dmcnews-digest Saturday, August 8 1998 Volume 03 : Number 397
In this issue:
Re: DML: price
Re: DML: Wrecked D
DML: Fun with DeLorean Electrics (+ other bits)
DML: Delorean for sale
DML: small oil leak
Re: DML: Just bought one
Re: DML: Door light kill switch alternatives
Re: DML: Wrecked D
Re: DML: Just bought one
DML: Early VIN, How Low Can You Go?
Re: DML: Early VIN, How Low Can You Go?
Re: DML: small oil leak
DML: Re: Fun with DeLorean Electrics (+ other bits)
Re: DML: Just bought one
DML: Re: Wrecked D
DML: Re: small oil leak
DML: Still another Door light switch alternative.
DML: Insurance
DML: Re: Just bought one
DML: recovered VIN unknown
DML: Question about storing DMC's
DML: DeLorean spotted
DML: Taking off upper Door panel
DML: Ignition Switch Self-Destruct Feature
DML: Re: Fun with DeLorean Electrics (+ other bits)
DML: Re: dmcnews-digest V3 #396, Two-Tone Interiors
Re: DML: Just bought one
Re: DML: Door light kill switch alternatives
DML: Re: Insurance
Re: DML: Question about storing DMC's
Re: DML: recovered VIN unknown
Re: DML: recovered VIN unknown
Re: DML: recovered VIN unknown
DML: First in-progress pictures
DML: Re: Door light kill switch alternatives
Re: DML: Just bought one
Re: DML: Re: Just bought one
DML: Who owns...
DML: Price of Deloreans
DML: Delorean spotting
DML: Trunk Cable
RE: DML: Sankyo is A/C (was: Re: Just bought one)
Re: DML: Re: Door light kill switch alternatives
DML: Disc brake measurements
Re: DML:Disc brake measurements
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 21:45:08 +0000
From: Michael Hanley <mjhanley@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: price
I bought mine and drove it off the lot for exactly $10,000 and there is
an ad in the classifieds for one for 6900 but who knows what shape its
in. Don't give up hope, keep looking, they are out there, mine's proof.
- -Mike
VIN#0981
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 23:18:02 EDT
From: CBL302@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Wrecked D
I also forgot to mention,if the title is stamped salvage,that will stay
with
the vehicle
so the resale value is low,after it is repaired,the title and paper work
will
be stamped
rebuilt,after a through inspection by MVD.
CBL302
vin.000570
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 10:02:32 +0100
From: "Robert Aitchison" <rai@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Fun with DeLorean Electrics (+ other bits)
I just got my DeLorean in from the US. Engine looks great and runs well
and
it drove fine (100+miles) after 2 months on a ship and a further two in
storage but.....
1.
Speedo and fuel meter are dead, oil pressure reads max all the time (with
some variations (maybe this is correct?) and the mileometer doesn't turn.
Am I going to have to rip out the dash or can I take an under the bonnett
approach first?
Sticking with the electrics the windows won't ride up or down either.
I guess (after reading the newsgroup) some fuse box checking is also in
order first...
2.
When we were giving the car a jump start the drivers door (which opened
and
closed OK to start with) was subject to vibration as we got the thing
going.
When I got on the road and stopped I was struck with the familiar -
"trapped
in a DeLorean" saga. The passengers door is fine but now the drivers side
is
semi open (lock is off) but I cannot seem to get the door either shut
properly or open completely.
Is there any adjustments I should make (assuming I do get the damn thing
open eventually...)
3.
Also - Does anyone know where I can buy parts in the UK?
This is a great newsgroup ... hope to add my own experiences later.....
Regards
Bob Aitchison
VIN 5462 (Aug 81)
rai@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 07:25:26 EDT
From: FerrisBuh@xxxxxxx
Subject: DML: Delorean for sale
Delorean Motor Center has a late '83 model owned by a phsyician for sale.
The
car has a concours interior, is without a single ding, has been lowered
and
also has a single IHI turbo. My recollection is that the car has 44,000
miles
on it, and the owner is asking $16,000 because he is moving. The
transmission
is a manual, the interior black leather with gray carpets and headliners.
Visually, it only needs the louvers and mirrors painted. If anyone is
interested, call Don @ (714) 554-6794.
Dave Buhler
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 07:56:04 EDT
From: WtrResQ@xxxxxxx
Subject: DML: small oil leak
ok, every time i turn around u guys r discussing another "D" problem.
here is
another question from a new "D" owner. i have a small oil leak (couple
drips
on the ground) that i have narrowed down to an electrical connector on the
driver side rear of the engine. if u hang ur head under the bumper u can
see
it. it has one wire to it and it is kind of a nut thing. ive been
looking at
the shop manuel but dont kno wat it is. the top part of the "thing"
turns a
bit...
also, my car has only 2k miles, but wat is this "rear swing arm "thing i
keep
reading about??? and wat do i need to look for or do about it.????
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 06:58:14 -0500
From: scottmueller@xxxxxxxxx (Scott Mueller)
Subject: Re: DML: Just bought one
OLopez1@xxxxxxx wrote:
>
> I just bought a 1981 DeLorean VIN 6882 and it is in near perfect
> condition.
SNIP
>
> P.S. What should the voltmeter indicate when the car is stopped and when
> you
> accelarate. For me it reads 8V while stopped and about 13V when I press
> the
> accelarator.
My volts at idle are 13V with now accessories on (AC,Lights) and will
drop down to 9V with all accessories on.
> Also when the car is idle (not off) what shoud the
> tachometer
Mine idles about 800 RPM, there should be a label on the inside of the
engine covewr that shows the idle specs for your particular car.
Scott
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 08:44:20 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Door light kill switch alternatives
I had written a long message last night that had the same main idea..
But before I sent it, I looked back at the history of this thread and
got a bit confused. I did not send the message.
Are we looking for alternatives of what to do with the lights at a car
show? Or how to fix the problem of the lights staying on?!
If the idea is how to fix the problem, then I will sum up my non-sent
message with.... A diode probably blew out, find it and replace it...
As far as what to do at a car show, It takes 2 seconds to pull the wire
on the door switch... What is the problem with that?
It is possible that those who choose to pull the fuse may be changing
the balance of the circuit, and stressing (eventually destroying) the
diode.
lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> Sorry if this sounds simplistic....I just think all the cut off switch
> door lights seams so over involved for what appears a very simple problem.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 08:48:59 -0400
From: medic-1@xxxxxxxx (A Johnson)
Subject: Re: DML: Wrecked D
My DeLorean is listed as RECOVERED and is stamped on the registration &
title as such. It can cost a preaty penney to fix a wrecked DMC. Mine
was "cooked" in a fire, due to electrical probs. The full story can be
found in the archives.
VIN: RECOVERED
AJ
On Thu, 06 Aug 1998 10:15:59 -0500 steve r <stephenr@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
writes:
>Dear DML,
>
> It looks like I might be a very happy camper in a few weeks. My
>next door neighbor is thinking about buying a wrecked D and fixing it
(SNIP)
>monday. The price for the wrecked D is $2,500 and he hopes to be able
>to fix it for about $2,500 more. I was just hoping I could get some
>coments from others who have started with a wrecked D and fixed it.
>
>Sincerely and stuff,
>Stephen Rice
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 09:38:00 +0000
From: Albert Siegel <siegel@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Just bought one
hey there, i live in miami too. i have a little de lorean club that
meets every month. feel free to give me a call. albert 378-2197
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 08:27:58 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <SUBSTEM@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Early VIN, How Low Can You Go?
WtrResQ@xxxxxxx ended his "interior" message with:
> thx again,
>
> james
> #0470
Is this number supposed to be your VIN? Are you sure this is correct?
That's a mighty low number, putting your car in the pre-production era!
- - Mike Substelny
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 98 08:03:54 -0700
From: James Espey <espey@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Early VIN, How Low Can You Go?
On 8/7/98 7:51 AM, Mike Substelny shared these fine thoughts...
>WtrResQ@xxxxxxx ended his "interior" message with:
>
>> thx again,
>>
>> james
>> #0470
>
>Is this number supposed to be your VIN? Are you sure this is correct?
>That's a mighty low number, putting your car in the pre-production era!
>
>- Mike Substelny
I noticed that also, but have never seen or heard of car surviving
earlier than #00500 which is near you there at the Crawford Auto Museum
in Cleveland. I think it is far more likely that his car is an '82, and
should actually read #10470...
James Espey
Moderator, DeLorean Mailing List
http://www.dmcnews.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 07 Aug 98 11:15:48 PDT
From: "Brandon S. Moody" <bsmoody@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: small oil leak
> on the ground) that i have narrowed down to an electrical connector on the
> driver side rear of the engine. if u hang ur head under the bumper u can
> see
> it. it has one wire to it and it is kind of a nut thing. ive been
> looking at
> the shop manuel but dont kno wat it is. the top part of the "thing"
> turns a
Probably the Oil pressure "SWITCH", Not to be confused with oil
pressure sender. Probably just needs to be tightened but get a new
one to be safe.
- -Brandon
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 11:09:42 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <SUBSTEM@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Fun with DeLorean Electrics (+ other bits)
Robert Aitchison said:
> Speedo and fuel meter are dead, oil pressure reads max all the
> time (with some variations (maybe this is correct?) and the
> mileometer doesn't turn.
>
> Am I going to have to rip out the dash or can I take an under the
> bonnett approach first?
I am 99% sure you do not have to remove your dash to solve any of
these problems. The oil pressure you describe is a typical reading for
the way that DeLoreans were callibrated in the factory. You don't need
to do anything.
The dead speedometer and mileometer (odometer) are both symptoms
of a bad angle drive or lower speedo cable. You can replace these by
simply jacking up the front of the car and remiving the left front wheel.
The dead fuel guage is a symptom of the original fuel tank sender unit,
which seldom functions correctly. You can fix this with a TankZilla from
P.J. Grady.
> The passengers door is fine but now the drivers side
> is semi open (lock is off) but I cannot seem to get the
> door either shut properly or open completely.
Your car might need door guides. Look for an article addressing this
issue in an upcoming DMC News 'zine, which will be available on the
Internet:
www.dmcnews.com
> Also - Does anyone know where I can buy parts in the UK?
In the U.S. most of us have our parts shipped from the major DeLorean
suppliers. I believe they all ship Internationally, so you can use the
same
sources we use. The is an excellent list of suppliers at the DOA
website:
www.delorean_owners.org
If you are concerned about telephoning your order because of the time
difference, then you can order from the DMC Houston Internet Store
which is open 24 hours a day:
www.usadmc.com
- - Mike Substelny
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 11:25:25 EDT
From: GullwingD@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Just bought one
Hey I am soon coming to miami.... Any DeLorean owners there?
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 11:17:36 -0400
From: "Joe " <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Wrecked D
Stephen,
Be sure to check out front "bottom end", i.e.: suspension and cooling
components. If it was in a front end collision repair costs could be very
high, especially if there is damage to control arms and or the front frame
extension. Some of these components are no longer available.
Additionally,
left front fenders are also no longer available from the warehouse, this
means you will have to shop around and negate price. You may need $2,500
just for this item alone.
Joe/DeLorean Services
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 11:47:47 -0400
From: "Joe " <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: small oil leak
The part that you are talking about is the oil pressure sensor, part No.
102462. It is attached with a copper compression seal. Replace both the
switch and the seal and your oil leak will disappear. The swing arm is
officially called the "radius arm" it is sometimes called the "trailing
arm" it is the large gray item the runs from your rear axle to the frame.
Problems have been encountered at the radius arm bolts that connects the
arm to the frame. If the bolts or bushing fasteners are loose or bent you
could have a situation where the radius arm becomes detached from the
frame, if this happens while you are driving you could be in a very
compromising situation. Order yourself a copy of DeLorean World magazine
No. 26 (Vol. 7). On page 30 you will find a complete story with diagrams
that will answer all of your questions.
Joe/DeLorean Services
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 09:01:55 -0700
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Still another Door light switch alternative.
The day after I bought my car (a year and a half ago) an original owner =
new DeLorean friend looked it over and told me I might want the door =
lights NOT to come on when the door was open, as I would find I was =
showing off the car a lot and working on it. I told him that was =
right. He reached under each side of the dash behind those switches =
and pulled the spade lugs off. That included the buzzer on the left =
side too. I am basically lazy and also at my age I don't bend like I =
used to so installed a little Radio Shack switch INSIDE the duct that =
goes to the door vents for the air conditioning and heater ducts. I =
did not KNOW about the diode problem mentioned lately, however mine =
still work fine. IF they DO eventually blow, I will install ones with =
higher ratings That switch is just a few inches from the door switch so =
easy to install. I suppose it would RUIN your first place chances in a =
concours tho!
Murray
Vin 5962 Lic DMC-XII
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 09:10:00 -0700
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Insurance
For what its worth department, I just paid my insurance bill. It was =
through Condon and Skelley, who advertise in all the automotive =
magazines, although mine was thru a local broker. It cost me $330 per =
year and is FULL coverage....No deductible of any kind on collision and =
half a mil liability. ( a million was not available) The only hitch =
is that it is the so called Parade insurance and I am only allowed 2500 =
miles per year.....probably most of you will laugh at that but in this =
small town it covers my second car needs with no problem. My car is a =
daily driver and I DO get out on the freeway now and then but basically =
have never put more than that mileage on ANY car I have owned for a =
second car.=20
Murray
Vin 5962 Lic DMC-XII
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 11:01:17 -0400
From: "Joe " <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Just bought one
OL,
Congratulations on your DeLorean purchase, here are some answers to your
questions.
1.) The clicking noise you hear is your fan relay which is being energized
by your A.C. system. If it is clicking in increments of less than 7
seconds
you are probably low on Freon. While your at it install a Fanzilla.
2.) The exhaust noise you here is probably due to a blown gasket at the
number 4 exhaust manifold. This will require the left side exhaust
manifold
to be pulled, be sure that it is sent to a machine shop for re-surfacing.
For best results purchase the new gaskets from P.J. Grady, they are far
superior and are easier to replace than the standard replacements. By the
way, this procedure is best left to a properly equipped repair facility.
3. The dash mounted volt meter is not precise enough to accurectly test
your electrical system, use an external voltmeter. At idle with all
accessories off your minimum volt meter reading should be 13V@ 750 R.P.M.
With all accessories on you should see no less than 11.5V@ 750 R.P.M.
Check
to be sure that you do not have an original factory installed Ducellier
alternator, if you do, replace it with a Motorola or Delco A.S.A.P.
4.) Your RPM at idle should be 750 R.P.M. + or - 50 R.P.M.
Joe/DeLorean Services
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 09:20:37 -0700
From: "Dennis Chang" <dennis@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: recovered VIN unknown
AJ:
I noticed you said your VIN is unknown because your D is a recovered
one. Did the thieves eradicate the VIN number from all the possible
locations in the car, like on the engine block, etc.? I don't know
exactly
where the other VIN stampings are, but there might be one concealed
enough that they didn't bother to kill it.
Seems a shame that you can't put a name (or number) to your
vehicle.
Dennis Chang
> AJ
> VIN: RECOVERED (and still unknown)
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 09:16:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christopher Mack <cjmack@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Question about storing DMC's
A few weeks ago I saw an Oct. 81 DeLorean VIN#4837 or 4387 (can't
remember)
(Grey int, auto) for sale in the san Diego area for $6500, although since
then the owner has had second thoughts about selling the car. Stainless
body was in excellent shape (no dents or dings) although it was mile high
in
dust. The car was parked in a garage and had not been run for a year or
two. Does the fuel system need to be flushed and the fuel tank emptied
before the car can be started again? Also, the only parts inside the car
that were still intact were the seats, dashboard, and center console. The
rear Louvre sunshade was broken and the casing to the steering column was
missing along with most of the door panels and the driver's door lock.
Sadly, the car appears to have been broken into and vandalised, although I
can't say for sure. Anyway, provided the car runs well (it has 65K miles)
how much would repairs cost? Please email me and let me know.
Thanks
Christopher Mack
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 09:16:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christopher Mack <cjmack@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: DeLorean spotted
On Thurday June 25 I spotted a DMC in Davis, CA at the intersection of
Anderson Road and Russell Boulevard. Does the car that I saw belong to
anyone on the list? The only person that I am aware of who lives in the
Sacramento Area and owns a DMC is Ken Montgomery. If anyone knows or is a
DMC owner in the Sacramento area please let me know
Thanks,
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 09:29:05 -0700
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Taking off upper Door panel
Like everything else, once you have done it you can see how that upper =
door panel is attached and from then on it is simple and easy.....all =
the instructions I had, DID NOT say anything about pulling UP on the =
panel, as the holes and fasteners (plastic) are vertical. I assumed =
they would pull straight IN and was prying wrong. Also I found that my =
fingers were not strong enough to pop those fasteners loose at all. I =
took a flat file and padded it with a cloth and pried up, from the =
outside with the window down. That worked great. Those fasteners are =
called "Christmas Tree fasteners" as that is what they looked like. (In =
this case the Christmas trees are upside down) I broke one of them and =
just went to an upholstery store here and got several exactly the same, =
with no hassle....actually he reached in a bin and GAVE me a small =
handfull. The panel has two tabs at the bottom that slip into (and out =
of) two matching slots....then at the rear is a sort of C clip that is =
easy to see how it works as the final thing to slip off.
As to the bottom panel, that is another story and is much more =
difficult. I wont go into that as I have not done it yet.=20
Murray
Vin 5962 Lic DMC-XII
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 09:31:10 -0700
From: Wilson_Leong@xxxxxxxx
Subject: DML: Ignition Switch Self-Destruct Feature
Hi everyone,
It has been many months since my last posting due to a big project at
work.
On the positive side of the long hours was being able to drive my car to
work on weekends. I never bring it into work during the week because our
parking lots are extremely full and the spaces are all made for compact
cars.
A few weeks ago I encountered my first problem with my car since I bought
it last November. As I was pulling into the parking lot, my ignition
switch decided to come apart. The entire tumbler cylinder assembly spewed
onto the floor. I attempted to put the lock back together, but it
wouldn't
cooperate. There were a number of spacers and springs inside the column
assembly preventing the tumbler cylinder from re-entry. Being late for a
very important meeting, I devised a way to kill the engine and later
figured out how to hot-wire it to get home.
After getting it home, I tried to align the springs, spacers, etc. so I
could reinstall the tumbler cylinder. I thought it would be easier if I
pulled the steering column assembly. I found the column lock assembly was
installed with tamper proof bolts that either required special tools or
had
to be cut off. Does anyone know an easy way to remove these? With this
roadblock I decided to bypass that problem for the meantime. So far, I
have rebuilt the cylinder and re-install it. The culprit causing my
grief,
and 6 hours of work so far, was a tiny pin that secures the cylinder into
the steering column assembly had backed out slightly, allowing the
cylinder
to launch itself. This pin is a tiny tapered & serrated pin that measures
about 3/16L x 1/16"D which is pressed into a small hole in the column
assembly, peripheral to the cylinder. Its original installation didn't
appear to be very robust. I have reinstalled this pin with some 271
Loctite and hope it will never come out again.
The ignition switch works electrically, but I couldn't rebuild the
steering
column lock mechanism. I think I still need to remove the column assembly
in order to rebuild it. Anyone had this problem before? I could use some
advice on removing and/or rebuilding this assembly.
Related to this, I have discovered that I can increase the amount of
adjustment in the steering column. The top of the steering wheel
partially
obscures the instrument panel even when the steering column tilted to the
top of its travel. On my car, this travel was limited by the plastic
steering column cover. I heated and reshaped the cover and got an extra
1/2" of travel. This has improved my view of the instruments. You taller
drivers may want to check this out on your cars.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 12:50:26 -0400
From: "Joe " <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Fun with DeLorean Electrics (+ other bits)
Robert,
Your non functioning speedo is due to a frozen angle drive which needs to
be rebuilt or replaced it is located at the left front wheel.
A defective fuel tank sender is probably the culprit behind your non
functioning fuel gauge. The original sender is no longer available. There
is, however, an after market unit which is far superior to the original,
it
is called the "Tankzilla" and is available from P.J. Grady. You will not
have to remove any of the instruments for any of the above repairs. The
oil
pressure gauge is the only instrument that is not very accurate, it is
normal for it to vary considerably.
Window motors are fused by fuse # 30. Next are the control switches in the
center console and than onto the window motors. Spray the interior of your
switches with contact spray if that does not work or if you hear the
motors
clicking with no movement the entire motor drive will have to be replaced.
Your door problem may be due to one of two possibilities: you may have a
burnt out or frozen lock solenoid or your release handle may be out of
adjustment. I am a little confused about you not being able to close the
door, you'll have to give me more details. As far as parts go you should
have no problem with all engine related items, the engine is from Volvo,
Pugeot, Renault and the fuel system is all Bosch. For most other item you
will have to purchase from USA suppliers.
Joe/DeLorean Services
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 08:03:41 -0700
From: Wilson_Leong@xxxxxxxx
Subject: DML: Re: dmcnews-digest V3 #396, Two-Tone Interiors
This topic you are discussing has tweaked my curiosity. I own 2609, which
is an 81 model. It has black seats, dash, door trim, & center console,
but
the carpet & headliner are gray. I know the seat covers were replaced by
the previous owner, but I don't know what was the original color. Is my
car considered a black or gray interior? What do "black" or "gray"
interiors look like? Is this similar to what is in Jason's car? Or was
this
a modification by the previous owner? Any comments would be helpful.
>Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 12:45:53 -0700
>From: Jason Perkins <jperkins@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: DML: Interior Colors?
>My 83 D has grey cloth interior and black leather seats. I thought the
>color
>choices where all black or all grey. Is there a vin# that seperates the
>two? I have looked through the past archives, and have found no relevant
>information on split colors. Anybody have an answer to this?
>JAson Perkins
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 17:10:10 EDT
From: DMC3309@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Just bought one
In regards to the voltmeter it should always read above 13 volts at idle
or
acceleration. The best way to check the alternator is to put a volt meter
across the output at the alternator. This will tell you if you have a bad
gauge or alternator.
Robert
VIN 3309
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 13:51:25 -0400
From: "Joe " <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Door light kill switch alternatives
Mike,
As soon as a DeLorean arrives at our shop we pull fuse No. 12 to prevent
battery drain when we service the cars. We have been doing this for 14
years and have never had a diode failure. As I had mentioned in an earlier
posting a kill switch is the easiest and least expensive solution. As a
side note, we have a DeLorean that is used strictly for "Back To The
Future" presentations, it is fitted with two batteries, the main and an
auxiliary which is installed in the storage compartment behind the drivers
seat. It is wired through the electrical system through a battery
isolator.
This allows us to light up the car for display with no fear of draining
the
main battery. This is the same system that is used in RV's and emergency
vehicles.
Joe/DeLorean Services
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 18:14:03 -0500
From: "C. Longwisch" <CL1954@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Insurance
The BIG hitch to parade type insurance is you can not drive the
vehicle(and
be covered) to work, the store, or anyplace that the car is left
unattended.
Cecil Longwisch
DMC1982
VIN# 10663
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 19:18:09 EDT
From: JSteuben@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Question about storing DMC's
Dear Chris,
you need to find out from the current owner as much as you can about the
car's
history. From what you are describing, this car ain't no bargin at $6.5k.
Yes to all of your questions. Don't even try to start it until you have
changed all of the liquids, gas, oil, water and anything else you can
think
of. Not to mention the possible goo factor in the gas tank. Or, maybe
you
would like to see my car which is for sale? It too came from San Diego
where
it was maintained (?) by the local Lamborghini (spelling?) dealer. It's
an 81
with an auto trannie, black interior, and I have the service records since
new, along with the original window sticker and the bill sale, and
much-much
more. This car was cherry when I bought it and I've put many thousands of
documented dollars in it to assure that its an everyday driver that's
bullet
proof. Good luck on your quest, Joe
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 19:23:47 -0400
From: medic-1@xxxxxxxx (A Johnson)
Subject: Re: DML: recovered VIN unknown
Dennis,
NO, the car had an electrical fire back in '84. There is no vin to found
on the car at all, It was fully redone inside and the outside was taken
apart too. It has been searched! It has a RECOVED vin # issued to it.
The full story on it is in the back issues.
AJ
On Fri, 7 Aug 1998 09:20:37 -0700 "Dennis Chang"
<dennis@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> writes:
>AJ:
>
>I noticed you said your VIN is unknown because your D is a recovered
>one. Did the thieves eradicate the VIN number from all the possible
>locations in the car, like on the engine block, etc.? I don't know
>exactly
>where the other VIN stampings are, but there might be one concealed
>enough that they didn't bother to kill it.
>
>Seems a shame that you can't put a name (or number) to your
>vehicle.
>
>Dennis Chang
>
>
>> AJ
>> VIN: RECOVERED (and still unknown)
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 17:15:59 -0000
From: James Espey <espey@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: recovered VIN unknown
>> AJ
>> VIN: RECOVERED (and still unknown)
When I was at the warehouse last November, Stephen had a computer
printout that was supplied by former DMC employee Leif Montin that
matched up and the engine numbers with the VIN numbers. Find the engine
number on the block (anyone know where it is?) and perhaps they can help
you in finding the VIN. Good luck, and keep us posted...
James Espey
Moderator, DeLorean Mailing List
http://www.dmcnews.com/
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 20:26:19 EDT
From: CBL302@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: recovered VIN unknown
What happens sometimes on salvage or questional vin # cars is the state
will
assign new VIN # to that vehicle and it is a state assigned number,I went
thru
that process with a van because one whole side had been replaced (drivers
side)
and the vin plate had been removed and installed on the new side,and you
must
have
a minimun of two untampered vin plates on your vehicle to pass state
inspection
unfourtunely,my motor and transmission were non origional on my van,so
those
numbers didn't match,also BE careful if you have to remove your vin
plates,for
some
reason or other,some states allow for immediate sezure of your vehicle if
the
vin plates were removed,and the extreme is that the car is crushed and
destroyed.
CBL302
#570
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 17:46:19 -0700
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: First in-progress pictures
For the List of 100 and all interested in what the actual limited edition
DeLorean models kit parts Look like at this stage of completion you can
find 4 snapshots at the DMC site located on the Totalimmersion web
site.
The images should be available for viewing later this evening PDT.
A brief description of the four snapshots can be found on the DMC message
board.
Http://totalimmersion.com/dmcboard/
again sorry for last weeks wild goose chase!
Le
81DMC-12
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 18:59:37 -0700
From: Hank Breer <hbreer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Door light kill switch alternatives
I guess my car is unique. All of my door plunger switches have a small
notch
cut in the side (dremel tool?). Push the switch in and off to the side
and it
locks there and the lights go out. The notch has an angled cut toward the
free end so if you close the doors without 'unlocking' it, it just
centers
itself and returns to normal operation. I always thought that this was a
standard DeLorean feature, but from this thread I guess that the previous
owner of my car (VIN 1141) must also have had this problem and devised
this
no-cost solution.
Hank Breer,
DOA
Hope to see you all at Expo98
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 23:24:37 EDT
From: OLopez1@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Just bought one
In a message dated 8/7/98 8:21:51 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
DMC3309@xxxxxxx
writes:
<< In regards to the voltmeter it should always read above 13 volts at
idle
or acceleration. The best way to check the alternator is to put a volt
meter
across the output at the alternator. This will tell you if you have a
bad
gauge or alternator. >>
I'll do that but I've also had trouble starting the car and the battery
was
pretty old the previous owner said it was more than 3 years old and down
here
in Florida as a rule batteries last less and factor in a car that has
heavy
demand on the electrical systems. I guess I just need a new one.
Thanx
OL
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 23:39:50 EDT
From: OLopez1@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Re: Just bought one
<< 3. The dash mounted volt meter is not precise enough to accurectly test
your electrical system, use an external voltmeter. At idle with all
accessories off your minimum volt meter reading should be 13V@ 750 R.P.M.
With all accessories on you should see no less than 11.5V@ 750 R.P.M.
Check
to be sure that you do not have an original factory installed Ducellier
alternator, if you do, replace it with a Motorola or Delco A.S.A.P.>>
My car has a Sankyo (sp?) alternator. :::worried::: But I have no
problem
replacing it with a Motorola or Delco. Is it any particular P/N for Mot.
or
Delco???
4.) Your RPM at idle should be 750 R.P.M. + or - 50 R.P.M.
Joe/DeLorean Services
That sounds about right. On the lable it says 775 RPM +/- 50 RPM and I
read
just a little above 800.
Thanx
OL
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 08 Aug 1998 00:16:20 EDT
From: dmcnut@xxxxxxxx (DeLorean Nut)
Subject: DML: Who owns...
...VIN 11291? I have spotted the car several times at a local garage
where I have had engine work done. There is a DOA sticker on the left
side of the windshield, and the person with whom I deal at the shop does
not know who owns it but says the guy is a fanatic just like us. The
whole body has been abused a few too many times with a Brillo pad or
sandpaper, but it is one of the better '83s I have seen around here and I
would like to get in touch with the owner. The car was at Steve's
Automotive on Chandler St. in Worcester, MA, yesterday. Any leads are
appreciated...
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 18:54:37 +1000
From: "Brad Gaffy" <gaffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Price of Deloreans
Hi to everyone on the List,
My name is Brad Gaffy and I live in Australia. I have wanted to own a
Delorean ever since seeiing Back to the Future. The only problem is they
are very scarce here in Australia. Only about 1 or 2 examples I think.
My question is how much are they to purchase in the States. Even one that
needs repairs as our import duty is very expensive and the cheaper the
purchase price the better.
Regards
Brad Gaffy
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 08:28:37 EDT
From: WtrResQ@xxxxxxx
Subject: DML: Delorean spotting
i too just saw another "D" in my area. it was a week and a half ago on
redwood rd. in castro valley CA. my wife and i were going home from a
great
evening out in hte "D" when another car passed us on the right....was it
u??
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 12:29:01 -0400
From: "yugoman" <mdrig@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Trunk Cable
My car's cable is broken from the pull lever, it even came with a pair of
vise grips attached to the cable end- (this is the second "D" I've seen
with
that arrangement!). The lever is still there, is there any kind of repair
to
re-attach the cable end to the lever?
Also,where is the relay board located? I have a Fanzilla to install but
don't know where it goes. Thanks!
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 13:17:23 -0400
From: "Richard" <dmc1219@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: DML: Sankyo is A/C (was: Re: Just bought one)
The Sankyo device that you are looking at is the Air Conditioner
compressor.
The alternator is on the other side of the engine and is mounted low.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 08 Aug 1998 09:59:54 -0700
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Re: Door light kill switch alternatives
At 06:59 PM 8/7/98 -0700, you wrote:
>I guess my car is unique. All of my door plunger switches have a small notch
>cut in the side (dremel tool?). Push the switch in and off to the side and it
>locks there and the lights go out. The notch has an angled cut toward the
>free end so if you close the doors without 'unlocking' it, it just centers
>itself and returns to normal operation. I always thought that this was a
>standard DeLorean feature, but from this thread I guess that the previous
>owner of my car (VIN 1141) must also have had this problem and devised
>this no-cost solution.
>
>Hank Breer,
>DOA
>Hope to see you all at Expo98
>
reply:
Hank,
How about taking one of those plungers and setting it on a scanner, and
uploading the image to the DML. Lots of us would love to see the mod.
With a proven notching pattern, the plungers could even be put into kit
form.
Lee
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 11:13:05 +0000
From: kenm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: DML: Disc brake measurements
I just had my brakes checked by the local Midas shop (as I hovered
about and made a pest of myself). I have never had the tires off the
car and had no idea what condition the suspension was in. My
question is about the brake discs. They measured out as:
LF: 525
RF: 506
RL: 501
RR: 494
The rear pads are right at the limit and the front pads are still
very good. What I can't find in the books is what the acceptable
thickness of the discs is supposed to be. The Midas people would not
work on the brakes without knowing this info. The runout on the discs
is low (.001-.004) so I don't think I need them turned. Is this info
in the shop manuals? I couldn't find it anywhere.
I also checked the trailing arm bolts and mounts while it was up in
the air and they look to be tight and in good shape, but I'm still
trying to find what is causing the clunk I get in back when making a
hard left or right turn. I can't see where to lube the drive shaft if
it's coming from there. The only thing I found to be in poor shape is
the lower bushing in the lower link assembly (p/n 100154). It looks
like I can just buy the bushings at least.
- -------------------------------------------------------
Ken Montgomery My DeLorean VIN #10911 'OUTTIME'
Sacramento, CA
kenm@xxxxxxxx "When the wind gets under these wings
Operating You will feel what freedom brings"
Systems Analyst From 'On-Air' Alan Parsons
(916) 278-7646
http://www.jps.net/arkham/delorean01.htm
- -------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 8 Aug 98 11:34:21 -0700
From: James Espey <espey@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML:Disc brake measurements
On 8/8/98 11:13 AM, Ken Montgomery shared these fine thoughts...
>I just had my brakes checked by the local Midas shop (as I hovered
>about and made a pest of myself). I have never had the tires off the
>car and had no idea what condition the suspension was in. My
>question is about the brake discs. They measured out as:
>
>LF: 525
>RF: 506
>RL: 501
>RR: 494
>
>The rear pads are right at the limit and the front pads are still
>very good. What I can't find in the books is what the acceptable
>thickness of the discs is supposed to be. The Midas people would not
>work on the brakes without knowing this info. The runout on the discs
>is low (.001-.004) so I don't think I need them turned. Is this info
>in the shop manuals? I couldn't find it anywhere.
Factory Service Bulletin ST-08-10/82 says...
New Disc Thickness 12.7 mm (.500")
Minimum Allowable Disc Thickness - 11.7mm (.461")
Maximum Allowable Disc Thickness variation - .02mm (.0008")
Maximum Machine Allowance PER SIDE - .5mm (.0197")
Maximum Lateral Runout - .1mm (.004")
Minimum Brake Pad Thickness - 3.0mm (.118")
yada yada yada
I can fax it you if you like...
James Espey
Moderator, DeLorean Mailing List
http://www.dmcnews.com
------------------------------
End of dmcnews-digest V3 #397
*****************************
Postings to the DELOREAN MAILING LIST are the opinions of the author and
not necessarily those of the list moderator (James Espey) or his
Internet
Service Provider(s). The list moderator makes every effort to screen out
false, misleading, and negative postings, but it is up to you, the
reader
of the DELOREAN MAILING LIST, to realize that nothing should be taken as
actual fact without research and investigation of your own.
Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN