To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. charging system failure
From: Louie G <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Re: E-CHECK
From: fjk143@xxxxxxx
3. RE: On the topic of AC blowers...
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Not so hot start problem
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Emissions Test
From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Water pump woes
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Lights Staying on...
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: What to do?
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Toby TABs (was Re: Drive Axles thunking?)
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Water pump woes
From: "dmcman82" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Water pump woes
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
12. Re: What to do?
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
13. axles hit TA covers
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
14. Re: lowered front end and jacking?
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
15. Re: Re: E-CHECK
From: "Rob Hook" <rob_hook@xxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: charging system failure
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Water pump and related
From: "dherv10" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
18. Re: axles hit TA covers
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Porsche engines in a DeLorean
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <mpolans@xxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: Water pump woes
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. AC blower motors
From: "dherv10" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
22. ELECTRICAL BLUES
From: Lance Haslewood <lanceh@xxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Renault 25 V6 Turbo for sale
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: Emissions Test
From: "gr8old1" <Gr8old1@xxxxxxx>
25. Checking Alternators (WAS:charging...)
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 10:43:30 -0800 (PST)
From: Louie G <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: charging system failure
Ok... I did a really dumb thing this weekend. I got tired of looking at my dirty engine block, so I used some spray on cleaner, and used a hose to clean it off (D'oh!). I thought I was very careful with the hose, but now my charging system has ceased working. When I got in my car to drive it the day after I washed the engine block, the battery light came on in the dash, and the voltage slowly got lower and lower until the car died. Can anyone tell me what I did to my car? How do I fix it? Thanks in advance!
Louie Golden
#10115 (AKA "The Bomb")
_____________________________________________________________
It's not too late to get your 1/18 scale Diecast DeLorean model! To order, call 800/USA-DMC1 or visit our online store at http://www.delorean.com
_____________________________________________________________
Run a small business? Then you need professional email like you@xxxxxxxxxxx from Everyone.net http://www.everyone.net?tag
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 14:01:03 EST
From: fjk143@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: E-CHECK
Rob,
What is the "guaranteed to pass additive" that you used. I have a new hot rodded engine in mine from DMC Houston and it will not pass either...
Thanks,
Fred
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 14:13:21 -0500
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: On the topic of AC blowers...
Mine was spinning the wrong direction. I hooked it up like my old one, but
it ran backwards. So, with I followed Walter Coe's advice and reversed the
polarity. Now it runs like a champ.
> Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 07:46:32 -0500
> From: "Jack Stiefel" <jackstiefel@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: RE: On the topic of AC blowers...
>
> I had the same problem, and Dave Bauerle fixed it for me when
> I lived in
> Ohio. As I recall, it was a resistor that was bad. A very
> simple fix,
> in fact he did it as I was picking up the car. I don't
> recall where it
> was or which one was bad, maybe someone else here remembers
>
> Jack & Virginia Stiefel
> 1981 DeLorean Vin 3461 August 1981 Build (Ours)
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 19:57:10 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Not so hot start problem
You should not be messing with the mixture adjustment screw. It is a
very sensitive adjustment so that 1/8 turn can mean the difference
between passing emmisions and not passing. Generally they do not need
to be adjusted. If there is an emmision problem it is usually
corectable by finding the problem and repairing or replacing it, not
"tweaking" adjustment screws. Now that you have moved it the only way
to properly reset it is to get on an exhaust gas anylizer. To cure a
hunting problem make sure the air flow sensor (the round plate) isn't
rubbing the housing. Next have all of the injectors cleaned and tested
so that you can get a set calibrated very close to each other. Do a
compression test on the engine and verify all cylinders within less
than 5%. Install new spark plugs and wires. Set the timing. If you do
all of this and have no vacuum leaks the engine will not hunt or surge
at idle when warm. Do not try to correct a hard start problem by
adjustments as there is no adjustment that will help unless the
mixture screw is WAY out of adjustment. Make very sure that there is
NO vacuum leak at the hole above the mixture screw, there is supposed
to be a tamperproof plug in there but I have seen golf tees, tape,
screws, etc and sometimes nothing at all!!!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
-- In dmcnews@xxxx, DHughes030@xxxx wrote:
> In a message dated 3/11/02 3:33:45 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> jtrealty@xxxx writes:
>
>
> > What do you mean by "adjusting the idle screws"? The 3 brass
screws
> > are supposed to be lightly closed period
>
> David, I am talking about the idle mixture screw on the air flow
sensor arm.
> Walt, I'm certain that the recent adjustment resulted in the
unmasking of
> this concern because I set the screw right a few months ago and
found that it
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 16:06:56 -0500
From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Emissions Test
shoudn't our cars be exempt from emissions testing now that they are 20
years old?
Tom Watkins
#005732
http://www.geocities.com/outatime81
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 23:12:45 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Water pump woes
Hi All
#2727's water pump is knackered. It currently looks like a bomb's gone off inside the
engine bay (you all know the score). However, our garage confidently ordered a
replacement pump and it arrived that afternoon from a Volvo parts place, and we got
Darryl's machined pulley to fit to it. One problem
The end casing didn't fit
Here's a photo of the two pumps side-by-side. You can see the difference.
http://www.cix.co.uk/~mgutkowski/DCP02412.JPG
So me being the resourceful type, I rang around a few places I found on the Volvo Owners
Club website and soon got an end casing to fit the new pump. One problem
It's the wrong way round
The outlet of the pump is the other side to the DeLorean's! Why on earth would they do
this? I'm wondering if anyone else has had the same problem and if there's a part number
we can use over here. Renault have been no joy, and the X-ref on the old pump matches to
the mirror image.... is ther eanother version of the engine where the pipe it connects to
has the port on the other side? THe pump's a perfect match otherwise.
We'd like to get this sorted out by this weekend as our mechanic's back from holiday.
Best Wishes
Martin
#1458 (on behalf of Rich and #2727)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 23:15:07 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Lights Staying on...
Thanks Robert - it's defnitely on my "to do" list! I'm just happy to have finally sorted
out the steering column lower bushing. That'll last a week, and I'll be back to my list
:-)
All the best
Martin
#1458
therealdmcvegas wrote:
> I can't remeber if it was Les, or Walt, but they posted to the list
> using vacuum line caps on the ends of the switches to extend
> their "reach" so they get pushed in farther. I did this on my car,
> and the problem was solved!
>
> -Robert
> vin 6585
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 23:19:37 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: What to do?
Wilhelm, you may find some of these links useful for picking "Volvo brains"
http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/parts2.htm
I can tell you water pump's different too *grumble*
Best Wishes
Martin
#1458
DOC UK
wilhelm starberg wrote:
> Hi,
>
> The previous owner of my car installed a brand new Volvo engine a
> couple of years ago, I think it is from a 760 - it looks identical to a DeLorean engine.
>
> There is a couple of things done that I find a bit strange:
>
> -The vacuum line between the charcoal canister and the throttle edge tapping is missing.
>
> -There is a vacuum line going straight from the throttle edge tapping to the spark advance
> on the distrubitor - the solenoid valve is bypassed.
>
> -The control pressure regulator seems to be a "760 type" - no vacuum conections.
>
> -The thermal control valve is not used.
>
> What is this? should I buy a new CPR and the other stuff that is missing, and make the vacuum
> system "original" again - or should I leave it as it is.
> Does not the vacuum line between the charcoal canister and the throttle edge tapping serve a purpose?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Wilhelm Starberg
> #10816
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 00:42:46 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Toby TABs (was Re: Drive Axles thunking?)
Walt - I wanted to get back to you on a couple of points that you
brought out here, just so that you have the story behind what you have
found. Sorry Moderator - This could be a long one!
>Anyway, the Toby TABs are a work of art. You even have your name
>engraved on the head. And what's the deal with that little dollar
>sign symbol? I know they cost a lot to make but...? :-)
The "dollar sign" is actually an "S" with an "I" superimposed on it.
That's the corporate logo for the manufacturer ... Sonic Industries. I
had to put some kind of name on it to accommodate their production
tracking system. The popular vote was to call them "TOBY-TAB's" (I
blame Jim Sawyer)
>Want some constructive criticism? The 12 point head is nice, but
>believe it or not, I didn't have a 12 point non-metric socket to fit
>it. I ended up ...
The bolt blanks were part of a large order by Boeing, and I was able
to buy a slight excess production on the order. Since they ordered
12-point heads, and it was the only way I could get them at the price
that I did, I was forced to accept the 12-point head configuration.
Without that concession, the bolts would have cost another $12 - $15
each if totally custom-made from scratch.
>(torqueing) at 90 degrees I figure the difference is canceled. I
>assume you have an opinion on this?
You are absolutely correct in assuming that no correction is necessary
if your crows foot or other adapter is at 90 degrees. Good job!
>I suggest selling each set of bolts with it's own set of
>instructions.
I hadn't considered "multiple kit" purchases like this. Thanks for
the suggestion.
>Also, I'm a believer in jam nuts. I think you should sell the bolts
>with extra nuts even if it raised the price by another buck or two.
>I'm used to seeing jam nuts supplied with the PJ Grady TABs.
I sent you an email directly regarding this issue, but I will repeat
myself a little for the benefit of the List. The use of jam nuts is
perfectly okay, and is more or less a personal preference in joints
that are not actively rotating. For rotating joints, a jam nut or
other mechanical lock is very necessary. If the TAB's are properly
torqued, there should be no rotation of any of the parts in the
stackup. All motion should be accommodated in the rubber bushing. A
self-locking nut is adequate for this installation. As I told you, I
will talk to Darryl about including some other nuts in the kit, for
those who feel better with jam nuts. It may affect the price a little
bit ... there is no profit margin to speak of in this project. Any
thoughts from the rest of you on this topic?
>I would have rather you used metric sizes, and I'm sure your overseas
>customers would agree even more.
Sonic Industries is not tooled up for metric applications at this
point, so it was necessary to use SAE threads to avoid having to front
additional tooling charges for new metric thread rolling dies.
Unfortunately, quite often convenience comes with a stiff price tag.
>I had a really hard time getting the bolt through the trailing arm
>until I realized that it was catching on the shoulder at the base of
>the threads. That is a big shoulder as bolts go. Maybe if you made
>the next batch using metric threads then this wouldn't be a problem
>[sly grin].
See above. I do apologize for not mentioning this aspect of the
installation. I experienced the same thing on a couple of the cars
that we installed the prototypes in.
>I think it would be a good idea if you sold new bushings with the
>bolts. This would of course raise the price some more, but it makes
>sense to do them together.
I agree, and I am still working to find a vendor that wants to talk
seriously about urethane replacements. I didn't want to buy a bunch
on OEM bushings from Houston or someplace, and hope to be able to move
a relatively expensive package of parts. We had to dig deep to fund
this project as it is.
>That old bolt was so bent that it took the sleeve out with it. We
>had to cut the bolt to get the washers off.
There are some contributors to the list that need to note this
comment. Hello?
>It would be really great if you provided new harder washers with it
>too.
I kept having to look at the price point for the kits. People have a
hard time buying bolts for this price as it is. Good hardened flat
washers are quite expensive.
>I think that Toby TABs are definitely the way to go(unless you are
>spending $9K on a stainless steel frame :-) Sure Toby-TABs are
>expensive, but wow. They are so much stronger than anything else
>that could be used. I don't think that any other kind of bolt could
>be made to work as safely.
Exactly.
>What is the life expectancy of an OEM TAB that is kept properly
>torqued? I don't think it would last very long. I've seen two bent
>TABs now that weren't loose -- just bent. Why did they bend?
Good question. The compressive yield strength of the OEM bolts isn't
that high. I get yelled at when I go off on a technical tangent, so I
would suggest wading through the articles that I wrote that are in the
Tech section. I talked about the bending strength a little. If you
have more questions ... give a shout, and I'll take a shot at getting
you the answers.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 01:03:57 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Water pump woes
I used an Airtex water pump and the part number is AW9146.
Perfect match and Darryl's pulley fits perfect.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi All
>
> #2727's water pump is knackered. It currently looks like a bomb's
gone off inside the
> engine bay (you all know the score). However, our garage
confidently ordered a
> replacement pump and it arrived that afternoon from a Volvo parts
place, and we got
> Darryl's machined pulley to fit to it. One problem
>
> The end casing didn't fit
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 20:23:46 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Water pump woes
Martin,
I'm getting ready to do the same thing you are with your water pump. I've
got one of Darryl's pulleys also. I'm having trouble seeing what is wrong
by your picture. I suppose you aren't showing the problem piece in the
photo. Anyway, is it possible to reuse the end casing from the OEM pump?
Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 21:03:01 EST
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: What to do?
In a message dated 3/12/02 1:32:37 PM Eastern Standard Time, wilm@xxxxxxx
writes:
<< Does not the vacuum line between the charcoal canister and the throttle
edge tapping serve a purpose?
>>
This vac line connection at the throttle edge tapping opens a purge curcuit
for the cannister when the throttle valve butterfly opens. This allows vapors
collected in the can to make it to the intake tract to be burned with the
normal fuel air mixture. If the connection is not provided to provide vac
when the throttle just comes off idle, then the tank will never purge.
Jim 6147
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 21:03:59 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: axles hit TA covers
I was looking under my car today and noticed some strange recent wear marks
on my rear axles. I gave a thorough look around and noticed complimentary
dents on my trailing arm shields. I have OEM rear springs with PJ Grady
shocks set with the snap ring to the highest groove. I tend to take that
last 90 degree left turn going to my street at around 35 mph when the road
is dry and the tires are hot. I'm thinking that maybe excessive body lean
is why the passenger side is dented more since it is a left turn that I
generally try to test the car's limits. So what's the deal with this? Is
it normal for the axles to hit the trailing arm shields?
Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 21:14:06 EST
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: lowered front end and jacking?
In a message dated 3/12/02 1:37:05 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rob_hook@xxxxxxxxxx writes:
<< If I'm not mistaken several people have complained of tow hooks breaking
off. Does that answer the question? >>
I knew there would be a reply to this. So to clarify and do some of the
common sense reasoning we all must be capable of to sucessfully work on these
cars here goes. Don't support it by the tow hooks! But rather on the frame
area directly behind the hooks themselves, to which the hooks are attached.
This is major structural frame area easily capable of supporting the weight
of the car when two jack stands are used. Oh yeah , put one jack stand on the
left and one on the right. :-) Also if the frame area supporting the tow
hooks is so badly rusted that supporting the car is questionable, or that the
tow hooks could break off, then you probably shouldn't be driving it either.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 21:17:13 -0500
From: "Rob Hook" <rob_hook@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: E-CHECK
Fred,
The "Guaranteed to Pass" was actually the name of the product. It didn't
help. As a matter of fact, I'm trying to remember if it made any difference
AT ALL. I think I found it at Pep Boys here on the East coast. It's funny,
if you readthe small print on the back of the label it says that the
guarantee only applies if the engine is running correctly and all emissions
equipment is in good working order. If that were true, you probably
wouldn't need the stuff in the first place.
--Rob
----- Original Message -----
From: <fjk143@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2002 2:01 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: E-CHECK
> Rob,
>
> What is the "guaranteed to pass additive" that you used. I have a new hot
rodded engine in mine from DMC Houston and it will not pass either...
>
> Thanks,
>
> Fred
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 04:38:01 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: charging system failure
There is a good chance you did something to the alternater (like got
too much water inside it and now somewthing shorted out). Go to Sears
or someplace like them and most shops will test your alternater and
battery for free. Then you can decide what to do. In all likelyhood
you will need an alternater and a charge on your battery. Before you
go though check the simple things like electrical connections (clean
and tight) and the belt (not slipping).
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Louie G <louie@xxxx> wrote:
> Ok... I did a really dumb thing this weekend. I got tired of looking
at my dirty engine block, so I used some spray on cleaner, and used a
hose to clean it off (D'oh!). I thought I was very careful with the
hose, but now my charging system has ceased working. When I got in my
car to drive it the day after I washed the engine block, the battery
light came on in the dash, and the voltage slowly got lower and lower
until the car died. Can anyone tell me what I did to my car? How do I
fix it? Thanks in advance!
>
> Louie Golden
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 05:19:17 -0000
From: "dherv10" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Water pump and related
Group, If anyone is having trouble with water pumps or related parts.
We can normally press on and off the factory original pully and re
install it on a new or rebuilt factory original water pump. We also
stock and sell P.J. Grady's new billit aluminum pully. We also build
a pully that you can install yourself without the use of a press.
Email for your questions.
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/engine
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 05:34:19 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: axles hit TA covers
Walt - My drive shafts hit the shields as well. My car has been
dropped about 2 inches in the back, and I run Carrera shocks with
softer custom springs. My shields have grooves worn in them, and the
drive shafts have nice shiny stripes. I wouldn't sweat it ... just
shows that somebody likes to drive their D. If you are concerned, it
is a simple task to carefully trim a relief in the shield so that the
drive shaft has room to roam. Always keep the shiny side up!
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
>Is it normal for the axles to hit the trailing arm shields?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 01:07:33 -0700
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <mpolans@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Porsche engines in a DeLorean
IMHO: this is a BAD idea,
I have a 1984 944. The 2.5L inline 4 puts out 150 hp reliably. I
have a K&N ram-air setup with a slightly bigger throttle body and mass air
flow sensor. I am seeing 161 hp on the dyno. It's great in a front
engine/rear drive 50/50 weight bias car. Let it be noted that I just turned
190,000 miles and I still get 33mpg if I am very gentle. I usually like to
drop the hammer (a 4 cyl. hammer-drop is akin to using the gas pedal like an
on/off switch....:) ) and I see about 24-26 mpg. Overall it sounds great,
right?
So here's my two cents on why it's not a good idea for the D:
Money! Everyone seems hell-bent on saving by cross-referencing parts and
working new ones into the mix. Going with a Porsche engine won't save you
any money. It will cost you an arm and a leg in maintenance the likes a PRV
will never do. $650 for an alternator-new. Timing belts should be changed
every 60-80K miles and if you are in there, why not do a water pump? Don't
forget to retention the timing belt after 3K miles. Did I mention there's
only one tool to use for this, and it is produced solely by Porsche, AG?
How much do you think that costs? Price a set of spark plug wires too. You
will be very surprised.
They tend to run hot too. I found this in NJ. My first summer here
in AZ was nerve racking, although I must admit the stock cooling setup is
kind of efficient. The fans only turn off for a moment in traffic unless
you're using AC, which I do at least 7 months out of the year. I saw
several 110+ degree days. Sure, you can stock up on parts from ebay or pay
a fortune to the one or two companies that still carry them....or you could
call me since I have a garage full of them....:) Either way it's a good
project IF you have the space AND the money. The engine will run forever if
you keep up routine maintenance, but it is going to cost you-plenty. If you
go with the 928 V-8 you are just asking for trouble. Most of the 928's were
plagued by gremlins that never went away. That's why they are so expensive
today. Most of the ones around are the good ones, and they are really
rare....:)
There is a shop in Las Vegas that drops a Small Block Chevy motor
into any Porsche (Hey Richard, it's turnkey for $10,000. Want to drop an
LT-1 into my DeLorean? PLEASE????....:) ). They even sell each piece for
it up into a full kit for the DIY'ers. An LT-1 is about 50-100 lbs. heavier
but you lose some of the Porsche systems and you end up with about a 52/48
weight bias. It's more than double the hp and torque. They run
significantly cooler. Starters and alternators are readily available at the
corner auto parts store in the $150 range. Any gearhead can work on them.
Parts are plentiful and cheap. Most garages see the SBC variant so often
that they really know them well.
If you are looking at an engine swap, do it right. Get the power
you want, within reason to the D's drivetrain. Find a reliable engine that
has a good history and low maintenance costs. Look what Richard Cutter did
with the Northstar V-8. Smart man....solid engine, cheap parts, reliable,
powerful, and the install is beautiful. That's the way to go. Look at
Darryl's blown V-6. Still a common engine (minus the blower), easy to get
parts for, and one of the nicest installs and dress-ups anyone has done to a
DeLorean. These are the people that know. Yes, a Porsche engine properly
maintained will go forever, but you'll pay to keep it running sweet. Ask
Richard or Darryl what their yearly engine maintenance costs are. I bet
mine are triple. Sad but true. Take it from someone who knows.
An LT-1 sounds good....anyone want to buy my 944 inline 4? Cheap....:)
Lots of parts in the garage!
Matthew
VIN #10365
VIN #16816
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 09:25:25 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Water pump woes
The end casing from the original pump does not fit the new pump, and the
Volvo end casing we bought for the new pump has the output port on the
wrong side - why they made two versions is beyond me - operationally
it'd be identical.
The picture was to show that the shape of the casing and how the
position of the mounts is wrong.
I take it you guys've never come across this problem before?
Best Wishes
Martin
#1458
Walter Coe wrote:
>Martin,
>
>I'm getting ready to do the same thing you are with your water pump. I've
>got one of Darryl's pulleys also. I'm having trouble seeing what is wrong
>by your picture. I suppose you aren't showing the problem piece in the
>photo. Anyway, is it possible to reuse the end casing from the OEM pump?
>
>Walt Tampa, FL
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 05:33:36 -0000
From: "dherv10" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
Subject: AC blower motors
Group, I now have AC blower motors that turn the right way with out
modifications or adjusting the wires. If your having trouble. Email
me. I can also make up a quick harness for easy plug and play if
yours happens to be reversed wired. It will be on the site tomorrow.
John
http://www.specialtauto.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 21:01:31 +1100
From: Lance Haslewood <lanceh@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: ELECTRICAL BLUES
On 28 Feb, I posted a message asking for assistance regarding the No7 fuse
which continually blew on engine start. I had a gut feeling that the
problem was associated with the fuel pump but was unable to source the
problem. With the help from several members of the DML and my auto
electrician, who I called after my fruitless effort to locate the cause, we
were able to able to ascertain that the 12V wire to the fuel pump was the
problem. This was confirmed by by-passing the wire. Wallah!! everything
worked fine. The next task was to find where the short was. After a
considerable amount of hunting around, and practically disassembling the
car, it was discovered that one of the self-tapping screws which secured
the boot around the gear lever to the console had penetrated the wiring
harness in the console. Five wires had been damaged including the fuel
pump wire which was earthing through the screw.
In an effort to find the short, I tracked the fuel pump wire from the tank
back including under the dash. Had I started from the fuse box end, I
could have saved myself a considerable amount of work. In the next day or
so, I'll post a pic to the DML showing the damage to the wiring harness and
the location of the offending screw. This may help others in the future.
I wish to thank all those who provided assistance. I very much appreciated
your help and guidance.
Regards,
Lance Haslewood
Australia.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 11:18:33 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Renault 25 V6 Turbo for sale
I have just turned up a 1989 Renault 25 V6 Turbo for sale in West
Yorkshire. This is the 2458cc version of the PRV-6. I've found some pics
of this engine here (not the car in question):
http://www.hut.fi/~minoru/renault/gallery/engine/
The car's in perfect order apart from needing a new clutch. If anyone is
interested in getting this considerably more powerful engine for their
DeLorean, drop me an e-mail - the price is extremely attractive.
Martin
#1458
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 13:43:05 -0000
From: "gr8old1" <Gr8old1@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Emissions Test
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxx> wrote:
> shoudn't our cars be exempt from emissions testing now that they
are 20
> years old?
>
> Tom Watkins
> #005732
>
> http://www.geocities.com/outatime81
That's going to vary from state to state... I know that in CT, exempt
vehicles are 25 years or older.
-Jeff Chabotte
Webmaster: http://www.88-mph.com
Norwich, CT.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 25
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 11:51:45 -0500
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Checking Alternators (WAS:charging...)
A note on this..
I like to get Alternators checked at a store that sells Alternators (like Pep Boys). After they test yours and tell you it is no good, ask them to test the new one. 50% of the time the new one is bad too... Or is it.
It usually turns out that the untrained store employee has no idea how to use the tester, and never wondered why every alternator he/she has ever tested has been bad!
-----Original Message-----
From: jtrealtywebspannet [mailto:jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2002 11:38 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: charging system failure
There is a good chance you did something to the alternater (like got
too much water inside it and now somewthing shorted out). Go to Sears
or someplace like them and most shops will test your alternater and
battery for free. Then you can decide what to do. In all likelyhood
<SNIP>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN
