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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Asbestos heat shield & vibration
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Road Noise - the "hole"
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
3. Re: Asbestos heat shield & vibration
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
4. Re: How do you keep your engine clean???
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
5. The Resurrection of Vixen Continues... And Crunch Time Begins
From: "Stragand, Dave" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: noise
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Re: Swapping PRV engine for Chevy or Ford small block
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Engine Numbers
From: "Darren Cunningham" <darren.cunningham@xxxxxxxxxx>
9. First day with the new wheels....
From: "tp8534" <mpolans@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Rear View Mirror (WAS: The Resurrection of Vixen...)
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. RE: Re: Re: Swapping PRV engine for Chevy or Ford small block
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Road Noise - the "hole"
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. RE: Engine Numbers
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: The "hole"
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Rear View Mirror (WAS: The Resurrection of Vixen...)
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Engine Numbers
From: "Darren Cunningham" <darren.cunningham@xxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: recommended coolant - dex-cool?
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
18. Re: alignment
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
19. Re: recommended coolant - dex-cool?
From: "David Jacobs (Dell Computers)" <v-davidj@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Frame numbers (was Engine Numbers)
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
21. paying less for quality stuff
From: "checksix3" <checksix3@xxxxxxxx>
22. American Express Gold Catalogue WANTED
From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
23. RE: heat soak
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. RE: Frame numbers (was Engine Numbers)
From: greglinstad <greglinstad@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Nasty gauges
From: "A.H. MacIntosh & Co." <dmc12@xxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 1
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 14:43:12 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Asbestos heat shield & vibration
I replaced my heat shield with a non-asbestoes replacement from P.J.
Grady. It is easy to do just try not to make too much dust and put the
old one into a plastic bag, label as containing asbestoes, and dispose
of properly. The only complaint with the replacement was that it
emmitted an odor for a while until it all burnt out. It looks exactly
like the origional. (I don't think it can have a large affect on
overheating the motor.)
The temp problem sounds normal, what you are seeing is "heat soak".
The vibration problem sounds like the service center you went to
didn't know what they are doing. It should be easy to eliminate a
vibration problem if they know how to use a dynamic wheel balancer.
Let us know how you did your wheel bearing repack, I for one would
really be interested in the procedure!
Sources of vibration include any rotating part that is not balanced
or is bent, or is missing pieces. Don't confuse alignment with
balancing, a car out of alignment won't usually have a vibration and a
car with a vibration doesn't usually need an alignment. A quick and
dirty way to see if you have a bent rim is to raise the wheel and
position a pointer against the outer edge of the rim. Rotate the tire
slowly and the distance from the pointer to the rim should stay the
same. Inspect the tires, run your hand over the sides and the tread
looking for any lumps and bumps, of course have the correct air
pressures in the tires. Generally when you have an out of balance tire
the vibration is noticeable only at a particular speed, a vibration
that gets worse as speed increases usually means something is bent.
Worn tie rod ends will make things seem worse so check them too.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "aaron_t_graham" <aaron_t_graham@xxxx> wrote:
>
> My Delorean is running noticeably hotter than usual. The coolant
> system works great; I spent several hundred $ making sure of that.
> One thing that I did notice is that the engine will often be much
> hotter *after* I leave it off for a few minutes (e.g., to get gas).
> Then, when I crank the engine, the indicator rises almost to the 220
> mark, the cooling fans come on, and it promptly cools down.
>
> One cause for this may be the asbestos heat shield. Mine is
starting
> to break up, and I would like to get it replaced. I noticed that
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 11:24:35 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Road Noise - the "hole"
There appears to be some confusion on this item. I believe Martin is
describing the gearshifter assembly access hole located directly below the
shifter boot. The opening you pointed out at PM 8/7/5 is the fuel
accumulator fuel line access hole; which one are we talking about.
DMC Joe
Memphis Updates: http://www.geocities.com/dmcjoe/home.html
Tech Information, DMC Joe Help Club, & Store
See You In Memphis!
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 2:36 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Road Noise - the "hole"
> HI all
>
> If you look in the parts manual at 8:7:5 Frame/Body General interior trim
> The top picture clearly shows this access hole......
>
> My car however does not have it....Vin #6463
>
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 11:49:09 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Asbestos heat shield & vibration
You said:
"One thing that I did notice is that the engine will often be much
> hotter *after* I leave it off for a few minutes ..."
This condition, known as "heat soak", is caused when the engine is stopped
and engine temperatures increase because coolant is no longer transferring
heat away form the engine block. This should not be of concern as long as
upon re-starting the engine the cooling fans turn on and quickly bring the
temperature down to normal.
You also said:
"One cause for this may be the asbestos heat shield".
Negative; even a completely missing heatshield will have no effect on engine
cooling.
Finally concerning your vibration problem. Try taking your car to a facility
that can do an "on the car spin balance" alignment procedure. Most chain
operations like Pep Boys, Firestone, etc. are not equipped to perform this
type of alignment. The "on the car spin balance" alignment procedure is
much more precise than the off the car balance procedure. Not many alignment
shops are equipped for this procedure. Look for a shop that specializes in
performance or race car alignments.
DMC Joe
Memphis Updates: http://www.geocities.com/dmcjoe/home.html
Tech Information, DMC Joe Help Club, & Store
See You In Memphis!
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 12:36:00 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: How do you keep your engine clean???
In a message dated 6/2/02 10:12:08 AM Central Daylight Time,
foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> Where did you get your engine steamcleaned? No one will do it in NJ for
> fear of EPA guidelines.
>
> Joseph
Joseph,
i had the engine steamcleaned at an auto auction broker. the place was
called Tri-State Auction. they clean cars that have been repossessed or
whatever and then sell them on the block. i heard of them from a customer at
work. they only charged $65 and did a hell of a job. i don't see why
steamcleaning is such a big deal. all the dealerships do it before they sell
a used car too!
as for water entering the plug wells, i cautioned the guy about it and he
understood the problem. also my ignition wires were only about a month old.
no problems!
good luck,
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 13:34:10 -0400
From: "Stragand, Dave" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues... And Crunch Time Begins
Hi All,
Yes, yes, yes... going insane... quite so... There are now a little over 7 days to go before we leave for Memphis. That's at max 60 work-hours for me to finish the car.
Things are going fairly well, but not fantastically. The windshield is now installed, the rear fascia is on, and overall the car looks complete on the outside, albeit it still needs rebrushed.
I had scheduled an appointment for an alignment yesterday morning, so rather hesitantly I drove the car down the extremely steep hill to the closest mechanic. There was a loud rhythmic clunking from the back that was new, but I couldn't identify it. Anyway, when the technician went to pull the car in onto the rack, it would not start. There was no fuel pressure. It turns out the culprit was the connector in the very front corner near the windshield wiper fluid resevoir. Cleaned that up, and it started just fine. Watching the technician drive away, I realized the clunking was coming from the wobbling rear wheel (forgot to tighten the lugs -- d'oh! -- too many long nights spent in the garage).
Okay... so the car is on the rack. The toe-out on the front was about 3" total. Hmmm... So as usual, doing it "by eye" didn't work very well. Good thing I scheduled an alignment, eh? The rear wasn't too bad, but the camber was way off. I have the adjustable lower control arms, so he was able to dial that in nicely. Oh, by the way... The DMC was in the alignment system's computer -- it was a new model Hunter. It even had the correct specs (in inches not mm though) and showed that front caster/camber were not adjustable. Not too bad... somneone got it right for a change.
The idle is smoothing out quite a bit, but I've found the frequency valve has been cutting in and out steadily... about 3 seconds on, and 3 seconds off. Something in the lambda system methinks... but I'll work on that.
I purchased a rearview mirror with the compass and temperature in it and will wire that in tonight. I've been warned against gluing the DMC mirror to the glass because of breakage. What about a GM-style mount though? Any fears there? Should I mount the GM button with the mounting pad Houston provided with my windshield? Any fears about cracking due to the increased weight? Someone has warned me that was a possibility.
Anyway, most of the carpet is now in, and the majority of the interior is installed. Still have to recover the headliner & install the new seat skins, which I'll work on while it rains here tonight. As soon as the weather dries up a bit, I have to hit the road as much as I can. I've now put 2.1 miles on the car, and want to put on about 500 more before we leave for Memphis... wish me luck!
"The engine rumbles smooth and deep, but I have promises to keep, and miles to go before I sleep, and miles to go before I sleep."
-Dave Stragand
VIN #05927
http://www.ProjectVixen.com/ (just updated by the way through mid-May.)
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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 11:34:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: noise
I had the same problem. You need to make sure you have all of the brake
hardware. The rear pads have these little anti-rattle clips. After I
installed them, the clicking went away. Call your favourite vendor and ask
for the rear brake hardware.
-Christian
On Tue, 4 Jun 2002, checksix3 wrote:
> Hi Folks,
>
> I have a clicking noise thats is vehicle (not engine) speed dependent
> coming from the left rear wheel. The slightest application of brake
> stops it. I've had the wheel off and found nothing obvious. A search
> of the archives shows someone had exactly this problem in 1996 but I
> never found how he resolved it. Any ideas?
>
> Gary
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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 19:19:51 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Swapping PRV engine for Chevy or Ford small block
Replies starting to trickle in (thanks folks, you're more helpful
than people in the AMC world, if that's a compliment) ...
Am not worried about tune-up, am worried about system putting me to
walking. Have read horror stories of cars cutting off inexplicably,
not restarting under myriad of conditions, etc (I've never had a
carbureted vehicle fail (suddenly) from fuel delivery or ignition).
Are these tales atypical or is this probable in a 20 year old stock
DeLorean.
I understand general risk of wandering from original, but in my
circumstance might actually be beneficial. I'm a lesser shade tree
mechanic in a land of major shade tree mechanics. Is best not to take
something too exotic to Billy Bob's Tractor & Combine Repair.
Seriously: I'm considering re-engined car for survival, not
performance. Do not have resources, knowledge, etc that you find in
the metropolitan areas. Someone (myself included) could unwittingly
end up making a sick car worse. Why push water uphill -- we know
Chevy's & Fords.
If it helps, I'd like to keep everything outside the engine
compartment original.
Bill.
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxx> wrote:
> You'll get a good number of replies about the engine swap with
> more info than I could possibly provide. So I'll leave that one
> alone. However, don't be intimidated by the K-Jetronic fuel
> injection system. Even though you may need certain tools to tune
> it, it's really not difficult at all. For the most part, the only
place that
> you really "tune" it is the mixture screw on top. Other than that,
> you just have to replace parts that troubleshooting may
> determine defective if there is a problem.
>
> If you are absolutely bent on a carb setup for the PRV, it is
> possible. It won't be cheap, nor easy. It is possible, but I
wouldn't
> reccomend it.
>
> I either case, when you keep your car stock, you keep the
> knowlege and support for it. When you start to modify things, you
> may be on your own...
>
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx> wrote:
> > Am not DeLorean owner yet -- just shopping & researching.
> >
> > Have seen cars on Web re-engined with carbureted American
> small
> > blocks. Is much more up my alley than fuel injected foreign
> plant.
> <SNIP>
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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 20:43:56 +0100
From: "Darren Cunningham" <darren.cunningham@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Engine Numbers
Does anybody know how engine numbers were allocated - was it just random and
it depended on which engine was nearest :-). Or did they go up sequentially
as cars were produced. What number did they start at and were they allocated
by DeLorean or by Renault??
Thanks everyone
Darren
12180
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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 20:15:17 -0000
From: "tp8534" <mpolans@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: First day with the new wheels....
Hey all!
Well let's see now, I've had my car here in AZ for 24 hours, 6
min....ok, you know who you are....:) Anyway, I wanted to post a
little about my car and how it is.
I am talking about VIN #16816, a 1983 two-tone 5-speed. You can
see a few pictures in the "People's Cars" section. It has the Island
twin turbo kit, 16X7 front and 17X7 Team Loco 7-spoke wheels, and a
teal Dakota Digital Dash. This car has been with Rob Grady for a
while waiting for the makeover. Rob replaced all bushings and the
trailing arm bolts, full brake system, full coolant system,
miscellaneous other goodies, and did the digital dash install complete
with wiring schematic should I want to revert back to the analog
setup-NEVER.
I cannot convey in words how pleased I am with the quality of
work from Rob and his people! It was worth every day waiting for that
"Your car is done" call! The car performs flawlessly. It handles
very nice with positive feel in the steering. It goes wherever I
point it. There is no thunking from the rear (there was when I bought
the car). Because of AZ laws, Rob had to install custom catalytic
converts and basically design an exhaust system for me. I chose to
forgo mufflers at the last minute and run cats with tips out back.
Under boost it really sings low and raspy! Driving conservatively
you'd never know something special lurked out back. The car is as
happy running A/C in 100 degree AZ traffic (about 210 degrees) as it
is cruising down the highway with the windows open at 105 MPH (207
degrees). It was so nice to see 3 digits appear on the digital
speedo....:)
I understand why Rob has a waiting list: the work performed at
his shop is fantastic! I would encourage anyone who has the time to
wait in line to have their major work done at P.J. Grady. I am
completely satisfied with everything Rob did and the car was delivered
to me with everything in working order. I came in right at my
estimate too so I feel pretty lucky....:)
I trust this car enough to take it across Texas next week and
head to Memphis. I am looking forward to meeting all of you that are
going. If you would like to see the digital dash in operation please
come on over to my car sometime in Memphis and I will fire it up for
you. Dakota Digital has offered me a discount if I can confirm some
orders and I would pass that discount off to you in full if you are
interested. They want only 20 orders to offer it as a kit instead of
a custom one-off (or two-off in our case). This lowers it by about $400.
Ok, this is getting Walt-like in length so I'll cut off. When
you are this happy and passionate about your car you just want to
share all you can! Keep posting Walt, I'll keep reading....:)
Matthew
VIN #16816
VIN #10365
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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 16:15:23 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Rear View Mirror (WAS: The Resurrection of Vixen...)
I have always wondered what is the *correct* way to mount even the stock mirror to the windshield. I tried double stick tape, but it did not last long before the mirror fell.
Some kind of special tape to use?
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Stragand, Dave [mailto:dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 1:34 PM
> To: DMC News (E-mail)
> Subject: [DML] The Resurrection of Vixen Continues... And Crunch Time
> Begins
>
>
> Hi All,
><SNIP>
>
> I purchased a rearview mirror with the compass and
> temperature in it and will wire that in tonight. I've been
> warned against gluing the DMC mirror to the glass because of
> breakage. What about a GM-style mount though? Any fears
> there? Should I mount the GM button with the mounting pad
> Houston provided with my windshield? Any fears about
> cracking due to the increased weight? Someone has warned me
> that was a possibility.
<SNIP>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 16:21:56 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Re: Swapping PRV engine for Chevy or Ford small block
If your goal in engine swapping to reliability, stick with stock. Find yourself a good import mechanic. Check your area for people familiar with Volvo, Volkswagen, or Porsche. They should be able to help you with most problems.
I am not sure where you are, but you also have the option of having the car transported to one of the well knows DMC service centers. You can also do all the work yourself (with assistance from the professionals, and list members).
My recommendation is to purchase a car with a known history. Someone active in your local club, or the DML. You could also call some of the service centers and see if they have any cars (or customers with cars) for sale.
A properly cared for DeLorean should be quite reliable. If anything, the engine will be the least of your problems.
... and this is coming from a guy who is currently working on a conversion! But I want MORE POWER <grunt grunt grunt>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 3:20 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Re: Re: Swapping PRV engine for Chevy or Ford
> small block
>
><SNIP>
> Seriously: I'm considering re-engined car for survival, not
> performance. Do not have resources, knowledge, etc that you find in
> the metropolitan areas. Someone (myself included) could unwittingly
> end up making a sick car worse. Why push water uphill -- we know
> Chevy's & Fords.
>
><SNIP>
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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 21:33:48 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Road Noise - the "hole"
Hi Joe
I knew about the gear shift grommet, and that I didn't have one, but I was curous as to
why the accumulator access hole only exists on about 1/3rd of cars (hasty statistic based
on replies to my post), irrespective of Vin #. It is responsible for quite a bit of noise
in my car.
Martin
#1458
DMC Joe wrote:
> There appears to be some confusion on this item. I believe Martin is
> describing the gearshifter assembly access hole located directly below the
> shifter boot. The opening you pointed out at PM 8/7/5 is the fuel
> accumulator fuel line access hole; which one are we talking about.
>
> DMC Joe
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 16:31:05 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Engine Numbers
This discussion has come up before, and last time it came up in a direct discussion with a fellow DMC owner the thought was that a more accurate number of "DeLoreans Build" could be assumes based on the engine serial numbers.
The engines were delivered to DMC as assembled units from Renault, so I would assume Renault put the numbers on the engines. The question is, did Renault assign unique numbers to engines going to DMC (as opposed to other cars) and were the consecutive?
At a small car show last year I took note of 4 DeLoreans at the show and their engine serial numbers. I found no direct correlation although it seemed that the engine number was in the range of the VIN. (higher VIN's had higher engine numbers)
It would be nice to collect some more data on this. Maybe the DOD/Production Chronology (http://www.dmcnews.com/faq/n_chron.htm) can be modified to contain this data. Heck we could also include frame numbers too.
If you will be in Memphis, this will be a good opportunity to do some research yourself.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Darren Cunningham [mailto:darren.cunningham@xxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 3:44 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Engine Numbers
>
>
> Does anybody know how engine numbers were allocated - was it
> just random and
> it depended on which engine was nearest :-). Or did they go
> up sequentially
> as cars were produced. What number did they start at and were
> they allocated
> by DeLorean or by Renault??
>
> Thanks everyone
> Darren
> 12180
>
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 21:40:28 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: The "hole"
OK let's put this to bed now. Dave Stragand kindly sent me a photo of Vixen's "hole", and it's exactly the same as mine (even has the same crappy foam in it). You can see the rearmost end of it by
lifting up the change tray at the back of the centre console. Some cars have it and some don't, apparently irrespective of vin#.
I've put the photo in my "picklejar" here.
http://www.cix.co.uk/~mgutkowski/hole.jpg
Martin
#1458
"Marc A. Levy" wrote:
> Driving #1860 around today with no center console installed, there are 2 very small holes where the fuel lines pass through. I would not call the access holes, I cant fit my hand though them.
>
> Also look at the parts manual 2:1:0, I'd like to see a photo of a car without these holes... how do the lines pass though the body to get to the accumulator?
>
> Paul, your #6463. I wonder if this was a change that was made in late 81?? Next time I have the console out of #6068 I'll check that one too.
>
> Or, maybe the confusion is what each of us are looking for?
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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 22:06:58 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rear View Mirror (WAS: The Resurrection of Vixen...)
This would seem to be another "european quirk". Lots of cars over here have rear view mirrors mounted to the windscreen. The special sticky pads are available at any petrol
station or Halfords or equivalent. Usually they cost about a quid for two. Shall I buy a load and bring them to Memphis?
NB they're NOT standard double sided tape.
Martin
#1458
"Marc A. Levy" wrote:
> I have always wondered what is the *correct* way to mount even the stock mirror to the windshield. I tried double stick tape, but it did not last long before the mirror fell.
>
> Some kind of special tape to use?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 22:11:02 +0100
From: "Darren Cunningham" <darren.cunningham@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Engine Numbers
> This discussion has come up before, . . . The question is, did
Renault assign unique numbers to engines going to DMC (as opposed to other
cars) and were the consecutive?
>
. . >
> It would be nice to collect some more data on this. Maybe the
DOD/Production Chronology (http://www.dmcnews.com/faq/n_chron.htm) can be
modified to contain this data. Heck we could also include frame numbers
too.
>
> If you will be in Memphis, this will be a good opportunity to do some
research yourself.
>
Unfortunatly, I can't make Memphis :-( . I had a look through the archives
and saw that a discusssion like this had come up before but nothing was ever
decided on... I'm asking because my car has engine 000000579 and vin 12180
(may 82) and I was just looking for some more info on it as I've heard that
the factory RHD's (of which mine is) have very early bodies and I was
wondering if the engines were also early. You mention frame numbers - where
can this be found on the car and would this also be a more reliable dating
method than the VIN's??
Many thanks
Darren
12180
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 17:15:45 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: recommended coolant - dex-cool?
One of the nice things about the DeLorean cooling system is that it needs no
exotic coolant. Any brand name ethylene glycol anti freeze coolant will do
the job. The only advantage with Dex-cool is its mileage claim 150,000.
DMC Joe
Memphis Updates: http://www.geocities.com/dmcjoe/home.html
Tech Information, DMC Joe Help Club, & Store
See You In Memphis!
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 10:49 PM
Subject: [DML] recommended coolant - dex-cool?
>
> Any recommendations for coolant? I'm going to be flushing my cooling
system
> tomorrow, and a friend recommended refilling with Dex-Cool by Havoline.
Any
> comments? Thanks,
>
> -Hank #1619
>
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 17:27:51 EDT
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: alignment
Hi List,
I took my car back to have the front wheels realigned again. This time
with the correct specs. They set the toe setting to "0" the first time and
the manual states that it should be 1/2 degree. They said that 1/2 degree
isn't enough to make any difference and would not realign it for me. The guy
was pretty snotty about it and it ticked me off. I sent them a letter asking
for a refund as they were unable to properly align the car. Should I worry
about the toe being at "0" degrees? I will call around and try to find a
shop that works on sports cars. let me know
Thanks
David
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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 15:26:05 -0700
From: "David Jacobs (Dell Computers)" <v-davidj@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: recommended coolant - dex-cool?
I found this article to be very informative with regards to coolants. Or at least it gets you thinking.
http://www.caranddriver.com/xp/Caranddriver/columns/2002/june/200206_columns_bedard.xml
Hope this helps.
Dave
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxx <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/post?protectID=114232219058193198015098031056129090177230> >
Date: Tue Jun 4, 2002 9:15 pm
Subject: Re: [DML] recommended coolant - dex-cool?
One of the nice things about the DeLorean cooling system is that it needs no
exotic coolant. Any brand name ethylene glycol anti freeze coolant will do
the job. The only advantage with Dex-cool is its mileage claim 150,000.
DMC Joe
Memphis Updates: http://www.geocities.com/dmcjoe/home.html
Tech Information, DMC Joe Help Club, & Store
See You In Memphis!
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxx <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/post?protectID=180056066163082116015171163064247253018105196234043099252150141050004> >
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/post?protectID=114232219185056086090218164140244063078210042051017133250150166091061> >
Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 10:49 PM
Subject: [DML] recommended coolant - dex-cool?
>
> Any recommendations for coolant? I'm going to be flushing my cooling
system
> tomorrow, and a friend recommended refilling with Dex-Cool by Havoline.
Any
> comments? Thanks,
>
> -Hank #1619
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 17:57:36 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Frame numbers (was Engine Numbers)
This is a similar topic, and peaked my curiosity when I found it;
Are the frames numbered? I found a "757" welded on the frame on the side
of the engine compartment. I figured this was either a frame number or a
leftover part from a Boeing. With my car, it's anyone's guess.
Speaking of which, where can I get a heli-coil? I've contacted lockheed
martin and northrup grumman but keep getting the run-around. Thanks
Jim
1537
On Tue, 4 Jun 2002 20:43:56 +0100 "Darren Cunningham"
<darren.cunningham@xxxxxxxxxx> writes:
> Does anybody know how engine numbers were allocated - was it just
> random and
> it depended on which engine was nearest :-). Or did they go up
> sequentially
> as cars were produced.
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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 00:05:05 -0000
From: "checksix3" <checksix3@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: paying less for quality stuff
First off, let me say that I'm all for supporting the parts vendors
for parts truly specific to the car. However, I'm stunned at the
prices being charged for commonly availible items.
An example is $30 for 6 inches of silicone hose and 4 clamps.
While the quality is very good (top notch in fact), as a frequent
buyer of aviation stuff I'm appalled at the markup. Understand that
airplane parts are not cheap, so it has to be pretty bad to surprise
me when I see generic car parts this high. I hate to step on anyone's
toes about this but when one owns aircraft one gets a little
sensitive about "paying" too much for common stuff. (I won't say
being ripped off, but thats what often happens.)
While I support the vendors for specific parts (and will continue to
do so), I think its important to realize the same quality can be had
elsewhere for much less when dealing with generic parts. An example
is McMaster Carr (www.macmaster.com). You can't get a catalog unless
you have a business, but they sell retail on the Internet. McMaster
can be a gold mine of quality stuff if you must know what to look for.
An example: Search on "silicone hose" and look at silicone heater and
coolant hose. This is very high quality hose (and not cheap) but
identical to what others are selling for much more. Same with hose
clamps. The SS smooth bore, rolled edged, or constant torque clamps
are high quality and, other than true aviation clamps, are nearly the
best you can buy. If you were rehosing your cooling system this would
be the stuff to get. Sold in packs of 10 for the price some are
selling two for, I must be in the wrong business. I don't begrudge
anyone making a profit, but geez.
On another note, has anyone tried this outfit's window regulators?
www.a1electric.com
Before you jump on the quality issue (I don't know about it, thats
why I'm asking), they are sold in twos for less than the price some
D parts vendors get for one.
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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 20:05:52 EDT
From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: American Express Gold Catalogue WANTED
Looking for a good quality, good condition, 1980 American Express Catalogue.
Please email me directly. Top Cash Price Paid.
Best Wishes,
Michael Pack
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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 19:20:53 -0500
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: heat soak
I seem to remember someone saying they had a fan module that would run the
fans for a while after turning off the engine. (Like a turbo intercooler?)
Is that a fanzilla? Or? (Martin? hint hint?)
Would any valves (and what other systems) need to be opened/powered for
behavior like that?
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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 17:15:49 -0700
From: greglinstad <greglinstad@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Frame numbers (was Engine Numbers)
Jim,
Helicoil is a Black&Decker/Emhart company. Locations in Connecticut, phone 203-924-4737, and California, phone 714-552-8246. They only sell through distributors, but the main office can tell you who they are.
Greg Linstad
Pacific Northwest DeLorean Club
VIN# 3507 121,000+ miles
Washington plate "RUSTLSS"
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Strickland [SMTP:ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 2:58 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Frame numbers (was Engine Numbers)
This is a similar topic, and peaked my curiosity when I found it;
Are the frames numbered? I found a "757" welded on the frame on the side
of the engine compartment. I figured this was either a frame number or a
leftover part from a Boeing. With my car, it's anyone's guess.
Speaking of which, where can I get a heli-coil? I've contacted lockheed
martin and northrup grumman but keep getting the run-around. Thanks
Jim
1537
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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 19:53:29 -0500
From: "A.H. MacIntosh & Co." <dmc12@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Nasty gauges
Has anyone ever pulled the stock instruments out, and put them where they
belong (the rubish bin)... and replaced them with quality gauges?
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