[DML] Digest Number 872
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[DML] Digest Number 872



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There are 6 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

      1. Re: 20 year old appology!!!
           From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      2. Re: Re: TA bolt incedence!
           From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
      3. Re: RE: trailing arm bolt incident
           From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
      4. RE: Best built DeLoreans
           From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
      5. Re: Novice Maintenance Questions
           From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      6. Re: Novice Maintenance Questions
           From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade@xxxxxxxxxxx>


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Message: 1
   Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 11:37:57 -0000
   From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 20 year old appology!!!

The price has not been finalised yet, however it is going to be around
£200 - £250 for both seats. I have spoken to them to see if they would be
interested in doing more. Bottom line is they want to see how mine turn
out
before making the decision, However from mine they will then have a New
complete set of patterns...

When done I will post some before and after pictures for you all to see
and
comment on.

Watch this space

Cheers
Paul
#6463

----- Original Message -----
From: "JDL" <jdl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2002 12:29 AM
Subject: RE: [DML] 20 year old appology!!!


> If you don't mind my asking, what did it cost, including shipping, to
get
> one or the set of seats recovered?  They sound like they do excellent
work
> and if the price is not too outrageous, perhaps worth getting done!
>
> David
> #6377
> Cleveland
> jdl@xxxxxxxxxxx
>





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Message: 2
   Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 23:09:06 -0500
   From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: TA bolt incedence!

> When torquing the TA bolts to 55 ft/lbs (with the weight of the car on
the
> suspension) I am assuming that you hold the nut stationary. When double
> nutting the TA bolt, what do you torque the second nut to?

The way I did mine was I held the bolt still and torqued the nut.  Doing
it
the other way by holding the nut still and torquing the bolt would give an
inaccurate reading because in addition to the tightening torque, you are
also measuring the friction forces of the bolt turning inside of the
washers, sleeve, spacers, etc.  I have an automatic transmission which
makes
space in there even more cramped.  To measure torque, I used a crowfoot
socket on my torque wrench which throws in another variable, but there was
no room to get a real socket in there.

According to DMC Joe, torque the first nut on the TAB to 60 ft-lbs.  Then
tighten the lock nut to 55 ft-lbs.  I think I remember hearing him say
that
going much tighter than 60 will begin to crush the sleeve in the rubber
bushing.

I didn't bother double nutting the front (of the pair of bolts) that hold
the bushings to the frame.  Again, there was no room to work.  The OEM
configuration didn't have them there either (on the automatic).

I hate to think that anyone would trust an alignment shop to do this work.
I had Sears check my alignment.  They told me to remove one shim on one
side
to make it perfect.  Now I'm reluctant to do this because I don't want to
fatigue the bolt by retorquing it a second time.  Since Sears seemed
competent with the DeLorean, I trusted them with my truck and they ROYALLY
screwed it up  (long off topic story).  I will NEVER trust a shop again.
Period.  If anyone can suggest an alignment procedure for toe-in that can
be
done at home, I'd like to know it.  I've used string and measuring tapes
with reasonable accuracy.  Reg Pearce who makes the SS frames told me he
aligned his with straight 2x4's as a guide.  He had Sears check it
afterwards and it was just right.

Walt    Tampa, FL




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Message: 3
   Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 21:23:24 -0800
   From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: RE: trailing arm bolt incident

did anyone look at pearce design products? he offers a new trailing arm
and support
bracket that would eliminate these "toby bolt" problems. check it out.
http://www.pearce-design.com/PFImprovements.html

mark



Darryl Tinnerstet wrote:

> Adam, maybe you missed my earlier post in November concerning the
> once-available trailing arm support bracket.  Since its an important
topic
> that comes up occasionally, with the moderator's consent I'd like to
repeat
> it:



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Message: 4
   Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 15:13:53 +0100
   From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Best built DeLoreans

Now that VIN number is interesting!
Are you sure that 9506 is your correct VIN number??? If so, I'd love to
see a photo of it.
According to the factory documents, last 81 car was 7199 and first 82 was
10001

Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway

VIN # 6759
(november 81)

Message: 14
   Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 13:58:45 EST
   From: dmcimf@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Best Built DeLoreans

My November 1981 D is WONDERFULL.
Bill
vin# 9506
DMCIMF@AOL





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
   Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 04:52:49 -0000
   From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Novice Maintenance Questions

Since you appear to be new to Deloreans I would recomend you read the 
owner's manual. I also suggest you have the brake and clutch fluid 
flushed and refilled with Castrol GTLMA DOT 4. Also flush and replace 
the anti-freeze. Keep the tires inflated as per the label in the glove 
box. Consider installing a Fanzilla and unless you have a Lockzilla 
disconnect the lock module. Have the car checked for the installation 
of the recalls and relay upgrades. If you don't have the Workshop 
Manual and Parts Manual get them. You may not understand them but they 
will be very helpful to whoever you take your car to for service. Find 
the nearest group of "D" owners and they will help you also. Depending 
on mileage and age you may be due for a complete tune-up, not just an 
air filter.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Doug Hornsby <govenorofvirginia@xxxx> wrote:
> I drive it, I don't repair it, so here are some dumb
> questions
> 1 - what kind of oil should I use?
> 2 - Where can I get the right kind of filter?
> 3 - Can Jiffy Lube handle an oil change? (I really do
> not have the facility to change oil)
> 4 - Is the oil place on the driver's side, at the top
> of a valve cover (remove a hose first) 
> 5 - Is there an air filter to change?
> 6 - The guide pully squeaks on the a/c until the car
> warms up, any suggestions?
> Thanks for your responses for a driver, non-mechanic.



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Message: 6
   Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 23:23:48 -0500
   From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Novice Maintenance Questions

[MODERATOR NOTE The downloadable parts manual is at
http://www.dmcnews.com/files.html
and the interactive hyperlinked parts manual is at
http://www.dmcnews.com/faq/n_soft.htm ]--dave

First I suggest you go to http://www.dmcnews.com and click on their link
to 
the technical section.  Lots to read so you can begin to get a feel (won't

answer all your questions) for your car.  Also, near the bottom of the 
technical section page there is a link to a page where you can download a 
PDF Parts Manual for reference.  There is also a list of significant 
contacts (vendors and support pages) for you to see there too.

In addition, I may be able to find a link to a parts database which is 
basically the parts manual with search capabilities.  I'm on the road so I

don't have that site right now; however, if you want this database, please

send me a note off list (edgarbade@xxxxxxxxxxx).  It reall helps me plan.

Next, call one of the vendors and buy the parts and shop manual.  Its nice

to have it on the computer but that does you no good unless you plan on 
taking your CRT into the garage under your car.

Good luck,

Ed
10541


>From: Doug Hornsby <govenorofvirginia@xxxxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: DMC Newsgroup <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: [DML] Novice Maintenance Questions
>Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 10:54:30 -0800 (PST)
>
>I drive it, I don't repair it, so here are some dumb
>questions
>1 - what kind of oil should I use?
>2 - Where can I get the right kind of filter?
>3 - Can Jiffy Lube handle an oil change? (I really do
>not have the facility to change oil)
>4 - Is the oil place on the driver's side, at the top
>of a valve cover (remove a hose first)
>5 - Is there an air filter to change?
>6 - The guide pully squeaks on the a/c until the car
>warms up, any suggestions?
>Thanks for your responses for a driver, non-mechanic.



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