To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews ------------------------------------------------------------------------ There are 3 messages in this issue. Topics in this digest: 1. Re: Blown A/C hose From: AJL521@xxxxxxx 2. Re: Re: Alternator-wiring From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx> 3. Broken bolt in engine block From: "BDM" <bmims1@xxxxxxxxxxxx> ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 1 Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 20:12:24 EST From: AJL521@xxxxxxx Subject: Re: Blown A/C hose Hello list, I had the thicker AC hose blow after it came in contact with the exhaust crossover pipe, I would check there first. Pray that you didnt blow the thick hose, because replacement is a nightmare (trust me on that one). Best wishes for a safe and happy new year, Andrew 4194 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 2 Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 02:25:56 +0100 From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Re: Alternator-wiring On Mon, 30 Dec 2002 19:19:04 EST, dherv10@xxxxxxx wrote: > Jan, As you may know by now the brown/yellow wire is called the light > wire. That is the only wire used on the new GM regulators that I build. [snip] > If the brown wire is hooked up to most new style alternators > it will burn up the regulator after a bit. I was afraid of that, so I tried putting the wires from the alternator together and then going to the light, but this didn't work; no charging, no volt-reading on the gauge... At Idle without any accesoiries running we got 13.4V at the starter-post, revving the engine produced between 14.6 and 14.8V, dropping to 14.2V with the lights and highbeams on. > Without the brown /yellow wire hooked up the light won't come on and > the alternator won't charge. Also, if the dash light goes out the > alternator won't charge. Use a 161 bulb only. Allready knew that from you ;-) Now I could REALLY use some suggestions; without the light-wire I get no charging, without the sense-wire there's no charging either! But I'd hate to burn up the regulator; should I put in a resistor of some sort? Any suggestions? I didn't pay much attention to the brand of alternator, but I know it's an aftermarkert one, no Ducellier of Motorola. The owner bought it locally. If important I could ask him what brand/type it is... Thanks for the help, JAN van de Wouw Thinking Different... Using a Mac... Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean... #05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000 ------------------------------ ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 3 Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 20:31:15 -0600 (Central Standard Time) From: "BDM" <bmims1@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Broken bolt in engine block Walter Coe pointed out an error in my previous posting. I meant the Air Conditioner bracket not the Alternator bracket. The bolt that has sheered is a bolt holding the Air conditioner compressor tensioning bracket. This bolt appears to be broken with head and 1/8" of thread shaft missing. Is there a procedure for removing this bolt without removing the rear fascia to gain access? If not then how big a job is it to remove the Rear Fascia. I guess if I remove it then I'll just take the opportunity to repaint the thing also. Thanks to Walt! Regards, Bobby Mims Tyler, Texas [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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