[DML] Digest Number 1161
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[DML] Digest Number 1161



Title: [DML] Digest Number 1161

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------------------------------------------------------------------------

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

      1. Re: weird...
           From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      2. Re: Deloreans in hawaii
           From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
      3. RE: real estate Delorean
           From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
      4. Re: Fw: First gear and reverse vibration
           From: "Chris D'Urso" <dursman@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      5. Starting Help
           From: "BDM" <bmims1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
      6. Re: Dead DeLorean
           From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
      7. Re: Starting help
           From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
      8. Re: Deloreans in Hawaii
           From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      9. Re: California Trip and Electric Delorean
           From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     10. RE: Re: strange ticking noise
           From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
     11. RE: California Trip
           From: "timnagin" <timnagin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     12. Re: Starting help
           From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
     13. Re: DeLorean Fuel Distributor for Sale
           From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
     14. Re: Dead DeLorean
           From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
     15. Re: Dead DeLorean
           From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
     16. Re: K-Jetronic EFI
           From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
     17. Re: Synthetic auto trans fluid
           From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
     18. Re: Starting help
           From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
     19. electric delorean webpage
           From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
     20. Re: Flux Capacitor !
           From: "_designer_" <_designer_@xxxxxxxxx>
     21. Live DeLorean (Attn: Martin Gutkowski)
           From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
     22. Re: Bizarre electrical problem
           From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
     23. Re: electric delorean webpage
           From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     24. Delorian Crazy in Au
           From: Lance Haslewood <lanceh@xxxxxxxxxxx>
     25. Gold Sunstar and more new stuff
           From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>


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Message: 1
   Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 07:09:37 -0400
   From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: weird...

maybe your  hazard switch is failing.  I had that happen to me when I first
purchased my car.  Half of the lights on the car wouldn't light.  Then a
replaced the switch and everything worked.  Maybe it could be a loose
ground.

Joseph
vin 2850

----- Original Message -----
From: <mcutting@xxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, August 16, 2002 6:56 AM
Subject: [DML] weird...


> hi folks..
>
> here's a weird one..  my four-way flashers have decided to only work on
the
> right hand side.  i have no bulbs burned out and the really weird thing is
that
> if i put the left flesher on while the four-ways are running, they all
operate..
>  even when the vehicle is not running.  any thoughts?
>
> mike cutting
> 11434
> http://www.nt.net
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




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Message: 2
   Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 11:14:01 -0000
   From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Deloreans in hawaii

Last I checked there was one on eBay. 



--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "deloreanman7777" <DavidBloom722@xxxx> wrote:
> any body know anyone who has a delorean in hawaii they want to sell
> or get rid of? i am looking for another project delorean,
>
> John
> Vin#2030
> Honolulu,Hi




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Message: 3
   Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 07:54:37 -0400
   From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: RE: real estate Delorean

I do

Best Wishes,
Michael Pack
RE/MAX Columbia
800-899-7629

clamfestival@xxxxxxx wrote:

>Does anyone know of anyone using their 'D' in the real estate business? Thank
>you.
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>



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Message: 4
   Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 11:59:49 +0000
   From: "Chris D'Urso" <dursman@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fw: First gear and reverse vibration

When I back out of my garage something will "clunk" while I'm going in
reverse.  Also, when I shift quickly from 1st to 2nd the tranny grinds also.
  I was thinking low on transmission fluid, but not sure.  I don't have the
vibration you speak of though.
-chris-
VIN 10213


>From: vegascop1@xxxxxxxxx
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: [DML] Fw: First gear and reverse vibration
>Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 06:01:56 -0500
>
> > Hello,
> >
> > I was wondering if anyone else has ever experienced this problem as I
> > am
> > right now.
> >
> > When I start the D, warm her up couple minutes and than start to back
> > out of
> > the garage I experience vibration from the rear. Also same goes when
> > I have
> > her out and put it in first gear its the same thing. When I get
> > rolling and I
> > want to put it in second really fast the tranny grinds! I dont know
> > what to
> > do, if anyone had the same problem or know what that might be please
> > let me
> > know. I consider myself an engine man not a tranny wiz so any help
> > will be
> > greatly appriciated!
> >
> > thnx again,
> > Ski VIN 4649
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com




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Message: 5
   Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 07:15:08 -0500
   From: "BDM" <bmims1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Starting Help

Ken,

      My car has almost the same symptoms.  I sent it to Houston to DeLorean Motor Company on a trailer.  The car would not start at all for serval days.  When the car was delivered in Houston it started right up and was driven off the trailer.  Steve Wynn advised that the inertia switch was shorted. 

    I authorized about $4,000 worth of other repairs on the car and drove it 200 miles home to Tyler, Texas.  A week later I started it to drive on some errands and the damn thing stalled again just like before and now sits in my driveway, after another tow job, and has the exact same symptoms as it had before I sent it to Houston.

    Warren at DMC advised about switching of the green and blue connectors but to no avail.

    I would appreciate being copied on any suggestions that you recieve. I am a little frustrated with DMC Houston on this repair but also understand our cars are now 20 years old.

Thanks,

Bobby D. Mims
Tyler, Texas

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
   Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 08:24:30 EDT
   From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Dead DeLorean

Bill, You can see the picture diagram of the resistor set up on my web site
and I just posted a memo last week of the wiring diagram also on the site of
the relay that helps start the car faster. The blue yellow wire from the
solenoid is what gives you the extra voltage on the left side of the resistor
to start the car, after it starts the car runs on the white wire voltage from
the main relay that goes to the right side of the resistor. Hope this helps.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/engine.shtml

<< No juice is entering the coil. Didn't check the resistor, but I did
 jump the coil straight from the battery post. Using a timing light
 determined no juice is leaving it. Electronic ignition module is next
 in line -- where's it located, and what is the test procedure? Could I
 just ground the coil and test for output?
  >>



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Message: 7
   Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 08:43:47 EDT
   From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Starting help

Ken, If the Idle is set ok ( 900 to 950 RPM ) then I would make sure the
microswitch screw is screwed in enough to trip the switch. Make sure the
connector on the idle speed motor is making good contact. Yes, You will need
to replace the TTS switch for cold starting. I have had a similar problem if
the air flow /control plunger isn't adjusted properly ( mabe give it 1/4 turn
to the right to enrich the system.)  The 1/4 turn will raise the control
plunger. Also, make sure you have no vacuum leaks. Last would be the warm-up
regulator, If it's never been changed it may be shot. That's why it's called
warm up regulator due to the control of the fuel pressure when cold. That's
my suggestions.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/

<< Are there any other thoughts at what may cause this.
 It appears to be a fuel starvation situation but then it corrects itself and
 purrs like a DeLorean with no stalling or hesitation.  That is the confusing
 part.  The above problems all would or should continue to persist no matter
 how hot it gets. >>



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Message: 8
   Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 12:47:25 -0000
   From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Deloreans in Hawaii

John,

You are a few days late for this one, but you may want to follow up
on it anyway, since new bidders to ebay often do not come through on
their first purchases, especially large purchases like Delorean cars.
Not saying that this person (wse90047) will not follow through, but I
know this does happen often.  I would contact the seller, since the
car is in Honolulu, HI as of this week.  Good Luck.

1983 Other Makes A-M : DeLorean   DMC12  DeLorean                  
Item # 1848485574

Bidding is closed for this item.  Auction has ended.

wse90047(0) is the winner.

Balance   US $6,190.00

Currently US $6,190.00    (reserve met)  

Started   Aug-02-02 09:00:57 PDT
ends      Aug-12-02 09:00:57 PDT
  
----------------------------------------------------

Later,
Rich W.


--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "deloreanman7777" <DavidBloom722@xxxx> wrote:
> any body know anyone who has a delorean in hawaii they want to sell
> or get rid of? i am looking for another project delorean,
>
> John
> Vin#2030
> Honolulu,Hi




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Message: 9
   Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 12:58:55 -0000
   From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: California Trip and Electric Delorean

FYI,

Electric Delorean was converted from a near mint condition, 21K miles
car that was in very good mechanical condition.  It has the original
window sticker, an OEM car cover and some memorabilia DMC paperwork
that came with the car when it was recently purchased.

Carl Tilley said the website should have video posted by Friday or
Saturday.  Should be interesting to see, from a project stand-point.
Oh well, I guess I will not have the "First" Electric Delorean at
Ken's show in 2004.

BTW: The Delorean that was used in this conversion is VIN...05426.

Later,
Rich W.


--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "timnagin" <timnagin@xxxx> wrote:
> Ian,
>
> You could look for the electric De Lorean and give an eye witness
report.
>
> Greg
>





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Message: 10
   Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 09:04:08 -0400
   From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: strange ticking noise

Thanks. This is a good starting point. As long as I can get an idea of where
to begin, I think the rest will be somewhat intuitive. (I hope.)

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Christian Williams [mailto:delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2002 6:42 PM
> To: 'dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx'
> Subject: RE: [DML] Re: strange ticking noise

> First, start by clipping the clips onto the rear brake pads. The middle of
> the "spring" clips onto the middle of the top of the brake pad........

-Christian




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Message: 11
   Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 10:03:19 -0400
   From: "timnagin" <timnagin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: California Trip

Jeremy,

I have no affiliation with this organization, just learned about it through
a business associate.

http://www.tilleyfoundation.com

Greg



-----Original Message-----
From: jeremys_im [mailto:jeremysmail@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2002 10:53 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] California Trip


Electric Delorean !!! ???

Ok I thought of  doing this for a car that the engine was just gone
on but never got around to it.

So has someone actually done this? What's the details? I'm
here in Los Angeles and could check this out for the group.

Jeremy


--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "timnagin" <timnagin@xxxx> wrote:
> Ian,
>
> You could look for the electric De Lorean and give an eye
witness report.
>
> Greg




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Message: 12
   Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 14:17:01 -0000
   From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Starting help

It sounds like the car has multiple problems in the fuel system. Until
you get a pressure gauge set-up on it and see the pressures under the
different conditions you will be guessing as to what to do or replace.
Do a though visual check for proper routing and connections of all
hoses and wires. Make sure there are no massive vacuum leaks. Knowing
the recent history of the car before this all happened might also help
like was someone messing around with it and where or maybe the car was
sitting for a long time or maybe it ran like cr-p anyway and now there
is another problem on top of all the others. Look inside the fuel tank
and see if it is full of "dead" fuel and crud. ALL parts are suspected
bad until proven good. Start at the fuel tank, that is where most
problems begin, evidence of dirt there means it is everywhere and that
is the biggest killer. A mixture screw way out of adjustment will
cause some of your symptoms, make sure that there is a plug in the
housing over it too.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxx, kkoncelik@xxxx wrote:
> OK
> here is a problem
> Not on my car its for someone else
> I think I have an idea what it is so here goes.
>
> The car will not start cold (or hot for that matter)
> When starting the car nothing happens. 
> The fuel tank has been recently changed out and the fuel does flow
and seems
> to be working ok ( fuel pump working )
>
> If I change the connectors for the cold start fuel injector and
energize it
> (switch the blue and light green connectors) it starts indicating
fuel is
> getting in at that point but it does not stay running.
>
> Assumption the fuel distributor may be sticking a bit.
>
> Now if I start the car with the wires switched and give it a little
gas pedal
> (although this really should not help) it stays running some times.
The
> starting process may need three four or five times to start.
>
> It runs real rough and sounds like (no pun intended) its not running
on all
> cylinders.
> After maybe 30 seconds to three minutes it begins to clear up and
you can hit
> the accelerator a bit more and then a bit more.
> Then it Revs and the everything is fine and it idles great and you
can shut
> it off and start it as long as you don't let it set for a few
minutes.  (five
> min. minimum)
> Then you repeat the process.
>
> I haven't had time to run fuel pressures or anything like that but I
am
> assuming it is possible a sticking fuel distributor.  The car does
no run a
> lot.
>
> Wires and plugs are old and will be replaced but if they were
totally trash
> then the car would not start anyway.  (Have the parts and plan to
rebuild)
>
> Unlikely water in the distributor cap (Car is in the desert)
>
> I have eliminated the accumulator as it has been replaced not to
long ago and
> the problem is more a cold start.
>
> The fuel pump appears to be working but I really need to do a
pressure check.
>
> The cold start thermal switch is shot, that is a given and why the
crossing
> of wires works.
>
> Are there any other thoughts at what may cause this.
> It appears to be a fuel starvation situation but then it corrects
itself and
> purrs like a DeLorean with no stalling or hesitation.  That is the
confusing
> part.  Teh above problems all would or should continue to persist no
matter
> how hot it gets.
>
> That is where the distributor theory gets shot down.
>
> thanks
>
> Ken
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 13
   Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 10:20:15 EDT
   From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DeLorean Fuel Distributor for Sale

Shain and Group, Yes I do buy fuel distributors,warm-up regulators,
connectors for the fuel system, sending units and other related parts.
Example I just sent out my last fuel sending unit remaned for $150.00. I also
want old starters and some other electrical items. I don't hoard them as it
should be obvious I sell them on the web site at a reasonable price. I
professionally recondition all the parts and make them available to the De
Lorean community. I don't stock pile the parts so I can charge a higher price
later. So if you have any related parts and want to exchange them for
something I have you need, I will be happy to make a trade also.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/ 



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Message: 14
   Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 14:23:50 -0000
   From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Dead DeLorean

OK Martin, I told you sometimes I am a rocket scientist. Obviously a
permanently grounded coil would never generate a spark.

Am somewhat puzzled why coil wouldn't spark when fed a new hot wire.
Based on another concurrent post, ignition module must be the "ECU"
box behind my driver's seat. As such, shouldn't be susceptible itself
to moisture. Could have problems with line in from the distributor,
however.

Didn't have tech manual in the car last night. May have learned a
valuable lesson -- keep your DMC Bible in the vehicle at all times
(and an ice pick light, and a volt meter, and...)

Obvious culprit would be the resistor (I know where it is NOW), yet
coil didn't spark when bypassed. Coil itself is almost brand new, so
don't suspect it (unless a bad resistor allowed it to melt). Didn't
take a volt meter back to the car last night -- will run some
resistance at lunch.

How can such a simple ignition circuit cause so much trouble?

BTW: why did you take your glovebox out, and what valuable lessons can
you share should I ever feel led to do the same?

BBTW: accessing my electrical distributor should be twice as much fun
because I have formed steel lines to/from the fuel distributor, not
rubber. Guess I'll have to take them all loose. Oh boy.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>Could I
> just ground the coil and test for output?
>
 
> > I posted instructions on how to access the dizzy about a month ago.
> One thing to check
> > first: Are your ballast resistors plugged in properly and does that
> relay mounted the the
> > left of them work?
> >
> > Martin
> > #1458
> >




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Message: 15
   Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 14:24:01 -0000
   From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Dead DeLorean

If you are sure it is an ignition problem the 2 most common problem
areas are the connections on the ballast resistors and a
bad-intermittant pick-up coil inside the distributer. Make sure the
connections on the resistors are clean and tight and make sure the
pick-up coil isn't open (it has a measurable resistance). If all this
checks out the ECU MAY be bad. Only good test is to substitute a known
good one. Before you do that make sure all the inputs (voltage sources
and grounds) are there. Least likely but possible is a bad coil.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx> wrote:
> Well Martin, I've got a dead DeLorean in the church parking lot.
> Either the rain or my wayward ways have gotten me.
>
> No juice is entering the coil. Didn't check the resistor, but I did
> jump the coil straight from the battery post. Using a timing light
> determined no juice is leaving it. Electronic ignition module is
next
> in line -- where's it located, and what is the test procedure? Could
I
> just ground the coil and test for output?
>
> Don't think the pastor wanted to mess with my little silver car at
> 10:00 on a rainy night.
>
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
>
> >--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx> wrote:
> > Hi Bill
> >
> > I posted instructions on how to access the dizzy about a month
ago.
> One thing to check
> > first: Are your ballast resistors plugged in properly and does
that
> relay mounted the the
> > left of them work?
> >
> > Martin
> > #1458
> >




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Message: 16
   Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 14:31:22 -0000
   From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: K-Jetronic EFI

This looks interesting but what is it supposed to accomplish? If you
have a properly set-up and running fuel and ignition system what
further enhancement does this device provide? Does it improve
emmisions, economy or performance? It definatly will reduce
reliability as it adds another layer of complexity over the mechanical
fuel injection AND the ignition. All of these types of add-ons cannot
work if put onto a system that isn't operating correctly in the first
place so what is the point?
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi Robert
>
> I have mentioned this a couple of times in the mast. The
manufacturer is Milford
> Microsystems and I spoke to them a short while ago.
http://www.milford.ndirect.co.uk/
>
> I also asked the engineer who hopefully will be working on
performance upgrades on the
> PRV what he thought of this system, and he basically said "it looks
like a good product
> for a modified engine [Island twin people take note] but it can't
compete with a
> retro-fitted modern EFI system".
>
> It sits in the control pressure line and can dynamically adjust the
control pressure
> "fooling" the metering plate to deflect more or less dependent on an
electronic map.
> Unfortunately the person I spoke to could not confirm whether the
ignition control system
> would work on our uneven firing engine..
>
> Martin
> #1458
>
> therealdmcvegas wrote:
>
> > Since this only seems to be available across the pond in the UK,
does
> > anyone there have any experience with this product?
> >
> > http://www.tsr-performance.com/k_star.html
> >
> > Off hand, it looks like a 2nd frequency valve to control the
mixture,
> > but is does say that it helps inprove performance.
> >
> > -Robert
> > vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 17
   Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 14:46:08 -0000
   From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Synthetic auto trans fluid

Since you cannot completly drain the old fluid out I think it is not a
good idea to mix the synthetic with the old Dexron. If you did a
rebuild and started off with all synthetic there may be some benefits
but to not be able to remove all of the old fluid and only add a small
amount of synthetic probably isn't recomended by the maker of the
synthetic oil. If the old fluid isn't burnt or discolored then it is
best to just stay with Dexron. What is most important is not to
overfill or underfill and NEVER overheat. Clean out any friction
materiel and inspect for metal in the sludge and the chip magnet.
Remember on an automatic you also have to check the gear oil level in
the final drive. If you have enough miles on the car you may want to
change that.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Delorean17@xxxx wrote:
> Hi List,   
>     I am going to change my trans fluid soon and I was curious to
know if
> putting 100% synthetic Amsoil trans fluid in it will hurt anything.
 It is
> fairly pricey but I have been very happy with their stuff in my
other cars. 
> Before I go ahead and do this I just wanted to make sure I am not
going to
> hurt it.
>    
> Thanks
>
> David
> Grand Rapids, MI




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Message: 18
   Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 16:11:33 -0000
   From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Starting help

I've only had my car home two weeks (with issues of its own), but
here's a few tidbits I've learned in that short time:

The fuel pump does operate until it gets a signal that the engine is
running. There's a short burst when the car is first energized (I
guess to prime the system), but then it's just you and the accumulator
until the RPM relay turns it loose. Your throttle action with the cold
start valve jumped may be misleading -- you could be living off gas
that was injected directly into the manifold, not vaporized gas from
the fuel distributor.

By repeatedly cranking with the cold start injector jumped you may be
flooding the engine. A properly functioning thermal switch only
grounds it for a short time. That could be the source of your "rough
running" until all the extra gas (liquid) is consumed. Throttle action
there may be the only thing keeping it running (air). Over reliance on
the cold start injector could foul the plugs too -- it's a potent
enough brew to smell.

Re: wandering idle -- can't help you there because I'm missing the
gizmo DeLorean used to adjust automatically (idle speed regulator?).
Have seen a stock vehicle in action, however, and the car does indeed
search for an "optimum" setting. I think it accomplishes this with
air, not actually pressing on the throttle lever (there's a device
there too, but I think its only a switch -- also missing from my
rendition).
Is your idle speed circuit OK? Anybody know if the gizmo can be
deactivated on a factory engine?

When you replaced the pump did you replace its boot? The old one can
crumble while in the tank. If not caught by the fuel filter, those
pieces will end up in your fuel distributor or injectors. The DeLorean
vendors aren't just being rententive here -- replace them together.

Folks with years of experience will hopefully respond with more/better. 

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxx, kkoncelik@xxxx wrote:
> OK
> here is a problem
> Not on my car its for someone else
> I think I have an idea what it is so here goes.
>
> The car will not start cold (or hot for that matter)
> When starting the car nothing happens. 
> The fuel tank has been recently changed out and the fuel does flow
and seems
> to be working ok ( fuel pump working )
>
> If I change the connectors for the cold start fuel injector and
energize it
> (switch the blue and light green connectors) it starts indicating
fuel is
> getting in at that point but it does not stay running.
>
> Assumption the fuel distributor may be sticking a bit.
>
> Now if I start the car with the wires switched and give it a little
gas pedal
> (although this really should not help) it stays running some times. The
> starting process may need three four or five times to start.
>
> It runs real rough and sounds like (no pun intended) its not running
on all
> cylinders.
> After maybe 30 seconds to three minutes it begins to clear up and
you can hit
> the accelerator a bit more and then a bit more.
> Then it Revs and the everything is fine and it idles great and you
can shut
> it off and start it as long as you don't let it set for a few
minutes.  (five
> min. minimum)
> Then you repeat the process.
>
> I haven't had time to run fuel pressures or anything like that but I am
> assuming it is possible a sticking fuel distributor.  The car does
no run a
> lot.
>
> Wires and plugs are old and will be replaced but if they were
totally trash
> then the car would not start anyway.  (Have the parts and plan to
rebuild)
>
> Unlikely water in the distributor cap (Car is in the desert)
>
> I have eliminated the accumulator as it has been replaced not to
long ago and
> the problem is more a cold start.
>
> The fuel pump appears to be working but I really need to do a
pressure check.
>
> The cold start thermal switch is shot, that is a given and why the
crossing
> of wires works.
>
> Are there any other thoughts at what may cause this.
> It appears to be a fuel starvation situation but then it corrects
itself and
> purrs like a DeLorean with no stalling or hesitation.  That is the
confusing
> part.  Teh above problems all would or should continue to persist no
matter
> how hot it gets.
>
> That is where the distributor theory gets shot down.
>
> thanks
>
> Ken
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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________________________________________________________________________

Message: 19
   Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 16:53:49 -0000
   From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: electric delorean webpage

http://www.tilleyfoundation.com/

does anyone else think this is a load of crap?  I mean, 127mph on an
electric engine that doesn't need to be recharged at all and just
runs off of batteries? 





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________________________________________________________________________

Message: 20
   Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 17:51:00 -0000
   From: "_designer_" <_designer_@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Flux Capacitor !

Good job, Eric!

I'm also working on a flux capacitor, but it is a little more
pricey.  I will be posting the development pics at
http://www.humansinprogress.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?fid=6
For those interested, I'm incorporating "Lava Neon" tubes from
Streetglow.  These tubes are really amazing... not the cheap stuff
that you can buy at Pep Boys.  The neon arc inside actually looks
like lava flowing around.  They aren't cheap (at $40 a tube), but the
reults should put even the most self-righteous heckler to shame!




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Message: 21
   Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 18:17:58 -0000
   From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Live DeLorean (Attn: Martin Gutkowski)

Talk about Fair Weather Friends (and I thought the B-2 bomber was the
only piece of machinery that couldn't stand getting wet)...

The sun is shining, the birds are chirping, and #5939 is home in
Bill's driveway.

Attn: Martin Gutkowski -- would you be willing to correspond about my
little situation? A British electician may be just what I need (can
you spell "wet weather"). If so, please eMail me direct:
brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx (no sense in wasting the group's bandwidth).

Attn: any other waterlicians (John Hervey?) -- feel free to eMail too.

FWIW: with the pastor staring over my shoulder last night I did not
pull the resistor line off the coil to ensure 12v OK. Too late now (is
12v in the sun). My temporary line from the positive jump post was
also just wedged in, not bolted, so it may not have been making good
contact. You work with the tools at hand.

Are we living the dream yet?

Bill Robertson
#5939







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________________________________________________________________________

Message: 22
   Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 19:42:12 -0000
   From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Bizarre electrical problem

My guess is "Jack The Ripper" was the last person to work on the
wiring in this Delorean! Once you start looking at the wiring you will
find all kinds of crossfeeds and wiring problems. Start at the source,
the battery, and move to the fuseblock, plugs and wiring harnesses.
Make sure all of the ground connections are intact. When you have
problems like this you have to assume that there are "repairs" all
over so you must inspect everything. Be sure of the correct size fuse
in the right spots and same goes for bulbs. Many of our cars have gone
through several hands and not all knew what they were doing. It is
also possible that there is a problem in a wiring harness, either it
got caught in something and some wires are shorting or maybe even a
section got melted. Nothing can substitute for a THOURGH visual and
physical inspection of all the wiring and hidden areas. This can take
a while but that may be what it takes to find all of the problems. Be
careful with the wiring diagrams, there are some subtle errors on them
and they are mostly for the 81's. This problem is also a drain on the
battery and if it sits too long will kill it. Undocumented
modifacations are the worst, like alarms, hidden switches, auxilliary
functions, radios, etc. Best thing to do is disconnect them and hope
problems go away.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx> wrote:
> Switching itself? Not switching when the trigger is reattached? Are
> you sure the relay itself isn't sick? Can Rich borrow one of
yours...
>
> Re: wiring diagrams -- we all love to reinvent our automobiles
(myself
> included). Sometimes it's safety. Sometimes it's survival (have you
> considered simply switching that relay's trigger from under the
dash?)
> The down side is we end up with wiring diagrams of dubious
usefulness.
> Goober, the friendly neighborhood Volvo mechanic, played with my
> harness in the engine compartment when he swapped PRV's, but I'm
> finding all sorts of electrical surprises in places I don't think
> Goober ever went. Of course I'm just making matters worse with
hidden
> headlight switches (finally fried the dash switch BTW -- thank





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Message: 23
   Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 18:03:25 -0400
   From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: electric delorean webpage

I don't see why anybody would embellish the truth on something like this.
The world would find out, anyway.  I want my delorean converted.   I assume
this would only work on an automatic though.

Joseph
vin 2850


----- Original Message -----
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, August 16, 2002 12:53 PM
Subject: [DML] electric delorean webpage


> http://www.tilleyfoundation.com/
>
> does anyone else think this is a load of crap?  I mean, 127mph on an
> electric engine that doesn't need to be recharged at all and just
> runs off of batteries?
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




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________________________________________________________________________

Message: 24
   Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 08:27:00 +1000
   From: Lance Haslewood <lanceh@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorian Crazy in Au

Hi Christian,

Thank you for your comments re my DeLorean.   There are several DeLoreans
in Australia, in fact more than I had previously thought.  There are at
least five in the Sydney area that I know of, one of which was recently
converted to RHD here in Sydney.  The finished job is superb, but it comes
at a price!!

One Sydney owner claims his car to be an original factory RHD, and having
seen it, the car carries all of the hallmarks of a factory RHD.   My
DeLorean was converted to RHD in the US and shipped here in the mid
80s.  It's a five speed and the conversion was excellently done with no
visible 'shortcuts'.

If you are interested in info on importing a DeLorean, I can put you onto a
fellow in Darwin who had just imported one from the US.

I must contra your comment about registering LHD cars in Australia.   I
believe the law has now changed in New South Wales and LHD cars are
permitted to be registered and not display the once compulsory 'LEFT HAND
DRIVE' rear and front stickers.

Contact me if I can help you further.

Lance Haslewood
02 4574 1851
0414 295 888


At 10:55 AM 16/08/02 +1000, you wrote:

>Hi Lance,
>
>I have just been looking at your website... Nice DeLorian :)
>
>CC
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: David Swingle [mailto:dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
>Sent: Friday, 16 August 2002 10:25 AM
>To: Christian Catchpole
>Cc:
>Subject: Re: Delorian Crazy in Au
>
>
>Christian
>
>There are a couple of people on the DeLorean Mailing list that have
>DeLoreans in Austrailia. Seems that a couple were converted in the US and
>then carried over, one may be one of the original factory efforts. OThers
>have been converted, seems the main issue is the steering rack but no matter
>what it's not easy.
>
>Lance lanceh@xxxxxxxxxxx  seems to be the most frequent poster to the list.
>I'll
>copy him on this reply, maybe you can get in touch.
>
>Dave Swingle
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Christian Catchpole" <christian@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>To: <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2002 2:23 AM
>Subject: Delorian Crazy
>
>
>
>Hi,
>
>I live in Australia and am considering importing a Delorian... we have a
>slight issue here.. you cant register left hand drive vehicles unless they
>are vintage (30+ years old).  Has anyone any idea of the probability of
>Right Hand Drive conversions?  Asthetics are issue (if DMC Texas have any
>right hand parts left over from the 8 they made).   The other issue, is the
>chassis set up for it.  I can only presume it's possible if they planned to
>use the same design for left and right hand production.
>
>Thanks,
>Christian




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________________________________________________________________________

Message: 25
   Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 17:13:42 -0500
   From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Gold Sunstar and more new stuff

Finally got a few pictures up on the site with the gold Sunstar. They are
expected to arrive the end of September, same price as the BTTF car, $35.95.
Also put a photo of the new tank sender online, too. They are due in the
last week of this month, $129.00. The new key blanks should be here in
September, too, at $9.95 each.

The new shirts and keychains we had in Memphis are on there now, too, as is
the new gaskets we had made and the rearview mirrors, too. Look for two or
three more neat newly remanufactured (and lower priced) items before the
holidays, too.

Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.

James Espey
NOTE OUR NEW ADDRESS/PHONE NUMBERS
DeLorean Motor Company
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396

281/441-2537 Voice
281/441-2813 Fax
800/USA-DMC1
http://www.delorean.com




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________________________________________________________________________



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