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There are 20 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: (sorry, wrong) Re: door adjustment
From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30@xxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Delorean spotted in strange place...
From: Carson Clark <cnsandog@xxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: T panel (roof) removal
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Stainless labels and other things...
From: Dee Moats <Dee-Moats@xxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Frame Repair
From: Dee Moats <Dee-Moats@xxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: frame repair
From: "Claude Landi" <cbl302@xxxxxxx>
7. deloreans for sale
From: "Empress Ballroom" <empressballroom@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Production Chronology (was: Stainless labels and other things...)
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Re: T panel (roof) removal
From: scottmueller@xxxxxxxxx
10. Re: deloreans for sale
From: spooky312@xxxxxxx
11. OCW news article
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf@xxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Production Chronology (was: Stainless labels and other things...)
From: billschaferabn@xxxxxxx
13. New way to clean the car
From: "Jack Singer" <jsinger@xxxxxxx>
14. Re: deloreans for sale
From: DBJCFAM@xxxxxxx
15. Re: Gauges / Sending Units, electrical information....
From: "Ralf Philipp" <doc.brown@xxxxxx>
16. T panel
From: abatt10347@xxxxxxx
17. Lowering Springs Question
From: "MrCopies" <mike@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Front Facia pics for refinishing
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
19. Stainless Heat Shield
From: "Sean Howley" <tsuyoi@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. DeLorean Car Show
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982@xxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2000 15:20:10 HST
From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: (sorry, wrong) Re: door adjustment
Bob. It's a shame that you had to go what you went through. I do believe
that it is possible for that to happen, but I doubt it's common. I'm sure
that a few cars left the factory with the carrier not properly installed. My
original statement was for the 'masses'.... most won't have this happen to
them. All I was trying to state was that the cars were not designed with the
idea that if the peg is removed, the bolt assembly will fall into the
pontoon. However, it doesn't suprise me that some cars left the factory with
this defect. Maybe it was a problem on earlier cars that was fixed as
production went on? I don't know. I was just speaking from my own experience
regarding this issue. If mine didn't fall in, it was obviously designed that
way.
---Dan Vin#5493
>
>I removed the door pin on the passenger side of my D because the door was
>not
>aligned properly from the day it was built. Sure enough the nut dropped
>into
>the hole in the fiberglass side. I had to remove the inside cover over the
>speaker. and cut a 3 inch hole into the fiberglass to get my hand in to
>find
>the nut and hold it in place for the door peg. Afterwards. I drill an
>8/32
>hole and threaded it so I could put a long small screw in the plate to hold
>it
>if I ever needed to remove the peg again.
>
>
>As it turned out the housing for the door peg was set 1/4 off when molding
>the
>fiberglass at the factory. I had to cut the adjustment plate to give more
>movement in order for the door to lock properly. Initially it would only
>single latch and not double latch. This took many hours to correctly
>diagnosis
>and realign.
>
>
>Bob
>
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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2000 19:25:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Carson Clark <cnsandog@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delorean spotted in strange place...
Just FYI. I have a guy that I work with here in san diego who has one and from talking to him seems to have taken good care of it. He is getting ready to retire and wants to sell it. I think you could get a really good price on the car (somewhere around $13K or so), and he told me that all of the work was done by Don at DMC. I also beleive he is the original owner of the car, and low miles. If you are interested I posted an e-mail to the group about it back a few weeks ago...
later,
C
VIN 16367
heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
Hello List,
As you know (or maybe not) I'm in the market for a D, and am
waiting for the Ohio show to see what is available there - so
needless to say, I totally have Delorean-on-the-brain syndrome.
Well, on the phone sitting in my office today watching the
traffic go by, I was shocked to see a Delorean drive by -
the first one I've seen in "the wild" (not one I went to
see, that is). It parked in the lot right next to my
office, and I ran out to find the owner, but they disappeared
quickly. Well, it was an 82/83 (flat hood w/emblem) from
Florida, grey, manual, in EXCELLENT condition. I'm curious
if it was anyone on this list. The car was spotted in
Burlington, MA, at about 11AM.
Cheers,
-Hank
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C
---------------------------------
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online and get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000 03:03:12 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: T panel (roof) removal
You probably don't have to remove the T-Roof. You probably need to
screw the metal structure back down to the fiberglass. Instructions at
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/tbar.htm
Dave
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, abatt10347@xxxx wrote:
My t panel is coming up in the middle causing it to rub on
> the louver when opened. I need to lower it down about 1/8 of an
inch. Could
> someone give me a step by step instruction on how to do this? I
have all the
> manuals and am willing to work on any part of the car, but when it
comes to
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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2000 20:29:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dee Moats <Dee-Moats@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Stainless labels and other things...
Mine was built in Oct 1981 and it is vin 4434. Serious problems in
numbering guys.
On Sat, 29 Apr 2000 19:17:40 EDT, dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> In a message dated 04/29/2000 5:58:15 PM Central Daylight Time,
> billschaferabn@xxxxxxx writes:
>
> << Bruce,
>
> I have a Jan 82 Vin # 1596 and mine had the clock in the radio.
Evidently
> DEC was the change over month.
>
> Bill #1596 >>
> Bill something is wrong with the info above, I think? I have VIN #1606
and
> it was built in June 1981 and you have #1596 built six months later??
> Ralph
> VIN #1606
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2000 20:38:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dee Moats <Dee-Moats@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Frame Repair
Bill you can plate over the area with the rust or cut it out and weld a
piece in its place. If the integrity of the frame is not compromised by the
cut out. One of the problems with epoxy coated steel is that any breach
intensitifies the corrosion problem. Good luck! Dee Moats 4434
On Sat, 29 Apr 2000 21:12:05 EDT, dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> egroup,
>
> I need some advice and help on how to best repair my frame. I took my D
in
> yesterday for brake work and found out I have rust through on both the
front
> and rear frame parts.
>
> The frame has rusted underneath the paint and in the back part it looks
> like a small water leak in the engine area really helped thing race
along.
>
> Can small areas the size of a egg be cut again and new pieces welded in
?
> What are the options to fix this short of the $7,000.00 new stainless
Steel
> frame. HELP!
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000 03:53:55 -0400
From: "Claude Landi" <cbl302@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: frame repair
Depends on the location,if it is a cricital structural area it may be better
to reinforce the whole area,rather than just doing a patch job,and yes you
can just repair a small area,but I would do a complete check on the
frame,and also remove any loose epoxy,and refinish those areas. I would say
every spring when you take your Delorean out for the season do a complete
frame check to make sure you get no surprises.
Claude
000570
3/81
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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000 16:00:37 GMT
From: "Empress Ballroom" <empressballroom@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: deloreans for sale
My Delorean is currently for sale. If I don't sell it by the time of the
Cleveland show, I'm driving out wiyh intent to sell. Will there be many
people looking to buy or sell in Cleveland?
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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000 15:24:32 -0500
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Production Chronology (was: Stainless labels and other things...)
Though everyone is, of course, free to do as they wish, the commonly
accepted way of displaying/identifying your DeLorean's VIN is by
using the last FIVE digits. For example:
Mike Substelny owns -
1981 model SCEDT26T3BD001280 - better identified as #01280
John Schulz owns -
1982 model SCEDT26T?CD010570 - better identified as #10570
This eliminates confusion when identifying the 1982 and 1983 models
against the 1981 models.
The DeLorean Production Chronology was created by me a few years back
to track both the number of cars produced as well as how many per
month, interior color and transmission type ratios, etc. Though it is
due to be updated soon with the latest information from the DeLorean
Owners Directory, it can still be found at the DMC-News web site at:
http://dmcnews.com/Resource/chronology.html
I also encourage all the new owners to participate in the DOD and DPC at:
http://www.dmcnews.com/directory.html
James
>Mine was built in Oct 1981 and it is vin 4434. Serious problems in
>numbering guys.
>On Sat, 29 Apr 2000 19:17:40 EDT, dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>
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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000 15:46:33 US/Central
From: scottmueller@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: T panel (roof) removal
Bruce,
My roof panel was up in the back and I just had to crimp the tabs down a bit. I use
channel lock pliers and a piece of rubber to protect the panel while crimping the tab.
Scott Mueller
1981/002981
You probably don't have to remove the T-Roof. You probably need to
> screw the metal structure back down to the fiberglass. Instructions at
> http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/tbar.htm
>
> Dave
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, abatt10347@xxxx wrote:
> My t panel is coming up in the middle causing it to rub on
> > the louver when opened. I need to lower it down about 1/8 of an
> inch. Could
> > someone give me a step by step instruction on how to do this? I
> have all the
> > manuals and am willing to work on any part of the car,
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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000 17:21:32 EDT
From: spooky312@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: deloreans for sale
I dont know about anyone else but I'm looking to buy!! how much are you
asking for it?
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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000 16:10:46 -0700
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: OCW news article
Interesting article in latest Old Car News weekly magazine which reads as follows:
Auto Legend John DELorean loses estate.
New Jersey - After a five-year legal battle, a bankrupt John Z. DeLorean was forced to leave his Bedminster estate on March 23. Furniture, artworks, chandeliers and other items were removed and stored in a North Plainfield warehouse.
Creditors stripped DeLorean's mansion bare in order to make good on his many debts. National Fairways, Inc., of Connecticut, will convert the estate's 434 acres into a golf course. DeLoreans's Georgian mansion will become a clubhouse.
The former automotive excutaive drove off his beloved estate in a Canary Yellow Acura NSX that was leased by his daughter in California. DeLorean still has one valuable asset left - his life story as the "father" of the Pontiac GTO and the gull-wing DMC sports car that bears his name.
Murray Fisher
Vin: 05962 Lic: DMC-XII
Washington State
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000 19:49:48 EDT
From: billschaferabn@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Production Chronology (was: Stainless labels and other things...)
James,
Thanks for the tip on the proper way to I.D. the vin. I am a new owner and
saw almost all vin #'s displayed as 4 digits so I thought that was the way it
was done. Its good to know the best way to do things and you gave good
examples. thanks for your help in the matter.
Bill #11596
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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000 20:38:25 -0400
From: "Jack Singer" <jsinger@xxxxxxx>
Subject: New way to clean the car
I was power washing my driveway today to get rid of the some mulch that was
left from yard work and while doing it the car was covered with bits of
mulch. So I power washed the stainless. I have owned the car for almost 15
years, it looks better now than ever. Stains that I could not get out are
gone! I don't know if you can hurt it or not, but it cleans better than
anything I have ever tried. It also only took a few minutes. Even those
tight spots on the rims are clean.
Jack.
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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000 20:57:25 EDT
From: DBJCFAM@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: deloreans for sale
I am selling a Delorean. The price of the car is 22,350. It's a '83 with
3,800 miles. It is in perfect condition. All updates are done, and there
are many extras on the car.
Dennis
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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 1 May 2000 03:12:15 +0200
From: "Ralf Philipp" <doc.brown@xxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Gauges / Sending Units, electrical information....
> I need to know the outputs (or rather the inputs) for the various gauges
on the DeLorean. ie. what the oil Pressure sending unit actually sends to
the gauge... I'll need to know the range of values for each of the sending
units for the gagues (oil, fuel, temp, tach, volt?) ... Is this information
published somewhere? Probably not in a compiled form, I'm sure....
>
> it would also be killer if someone could help me with a circuit for
converting each one of these devices to a range that a BASIC Stamp module
could read on it's IO pins (PWM, Resistance, 0-5VDC....) more info about the
BASIC Stamp could be obtained at www.parallaxinc.com or
http://www.radioshack.com/sw/swb/projects/bstampidx.htm
>
> Thanks loads !!!!
>
> - Dave
Nice idea! AFAIK, the basic stamp supports speech output. This opens many
possibilities... What about these:
" Your motor overheats!"
" Oil level is low!"
" Exchange your fuel accumulator!" (after long cranking when hot)
" Close your door while driving, you idiot!" :-)
I am very interested in this idea, but at the moment I have to spend my time
restoring my D. Remind me in approx. 18 months from now. By then I should
have finished the major works and should have the time for such little
toys... :-)
bye,
Ralf.
VIN 10284
- at the moment major GRP repairs in progress. If you wanna see photos,
email me.
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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000 21:27:25 EDT
From: abatt10347@xxxxxxx
Subject: T panel
Fellow DMCer's,
First thanks to Dave, Brandon, and Scott, for their input on how to complete
this task. Second after a very long day my t-panel is now again down in the
middle rear. The cause was as a couple of people had said, the body part ( no
part #) that the torsion bar ret plate (part # 105006) attaches to had moved
up in the middle, ( no doubt due to the amount of force on it from the
torsion bars) This part is glued to the body. After 18+ years the glue had
started to give out. Yes as I was told the t-panel doesn't have to come off
to fix this problem, but with it off I was able to find a new way to fix this
problem. The old way is to take the torsion bars (both) out and then force
the part ( no # again) down, ( using a 3" socket extention) then put in 4 #12
(1") sheet metal screws to hold it into place. ( this is all covered in the
tech section of the DML). With the T-panel off I was able to to put weight (
standing on it and having wife insert screws) on the part and force it down
(without removing the torsion bars) and then apply the screws. A small note
of warning, the t-panel is in there real good, and it does cut you from the
bottom side. The longest part of all this was making the wooden jig ( see
old issues of Delorean World) to undo the torsion bars and waiting for my
friend to come and help. After waiting two hours, I looked at the situation
and thought there has to be a better way. The up side is I now have the
wooden jig if I ever need to adjust my doors. I also used enough of the black
glue that my t-panel will never come off again with out a long drawn out
fight! Thanks again for those who made this job a lot easier with some info
and phone calls answering my questions. This whole eperience has again taught
me that the owners of Deloreans are a very special bunch of people. You are
never alone in you search for help!!! Sorry for length but I'm glad this one
is fixed.
Bruce Battles
Vin# 06569
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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000 21:36:45 -0500
From: "MrCopies" <mike@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Lowering Springs Question
Hi Gang!
I checked the archives and couldn't find the answer so I'm hoping someone
out there can help me.
I'm currently doing a frame off restoration of my Delorean and am getting
ready to reinstall the brakes and suspension next weekend.
Here's the height of my springs - are they stock? or have they been altered?
Front height (uncompressed - uninstalled) - 13"
Back height (uncompressed - uninstalled) - 16.5"
(Measurements are from very bottom to the very tip of the coil)
Thanks
mike@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
"My Delorean - a small price to pay ....to own the road" :)
VIN #17089
Windsor, Ontario Canada
www.mydelorean.com
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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000 21:57:14 EDT
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: Front Facia pics for refinishing
Hi
I had the pleasure (UGH) of refinishing two Delorean facias today.
Since this has been a topic of great discussion over the years I have
attached the pictures of it. I have more if anyone is interested.
by the way the DAU series of paint are no longer available due to it being
discontinued. Guess we will be forced to go to basecoat clearcoat
The DAU was a good choice because it was very flexible and did not crack.
but as anyone who has painted with this color it seperates easy if you go a
little heavy.
Anyway enjoy the pics
ken
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000 22:13:55 -0400
From: "Sean Howley" <tsuyoi@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Stainless Heat Shield
Today, I removed the muffler and heat shield for servicing (don't ask why). This is the first time that I have removed the heat shield since I installed it (about 1.5 years ago). This is the double layered heat shield that I spoke of earlier. After inspecting the two layers, I thought I would report to you all their conditions.
The main stainless sheet (immediately beside the muffler and touching in a couple of places) had two spots that really showed heat penetration. In fact, after some mild 240 grit sanding, I still could not completely remove the spots. The second sheet (nearest to the belts) showed only regular weathering. In fact, just by looking at it, it seems like it had only been left out in a couple of rain storms. After a quick cleanup, it was as good as new.
Sean Howley
VIN#2345
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000 22:12:44 -0400
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean Car Show
Is there anyone on the list from the southeast that is going to the
Cleveland show who may want to caravan? It sure attracts a lot more
attention in a group plus if there are any car problems usually someone can
help.
Cecil Longwisch
#10663
Florence, SC
dmc1982@xxxxxxxxxx
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