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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 23 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. I have to SELL DeLorean. Make Offers.
From: "jtipton" <Jtipton@xxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Re: Remotes
From: Phil Priestley <phil@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Fuel System
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Upcoming event in San Diego
From: David Cox <DMCox@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Power Antenna Question
From: "dmc_driver <dmc_driver@xxxxxxxx>" <dmc_driver@xxxxxxxx>
6. another De Lorean finds an owner story
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
7. NEW BTTF Series Premieres March 15!!!
From: Robert Greenhaw <deloreandude@xxxxxxxx>
8. Water Pump
From: "kenndeal <kenndeal@xxxxxxxxx>" <kenndeal@xxxxxxxxx>
9. INformal get-together in South Carolina
From: "Dave Swingle <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Head lamps
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. anyone know a decent alarm
From: "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxxxxx>
12. Re: Keys
From: "Harold McElraft <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
13. Re: Water Pump
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Power Antenna Question
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Remotes
From: "Harold McElraft <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
16. Connectors
From: "drdhdmd <doctordhd@xxxxxxx>" <doctordhd@xxxxxxx>
17. Re: another De Lorean finds an owner story
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
18. Re: NEW BTTF Series Premieres March 15!!!
From: "Brian McCool" <bjmccool@xxxxxxxxx>
19. Front lower control arm inner bushing failure
From: "ksgrimsr <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx>" <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: anyone know a decent alarm
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
21. zilla help!
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: Front lower control arm inner bushing failure
From: "Dave Swingle <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
23. RE: anyone know a decent alarm?
From: "Scott Gardner" <gardners14@xxxxxxx>
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 10:40:28 -0500
From: "jtipton" <Jtipton@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: I have to SELL DeLorean. Make Offers.
Ive got a very nice DeLorean that I've been wrestling with selling or not.
I've listed it before, for its actual value so if it did sell I could feel
better about losing it, but Ive got remodeling that HAS to be done on my
home as well as some other unfinished projects Im wrestling with. So im
going to offer it for sale again on a "make offer" basis.
Please no insane low ball offers. NADA classic car value on the car per
Haggertys is 27,000 -32,000. I had the car appraised for 27,000.
1991 DeLorean.
VIN 1798.
11,300 miles.
Gas Flap Hood.
Black Interior. No tears on blemishes on interior anywhere.
Body is perfect. Only blemish is on the rear louvres which has a small crack
with can be fixed with epoxy.
Car runs and drives great.
Has original tires on it still which ARENT dryrotted or cracked. Wheels are
factory and completely unblemished.
All eletrical is in perfect order.
Door struts work fine.
Comes with Complete Factory DeLorean Repair and parts Manual.
Complete owners manuals
Vehicle Maintenence Schedule Records with checklists marked of schedules
service.
Original Window Sticker
All orignal paperwork including warranty and factory turbo order forms.
Magazine articles from 1981 discussing the car ( were tucked away in owners
manual).
Im no expert but the car looks to be in better shape than most concours
winners Ive seen.
Car was kept in storage bubble and driven periodically. Traded in to Local
Mercedes Dealership and has been cared for during my ownership by a team of
Mechanics at my local VOLVO dealership 3 of which were factory trained DMC
mechanics back in the early 80's at both Cross Motors DMC in Louisville and
at Brown Brothers DMC in Louisville. I have used only DMC factory items such
as the French Replacement oil filters from DMC.
The car, as stated, is in Louisville Kentucky. And is available for
appraisal, test drive, or inspection.
SERIOUS offers only please. Again, Im not keen on selling, but Im afraid I
really do need to let it go. Im willing to go less than what I had
originally wanted, but I wont give it away.
EMAIL ME with offers or comments at this address....please put DELOREAN
PURCHASE in all caps in the subject line so that I'll notice it. I get loads
of email each day.
Thanks for your time and consideration.
Cheers
Jennifer Tipton
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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 09:26:46 -0800
From: Phil Priestley <phil@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Remotes
*This message was transferred with a trial version of CommuniGate(tm) Pro*
Since I bought my car I have been annoyed by the sound of a something
skittering around in the bottom of both doors, so Yesterday I pulled
the doors apart to remove the offending objects. When I got the door
panels off I stared at the mess inside. Someone had hacked and modified
the wiring in an way that I can only assume was to interface with the
alarm that had been installed at one time.
Inside each door I found 3 relays , a flasher module, an electric gear
driven acutator, plus yards of extra wiring. The flashers were wired
into the door light circuit and on the passengers side the connection
tab had rusted off leaving the uninsulated spade connector swinging
free inside the door. Turned out to be the hot wire that was flopping
around in there but luckily had never cause a problem .
I got the rattling screws out of the bottoms of the door,( drivers door
had one of the screws for the window motor , passengers door had one of
the screws for the door pull handle), replaced all the missing screw
and bolts, tightened up everything that was loose, and removed all the
additional wiring and relays, etc. The window motors on both sides were
missing a screw and the two remaining ones were ready to fall out.
I just wanted to share what I found since the topic of undocumented
wiring mods has surfaced latley.
Phil Priestley
vin #2105
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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 20:31:51 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuel System
When cold, a duff control pressure regulator will cause this symptom. If you let it idle
for a couple of minutes, does it still splutter when you tickle the loud pedal?
John hervey has them on his website and they can be rebuilt
Martin
#1458
#4426
"funkstuf " wrote:
> As of today, I am the proud owner of a Delorean.
> It arrived at my house in Washington State from New York.
> Situation: As I knew when I purchased this vehicle. The car starts
> and idles, but, give it gas and it dies.
> Where should I start? What should I do? tell me everything. Thanks
> Dale Funk
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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 16:32:05 -0800 (PST)
From: David Cox <DMCox@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Upcoming event in San Diego
Anyone in or near the San Diego area might be interested in attending the 8th Annual Rolling British Car Day on Saturday, April 19, 2003 (details at http://www.sandiegobritishcarday.org/RBCD2003.html) I went last year, and was the only Delorean, so I would sure love to have some company this year! I've got a couple of probables and a couple of possibles already. If you are interested, please contact me, as I'd like to have us all meet nearby, and arrive together. My e-mail address is <dmcox at delorean.com>
Hope to see a big turnout!
Dave
vin 16367
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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2003 01:08:02 -0000
From: "dmc_driver <dmc_driver@xxxxxxxx>" <dmc_driver@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Power Antenna Question
Hello List,
I noticed today that my power antenna has stopped working. It worked
fine last summer, but the car has been in storage for the winter, so I
just noticed it now. Could anyone tell me where the relay and fuse
for the power antenna are located? The manuals don't seem to show
anything about it. I checked the blade fuses in the relay compartment
under the rear shelf, but they all look fine. The radio itself works
fine as well. It's possible that the antenna motor has gone bad, but
I'd like to check for any fuse/relay or grounding problems first
before replacing the motor. Thanks
Richard
vin# 5853
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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 19:56:23 -0600
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: another De Lorean finds an owner story
I remember back when the De Loreans first came out i was only 10 years old but i still
remember the commercial on tv for the car, though i never saw one in person till i was
16 i fell in love with the car. The way the doors opened, the body lines, the stainless
steel, put it this way the car was cool. When BTTF came out it even made me want the car
more, not because of the movie it was because of the car in the movie.
Two and 1/2 years ago i went on Ebay and was looking for a BTTF movie poster and i saw
the word "De Lorean", it was a actual car for sale. i never thought i could ever afford
one because i always thought they were like $60,000 or something like that. From that
day, two and 1/2 years ago i researched them over and over, i became a member of the
"Delorean Midwest Connection" and met actual owners of De Loreans. my Wife and I
volunteered to do their newsletter because we both loved the car.
I met Rich W. at the first tech session i attended and he was doing a "hover conversion"
(A.K.A. frame swap) on a badly rusted De Lorean that needed lots of help. i talked to
him a little bit about the car and he told me a lot more about the frames on the De
Loreans. The Holiday social for our club back in 2002 i attended and i talked to Rich a
little more about getting a project car from him and he had the perfect car for me, a
1981 De Lorean VIN# 6683 that was an excellent daily driver that needs some cosmetic
work but mechanically sound. I had to rush and sell my 1992 Mustang GT in the middle of
January so i could purchase the car from him because i didn't want to pass up a deal on
the De Lorean he had.
Today February 28th 11:30am Rich W. helped my Wife Melissa and I "Live The Dream". I
would like to thank all of the members of "The De Lorean Midwest Connection" for showing
my Wife and I their cars and spending the time to tell us a little about the De Lorean.
I would like to thank the members of the DML for answering questions i have had about
the car and i especially would like to thank Rich W. for spending the time emailing me
about the car and giving me the chance to Live The Dream.
Thank you all
Mark & Melissa Valuch
VIN# 6683
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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 23:39:38 -0600
From: Robert Greenhaw <deloreandude@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: NEW BTTF Series Premieres March 15!!!
{This is a Special Announcement for All DeLorean/BTTF Fans, not
Intended to Become a Thread. Thank You}
Hey All,
This is SO way past cool....the Fox Box cartoon block has went and
made a NEW BTTF cartoon!!!
Yeah, I know, this may seem off-topic....but it DOES have
a DeLorean in it! :O P
Anyway, here's the email update I get from them:
HOT NEWS!
Buckle up for the ride of your life!
We're traveling back through time—back ... to the future! Don't miss the
all new series premiere of BACK TO THE FUTURE 8:00 am EST, Saturday,
March 15th! Check your local listings!
Tune in for more details this Saturday!
Keep tabs on the site http://www.foxbox.com for updates!
There ya go...and that's that....
I Remain,
Robert G.
deloreandude@xxxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2003 06:00:01 -0000
From: "kenndeal <kenndeal@xxxxxxxxx>" <kenndeal@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Water Pump
Installing a new water pump tomorrow. Any recommendations
on gasket sealers and anti-seize compound for the Delorean?
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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2003 05:30:18 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: INformal get-together in South Carolina
I'm almost hesitant to post this, since the list seems to generate a
huge turnout at any event and that's really not what I'm after. But
here goes.
I'll be visiting family in South Carolina (from Chicago) on Saturday
March 22, and some of the locals and I are going to get together for
an afternoon of door adjustment and swapping war stories about
DeLoreans. The names so far should be recognizeable from the list,
including Bill Robertson, Louie Golden, Travis Goodwin and a couple
of others. For some reason Bill likes the way I adjust doors and
likes to visit, and it turned into a DeLorean Meet. And mine won't
even be there! Location is about an hour west of Greenville SC up in
the foothills. We'll have at least 3-4 DeLoreans there.
Again this is nothing fancy, just a few DMC geeks at my mom's house
for the afternoon. BYOT (bring your own tools).
If anyone else is interested please contact me.
Dave Swingle (swingle(AT)dmcnews.com)
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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 20:41:45 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Head lamps
While we're on the subject of head lamps:
My garage ordered a set of Bosch headlights which on arrival turned out to be for
right-hand-traffic (I'm in England). They are correct for european roads (they have
lenses with a beam-pattern correct for driving on the right), have H4 interchangable
bulbs and are an exact fit and come with the integral "sidelight" which you can use or
not.. They are brand new and boxed. There are 4 pairs available.
Price is £56 per light, which is what they are costing from Bosch. www.dieselcentre.com -
and they take credit card orders and will ship internationally.
Martin
#1458
#4426
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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 12:31:03 -0500
From: "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxxxxx>
Subject: anyone know a decent alarm
Hello all. I was considering installing an alarm in my D. What I wanted was just something so if people are bumping into it and what not it would beep loudly and then go off if people where screwing with it, not those crappy ones that go off for 10 minutes at the drop of a hat. Does anyone have a suggestion?
Sincerely, Casey at putsch.1@xxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2003 17:28:18 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Keys
The X29 key blank works for all ignition keys. Also, a WB2 works for
the door key for two key systems. It is a little tricky to cut
apparently but mine works great. I use the steel keys because they
fit my key chain with less bulk and use the originals for shows,
backup, etc.
Harols McElraft - 3354
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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2003 17:35:21 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Water Pump
If you use a silicone sealer make sure on the tube or the package it
SAYS "sensor safe". If you are not using the silicone hoses behind the
water pump then you have to get the clamps as tight as you can because
you will not be able to get there again to retighten them. You should
also, at the same time, replace the bearings in the idler pulleys, the
belts, and if the car hasn't had a tune-up in a long time replace the
cap, rotor, ignition wires and spark plugs, it's really easy when you
do the water pump. Also as long as you are in there you should be
replacing the seals on the water distribution pipe and any vacuum
hoses that are stiff. Use new copper seals on any fuel lines that you
disconnect.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "kenndeal <kenndeal@xxxx>"
<kenndeal@xxxx> wrote:
> Installing a new water pump tomorrow. Any recommendations
> on gasket sealers and anti-seize compound for the Delorean?
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2003 17:45:28 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Power Antenna Question
The fuse and relay for the antennae is opposite the fuse panel on the
other side behind the driver's seat. It is an in-line fuse and the
relay is a plastic see-through. Generally you won't find a problem
there. The trouble is the plastic drive cable inside the antennae. It
eventually breaks. The fix is (if you are handy) to disassemble the
antennae and replace the mast assembly. You can also just replace the
whole antennae unit but it is more expensive. You get to the antennae
in the left rear pontoon by removing the cover that the hoses going to
the fuel vapor cannister go through. You will also need to remove the
left rear taillight to get to some bolts. You are right about the
documentation, it wasn't updated to reflect the changes between the
81's and 82's especially the wiring diaghrams and the power antennae.
Before removing the antennae apply power directly to either wire going
to the motor, if you can't get it to do anything then you know it has
to come out.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "dmc_driver <dmc_driver@xxxx>"
<dmc_driver@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello List,
>
> I noticed today that my power antenna has stopped working. It worked
> fine last summer, but the car has been in storage for the winter, so I
> just noticed it now. Could anyone tell me where the relay and fuse
> for the power antenna are located? The manuals don't seem to show
> anything about it. I checked the blade fuses in the relay compartment
> under the rear shelf, but they all look fine. The radio itself works
> fine as well. It's possible that the antenna motor has gone bad, but
> I'd like to check for any fuse/relay or grounding problems first
> before replacing the motor. Thanks
>
> Richard
> vin# 5853
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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2003 17:50:29 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Remotes
I have seen few systems today that match the quality and features of
an older Alpine unit I purchased back around 1989. It handles
everything with excellent reliability so far. The one extra thing I
did was use a battery of relays to isolate the unit from any
existing relays and voltage feedback. It is an alarm with window
actuators, door locks, door open sensor, glass break sensor, light
sensor, a louver sensor has been added, it operates the lights and
airhorns with a siren, has an ignition lock-out, key-in-ignition
sensor and can be set for passive or active engagement. I just
recently obtained the gear to install a door launcher that the key
fob will activate and I still have room for a trunk release.
It is so integrated into the car now that I have been keeping an eye
on e-bay for another unit in case I need spare parts. So far so good
though. It is an Alpine 8126.
Harold McElraft - 3354
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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2003 18:49:02 -0000
From: "drdhdmd <doctordhd@xxxxxxx>" <doctordhd@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Connectors
Does anyone know the manufacturer of, or where I could get the type
of connectors that are used on the door lock module?
Thanks in advance,
Dave
6530
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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 14:09:07 EST
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: another De Lorean finds an owner story
Mark,
I know you have been dreaming of DeLoreans jumping fences for quite a while,
and I would like to say congratulations! Welcome to the fold, 100%!
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 18
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 13:26:00 -0600
From: "Brian McCool" <bjmccool@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: NEW BTTF Series Premieres March 15!!!
Here's the actual link to news about the new BTTF cartoon series.
http://www.foxkids.com/emailers/latest.html
The other link takes you to a different website. You were close Robert.
Don't forget it starts March 15.
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Message: 19
Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2003 20:10:40 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx>" <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Front lower control arm inner bushing failure
The front right lower control arm inner bushing failed on my daily
driver yesterday, and I have a couple questions about the setup.
Let me first describe the nature of the failure -- the inner sleeve
of the bushing separated from the vulcanized rubber of the bushing
body resulting in the inner portion of the control arm shifting
across the captured inner bushing sleeve under stress. The resulting
change in front suspension geometry causes alignment to be lost and
can be disconcerting if there is such motion at high-speed.
While replacement is straightforward (although tedious), and I have
had the springs out of the car several times before, I was a bit
puzzled at the setup. With the lower inner control arm bolt torqued
to spec, the inner sleeve of the bushing appears to be pinched and
frozen in place between the frame members it's bolted to. With the
outser sleeve of the bushing pressed into the lower control arm, and
the inner sleeve of the bushing pinched in place, it would appear
that the suspension travel would invariably twist the bushing in a
way that would result in the bushing rubber twisting loose from the
inner sleeve, like the failure on my car.
How is the lower control arm geometry and bushing setup supposed to
work? Is the intent that the vulcanized rubber of the bushing be
pliable enough to accommodate the repeated travel of the suspension?
If that is the intent, then any bushing replacement that uses harder
materials for that portion of the suspension would seem to be
unusable, since the bushing body itself is responsible for
accommodating the twist associated with the full travel of the
suspension.
Since pulling the lower control arms out is not my favorite DeLorean
job (I always get nervous about compressing the springs), I'd like to
do the job right. Unfortunately, the original setup doesn't look at
all to be robust and I'd hate to do all the work to replace the
bushings just to have the fix be short-lived.
Knut
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Message: 20
Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2003 17:16:30 -0600
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: anyone know a decent alarm
alarm zilla!
http://www.deloreanparts.com/zilla_042.htm
mark
vin# 6683
"C. C. Cameron Putsch" wrote:
> Hello all. I was considering installing an alarm in my D. What I wanted was just something so if people are bumping into it and what not it would beep loudly and then go off if people where screwing with it, not those crappy ones that go off for 10 minutes at the drop of a hat. Does anyone have a suggestion?
>
> Sincerely, Casey at putsch.1@xxxxxxx
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Message: 21
Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2003 20:49:22 -0600
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: zilla help!
i just bought vin# 6683 and i have a zilla in my car and i dont know what it is. i know
i have tankzilla but could this be lockzilla. the picture is posted in the photo section
under #6683. also can anybody tell if my relays are original or have been replaced
because i dont know what either looks like, i do know there is no cooling fan fail relay
at all nor is there anything in its place in the relay socket.
mark
vin# 6683
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Message: 22
Date: Sun, 02 Mar 2003 04:40:03 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Front lower control arm inner bushing failure
Hi Knut..
It's a very typical low-end design. Compared to most late-70's
American cars it's extremely ordinary. Except for the stressed
swaybar (nobody does that but Lotus!) it looks very much like a Ford
Pinto. It works exactly as you described.
One key item that many people miss is that the suspension comoponents
must be torqued at the resting position. Put it all together, but
don't torque anything until you have the car sitting on the ground
and have bounced it a few times. If you torque it all up a bad thing
happens - at full compression (hitting a bump in the road) the
bushings are twisted twice as far as designed, and they are always
under stress except when you are cresting a hill. Neither is good for
long life.
So - the fix you do, assuming you just put OEM bushings back in, and
installed them correctly won't be any more short-lived than the ones
you just took out. How miles did they go before failure? It will most
depend on condition of the roads where you drive. There is a lot of
stress on those parts, and I find it amazing that they don't cause
more trouble than they do. On most cars the suspension bushings
outlast the car, they are typically well over 100,000-mile parts.
Dave
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "ksgrimsr <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxx>"
<knut.s.grimsrud@xxxx> wrote:
> The front right lower control arm inner bushing failed on my daily
> driver yesterday, and I have a couple questions about the setup.
>
> Let me first describe the nature of the failure -- the inner sleeve
> of the bushing separated from the vulcanized rubber of the bushing
> body resulting in the inner portion of the control arm shifting
> across the captured inner bushing sleeve under stress. ..
......
>
> How is the lower control arm geometry and bushing setup supposed to
> work? Is the intent that the vulcanized rubber of the bushing be
> pliable enough to accommodate the repeated travel of the
suspension?
....
Unfortunately, the original setup doesn't look at
> all to be robust and I'd hate to do all the work to replace the
> bushings just to have the fix be short-lived.
>
> Knut
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 23:41:35 -0500
From: "Scott Gardner" <gardners14@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: anyone know a decent alarm?
Casey,
What you need is a "dual-stage" shock sensor, and most alarms
have them these days. They provide for a "pre-alarm" chirp in response
to light taps, and a full-on alarm in response to harder impacts. Both
levels of sensitivity are adjustable.
Let me start off by saying that you don't have to be concerned
about finding some special exotic alarm to go with a DeLorean. As far
as alarms are concerned, the DeLorean is just like most other cars out
there--twelve volt, negative ground, with electrically-operated locks.
If you had a six-volt car with positive ground and vacuum-operated
locks, your choices would be more limited and more ingenuity would be
required, but that's not the case here.
That being said, there are four things I would certainly look
for in a potential alarm. Look for one that has a lock/unlock pulse
length of at least one second. That's pretty standard now, but some
older alarms might have a pulse that's too short to adequately active
the solenoids. Also, if you plan to have the alarm flash your parking
lights, look for fused parking light outputs. Without them, a thief can
remove one of your parking light lenses and bulb, stuff some tinfoil in
the socket, and then set off your alarm, shorting out the processor and
disabling the alarm. Lastly, find out if the starter-kill circuit is
"normally-open" or "normally-closed". These is also called
"fail-secure" or "fail-safe". With a normally-open/fail-secure type, if
the alarm brain dies, you won't be able to start the car. With a
normally-closed/fail-safe type, you will still be able to start the car
with a dead alarm brain, but it will be slightly easier for a thief to
steal your car if he can disable/destroy the alarm. You'll have to
decide which is more important to you. Lastly, get an alarm with
"passive arming", which automatically arms the alarm after the last door
is closed. This type is usually required for any kind of insurance
discount. I thought that this was pretty much standard these days, but
I've recently seen some very full-featured alarms that did not passively
arm.
Regarding the brand of alarm, decide first what your needs are.
Do you want two-way paging between the car and your transmitter? Do you
want to remotely-start the vehicle? Want a starter kill? A mechanical
hood lock? How many outputs do you need for things like door
lock/unlock, hood/trunk release, remote door opening, etcetera? How
many and what type of sensors do you want? (Doors, hood, trunk, radar,
microwave, glass-breakage, shock, etcetera)
With alarms, there's a *very* wide spectrum of quality. Also
know that there are relatively few companies actually manufacturing
alarms. Many different brands are just "re-boxed" versions of the same
alarms.
You can't really go wrong with DEI (Clifford, Viper, Python), or
Ungo. Crimestopper is pretty fair overall, but I wouldn't get their
"top-of-the-line" remote starter/pager version, the CS2005FM. They
didn't design that one, it's just another company's alarm that
Crimestopper re-boxed, and after installing several of them, I can tell
you the quality just isn't there.
Stay away from Alphaguards, Sparkomatic, Audiovox (Prestige),
and any alarm that only comes in a "white-box" OEM version. These are
the alarms I mentioned earlier that are all made in the same factory,
then put in white boxes and distributed to two dozen different
"companies" that just put their own labels on the boxes and units.
I know that some people have installed $89 alarms and been very
happy with them for years, but the better alarms are easier to install,
work more reliably, and are easier to have serviced if anything does go
wrong.
Hope this helps,
Scott Gardner
-----Original Message-----
From: C. C. Cameron Putsch [mailto:putsch.1@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2003 12:31 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] anyone know a decent alarm
Hello all. I was considering installing an alarm in my D. What I wanted
was just something so if people are bumping into it and what not it
would beep loudly and then go off if people where screwing with it, not
those crappy ones that go off for 10 minutes at the drop of a hat. Does
anyone have a suggestion?
Sincerely, Casey at putsch.1@xxxxxxx
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