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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Delorean For Sale
From: "dmc812001" <dmc812001@xxxxxxxxx>
2. speedo broken, help needed
From: "brucedduncan" <bduncan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. ASI Radio for Sale?
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
4. Looking for a Delorean
From: "bmw_delorean" <giastardust@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Concourse closing note
From: "gr8old1" <Gr8old1@xxxxxxx>
6. Re: Let's try again; Facts and "The airline terminal" - Concours d'Elegance
From: "txgrnbrt" <txgrnbrt@xxxxxxxxx>
7. Air metering adjustment
From: mgailey@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
8. Clarification...
From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: T-panel height
From: jrc2905@xxxxxxx
10. Transmission parts
From: "john572905" <jrc2905@xxxxxxx>
11. Re: catalytic heat shield
From: Robert Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: catalytic heat shield
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
13. newest member of the 110k club
From: "Willie Mack" <wmack@xxxxxx>
14. Re: speedo broken, help needed
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. RE: Transmission parts
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
16. Re: New design for Delorean?
From: "Josh Haldeman" <jhaldeman@xxxxxxxx>
17. Concours
From: "tmasterlc" <tmasterlc@xxxxxxx>
18. Directional disengage no longer works properly
From: "graves_14" <tylergraves@xxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Air metering adjustment
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: speedo broken, help needed
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Car Show New Catagory
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
22. Noisy fuel pump (still!) (and again!)
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
23. Re: Air metering adjustment
From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx
24. Re: Air metering adjustment
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
25. Re: catalytic heat shield
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
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Message: 1
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 15:54:14 -0000
From: "dmc812001" <dmc812001@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean For Sale
Hi All,
It would seem that my last posting didn't have some relevent
information regarding my car, so I figured I'd write another post
detailing my car etc. Here it goes.
1981 Delorean #2801 : Long Island, NY
Serviced at PJ Grady's Sayville NY
21,000 original miles
Auto Transmission with new computer govenor
New Battery
Eagle GT tires with like new tread
Original Craig AM/FM Stereo Cassette and speakers(works great)
Interior like new
exterior has no dings or dents (like new)
has both guigario side stripe(black) and DMC racing stripe
(silver/grey)
new door,bonnett, engine cover struts
new solenoids/fuses
Lights/horn fully functional
most upgrades
fuel system work, fuel tank cleaned everything OK
power windows work/original parts
Have all original paperwork (owners manual, warranty info, stereo
booklet,etc.)
have all repair records (including from original owner)
Car originally from Louisiana, no rust
Needs:
power locks need to be fixed (although car does lock manually)
some MINOR work to front suspension
needs A/C belt (A/C works)
needs a few other minor things
Price: I am asking $17,000 or best offer
Car is used right now as a daily driver and has been very reliable. I
only need to sell due to unforseen financial difficulty, believe me,
I would keep her forever if i could.I will get pics up here as soon
as I can, but trust me, this car is very near new condition.
MUST NOTE: ONLY SERIOUS INQUIRIES PLEASE
( I understand that there are many youngsters on here that like pics
and stuff, but only seriously interested respond)
Thanks for your attention.
Sincerely,
Steve T.
#2801 Long Island, NY
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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 15:57:34 -0000
From: "brucedduncan" <bduncan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: speedo broken, help needed
Last night, its pouring rain...i'm on my way home and my needle
starts going back and forth, about 20MPH on either side of my speed.
It does this a few times with a few seconds in between..then it goes
all the way to 0 and then to 85 a couple times. Then it behaved
itself the rest of the way home, about another 15 minutes. This am,
the rain had stopped and as soon as i drive away on the way to work i
hear squeaking coming from below the steering wheel, down near the
footwell of the drivers side. It continued when i was moving for
about 10 minutes, till it stopped. After another 25 minutes the
needle started bobbing and then completely died.
where do i start? (but i presume i will probably end by buying a
$200 part :) )
thanks
bruce
1265
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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 11:20:00 -0500
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: ASI Radio for Sale?
I am toying with the idea of putting my ASI radio (recently removed) up for
auction on e-bay.
I am trying to decided if i should sell the original console with it,
seperately, or not at all.
Let me know if you are interested in either. If I decide to put them up on
auction (farest way to do it), I will post to the DML prior.
The ASI radio is 100% working and in GREAT shape!
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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 16:06:11 -0000
From: "bmw_delorean" <giastardust@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Looking for a Delorean
I'm looking for a Delorean in Europe at a low price (about 10000-
12000 euro)but in good conditions,that is to say no crashed!please
contact me at giastardust@xxxxxxxxxxx
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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 16:52:31 -0000
From: "gr8old1" <Gr8old1@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Concourse closing note
> MODERATOR NOTE: I did intend to end this thread today. However,
> quite a few posts to this thread vanished into the Yahoo void
> yesterday...
Speaking of the Yahoo Void and this thread. my last post never made
it..
"If anyone wants to bribe a judge, look into the scale model
competition if it goes on.. I'm sure i could easily be bribed.."
j/k
See you in Memphis!
Jeff Chabotte
webmaster: http://www.88-mph.com
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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 16:58:17 -0000
From: "txgrnbrt" <txgrnbrt@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Let's try again; Facts and "The airline terminal" - Concours d'Elegance
[MODERATOR NOTE: This message, though overly long, calls FatBoy's credentials into question, a relevant topic for this discussion. - moderator Mike Substelny]
Fatboy:
Email is a wonderful thing.
A garbage man can pretend to be a prince, and you can pretend to be
an expert, without revealing your true identity.
You spent a lot of time researching the list to demean everyone you
could, and hit us with a litney of opinions, all flawed.
Sir, this isn't about spelling or grammatical correctness, and this
isn't about you. You are not important; you don't have the intestinal
fortitude to admit who you are - but think you're qualified to slam
any and everyone that could possibly disagree with your narrowminded
opinion.
That said, we as DELOREAN OWNERS (not wannabees) have the final say
on this - IT'S CALLED THE DELETE BUTTON!
De Oppresso Liber !
Jim
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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 12:19:11 -0500
From: mgailey@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Air metering adjustment
---------------------- Forwarded by Matthew Gailey/EMI/Merck on 03/27/2002 12:25
PM ---------------------------
Matthew Gailey
03/25/2002 12:10 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
cc:
Subject: Air metering adjustment (Document link: Database 'Matthew Gailey',
View '($Sent)')
Dear list:
NOTE: Please keep in mind that this is all completely theoretical- I have not
actually done this. I'm just curious as to how one would do such a thing if one
was actually stupid enough to do what I am curious about.
Now, does anyone out there know a good starting place to set the 3mm CO2
adjustment screw thingy if they were actually dumb enough to diasemble to air
metering housing and play around in there?(Perhaps messing around with the
adjustment while they were in there...) I'm looking for measurements, number of
threads visible, or anything that may help.
Once again, I have not actually done this- I would never, ever, ever, be that
idiotic. Never.
Oh yeah, if Ed Herrmann's out there- sorry I haven't kept in touch. This damn
car hasn't run for about 6 months now, and I haven't had too much time to screw
around with it. If it ever runs again, we'll start that Savannah D Club.
Matthew 3946
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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 12:34:11 -0500
From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Clarification...
I haven't read the DML is a couple of months due to being very busy. The only reason I'm sending this e-mail is because I've received several private messages/e-mails about people getting me confused with another DML'er. I feel I need to clarify this. There is another DML'er who shares the same name as me and I think some people are confusing him with me. He and I share the same exact first and last name. Even DMC Houston confused him with me once and sent me one of his packages by mistake! So, it's entirely understandable for anyone to make that mistake. (Don't worry, I shipped the parts back ;-) ) But please realize that I'm in NJ and the other Daniel D. lives in Florida. I don't know who he is, and I've never spoken with him. I don't know if I really wish to speak with him either... nothing personal, just think it's weird that we have the same name and both drive DeLoreans! LOL! Anyway, please remember, I'm DanRC30... try not to confuse me with the other Dan D. Thanks!
---Dan
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 12:34:11 EST
From: jrc2905@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: T-panel height
I was going to make a fiberglass mold from mine, I appreciate the information
but it is not clear on how u do it.
John Cabral
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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 17:41:33 -0000
From: "john572905" <jrc2905@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Transmission parts
I want to replace all my shaft seals on my 5 speed. I there a vendor
who carries everything I need.
Also can anyone tell me how to reduce this screen back to normal size.
It someone got enlarged and I cannot reduce it.
Thanks
John Cabral 1077
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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 12:39:21 -0600
From: Robert Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: catalytic heat shield
The factory catalytic converter and muffler heat shield were made of
asbestos. When handling and removing these material. Make sure they
are wet to minimize any dust generation..
THe aftermarket replacement are non asbestos and have better water
stability.
BOB
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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 13:57:57 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: catalytic heat shield
At an SEDOC event about two years ago in Georgia, a guy not on the DML,
Byrne Henninger was demonstrating a new heat shield kit. This is made of a
flexible waterproof material that wraps around the cat (like a cuff) and is
held in place by some metal brackets. It was very well done. Because the
sheild is so flexible, I don't think you have to move any part of the car to
get it in place. Byrne is the same tinkerer who designed new front lower
control arms and a kit that allows the rear suspension to take common
aftermarket shocks. (The guy ain't no dummy.)
I think that the heat shield for the catalytic converter is very important.
In the archives you can read about situations where a rich running engine
will cause the cat to glow red hot. I have seen a DeLorean that has had
this happen before. The owner had to replace the muffler because it was
damaged by the excessive heat. He didn't replace the cat; although, I'm
sure the it is toast. The part of the frame next to the cat has the epoxy
all cracked, flaking & rusted. In comparison, the matching part of the
frame on the other side of the engine compartment still looks new. Perhaps
it is the case that if your engine never runs too rich, then you won't need
a heat shield for the cat, but I wouldn't take that chance.
Probably the best way to get in touch with Byrne is to check out John
Hervey's web site, http://www.specialtauto.com/ since John is selling
Byrne's front lower control arms & rear shock kits. I'm not sure if he is
selling the heat shields, but he would be the one to ask.
Walt Tampa, FL VIN 03633 WATSDAT ?
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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 15:48:19 -0500
From: "Willie Mack" <wmack@xxxxxx>
Subject: newest member of the 110k club
Delorean 5043 became today the newest member of the 100,000 mile club and
she's still running strong.
Willie
http://filebox.vt.edu/users/wmack
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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 20:03:15 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: speedo broken, help needed
Bruce - Based on the "squeaking" noise in the driver's side footwell,
I'm going to suggest that the lower cable has bid you a fond farewell.
It is also possible that the Lambda counter has failed, but that is
unlikely. The lower cables are not a big deal - all of the vendors
carry them. My personal recommendation would be
www.delorean-parts.com , but any good source would be fine. If it's
not the cable, then the next possible failures are with the little
plastic "dust cap" that actually drives the lower cable through the
angle drive, or it could be the angle drive itself ($$). I would
definitely focus on the lower cable first. BTW - When my cable failed
(as you can see, I speak from experience), I simply had a new one made
at a local shop. The outer casing was good, but the actual drive
cable inside the casing had broken. A replacement cost me about $12,
and I simply slid it into the upper end of the casing, without removal
of the angle drive or anything. Whatever you do, don't panic!
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "brucedduncan" <bduncan@xxxx> wrote:
> hear squeaking coming from below the steering wheel, down near the
> footwell of the drivers side. It continued when i was moving for
> about 10 minutes, till it stopped. After another 25 minutes the
> needle started bobbing and then completely died.
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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 15:17:54 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Transmission parts
John,
Have you talked with any of the vendors?
Scott Mueller
002981
-----Original Message-----
From: john572905 [mailto:jrc2905@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, March 27, 2002 11:42 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Transmission parts
I want to replace all my shaft seals on my 5 speed. I there a vendor
who carries everything I need.
Also can anyone tell me how to reduce this screen back to normal size.
It someone got enlarged and I cannot reduce it.
Thanks
John Cabral 1077
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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 17:04:00 -0500
From: "Josh Haldeman" <jhaldeman@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: New design for Delorean?
Hi there,
I'm an Industrial Designer from Cincinnati, and as a project a few years
ago, I did a brief design study on a "new" DeLorean. I posted a side
elevation on my website and on the DML pic-of-the-month site. Mine can be
viewed at:
http://www.geocities.com/delorean-12/99dmc-12.jpg
I also have a model built of this concept...but thus far, I have no pictures
of it. I think even this idea could stand some updating, given the recent
revelations about some of the features John plans on putting into his new
car.
I have had the opportunity to show this concept to Mr. DeLorean, and he
seemed to like it. No plans for production yet, though. (haha)
Cheers,
Josh Haldeman
VIN 5102
VIN 15964
----- Original Message -----
From: dasani1234 <dasani1234@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2002 10:41 PM
Subject: [DML] New design for Delorean?
> Has anyone seen a new design for the DMC 12? What I am talking about
> is what a Delorean would look like in 2002 if it was to be a new car.
> I know there are alot of designers out there and would be interested
> in seeing an up dated design.
> From what I have seen of the DMC2, Im not that interested...
[moderator snip]
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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 22:47:05 -0000
From: "tmasterlc" <tmasterlc@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Concours
(Moderator, I sent this Monday and it must have went BTTF, because it
was never posted. Maybe you can get this one in.)
Well, here goes my 2 cents worth on the Concours subject.
If your out there wondering if you should go for it after all you
have read lately...YES do it, its a blast!
Prior to doing the Houston Concours in 2001 we did 24 local shows
just to prep and learn more about what is needed to have a winning
show car. We went to Cleveland and watched the judges, asked
questions, and spoke with the competitors. What did we learn...
Clean, repair, clean, replace, clean, refinish, and clean some more.
Even clean the areas you can't see. Work the areas you think nobody
will ever look at. In doing this you will get to know your ride
better than you ever imagined. You'll find things you need to fix or
repair that you might not have notice till later on. But the main
thing is Do It For the Fun. Don't do it for the big prize money
(not!), or the national recognition (not!), or even the trophy. Do
it for fun and if you come away winning...great.
For us, the biggest return on participating in this event was the
people we met and the new friendships we started. This far outweighs
the other rewards. We were impressed that each and every judge took
the time to tell us what areas of our D might be improved on but also
gave out compliments on what they were impressed with. Even got some
pointers from a prior Concours (Cleveland) winner. Good people, good
time. This is the least expensive way I know of to get your car gone
over for three hours by people that enjoy the D and have a large
collective base of knowledge about the D.
Do it and have fun. If you don't win, learn and come back stronger
next time.
Ron & Cheryl Wester
#6322 2001 Houston Concours Winner
#1529 "We're hooked on the D and got another one :~} Hopefully we'll
have this one ready for the modified/custom class in Memphis.
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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 23:02:18 -0000
From: "graves_14" <tylergraves@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Directional disengage no longer works properly
Now that I have a perfect suspension and steering rack, my
directionals are no longer disengaging properly (does it ever end!?).
The mechanism seems to be working only if the wheel is spun around
several times and then back again. After some close inspection, it
looks like there is a ring with a bump on it that must disengage the
blinkers but it is located 180 degrees from where I think it should
be. My question is: can this be corrected without getting another
alignment? Can I pop off the wheel and rotate the plastic ring to
it's proper position and replace the wheel?
I'm assuming that the bump should be at the 9:00 position with the
wheel centered and tires straight.... it is currently at the 3:00
position.
Thanks,
Tyler #3472
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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 00:20:41 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Air metering adjustment
Have a look on the DMCnews tech page for Knut's instructions on removing the Lambda
sensor. This should give you some ideas based on reading the voltage from the lambda
sensor (worked for me).
Martin
#1458
mgailey@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>
> Dear list:
> NOTE: Please keep in mind that this is all completely theoretical- I have not
> actually done this. I'm just curious as to how one would do such a thing if one
> was actually stupid enough to do what I am curious about.
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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 00:20:47 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: speedo broken, help needed
_start_ by checking the plastic hub cap (take off the left front wheel). This cap should
fit snugly into the hub. Check the square hole in the centre - is it still nicely quare
or is it rounded off? If it's square and the fit is snug, try turning the cable end by
hand - it should be stiff but movable. You could try spinning it in the chuck of an
electric drill , though if the angle drive has siezed, you'll most likely break it by
doing this!
Martin
#1458
brucedduncan wrote:
> where do i start? (but i presume i will probably end by buying a
> $200 part :) )
>
> thanks
> bruce
> 1265
>
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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 19:17:55 EST
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: Car Show New Catagory
Just a reminder that the DeLorean Car Show has a new catagory for frame off
restorations. These can be stock or modified as we don't have many for the
catagory.
Please don't start a thread on judging these I don't think I can take it. LOL
Also remember the model catagory.
We have no concours catagory for these yet (thank God) so its see what you
can do to one to impress the judge. Jeff is the guru of this one so his rule
is law.
Ken
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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 19:43:42 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Noisy fuel pump (still!) (and again!)
I'm still trying to find out how to keep my fuel pump quiet after it gets
hot. Here is what I have done so far:
Replaced fuel pump: still noisy.
Replaced fuel suction line with PJ Grady's & installed make-shift NAPA fuel
suction screen: still noisy.
I figured that maybe my problem was from the new fuel suction line
collapsing or from the cross-reference fuel suction screen. I installed a
screen-door spring in the fuel suction hose and modified the fuel suction
screen. Since I have heard noisy fuel pumps on other DeLoreans with the OEM
fuel suction screens, I figured maybe they were too restrictive. The NAPA
STS-36 when new is less restrictive, but it is not made to rest on the
bottom of the tank where it will eventually collapse & restrict the inlet
under it's own weight. So I got a short piece of the left over screen door
spring and put it inside the fuel suction screen. I did this by cutting the
bag open, putting the spring in and then 'welding' the end closed with
JB-Weld (oh I just love that stuff! :-) I am satisfied that this monkey-rig
fuel suction screen is now 'custom high performance' compared to OEM.
And the pump still makes noise when the fuel gets hot!
I pulled the fuel sender and stuck a thermometer in there. It read 118
degrees F! Can you believe the fuel got that hot with about an hour's
driving? I think that the upper limit for household hot water heaters is
120 degrees F, and even that will scald people. I do not think it is a good
thing for the fuel to be this hot even if it didn't make the pump noisy.
I measured the level of the fuel with a stick & found that there was 7cm of
fuel left. I got a mechanic's mirror & flashlight (one that won't ignite
fuel vapors) and looked inside the tank through the fuel sender hole. It
was hard to see in there, but I could tell that everything was in place and
not kinked. The fuel level was still high enough to cover the bottom of the
pump.
Now I am on a mission to find a way to keep the fuel cooler. This is not so
much just to keep the pump quiet but also I think it will make the fuel
system components last longer. Many people have recommended installing an
air dam between the tank & the fans. Can anyone supply photos or
dimensional drawings for this? An idea I just came up with today is
replacing the aluminum pipes running on either side of the fuel tank using
long pieces of silicone hose. This will insulate better than aluminum. I
am also planning on installing a fuel line cooler. There is one in the
SummitRacing catalogue as part # FLX-4136. It doesn't give any pressure
ratings, but if installed in the return line, pressure rating isn't much of
a concern. Can anyone say what it will take to match up -6 AN fittings to
the DeLorean fuel system? Can anyone suggest other kinds of fuel coolers?
Walt Tampa, FL 03633 lic. WATSDAT
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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 20:36:40 EST
From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Air metering adjustment
usually only a few threads are visible. Maybe 1/16 of an inch. Mine has been
in the shop for 6 weeks while my fuel distributor is being
replaced/corrected. Start with no threads visible and work 1/4 turn at a
time. Although this adjustment is supposed to be done at a shop with the
correct Co2 equipment. good luck
mike c
2109
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 22:34:31 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Air metering adjustment
Matthew, If you will look on the web site, I have pictures and info as to
where to start and how to adjust. My car is right on the money, and real
simple. When the car is hot or normal operating temperature, place the 3mm
allen wrench in the hole till you feel it rest in the head of the cap screw,
Now. Don't take it out till your through adjusting. With the car idling, turn
the wrench counter clock till the car begins to trimble or start starving for
gas, you will feel the motor as I said start to tremble. Then turn it 1/4
turn clock and the tremble should go away. That's it.
Call or email if I can help further
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/fuelsystems.shtml
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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 22:41:08 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: catalytic heat shield
Walt and others, The heat sheild is on the web site under others. Lower left
hand corner.
John
http://www.specialtauto.com/accessories.shtml
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