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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Delorean Car Show Guidelines -(Long)
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
2. Re: purchasing experiences from SpecialTAuto?
From: beatlesra1@xxxxxxx
3. RE: Driver Door lights
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
4. Air conditioning
From: "Graham WELLS" <gwells@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. RE: Delorean Depot?
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Delorean Depot?
From: "Aaron Crocco" <slider_ten@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Delorean Car Show Guidelines -(Long)
From: "William F. Lane" <blane@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. More DeLorean Car Show Pictures
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Delorean Car Show Guidelines -(Long)
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. cracks in rear bumper need fixing
From: "fluxmcfly" <bfreyguy@xxxxxxx>
11. Delorean Radiator Story - Nationwide Delorean Shop Chain?
From: "iqmpike" <iqmpike@xxxxxxxxx>
12. Transmission and Oil question
From: "iqmpike" <iqmpike@xxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: purchasing experiences from SpecialTAuto?
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Brake problem (kinda long)
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. RE: Driver Door lights
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
16. RE: Re: Delorean Car Show Guidelines -(Long)
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Another Memphis Update
From: Hank Breer <hbreer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Re: Delorean Car Show Guidelines -(Newbie)
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
19. Re: Transmission and Oil question
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
20. Re: purchasing experiences from SpecialTAuto?
From: "iqmpike" <iqmpike@xxxxxxxxx>
21. Curtis - Owner of the Sweet-Red D
From: "iqmpike" <iqmpike@xxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: cracks in rear bumper need fixing
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Re: Transmission and Oil question
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
24. Re: Transmission and Oil question
From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Re: Delorean Depot?
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 17:28:25 EDT
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Delorean Car Show Guidelines -(Long)
Hi
I just wanted to thank Marty for helping me on this project. We did the same
thing last time and reviewed it with the owners at the My Classic Car Show in
Evansville.
This show however did not even closely resemble Cleveland and I wish I had
more awards for the participants in the different catagories. We did make a
few changes and remade a few trophies on the spot but we missed a lot.
The Daily driver catagory did great. It was evenly split and seemed to go
well and my judges had no problems with picking winners. The catagories in
modified classes even though we arranged them based on Cleveland left
something to be desired and that is a good thing indicating we still are
growing. Time was also a huge factor and one thing I try not to do is force
you to stay by your car all day. As long as its open it gets judged and you
don't have to be there that is one of my criterias.
The only request I have then I am going to bow out and let Marty and you the
owners help devise the catagories we need for modified is to ask for people
to judge these catagories or who do you think should.
My thoughts and I will leave it go from here is that there are a few poeple
like maybe Curtis and Dave Tietelbaum (hope I spelled you right) that have a
lot of experience. There are others that have done great engine mods, and
others Like Rich that go well beyond (D-Rex). Are these the people to judge
the car or do I get a few more judges like I had at the previous shows.
Remember owners as judges don't get to see much of the show.
George Crane went over real well and the two teams we had, had the hired
judges doing daily drivers and DeLorean related people doing some of the
specialty cars.
Just a thought.
In Memphis I never really pushed for any cars like I did Cleveland and what
showed up was as big of a surprise to you as it was to me.
So I have a challenge now
Lets make Pigeon Forge the biggest DeLorean Car Show ever. The area is know
for sponsoring car show events every weekend. If every owner that came had
brought their DeLorean we would have had around 260 cars. So we have the
numbers now lets go do it and I will be glad to reward you for your efforts.
The other question (Trophies or Plaques) this is part of the dilema as well
so for the next show you decide. This year was kinda a combination with
graphic trophies.
What kind of fun awards do you want.
Again thanks for coming to Memphis
and now that I have survived the largest crowd I have ever dealt with in a
show
We will be better prepared for you in Pigeon Forge.
Remember this is new to me as well and I am learning as well so lets do it
together.
Mistakes will be made and they can be corrected
Memories are made at these shows and they can't be taken away.
Thankyouverymuch
Ken
deloreancarshow.com (hotel information)
PS preview to Pigeon Forge
I am getting some information on the Turbo and the DeLorean for Pigoen Forge
and again much of what will be show will not be material that has been seen
before as a group and in some cases ever publically. If you have a turbo and
want to be included please send me a photo (electronic is fine) and anything
you want to say about it and I will include what I can in the presentation.
This is another thread but how many turbos are out there and how many
differet brands, makes or modifications????
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 17:29:32 EDT
From: beatlesra1@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: purchasing experiences from SpecialTAuto?
John Hervey is a great guy to buy parts from and he is always willing to help
with any questions you may have, I've dealt with John for over a year now and
will continue to do so and I recommend him highly to you
Chuck Darling
Vin# 6125
.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 16:30:10 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Driver Door lights
Unhooking the diodes did not turn off the lights and both driver door
switches were disconnected.
The lights are on and nobody is home.
Scott
-----Original Message-----
From: Walter Coe [mailto:Whalt@xxxxxxx]
Subject: Re: [DML] Driver Door lights
> I have replaced the three diodes (red, blue and black) that are on the
> drivers side of the center consol, and the lights stay on.
What happens when you disconnect any one or all three diodes? Does that
turn the light off?
Walt
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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 23:18:16 +0100
From: "Graham WELLS" <gwells@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Air conditioning
A small problem has appeared. The aircon works beautifully with the car
stationary, and blows nice cool air whether you rev the engine or if it
is at idle. When you are driving, however, cool air flows nicely but
when you accelerate, the cool air becomes warmer, and when you
decelerate the air goes cool again. I thought at first that it might be
a vacuum problem, i.e. when accelerating, vacuum obviously decreases,
and if there were a leak then it might have an effect on the flap
positions. However it appears to be more related to vehicle movement.
Might it need regassing? It cycles regularily as one would expect with
no indications of being low in gas.
Any ideas?
Graham Wells
VIN 17152
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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 17:19:16 -0700
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Delorean Depot?
Is it better to sell 10 of something at $80 dollars (that cost you $60)
or only 5 at $100 bucks. Do the math.
Gary
www.IN3TIME.com
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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 00:34:32 +0000
From: "Aaron Crocco" <slider_ten@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delorean Depot?
Mike,
I can understand how you'd like to have the vendors cut us some breaks on
the pricing and yes I will agree that buying parts can be costly for this
car. I refer back to a thread we had about a month ago where people were
talking about the prices and the general concensus (spelling?) was that it's
better to spend $110 on PJ Grady or DMCH door pistons that will work and are
Delorean made than buy $50 "brand x" pistons that could ruin your torsion
bar from overcharging.
Anyhow... I fully believe, and working for PJ Grady last year showed me this
first hand, that we don't deserve a discount at all due to 'vendors showing
us their appreciation'. If you call ANY vendor, they will sit with you and
diagnose your problem and give you all the help you need, FOR FREE. I don't
know if you're into computers, but I am, and anytime I need help from a
company I have to pony up my Mastercard # before they'll even speak to me.
But if you need to speak to DMC Joe about why your car won't start, he'll
tell you how to fix it, in detail, and not even ask if you're going to buy
something. THAT is the apprecation we get. I'd take the free advice of the
professionals over discounts any day.
Now if only I could get a hold of Bill Gates to ask how to fix my "blue
screens" in Windows, I'd be a much more happier customer.
-Aaron Crocco
NY Plate: OUTATYM
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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 21:50:54 -0700
From: "William F. Lane" <blane@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delorean Car Show Guidelines -(Long)
Marty,
I'm sure you will receive lots of good feedback about the Memphis show.
After I have thought about your post, I'm sure I'll be able to give my
positive feedback.
One question that I do have, for the moment, is that I was told by
someone (I can't remember who) that we would be receiving feedback on
the judging of our cars so that we can work on their deficiencies for
the next show. I haven't heard anything yet. Will that info be
forthcoming?
Thanks for the job that You and the other Judges did in Memphis!
Bill Lane (William F. Lane)
VIN 3635
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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 20:01:51 -0700
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: More DeLorean Car Show Pictures
I just uploaded another 50 pictures to the DeLorean Car Show site.
The new page includes a lot more pictures of the attendees.
I've put two of Ken's favorites at the top of the page.
The first three people who find themselves get a Free Ticket. *
http://deloreancarshow.com/2002-more.html
* Contest Rules
1) Finding a "picture" of yourself on the site doesn't count.
2) The "Free Ticket" isn't good for anything - it's just free.
3) When you've "found yourself" - please respond very privately.
http://deloreancarshow.com/2002-more.html
Gary
www.IN2TIME.com
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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 04:07:20 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delorean Car Show Guidelines -(Long)
Am D-newbie, so please overlook any ignorance...
Pigeon Forge will be my first show. Plan to drive my fine new ride,
but unless there's a "you've got to be kidding" class, I think I'll be
directed to park around back at the kitchen entrance.
Seriously, is there a place at DeLorean shows for roadable cars in
"daily" service that are not show quality, and which the owners do not
want judged? Went to one AMC show (yes, I also collect AMC's -- hail
to the fallen flags), and was told rather disdainfully to park in the
general lot. Received compliments from the public on the way to their
minivans, but felt rather ostracized by the professionals. That show
was also my last.
IMHO people who own & drive service vehicles to a show should at least
be given a recognized area in which to park. Yes, our vehicles are
less than perfect, but they *ARE* in service (cars are not intended
from the factory to be prima donna museum pieces. They are made to be
driven, so in some respects we're honoring the maker more than people
who show up on trailers). Could a parking lot of service vehicles make
as much of an impression as a parking lot of pretties?
Bill Robertson
#5939
> This is the question we want to present to the DML. What adjustments
need to be made to the current car show guidelines to allow all the
participants to have a fun and enjoyable time and also a feeling of fair and equal treatment when it comes to car show awards.
>
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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 05:43:45 -0000
From: "fluxmcfly" <bfreyguy@xxxxxxx>
Subject: cracks in rear bumper need fixing
Has anybody ever fixed any cracks in there bumper? I have a very
small crack in the lower part of the rear bumper by the exhuast. I
am wondering if this crack can be fixed with a fiberglass bondo from
underneath the back, then use some type of body filler for the
outside? My bumper is in excellent shape and hopefully I can make
something work rather than buying a new bumper. Any ideas will be
very helpful,
Thank you
Brian
bfreyguy@xxxxxxx
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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 06:03:02 -0000
From: "iqmpike" <iqmpike@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean Radiator Story - Nationwide Delorean Shop Chain?
Greetings all!
A couple of things... I am no mechanic (I am a computer programmer),
and have no mechanical ability what so ever...
Because I do not trust anyone to work on my Delorean, I have always
done the work myself...
Well, last week I bought a radiator from PJ Grady.... and lets just
say changing a radiator on a Delorean is NOT a project for someone
who doesn't know what they are doing...
After being frustrated, and HOPING it was a hose (which I could and
did change), I faced the fact my radiator needed replaced...
Again, worried about where the delorean goes, I finally chose
MIDAS... mainly because they were the only shop that would work on a
Delorean... here in NM I called 7 radiator shops, and as soon as they
heard Delorean, all of them said, "I'd prefer not to mess with that."
Midas took my call at noon, and told me to bring the car in at
4pm.... I got there about 4pm, and they had it done at 7:15pm... and
it only costed me a total of $150! (AND they put in an alternator
from SpecialTAuto!)...
Anyhow... the reason I am going into this story... a lot of people
are like me, and do not live close to a Delorean shop....
Midas ALLOWS you in the shop, and ALLOWS you to watch them work on
your car.... the first mechanic who wanted to work on the car (many
anxious folks wanting to see a Delorean), said he was competent and
had a certification...
I gave him the shop manual, and said, go ahead.... he told me, "I
don't need a shop manual"...
I figured oh well, and went and watched from the waiting room.... he
started trying to take off the front fascia! I ran outside and
said, "No, I told you it comes OUT from the bottom, that's why I
brought it in... if I could lift it out I would have done it myself.)
At that point, another mechanic (younger guy, probably 25ish) comes
over and looks at it... he was a Master Tech, certified, and had a
passion for his work... he told me he was working in a shop since he
was 8 years old, with his dad.... I had a good feeling about him...
He had the old radiator off, all the hoses replaced, and the new
radiator on in about 1.5 hours. All while inviting me out to see
parts of my car I had never seen before!
I know from personal experience, someone who has been doing something
their whole life, and loves it, is 5000 times better than someone who
took a class and learned it over night. (I run into "IT
Professionals" all the time that have an MCSE (Microsoft training),
and think they are the best, and they are some of the worst people I
have met....while I can have a 14 year old student who loves
computers, and knows more than 99% of the grads I know).. so it
stands to reason this guy was a pro... he was self taught, and had
the certification as well...
ANYHOW, to make a long story a little shorter.... MIDAS shops around
the country are willing to work on Delorean's, and they do NOT charge
an arm and a leg... they also let you come into the shops, and watch
the entire time.
Needless to say, I have this guy's name, phone #, etc, and I will
continue to work with him, and this MIDAS shop until I move to an
area it's not feasible anymore.
They let me pick the mechanic, and were not "buttholes" about it.
They let me watch my car without feeling alienated... and best (and
most important) of all, took care of my car, and treated it how I
would have.
So, I guess if you don't live in CA, TX, GA, or NJ (where major
Delorean dealerships are), MIDAS gets a HUGE thumbs up from me and my
baby D.
Mike
michaelkqkq(at)hotmail.com
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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 06:07:14 -0000
From: "iqmpike" <iqmpike@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Transmission and Oil question
Quick question for the group... I have heard MANY storied on what
kind of oil to put in the Delorean.. I have heard 10W50, 5W30, etc...
I went and bought 7 quarts of Penzoil 5W30 SYNTHETIC oil....
My car has 5300 miles on it.
Is synthetic OK to put in a delorean, or is regular oil better?
What IS the correct weight? (I live in New Mexico, where it is warm).
Every car I have I have put Slick 50 in, and they all last over
190,000 miles.... is it safe to put in my Delorean as well?
And last, what kind of transmission fluid should I use? (I have an
automatic)... and, is the slick50 transmission protection additive
safe to use?
I don't want rotted seals.
thanks!
Mike
michaelkqkq(at)hotmail.com
(reply via email as well if you like, I want to change my oil this
weekend, and the moderators may not approve your message right away)
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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 23:56:48 -0700
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: purchasing experiences from SpecialTAuto?
I have never had a problem with anything I've purchased from
specialtauto.com John Hervey has been most helpful with many of my
problems and all of his custom parts seem to be built with excellent
quality. There's a lot of vendors I want to support, but each has their own
unique service to offer the DeLorean community. It's comforting to know
people care enough to constantly improve thier products.
If you want to know more about what I've purchased, feel free to E-mail me.
John will always be happy to answer any questions you have as well.
bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx
Brandon Payne
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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 16:40:41 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Brake problem (kinda long)
BTW this was with the pads removed. Sorry I missed out that bit. This allows the pots to come
out further than they would under normal circumstances.
Martin
#1458
Martin Gutkowski wrote:
> I'm no huge expert but my car's calipers were jammed when it arrived. I COULD move the
> calipers but only by pumping the pedal hard and in rapid succession.
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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 16:30:08 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Driver Door lights
Sorry, I meant fuse #12.
Scott
-----Original Message-----
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx [mailto:dherv10@xxxxxxx]
Subject: Re: [DML] Driver Door lights
Scott, I noticed your pulling #7 fuse and the technical manual shows #12
fuse powering the circuit.
John Hervey
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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 12:04:44 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Delorean Car Show Guidelines -(Long)
If you own a DeLorean, you park with the DeLoreans.. This is the way Ken has always done it.
In Memphis, he went back to the hotel to make sure ALL of the DeLoreans were parked at the show, even if they were not competing.
-----Original Message-----
From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, July 21, 2002 12:07 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: Delorean Car Show Guidelines -(Long)
<SNIP>
Seriously, is there a place at DeLorean shows for roadable cars in
"daily" service that are not show quality, and which the owners do not
want judged? Went to one AMC show (yes, I also collect AMC's -- hail
to the fallen flags), and was told rather disdainfully to park in the
general lot. Received compliments from the public on the way to their
minivans, but felt rather ostracized by the professionals. That show
was also my last.
<SNIP>
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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 10:08:53 -0700
From: Hank Breer <hbreer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Another Memphis Update
For those of you who ordered our DeLorean Afghan at the Memphis show, I
have good news! Our supplier delivered our order on Friday and we
shipped most of the orders Saturday - priority mail. The balance will
go out on Monday.
For anyone else who is interested, please contact me at
mailto:hbreer(AT)ix.netcom.com or mailto:mbreer(AT)eatoncanyon.com We should
have pictures available by the end of the week.
See you at Pigeon Forge!
Hank & Mimi Breer
VIN 1141
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 13:29:20 EDT
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Delorean Car Show Guidelines -(Newbie)
In a message dated 7/21/02 10:50:38 AM Central Daylight Time,
brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
>
> Am D-newbie, so please overlook any ignorance...
>
> Pigeon Forge will be my first show. Plan to drive my fine new ride,
> but unless there's a "you've got to be kidding" class, I think I'll be
> directed to park around back at the kitchen entrance.
>
> Seriously, is there a place at DeLorean shows for roadable cars in
> "daily" service that are not show quality, and which the owners do not
> want judged?
Bill,
Yep, Ken has a place for everyone. If you want to enter the show there
is a category in the show called the "Daily Driver" class and it is normally
broken down into additional classes based on mileage, so your car competes
against other cars with similar mileage. If you'd like to enter the show but
don't want to have your car judged, that's fine also. You are still
encouraged to bring your car and park it on the show field with all the other
Deloreans. The intent of Ken's show is to display all the Deloreans together
in one place, weather they are competing in the show or not. He wants
everyone to participate and have an enjoyable time.
Marty
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 13:54:09 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Transmission and Oil question
In a message dated 7/21/02 10:55:27 AM Central Daylight Time,
iqmpike@xxxxxxxxx writes:
> Quick question for the group... I have heard MANY storied on what
> kind of oil to put in the Delorean.. I have heard 10W50, 5W30, etc...
>
> I went and bought 7 quarts of Penzoil 5W30 SYNTHETIC oil....
>
...> And last, what kind of transmission fluid should I use? (I have an
> automatic)... and, is the slick50 transmission protection additive
> safe to use?
> thanks!
> Mike
>
Mike -
I am a store manager for Jiffy Lube and i think i can answer all of your
questions -
1. the correct weight of oil for the vehicle varies with the climate at
which you live in. this is important to follow because if you live in a cold
part of the country (below 14 deg F for much of the year) you will want to
have an oil with a smaller first number, as in 5W-30, the 5 is the smallest
common weight for the W (winter viscosity), so that will flow to the upper
cams and jets quicker than a heavy oil (such as 20W-50) from a cold start.
this all leads to engine wear protection. the faster the oil gets there, the
better. the second number is the 'summer' viscosity, or the viscosity the
oil runs at when the engine is at operating temperature. if the engine is
started in a 'summer climate' temperature, the first number really means
nothing because the oil isn't that cold. all of the above is in general if
the vehicle does not specifically state a preferred viscosity. you should
always go with what the manufacturer recommends. sometimes the preferred
weight is also required to achieve low-emissions certification or for better
fuel economy. for instance, the newest fords and hondas (2002 and newer) are
preferring 5W-20 oil YEAR ROUND!! most other makes like chrysler and GM
recommend 5W-30 or 10W-30, depending on the climate. for the DeLorean, the
shop manual and the owner's manual provide a chart for determining a correct
weight of oil to use. i only drive my car in the spring, summer, fall so i
chose a weight in the middle of the climate chart which described my region's
temperature levels. i choose to run 10W-40 oil. your choice my vary
depeding on your climate and which weights of oil are actually available in
today's market (it is not easy to find 20W-50 or some of those super-heavy
oils anymore). personally i wouldn't go with anything heavier than 15W-40.
that's already some pretty thick stuff!! i just personally feel safer with
something a little thinner in there, knowing it's getting lubricated well at
start-up. for you in new mexico (or was it arizona...) i would probably go
with 10W-40 or 15W-40.
as far as what brand of oil, it's not that big a deal. as long as it is API
certified it should be ok. it's all a matter of personal preference. the
whole debate over 'oil with parafin in it' is a big joke. i won't get into
it but don't listen to any of it, it's something blown way out of proportion.
also with synthetic, i don't see any reason why not to run it if you want
to. some people say if you have an oil engine and you start running
synthetic in it, it will leak. well it might but that's because every
molecule of synthetic oil is the same size as opposed to the cluster-fk of
stuff in conventional oil - the synthetic oil isn't thinner, it's just that
it's easier to flow thru seals. get it?
the most important thing with oil, by far, is not what brand, type, weight
(to a point), etc etc. the most important thing is the change your oil AND
filter every 3000 miles OR three months, whichever comes first. also when
you drain the oil, pour a quart of fresh oil thru the engine and let it run
out the drain hole. this will flush the last bit of sludge in your pan out.
also when you tighten the drain plug, don't over tighten it or you may strip
the pan!
as for slick 50 or other oil/crankcase additives - i would avoid it.
especially anything with teflon in it. it will probably boast that it has
teflon in it if it does. dupont themselves even state that teflon is not for
use in internal combustion engines, but everyene uses it that way anyway.
while it may be safe and ok, i'd rather not wonder about it the rest of my
life and i just leave it all alone.
as for the tranny, there are TWO types of oil in it!! the torque converter
and gears are bathed in Dexron II ATF. Dexron II was superceded by Dexron
III ATF and became the factory OEM tranny fluid in domestic vehicles around
1993 i believe. Dexron III has the qualities of II only it is even better
and has better temperature withstanding qualities. your tranny will be just
fine with Dexron III, available at any auto parts store.
then there is the final drive. the final drive is very similar to a
differential only it is built into the tranny as more or less one piece.
when a transmission contains a seperate final drive, as in the DeLorean, the
transmission is now called a transaxle. the shop manual recommends using
80W-90 gear oil. this is also in the same fluid in the steering rack and
pinion. if i were you i would probably put synthetic gear oil in, it's a
little tougher than regular petroleum-based oil. synthetic is a 75W-90
weight oil.
this was long but i hope i explained everything thoroughly for you!!
Later,
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 19:08:37 -0000
From: "iqmpike" <iqmpike@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: purchasing experiences from SpecialTAuto?
Well, I can add in my two cents worth here...
I looked and looked for an Alternator, after rebuilding my Duce 3
times (trying to keep original), and having to keep a charger on my
car so the battery wouldn't die, I decided it was time for a change..
SpecialTAuto had a great price, for a powerful unit.... he is ALWAYS
there to answer questions (even at NIGHT).. he gives his cell phone
number out in case you run into a problem, and encourages you to use
it...
On top of that, he is a nice guy.
I've heard stories about everyone... but I tend to judge for myself,
and John at SpecialT has two thumbs up in my book.
Keep it up John!
Mike
michaelkqkq(at)hotmail.com
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Payne" <bpayne@xxxx> wrote:
> I have never had a problem with anything I've purchased from
> specialtauto.com John Hervey has been most helpful with many of
my
> problems and all of his custom parts seem to be built with excellent
> quality. There's a lot of vendors I want to support, but each has
their own
> unique service to offer the DeLorean community. It's comforting to
know
> people care enough to constantly improve thier products.
>
> If you want to know more about what I've purchased, feel free to E-
mail me.
> John will always be happy to answer any questions you have as well.
> bpayne@xxxx
> Brandon Payne
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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 19:15:19 -0000
From: "iqmpike" <iqmpike@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Curtis - Owner of the Sweet-Red D
Does anyone (or if you are reading it Curtis) have Curtis's email
address?
I had some questions.... of you know how to get a hold of him, please
drop me a note at:
michaelkqkq(at)hotmail.com
thanks!
mike
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Message: 22
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 21:25:17 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: cracks in rear bumper need fixing
Loctite 406 is a very strong instant adhesive that worked great on my front fascia, and I
had quite a large tear.
Martin
#1458
fluxmcfly wrote:
> Has anybody ever fixed any cracks in there bumper?
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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 20:23:58 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Transmission and Oil question
I don't know what the climate in New Mexico is like. But being a
southwestern state, I think that oil weight is a bit light to use. As
far as regular vs. synthetic goes, beats me! I just use regular
Castrol GTX. Although given the climate I'm in, and my driving
habits, I use 20w50. For the proper oil range, check the archives for
the reccomendation list.
As far as oil additives go, stay away from them! All that you'll need
to keep the motor running fine is going to come in the bottle of oil
you buy. Slick 50, Prolong, Dura Lube, Z-Max, and others are a waste
of time and money. The only additive I've ever used was CSL. And even
then, I noticed only a tiny difference in improvement. Small enough
that it may have all been in my mind... If you've already got a
bottle of Slick 50, I'd just take it back.
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
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Message: 24
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 15:31:36 -0500
From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Transmission and Oil question
The original specifications called for 20w50 oil in warm climates.
Lubricants have improved in the 20 years since so 5w30 may be ok but I've
used Mobile One 15w50 synthetic ever since it was available and have never
experienced a problem. Slick 50, in my opinion, would best describe the
marketing guru that sells it. If engine durability could be had in a bottle
the auto manufacturers would have gobbled it up years ago. Warranty costs
are a major detriment to the profitability of the car companies and they'll
do anything they can do to reduce that cost. I don't think additives like
Slick 50 will do any harm but I do feel they're a total waste of money.
Bruce Benson
> I went and bought 7 quarts of Penzoil 5W30 SYNTHETIC oil....
>
> Is synthetic OK to put in a delorean, or is regular oil better?
>
> What IS the correct weight? (I live in New Mexico, where it is warm).
>
> Every car I have I have put Slick 50 in, and they all last over
> 190,000 miles.... is it safe to put in my Delorean as well?
> Mike
>
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Message: 25
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 20:25:53 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delorean Depot?
From time to time we see people post complaints about the high price
of parts. Try pricing parts for your daily driver from the Dealer.
Many times he won't even have what you need in stock so it can take
from 3 days to 2 weeks to get what you need. For the most part when
you order from a "D" vender you can get almost anything overnight!
When you try the "Crossover Method" of getting parts from the
neighborhood auto store the parts don't always fit or work correctly.
If you start replacing things "shotgun style" in the hopes of fixing a
problem you can actually be causing more problems!
There have been times in the past when some of the venders had deals.
In 1998 when DMC Houston had the warehouse sale in Cleaveland many
parts were sold below normal pricing. Many venders will "cut a break"
if you place 1 large order all at once, say over $1000. Not only do
you save any sales tax but they also can work with you on the
shipping. There are also some people selling some used parts for a
significant savings over N.O.S. if you can use them. If you bought a
car needing a lot of work and parts this is the cost of getting it
into shape so the purchase price should have reflected this. Don't
forget in buying from the "D" venders you have the use of their #800
and their time to explain what you need and how to fix the car. For
the most part they also stand behind their parts and service so if you
do buy from them they will usually do what it takes to satisfy you as
a customer. When you buy from the parts store MAYBE they will take the
part back if it isn't electrical and you didn't mess it up too bad and
you still have the box?
There is also the point to make that if we as owners of Deloreans
don't patronize the Delorean venders who will? And if we don't then
they may no longer be around when you finally realize you do need
them. In many cases the parts they sell are even cheaper then you can
find locally, the oil filter comes to mind as a great example. Every
owner should have at least 1 in his garage along with a Workshop
manual and a Parts Manual. Even if you don't know how to read them
they will be invaluable to the shop you take the car to. Try and get
them from your local parts store!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Aaron Crocco" <slider_ten@xxxx> wrote:
> Mike,
>
> I can understand how you'd like to have the vendors cut us some
breaks on
> the pricing and yes I will agree that buying parts can be costly for
this
> car. I refer back to a thread we had about a month ago where people
were
> talking about the prices and the general concensus (spelling?) was
that it's
> better to spend $110 on PJ Grady or DMCH door pistons that will work
and are
> Delorean made than buy $50 "brand x" pistons that could ruin your
torsion
> bar from overcharging.
...
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