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moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Mode switch
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. looking for owner in Mt.View
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia@xxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Re: Where is the common electrical leak?
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. RE: R-134a Conversion -- as a kit?
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. RE: A/C question
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: R-134a Conversion -- as a kit?
From: Robert Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. RE: Re: Where is the common electrical leak?
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. RE: how do you fix cracks in lower engine cover?
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Mode switch
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Re: Where is the common electrical leak?
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Mode switch
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
12. Re: Re: Where is the common electrical leak?
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
13. Re: Re: Brake Master Cylinder Rebuild Kits?
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
14. Those dat-blamed cargo nets
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: OEM rims in larger sizes
From: <jarvist@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. **tear 1982 DMC for sale
From: "sml5150" <sk1pper@xxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: PROJECT DELOREAN : NEW HOME, NEW SITE
From: "Mike Aninger" <mike@xxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Mode switch
From: "dtt2150" <dtt2150@xxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Brake Master Cylinder Rebuild Kits?
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: Where is the common electrical leak?
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: how do you fix cracks in lower engine cover?
From: "basfe25" <drrub46@xxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Need help finding drilled brake discs & digital dashes...
From: "_designer_" <_designer_@xxxxxxxxx>
23. DMC in another movie
From: "Ian Foster" <ian@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: Brake Master Cylinder Rebuild Kits?
From: "basfe25" <drrub46@xxxxxxxxxxx>
25. What to look for in a DeLorean
From: "willinot" <willinot@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 07:09:21 +0100
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Mode switch
I used a rubber/silicone lubricant, which comes in a spray can. I Cleaned
the whole diaphragm sprayed both sides and dabbed off the excess. works fine
now.
Cheers
Paul
#6463
www.paul.salsbury.btinternet.co.uk
----- Original Message -----
From: "dtt2150" <dtt2150@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 10:20 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Mode switch
> Do you grease the flat part or the one with the grooves. What grease
> would you use?
>
> thanks
>
> Mike
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, dherv10@xxxx wrote:
> > Paul, I've taken several apart and cleaned them also, did you
> grease the
> > rubber diaphragm before putting it back together. Most of the time
> they only
> > go back one way. You might also look at the pictures on my Talk &
> View page
> > under reference, it might help.
> > John Hervey
> > http://www.specialtauto.com/ref_main.shtml
> >
> > << So I've taken my mode switch apart and the diaphragm was clogged
> with dirt
> > and grim and a bit sticky, it's now all cleaned up and looking
> new....
> >
> > Put it together and its worse than before, could I have put it
> back in the
> > wrong setting?? if so how can I check if its right and line it up
> with the
> > right vacuum outlets?? >>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 23:43:57 -0700
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: looking for owner in Mt.View
Hi all,
I just wanted to try to find the owner of the Delorean that is currently in
for a water pump at the arco gas station on shoreline road in mt.view.
darkstar
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 10:09:04 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Where is the common electrical leak?
Hi again Joe
Please fell free to examine the circuit diagram here
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/graphics/lockcircR1.jpg
It clearly shows that the fat red power supply wire is nothing more than
the feed which is switched by the relays on the module. It is NOT the
power supply to the module, that is pin 4 (marked "vio" for "violet") at
the upper left. Trust me, I've re-built several of these and have a
solid understanding of how they work.
I actually recommended un-plugging both the harness and the red wire, because there is still a remote possibility of the relays "chattering" (perhaps going over a big bump) and powering up the solenoids.
I would recommend anyone who wants a srronger understanding of this device should look at the DMC News tech section where there's an in-depth description of this circuit's operation.
I also completely agree that in its stock form, the lock module should NOT be used, even if it apparently works fine.
Martin
#1458
DMC Joe wrote:
>Martin,
>
>You said:
> "...Hi Joe, sorry but this is not correct. ..............The red
>wire is simply the power supply to the solenoids."
>
>I respectfully disagree.
>
> The red 12 volt wire powers the lock module. The purple wire, which
>feeds the solenoids, is on the output side of the module therefore once the
>red wire is unplugged all power to the circuit is removed.
>
<snip>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 07:23:11 -0500
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: R-134a Conversion -- as a kit?
yup! Except it does blow cold enough to keep me comfortable on a hot humid
Houston day.
I gas the system up about three or four times a year, but not a full can of
it either. It's been a year and a half since changeover. I didn't do
everything that the "experts" recommend changing. We simply drained the
system via a pump and pressurized with the new gas.
I never thought that the hoses were porous. I'm not sure about that. How did
you come to that conclusion?
-----Original Message-----
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx [mailto:wingd2@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 7:26 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] R-134a Conversion -- as a kit?
How many of you folks would be interested in a complete R-134a conversion
kit
for the DMC?
I think a R-134 "kit" is a great idea, but here is a little additional
information for what it's worth:
We converted a Delorean over to R-134 about 4 years ago to see how it
would
perform. We did all the regular stuff required to do the conversion
correctly, like replace the oil and all the O-rings and the dryer and all
the
other stuff required and then charged the system up with R134. The results
are the car has run fine for the last 4 years and 40,000 or so miles. The AC
system puts out a decent amount of cold air and it will keep the interior
comfortable on a normal Midwest summer day of 85 or so, but it definitely
does not perform as well as the R-12 systems in regards to cold air output,
but we kinda expected that going in to all this. The one "problem" we have
run into is the original hoses on the car are porous enough that they allow
the R-134 to seep out over time, causing the system to run low on
refrigerant. And this "problem" seems to have gotten worse as time has gone
on. We are to the point now that in order to keep the system operating
correctly we are having to add a small (12oz) can of R-134 to the system
once
a month. And, yes, we have checked everything over, and, no, there are no
other leaks in the system. As time goes on it seems the original R-12 hoses
are loosing there ability to contain the R-134 more all the time.
Does anyone else have any similar experiences with this ?
Marty
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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To search the archives or view files, log in at
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 08:19:58 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: A/C question
If the system is empty, I'd replace all of the O ring seals with the newer green style. Check the orifice tube, and change that if it looks clogged or torn.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx [mailto:Delorean17@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 5:47 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] A/C question
>
>
> Hi,
> My AC system was working fine but unfortunately I had to
> vacuum the R12
> out while cleaning out my evaporator box. A friend of mine
> is letting me use
> his 30lb tank of R12 to refill the system next week. Before
> I re-charge it,
> what parts in the system should I replace? Last time it was
> charged I had it
> leak tested and none were found so hopefully it hasn't
> changed. I would
> really appreciate any info on what I should replace and where
> I can get the
> parts.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 07:28:29 -0500
From: Robert Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: R-134a Conversion -- as a kit?
>
>
>Marty
>
My experience has been the same. My cars used to leak about 1 lb of R12
per year. Now they leak 3 lbs of 134a. THis means that the ozone
depleating benefits of 134a are reduced by 66%.
I have noticed that on newer cars there is much less rubber hose and
more aluminum piping. Since by definition rubber hose has some
porousity, I have figured that this was done just as a good measure for
the environment. However, experience has now shown that this was done
because 134 does leak through hoses more easily.
Now to redesign the hoses and replace them with metal.....
BoB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 07:33:23 -0500
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Where is the common electrical leak?
>I also completely agree that in its stock form, the lock module should NOT
be used,
>even if it apparently works fine.
?
Why is that? I can't recall seeing that discussion although perhaps that was
one of the threads that required a flamesuit to read. (and I tend to go
DELETE).
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 08:29:49 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: how do you fix cracks in lower engine cover?
I expect a good fiberglass person could repair the cover (I hope so, I have a cracked one too).
You can remove the hinge from the car from the inside. You need to remove the trim panel from the rear shelf to access the nuts that hold the hinge to the fiberglass body.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fluxmcfly [mailto:bfreyguy@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 8:27 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] how do you fix cracks in lower engine cover?
>
>
> I have one crack in my lower engine cover and one bolt is broken off
> the hinge.How can you fix this crack,can you use bondo or
> some type fiberglass.Does anybody know how to remove the hinge from
> the car? Any help would be appreciated very much.
> thank you Brian
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 14:08:19 -0000
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Mode switch
A great all-around rubber treatment is something called Gummi-
phledge - a German product available at your local BMW dealer. Good
for door seals too.
Dave Swingle
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxx> wrote:
> I used a rubber/silicone lubricant, which comes in a spray can. I
Cleaned
> the whole diaphragm sprayed both sides and dabbed off the excess.
works fine
> now.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 10:14:05 -0400
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Where is the common electrical leak?
>the lock module should NOT be used,even if it apparently works fine.
> Why is that?
Because it has a near 100% failure rate, and can, without warning, fail, and
lock you inside your car. And at the same time burn out both your lock
solenoids. Someone wasn't paying attention in class. ;)
-Hank
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 10:26:44 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Mode switch
Mike, After cleaning all the parts and replacing the diaphgram, I use
Vasaline from the medicine cabine. Very light amount on the flats and the
diaphgram it's self.
John
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 10:39:37 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Where is the common electrical leak?
Martin,
Thanks for your detailed explanation. Although I'm not completely convinced
that the situation is as you say I will admit that you have obviously done
more research on the lock module than I have. Once Fanzilla came along it
appeared that any attempts to fix the design flaws of the original module
were not cost effective. For this reason I put the door lock module in the
same category as the fan fail module, original window motor regulators, and
the Ducelliar alternator. When replacing these items on cars in for service
I just threw them into by dead parts bin.
If you have need for door lock modules for rebuilding I have a box full;
what do you think they are worth?
For everyone who is observing this series of posts your not going to see any
confrontation between Martin and DMC Joe. I have a great deal of respect for
Martin and enjoy this exchange of information for the betterment of the
DeLorean automobile.
What's most important to all is that Martin and I both agree that
disconnecting all of the connections to the door lock module is the surest
way not to become victim to all of its deficiencies, and to quote Martin: "I
also completely agree that in its stock form, the lock module should NOT be
used, even if it apparently works fine".
Respectfully,
DMC Joe, Help Club
DeLorean Web Mall: http://www.geocities.com/dmcjoe/home.html
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv
----- Original Message -----
From: "Martin Gutkowski" <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: <dmc_electrics@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2002 5:09 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Where is the common electrical leak?
> Hi again Joe
>
> Please fell free to examine the circuit diagram here
>
> http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/graphics/lockcircR1.jpg
>
> It clearly shows that the fat red power supply wire is nothing more than
> the feed which is switched by the relays on the module. It is NOT the
> power supply to the module, that is pin 4 (marked "vio" for "violet") at
> the upper left. Trust me, I've re-built several of these and have a
> solid understanding of how they work.
>
> I actually recommended un-plugging both the harness and the red wire,
because there is still a remote possibility of the relays "chattering"
(perhaps going over a big bump) and powering up the solenoids.
>
> I would recommend anyone who wants a srronger understanding of this device
should look at the DMC News tech section where there's an in-depth
description of this circuit's operation.
>
> I also completely agree that in its stock form, the lock module should NOT
be used, even if it apparently works fine.
>
> Martin
> #1458
>
> DMC Joe wrote:
>
> >Martin,
> >
> >You said:
> > "...Hi Joe, sorry but this is not correct. ..............The red
> >wire is simply the power supply to the solenoids."
> >
> >I respectfully disagree.
> >
> > The red 12 volt wire powers the lock module. The purple wire,
which
> >feeds the solenoids, is on the output side of the module therefore once
the
> >red wire is unplugged all power to the circuit is removed.
> >
>
> <snip>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 08:03:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Brake Master Cylinder Rebuild Kits?
I HAVE NEVER FELT THAT THE MOTIVES OF THE VENDORS WHO
ARE ON THE LIST HAVE CONFLICTED WITH MY MOTIVES.
And, I don't think that generalizations that state
such have any place upon the list.
Unlike Toby, Jim, and others, I am mechanically
disadvantaged. While I don't want to see "pop-ups",
price lists, etc., I WANT the input of DMC Joe,
Darryl, DMC Houston, Rob Grady, etc. I also want to
the input of the those who, though not vendors, have
great expertise. I'll sort through it and make my own
decisions.
Please - let's limit the DML discussions to those
things for which it was intended. As in any exchange
of ideas, toes will occasionally get stepped upon and
noses will get tweaked. Hey, that's life.
I think Martin's note of today said it well. (So, I've
not had a pint before writing this and I did reread
it.)
Dick Ryan
PS Martin, the way the exchange rate is going, your
input may be worth even more than 3p.
--- jwit6@xxxxxx wrote:
If you sell
> something, and it's not open
> source, or you make a profit from the mebership,
> then you are a vendor and
> your motives conflict with those of the membership
> and the list.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 10:46:49 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Those dat-blamed cargo nets
I found a nice website for replacing your bungee cord that holds your cargo
net into place. My net is fine but the cord is rotted, and I didn't want to
spend that crazy bread to get a whole new one. The black 3/16's is only
$.35 a foot. Check it out:
http://htbbungeecords.bizland.com/store/bulkcord.html
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 11:17:00 -0400
From: <jarvist@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: OEM rims in larger sizes
In reference to the recent poll on parts desired, Mike A. wrote that he would
like to see the OEM-style rims in the larger sizes 15/16" or 16/17", and I am
one who would like to see the same.
I have been searching out anything (that might fit) that approximates the OEM,
but have not had much luck. The lower profile would update and I feel add
positively to the aesthetics and handling of the original design.
My concern is what that ultimate price would be for the wheels considering the
relative few of us who would want to make that change.
Steve Jarvis
#3542
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 15:37:39 -0000
From: "sml5150" <sk1pper@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: **tear 1982 DMC for sale
ok, she will officially be ready on Saturday to go on sale. Ive fixed
and repaired all teh items needed to make her a great daily driver. I
do have a few little things to do, but nothing major (ie. kick
plates, trim, repalce a burnt out bulb, etc.)
I will take the first $11k offered. I know its worth more, but I have
some new treatments that will put me out for a few months, so I
really need to sell it fast. Please if you know anyoe that is
interested in a really nice car, let me know.
Skipper
skipper(at)sk1pper.com www.sk1pper.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 12:08:10 -0400
From: "Mike Aninger" <mike@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: PROJECT DELOREAN : NEW HOME, NEW SITE
Very nice site, Steve! User friendly and pleasing to the eye. As and
aspiring owner (it may take a few years), it's a great site to find great
vendors, get some good tips. I like the one with the elustrius fuel
destributer ;-). I'm surprized that those are the ONLY problems you have
encountered! Will you provide more links as you find them, or just stick to
the ones that you use? Best of luck and I hope to see you in 2004, hopefuly
in my own D!
-Mike A.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Stankiewicz" <protodelorean@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 11:54 PM
Subject: [DML] PROJECT DELOREAN : NEW HOME, NEW SITE
> Hi Group, First I'd like to thank everyone who's
> posted pics from the Memphis show. Project Delorean
> was far from ready and my schedule just didn't permit
> me to go, but it's been great seeing the shots of all
> the cars. Thanks again!
>
> I'd also like to announce that Project Delorean has a
> new look and a new home. I was sick of the
> ever-increasing pop-up ads on Angelfire so I finally
> purchased a domain. Initially I was just going to
> migrate the existing site over to the new host, but I
> was tired of the look so I decided to rebuild the site
> as I migrated. It took longer, but I think you'll all
> agree the new site is better. The new site is at:
> www.projectdelorean.com
>
> Finally, as a quick update, I've been fabricating the
> new exhaust system lately. It's a 2" / 2 1/2" system
> which follows the original path, retains and relocates
> the cat and exits with a single pipe in the center.
> (Similar to one of the early Delorean prototypes)
> Check it out at: www.projectdelorean.com
>
> Thanks, Steve
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
> http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 16:57:51 -0000
From: "dtt2150" <dtt2150@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Mode switch
Thanks for all the advice. I think the net has created a second life
for the Delorean. There is so much information out there that, one
thinks the car is still in production. I wonder if there is a forum
where people list what substitute parts have been used when one is
not readily available.
thanks again,
Mike
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, dherv10@xxxx wrote:
> Mike, After cleaning all the parts and replacing the diaphgram, I
use
> Vasaline from the medicine cabine. Very light amount on the flats
and the
> diaphgram it's self.
> John
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 18:53:20 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Brake Master Cylinder Rebuild Kits?
Another reason that you do not want to rebuild the master cylinder is
very often the internal bore of the master cylinder is pitted and
corroded making rebuilding by just throwing in some new parts
impossible. I have also seen on some cars (not on Deloreans) that
after rebuilding master cylinders for some reason they just don't
last. To avoid future problems flush the system every 2 years with DOT
4 Castrol GTLMA especially if you don't use the car often.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
\
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, jwit6@xxxx wrote:
> .
> Complete assy is available at autozone. Duralast 11-2329 AutoZone
had it for
> $71, with a $45 refundable core charge.This is the same MC as a 1986
SAAB 900
> Brake master cylinder #707950
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 19:01:01 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Where is the common electrical leak?
IMHO the most common electrical "leak" is that when the doors are
closed the 3 lights in the door remain on. If you keep the courtesy
lights in the "off" position inside the car you won't even know the
door lights are on. This occurs because the rubber caps on the plunger
switches are missing or worn so they aren't pushed all the way in. If
you have trouble with the battery always going dead pull the wires to
the door switches and see if the battery is OK after a week. The other
common problem is that the battery is just bad and cannot hold a full
charge anymore. This is VERY common as most Deloreans aren't used on a
regular basis so the battery is always in a chronic state of
undercharge. Getting a battery load test will tell you about the
battery but if it is over 4 years old it is probably time to replace
it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxx> wrote:
> >the lock module should NOT be used,even if it apparently works
fine.
> > Why is that?
>
> Because it has a near 100% failure rate, and can, without warning,
fail, and
> lock you inside your car. And at the same time burn out both your
lock
> solenoids. Someone wasn't paying attention in class. ;)
>
> -Hank
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 19:18:37 -0000
From: "basfe25" <drrub46@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: how do you fix cracks in lower engine cover?
I've used JB Weld epoxy. The stuff is extremely strong (if mixed
properly) can be sanded, drilled and painted and best of all it's
cheap and you can do it yourself. I would try that first...I've used
it to fix a large crack on the lower engine cover along with a crack
in the louver.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxx> wrote:
> I expect a good fiberglass person could repair the cover (I hope
so, I have a cracked one too).
>
> You can remove the hinge from the car from the inside. You need
to remove the trim panel from the rear shelf to access the nuts that
hold the hinge to the fiberglass body.
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: fluxmcfly [mailto:bfreyguy@a...]
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 8:27 PM
> > To: dmcnews@xxxx
> > Subject: [DML] how do you fix cracks in lower engine cover?
> >
> >
> > I have one crack in my lower engine cover and one bolt is broken
off
> > the hinge.How can you fix this crack,can you use bondo or
> > some type fiberglass.Does anybody know how to remove the hinge
from
> > the car? Any help would be appreciated very much.
> > thank you Brian
> >
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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 21:37:54 -0000
From: "_designer_" <_designer_@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Need help finding drilled brake discs & digital dashes...
I searched the archives, but cannot find any vendors or individuals
selling drilled brake discs. If anyone has a phone number or URL to
find these, please let me know!
Also, I noticed that several people have successfully hooked up
digital instrument guages in their cars. Are these "JC Whitney"
guages? How did you go about installing them?
Thanks in advance for any help y'all may have :)
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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 08:08:27 +0800
From: "Ian Foster" <ian@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DMC in another movie
DMLers,
Have I missed this before, but are y'all aware that there is one of the BTTF
DeLoreans in a current movie "Big Fat Liar." Saw the movie while flying down
to Singapore on Wednesday. Theres a scene in the costume/props storage area
of a film studio where the stars sit on top of the car.
The movie is a good laugh, so have a look.
Cheers, IAN (Hong Kong)
******************************
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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 00:25:09 -0000
From: "basfe25" <drrub46@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Brake Master Cylinder Rebuild Kits?
Not true. There is a place here on Long Island called Apple
hydraulics that will re-sleave the master cylinder. The old one is
borded out and a new sleave is installed to fix the pitting. I
believe that the cost is about $80 but don't hold me to that. IMHO I
would rather buy a new one for my saftey concern....but to each
their own.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxx> wrote:
> Another reason that you do not want to rebuild the master cylinder
is
> very often the internal bore of the master cylinder is pitted and
> corroded making rebuilding by just throwing in some new parts
> impossible. I have also seen on some cars (not on Deloreans) that
> after rebuilding master cylinders for some reason they just don't
> last. To avoid future problems flush the system every 2 years with
DOT
> 4 Castrol GTLMA especially if you don't use the car often.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
> \
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, jwit6@xxxx wrote:
> > .
> > Complete assy is available at autozone. Duralast 11-2329
AutoZone
> had it for
> > $71, with a $45 refundable core charge.This is the same MC as a
1986
> SAAB 900
> > Brake master cylinder #707950
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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 00:31:56 -0000
From: "willinot" <willinot@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: What to look for in a DeLorean
Hello one and all.
I am a 23 year old living in Belfast. I hope to purchase my first
DeLorean in the next few months with the help of a loan.
Basically I was wondering what are the particular areas to check on
a DeLorean and generally what advise would you have to a new buyer.
Are there any tell tale signs I should look out for to indicate
problems etc.
Thanks in advance for any help you can give.
my e-mail is willinot@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx for anyone who wants to reply
to me directly.
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