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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 24 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: WAS John Delorean and Reliability..NOW saving the cars (VERY LONG)
From: "s_spartz" <s_spartz@xxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Help: How do I fix my trunk latch?
From: "dmc83_gullwing" <jasperkins@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Crossover pumps
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. RE: Re: the aversion to customizing?
From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
5. Re: Re: Crossover pumps
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
6. Re: a better door launcher?
From: Farrar Hudkins <fhudkins@xxxxxxx>
7. repairing OEM fuel sender
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
8. Re: Crossover pumps
From: "dmcman82" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Crossover pumps
From: "dmcman82" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Digest Number 917
From: Jack The Stripper <motti@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: repairing OEM fuel sender
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
12. RE: crossover pumps
From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. A DeLorean moment
From: Tony Pistachio <TheStash@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Crossover pumps
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. RE: better door "launchers"
From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Crossover pumps
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Re: a better door launcher?
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Re: Crossover pumps
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: repairing OEM fuel sender
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: Help: How do I fix my trunk latch?
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
21. 1/43 rd Scale Models
From: "John Hanley" <j0hnhanley@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. RE: Re: the aversion to customizing?
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
23. RE: Help: How do I fix my trunk latch?
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
24. RE: repairing OEM fuel sender
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 17:44:28 -0000
From: "s_spartz" <s_spartz@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: WAS John Delorean and Reliability..NOW saving the cars (VERY LONG)
NOTE: Dear moderator I know I am talking about the NEON but only in
reference to the DMC. I personally would never own a NEON, nor do I
intend to.
I was wondering if anyone remembers the Dodge NEON? I remember when
dodge rolled this bugger out and how proud they were to be able to
bring a "NEW Car" to the market in only 5 years. They were able to
do this with a complete crew of trained workers,engineers, plants
already running and PLENTY OF MONEY!
I do believe that Mr. Delorean went from nothing to a complete
running factory built from the ground up in less than 3 years.
In my opinion the Delorean is one HELL of a car considering what had
to be accomplished in the time frame.
I also believe that the NEON was one of the most recalled vehicles
of the day. You can correct me if I am wrong.
Just my 2 cents on the subject.
Thanks
No VIN yet
but I will have one, oh yes I will have one.
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, kayoong@xxxx wrote:
> Folks:
>
> Again, I would like to share my experiences.
>
> IMO... Mr. John Z. DeLorean engineering abilities are great. Look
at the 60s
> Pontiac's GTO and the other improvements he made for the different
GM lines,
> when he was there.
>
> The DMC-12 is a well engineered and laid out car in the 1980s.
For all it
> problems that is does have, it does perform well from the new and
small
> company in the 80s. Remember, it was only in the business of
three years. I
> am sure if the company were to be in operation for an additional
three years,
> they would have upgraded and corrected many of their problems and
weakness,
> which haunts it. Besides, how many US, European or Asian cars in
the 1980s
> are still on the road and in demand like the DMC-12 today for its
price
> range? What other vehicle in the 1980s was so radical and had so
many frills
> like the DMC-12. I can't remember any US made car that did for
the money. I
> do remember the US car market was getting their pants kick out of
by the
> Japanese cars. The DMC-12 in Japan is revered by car enthusiasts
and very
> sought after.
>
> All cars have problems or "quirks." Porsche, Lambo, Ferrari, RR
and Bentley,
> BMW, NSX, Lotus, and etc for example all have their quirks and
problems and
> yet they are STILL sought out and own by various car enthusiasts
and
> collectors. No matter how much work and money one invest into
them, they are
> plague with problems just like the DMC-12 and maybe more. It is
matter of
> living and dealing with them. Do remember, when the DMC-12 came
out in 1981,
> it was a decent car and it did compete and held it own against
many other
> sports cars in its class comfortably, so, why are some of you
people trying
> to compete or compare a 1981, a twenty-year-old car to a current
one? It is
> like buying a house. A twenty year old home most likely won't
compete or
> compare with a present built home. Time and technology changes
things ... so,
> enjoy the homes and the cars for its worth and keep up with their
maintenance
> in both the same way.
>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 21:13:28 -0000
From: "dmc83_gullwing" <jasperkins@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Help: How do I fix my trunk latch?
I noticed the other day that my Trunk (engine cover) loop latch had
fallen off, and was stuck in the release mechanism. After getting
my wife to pull the trunk release, I was able to remove that eye
hook from the release mechanism.
Now the problem I have found is that the plastic hole which holds
the Eye Hook has worn down over time. I cleaned out the hole, but
the eye hook no longer stays in. I tried to find a anchor of some
sort, but I could not find one that fits. Has anyone ever had an
issue like this? I tried even making the hole tighter with plumbers
tape, but still the eye hook wont stay snug.
I need a good work-around to keep that eye hook in the hole. Any
recommendations?
Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 19:45:35 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Crossover pumps
Richard - Darryl Tinnerstet (www.delorean-parts.com) has a custom
pulley that allows the use of a stock Volvo water pump. Several PNDC
members have gone that route with great success, and the pulley looks
awesome. The fuel pump with a replaceable check valve is a better
deal, as the original pump had to be completely replaced if the check
valve "checked out" permanently. Darryl has those better pumps as
well. The prices for the fuel pump are very competitive with other
sources "out there" for the same part numbers. The fuel pump fit is
important because the seal boot that fits around the pump must provide
a perfect seal so that you don't have gasoline leaking out around the
pump body. Some things you just don't want to compromise on (IMHO).
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, RJRavalli@xxxx wrote:
> I am thinking about going with a crossover water pump and fuel pump
instead of ordering the more expensive versions from a vendor. Does
anyone have experience with crossover pumps vs. the same parts from a
vendor? (I remember someone talking about a VW fuel pump that works
awhile go but I don't remember any specifics being given.) Do they all
fit and work the same, or is there a major difference in quality?
>
> Any help would be appreciated,
>
> Richard
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 16:38:59 -0500
From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: RE: Re: the aversion to customizing?
Customize the cars...after all it is a free country, and it is your personal property...to a degree. I prefer the stock look and appearance, since it is, by far, the easiest to own.
Looking over the latest DMC Vin publication released today, only 1100+/- members subscribe to the DML, 2000+/-? members of the DeLorean owners association, another 2000+/- owners who do not subscribe to either. So where are the remaining 3000+/- cars?????????????
Best Wishes,
Michael Pack
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 18:08:33 EST
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Crossover pumps
Thank you for all the help so far...I am still unclear on one thing. If I go with a CarQuest water pump (I called them last year and they said they had it available, so I may luck out there) will I need to buy the pulley seperately, or will this come with the part?
It seems with the feul pump though I should probably go with a D vendor. I'm always trying to do my part to help out the vendors (promoting them, buying their parts, etc.), but on these projects *I* will need a little help this time, if you know what I mean. Need to try and cut the costs back on this as much as possible without sacraficing quality. So thank you for all the advice.
Richard
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 17:19:45 -0600
From: Farrar Hudkins <fhudkins@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: a better door launcher?
Walt:
It seems I read somewhere on this list that modern actuators are up to
50% less weighty than the solenoids, but then my memory isn't very
reliable these days for exact figures. Can anybody else corroborate
this? (Bob B., were you the one who told me that? I haven't dug through
my DML folder today.) If it's true, then you may be able to solve the
heavy door problem with just a couple of replacements for the heavy
solenoids, and you would upgrade your lock situation in the process. A
winner all round, if I'm right.
Everybody have a nice weekend. :)
Regards,
Farrar Hudkins
New Orleans, LA
'98 Ranger XLT "Laggy"
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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 19:44:44 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: repairing OEM fuel sender
I took a stab at repairing my OEM fuel sender last night. I have discovered
that there are a lot of little things that go wrong inside of these --
mostly from fuel residues causing bad electrical connections.
The only problem that I have left is that it took 3 miles worth of driving
for the gauge to make it from empty to full (or should we call that 4/4?)
Do these floats get less buoyant with age? I don't think it is likely that
I have the sliding contacts on the resistive wire too tight. And I'm sure
the float isn't jamming mechanically because it moved freely while dry.
Any ideas?
Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 03:21:23 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Crossover pumps
I have one of Darryl's pulley for the Volvo aftermarket water pump,
it works and looks awesome! Now I have a lifetime warranty on the
water pump so if it ever goes again I can get a free replacement
from any Autoparts store that carries the Airtek brand pump and the
bolt on Pulley Darryl makes will make it that much easier to
replace. Highley recomend it.
As for the Fuel pump, go the vendor route...they have the new fuel
pumps with the external threaded on checkvalve and their prices are
just about the same as getting the Bosch replacement from an
autoparts store.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxx> wrote:
> Richard - Darryl Tinnerstet (www.delorean-parts.com) has a custom
> pulley that allows the use of a stock Volvo water pump. Several
PNDC
> members have gone that route with great success, and the pulley
looks
> awesome. The fuel pump with a replaceable check valve is a better
> deal, as the original pump had to be completely replaced if the
check
> valve "checked out" permanently. Darryl has those better pumps as
> well. The prices for the fuel pump are very competitive with
other
> sources "out there" for the same part numbers. The fuel pump fit
is
> important because the seal boot that fits around the pump must
provide
> a perfect seal so that you don't have gasoline leaking out around
the
> pump body. Some things you just don't want to compromise on (IMHO).
>
> Toby Peterson VIN 2248
> Winged1
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, RJRavalli@xxxx wrote:
> > I am thinking about going with a crossover water pump and fuel
pump
> instead of ordering the more expensive versions from a vendor.
Does
> anyone have experience with crossover pumps vs. the same parts
from a
> vendor? (I remember someone talking about a VW fuel pump that
works
> awhile go but I don't remember any specifics being given.) Do they
all
> fit and work the same, or is there a major difference in quality?
> >
> > Any help would be appreciated,
> >
> > Richard
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 03:22:49 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Crossover pumps
The water pump will not come with the pulley.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, RJRavalli@xxxx wrote:
> Thank you for all the help so far...I am still unclear on one
thing. If I go with a CarQuest water pump (I called them last year
and they said they had it available, so I may luck out there) will I
need to buy the pulley seperately, or will this come with the part?
>
> It seems with the feul pump though I should probably go with a D
vendor. I'm always trying to do my part to help out the vendors
(promoting them, buying their parts, etc.), but on these projects
*I* will need a little help this time, if you know what I mean.
Need to try and cut the costs back on this as much as possible
without sacraficing quality. So thank you for all the advice.
>
> Richard
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 22:32:51 -0800
From: Jack The Stripper <motti@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Digest Number 917
When is this, and where exactly is it?
--Joe
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 18:30:51 EST
> From: jimbo0946@xxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: College of New Jersey Car Show!
>
> I'll be there with my D.
>
> JimmyC
> VIN#15880
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 04:28:17 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: repairing OEM fuel sender
Some on the list have claimed success in "repairing" the OEM fuel
sender. IMHO the OEM sender is a piece of cr-p. It is way too flimsy
and prone to misreading and failure. The warning light is unreliable
even when it works. The best thing you can do for it is to retire it
to your "old parts box". Even I will admit a Tankzilla is expensive
but once you put it in you will probably never have any doubts about
fuel quantity. If you figure what it can cost if you run out of gas
once or twice it makes it a little easier to accept the price. Even if
you get the OEM sender to work how long will it work and can you ever
trust it? On my old OEM sender the float seemed to have swollen and no
longer moved freely inside the tube. I suspect between the aweful fuel
additives and age it wrecked it. The Tankzilla seems to be fine.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> I took a stab at repairing my OEM fuel sender last night. I have
discovered
> that there are a lot of little things that go wrong inside of these
--
> mostly from fuel residues causing bad electrical connections.
>
> The only problem that I have left is that it took 3 miles worth of
driving
> for the gauge to make it from empty to full (or should we call that
4/4?)
>
> Do these floats get less buoyant with age? I don't think it is
likely that
> I have the sliding contacts on the resistive wire too tight. And
I'm sure
> the float isn't jamming mechanically because it moved freely while
dry.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Walt Tampa, FL
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 20:48:58 -0800
From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: crossover pumps
Richard asked: "I am thinking about going with a crossover water pump and fuel pump instead of ordering the more expensive versions from a vendor. Does anyone have experience with crossover pumps vs. the same parts from a vendor?"
I can address waterpump crossovers. Many years ago, when DMC water pump pulleys were constantly being destroyed when removed, and no new ones were available, I designed a bolt-on aluminum pulley that fits on the Volvo version of the pump and has the exact same diameter and offset. Besides offering a remedy for that problem, the Volvo pumps were more readily available, much less expensive, and could often be found at your local import auto parts store with a lifetime warranty. Internally the pumps are the same, but the Volvo uses a bolt flange on the shaft.
Now the major vendors offer DMC-type pumps with pulleys installed for you. But my bolt-on pulley has remained a popular improvement that is hard to keep in stock.
Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
McCleary, WA
www.delorean-parts.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 00:52:46 -0500
From: Tony Pistachio <TheStash@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: A DeLorean moment
Hi all,
Just thought I'd share my first great DeLorean experience. I've had my D for a week now. I have two other daily beaters for commuting. Although I've only drove it a few times, so far the alternator/water pump belt fell off, the passenger window regulator broke at the plastic elbow and I suddenly couldn't open the front compartment. Needless to say the girlfriend couldn't help but get a few digs in. Like "why didn't you get a brand new bmw, corvette or something. "
Never worked on this type of car before but I've repaired the minor problems. Nothing a replacement steel passenger window regulator, new belt and slipping set screw couldn't fix. I also came up with a pretty good way to tighten the alternator belt. Very carefully with a small hydraulic jack and a short piece of 4x4 on an angle.
I only wish the girlfriend was there tonight when I emptied an entire hardware store of personnel AND customers to "check out the DeLorean in the parking lot. " I needed to get my only key duplicated and got a Castanza spot right in front of the store. As I walked in I heard a voice on their walkie-talkies blare; "HEY GUYS - THERE'S A DeLorean IN THE PARKING LOT." Since they all carry a radio it literally echoed throughout the store. Then I realized all eyes were on me! I'm not used to being the center of attention. Sure a few snickered; "where's the flux capacitor?" and "Ya know? If I screw-up your key I can just get in the car and go back to the future before I ruined it." Which didn't make any sense but, hey, the guy makes keys for a living. Hate to sound so rude but I used to make keys too. While I was testing the key the very same jokesters were out there with the other truly interested people surrounding the car asking a lot of questions and wowing at what great shape its in for a twenty year old car. (I'm so glad I had that passenger door skin back on and nobody noticed that the first two times I turned the key the starter didn't kick in. I just heard a click, click, click near the battery - yikes! Now what?) I said to my girlfriend on the telephone (of course not mentioning the hard start thing) that; "I'd like to see a new bmw or vette do that!"
Apologies to any bmw or vette owners but this IS a DeLorean list isn't it? :)
PS:I'll need to search the archives to see what the hard start thing might be. Anybody want to save me the trouble?
Tony Pistachio
#10781 BDX-6324
Wappingers Falls, NY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 05:53:45 -0000
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Crossover pumps
Take a look at
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/waterpumpDMC.html
Photos and all. Only wierd tool you need is a 5-ton(!) hydraulic
press. Doing it again I'd probably go with Darryl's, seems a lot
easier.
Dave Swingle
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, RJRavalli@xxxx wrote:
> Thank you for all the help so far...I am still unclear on one
thing. If I go with a CarQuest water pump (I called them last year
and they said they had it available, so I may luck out there) will I
need to buy the pulley seperately, or will this come with the part?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 21:18:48 -0800
From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: better door "launchers"
Walter said: "I've come across perhaps a better idea for installing door launchers than weighing the door down with additional hardware. My idea is to install the actuator (or solenoid or whatever) in the T-panel or one of the electrical compartments behind the
seats. From there run bicycle brake type cables up through the T-panel and into the doors. Technically the same could also be done with the door lock solenoids which would take a lot of weight out of the doors taking strain off the torsion bars & door struts."
As the only known source of remote door openers (not "launchers") I think I can address this subject. The actuators I use weigh all of 4 ounces! You do not need or want to use solenoids anyway - besides being way too heavy, they demand much more current and are unreliable (like the door lock solenoids). You will not notice the additional weight of a 4 ounce actuator, and it will not require adjustment of the torsion bars like solenoids will. But you were on the right track with replacement of the door lock solenoids with the same actuators - I have been running that same setup in my car for about 7 years with no problems at all. The difficulty with installing actuators in place of the original solenoids is wiring them. The solenoids are grounded and use separate positive wires for the lock and unlock actions. With actuators the two wires must alternately be positive or grounded to lock or unlock. If you are handy with relays its not that difficult to retrofit actuators, but I hesitate to recommend it because most folks aren't comfortable with this level of wiring changes.
As for your bicycle cable idea, as I have reported earlier something similar but much more involved has already been done. There is a red DeLorean in Canada which was brought to Seattle a few years ago to be fitted with remote opening AND CLOSING doors, hood, louver, and engine cover. The doors close by two large pneumatic cylinders lying on the shelf behind the seats pulling on tiny cables which exit the door jamb near the strut and pull on the door.
Anything is possible as long as you bring enough $$$$$.
Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
McCleary, WA
www.delorean-parts.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 06:33:09 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Crossover pumps
Richard - I believe that the stock water pump has a pressed-on
pulley, and that this makes the DMC pump unique. I may be wrong on
that, but ... In any event, Darryl Tinnerstet (http://delorean-
parts.com) has a custom pulley that will allow the use of the more
common pumps (common usually equals cheaper) for the Volvo
applications. I helped a friend change his pump out with one of
these, and it fit perfectly. You may want to check into that. Also,
please email me privately regarding some of the other points that you
made.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, RJRavalli@xxxx wrote:
Thank you for all the help so far...I am still unclear on one thing.
If I go with a CarQuest water pump (I called them last year and they
said they had it available, so I may luck out there) will I need to
buy the pulley seperately, or will this come with the part?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 00:00:41 -0800 (PST)
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: a better door launcher?
Talk to Darryl Tinnerstet. He's already developed an actuator-based door
launching system and sells them through http://www.delorean-parts.com
-Christian
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 09:12:55 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Crossover pumps
In the case of the fuel pump, there really is nothing to it. There's one pump, and it's still available from Bosch. Both James RG and myself have needed new pumps and we've installed the one that references up as superceeding the original. The difference is that it has the integrated check valve, and it's black. Cost over here was £109 and the Diesel Centre sourced it in 3 days, and can
now get it next-day.
Best Wishes
Martin
#1458
RJRavalli@xxxxxxx wrote:
> Thank you for all the help so far...I am still unclear on one thing. If I go with a CarQuest water pump (I called them last year and they said they had it available, so I may luck out there) will I need to buy the pulley seperately, or will this come with the part?
>
> It seems with the feul pump though I should probably go with a D vendor. I'm always trying to do my part to help out the vendors (promoting them, buying their parts, etc.), but on these projects *I* will need a little help this time, if you know what I mean. Need to try and cut the costs back on this as much as possible without sacraficing quality. So thank you for all the advice.
>
> Richard
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 09:15:20 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: repairing OEM fuel sender
The sender has a very small hole at the bottom in what is otherwise a sealed unit - this
is to prevent the sender jumping around when the fuel sloshes about. I suggest you have a
look at that hole and perhaps make it a bit bigger?
Martin
#1458
Walter Coe wrote:
> I took a stab at repairing my OEM fuel sender last night. I have discovered
> that there are a lot of little things that go wrong inside of these --
> mostly from fuel residues causing bad electrical connections.
>
> The only problem that I have left is that it took 3 miles worth of driving
> for the gauge to make it from empty to full (or should we call that 4/4?)
>
> Do these floats get less buoyant with age? I don't think it is likely that
> I have the sliding contacts on the resistive wire too tight. And I'm sure
> the float isn't jamming mechanically because it moved freely while dry.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 09:49:30 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Help: How do I fix my trunk latch?
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "dmc83_gullwing" <jasperkins@xxxx> wrote:
<SNIP>
> I need a good work-around to keep that eye hook in the hole.
Any
> recommendations?
>
> Thanks!
Old fashioned Krazy Glue did the trick for me. Slathered the
inside, mounted the hook, and haven't had a problem in almost
a year and a half.
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 13:44:21 -0000
From: "John Hanley" <j0hnhanley@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 1/43 rd Scale Models
DMC 1/43 rd Scale Models
The Minichamps 1/43rd Scale Boxed Delorean will shortly be available
directly within the UK (March 8th)
Price is £50 inclusive of all taxes and Shipping charges within mainland UK,
Discount is being offered for orders greater than one piece.
contact Martin
Msportproducts@xxxxxxx for further details
John Hanley
VIN xxx69
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 22
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 06:39:03 -0800 (PST)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: the aversion to customizing?
--- Senatorpack@xxxxxx wrote:
> Looking over the latest DMC Vin publication
> released today, only 1100+/- members subscribe to
> the DML, 2000+/-? members of the DeLorean owners
> association, another 2000+/- owners who do not
> subscribe to either. So where are the remaining
> 3000+/- cars?????????????
- - - - - - - - - - -
Not to challenge your figures, but the last I heard,
the DOA had dropped to less than 1500 members.
Perhaps they have recaptured some members by now.
Also, a surprising number of DMLers are also DOAers so
there is some double counting there. Maybe we are
looking nearly 4000 cars.
Dick Ryan
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Message: 23
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 09:37:56 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Help: How do I fix my trunk latch?
Perhaps epoxy is the solution. You can buy five minute epoxy at Wal-Mart or
Home Depot type stores.
Remove the Hood, engine cover and fill the hole with epoxy from the top
side. Over fill slightly and use a toothpick to work out any air bubbles.
How about putting a nut on the end of the eye hook and epoxy that into the
cover. Let it fully cure, perhaps a day or longer so it develops its full
strength.
-----Original Message-----
From: dmc83_gullwing [mailto:jasperkins@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2002 3:13 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Help: How do I fix my trunk latch?
I noticed the other day that my Trunk (engine cover) loop latch had
fallen off, and was stuck in the release mechanism. After getting
my wife to pull the trunk release, I was able to remove that eye
hook from the release mechanism.
I need a good work-around to keep that eye hook in the hole. Any
recommendations?
Thanks!
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Message: 24
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 09:39:00 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: repairing OEM fuel sender
Check your electrical connections. When you remove the sender, does gas
drain out of it?
-----Original Message-----
From: Walter Coe [mailto:Whalt@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2002 6:45 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] repairing OEM fuel sender
I took a stab at repairing my OEM fuel sender last night. I have discovered
that there are a lot of little things that go wrong inside of these --
mostly from fuel residues causing bad electrical connections.
The only problem that I have left is that it took 3 miles worth of driving
for the gauge to make it from empty to full (or should we call that 4/4?)
Do these floats get less buoyant with age? I don't think it is likely that
I have the sliding contacts on the resistive wire too tight. And I'm sure
the float isn't jamming mechanically because it moved freely while dry.
Any ideas?
Walt Tampa, FL
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