[DML] Digest Number 921
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[DML] Digest Number 921



Title: [DML] Digest Number 921

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------------------------------------------------------------------------

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

      1. Re: Rotary engine
           From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
      2. Re: Re: better door "launchers"
           From: "Michael  Quinto" <mquinto@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
      3. Re: repairing OEM fuel sender & Tankzilla
           From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
      4. Re: Infinity Kappa 32.1 cf speakers...
           From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
      5. Re: A new alternator problem!  (And a radar detector install to boot)
           From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
      6. It  cannot go that fast!
           From: "Palatinus, Joe" <jopalatinus@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
      7. Re: A DeLorean moment
           From: "outatym2001" <mvanyo@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
      8. Re: My climate control panel is getting hot...
           From: "outatym2001" <mvanyo@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
      9. RE: Infinity Kappa 32.1 cf speakers...
           From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     10. new owner!
           From: "dmcjohn" <dmcjohn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
     11. Re: Power lock options
           From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     12. completely adjusting throttle linkage
           From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
     13. cold running problem
           From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
     14. PJ grady visit, Purchasing questions.
           From: "dmcburn75" <dmcburn75@xxxxxxxxx>
     15. RE: A new alternator problem!  (And a radar detector instal    l to boot)
           From: Cirillo Ronald A NPRI <cirillora@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     16. DeLorean Easter Egg
           From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
     17. Re: Rotary engine
           From: "Multiplex" <mux@xxxxxx>
     18. Re: how many cars was:the aversion to customizing?
           From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
     19. Rebuilding the CPR
           From: "cdrugly" <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
     20. Re: Rotary engine
           From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
     21. delorean in detroit, mi on the news
           From: "James LaLonde" <krfds@xxxxxxxxx>
     22. St Pat's Parade Dallas Tx
           From: "dloreanboy" <dloreanboy@xxxxxxx>
     23. Re: My climate control panel is getting hot...
           From: Andrew Smith <aos+yahoo@xxxxxxxx>
     24. Annual Cincinnati St. Pat's Parade
           From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman@xxxxxxxx>
     25. Re: Re: Rotary engine
           From: "Chris Boden" <cboden@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>


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Message: 1
   Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 21:42:45 -0500
   From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rotary engine

Both of you guys are too late, unless you want to be second.

I've already fitted my 3-rotor cosmo to my porsche 6-speed transmission
and modified the frame to fit both in.  The Cosmo dash looks really nice
in place of the stock one, I will say. 

If anyone else is thinking about the rotary (including you geeks), I'd
highly suggest the 13b 2-rotor over the 3-rotor.  It's harder to get
parts for, and an english owner's manual doesn't exist!

Who said the Delorean couldn't be a dragster? 
Sorry to the purists who may be offended by this.

Jim (learning japanese)
1537- frankenlorean... It's alive!!! alive!!!





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Message: 2
   Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 21:12:52 -0800
   From: "Michael  Quinto" <mquinto@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: better door "launchers"

Sorry Noah,
Those are not the same actuators that everyone is speaking. Those actuators
you found are for industrial machine use. And they operate by air, we are
referring to these 12 volt actuators and solenoids.

http://www.autoloc.com/search.lasso?partno=sl
http://www.autoloc.com/search.lasso
Also I never looked at the Linear actuators that autoloc sales. I only seen
the two wire clutch actuators.
These might work, but they are a little pricey.

You've helped out after all Noah, Thanks.

Mike




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Message: 3
   Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 00:23:26 -0500
   From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: repairing OEM fuel sender & Tankzilla

Now that I have had a few people tell me that the OEM fuel sender isn't
worth repairing and to buy a Tankzilla instead, I'll say that I was doing
just the opposite -- replacing my Tankzilla with the OEM!  Crazy?  Well,
I'll explain.

When I first bought my Tankzilla it had 3 problems: A leaky gap at the top
where fuel would slosh around the gasket and out of the tank, a gasket that
was made of the wrong kind of rubber and got very hard in a few days, and
too large & too many holes in the bottom of the sender allowing the float to
move too quickly giving me a continually wild bouncing fuel gauge every time
I turned or changed speed.

The vendors involved (DMC Joe & PJ Grady) eventually told me that it was
defective and asked me to send it back so that they could send me another
one.  But first I was told by DMC Joe to just goop it up with Form-A-Gasket.
I liked JB-Weld better, so used that to neatly fill the voids.  When I
mentioned this on the DML, then the (well something) hit the fan and I sorta
upset some people by badmouthing a product that should have been replaced
under warranty.  Anyway, in a long discussion with Rob Grady, he explained
that to address the too-sensitive float problem they were filling some of
the holes in the bottom with rivets, but stopped doing this because it was
labor intensive, didn't look professional (enough to suit Rob anyway :-) and
made it harder to fit in the tank.  Rob sent me a new gasket of better
material BTW.  These guys really stand behind their products (if you let
them :-)  Nonetheless, I think it is good to mention these things on the DML
so that people will know to look for these problems on older units, but on
later made ones I'm sure they worked the bugs out.  (Not withstanding that I
am the sort of guy that will find a problem if there is one to be found.)

While I had the epoxy mixed up, I filled the two bottom holes in the
aluminum and also filled the upper hole, but re-drilled that with a smaller
bit.  The results were worth the effort, but I still saw room for
improvement.  That was more than a year ago.  Recently I removed the
Tankzilla to fill two of the three slots in the blue plastic piece at the
bottom to further decrease the float's response time.  I was also curious to
see how the epoxy held up to being soaked in fuel for more than a year.
Well, JB-Weld is excellent.

While I was working on the Tankzilla, I needed something to put back in the
DeLorean since it is my only drivable vehicle.  (Oh darn, the Suburban blew
a gasket; looks like I'm going to have to drive the DeLorean again today.
Well, I would rather drive that anyway :-)  So that is why I repaired the
OEM sending unit.  I'm going to play with it for a while longer before going
back to the Tankzilla because this tinkering is just plain fun!  I'm taking
photos & will write up a tech page on it when I'm done.  I believe that the
OEM can be made reliable, but there are several parts that need soldering.
John Hervey's low fuel switch reworking is a good idea too.  I think I'll
try making something up out of flexible copper strips that skid by (or rub)
each other at the bottom.  Or maybe a weak magnet to hold it down when it
reaches the bottom, but the float may not be buoyant enough for it to
unstick afterwards.  The Tankzilla could use something like this too, but
it's not quite as bad.  The electronic module that makes it compatible with
the DeLorean has a delay built-in, but this could stand to be lengthened a
bit (at least on mine.)  Maybe newer ones are different.

If you want to hear the beginning of this story, check the DML archives from
last year where I mention Tankzilla in the subject line.

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 4
   Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 00:34:22 -0500
   From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Infinity Kappa 32.1 cf speakers...

> any problems with the tweeter protrusion on the dashboard?

Yep.  I installed Blaupunt 3.5" speakers in my dash, and the tweeters push
up the dash pad a bit.  People see this and get all upset that it is going
to cause my dash to crack.  Someday I want to make some kind of adapter ring
to set the speakers lower into the dash giving the tweeters more head space,
but that is hard to do.  The threaded studs coming off the dash are too
short to use spacers on the speakers and too long to add extensions to them.
If I tried the extensions, then the speakers would be sitting too deep in
the dash.  I suppose that cutting holes in the dash & adding mesh grilles
would be heresy.  I'll either wait for it to crack or get around to changing
the studs.  But I would probably have to take the dash out for that.

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 5
   Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 00:36:42 -0500
   From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: A new alternator problem!  (And a radar detector install to boot)

> I'm really not sure how this could be done any differently, but if I've
> made a mistake, I'm all ears.  :)

Have you tried putting the Motorola alternator back on to see if it still
works?  From your description it sounds like you have everything connected
properly.  What doesn't make any sense to me is how your 'dead' wire could
make the Motorola work at least half way but not John Hervey's.  Maybe that
dead wire is a new problem that started during the swap.  The wire connects
to the "ignition-on" through a light bulb in the dash.  Theoretically, when
the alternator fails, it will ground out this wire enough to illuminate the
bulb.  So maybe your bulb has an open filament.  And then when you instead
tie the alternator's feed to a low impedance B+, it tries to ground it out
to warn you there is a problem.  But instead this cooks whatever is left of
the regulator (in the alternator) while it makes a whistling noise.  (This
is just a theory; I could be wrong.)  I venture a guess that you have two
problems: a bad alternator and something wrong with your light wire.  Also,
check your grounds.

John Hervey stands behind is products and is sure to have an answer for you
that probably makes my explanation a moot point.

Walt    Tampa, FL





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Message: 6
   Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 01:07:36 -0500
   From: "Palatinus, Joe" <jopalatinus@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: It  cannot go that fast!

(Moderators Note: Ok guys, we're NOT going to start a thread on this. If you can help Joe out with some info, please respond directly to him. Any responses to the DML will be rejected. Marty, this weeks moderator)


Hello group,
I got a speeding ticket today in my Delorean on I-40 in NC.  I was
reading the speedometer to be between 80 and 85, and the officer said he
clocked my going 120 MPH!  I could not belive this, I told him that that
is immpossible, but he wrote me a ticket for reckless driving and
speeding 120 in a 65.  I have never been able to get my car to go over
100, it just can't do it, there is not enough flat land over here in the
east to get her going 120 MPH.  I would venture to say that it is not
possible for my car to get up to that speed in the area where I got
pulled over, is there anyway to prove this?  Also The officer did not
seem to follow procedure, as he came over to my passenger door and
opened it in a rather harsh fashion to ask me for my license and
registration(and slammed it too).  I believe that because it is the end
of the month he was trying to reach a quota and decided to screw me
because I was in a car that looked fast.  Anyone have any police
officers you believe profiled you because of your car?
Joe Palatinus
VIN 17167 6808 



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Message: 7
   Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 09:37:11 -0000
   From: "outatym2001" <mvanyo@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: A DeLorean moment

Tony, great story about emptying the store of customers and employees
just cuz they had to see your DeLorean.  You should expect to have
many more interesting looks centered towards you and your DeLorean.

Your no start problem may be fixed by looking up:

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/starterfix.html

It explains starter solenoid circuit modification.  Because on early
vehicles (prior to VIN 2547), the starter solenoid's operating
voltage, in certain conditions, was not high enough to ensure a
consistant, reliable operation.

Looks like you have VIN #10781 so the above may not apply to you.

It sure as heck applied to me with VIN #2261.  My mechanic showed me
a trick to get around the, 'No start' problem until I finally applied
the starter solenoid circuit modification.  My 'D' starts beautifully
every time now.

If you want to know the trick send me an email.

Mark R. Vanyo
Lic  OUTATYM
Seattle, Washington
pndc.org




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Message: 8
   Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 11:00:17 -0000
   From: "outatym2001" <mvanyo@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: My climate control panel is getting hot...

Andrew and the DML.

Here is the link to, "Modification to Air Conditioner Control Panel
Lighting"

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/acpanellites.htm

It explains which relay to remove and where to insert the wire in
place of the relay.  I have done this to my 'D' and it works.

But, I also found something interesting after removing the black
vinyl, center console.  In order to see this you have to remove the
three A/C panel dials and the single screw holding the panel in place.
The four bulbs that light up your A/C panel may be pressed up against
the back of the panel.  Each bulb is housed in a metal socket with
two wires out the back.  That metal socket is taped into place inside
a black plastic socket.  If this metal socket is taped in a way to
force the bulb too far out of the hole, it will press the tip of the
bulb against your plastic A/C panel.

To allow the bulbs to still light the panel but not touch the back
side I just pulled out each metal socket from behind the panel
removed the old black tape and wrapped the socket with a little bit
of grey duct tape.  And reinserted just far enough so the bulb
doesn't touch anything.

Congratulations on owning a DeLorean.

Mark R. Vanyo
VIN #2261
Seattle, Washington
pndc.org

P.S.  I still haven't figured out a dictionary term to describe some
of us DeLorean owners who spend more money on their 'D' than their
bank account allows.




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Message: 9
   Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 08:34:55 -0500
   From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Infinity Kappa 32.1 cf speakers...

I used some flavor of infinity speakers in the front.  I chose them because they were the only ones I could find that did not have the tweeter protrude beyond the speaker frame.  Of course, this is done because Infinity has a spacer ring around the frame.  If you can place the speakers FLAT on a table (tweeter down), then they will work fine. 

The only problem you will have is that the studs in the dashboard will not be long enough for the speaker.  I got a barrel nut (I think sometimes called binding screws, or sold in sets of "sex bolts and barrels") from a local hardware store and cut a slot in it with a dremel so I could use a screwdriver to tighten it.  I have since found that some companies make slotted barrels, so if you can find them it will save you the extra step of cutting the slot.  The real problem was finding Metric sizes, so I used the closer SAE size and although you cant crank down on them (they just keep spinning), it has held for 3 years now.



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Message: 10
   Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 13:59:55 -0000
   From: "dmcjohn" <dmcjohn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: new owner!

Hi everybody,
Well, I finally own a DeLorean! Vin #SCEDT26T5BD003810. It is a
September 1981 (September 15th according to the writing under the
headliners) with black leather and a 5 speed trans. The interior is
perfect. The frame is perfect except for a very very small bit of
rust on the front, but the shock towers are all fine. I picked it up
in Pennsylvania on Saturday, and it drove the 340 miles home to
Boston no problem. Even we sitting in traffic for the George
Washington bridge in NY for about 1 hour, the car never even came
close to overheating. It barely even got to the halfway mark on the
temp gauge. Does this sound about right?
The car has 12,000 miles since new. All the gauges work, including
the speedo!, but the fuel gauge never reads full, even after a
fillup. Is this something tankzilla would fix? Other things include a
small bit of noise off the fuel pump when the gas tank is less than
half full. Also, the electric windows go up and down fine, except
that the motor does not stop turning when the window closes, so if I
don't take my finger off the button, the gears will grate off each
other. Is there a fix for this?? Jobs to be done over the next few
weeks include getting PJ Gradys lowering kit with the nitrogen
shocks, and eventually all the zilla products when I save up the
money! And of course taking care of the rusty bit on the front of the
frame...
I'm looking forward to meeting some of you at car shows over the
summer, and of course in Memphis in June.
Best wishes,
John Dore, in Boston, MA.
#3810





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Message: 11
   Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 08:17:28 -0600
   From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Power lock options

I will have to find the part and look up the numbers.
THey were from mid 70s or 80s full size GM.  THere are more modern gear drive door lock
motors also.
BoB

Richard Strecker wrote:

> Bob,
>
> Now that you've opened the can, let the worms out & tell us what GM
> part.
>
> Richard



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Message: 12
   Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 10:35:26 EST
   From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: completely adjusting throttle linkage

hey everyone,

i am pleased to report that my car is running at about 97% perfection after a
complete winter of tuning it up, rebuilding some parts, and cleaning others. 
i have two problems left but i will only address one of them under this
subject heading.

i was wondering if someone out there who is really 'in the know' could
explain how to adjust the throttle.  i want to know what needs to be adjusted
under what conditions, etc.  right now my problem is that my butterfly flaps
aren't opening fully under full-throttle, but i don't really know where to
adjust that or how much to adjust it.  also, my idle speed microswitch does
not engage unless i hit the gas hard and drop it quickly, hitting the switch
harder. 

i need to know where to start from scratch with the gas pedal stop-screw and
work my way up through the throttle spool, the linkage, and the idle speed
striker screw.

it would be much appreciated!

Andy

Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 13
   Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 10:44:40 EST
   From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: cold running problem

guys,

here is the other problem i have as i mentioned in my previous post.  right
now it is around 15-30 deg F in this part of the country (ND).  i just had my
entire fuel system and engine regulating systems checked and serviced by PJ
Grady, who did an excellent job on everything.  but a problem the was around
before i had the service is still lurking in my engine somewhere. 

it seems that when i start my car and drive it w/o letting it warm up and the
ambient temperature is low (15-30), the car will shudder and refuses to
accelerate past around 3000 RPM, no matter what gear you are in.  the RPM
gauge goes up slowly as you accelerate (the engine feels underpowered when
this happens) and right at about 3000 RPM the smooth sound of the engine
breaks up and turns to a rhythmic JUN-JUN-JUN-JUN until you switch gears and
go to a lower RPM, then when you get up there again, it breaks up again. 
this continues for maybe the first 90 seconds of driving.  then it's gone and
doesn't come back until the start the car again when it is cold.  hot or warm
starts do not result in this problem.

like i said, my entire air meter assembly, fuel system, and lambda system was
either replaced or fully serviced by Grady last month so i do not believe it
to be a problem there.  i have installed new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and
coil , as well as a new lambda sensor.  about the only thing that i didn't
send to Grady or replace was my thermotime switch, which didn't seem to be
damaged or operating incorrectly, but the symptoms would point to something
of this sort.  also, last summer my entire fuel tank area was replaced, so i
don't believe it to be a fuel system problem.

any ideas or things to check?
Andy

Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 14
   Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 16:06:40 -0000
   From: "dmcburn75" <dmcburn75@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: PJ grady visit, Purchasing questions.

Hi all. It has been a while since I posted to this list. Since I am
within several months of purchasing a DeLorean I better get back in
the loop. I live on Long Island, NY and this past Friday, before
paying a visit to family on the east end of LI I dropped by PJ Grady.
I initially just wanted to take a quick look around. After briefly
looking around I ran into one of the mechanics. It wasnt Rob and Im
sure he gave me his name but I cant recall. He was however extremely
cordial and even let me get a closer look at the car. Pointing out
some good points. For one that I should beware of cars sold in Queens,
NY. Good advice since I have seen 4 in the past year in a classic car
warehouse.
I would like to ask the group if my expectations of price and use is
realistic. I want to spend no more than $14,000 on the car. I guess my
use would be considered daily driver but it would only be driven about
5 miles a day(to and from work and/or local errands, I have a jeep for
long hauls). As far as repairs go.. The mechanic at grady's I spoke to
said I can expect to put in about $1,000 a year average. Now, I know
many people believe that you get what you pay for and would easily say
get one for around 25,000 to avoid hassle but hummor me anyway. Also
my brother and I would like to do a little work on the car ourself.
My brother is a disabled NYC firefighter, we always wanted to do
something like this and we now have the time. So, am I crazy to expect
to get a DeLorean for 14,000 and be able to do with it what I stated
above? Lastly can you give me and average yearly cost of maintance?
All advice is greatly appreciated. Have a great day!





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Message: 15
   Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 11:27:48 -0500
   From: Cirillo Ronald A NPRI <cirillora@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: A new alternator problem!  (And a radar detector instal    l to boot)

Andy,

Just a quick observation.  If you are indeed running from the jumpstart post you have hot wired in 100% duty cycle.  No alternator will last long in this configuration.  If you are not careful you will fry your battery anything else as you are running open loop and the voltage will climb well in excess of 14.5 volts.  Find out what is wrong and correct it.  Look at the regulator first.

Ron

 -----Original Message-----
From:   Andrew Smith [mailto:aos+yahoo@xxxxxxxx]

I was experiencing very low voltage so I picked up the 150 amp alternator, but after installation I've run into a new problem:  the field coil is getting no power.........In the meantime, I've hooked the field coil on the alternator directly to the jumpstart post (only while driving, so I don't drain my battery) and it works great.



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Message: 16
   Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 12:33:22 -0500
   From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean Easter Egg

I was replacing the passenger side speaker (a process I hope to never have
to do again) when one of the nuts fell down behind the carpet along the wall
beneath the dash. I stuck my hand down behind the carpet and felt something
strange. When I pulled it out, it was an extra interior trim panel. The
piece that rests against the armrest and that typically gets knocked loose
when you slide your butt into the car.

I have no idea how this panel got there, but it's brand new. I'm thinking
it's been there since the car was built.



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Message: 17
   Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 17:44:21 +0100
   From: "Multiplex" <mux@xxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rotary engine

Cool stuff!!

A friend of mine crashed my RX7 about a week ago so I got a donor engine if
you want it:-) I don't think I'll be building a rotary engine in my Delorean
just yet:-) But it sounds very interesting!

Greetz,

Bas



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Message: 18
   Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 13:34:35 EST
   From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: how many cars was:the aversion to customizing?

In a message dated 2/23/02 11:51:33 AM Eastern Standard Time,
deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx writes:

> Not to challenge your figures, but the last I heard,
> the DOA had dropped to less than 1500 members.
> Perhaps they have recaptured some members by now.
> Also, a surprising number of DMLers are also DOAers so
> there is some double counting there.  Maybe we are
> looking nearly 4000 cars.
>

  My son and wife are listed on my DOA membership.  Don't know if they consider
us one member of their total count or three, (either would be legitimate, I
figure,) but we only have one DeLorean. Likewise my son and I both are
DML'ers. Actually, I personally am "two" since it get it digest form in a
different screen name for archival purposes. And some DML'ers are not owners,
just tire kickers. (Like I once was.) Really kind of hard to tell from any of
these subscriber lists.  Considering how rare it is to see one on the road,
there may be only a few hundred actually on the road. Other than in the
vicinity of a car show or D shop, (or ones I was test driving,) I've only
once seen one on the road in the last twenty years!  I know there were at
least five other local or fairly local owners.

Wayne A. Ernst
11174


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 19
   Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 18:40:58 -0000
   From: "cdrugly" <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Rebuilding the CPR

Has anyone had luck simply rebuilding/cleaning their CPR or is it
generally better to replace it?




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Message: 20
   Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 21:36:24 -0000
   From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rotary engine

--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Chris Boden" <cboden@xxxx> wrote:
<SNIP>
> Already working on it :) Once we locate an old DeLorean to get
donated (HELP!) The Geek Group plans to refit it with a Mazda rotary
engine or possibly even a 3-rotor Cosmo engine :) Should give it a
serious bit of kick.
<SNIP>

Good luck on that! I really hate to bring anyone down, but chances
are that you're not going to get anyone to donate an item of that
size and type to you. In this case, the problems are two-fold:

1. Unless you are an established non-profit organization, you
probably wont get any bites. I know this sounds cold, but pretty much
everybody who would be in a position of donating a car is going to
ask you that one big question: "What's in it for me?" Usually this is
answered with a tax deduction.

2. You've chosen to radicly modify what is regarded by many to be a
beloved car. As you have seen here on the list, many people have
strong feeling twards the cars. So stating that you want a car to
outright modify may hurt the chances as well of someone helping your
group out.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 21
   Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 18:12:22 -0500
   From: "James LaLonde" <krfds@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: delorean in detroit, mi on the news

i didn't get to see it, but my mom and friend saw a bit of it and told me.
there was a piece on delorean's new car and watch on the news in the detroit
area. it had an interview with an owner from around here, and was talking
about how you buy a watch you're assured the right to buy a new delorean car
when (if) they come out.
anyone know anymore about any new developments?
is that owner out there? i'd like to meet sometime, email me if you're on
the list.

james lalonde 001697



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Message: 22
   Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 23:25:06 -0000
   From: "dloreanboy" <dloreanboy@xxxxxxx>
Subject: St Pat's Parade Dallas Tx

Looking for anyone wanting to show their car off in the Dallas parade
Sun March 17th 2pm... This is our 3rd year and have been invited back.
Will be covered by Local Channels 5 & 8.  Contact John Yerskey at
dloreanboy@xxxxxxx 214-522-8436 or John Hervey at 972-564-9321
specialty auto.com

We NEED MORE THAN 2 CARS!!




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Message: 23
   Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 18:37:38 -0600 (CST)
   From: Andrew Smith <aos+yahoo@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: My climate control panel is getting hot...

On Mon, 25 Feb 2002, outatym2001 wrote:

> Here is the link to, "Modification to Air Conditioner Control Panel
> Lighting"
>
> http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/acpanellites.htm

Excellent.  I'd run across this before, but lost the URL.  I'll definitely
be making this modification.  Thanks.

> P.S.  I still haven't figured out a dictionary term to describe some of
> us DeLorean owners who spend more money on their 'D' than their bank
> account allows.

I believe the word you are looking for is "enthusiast."  :)

-andrew
 #4115, Houston TX




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Message: 24
   Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 19:46:03 -0500
   From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Annual Cincinnati St. Pat's Parade

Hey List,
    Once again it is time for the St. Patrick's Day Parade in
Cincinnati.  I'm trying to get all you local guys to come out of the
woodwork this time around!  Last year we had 4!  FOUR stinkin cars, when
the DOA says we have at least 23 in the area.  Come on you guys, let's
get everyone out there this year!  We'll even take Kentucky and Indiana
imports if you can make it.  Call or e-mail me to get the details.
    So far I've got Ken Koncelik, Jack Gambetta, My Dad and myself
confirmed.  WE CAN DO BETTER!
        Look forward to hearing from you,
        Josh Haldeman
        513-624-6609
        jhaldeman@xxxxxxxx





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Message: 25
   Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 19:49:23 -0500
   From: "Chris Boden" <cboden@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Rotary engine

---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date:  Mon, 25 Feb 2002 21:36:24 -0000

>--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Chris Boden" <cboden@xxxx> wrote:
><SNIP>
>> Already working on it :) Once we locate an old DeLorean to get
>donated (HELP!) The Geek Group plans to refit it with a Mazda rotary
>engine or possibly even a 3-rotor Cosmo engine :) Should give it a
>serious bit of kick.
><SNIP>
>
>Good luck on that! I really hate to bring anyone down, but chances
>are that you're not going to get anyone to donate an item of that
>size and type to you. In this case, the problems are two-fold:
>
>1. Unless you are an established non-profit organization, you
>probably wont get any bites. I know this sounds cold, but pretty much
>everybody who would be in a position of donating a car is going to
>ask you that one big question: "What's in it for me?" Usually this is
>answered with a tax deduction.

No problem :) The Geek Group is not only a 501(c)(3) certified non-profit corporation, but with membership in 14 countries and 28 states we're the largest of our type on Earth :) Check out our sponsor page, we give deductions for companies all over the world in exchange for donated goods and services.


>
>2. You've chosen to radicly modify what is regarded by many to be a
>beloved car. As you have seen here on the list, many people have
>strong feeling twards the cars. So stating that you want a car to
>outright modify may hurt the chances as well of someone helping your
>group out.

I *fully* understand, I have a serious passion for DeLoreans myself, that's why:

1. We're looking for a DeLorean that is NOT in mint condition, I could never destroy such an endangered species.

2. All of the parts we remove from the car will be sold back into the DeLorean community instead of put on a shelf to rot, or shipped to a landfill. Not one part of this car will be destroyed, even down to the nuts and bolts, it will either live in this DeLorean, ot in someone elses.

--
Christopher A. Boden
Geek#-1 Rank G-6
President/C.E.O.
C:Cg:Chd:Cm:Cl:Cs:Csd:E:Ea:Ec:Hc:Hd:Hm:Ht:Ht:Hv:U:Ua:Uc:Ud:Uh
The Geek Group
www.thegeekgroup.org
Because the Geek shall inherit the Earth!




To donate to the Group click here.
https://www.paypal.com/xclick/business=info%40thegeekgroup.org&item_name=A+private+donation+to+The+Geek+Group+click+here%21&no_shipping=1

--



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