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There are 15 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re:Need used manual LH transmission bracket, please!
From: "dmcman82" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Early vs Late
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Dry Cell Battery
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Re: Insurance...
From: aabclafon@xxxxxxx
5. Re: Hand-Brake
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Re: Factory Clock questions
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
7. Parts question
From: "Phillips Jeff 2dLt AFCA/GCF" <jeff.phillips@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Urethane Suspension Bushings
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Service in Charlotte
From: "esikav" <esikav@xxxxxxxxx>
10. TA bolt incedence!
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Dry Cell Battery
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. RE: Parts question
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
13. italdesign accesories
From: "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxxxxx>
14. Re: Re: Factory Clock questions
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomciodmc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Factory Clock questions
From: "dmcnorway" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 14:56:29 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re:Need used manual LH transmission bracket, please!
Shiraz,
I had a problem with my tranny bracket breaking too. After calling
Rob and talking to him about it it turns out that the rubber tranny
mounts were bad and causing a lot of extra stress on the metal
brackets. The rubber mounts may not look bad when you look at them
but if you push that metal tab that comes out from the rubber mount
from side to side and you see that the rubber is seperated from that
metal tab then that's what's causing your mount to break
everytime.....not the welders fault ;).
Steve
> : "shirazcupala" Subject: Need used manual LH transmission
bracket, please!
>
> This weekend while fixing a rear CV boot I found a nasty problem.
> My LH (driver's side) manual transmission bracket is in 3 pieces.
> It's been welded at least a half-dozen times and is now unusable.
[moderator snip]
>
> Thank you!
> Shiraz
>
> ======
>
> DeLorean #2860
> Seattle, WA
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 07:52:45 +0000
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Early vs Late
[Moderator Note: I expect a huge number of replies to this post, since there are literally hundreds of messages in the backissues giving very logical arguments against Les' assumption that "Very late 81's and early 82's would therefore likely be best" and a buyer can judge "other things being equal" well enough to make a $18,000-$50,000 decision. Please try to keep them polite. - Mike Substelny, moderator of the week]
I'm not sure how logic can be pushed aside in favor of emotion but
obviously it is. The early '81s had many problems, they were corrected
as quickly as the factory could work out fixes. Door latches, gas
flaps, hood lines, alternators, fuel pumps, and on and on. All the
recalls and upgrades, why would anyone want to jump into that, given a
choice?
Read "Stainless Steel Illusion." We know they went crazy from the
start, made a lot of mistakes and made changes on a near day to day
basis. Then at the end they were throwing together whatever they could
to use up parts and sell cars.
Very late 81's and early 82's would therefore likely be best, other
things being equal.
There were many, many, changes that we don't know about, no complete
documentation of any sort, suspicions only.
Here are some troublesome thoughts of mine. TA bolts: both Toby who
came up with the bolts and Darryl who will be selling the bolts have
early VINs, in the 2000 to 3000 range. Each had the only stories of
near failure of the TA bolts when that thread was running...I wonder if
there was a change later.
Craig display failure: I've repaired eight units, none had the clock in
the display. Could they have changed the flex material when they got to
the clock in the display version?
Lastly, it's very much a buyers market. Many units with thousands of
dollars in upgrades and repairs for sale for the same price (or less)
than others that are pure fixer-uppers...why would anyone choose the
fixer-upper?
Where's the logic?
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 13:22:20 -0500
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Dry Cell Battery
Just wondering on the groups thoughts on dry cell batteries as opposed
to the typical wet cell
I have been looking into these deep cycle dry cells and they seem nice .
long life ..
Good for those times when your doors are left up /. with lights on
BUT!!
What about storage .. obviously disconnect it .. but does anybody know
how well these things store?
I would imagine well .. since they are mainly used in marine vehicles
(boats)
Worth the extra money or better to stick with your run of the mill
battery?
Kenneth
00554
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 12:19:41 EST
From: aabclafon@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Insurance...
I am still insured full coverage with State Farm. My agent says no problem.
Thanks
Dave L.
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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 18:42:17 -0000
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Hand-Brake
Thanks for that.
I have been through everything it says and found a problem with the adjuster
nut and bolt. When I removed the cotter pin and tried to adjust the bolt it
just turned and nothing happened. The bolt will not screw in or out of the
nut.
I have now ordered the new parts from PJ Grady, DMC Houston did not have
them. Are they simple enough to replace??
Cheers Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 8:37 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Hand-Brake
> If the following information does not solve your parking brake problem
> contact me for more details.
> Parking Brake Adjustment:
>
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/store/store.nl?store=ACCT4947&mode=info§ion=5&category=18&id=9
>
> DMC Joe
> DeLorean Help dmchelp@xxxxxxx
> www.dmc.tv
> http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
[moderator snip]
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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 11:00:45 -0800 (PST)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Factory Clock questions
--- Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> According to my Parts Manual the Clock was featured
> UP TO VIN 6158.
- - - - - - - - - - - -
My first DeLorean was VIN 6350 (a so-called "late
81"). I bought it new and it had the console clock.
Dick Ryan
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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 13:42:14 -0600
From: "Phillips Jeff 2dLt AFCA/GCF" <jeff.phillips@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Parts question
Does anyone have a spare fueltank closing panel? Ie the triangular
piece of metal that bolts on to the frame underneath the fuel tank? the
previous owner simply made two 4in steel 1/4" bars to hold the tank up
but I refuse to drive the car with its soft underbelly exposed to all
sorts of road hazards. Please email me privately
jeff.phillips@xxxxxxxxxxxx if you have one to sell, none of the online
vendors advertise this part.
Also two quick questions for the list. One is does anyone know of a
particular model power antenna that completely retracts out of sight
into the rear quarter, unlike my corvette antenna which remains several
inches above the surface.
Second, is it common for the dimmer rheostat to go to crap, and what
is a good replacement. My instrument panel has too settings impossibly
dim and off.
Thanks
Jeff #10544
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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 01:20:20 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Urethane Suspension Bushings
Hello List -
I just talked to the company that produces urethane suspension
components for OEM and aftermarket applications. Bad news ... they
are somewhat focused on their 'bottom line', and will require a
substantial order base before they would be able to proceed. They
have no existing parts that could be readily adapted to our
application. The required part quantities range from 1000 pieces for
the trailing arm bushing to 3000 pieces for the upper control arm
bushings. Also, we would have to absorb tooling charges for tool
development, which would amount to about $7500 or so for all parts.
Obviously, unless some of the major DeLorean vendors step forward with
an interest in this program, individual owners do not have the
resources and/or power to make this happen through this particular
company. I will approach another company with the same proposal as
soon as I get my samples back. If the various vendors are monitoring
the List, and would like to comment on this, please feel free to speak
up. At some point, the stock of OEM parts will be depleted. We will
need some options when that day arrives. Tally ho!
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 01:52:07 -0000
From: "esikav" <esikav@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Service in Charlotte
Does anyone know of a good service center in or near Charlotte for my
Delorean? Thanks.
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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 20:21:04 -0800
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: TA bolt incedence!
I have been having some clunking sounds from the rear, so i too my car to my
favorite shop and had them lift it up to investigate. My left rear
TA bolt had become loose. It just simply needed the nut to be tightened, but
I am glad I caught it before worse happened.
Check those bolts everyone!
Also, I have an old brochure from Delorean Improvements that details their
method of reinforcing the other end of the trailing arm bolt with a metal
bracket that bolts to the frame. It also had a special clamp, and a larger
nut with this set up. My question is, "does anyone have this modification on
their car? Anyone have any different modifications to better support the TA
bolts?
I want some of Toby's bolts. Maybe I'll use this extra support bracket in
conjuntion with Toby's bolts.
Adam 16683
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Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 09:40:48 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Dry Cell Battery
Hi Kenneth
I was interested in your question because I had never heard of
"deep-cycle dry cell" batteries, so I went looking... I have some
experience of applications requiring extreme battery dischage.
It seems that the technology of these "dry cells" are what I know of as
"gel-cells" which are still Sealed-Lead-Acid (SLA) batts, but are
designed to be invertible and not to leak if punctured, they are also
completely sealed, with special valving to allow gaseous exhange.
They also have extremely high short-circuit current ratings (also known
as cold-crank) - much higher than the DeLorean starter will ever draw,
and the ability to provide high currents for long periods while
maintaining an acceptable level of efficiency. On all these points,
you're better off buying the biggest off-the-shelf standard SLA and
paying a third of the price - just make sure it has a decent cold-crank
rating.
For further reading, may I suggest you look at www.hepi.com - Hawker
Energy make the world's best gel-cells, but even they only have an
efficiency of 45% at maximum continuous discharge. I looked at using a
Red-Top 50 in my DeLorean but the cost wasn't justifiable when the OEM
AC-Delco batts are available over here for about £45
There are now true dry-cell batteries capable of more than replacing
SLA's but they cost a fortune, and are only in pilot production. (Our
robot runs on a set - we are sponsored by the manufacturer)
Martin
#1458
Digital Devices wrote:
>Worth the extra money or better to stick with your run of the mill
>battery?
>
>Kenneth
>00554
>
>
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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 06:31:19 -0500
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: RE: Parts question
> Second, is it common for the dimmer rheostat to go to crap, and what
>is a good replacement. My instrument panel has too settings impossibly
>dim and off.
Jeff,
The dimmer switch is from a Jaguar. I believe John Hurvey has them on his web site. They are very easy to rebuild. What happened to mine was that the PC board that is pressed on to the rotating shaft had been twisted loose and just spun on the shaft. The board has tabs on it to limit it's ability to rotate a full 360 degrees within the housing and if it gets forced it loosens easily. Disassemble, note the manner in which the wiper is installed and epoxy the pc board back on to the shaft. Clean all your traces and contacts. If the tabs on the housing are shot and you can't crimp them down to re-assemble it can easilty be held together with safety wire or epoxied shut.
Jim 6147
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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 23:31:08 -0500
From: "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxxxxx>
Subject: italdesign accesories
Does anyone know where I can get Giugiaro and or Italdesign keychains or badges or anything? For instance I have seen these badges on othe italdesign cars(even a delorean once) I'd really like to get one or a keychain or something.
Casey at putsch.1@xxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 16:56:23 +0100
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomciodmc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Factory Clock questions
Hi
You should update your parts manual. My car is VIN 06298 and the clock is
there.
I don't like either but that is a different subject ;)
Take care
Tom Niemczewski
tomciodmc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
VIN 06298 (FOR SALE)
----- Original Message -----
> [snip]
> > The Parts Manual should have the vin changeover.
>
> According to my Parts Manual the Clock was featured UP TO VIN 6158.
>
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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 11:25:34 -0000
From: "dmcnorway" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Factory Clock questions
And I have VIN 6759, it also had the clock, but this was replaced by
me since I have a Sony CD-player which shows the correct time. So I
ordered a new gearshifterpanel (w/o the hole for the clock), so now
mine is "correct" as per the Parts Manual definition.
My best guess is that yes, the clock was destined to disappear at VIN
6158 (because of a new Craig model showing the clock - no need for
two digital clocks) However - if you had a parts bin full of clocks
and gearshifterpanels, it is reasonable to think that they used up
some of these just to keep costs down. At least thats what I think :)
Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway
VIN # 6759
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxx> wrote:
> --- Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxx> wrote:
> > According to my Parts Manual the Clock was featured
> > UP TO VIN 6158.
> - - - - - - - - - - - -
> My first DeLorean was VIN 6350 (a so-called "late
> 81"). I bought it new and it had the console clock.
>
> Dick Ryan
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