To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 9 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. RE: On the topic of AC blowers...
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jackstiefel@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Lights Staying on...
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Re: E-CHECK
From: "Rob Hook" <rob_hook@xxxxxxxxxx>
4. Belgian Owners
From: "andy_verbrugghe" <Verbrugghe@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. What to do?
From: wilhelm starberg <wilm@xxxxxxx>
6. Re: E-CHECK
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Hidden treasure
From: "tmasterlc" <tmasterlc@xxxxxxx>
8. Re: lowered front end and jacking?
From: "Rob Hook" <rob_hook@xxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Door Ajar light stays on all the time...please help
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 07:46:32 -0500
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jackstiefel@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: On the topic of AC blowers...
I had the same problem, and Dave Bauerle fixed it for me when I lived in
Ohio. As I recall, it was a resistor that was bad. A very simple fix,
in fact he did it as I was picking up the car. I don't recall where it
was or which one was bad, maybe someone else here remembers
Jack & Virginia Stiefel
1981 DeLorean Vin 3461 August 1981 Build (Ours)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 09:01:20 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Lights Staying on...
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx> wrote:
> Who's our electrical guru? :-)
<SNIP>
> As to chasing down the bugs in my system: The design of the
dome lights themselves is so
> inconceivably awful, that once today shutting the door turned
the interior light ON,
> which then proceeded to dim on the timer....
>
> I also have a problem with the switch on the pass door - going
round a left hand turn a
> bit quick usually results in the door ajar light flickering. Not a
major problem in
> itself, but if they're set, the blasted dome lights switch on. I've
been meaning to
> twiddle the switch myself.
>
> Martin
> #1458
It's quite poosible that both problems are one in the same.
Closing the door too hard jiggles the switch, and turning left
forces it out against the contact.
I can't remeber if it was Les, or Walt, but they posted to the list
using vacuum line caps on the ends of the switches to extend
their "reach" so they get pushed in farther. I did this on my car,
and the problem was solved!
-Robert
vin 6585
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 09:29:19 -0500
From: "Rob Hook" <rob_hook@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: E-CHECK
Something that I haven't seen anyone mention on this thread is the
catalytic
converter. When I took my car for its first emissions test it failed both
HC and CO. I had already taken all the normal precautions including new
plugs, wires, cap, rotor, oil, air filter, check for vacuum leaks, etc. I
also made sure the car was at full operating temperature by running it on
the highway for a while before going to the test center. It still failed.
And I DID try a "Guaranteed to Pass" additive. Didn't help.
What I discovered later was that my catalytic converter was EMPTY. There
was just nothing in it. Now, my car was previously owned by a cop
so...read
that whichever way you want. I replaced the catalytic converter and the
car
passed with flying colors.
The cats are a little expensive but very easy to put on. I did it in
about
2 hours (including time to clean the engine off first).
--Rob
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 15:30:21 -0000
From: "andy_verbrugghe" <Verbrugghe@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Belgian Owners
Hello everybody
I was just wondering if there are any Belgian Delorean-freaks on this
list ? You don't have to be a owner of a Delorean. Please contact me
through my personal email : verbrugghe(AT)hotmail.com
Regards
Andy Verbrugghe
VIN#04610
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 18:11:49 +0100
From: wilhelm starberg <wilm@xxxxxxx>
Subject: What to do?
Hi,
The previous owner of my car installed a brand new Volvo engine a
couple of years ago, I think it is from a 760 - it looks identical to a
DeLorean engine.
There is a couple of things done that I find a bit strange:
-The vacuum line between the charcoal canister and the throttle edge
tapping is missing.
-There is a vacuum line going straight from the throttle edge tapping to
the spark advance
on the distrubitor - the solenoid valve is bypassed.
-The control pressure regulator seems to be a "760 type" - no vacuum
conections.
-The thermal control valve is not used.
What is this? should I buy a new CPR and the other stuff that is missing,
and make the vacuum
system "original" again - or should I leave it as it is.
Does not the vacuum line between the charcoal canister and the throttle
edge tapping serve a purpose?
Thanks,
Wilhelm Starberg
#10816
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 08:50:21 -0500
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: E-CHECK
> Great Wise ones.... I just purchsed my D over the weekend and went
> to get the paperwork done and since there is a Title change in Ohio I
> have to get an E-Check (Emissions check) done..... and to my horror
> it Failed.
This happens now and then. The whole purpose of the E-Check is because
cars slip out of
adjustment (especially after 21 years!) and you can't detect it yourself.
In 8 years my Ohio DeLorean has failed the E-Check twice. After minor
adjustments it
passed.
> has any one got any pointers out there. I do not want
> to have to drive it to any ole mechanic and I am very apt on working
> on my own cars but have never had an emission issue ever.... the tech
> said that it was not burning all the fuel. Any suggestions
What part of Ohio? In central Ohio, I recommend Dave Bauerle. But if his
shop in
Radnor, Ohio is not convenient for you, this little problem isn't serious
enough to
travel very far. You ought to be able to find someone nearby. I know a
very good
mechanic for the DeLorean engine on the East side of Cleveland: Larchmere
Imports, on
Larchmere near Shaker Square. Feel free to mention my name.
- Mike Substelny
VIN 01280, 9 years
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 18:08:54 -0000
From: "tmasterlc" <tmasterlc@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Hidden treasure
Thought the list might enjoy the drawing found in the left rear
quarter panel of #1529.
Look in the photo album Miscellany under Hidden treasure. Enjoy!
Ron
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 09:32:59 -0500
From: "Rob Hook" <rob_hook@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: lowered front end and jacking?
If I'm not mistaken several people have complained of tow hooks breaking
off. Does that answer the question?
--Rob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 11:05 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] lowered front end and jacking?
> > Support on jack stands at the tow hooks.
>
> Can someone else confirm that this is an acceptable method to support
the
> front of the car while working on it?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 08:53:27 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Door Ajar light stays on all the time...please help
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Senatorpack@xxxx wrote:
<SNIP>
> The door light switches are 20+ years old. The switches need
to be adjusted, or replaced with parts from a DeLorean supplier.
<SNIP>
Just to add to this, replacement of the switches isn't always
nessisary. It is possible to simply service them. I took mine
apart, sanded the corrosion off, and bent the metal contacts to
connect properly. Service/replacement of the switches is
something to consider. After a few hours with the door CLOSED,
my switches were getting hot. Worred about an electrical hazard,
I cleaned mine, and they've been cool ever since.
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
<<attachment: winmail.dat>>
Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN