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There are 14 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Radio install question
From: Todd Masinelli <tmasin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Radio install question
From: "theshovel1224" <theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx>
3. RE: Radio install question
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. RE: Re: My Air Conditioning Problem
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Radio install question
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Adapter to connect 1/4" vacuum line to R134 charging hose
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. New guy on the block
From: "dmcboi" <boy1der18@xxxxxxx>
8. in tucson with my D
From: "darkstarmedia" <darkstarmedia@xxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: My Air Conditioning Problem
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. The Time Machine Journal
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. 5541 Running Again! <GRIN> But .. she is still a little sick ....
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. fuel distributor for sale + news...
From: "dmcjohn" <john.dore@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: The Time Machine Journal
From: Robert Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. RE: Radio install question
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 21:29:31 -0500
From: Todd Masinelli <tmasin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Radio install question
> do I need to remove the binnacle to get to/replace
> the front/left speaker?
No, that's not necessary. You can reach it fine from under the dash. Okay,
"fine" is a relative term. It's not fun to get to at all (although on my
car I've had better luck with the driver's side than the passenger side).
Depending on your body size, you might want to remove the driver's seat.
Squeezing your chest between the seat and the steering wheel can be a little
uncomfortable and add to the sense of claustrophobia while your arms are
wrapped around your neck and your head is stuffed up under the dash.
If you're replacing your front speakers, make sure you pay special attention
to the depth of the ring that goes around the speaker's perimiter to protect
the tweeter. I replaced my fronts with Infinity Kappa 32.1cf's and
tightened them up just like the original Craig's had been. Then once the
speakers had been in for a while, I started noticing a faint ring shape
appearing around the grills in my dash. Oops! Fearing this would greatly
increase my chances of a cracked dash, I pulled the speakers out, reshaped
what they call the "mounting ears," put some washers on the posts in the
dash to space things out a bit, and put the speakers back in again. Not
fun. Hopefully you'll only have to go through the process once!
Good luck!
_________________
Todd Masinelli
VIN 6681 (Nov 81)
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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2002 02:30:13 -0000
From: "theshovel1224" <theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Radio install question
If you don't have a power antenna, there should be an open terminal
on the BATT end (end with brown wire connected) of the door lock
circuit breaker. If you do have a power antenna, there will be a
small gauge red wire with a white plastic covered spade connector
on this terminal. Go ahead & move this wire to the AUX end of the
breaker since it only draws a small amount of current when the
antenna moves & it won't really matter which side of the breaker
it's on. Then you can use a spade terminal to connect your power
wire to the free terminal.
Door Lock Circuit Breaker
Amp power wire here
Small gauge red wire for
Brown wire -------- power antenna
------------------|BATT|-------------------------
| |
Move small red | |
wire her | AUX |---------------
---------Large gauge redwire
for lock solenoid power
I also replaced my front speakers. Fun fun if you like laying upside
down for an hour straight. I did not remove my binnacle. I think
you do have to pull the flexible tube supplying air to the door vents
though.
John Yeoman
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Hank Eskin" <henry@xxxx> wrote:
>
> Hello All,
>
> I just got my Alpine CDA-7894 head unit to install, and due to the
> "V-drive" internal amp, it requires a direct connection to the
battery, or
> some suitable high-current draw positive power source. Besides
connecting
> directly to the battery, can anyone suggest an equivalent
connection point
> in the electrical panel/fuse area? And don't worry, the lead
already has an
> in-line 20A fuse.
>
> Also, do I need to remove the binnacle to get to/replace the
front/left
> speaker?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Hank Eskin #1619
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 22:38:47 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Radio install question
If it is REALY high power (50+ watts) then you should connect it to the battery with the fuse as close to the battery as possible.
You can replace the dash speakers by just reaching up in there. No need to remove anything.
-----Original Message-----
From: Hank Eskin [mailto:henry@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2002 6:01 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Radio install question
Hello All,
I just got my Alpine CDA-7894 head unit to install, and due to the
"V-drive" internal amp, it requires a direct connection to the battery, or
some suitable high-current draw positive power source. Besides connecting
directly to the battery, can anyone suggest an equivalent connection point
in the electrical panel/fuse area? And don't worry, the lead already has an
in-line 20A fuse.
Also, do I need to remove the binnacle to get to/replace the front/left
speaker?
Thanks,
-Hank Eskin #1619
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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 22:40:52 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: My Air Conditioning Problem
Are you sure about this? The switch on the condenser coil I believe to be a HIGH pressure switch (only on the later cars). The low pressure switch is always in the dryer canister.
-----Original Message-----
From: jtrealtywebspannet [mailto:jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2002 4:09 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: My Air Conditioning Problem
The low pressure switch is usually alongside the front right wheel but
on some cars it is behind the front left wheel on the condensor coil.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2002 03:40:01 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Radio install question
A quick and "dirty" way to hook the radio up directly to the battery
is to pull the fuse for the radio (#11). With a test light determine
which side is the feed. Stick a wire with a spade terminal into the
other, add an inline fuse and snake it through the compartment into
the battery. I did this so when I shut the master switch off on my car
the radio doesn't lose the time and the presets.
You don't need to remove the binnacle to reach the front left
speaker, just patience. I find the best way to get into that area is
to sit in the seat upside down with my head under the dash and my feet
above the seatback. It helps to have an assistant to get the things
you need or drop while you are in this position. Try not to drop the
little nuts and washers into your face.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Hank Eskin" <henry@xxxx> wrote:
>
> Hello All,
>
> I just got my Alpine CDA-7894 head unit to install, and due to the
> "V-drive" internal amp, it requires a direct connection to the
battery, or
> some suitable high-current draw positive power source. Besides
connecting
> directly to the battery, can anyone suggest an equivalent connection
point
> in the electrical panel/fuse area? And don't worry, the lead
already has an
> in-line 20A fuse.
>
> Also, do I need to remove the binnacle to get to/replace the
front/left
> speaker?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Hank Eskin #1619
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2002 03:41:25 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Adapter to connect 1/4" vacuum line to R134 charging hose
While at Autozone tonight I looked up parts I used to make an adapter
to connect 1/4" vacuum line to a R134 charging hose (to vacuum my A/C
systems):
#323080 male M12 to female 1/4 NPT
#323317 male 1/4 NPT to 1/4 hose barb
Assuming you live near an Autozone...
Re: low pressure cutoff switch thread -- of course it is located on
low side of orifice tube (passenger side of car).
To everyone who eMailed me Re: A/C -- remember to jump the compressor
when flushing and charging. The low pressure cutoff switch won't
engage the clutch otherwise. Don't jump it when vacuuming.
If anyone's interested, my D is no longer constipated. Replaced
EVERYTHING from the fuel filter forward tonight. And I now have a
proper Bosch fuel pump w/ check valve (no more hot start issues!).
Bill Robertson
#5939
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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2002 05:11:53 -0000
From: "dmcboi" <boy1der18@xxxxxxx>
Subject: New guy on the block
There's a new service center popping up....check it out.
www.d-a-r-t.com
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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2002 05:50:56 -0000
From: "darkstarmedia" <darkstarmedia@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: in tucson with my D
I am in tucson with my D till Tuesday, is there any get togethers
from now till then??
Darkstar
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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2002 13:52:06 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: My Air Conditioning Problem
I never worked on a Delorean with the switch on the left side, only
seeing it. It would make sense that it is only a high pressure cut-off
as that is all that is on that side of the condenser coil. My point in
bringing up about the switch on the left side is that it too could
cause short cycling but in it's case cycling on HIGH pressure which is
caused by too much freon or air in the system or the electic cooling
fans not working. I don't think that it is adjustable but I don't know
not having actually worked on a car with it. Again the only way to
properly work on the A/C system is to have a gauge set hooked up so
you can observe the system pressures and then know what is going on
inside. BTW when converting to a different freon the high pressure
switch may no longer be calibrated properly, most substitutes condense
at higher pressures than R-12 so that may be the cause of the short
cycling. Another reason to try to stay with R-12 or a drop-in
replacement.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxx> wrote:
> Are you sure about this? The switch on the condenser coil I believe
to be a HIGH pressure switch (only on the later cars). The low
pressure switch is always in the dryer canister.
>
>
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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 09:02:14 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: The Time Machine Journal
Just dropping a note to give an update on the progress.
My Mr. Fusion has generated some excitement and can be built for less than
what a Krups Coffina may cost you on Ebay.
http://tg.vantagep.com/temp/index.php
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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 02:48:22 -0400
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 5541 Running Again! <GRIN> But .. she is still a little sick ....
Hey List .. thanks so much to all for your help!
5541 is running again ..
she was timed to retarded and fuel mixture was lean
but she is working now .. driveable at least!
One problem I am noticing though is . she idles around 1500- 900 rpm
And the power gauge is low
When idleling, she has stalled twice in the past 2 days
And when driving.. once warmed up . she will "buck" for use of a better
word
Hesitate, or seem like a loss of fuel .
Could this be a vacuum leak? Fuel problem? Or perhaps the clutch not
catching properly?
My guess is on the vacuum leak .. since she has stalled while idling..
When she was apart the vacuum lines from the thermal vacuum valve were
mixed up and connected incorrectly
Could this have damaged the valve causing this problem I am having now?
I figured I would pop the question on the list and see what you all
think
Thanks
Kenneth
5541
PS! I am organizing a meet of all Ontario DeLoreans for the first week
of October. so far we have 5 confirmed and 4more expected if anybody on
the list is in / around Ontario drop me a email ken@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
and let me know if you are interested in metting up with us!
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2002 14:49:57 -0000
From: "dmcjohn" <john.dore@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: fuel distributor for sale + news...
Hi guys,
My friend Declan is selling a fuel distributor along with intake
manifold and cold start valve (basically the top of a DeLorean
engine) and other bits and pieces still attached. The fuel
distributor can be hard to find and often very expensive so I wanted
to let you guys know if anybody was currently looking for these
parts. Check out the auction at
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&item=1856396285
In other news, my DeLorean (VIN #3810) is sitting in the New Jersey
docks, awaiting shipment to the port of Cork, Ireland on September
11th. I'll be picking it up in Cork around the 25th of September. I
really hope it doesn't pick up any damage on the way, fingers and
toes crossed.
Its funny, my DeLorean was built on the 15th of September 1981, so
its 21st birthday is coming up. What better way to celebrate it than
bringing it home to the country of its birth!
I've had the time of my life out here in Boston for the past 8
months "living the dream" with my DeLorean. I managed to exactly
double the mileage since new in those 6 months of ownership - when I
got the car it had 12,000 miles, and now reads over 24,000. What an
incredible car! Hopefully some of us New England owners will be
meeting up tomorrow in the ABC (Atlantic Beach Club) in Newport, RI.
Pity I don't have my own car for the event, oh well. Anyway enjoy
driving your DeLoreans, and drive them as much as possible, thats
what they were built for, and of course it is very good for the
marque to be seen driving around by the public!
Best wishes,
John Dore, Boston, going home in 8 days (just for 1 year) to
Ireland...
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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 06 Sep 2002 09:58:13 -0500
From: Robert Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: The Time Machine Journal
Nice job. Lots of modeling talent there.
BOB
Travis Goodwin wrote:
>Just dropping a note to give an update on the progress.
>
>My Mr. Fusion has generated some excitement and can be built for less than
>what a Krups Coffina may cost you on Ebay.
>
>http://tg.vantagep.com/temp/index.php
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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 12:44:33 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Radio install question
Yeah...and it is REALLY fun to reach up there! ;)
-----Original Message-----
From: Marc A. Levy [mailto:malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2002 10:39 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [DML] Radio install question
If it is REALY high power (50+ watts) then you should connect it to the
battery with the fuse as close to the battery as possible.
You can replace the dash speakers by just reaching up in there. No need
to remove anything.
-----Original Message-----
From: Hank Eskin [mailto:henry@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2002 6:01 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Radio install question
Hello All,
I just got my Alpine CDA-7894 head unit to install, and due to the
"V-drive" internal amp, it requires a direct connection to the battery,
or some suitable high-current draw positive power source. Besides
connecting directly to the battery, can anyone suggest an equivalent
connection point in the electrical panel/fuse area? And don't worry,
the lead already has an in-line 20A fuse.
To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
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