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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Noisy fuel pump (still!) (and again!)
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
2. Re: Fuel Pump and hot start problems
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
3. Change in YAHOO! OT
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: CAT Heat Shield
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
5. Re: Re: Directional disengage no longer works properly
From: Henry Breer <hbreer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Noisy fuel pump (still!) (and again!)
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Courtesy light puzzle
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
8. Re: No parking brake
From: "jpg6661" <jpg6661@xxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: CV boot help.
From: hugo mederos <miami5606@xxxxxxxxx>
10. THE DELOREAN "BRAIN TRUST"
From: "davvet2" <davvet2@xxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: A/C cycling switch
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
12. My car won't let me in.
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
13. Dusty and Lefty for sale
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
14. British Car Show in NC coming up
From: iznodmad@xxxxxxx
15. Re: Re: Fan Relay Upgrade
From: shain@xxxxxxxxxxxx
16. Need tank cleaning advice
From: "deloreanfl" <ericp@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Need tank cleaning advice
From: Aaron King <floodle@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Fan Relay Upgrade
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Need tank cleaning advice
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: Need tank cleaning advice
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
21. Whats the best tire?
From: "beatlesra1" <beatlesra1@xxxxxxx>
22. Re: Re: Directional disengage no longer works properly
From: "William F. Lane" <blane@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Hot Start - Fuel Accum.....Techincal Questions
From: "Jason Jones" <jason@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Front Suspension Links
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Hot Start UPDATE--- Wiring Schematic
From: "Jason Jones" <jason@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 15:41:48 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Noisy fuel pump (still!) (and again!)
John, do you by chance have an all metal radiator with an extra row of
cores? This might drop the temperature of the returning coolant by a few
degrees and keep your fuel tank that much cooler. I'm still running on the
OEM radiator and haven't had time to change it out.
The simplest way to insulate the pipes would be to replace them with lengths
of silicone hose. What I really would like to see someone do is make a
double wall pipe with a vacuum envelope like a thermos bottle. It would be
simple to make if you only sleeved the straight pieces. Then pull a hard
vacuum and solder it closed. I'll add that to my job stack. Maybe I'll get
around to it in a few decades. :-)
> Walt, I don't know what it is, but I had one fuel pump that made more
noise,
> so I replaced it, and that was 2 1/2 years ago, I see no difference in hot
or
> cold. I hear all the post about it, but have never experienced it myself,
110
> or 40 degrees, no difference.
> John Hervey
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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 15:58:59 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump and hot start problems
Joe, It sounds to me like you have a bad check valve on the old fuel pump.
The early style had a fatter banjo fitting, so when you switch to the new
shorter neck valve the banjo is almost too fat and only gives you about 1.5
threads for the dome nut.
Now in your case since you went from a later style to an earlier style, you
may already have a narrow banjo. This is only a guess, but maybe the narrow
banjo is too thin and the dome nut is bottoming out before it completely
tightens the connection. It is possible to have an invisible leak since the
fuel can spray out in such a fine stream that it is only a vapor. And I
suppose you already know that you aren't supposed to reuse the copper crush
washers.
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 16:03:09 -0500
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Change in YAHOO! OT
[MODERATOR NOTE: I'm approving this because so many of you have written about the subject. Now that it is posted, you may stop. - Mike Substelny DML moderator of the week]
Off Topic, I know.. but all of us have Yahoo! accounts to use Yahoo groups.
Yahoo! just made a change, and reset everyone's "Marketing Preferences" to "yes" for ALL marketing even if you had it set to "NO" before.
Just letting everyone know they should check their profiles and reset it to how they like it.
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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 16:47:52 EST
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: CAT Heat Shield
In a message dated 3/28/02 8:48:16 AM Eastern Standard Time, seanm@xxxxxxxxxx
writes:
> The price for the wrap around heat
> shield is $90.00 please email me directly if anyone is interested or
> has any questions.
>
Hi Sean-
I used to have Byrne's number but misplaced it. Can you give it to me? (and
post it for the sake of the List?)
-Wayne
11174
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 14:06:12 -0800
From: Henry Breer <hbreer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Directional disengage no longer works properly
Joe,
Sorry to take you to task, but I can't believe this advice from an automobile
professional.
The steering wheel and the steering shaft both have alignment marks. When they are
aligned and the steering wheel is centered, the steering rack is in the center of it's
range so that you have equal 'lock to lock' turning. If the car does not go straight with
the steering wheel centered, the car has suspension problems.
The proper solution is to find out WHY a car does not go straight when the steering wheel
is centered and then fix the problem. Carried to a ridiculous extreme, your "quick and
simple way to center your steering wheel" could lead to a car that could go straight or
turn left but could not turn right because the rack is already at it's right extreme.
Hank Breer
VIN 1141
DMC Joe wrote:
> Here is a quick and simple way to center your steering wheel if it is out of
> alignment. First remove the steering wheel with a suitable puller and
> replace the wheel and snug up the mounting lock nut. Drive the car on a
> known straight level road and note the position of the center spoke. To
> readjust the wheel park the car and slightly pull the steering wheel off its
> mounting and advance or back off (per splins) the wheel in the direction
> required to align the center spoke. Repeat the procedure until correct.
>
> CAUTION: Be sure that the steering wheel is properly secured during road
> testing.
>
> Regards,
> DMC Joe/Help Club dmchelp@xxxxxxx
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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 23:34:43 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Noisy fuel pump (still!) (and again!)
A suction hose can never operate at higher than atmospheric pressure - ie vacuum is not a
force in its own right, it is merely a lower pressure than the outside. In this case,
atmospheric pressure.You are unlikely to create vacuum bubbles at this level of suction
and even if you did, they'd disappear the moment they pass through the pump.
Martin
#1458
DMC Joe wrote:
> Fuel under high pressure may be cavitating as it passes
> the spring coils the resulting bubbles will increase pump noise.
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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 00:52:10 +0100
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Courtesy light puzzle
Tyler Graves wrote:
>> I need some advice on my lighting situation. My front and rear
>> interior white lights (aka courtesy lights) do not come on.
[snip]
>> I'm not sure where to start my hunt for an explanation.
Then Don Hughes replied:
> There are three diodes located at the front left edge of the console, one
> red, one black, and the other blue. Remove them one at the time and check
> them with an ohm meter. One or more are probably bad.
Remember to check them in BOTH current directions: they ARE diodes...
If you have no continuity in both directions the diode is probably blown.
When current goes through in either direction it probably is shorted out.
Even better than an Ohm-meter would be a testlight with a battery,
since the amount of current flowing is of interest too!
Good luck,
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
------------------------------
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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 04:01:42 -0000
From: "jpg6661" <jpg6661@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: No parking brake
The cable may have come loose at the handle mechanism, the cable has
a pin that simply fits into a solt on the handle.
John
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Payne" <bpayne@xxxx> wrote:
> Ever since I've had my car, the parking brake never worked very
well. Sure
> it would hold, but I really had to yank it hard. When I had the
rear brakes
> done, I found out why. One of the pads for the parking brake was
missing.
> I ordered a new set and had them installed, but since then the
brake won't
> hold at all. The technician said that they are definetely gripping
the
> rotor and the brake handle feels very firm, but for some reason
they just
> won't hold the car. I can pull the handle up as hard as I can yet
I can
> still get out and push the car with one hand.
>
> The technician and I are both puzzled. He said he couldn't adjust
the
> parking brake anymore or it woudl be dragging on the rotor all the
time. Is
> there anything I am overlooking?
>
> Thanks for your help! I miss my parking brake, even though I hate
that
> rubber cover.
>
> Payne
> #2975
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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 16:51:13 -0800 (PST)
From: hugo mederos <miami5606@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: CV boot help.
Thanks Dave for your input
That made the job alot easier knowing what to expect.
I found the boots a a local BAP imports store for 9.99
each.
This forum is great I just hope I will get a chance to
help others as they have helped me.
HUgo vin#2800
--- Dave Sontos <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Hugo,
> CV boots are a piece of cake compared with some
> other repair jobs on the
> DeLorean. Order the boots, all four of them from
> your DeLorean dealer ahead
> of time. Do the job right the first time. Put the
> car up on jack stands,
> remove all of the little bolts on both ends of each
> axle, and give a tug on
> the axle and they pop right out. Take apart each end
> one at a time, wash
> them up in solvent, blow or wipe dry, apply new
> grease and reassemble new
> boot. Turn axle around and do the other end. Give
> the axle a new coat of
> paint and reinstall. Make sure to torque the bolts,
> don't remember the spec.
>
> Also check the oil seals in the main carrier, if
> these are leaking now is
> the time to change them also.
[moderator snip]
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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 03:50:27 -0000
From: "davvet2" <davvet2@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: THE DELOREAN "BRAIN TRUST"
I want to thank the moderators for getting the list back on track and
back to normal.
As a newbie/lurker but Delorean owner, I enjoy reading the posts -
whenever I find a topic that is interesting, I print it out.
The Delorean "Brain Trust" here is a valuable asset to people like me
that want to work on their own cars. I enjoy it; it's a release from
the stressors in my life.
Thank You James Epsey for starting this list, thanks to the
volunteers that keep it going - and thanks to the members that post
their problems and other members that post possible solutions to
those problems.
JC
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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 23:35:17 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: A/C cycling switch
In a message dated 3/29/02 11:59:05 AM Pacific Standard Time, mikeatk@xxxxxxx
writes:
<< What can I say but wow! I do have to admit though that the one thing I
don't understand "Yahh Sure" is what you mean by the blower speed. Is that
the fan speed selected inside the car with the selector switch, positions 1
through 4?
( Yes, The faster the air moves over the AC Evaporator coil in the car, which
cools you, the less the compressor will turn on and thus the less the fans
will cycle because the compressor is cutting on and off. ) Try it for
yourself. Go out on the hwy and turn the air on and put the blower switch on
1. Then note the cycle on and off of the fans, then turn the blower to four
and give it a minuit to catch up, and the fans will cycle less. The more hot
or room temp air moves over the condensor in the car , then the less the AC
low pressure switch will cycle on and off trying to keep from over pressure
of the system. It's self protecting it's self. ) If you had a Fan Fix, you
could see the cycling on and off Via the light on the dash.
I have a FanZilla so I also only have one C/B. DMC Joe advised me after I
bought it that since the FanZilla already has C/B's there was no need for a
second as it would be redundant. The car still has the other C/B though. I
have a basic understanding of the cooling fans and there cycling with the
exception of some of the things you mentioned.
The other CB as you call it is for the AC blower motor in the car. It
protects the 3rd and 4th speed .1st and 2nd run straight off the switch.
Those being "blower speed affect the cycling, sensitivity of the otterstat,
how circuit breaker reacts, low and high pressure switches affect the
cycling.
None of the above as I explained it has anything to do with the otterstat.
That is strictly water temp and air in the line that turns the fans on.
Totally independent of the AC cooling system.
The last I tend to confuse with the freon level. I would think many if not
all members would benefit from an indepth explaination of the cooling fans
with the A/C on if nothing else. When the A/C is off is fairly straight
forward, or is it.
In my case, the fans have cycled about every 5 seconds since having the
freon system serviced. That's with the A/C on of course. DMC Joe says I
should replace the cycle switch now that I have re-adjusted it as they are
preset at the factory. I don't mind doing that but do wish the mistakes in
the article had been caught before I did this. If anyone has any advise and
would like to let me know off list that would be fine. I don't want to clog
up the list with the long explanations something like this might require.
The time to replace the LP switch is before you charge the system. Yes, It
could be bad or weak, but normally the pressure is what turnes it on and off.
Low on freon or not enough, or air moving over the condensor coil.
Go, out and try what I said a show yourself.
Email me back your results.
John
>>
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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 21:04:20 -0800
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: My car won't let me in.
First of all, I want to thank everyone who gave me suggestions about my
disfunctional E-brake. I had the technician mess around with it some more
and it now holds fairly well. The only thing that worries me is it holds
when you pull the handle up only a few centimeters so it may be dragging all
the time.
But now I have an even more frustrating problem. My driver's door has been
giving me a lot of trouble lately. I replaced the door seal with a new one
from PJ Grady's and now the door is extremely hard to close and open. The
seal is on as far as it will go but it fits too snugly against the door when
I close it. My other problem with the door is that when I close it, it will
rarely let me open it again. The latch mechanism is getting really banged
up and the white plastic has cracked. I've tried every possible combination
of adjusting the front and rear striker pins. Some positions make it
slightly better and others won't allow me to open the door from the outside
at all. Also, every time I close the door it pushes on the drivers side
lock rod just enough so I can't open it again without holding the key in the
unlock position and pulling hard on the handle.
There's a couple of things I want to try, but I have a couple of questions
before I attempt it. I'm the king of doing stupid things so I need to be
careful. The rear striker pin seems to be sticking too far out (toward
front of car) as it has different washers behind it than the front one. If
I unscrew the striker pin all the way and pull it out to remove a washer,
will I be dropping anything that it is attached to into some unholy abyss in
the rear quarter panel? Also, the door handle is an aftermarket one that
doesn't quite match the passenger side. This handle doesn't seem to have
enough pull on the mechanism and I was wondering how I can adjust this. I
have the upper trim panel removed but I can't seem to get a wrench on it and
I don't quite know what I'm doing.
Okay, this has gotten longer that I'd hoped. If anyone has any advice to
keep me from doing anything stupid I would really appreciate it. I still
love my car!
payne
#2975
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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 09:32:58 -0000
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Dusty and Lefty for sale
Dear list,
I have decided to sell my two "5 speed" DeLorean's. I have placed the adds
on the DML "fore sale" page.(I am keeping my two Auto's)
They are both very low mileage, "Dusty" original Right Hand Drive, black
interior, UK reg. number AXI 79, which I used for the first time at Eurofest
01, where I had the pleasure of taking about 10 people around the DeLorean
test track! Now up to 622 miles, original Euro spec, engine 158 BHP. The
body was built on day 2 of production (29th Feb. 81). Vin. ( plate fitted by
Woller-Hodec) 12176. price around $40K
"Lefty" 1983, vin 20049, Grey man. 111 miles from new, like new, unused
apart from one trip in and out of my garage! price around $25K.
Please don't confuse these cars with some of the other "low mileage,
storage" cars I've read about where you have to start renewing all the
rubber etc. In our cool (darkish) climate, these cars are as near "new" (
but not of course concourse) as you can get.
Neither of them would be much good for "concourse", as James Esprey has not
complied his reference book for RHD's ( its hardly worth it with only 20
cars in the world!) and I understand the 83's have their own problems!
BTW, Following the recent unpleasant postings about "concourse" I now know
why this list is "moderated" although not quite tough enough, in this case,
in my personal opinion.
I know we can always use the "Delete button", but I think all posting
deserves the courtesy of a quick "scan thru", after all someone took time
and trouble to send it in.
I thought the DML was for enthusiast talking about their love and hobby, the
fantastic "DeLorean" motor car, not a forum for insulting each other. ( just
my personal opinion ).
I don't wish to start another controversial thread!!!!
Chris Parnham Hon. Sec. DeLorean Owners Club UK
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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 12:08:53 EST
From: iznodmad@xxxxxxx
Subject: British Car Show in NC coming up
Group,
This is a short notice posting about a British car show to be held in
Winston-Salem, NC the weekend of April 27th, with the car show portion being
held on Saturday, April 27th. The show is called "The Gathering" and it is
held on the beautiful grounds of the R.J. Reynolda Estate. Pre-registration
is due by April 8th (short notice I know), and a class is determined by 3
pre-registrations of a marque. We have 2 DeLoreans so far, so only one more
is needed for a class. However, the more the merrier. There are driving
events, wrench racing, and a banquet if you are so inclined. Please check
out the link at the bottom of this posting for more info. There is a
printable registration form and all the info you need on the website. I
attended this show last year and we had 3 Ds there, we received a very warm
welcome. I would love to have a nice turnout of Ds there, so that in the
future maybe we can get a feature marque at this show. Jaguar E-type is this
years feature marque. If I can be of any more assistance, please contact me.
www.triumphclub.org/the_gathering.htm
Regards,
Darren Decker
#5000
Iznodmad(at)aol.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 12:46:08 -0500 (EST)
From: shain@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Fan Relay Upgrade
Martin,
Microcontrolelr was a bit excessive for the fan relays, but couold be a very good alternative for the door lock module. After looking at the pictures in the vault of a stock relay harness i came up with the idea of having two relays and have one on a delay. After i came up with the initial design i alsmot laughed on how simple it really was, 3 small transistors, 2 resistors and a cap. I actually fitted the circuitry in project box the size of a keyless entry remote (not recomended, was a pain to build). I have not tackled my fan fail light yet, and really does seem that inportant to me (like the door lock light). Well it's a hot day out, lets seem if mine functions properly ;)
Happy Easter!
- Shain
#10140
----- In Response To -----
> Shain, give me two weeks and I'll have posted my design for
> this very function. I have also worked out the system for
> the fan fail light which you need the stock wiring to be
> able to use.
>
> A microcontroller is a bit of an overkill IMO. A couple of
> comparators and some RC timers are all I'm going to use.
> It keeps things simple.
>
> Martin
> #1458
[moderator snip]
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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 19:34:51 -0000
From: "deloreanfl" <ericp@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Need tank cleaning advice
Hello group,
I decided to completely restore the items in my gas tank. In my
arsenal I have a new pump, new hoses, new pickup screen, new boot and
cover..etc.
I removed the tank baffle and cleaned it. As I began to inspect the
inside of the tank, I wasn't surprised to find lots of crud at the
bottom. But I hadn't stop to consider the best way to actually remove
this flake-like crud. (looks like rust particles, even saw a small
leaf!)
Anybody got any suggestions that worked for them?
Thanks
Eric
Dunedin, FL
VIN# 5557
ericp@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 17:01:06 -0800
From: Aaron King <floodle@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Need tank cleaning advice
Eric,
Mark Vanyo and I needed to do pretty much the same thing to my car (vin 1217)
minus the new fuel pump. I also found rust-like material and a few leaves.
Not cool. We went to our local auto parts store and got a little hand pump
and removed all the gas from the tank. We used nitrile gloves (NOT latex,
they dissolve in gasoline. We learned that very quickly.) and got a towel
and soaked up the last bit of gas from the tank. Then we just used another
slightly damp (with water) towel to wipe up all of the crud in the tank. You
may want to use an abrasive pad or something to get any material that is
stuck on the bottom of the tank. The technique was just to stick a gloved
hand with towel into the top of the fuel tank and move it around to try to
catch all of the debris. It worked surprisingly well. We ended up putting
the gas back in the tank when we were all finished, since it looked pretty
gunk-free. If yours looks like it has stuff in it, you probably want to get
fresh fuel. That's it.
Cheers!
Aaron King
Bothell, WA
vin#1217 (with a crud-free gas tank)
My car is for sale! Check out http://www.floodle.org/car.html
On Saturday 30 March 2002 11:34 am, you wrote:
> Hello group,
>
> I decided to completely restore the items in my gas tank. In my
> arsenal I have a new pump, new hoses, new pickup screen, new boot and
> cover..etc.
>
> I removed the tank baffle and cleaned it. As I began to inspect the
> inside of the tank, I wasn't surprised to find lots of crud at the
> bottom. But I hadn't stop to consider the best way to actually remove
> this flake-like crud. (looks like rust particles, even saw a small
> leaf!)
>
> Anybody got any suggestions that worked for them?
> Thanks
>
> Eric
> Dunedin, FL
> VIN# 5557
> ericp@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 02:21:03 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fan Relay Upgrade
Hi Shain
My intention is to produce an "open source" design that any hobbyist could build. To this end my design keeps things simple. 9/10ths of the problem with a project like this is sourcing the appropriate parts! I am compiling a build procedure using parts readily available from Farnell. The fan fail module is an interesting idea and fairly unique to the DeLorean. I want to duplicate it as near as possible. I have got the function down to the point that every time your fans kick in you _know_ the system's working.
If you're talking lock module - I've got a design I haven't built yet but uses a pair of NAND gates and a couple of buffering trannys - and it solves ALL the problems with the stock modules (I trust the Siemens relays I'm replacing the OEM ones with!). You could use a pic, but how many people out there could copy it?
Having read a number of electronic "solutions" I have found myself having to reverse engineer the instructions to work out what has been done. I want to explain my systems to allow people to copy them with confidence, and with something as important as the fan control, this is paramount.
It's really nice to know there's someone out there who thinks as I do!
Cheers
Martin
#1458
shain@xxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> Martin,
>
> Microcontrolelr was a bit excessive for the fan relays, but couold be a very good alternative for the door lock module. After looking at the pictures in the vault of a stock relay harness i came up with the idea of having two relays and have one on a delay. After i came up with the initial design i alsmot laughed on how simple it really was, 3 small transistors, 2 resistors and a cap. I actually fitted the circuitry in project box the size of a keyless entry remote (not recomended, was a pain to build). I have not tackled my fan fail light yet, and really does seem that inportant to me (like the door lock light). Well it's a hot day out, lets seem if mine functions properly ;)
>
> Happy Easter!
> - Shain
> #10140
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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 02:24:32 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Need tank cleaning advice
Buy a new tank. This is what mine looked like:
http://www.delorean.co.uk/pictures/DCP02229.jpg
I don't know what they cost in the US, but over here the cost made it easier to buy a new
tank. We couldn't figure out a way to clean it - that crud is like tar!
Martin
#1458
deloreanfl wrote:
> Hello group,
>
> I decided to completely restore the items in my gas tank. In my
> arsenal I have a new pump, new hoses, new pickup screen, new boot and
> cover..etc.
>
> I removed the tank baffle and cleaned it. As I began to inspect the
> inside of the tank, I wasn't surprised to find lots of crud at the
> bottom. But I hadn't stop to consider the best way to actually remove
> this flake-like crud. (looks like rust particles, even saw a small
> leaf!)
>
> Anybody got any suggestions that worked for them?
> Thanks
>
> Eric
> Dunedin, FL
> VIN# 5557
> ericp@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
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Message: 20
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 20:16:19 EST
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Need tank cleaning advice
Hi Eric,
I have cleaned 3 DeLorean fuel tanks now. Just take it to the pressure
washer and fill it up with soap and let it soak then keep repeating the
process on high pressure. The tank looked like new when I was done. If it
is real stubborn reach in there with a nylon brush and brush it out at the
same time.
hope this helps
David
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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 02:04:25 -0000
From: "beatlesra1" <beatlesra1@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Whats the best tire?
Happy Easter everyone!!
I wanna buy new tires..I know Yokohama's are gone. What brand would
be best? I know this probably has been addressed before but I'm
relatively new to the group so please help!
Chuck
Vin#6125
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Message: 22
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 23:12:34 -0800
From: "William F. Lane" <blane@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Directional disengage no longer works properly
Hank,
Look again! The Delorean does not have an alignment mark.
Bill Lane
#3635
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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 00:32:03 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time)
From: "Jason Jones" <jason@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Hot Start - Fuel Accum.....Techincal Questions
After Spending $400+ on a New fuel pump, Check Valve, Fuel Filter, Rubber
Gaskets, Cleaned Tank etc... I Still have the hot Start problem which means
I looks like a new Fuel accumulator is on the horizon. I have a couple of
technical questions that I hope you all can help me with. Since I am now
almost for certain it is a Accumulator issue I would like to implement the
Temporary Fix (Switching the Cold Start Valve (CSV) and the Control Pressure
Regulator.) I would like to do something like DMCVegas did and rig up a
momentary switch however for the purpose of activating the CSV until it
starts. I have see the "Hot Start Relay Fix" from SpecialTAuto and this is
similar to what I want (I think) I have no problems wiring and am quite apt
on doing a quality "Temp Fix" I started going through the Manuals and Wire
Diagram for the D and according the the 81 diagram I have the CSV has to
connections going to the Thermal Timer and the the Hot Start Relay it
appears that one wire is suppose to be Hot (Positive) but when I test it
(meaning I unplug the CSV and probe the connector it shows a Ground on each
terminal <<stumped>>
Question 1- How can this be and what is it suppose to be. It Negative in
both ignition off and engaged (Did not try Start position... I probably
should have but I was in the Garage late tonight)
I tried to track the Hot Start relay down with no luck nothing seems to be
labeled anywhere and the manual is useless naming half the relays as the
same. I tried to follow the Wiring Diagram and how the Hot Start Rely works
but am clueless with what information I have. The Relay is suppose to have
one Pos (Positive Voltage) one ground and one goes to CSV.
Question 2 - Does any one know the EXACT location of the Hot Start Relay?
Question 3 - Am I correct in saying that during start the Hot Start Relay
engages sends a Pos current to the CSV and if the Thermal Timer is active
(Cold) it completes the circuit with a Ground Connection thus activating the
CSV?
Question 4 - This makes since to me but if this is the case how would
SpecialTAuto's Hot Start Relay work?
Question 5 - What is the best way of activating the CSV manually and how
would you wire it.... (please be very specific since my wiring diagrams are
vague to say the least)
Question 6--- Why would you name a relay that activates the COLD start valve
HOT start relay? You don't have to answer that one but I did ponder this
one while gazing at all of these relays...
Fuel Accumulator Questions
Ok I have heard talk that replacing the Fuel Accumulator is a Pain however I
have not found any guide or pictures aside from the Parts Manual as to how
to access it for replacement. I have read that you must access it from under
the car while others say it is under the center console and "easy"
Question 7 - Where can I go to see pictures and get an over view of the
replacement? I saw that there was a magazine with an article published does
any one have this that they can email me? Maybe someone has a website link
to some tech stuff on its replacement. Those who have done it what can you
tell us about it.
I know it is going to be a while before I sink more money into my D so I
will be doing some kind to temp fix for the Hot Start issue but any
information on this "Common" Procedure would be greatly appreciated to all
of us New owners
Thanks All
Jason
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Message: 24
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 05:44:10 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Front Suspension Links
Hello List -
I thought that I would give those of you who are interested a quick
update on the front lower control arm stabilization links. I
finished fabrication and installation last weekend, and now have
about 150 miles on them. There is no binding of anything, no
excessive noise, or anything else that might be considered negative.
(The following is purely subjective) The steering seems a little
quicker, and it turns in just a little faster with a given steering
input. Nothing feels unstable. I've had the car up to 90 mph with
nothing unusual happening. The next phase will be straight-
line "panic stops" to see if everything holds together, and if there
is any effect caused by the links (good or bad). It's kind of tough
to judge this installation because my car is so tight anyway, with my
urethane bushings, etc. If all goes well, I may detach the front
sway bar to see if the links will hold the lower control arms in
position. That is a big step, and failure could be expensive, so
I'll let you know. Stay tuned! Don't forget to check (and change)
those trailing arm bolts.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1 - PNDC, Seattle
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Message: 25
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 01:36:38 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time)
From: "Jason Jones" <jason@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Hot Start UPDATE--- Wiring Schematic
I studied the Schematic some more and my first assumption I think is wrong..
It appears that on START a Pos voltage is sent to one of the connectors
on the Cold Start Valve (CSV), the Thermal Timer and on to the Hot Start
Relay which closes the circuit sending the Negative back to the CVS thus
activating the CSV on every start... The Thermal Timer acts as a "Short"
(Since there is resistance it is not a short but you know what I mean) if
the Temp is considered hot it's "relay switch" Closes and "shorts out" or
bypasses the CSV... thus preventing the CSV from activating.
<<Geez who's the brains behind this one seems like a backwards way of
doing things SMIRK>>
Any who..... does this sound right to you guys? I would like to test my
theory but I can not seem to find my Thermal Timer I read somewhere that
someone said it was next to the coolant tank but I can find it anywhere.
If this is right it seems I could simply switch off the Thermal Timer during
hot starts since it appears to activate on each start depending on the
Thermal Timer......
Input please :) Thanks Yawl!
Jason
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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