To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 15 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Water pump woes?
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
2. BTTF DVDs
From: Lance Haslewood <lanceh@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: HP Coils and Grounds
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
4. Re: Water pump woes?
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
5. Re: Bizarre electrical problem
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
6. Re: Stuck Door
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. RE: Water pump woes?
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
8. Woodward Ave DreamCruise 2002
From: "beatlesra1" <beatlesra1@xxxxxxx>
9. Attn: Ken (kkoncelik@something)
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Correct replica Flux Capacitor for sale!
From: jimbo0946@xxxxxxx
11. Re: Re: Electric Delorean and cost
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Gauge question
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Poll results for dmcnews
From: dmcnews
14. RE: Bizarre electrical problem
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxx>
15. iLL Fascia Panel for Temp Controls Anyone have one
From: silvercrw646@xxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 22:26:50 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Water pump woes?
There are two reasons that nothing would come out of the bleeder.
Either the bleeder is corroded inside and all plugged up so nothing
can get through or the level of coolant is so low that the pump is
airbound and is not circulating coolant. Take the bleeder screw out
and stick a piece of wire in and poke it around to make sure the hole
isn't plugged up with crud. With the motor off and enough coolant in
the system it should run out the bleeder now. Now look inside the
bleeder screw and make sure it isn't blocked up. Now you can bleed the
system. There should be no need to replace the water pump, at least
not for this. If it is the origional pump you might want to consider
replacing it and all of the associated hoses and seals and belts, it
is over 20 years old you know.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Andrew <aos+yahoo@xxxx> wrote:
> Recently I encountered my first oveheat problem, so I figured I'd
probably
> let the coolant level in my tank get too low and sucked up some air.
> Following a procedure discussed here numerous times, I attached a
rubber
> hose to the nipple on the bleeder screw, started the car, let it
warm up,
> then loosened the screw to let air out. To my surprise, nothing
came out
> at all. I loosened the screw to the point of removing it entirely.
> Nothing. No water, no air.
>
> The belt is definitely on and appropriately tight.
>
> Is there something else I should be checking, or is my water pump
history?
>
> -andrew
> #4115
> Houston TX
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 07:40:24 +1000
From: Lance Haslewood <lanceh@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: BTTF DVDs
The BTTF DVDs were released here in Australia last week. Three in the set
at around $AUS55 ($US25). Universal Studios are wanting to use my 'D' for
the official launch from 25 Aug to 01 Sep. Should be interesting!!
Lance Haslewood
Australia
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 19:17:21 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: HP Coils and Grounds
Gary, I'm glad to hear someone else say replacing the tired old coils in the
De Lorean is a good thing. I had mentioned several times in earlier post, but
it seems to fall on deaf ears. We complain about the performance of the car
but don't do anything about it till something's breaks. So many people are
driving around in a sluggish car when a few little inexpensive things can
bring it back to life. Tune up, coil, 02 sensor, fuel adjustment, injectors,
timing.and grounds but don't forget the B+ wires on the back of the
alternator. This is positive and when corrosion sets in this will give you a
higher voltage drop when your needing current. This is where the car gets
it's voltage from. Then when you want current, it isn't there.
It's nice to have the pulling sensation when shifting gears and all you have
done is just a little few little pre maintenance things. Mine drives that way
and has for years.
There are other things you can do to also enhance the performance of the car
on low end.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/engine.shtml
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 19:35:16 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Water pump woes?
Andrew, The water went somewhere. If it's so low that it wouldn't come out of
the bleeder screw, then you may want to look for a cracked freeze plug. But,
first I would refill the system and bleed out the air and watch it closely.
See if it happens again. How long did it take to get that way. When was the
last time you checked the coolant. If you haven't replaced the thermostat,
then I would. If it stuck at some point and you didn't notice it, then it may
have made the car boil over and loose most of the coolant when you didn't
notice it.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/engine.shtml
<< Recently I encountered my first overheat problem, so I figured I'd probably
let the coolant level in my tank get too low and sucked up some air.
Following a procedure discussed here numerous times, I attached a rubber
hose to the nipple on the bleeder screw, started the car, let it warm up,
then loosened the screw to let air out. To my surprise, nothing came out
at all. I loosened the screw to the point of removing it entirely.
Nothing. No water, no air. >>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 20:04:58 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Bizarre electrical problem
Martin, Take out the main relay and hook it up to a bench power supply, and
while it's hooked up turn the power supply off. The coil will let go but
sometimes the contacts won't for a second or two. And it's not because they
are burn't. I'm not an engineer, but this has puzzled me for a while. There
is so much capacity in the circuit, I think it's whats holding the contacts
together till it can bleed of.???
What do you or someone else thinks.
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/engine.shtml
<< On #2727 we're having a really bizarre problem. The ignition relay will
not turn off when the key is removed. If you un-plug the switched feed
to the relay, it of course turns the relay off, but plugging it back in
does not turn it back on. From this I assume the relay must be powering
itself somehow (turn it on and the supply it's switching is somehow fed
back to the coil).
>>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 20:27:50 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Stuck Door
Try shutting the door first. This may get the latch back into its correct
position so you can open it. It helps to have two people to solve stuck door
problems, one on the inside working the levers and one on the outside moving
the door up and down and working the handle.
What ever you do leave the pry bar under the workbench, that can only
completely f--- things up.
Dave Sontos
vin 02573
----- Original Message -----
From: wmack <wmack@xxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, August 17, 2002 10:43 AM
Subject: [DML] Stuck Door
> I still can't get my driver's door open. I have tried messing with the
rods
> and everything, and nothing works. I'm at the point now where I am
thinking
> of drilling out the old latch assembly from the inside. Has anyone tried
this
> before?
>
> Thanks
> Willie
> Vin 5043
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 19:42:12 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Water pump woes?
Make sure that the hole behind the bleeder screw is not plugged up. I
always found that it was easier to bleed the system by putting the rear
wheels up on blocks. Adding DMC Joes self bleeder is the best way to go.
Scott Mueller
002981
DOA 5031
-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew [mailto:aos+yahoo@xxxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, August 17, 2002 3:04 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Water pump woes?
Recently I encountered my first oveheat problem, so I figured I'd probably
let the coolant level in my tank get too low and sucked up some air.
Following a procedure discussed here numerous times, I attached a rubber
hose to the nipple on the bleeder screw, started the car, let it warm up,
then loosened the screw to let air out. To my surprise, nothing came out
at all. I loosened the screw to the point of removing it entirely.
Nothing. No water, no air.
The belt is definitely on and appropriately tight.
Is there something else I should be checking, or is my water pump history?
-andrew
#4115
Houston TX
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 01:37:02 -0000
From: "beatlesra1" <beatlesra1@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Woodward Ave DreamCruise 2002
Hi Everyone,
We just got back from the Woodward Ave Dream Cruise in Detroit MI and
what a day it was! They say there was 2,000,000 people there and
about 100,000 cars!!! the size of this thing is its unbelievable..My
Delorean and Tom Wilke's were very,very well received as we were
stopped numerous times for photo ops and questions[we even made it on
the radio!].
If you wanna witness something truly special, make plans for next
years event, you won't believe it!! We need to show them all the
Deloreans we can!!
Chuck Darling
Vin#6125
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 01:50:19 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Attn: Ken (kkoncelik@something)
Was experimenting on my D with water today, so I decided "what the
heck, as long as I'm flooding with H2O, might as well flood with gas
as well."
With the cold start valve jumped (and the coil unplugged) the engine
will start flooding with gas in a second or so (that's when I started
smelling it). If you're re-keying the ignition -- refilling the
accumulator -- and keep cranking, no telling how much is sloshing
around in there. Use the cold start valve sparingly. If you smell gas,
switch the plugs back. A car runs on vaporized fuel, not liquid. You
could use ether as an alternative (some people don't like it, but I
lived off the stuff until I found out what my starting problem was --
no check valve on my Volvo fuel pump. I still keep a can in the car).
Also make sure your problem isn't electrical. My experience (other
vehicles) has been 99% of car problems are electrical.
If anyone cares at this point, my moisture problem appears to be in
the electrical distributor. Car will start and run with a hose pipe
pouring some water on the resistor and relay (sorry Mr. Hervey) and
coil (can't open it wide or water will splash on the distributor and
eventually kill the car). Same volume on the distributor puts me out
of business. As long as it's not too much H20, can dry out with a heat
gun and experiment some more. It's been a busy afternoon in Bill's
driveway.
I also discovered the fuel distributor definitely has to come up to
get the cap off (and I've got formed steel fuel lines). Is it too late
to punch a Swede in the nose? (can't punch JZD because his lines were
rubber).
Living the dream...
Bill Robertson
#5939
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 21:54:18 EDT
From: jimbo0946@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Correct replica Flux Capacitor for sale!
( Moderator's note: let's keep the negotiations via private emails )
How much are you looking to sell it for?
Thanks,
Jimmy
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 22:14:59 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Electric Delorean and cost
Dear DMLers,
I asked this gentleman a couple of questions and here it is:
Joseph,
Thanks for your questions....below are the answers...I will keep you
informed....we plan to have a test at the Nashville Super Speedway within
the next two weeks....we rented the race track for a day.
Dear Real Life Doc Brown,
This is one of the most amazing things I have ever seen. I have a couple of
questions.
1. Did you do away with........
1. Fuel system.............yes
2. Engine....................yes
3. Cooling system....................yes...but added our own
transmission cooler system
2. Will this work for both manual and automatic cars?.................works
on both... this one is automatic
3. What did you mean by "No heat problems" during the testing?....I was
worried about heat problem from the electric motor....but with proper
venting it is very cool.
4. How the heck are you defying the very laws of energy by ending up with
more energy than you started with?....my invention keeps the battery charged
at full all the time no matter what you use
5. How is the air conditioner controlled? We use an electric AC
6. Are there many batteries and what do you expect the life of those
batteries to be?Total batteries are only 12....most electric cars require 24
to 56 ....we only use 12 and they are off the shelf type...Fully charged
batteries should last up to three years....battery cost is less than $56
each
7. Has the weight of the vehicle changed? Lighter, heavier or about the
same? 5.1 pounds lighter
8. How does the vacuum system on car operate?Operates the same...we
installed a vacuum pump for the brakes
9. Did you modify any part of the car visibly from interior or exterior
(excluding obvious engine compartments and lack of tailpipe) Car looks like
it should from the outside....no modifications at all.... the trunk has
three batteries.....back of driver 6 batteries incased in heavy Plexiglas
and vented...three in the rear...no tail pipe, no gas tank everything that
was not electric was taken off.
Is your fuel gauge now reading an electric fuel level?....No....we have
our own meters four of them that read amps and volts as well as RPM's
10. How long did it take you to build (without planning included) Three
weeks.....it took 2 months for drawings and planning.
11. How long did it take from idea to finish?......Three years for the car
idea ...over 18 years to finish up and construct the device that keeps the
batteries charged.
12. Are there any 0-60 times available. Is it slower off the line?...Have
not tested that yet....but we have reached 126 mph in one test until I
chickened out and slowed down
13. Do electric motor have a horsepower rating? If so, what do you expect
yours is?...Compared to a gas motor the electric motor is rated at 325 HP we
geared it down to around 135 as out first test we had to going 120 miles per
hour to get in 3rd gear.
Thank you again.
Joseph Molino
vin 2850
New Jersey
----- Original Message -----
From: "Palatinus, Joe" <jopalatinus@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, August 16, 2002 11:44 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Electric Delorean and cost
> In addition to my delorean expierences I have an old electric car from the
1982 world's fair that doesn't run. I started researching electric
vehicles, and discovered you can buy complete conversion kits (motor
batteries, and even instructions in some cases) for less than $3,000, and I
have seen such kits installed primarily in volkswagens. Most of the
conversions are manual transmision cars however, and still take advantage of
the stock transmission and clutch system.
>
> I have always thought an electric delorean would be neat, but it would
probably be really hot without air conditioning and perhaps underpowered as
well. I have not seen or heard of this electric delorean in TN before, but I
wouldn't be too quick to doubt the maker's claims about speed. Electric
motors can spin just as fast as gas ones. I am a little surprised by the
claim about power loss however, from the owner's description they kept the
disc brakes. Many of the electric cars I've seen have power generator that
help slow the car and recharge the batteries at the same time.
>
> Joe Palatinus
>
> VIN 17167 6808
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 02:19:32 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Gauge question
My oil and gas gauges are inoperative at the top of their scales, not
the bottom (oil pressure sending unit replaced with aftermarket gauge
by PO. Factory wire is still closeby and is still hot). I can jump
both, but that just moves the needles further into the top pegs. Are
my needles just 180 degrees off, or is something else going on? Is it
possible to reset the needles?
Bill Robertson
#5939
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: 18 Aug 2002 07:32:25 -0000
From: dmcnews
Subject: Poll results for dmcnews
The following dmcnews poll is now closed. Here are the
final results:
POLL QUESTION: Do you own a copy of Stainless Steel
Illusion?
CHOICES AND RESULTS
- Yes, 4 votes, 44.44%
- No, 5 votes, 55.56%
For more information about this group, please visit
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
For help with Yahoo! Groups, please visit
http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 21:04:04 -0700
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Bizarre electrical problem
Please excuse me if your troubleshooting has gone beyond what I'm about
to suggest. I'm not familiar with the specific circuit, and I haven't
followed all of the previous discussions, but I've done a lot of
troubleshooting on problems similar to this one.
You may be on the right track looking for a "sneak circuit" that's
keeping a voltage differential across the relay coil. Self-latching
relay circuits are designed to do what your relay is doing
inadvertently. You push a momentary-contact Start button, and the item
keeps running until you push the Stop button and break the coil circuit.
I think you've already determined this, but make sure you know if the
coil is normally grounded on one side and voltage is applied to actuate
it, or normally powered on one side and the other side is grounded to
actuate it. You have to know whether you're looking for power where it
shouldn't be or a ground where it shouldn't be.
Read the voltage across the coil, and from each side of the coil to a
good ground:
- Before the relay is latched.
- While the relay is supposed to be latched.
- When the relay should be unlatching.
You may find that the voltage differential necessary to keep the relay
latched is always present, but that it is not high enough to actually
pull the relay in to the latched position. It doesn't take much to hold
it in the latched position once it gets there.
At least you will have an indication of whether you have a full/partial
ground, minor leakage through a bad diode, partial voltage because the
sneak-circuit goes through another component, full voltage through a
shorted circuit, etc.
Feel free to email me privately.
Gary
www.IN2TIME.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 09:44:26 EDT
From: silvercrw646@xxxxxx
Subject: iLL Fascia Panel for Temp Controls Anyone have one
Hi I am looking for a nice condition iLL Fascia Panel for Temp Controls for
the console to replace mine. I am looking for one in Nice condition. ANyone
have one?
thanks
jon
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN