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There are 4 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Original Finish?
From: fjk143@xxxxxxx
2. key codes for ignition?
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: I also need tire help.
From: "dmc6960" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
4. Re: brake runout specs (revisited)
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 08:44:55 -0500
From: fjk143@xxxxxxx
Subject: Original Finish?
What was the original finish on the upper and lower A-arms?
f
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 08:05:35 -0600
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: key codes for ignition?
I removed my ignition switch last night and found two sets of numbers
stamped on the casing. One 6 digit number on the collar piece and a 3
digit
number on the switch casing. Is it possible the 6 digit number is a lock
code? it doesn't seem likely since it was on the collar and not the lock
side, but thought I'd check. I could use a new legit key since my original
is worn so that it doesn't copy well.
2nd part... how many digits are the keycodes found under the headliners?
How
do the headliners come out?
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 14:04:57 -0000
From: "dmc6960" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: I also need tire help.
I was the one who mentioned the Avids. They have the correct rear
size tire, but not front size tire. However, since I only needed
rear tires, it wasn't much of a problem. Keep in mind though, that
mismatching tire makes/brands is generally a bad idea. Those letter
ratings are speed ratings the tire can safely handle for 6 hours or
so under ideal conditions. The Avids I got are T rated, which is 118
mph. Performance wise, I can't really comment on them yet. I only
had my car out for 600 miles this past 4 days untill the snow fell
again here in MN yesterday. But I did notice they are definately
better than the Goodyear GT+4's that were on there before. Good luck
with your search.
Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Adam Price" <acprice1@xxxx> wrote:
>
> I am also searching for tires. The Yokohama AVS Intermediates are
out of
> production but you maybe able to find them still. I went to les
schwab and
> they printed out a list of tires sized for the delorean. There were
a few
> more Yokohama types that would fit, one of them called Yokohama
Avids...
>
> I would also like some advice about this. Is it alright to use any
tires as
> long as they fit? They have to be able to support a certain amount
of
> weight, right? The les schwab people were trying to sell me pontiac
tires..
> Does anyone know what the lettered ratings for tires are, the V, H,
S, T, Q,
> R, W, etc..?
>
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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 15:09:42 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: brake runout specs (revisited)
If you aren't getting any pedal pulsation, pulling when you apply
brakes, or shimmy in the steering wheel when using the brakes, or
brake squeal, leave the brakes alone. Do inspect the pads for
thickness and the rotors for any gouges but runnout is only checked if
there is a complaint of pulsation in either the pedal or the steering
wheel on braking. Runnout cannot be eliminated so the pins that hold
the rotors will take up a small amount allowing the calipers to
"float" absorbing minor amounts of runout. Runnout and parellelism is
best checked off the car to eliminate measuring any play in the
bearings of the car. Cutting the rotors is done way too casually by
too many shops. Not only does it reduce the life of the rotor by
cutting it unnessaceraly but it can introduce stresses which can cause
the rotor to warp. When changing pads on disk brakes it is not
required to "cut" the rotors. What is required is to present a fresh
surface to the new pads so they can "seat in". That is done with a
drill and a small disk attachment using #80 paper and using a circular
motion so there is no tendancy to "thread" or have the pads move like
the needle on a record player where they move up and down causing a
clicking noise.
Some things are best left alone. I heard of someone who used to check
every bolt on his motorcycle once a week. After a couple of months
they all started breaking off. It seems he gave each one just a little
bit of a turn to make sure it was tight. Instead of working on the
brakes I would concentrate on finding the clunking noise, check the
trailing arm bolts and spacers again.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> I've heard some bad clunking noises long enough under my car, so I
did a
> complete inspection of every suspension component and found no
problems. I
> suppose I have some loose body bolts, but I'm not ready to take the
rear
> fascia off to tighten them. Anyway, while I had the car up in the
air with
> the wheels off, I decided to check my rotor runout since I told
y'all that
> I'd eventually get back to you about it. My front cross-drilled
rotors had
> no runout that I could measure, but the rear ones are a different
story.
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