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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 20 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: my 134a conversion begins...
From: jrc2905@xxxxxxx
2. Re: my 134a conversion begins...
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: R-12
From: "davvet2" <davvet2@xxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Fuel Mixture unit Gasket Leak?
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Fuel Mixture unit Gasket Leak?
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
6. Re: Re: Fuel tank made from Stainless steel?
From: DHughes030@xxxxxxx
7. Clackety clackety clackety?
From: Andrew <aos+yahoo@xxxxxxxx>
8. Re: CO adjustment using a dwell meter?
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. O Rings & Vacuum leaks
From: "dherv10" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
10. Re: my 134a conversion begins... / Next Vin from mine 4 sale
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Re: my 134a conversion begins...
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
12. Re: Re: R-12
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Clackety clackety clackety?
From: "Patrick Cowan" <LilRedCivic@xxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re:how to find Vacuum leak?
From: "dmcman82" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Door Handle (Inside)
From: BondAtomic@xxxxxxx
16. Lexan RC Delorean Body
From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Brakes keep locking up
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
18. Fuel Filter Connection Kit
From: "dherv10" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
19. Car Show Rooms
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
20. No more lurking for me!
From: "argent486" <argentum@xxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 22:03:29 EDT
From: jrc2905@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: my 134a conversion begins...
You might consider the impact of putting 134a in for leak testing before you
change the oil you could ruin your existing compressor the oils are not
compatible.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 03:33:46 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: my 134a conversion begins...
There are now several "drop in" replacements for R-12. Check with
either a large A/C wholesaler or a shop that specializes in A/C work.
They will be familiar with what is working well. Try not to convert to
R-134. The system was not desiegned for the operating pressures that
R-134 requires so it will loose approx 20% of cooling capacity. Also
it is incompatable with the lubricant used for R-12 so unless the
system is COMPLETLY dissasembled and cleaned of all of the old oils it
will cause trouble in the future. The origional "O" rings must all be
replaced or they will leak because they are not compatable with the
lubricants for R-134. The bottom line is R-134 although cheaper isn't
worth the trouble. The easiest answer is to fix all of the leaks and
refill with R-12. Although expensive it is still obtainable. The next
best alternative is one of the new "drop in" replacements.
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "dmcman82" <dmcman73@xxxx> wrote:
> 1. Check the price on R20 (or is it 22?), it's the freon used in
> home A/C's, I believe it is cheaper than R134a...if so use this to
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 02:12:48 -0000
From: "davvet2" <davvet2@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: R-12
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxx> wrote:
> If you happen to be driving in Mexico and you brought your
installation
> connector, R-12 is about $6 (US) a can.
BE CAREFUL BUYING R-12 IN MEXICO !
They have been know to pass off many things as R-12; even PROPANE!
A friend of mine had his A/C recharged there, and it never really
cooled correctly - had it checked and they had put Propane in his
system. This was a time bomb waiting to explode.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 03:45:00 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture unit Gasket Leak?
The symptoms you describe could be caused by a vacuum leak. Since
there are so many possible sources of vacuum leaks plug off everything
and sort them out one by one. Start with a THOURGH visual inspection
especially where things are hard to see like on the front of the motor
and under the intake manifold.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "pbartusek" <pbmain@xxxx> wrote:
> Had a question for the group...
>
> How common is it for there to be a leak in the gasket that goes
> between the lower housing of the fuel mixture housing and the
> throttle valve assembly?
>
> The reason I ask is that my car was running ok, with the exception
of
> some issues I posted on last fall where the car would be going fine
> down the highway, but when I released the gas for a moment and then
> accellerated again, the car would just start dropping speed. It
> seemed as if backing off the accelerator would help a bit, but the
> car wouldn't go above 55, and I'd have to do some quick lane changes
> as everyone here in Detroit wanted to speed by...
>
> I decided a tune up couldn't hurt the situation, but then the
> nightmare really began - after new spark plugs/wires/cap/rotor,
> (taking off the two bolts and pulling up on the mixture unit to get
> clearance to get the distributor cap off, and the car ran like
> complete garbage. Couldn't go above 25. I looked and looked for
any
> sign of a vaccum leak, disconnected wires, etc. Nothing that I
could
> spot. I started replacing the replaced parts, with the old parts
that
> at least would let the car run good enough to drive around town, and
> still the same symptoms. The car sat through the winter in the
> garage, and now when I went to turn it on, it won't start - unless
> you give it gas right away and keep it above 1000rpm. No longer
does
> it sit at the nice fast idle, then back off after a couple minutes.
> You just have to kick in the gas or else it won't even be close to
> staying alive, and the word idle is not a part of this car's
> functionality any longer! If you floor the pedal, it won't go above
> 1000 or 2000 or wherever you have it - it just sounds starts
> sputtering. If you back off the accelerator a bit, it zooms up in
> RPM very fast. If you accellerate more gradually, it will rise, but
> usually sounds a bit rough in doing so...Took the plugs out - all
are
> equally alike - dull black.
>
> I'm kind of stuck at this point that I'm not sure if I should be
> chasing fuel system issues, vacuum issues, distributor, etc... The
> obvious answer seems to be 'retrace your steps, you screwed
something
> up', but I've gone over distributor cap wire routing, replaced the
> new parts with old and back again, trying to find the mysterious
> variable that's causing the problems, but I just seem to be getting
> more problems without reducing the number of variables!
>
> Any suggestions on testing vaccum, fuel pressure, or any other
common
> Delorean troubleshooting steps for something like this are greatly
> appreciated...
> Pete Bartusek
> #6707
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 23:50:48 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture unit Gasket Leak?
<< How common is it for there to be a leak in the gasket that goes
between the lower housing of the fuel mixture housing and the
throttle valve assembly?
( Pete and Group, I have taken apart several air flow mixture units and the
gaskets were in good shape I would be more worried about the Idle speed motor
tube that goes into the lower part of the air flow meter.If it's not almost
perfect. Total loss of vacuum.) Car won't run right.)
The reason I ask is that my car was running ok, with the exception of
some issues I posted on last fall where the car would be going fine
down the highway, but when I released the gas for a moment and then
accellerated again, the car would just start dropping speed. It
seemed as if backing off the accelerator would help a bit, but the
car wouldn't go above 55, and I'd have to do some quick lane changes
as everyone here in Detroit wanted to speed by...
( Again, If you have checked the brass hose going into the air flow mixture
lower housing, then I would say your having another vacuum leak that won't
advance the dwell or the warm up regulator isn't working right. There is tiny
filter in the warm up regulator gas input side that may be partially stopped
up. You can have pressure but no power due to gas starvation, the same
symption can occure it the fuel filter is stopped up.) The fuel system is
like you blood system, it has to flow freely to work right. A stopped up
filter in the regulator could be a lot of Yall's power problems.)
I decided a tune up couldn't hurt the situation, but then the
nightmare really began - after new spark plugs/wires/cap/rotor,
(taking off the two bolts and pulling up on the mixture unit to get
clearance to get the distributor cap off, and the car ran like
complete garbage. Couldn't go above 25. I looked and looked for any
sign of a vaccum leak, disconnected wires, etc. Nothing that I could
spot. I started replacing the replaced parts, with the old parts that
at least would let the car run good enough to drive around town, and
still the same symptoms. The car sat through the winter in the
garage, and now when I went to turn it on, it won't start - unless
you give it gas right away and keep it above 1000rpm. No longer does
it sit at the nice fast idle, then back off after a couple minutes.
You just have to kick in the gas or else it won't even be close to
staying alive, and the word idle is not a part of this car's
functionality any longer! If you floor the pedal, it won't go above
1000 or 2000 or wherever you have it - it just sounds starts
sputtering. If you back off the accelerator a bit, it zooms up in
RPM very fast. If you accellerate more gradually, it will rise, but
usually sounds a bit rough in doing so...Took the plugs out - all are
equally alike - dull black.
( Dull black would indicate to me a rich burning fuel system. It sure looks
like the warm up regulator is cooked.) I do now have a good used warm up
regulator that I can loan out, with a deposit.)
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/
Pete Bartusek
#6707
>>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 22:45:24 EDT
From: DHughes030@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Fuel tank made from Stainless steel?
I agree with Robert. I work on cars all day as my occupation and the
all have the pump in the tank, submerged in the fuel and usually rigidly
mounted to a plate at the top of the tank. No pickup hose to collapse. There
is a "sock" type filter at the pump intake for pre-filtering. Lets not start
a discussion about the dangers of a 12V supply in the tank and the risk of
sparks because it's hogwash. O2 ratios are too low for Hiroshima to occur.
There is however, a type of rigid, corrugated nylon line used in many
late models ('96 and up Taurus and several others) , this may solve the
collapsing fuel line concern (this just came to me while typing). I think it
is used on upscale fish aquariums but I'm not sure. I don't know where we
can source it.
And Walt (I think), you're right The fuel does get surprisingly hot!!
After an hours drive today, I removed the access panel and found the cap nut
on the fuel too hit to hold for long. and yes, the pump was screaming.
Don VIN 6860
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 22:12:26 -0500 (CDT)
From: Andrew <aos+yahoo@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Clackety clackety clackety?
I started hearing a new and distressing noise tonight. It is best
described as sounding like my subject line, and is very metallic in tone.
It sounds kind of like what I would expect a broken metal piece spinning
inside a metal container might sound.
I was very low on fuel at the time, so I figured maybe it's the famous
noisy fuel pump sound (which I've never heard), so I went and filled up
the car. No change. The noise was on and off for a while, and would
sometimes go silent when the engine was at idle (although not always).
I dropped off the friend who was in my car and drove home, and the noise
mysteriously disappeared, meaning I can't listen to it now or locate its
source (although from inside the car, it definitely sounded like it was
coming from the rear).
Any ideas?
-andrew
#4115, Houston TX
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 03:40:22 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: CO adjustment using a dwell meter?
The dwell meter method of adjusting mixture is an indirect way of
setting the air/fuel ratio. If you know that a car set on an anilyzer
has a dwell meter reading of say 35-45 degrees then setting another
car to that setting should get the a/f ratio pretty close. Of course
if there is a bad plug or vacuum leak all bets are off because you are
NOT measuring actual output from the motor, you are really measuring
an input! BTW you are reading the pulse width of the lambda injector,
not ignition dwell.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxx> wrote:
> Dan
>
> I am curious as to the answer to your question. I don't understand
how
> information from a dwell meter would have any influence on adjusting
the CO
> mixture.
>
> DMC Joe
> Tech Information, DMC Joe Help Club, & Store
> "Summer Parts Sale"
> http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
> DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dan B" <dbergl@xxxx>
> To: <dmcnews@xxxx>
> Sent: Friday, April 19, 2002 4:21 PM
> Subject: [DML] CO adjustment using a dwell meter?
>
>
> > A while back there was a link sent by David Sontos with
instructions on
> how
> > to adjust the CO mixture using a dwell meter. He gave a URL but
it seems
> > that the page no longer exists
(http://www.vabch.com/dsontos/tuneup.html)
> > Does anyone know where i can find this information? I did a
search on
> > google and I couldn't find an archived version of the page.
> >
> > Dan
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 17:00:24 -0000
From: "dherv10" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
Subject: O Rings & Vacuum leaks
Group, We talk about engines not running right, rough idle and so on,
the O Rings play a very dull and important roll. Often out of sight
and neglected. I put together a kit some of the more popular O rings
and vacuum gaskets in a kit on the web site. It will be supplied as
shown. One of the most common over looked is the idle speed tube
going into the bottom of the air flow meter. The seal isn't very
tight, but that little O ring and keeper must fit snuggly. Most often
it's hard or someone has put silicone all over the tube and hole to
get a good fit. Maby the kit will help in finding or preventing a
problem. If there is anything I left out that someone feels should be
there, please let me know. It's on the front page and the hardware
page. Some of the O ring pictures will be on the Reference page of
Talk & View.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 01:12:26 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: my 134a conversion begins... / Next Vin from mine 4 sale
I've had an even better result: R12 can still be used legally if it's for a system meant
to be used with R12... I had mine recharged a few weeks ago for £40.
Needs a vacuum test though :-(
Martin
#1458
Chris wrote:
> Hi
>
> I dont know about the USA but in the UK there is a replacement for R12,
> which is R24a and it is an ozone friendly replacement for R12.
> Converting to R134a should cost a lot as they should replace the whole
> system including pipes as R134a is totally different.
>
> Some Air con specialists only flush the system then replace the
> condenser/dryer and then charge less that £200 (about $300 ), but you will
> be constanly re gassing the system. In the UK it costs about £80 ($110) to
> re gass with R24a.
>
> On another note I noticed Vin 16328 for sale in PA. My vin is 16327! I found
> it on Hemmings..what are the chances of that :-)
> See http://www.raycoeuro.com/html/83Delorean.html
>
> Chris S
> Vin 16327
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 13:04:36 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: my 134a conversion begins...
Once again David is "right on the money"! I agree with his evaluation 100%
concerning AC conversions.
DMC Joe
Tech Information, DMC Joe Help Club, & Store
"Summer Parts Sale"
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv
----- Original Message -----
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, April 20, 2002 11:33 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: my 134a conversion begins...
> There are now several "drop in" replacements for R-12. Check with
> either a large A/C wholesaler or a shop that specializes in A/C work.
> They will be familiar with what is working well. Try not to convert to
> R-134. The system was not desiegned for the operating pressures that
> R-134 requires so it will loose approx 20% of cooling capacity. Also
> it is incompatable with the lubricant used for R-12 so unless the
> system is COMPLETLY dissasembled and cleaned of all of the old oils it
> will cause trouble in the future. The origional "O" rings must all be
> replaced or they will leak because they are not compatable with the
> lubricants for R-134. The bottom line is R-134 although cheaper isn't
> worth the trouble. The easiest answer is to fix all of the leaks and
> refill with R-12. Although expensive it is still obtainable. The next
> best alternative is one of the new "drop in" replacements.
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "dmcman82" <dmcman73@xxxx> wrote:
> > 1. Check the price on R20 (or is it 22?), it's the freon used in
> > home A/C's, I believe it is cheaper than R134a...if so use this to
>
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 10:05:52 +0000
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: R-12
Mine was by DuPont (bought 7 cans), have charged several cars since, works just fine but
it's always wise to be careful isn't it. What works for me doesn't always work for
everyone else, it was just a thought.
davvet2 wrote:
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxx> wrote:
> > If you happen to be driving in Mexico and you brought your
> installation
> > connector, R-12 is about $6 (US) a can.
>
> BE CAREFUL BUYING R-12 IN MEXICO !
>
> They have been know to pass off many things as R-12; even PROPANE!
> A friend of mine had his A/C recharged there, and it never really
> cooled correctly - had it checked and they had put Propane in his
> system. This was a time bomb waiting to explode.
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 20:29:15 -0400
From: "Patrick Cowan" <LilRedCivic@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Clackety clackety clackety?
did the noise change pitch with idle advancement?
-patrick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew" <aos+yahoo@xxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, April 20, 2002 11:12 PM
Subject: [DML] Clackety clackety clackety?
> I started hearing a new and distressing noise tonight. It is best
> described as sounding like my subject line, and is very metallic in tone.
> It sounds kind of like what I would expect a broken metal piece spinning
> inside a metal container might sound.
>
> I was very low on fuel at the time, so I figured maybe it's the famous
> noisy fuel pump sound (which I've never heard), so I went and filled up
> the car. No change. The noise was on and off for a while, and would
> sometimes go silent when the engine was at idle (although not always).
>
> I dropped off the friend who was in my car and drove home, and the noise
> mysteriously disappeared, meaning I can't listen to it now or locate its
> source (although from inside the car, it definitely sounded like it was
> coming from the rear).
>
> Any ideas?
>
> -andrew
> #4115, Houston TX
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 00:49:49 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re:how to find Vacuum leak?
Pete,
To find the source of a vacuum leak perform the following. Start up
the engine and let it come up to normal operating tempeture. Grab a
can of WD-40 and spray it at different spots (one by one) that you
think there could be a vacuum leak. As you spray a spot, listen for
any change in the engine. Once you hit a spot that has a vacuum leak,
the WD-40 will get sucked into the engine and cause a distinct rev in
the engine. If unsure, spray it again while listening for the change.
This is the safest and fastest way to pinpoint the problem. Be sure
not to spray to much (so there's not a lot of cleaning to do
afterwards) and make sure you don't get any WD-40 on the exhaust,
it'll smoke and burn off.
Hope this helps,
Steve Rubano
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "pbartusek" <pbmain@xxxx> wrote:
> Had a question for the group...
>
> How common is it for there to be a leak in the gasket that goes
> between the lower housing of the fuel mixture housing and the
> throttle valve assembly?
>
<SNIP>
> Any suggestions on testing vaccum, fuel pressure, or any other common
> Delorean troubleshooting steps for something like this are greatly
> appreciated...
> Pete Bartusek
> #6707
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 22:19:01 EDT
From: BondAtomic@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Door Handle (Inside)
My dad and I are actually replacing the same part, but the parts haven't come
in the mail from DMC Houston quite yet, so we haven't worked on putting it
back together. We did however do the same thing last year, on the driver's
side. I don't quite know how we did it, but I know Warren from DMC Houston
helped us out quite a bit. I'm sure we'll be on the phone in a matter of
days, yet again.
Sorry, no real technical advice, but I guess I feel your pain.
John
4275
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 13:17:50 -0400
From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Lexan RC Delorean Body
I am looking for one of the LEXAN DeLorean R/C bodies that were sold
several years ago by DeLorean One and Mr. Fred Lockett. IF anyone has
a line on one please email me off list. I'd alss be interested in a
fullly working R/C set up if anyone bought one and would like to sell
it. I prefer the body only so I can have a custom chassis made.
Thanks
Tom Watkins
#05732
See my photo of BIFF TANNEN and me at the FX2002 show in Orlando!!
http://www.geocities.com/outatime81/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 11:05:41 -0700
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Brakes keep locking up
I must say this is the most frustrating problem I've had with my car yet.
If I drive it for any longer than five minutes, the brakes will lock up and
the pedal get's incredibly stiff with no travel at all. It seems to be
mostly the front calipers and they will eventually release after they cool
down. The brake fluid does look rather old and I know it needs to be
flushed, but would that cause them to lock up? I've driven it every day for
a year and it happened rather suddenly.
Thanks for your help!
payne
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 21:58:52 -0000
From: "dherv10" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Fuel Filter Connection Kit
Group, Today I added another kit besides the O ring kit. It's a kit
for the fuel filter connection. If your connection has been battered
like some have by shops and they used all kinds of plumbing, take a
look at this clean setup. I soldered the compression ring to the tube
and tightened it down tight using teflon tape. Sur-Fit. Shown on the
web site under the fuel section about 1/2 way down under the fuel
filter.
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/fuelsystems.shtml
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 18:21:21 EDT
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: Car Show Rooms
HI
Well I first want to thank all of you for the tremendous response to this
Years DeLorean Car Show Memphis. The show is almost double what I thought it
would be two years ago when I started this.
As you know the Heartbreak Hotel sold out (117 rooms) in a record 4 days last
summer and we got an additional 75 rooms at the Raddison. In addition to
that they gave me 10 more rooms last week for a total of 85 and as of today
all the rooms I have in both Hotels are sold out.
I will not be tracking rooms anymore since I have a lot of work to do to plan
the rest of the show. The Raddison has said that if they have rooms they
will still let us have them and will add them to the block but they are not
reserved in a block for us. The same number can be used
800-333-3333 but as of this point I cannot guarentee a room although they
said rooms are available on a first come first serve basis and the same rate
applies.
Registrations have been very brisk and we have added some people from Utah,
Texas, and Alabama bringing the total states to I believe 34 (a new record).
We are also approaching the 300 mark for event registrations so things are
going well. I thank all of you for your support and hope you find these
updates helpful and informative,
See you in Memphis
and as Elvis would say
Thankyouverymuch
Ken
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 02:34:51 -0000
From: "argent486" <argentum@xxxxxxx>
Subject: No more lurking for me!
Hello,
This weekend I brought home something I've been waiting on for years.
VIN #961 now rests in my garage. It's an '81 5 speed with black
interior. Started working on it today and the thing about
the "Love/Hate Relationsip" is right. A list of parts kept growing
throughout the afternoon, but how can I not help but love looking at
that car.
After lurking for years now I'm going to start playing twenty
questions. First objective was to replace the spark plugs. I got 5
out of six which isn't bad, but how do you get to the left front one
near the AC compressor? Any special technique? Any method of taking
the least amount of parts off to get to the plug?
My car has the two key system and I know that the suppliers have
official blanks for sale. I will probably grab some in the future but
are there any blanks from Curtis, ILCO, or others that really work?
With only one set of keys I'm going to have a nightmare of locking
them in sometime.
I'm glad to finally "Live the Dream" and I hope I'll meet many of you
in the future. If anyone is in the Kansas/Oklahoma area shoot me an
email if you want to meet up sometime.
Matt Metzinger
Arkansas City, KS 67005
VIN #961
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