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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Intermittent Starter Dead - can YOU help?
From: "MrCopies" <mike@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Chassis removal
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
5. Re: Re: Delco Alternator wiring
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
6. Re: Re: Idle_Off-idle problem
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
7. Re: More Purchase Advice
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
8. Re:Re: Chassis Removal
From: scottmueller<scottmueller@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Safe haven in Jersey City, NJ?
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Intermittent Starter Dead - can YOU help?
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <mpolans@xxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Re: Chassis removal
From: jus4sho@xxxxxxx
12. striping DMC-then rebrushing or painting
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
13. door removal
From: "Erik Geerdink" <delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx>
14. Delorean One (Was: Re: Re: Chassis removal)
From: E Grauff <datamonk@xxxxxxx>
15. Chassis removal and shielding idea
From: "Christopher M. Hawes" <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Intermittent Starter Dead - can YOU help?
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
17. Re:Re: Chassis Removal
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Delco Alternator (my 2 cents worth)
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. burned panels for sale
From: "Erik Geerdink" <delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: Belts and Spark plugs?
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: Re: DMC Prototype
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Radio/ CD Changer info request
From: "Steve Pattison" <stevep1@xxxxxxxx>
23. Coolant fluid
From: "Sacha Prins" <sprins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: Re: DMC Prototype
From: "Don Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Re: Delco Alternator (my 2 cents worth)
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 02:59:54 -0000
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
My guess on your fuel pressure problem is that you might have not
connected all of the fuel lines correctly. I don't know exactly which
hoses you had to put together and even the ones you didn't are
suspect. You must go over the fuel circuit fitting by fitting, some
of
the hoses go over and under and it can be easy to mix them up
especially when you have never seen the system before. Just using a
drawing is hard so my best recomendation is to find another "D" that
runs (wasn't a basket case) and go over it hose by hose.I have a fuel
pressure tester but I think you can troubleshoot this without it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand@xxxx>
wrote:
> So, what have I done since the Cleveland show? Nothing.
>
> I spent the last six weeks hopping around the world on business, and
> driving around to other car shows in my '58. Summer comes but for
a
few
> months a year, and I enjoyed putting a 1000 miles on the old
Plymouth in
> just a few weeks.
>
> But every time I open my garage door, I see a D staring back at
me...
> with an impatient _expression_ on her fascia that seems to say,
"Well???"
>
> So it's time to get back on the horse. I finally started back in
on
the
> car. Except for the air conditioning, the car is 100% functional,
if
> not perfectly tuned. I could really use a Bosch fuel pressure
tester.
> If anyone out there in DMCNews-land has one I could borrow or rent,
> please let me drop me a line.
>
> I took the opportunity to organize things around the shop a bit, and
> noticed something important. My pile of parts left to install is
now
> really small. Aside from the body panels and interior components,
there
> isn't much left to put on at all.
>
> I'm only a weekend and a lifetime away from being finished. I can't
> really believe there's so little left to do. Here's a brief list:
>
> 1) Get body work done on T-panel, doors, and RH quarter.
> 2) Rebrush all stainless.
> 3) Install all stainless.
> 4) Purchase and install new fasicas.
> 5) Install new windshield.
> 6) Purchase and install rear window.
> 7) Get interior carpets professionally cleaned. Get 'hopeless'
pieces
> replaced.
> 8) Purchase and install new seat covers.
> 9) Finish air conditioning.
> 10) Install interior, including purchasing new binnacle.
> 11) Get wheels powder coated.
> 12) Get oxygen sensor bung welded onto exhaust pipe.
> 13) Restore windshield moldings.
> 14) Repair and repaint engine cover and louvers
> 15) Paint trunk compartment.
> 16) Alignment.
> 17) Pennsylvania state inspection.
>
> I'm going to try the "dry ice" trick on the dents first. I'll keep
> y'all posted on the results.
>
> -Dave Stragand
> http://www.ProjectVixen.com
> VIN #05927
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 23:14:22 -0500
From: "MrCopies" <mike@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Intermittent Starter Dead - can YOU help?
Hi Gang!
I'm just finishing up a frame-off restoration and am getting an
intermittent starter problem. All the electrical works (lights, horns,
radio, fuel pump engages etc..) but I'm not getting 12 volts to the starter.
I turn the key and can hear a relay click but that's it.
- The battery is practically brand new
- The starter is operational (I hooked it up directly to the battery and it
engages)
I thought I had solved the problem a few weeks back (I cleaned a few of the
ground connections) but the problem seems to have re-surfaced. This time
cleaning had no effect.
Is there an electrical guru in the house?
Thanks
mike@xxxxxxxxxxxx
VIN#17089
Windsor, Ontario Canada
www.mydelorean.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 03:14:02 -0000
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Chassis removal
The closest and easiest paint I have found is Krylon "smoke grey".
You should be able to find it in any store that sells Krylon spray
cans, Home Depot carries the brand. Since you are painting the entire
frame it would be easier to go to a body shop and have them mix you
up
a gallon. You can use a test panel sprayed with the spray can for a
color match and then use it to touch up any scratches after you
reassemble the car.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxx> wrote:
> Thanks for all the answers guys. The reason I am removing the frame
> from the body is to restore it (to answer one DMLers question). It
> has alot of rust on it and I want to remove it and recoat it with
> Wurths Rock and Rust guard so it doesn't get worse. I have to
remove
> everything..all brake lines, fuel lines...etc...the entire frame
will
> be stripped of all of the epoxy coating, inspect it for any
structual
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 22:05:13 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
Before everyone starts to discuss how to repair their stainless steel panels let me make the following statement.
Trying to repair you own panels is like handing you a pallet, paint brushes, and canvas and asking you to create a Rembrant. Body and fender repair personal who can effectively repair stainless steel are one in a thousand. We have been servicing DeLoreans since 1986 and we still ship stainless panels out to the experts for repair.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Jgshawaii@xxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 12:50 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
WHATS THE DRY ICE TRICK?
Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 01:46:38 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Delco Alternator wiring
The battery warning lamp/field exciter wire is brown/yellow not brown/white. This wire is not part of the volt meter circuit.
If you are marketing parts or giving advise to DeLorean owners on this list please be sure that your information is accurate.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: John Hervey
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 9:08 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Delco Alternator wiring
Ralph, Liability, is part of the problem when advise is given on
something that wasn't bought form a dealer or someone like me that
works on cars a lot and has working knowledge. Wheather it's a De
Lorean or a chevy. Wiring can be tricky: I know. I designed a
alternator for the Delorean that I warrant for life, bolt on
replacement, with 140 amp rated output, and designed for low rpm high
output. There is a big difference that what is bought at auto parts
stores. The wires your talking about should be a small brown /white
stripe that luminates the batt light and loops back to tell you the
output of the gauge. On the GM connector there should be a L embossed
on the black plastic connector just below a small brown
wire it's self. L Means light. None of the other wires on the
connector are used on my design. The large brown wires coming out of
the wiring loom hook up to the output of the alternators large maby
#10 bolt on the alternator. That's all there is. If you have any
problems, you can call me in the evening, 972-564-9321.
John
11004.
P.S. I'm not a dealer, just a De Lorean enthusiastic. --- In
dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, sand131@xxxx wrote:
> Can one of you Delco experts tell me the wiring to replace my
Ducellier
> alternator with a Delco. Or send me a diagram (I am better with
pictures) at
> SAND131@xxxx
> Thanks,
> Ralph
> Vin 1606
Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 02:26:46 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Idle_Off-idle problem
John,
Your DeLorean idle speed is 125 RPM's too fast. The factory specifications are 775 RPM +/- 50 RPM. The idle speed is controlled by the constant idle speed circuit and is non-adjustable. Any attempts at overriding this circuit will result in unsatisfactory results.
The section of the technical information manual that referees to "idle speed adjustment" is incorrect.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: John Hervey
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 9:55 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Idle_Off-idle problem
Dave,
My 11004,Jan. 82 Idles at 900, I have also noticed that even thought
the books say idle can't be adjusted. In another part of the service
manual it shows you how to adjust the idle.
John
11004
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxx> wrote:
> Thanks. The idle RPMs (750 vs 850) were estimated based on watching
> the tach thru the back window, not with any fancy test equipment.
> Strange thing to us was the difference between the two cars, one
> going to 1200 and one (mine) going to around 900 by flipping the
> microswitch. I did notice, though that it was impossible to make my
> engine run at, say, 1000 rpm with the gas pedal, it was either
above
> or below.
>
> BTW - these two cars were within about 400 VIN of each other, both
> 10/81 build.
>
> So - I guess the other car has a 1200 rpm ECU and mine has 900. Any
> idea when the spec changed? I'll bet it was 10/81 or one of these
has
> been changed. My car is the slightly later build date of the two.
>
> Thanks!!
>
> Dave
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxx> wrote:
> > Dave,
> >
> > There are two versions of the idle speed ECU both are set for 750
> +/- 50 RPM when switched on and 900 and 1200 RPM when switched off.
> Although the 1200 RPM sounds high the effect will null out as soon
as
> a load is placed on the engine.
> >
> > BTW; your idle speed should be 750 RPM not 850.
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Dave Swingle
> > To> Subject: [DML] Idle_Off-idle problem
> >
> > either idle at 850 rpm (normal) or, as you tip-in the throttle,
> jump
> > immediately to about 1200
Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 02:59:22 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: More Purchase Advice
Bruce,
This is a variable subject. If the car is factory original the basic safety and reliability updates will run around $1500. On the other hand if you would like all of the updates available for a DeLorean you will spend $3000 to $4000.
If you are looking for, as you say, perfect inside and out, you will be looking at a DeLorean with low mileage that has been stored indoors and has been cared for. You wont find many DeLoreans in this condition for under $19,000.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: bduncan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 10:24 PM
Subject: [DML] More Purchase Advice
I have seen several "original" cars for sale. I am speaking
with someone now who says that all he's replaced on the car
has been the tires and he's the second owner. My question is
what updates would definitely need to be done to an "original"
car? Relays, hoses, alternator? What else? And approximately
how much would it cost to do all these updates assuming I
could do them myself?
If I can get a car with a perfect exterior and interior,
but no updates, how much should I pay? $12,000? $13,000?
Thanks in advance,
Bruce
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 05:15:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: scottmueller<scottmueller@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re:Re: Chassis Removal
Steve Rubano and others,
Hey everybody, lets not start the old thread again about how DeLorean One does there
business. Let sleeping dogs lie.
Scott Mueller
Steve Rubano wrote:
"P.S what is the deal with Delorean one? I mean I called them (first
time ever) to find out some info on a part and they wouldn't tell me
unless I gave them my Name, area I was from, ENTIRE VIN number (not
just the last 5 numbers), blood type, hair color..(well not that much
info"
Get 100% FREE Internet Access from Freei.Net. 100% FREE, 100% Anonymous, 100% Jam Packed with features. Check us out at http://www.freei.net.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 09:37:09 -0400
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Safe haven in Jersey City, NJ?
Hello All,
I'll be visiting a friend in Jersey City,NJ this weekend (driving my D
from Boston), and would like to know if anyone out there knows a safe/secure
place I can park my D in or near Jersey City on Sat/Sun nights. (I don't
want to leave it parked on the street near Journal Square overnight!)
Thanks in advance!
-Hank
p.s. The results of the "theft survey" should be done on a day or so. I had
about 20 responses, and most people think major theft deterrents are not
really needed, just common sense.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 09:49:29 -0400
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <mpolans@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Intermittent Starter Dead - can YOU help?
Mike,
I had this problem and it turned out to be a simple bad relay
connection. I think it was called the starter cutoff relay? Of the two
rows of relays it's second from the left on the row closest to the engine if
memory serves me. I pulled it and cleaned the contacts with a pencil eraser
and also took an air can and blew the sockets clean. Made sure the wires
were connected and tight underneath and reinserted the relay. The car
cranked on the next try. That was my issue. Hope it's yours too because
it's an easy and free fix. Good luck!
Matthew
Vin #10365
----- Original Message -----
From: "MrCopies" <mike@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 12:14 AM
Subject: [DML] Intermittent Starter Dead - can YOU help?
> Hi Gang!
>
> I'm just finishing up a frame-off restoration and am getting an
> intermittent starter problem. All the electrical works (lights, horns,
> radio, fuel pump engages etc..) but I'm not getting 12 volts to the
starter.
> I turn the key and can hear a relay click but that's it.
>
> - The battery is practically brand new
> - The starter is operational (I hooked it up directly to the battery and
it
> engages)
>
> I thought I had solved the problem a few weeks back (I cleaned a few of
the
> ground connections) but the problem seems to have re-surfaced. This time
> cleaning had no effect.
>
> Is there an electrical guru in the house?
>
> Thanks
> mike@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> VIN#17089
> Windsor, Ontario Canada
> www.mydelorean.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 12:32:00 EDT
From: jus4sho@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Chassis removal
It's unfair to Steve to just say "Let sleeping dog's lie" regarding his experience with Delorean One. Assuming Steve's either new to the list or to the entire Delorean "scene", that type of response still probably leaves him wondering "what gives?"
Suffice it to say this:
Many people are very satisfied with the service they receive from Delorean One, however many people have also had the very same experience you did Steve. It was nothing you did, simply the way they choose to operate.
Steve
VIN 2650
http://www.angelfire.com/md2/projectdelorean
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 10:17:58 EDT
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: striping DMC-then rebrushing or painting
Hello List,
I just talked to someone on repainting my car. The entire car will have
to be stripped down to the stainless before it can be repainted. when the
car was painted(early 1981) something was trapped in between the coats of
paint which is now popping out. my car has little specs all over it that
look like sand is stuck in the paint. he said that they didnt let the paint
sit long enough between coats and something didnt have time to evaporate.
anyways, it must come off before it can be repainted.
My neighbor who works at an aircraft company says his mechanic can
rebrush my entire car for a very reasonable price. If I get the correct flap
brush he will do the whole car. I guess they brush some pieces on the
aircrafts also.
If that doesnt work out I will just have the car repainted. but as long
as the paint is coming off I should try to leave it stainless.
I have searched the archives and it looks like aircraft stripper works
well. I know some of you on the list have stripped dmc's before, any
recomendations? Is there a good stripper that I can get at NAPA? how long
did it take to strip the car?
Thanks in advance
Dave
#2496-
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 17:28:10 -0000
From: "Erik Geerdink" <delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: door removal
Is there a good way to take off the door without shattering the rear
glass. I hear horror stories of people taking their torsion bars off
and the glass shattering. Any input would be great.
Erik Geerdink
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 11:11:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: E Grauff <datamonk@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean One (Was: Re: Re: Chassis removal)
The advice I give people about DeLorean One is to only call them if you
really intend on buying a part. When I first got my D', the previous
owner told me to call them - that they were very nice and helpful. So I
did a few times, just to get prices and get a feel for what I was up
against. Then I had a minor accident in the car, and posted here looking
for used parts since I knew the insurance company was going to knock the
estimate way down.
The next time I called there, credit card in hand, I was told they
wouldn't quote me prices, that they didn't have time for me - and that
they had seen my post looking for used parts. (Hmmm, maybe that's why I
don't post my VIN here anymore . . . ) Their loss . . . and my gain, since
the other sources (and this newsgroup) have been very helpful since then,
but I'm getting off track.
It all comes down to that they are only a resource if you are spending
money there. So if you want my two bits - if you are a new owner, deal
with everyone else until you find something the other places don't have.
Then call DeLorean One, tell them your Vin and order the part if they have
it. Just don't expect any help on the phone until then.
-Eric
(and I'm getting mine back today after a few months! Yeah!)
On Tue, 1 Aug 2000 jus4sho@xxxxxxx wrote:
> It's unfair to Steve to just say "Let sleeping dog's lie" regarding
> his experience with Delorean One. Assuming Steve's either new to the
> list or to the entire Delorean "scene", that type of response still
> probably leaves him wondering "what gives?"
>
> Suffice it to say this: Many people are very satisfied with the
> service they receive from Delorean One, however many people have also
> had the very same experience you did Steve. It was nothing you did,
> simply the way they choose to operate.
>
> Steve
> VIN 2650
> http://www.angelfire.com/md2/projectdelorean
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 19:32:40 +0100
From: "Christopher M. Hawes" <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Chassis removal and shielding idea
Steve,
In regard to Steve and his frame renovation,
Does the DMC frame flex a certain amount????
If so, will the Wurths rock and rust guard flex with the frame or crack
allowing water to seep into the water sensitive frame???
Has anyone ever though about a plastic chassis shield which would protect
the epoxy coating from stone chips. It could be very thin, strong and light
protecting much of the frame from damage?
Thoughts on this DMLers????
regards
Christopher M. Hawes
non DMC owner presently
From: Steve Rubano <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [DML] Re: Chassis removal
lots of snipping - I am removing the frame from the body is to restore it
(to answer one DMLers question). It has alot of rust on it and I want to
remove it and recoat it with
Wurths Rock and Rust guard so it doesn't get worse. I will be painting over
the wurths paint with a grey paint to closely match the original color (any
sugestions?). The wurths paint only comes in Black,
altough I have seen POR15 (another rock/rust guard paint) both in black and
grey - end of the snipping.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 12:11:32 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Intermittent Starter Dead - can YOU help?
Mike,
Pull the start inhibit relay and check to be sure that none of the spade contacts have not slipped down out of the relay socket. Also check to be sure that there are four brown wires connected to the interior blower circuit breaker. One of those wires is the starter 12 volt supply.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: MrCopies
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 12:14 AM
Subject: [DML] Intermittent Starter Dead - can YOU help?
Hi Gang!
I'm just finishing up a frame-off restoration and am getting an
intermittent starter problem. All the electrical works (lights, horns,
radio, fuel pump engages etc..) but I'm not getting 12 volts to the starter.
I turn the key and can hear a relay click but that's it.
Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 19:32:42 -0000
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re:Re: Chassis Removal
I agree and don't want to start a thread on it. I wasn't saying
anything bad and I am sorry if it seemed it, I was just puzzled. I
have always dealt with PJ Grady (they are only 30 minutes from me)
and will continue to do so. I just saw a rebuild kit for the Master
Brake cylinder on Delorean one's website and just wanted to ask them
if they actually had it...no one else does. That's all.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, scottmueller<scottmueller@xxxx> wrote:
> Steve Rubano and others,
>
> Hey everybody, lets not start the old thread again about how
DeLorean One does there
> business. Let sleeping dogs lie.
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 20:02:39 -0000
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delco Alternator (my 2 cents worth)
I know that this thread has been coming up alot and that most people
are still asking about part numbers and what mods were performed to
get it installed. For those of you who are interested, today I
purchased a Delco alternator remanufactured part number 7939-3I. It
is from a 90-91 Chevy Lumina with a 3.1 Litre engine. It outputs 105
amps and the casing size is similar to the stock alternator. This
alternator has a single mount point on the pivot mount and a
modification needs to be performed on the pivot plate (the one that
is attached to the engine block by 3 bolts). You can use your
existing adjusting arm and belt on this alternator. The alternator
comes with a serpentine belt pulley that has to be swaped with a
single belt pulley, any auto parts store should be able to do this
and they usually don't charge to do this. I have a website at
www.dmcman.homestead.com, go to the Parts & Mods page on it where I
will have pictures and modification steps in detail (coming soon). I
will all let you all know how it is after installing it tonight after
work. The way that I will have it set up, I should not run into
the "no charge at idle" syndrome as with most replacement alternators
I have heard about since the pulley is smaller (will turn the
alternator faster) and best of all you can get it at any autoparts
store since this is used in a wide variety of chevy cars.
Thanks,
Steve
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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 20:28:26 -0000
From: "Erik Geerdink" <delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: burned panels for sale
Hi,
I have a left and right rear panel for sale that were both in a
fire. The left rear has a ding near the bottom rear area, and the
passenger side appears to be in good shape. If anyone is interested
in any one of these, please let me know. I am planning on moving and
would like some of these panels gone. i also have a front left and
right panel (not burned). The right has a dent on the front, the
left is in good
condition.
Erik Geerdink
4512
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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 20:42:35 -0000
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Belts and Spark plugs?
Hey Thai,
The type of spark plugs used in the Delorean were/are type Bosch
HR6DS. You can probably have an autoparts store cross reference these
if they don't carry the Bosch brand. Gapping for them is 0.6-0.7mm
(0.024"-0.028")
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, thai vu <thaiqvu@xxxx> wrote:
>
> Hi,
> Can anyone please tell me the spark plugs numbers (any
> brand name) for the D? And what the belt size/length
> for the A/C and Alternator? If you know the number
> for the K&N air filter too?
> Thanks a million!
> TV
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
> http://invites.yahoo.com/
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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 21:10:48 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: DMC Prototype
This is as I recall:
1) The car WAS in the grounds of the Lotus factory but could not be sold
or moved because Lotus didn't own it... but that the original owners
never claimed it back when the company went under.
2) It is no longer there and has been crushed since the photos were taken
by Dave Howarth all that time ago (some years). Apparently there were
several prototypes at the Lotus factory and all were written off
deliberately (not being road-worthy in the first place!) by the workers
at Lotus. I do not know how true this is.
There were several prototypes i believe, and I look out for the following
when identifying them:
1) the wheels
2) the slidey windows
3) the lack of louvers
4) the handbrake position in the later prototypes.
5) the positioning of the side running lights - they were flush with the
fascias originally
6) the wing mirrors
7) the front cowling around the air intake
...that's just off the top of my head.
Martin
Robert Rooney wrote:
> I think that the car had a fuctional Citroen 4 cylinder engine, but I
> don't know how it was mounted (rear like the current PRV-6 or
> transverse-ish like the Fiat prototype used to test the engine
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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 14:12:44 -0700
From: "Steve Pattison" <stevep1@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Radio/ CD Changer info request
I know this general area has been discussed a number of times but I couldn't find what I was looking for in the archives.
I'd like to know brands & model numbers of any units people have installed in their cars. I'd like an in-dash radio and CD controller for a CD changer. I don't really want to use one of those that has a separate remote control or modulates through my existing radio.
I don't mind having to make dash modifications to install as I'd buy a new panel for further changes.
Thanks for any help
Steve Pattison
Vin 2528
San Diego
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 01 Aug 00 23:30:40 +0100
From: "Sacha Prins" <sprins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Coolant fluid
Hi,
The other day I noticed that the cooling reservoir of my DeLorean was
empty, since I was a long way from home I added 2 liters (0.5 gallons?)
of water which filled the coolant reservoir to the required level.
Today I was driving in a traffic jam and suddenly the temp meter went
to 104C (which is the last white line on the scale) and that scared me
a bit. When I caught speed again the temp meter dropped to a more
regular level. On the way back there was no traffic jam so I could
drive home without any temp problems.
I now wonder if the balance coolant/water might be off in such a way
that it doesn't optimally cool the engine anymore.
My 2 questions in this light are: Is it normal for the engine to heat
up this much in warm weather (88F) when driving slowly for aprox. 30
minutes due to e.g. a trafic jam? Is it advisable to drain the entire 3
gallons of coolant fluid and replace it with fresh fluid, and if so how
do I go about draining it?
If this (second question) is described in the tech. manuals then just
tell me, I'll be getting all my manuals next week and I can look it up
myself. I'm just a bit impatient.
Thanks,
Sacha
#17115
P.S. AFAIK there is no Fanzilla or other similar system installed in my
DeLorean
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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 17:27:28 -0700
From: "Don Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: DMC Prototype
Around 1987 I went to the Lotus Factory in Norwich because of my loyalty to
Chapman and the various Lotus I had owned. I was disappointed to be turned
away from the factory as they indicated they had a "special project" in the
works and for security reasons could not let in any unscheduled visitors.
On chance however I did meet up with an employee who worked in the finishing
department. I asked about what might remain from the De Lorean era and he
indicated that there was a substancial amout of tooling from the prototypes
and many test mules and parts in various states of abandonment. I got the
impression that if I had brought a lorry I could have hauled off whatever I
could load. Oh well!
On another note I was told that the body pressing dies were sold to a North
Sea Fisherman to use as weights for fishing nets. Is there any truth to
that?
Don
----- Original Message -----
From: "Martin Gutkowski" <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 1:10 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: DMC Prototype
> This is as I recall:
>
> 1) The car WAS in the grounds of the Lotus factory but could not be sold
> or moved because Lotus didn't own it... but that the original owners
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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 01:10:41 -0000
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delco Alternator (my 2 cents worth)
I am happy to announce that with a little modification to the pivot
plate, the new Delco alternator is a perfect fit! Check out my
website at www.dmcman.homestead.com for pictures of the pivot plate
modified!
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxx> wrote:
> I know that this thread has been coming up alot and that most
people
> are still asking about part numbers and what mods were performed to
> get it installed. For those of you who are interested, today I
> purchased a Delco alternator remanufactured part number 7939-3I. It
> is from a 90-91 Chevy Lumina with a 3.1 Litre engine. It outputs
105
> amps and the casing size is similar to the stock alternator. This
> alternator has a single mount point on the pivot mount and a
> modification needs to be performed on the pivot plate (the one that
> is attached to the engine block by 3 bolts). You can use your
> existing adjusting arm and belt on this alternator. The alternator
> comes with a serpentine belt pulley that has to be swaped with a
> single belt pulley, any auto parts store should be able to do this
> and they usually don't charge to do this. I have a website at
> www.dmcman.homestead.com, go to the Parts & Mods page on it where I
> will have pictures and modification steps in detail (coming soon).
I
> will all let you all know how it is after installing it tonight
after
> work. The way that I will have it set up, I should not run into
> the "no charge at idle" syndrome as with most replacement
alternators
> I have heard about since the pulley is smaller (will turn the
> alternator faster) and best of all you can get it at any autoparts
> store since this is used in a wide variety of chevy cars.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
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