaligned. It was installed over foam that deteriorates over time. The T-Panel can be R&R'd with relative ease but I have never done it
myself. Check the archives, as this has come up repeatedly over the years.
Gus Schlachter
VIN #4695
Austin, TX
eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> Hi Everybody
>
> My drivers door seems a bit misaligned. It opens and closes without any problem, but when it is shut I can see some of the lift strut if I stand behind the car. The back inside corner of the door slightly rubs against the T-panel as well.
>
> It looks like a door adjustment is needed, but where do I start?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2003 15:31:57 -0500
From: "Stragand, Dave" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean Mobile Home?
Hi All,
Has anyone ever heard of a DeLorean motor home, called (coincidentally
enough) a "Vixen"? Here's what the owner had to say:
http://www.team.net/html_arc/shop-talk/200301/msg00125.html
> From my understanding, that's a Vixen. It's a really unique motorhome
> built by Delorean shortly before he was shipped off to jail. Very few
> of them were ever built, and they aren't quite production quality (at
> least this one isn't), but they're very interesting cars in their own
> right. Powered by a BMW turbodiesel mounted in the rear. The owner
> gets something like 25mpg on the highway in that thing.
>
> The top pops up a'la dormobile.
There are three pictures posted up at
http://nbccwi.com/pics/index.cgi/vixen
To me it looks like a combination of the "EM-50 Urban Assault Vehicle"
from the movie "Stripes" and the "Big Jim Sports Camper" I had when I
was 4.
Of course I'm familair with the DMC-80 bus project, but did they venture
off into other industrial chassis as well?
-Dave
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Fri, 07 Mar 2003 22:08:11 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Cooling Fan Failure.
The OEM fans will wear the brushes out prematurely due to the way
they are designed to turn on and off. The brushes just wear down to
the point where they no longer touch the armature. I have had them
apart numerous times. The brushes use to be readily available but I
have long since lost the details. That is because after I wired the
fans to run all the time when the AC was on, they never went bad
again. These fans are DC motor and they will run cooler and the
brushes will last longer if they just stay running once they are
started. I did this on three different DeLoreans I owned when I
lived in Houston. In Houston I figure I had the AC on 11 months out
of the year. On 2 5 speed cars the Temp needle never moved from the
warmed-up position. On the auto, on really hot days (over 90
degrees), when I am really working the torque converter, I could see
the needle move up some just into the fan run zone. I have driven in
100+ degree weather with the AC on at 75 mph and the needle stays in
the run zone on the auto. In the 5 speed it did not seem to matter
what the temp was, the needle never moved. That is with an OEM
radiator. My point? The fans should be wired to run all the time
with the AC on in my opinion. It is so much easier on the fan motors
and the car runs cooler. Of course, you have to do relay thing.
Don't leave that oem fan fail module in there, it is junk.
BTW, John Hervey, www.specialtauto.com has the parts and rebuilds
the OEM fans. Price seems good too.
Harold McElraft - 3354
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Sat, 08 Mar 2003 04:03:29 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: misaligned door
The car is set up around the doors meaning you adjust the doors and
then adjust the other panels to fit. What this means is you should try
adjusting the "Tee" roof panel and NOT the door. If you can see the
lift strut you might need a new outer seal. To adjust the "Tee" panel
I would first remove it and inspect the center top area for water
damage. Use a new piece of foam in the front center, straighten out
the tabs on the back edge and reinstall trying to center the panel
left to right. Be careful of all of the sharp edges of the S/S and be
real careful with the rear plastic valence, it can crack easily if you
force it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, <eric@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi Everybody
>
> My drivers door seems a bit misaligned. It opens and closes without
any problem, but when it is shut I can see some of the lift strut if I
stand behind the car. The back inside corner of the door slightly rubs
against the T-panel as well.
>
> It looks like a door adjustment is needed, but where do I start?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Eric Itzel
> vin #4433
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Sat, 08 Mar 2003 03:22:33 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Temperature Gauge Wires?
Anyone know where the connecter is for the temperature gauge? Since I
put the car's frame back on, everything works but the temp gauge. I am
sure it is on the engine somewhere I just don't know where. I also
have 2 connectors which are free, one is the oval type on the rear
main harness which is white plastic, black and red wires. The other is
right on the top front of the engine, there are 2 green wires and 2
black, also the connecter is half black half white. I have the white
side, but not the black hooked up, I don't see anything to hook to
either this or the other connecter with the red and black wires. If
anyone can help me I would be really thankful. Dan Benedek
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Sat, 08 Mar 2003 04:12:30 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Master Brake Cylinder & ...
The most common cause of cooling fan motor failure is worn brushes.
The first sign may be intermittant operation. Cleaner sometimes helps
temporaraly. Tapping on the side with a small hammer may also help.
The only "fix" is replacement or at least opening the motor and
replacing the worn brushes. Recomend doing both as they both have the
same run time unless one was ever changed. Contact John Harvey, I
think he rebuilds them and get a price. Check the epoxy in the area
the brake fluid (AKA paint remover) soaked it. It causes the epoxy to
soften and loose it's adhesion to the metal. Even though it drys and
rehardens it is no longer attached to the metal and should be cracked
off and the metal repainted to prevent moisture from rusting the metal
underneath.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, doctordhd@xxxx wrote:
> Many thanks to all those who volunteered their helpful ideas and
information
> about the master brake cylinder. The repair has been performed with a
> remanufactured unit purchased at a local auto supply for $95.50. It
is an
> A-1 Cardone unit, part #11-2329 and corresponded to a 1982 Saab 900,
as many
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 00:30:10 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Possible stolen D's
Possible stolen, I contacted the Department of Public Safety office this
morning ( Friday ) and he and I are going to do more investigating to see if
the registration is actually to the person in Far North Dallas or what's
going on. I'll will keep the DML posted. It sure makes me feel better that
the police watch my house every day and count the cars out side. I have two
out there and I told the officer he is welcome to coffee and donuts when he
comes by and both are not there to let me know.
Group, You have to understand one thing, I live in Forney, Texas 20 MI east
of Dallas in a town of 6000 people. Two D's in this town is something to talk
about. Most people don't even know my name, they know me and Donna my wife as
the DE Loren's people. I really don't care as long as they know us.
I like small towns.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
<< John, this is exciting stuff. Police actually doing their job, rather
than writing speeding tickets.
IF they are not stolen, these might be 2 good project cars.
IF you could work out a deal with the police and get them real cheap
that would be a great thing.
Keep us informed what you find out and what happens.
>>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 00:40:25 -0500
From: "Eric Itzel" <eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: misaligned door
After reading this post and already knowing that trading a small annoying
problem for a big problem is no good trade (learned that the hard way), what
issues am I looking at if I just leave well enough alone? I may attack this
problem when I need to take that area apart for some other reason in the
future. I think the door seals itself fine, but that's just on the grounds
that my hair doesn't feel wind as I'm speeding down the highway.
Cosmetics do not bother me too much, if anyone asks I'll just tell them it
was Guinness day at the factory when they attached my doors..
Thanks for the info everyone,
Eric Itzel
vin 4433
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, March 07, 2003 3:21 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] misaligned door
> Eric,
>
> Ack! If you're fortunate enough to have doors that close properly LEAVE
THEM ALONE.
>
> At the factory, the doors were fitted first and then the remaining panels
were hung for the correct fit. If there is a gap, you'll need to move the
panels (and probably end up going all the way around the car, lol).
>
> However, the gap you're seeing sounds like it's all at the T-Panel, which
is notorious for being misaligned. It was installed over foam that
deteriorates over time. The T-Panel can be R&R'd with relative ease but I
have never done it
> myself. Check the archives, as this has come up repeatedly over the
years.
>
>
> Gus Schlachter
> VIN #4695
> Austin, TX
>
>
> eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>
> > Hi Everybody
> >
> > My drivers door seems a bit misaligned. It opens and closes without any
problem, but when it is shut I can see some of the lift strut if I stand
behind the car. The back inside corner of the door slightly rubs against the
T-panel as well.
> >
> > It looks like a door adjustment is needed, but where do I start?
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Sat, 08 Mar 2003 06:18:40 -0000
From: "v_davidj" <v-davidj@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Mobile Home?
Here is what I found on Vixen Motor Homes...I give you, the Vixen
Motor Home Owner's Association:
"587 Vixens were built by Vixen Motor Co., Pontiac, Michigan,
between 1986 - 1989, when the company closed. Retail $40-$53k. 22-30
mpg. Three models: lift-top BMW diesel motorhomes, Fixed-top BMW
diesel limos with 5 spd manual trans-axle, and high-top GM V6 gas
engine motorhomes with four speed automatic trans-axle."
http://www.agencyrv.com/VOA/VOA.htm
http://www.agencyrv.com/Vixen.HTM
Cheers,
Dave
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Stragand, Dave"
<dave.stragand@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> Has anyone ever heard of a DeLorean motor home, called
(coincidentally
> enough) a "Vixen"? Here's what the owner had to say:
>
> http://www.team.net/html_arc/shop-talk/200301/msg00125.html
>
> > From my understanding, that's a Vixen. It's a really unique
motorhome
> > built by Delorean shortly before he was shipped off to jail.
Very few
> > of them were ever built, and they aren't quite production
quality (at
> > least this one isn't), but they're very interesting cars in
their own
> > right. Powered by a BMW turbodiesel mounted in the rear. The
owner
> > gets something like 25mpg on the highway in that thing.
> >
> > The top pops up a'la dormobile.
>
> There are three pictures posted up at
> http://nbccwi.com/pics/index.cgi/vixen
>
> To me it looks like a combination of the "EM-50 Urban Assault
Vehicle"
> from the movie "Stripes" and the "Big Jim Sports Camper" I had
when I
> was 4.
>
>
> Of course I'm familair with the DMC-80 bus project, but did they
venture
> off into other industrial chassis as well?
>
> -Dave
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Sat, 08 Mar 2003 12:46:20 -0000
From: "silverdelorean2002" <silvercrw646@xxxxxx>
Subject: Re: twin turbo air scoops may be available
I am interested too. Can i see photos? I will buy them in a sec.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Scott Mueller"
<scott.a.mueller@xxxx> wrote:
> Casey,
> Do you have any photo's of what the scoops will look like?
> What Color will they be?
>
> Scott Mueller
> 002981
> RNDOLA
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: C. C. Cameron Putsch [mailto:putsch.1@o...]
> Sent: Friday, March 07, 2003 2:44 AM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] twin turbo air scoops may be available
>
>
> Hello everyone. It has been a while since I have last had anything
to sell,
> but I wanted to see if people are interested in getting plastic
molded air
> scoops, just like what were on the factory twin turbo car. They
will fit
> nicely and I estimate the cost for a pair will be $30-$50. They
will attach
> with very strong body sidemolding tape to the window so no clamps or
> drilling is needed and can be installed in like 5 minutes, just
clean the
> surface and stick them on. They will follow the contour of the
window and
> not be mounted to the stainless. They are not ready just yet, but
if there
> is enough interest it will be a motivating factor. If enough people
wanted
> them they could be ready as early as the end of March
>
> Sincerely, Casey at putsch.1@xxxx www.formulabuckeyes.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please
address:
> moderators@xxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Sat, 08 Mar 2003 12:58:51 -0000
From: "Stephen Clark" <stephen@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Alabama owner needed for local sports promo
Hoping there's some Alabama DeLorean owners who will heed this call.
I've been contacted by NBC 13 out of Birmingham who need a DeLorean
for a closeup shot of various members of the Birmingham Barons
baseball team getting out of a "time machine". The spot would air on
the local news during the sports segment.
Anyone with a DeLorean in the Birmingham area who'd be willing to let
NBC film your car for this spot, please contact me immediately.
Thanks!
Stephen Clark,
BTTF.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 06:31:13 -0800 (PST)
From: Steve Deichman <swdeichman@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Master Brake Cylinder & ...
Does anyone have a source for "reasonable" Brake Calipers?
thanks, steve
David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: The most common cause of cooling fan motor failure is worn brushes.
The first sign may be intermittant operation. Cleaner sometimes helps
temporaraly. Tapping on the side with a small hammer may also help.
The only "fix" is replacement or at least opening the motor and
replacing the worn brushes. Recomend doing both as they both have the
same run time unless one was ever changed. Contact John Harvey, I
think he rebuilds them and get a price. Check the epoxy in the area
the brake fluid (AKA paint remover) soaked it. It causes the epoxy to
soften and loose it's adhesion to the metal. Even though it drys and
rehardens it is no longer attached to the metal and should be cracked
off and the metal repainted to prevent moisture from rusting the metal
underneath.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, doctordhd@xxxx wrote:
> Many thanks to all those who volunteered their helpful ideas and
information
> about the master brake cylinder. The repair has been performed with a
> remanufactured unit purchased at a local auto supply for $95.50. It
is an
> A-1 Cardone unit, part #11-2329 and corresponded to a 1982 Saab 900,
as many
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
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