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There are 23 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Seal Problems
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Seal Problems
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
3. Re: broken motor mount bracket
From: jus4sho@xxxxxxx
4. Maryland Delorean Sighting
From: jus4sho@xxxxxxx
5. which supercharger
From: "Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxxxxx>
6. Emissions Legality.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Seal Problems
From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Heat Stove Function / Performance
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
9. TYRE WEAR
From: Lance Haslewood <lanceh@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Heat Stove Function.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Seal Problems
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
12. MR. FUSION FOR SALE
From: Robert Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Heat Stove Function.
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Heat Stove Function.
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
15. Re: Where does it go 2nd attempt
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
16. Replacing th headlight...
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
17. Re: Replacing th headlight...
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Replacing th headlight...
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
19. Re: Emissions Legality.
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: Heat Stove Function.
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
21. Re: Replacing the headlight...
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: Re: Where does it go 2nd attempt
From: Paul Salsbury <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Need advice on adjusting headlights...
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 09:09:51 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Seal Problems
Joe
The heater box is connected to the cowl by a large opening. Leaves and other materials
can get in there buy this openning. I fashioned a screen over the cowl opening to stop
leaves and other debrie (mice?) from entering the car through here.
The other problem may be that the outside fresh air damper is always open on your car.
You may need to check out its proper operation.
BOB
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 17:29:59 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Seal Problems
Off hand, I would check 2 places. One of these being the inner
door seal. Make sure that on the bottom of the seal, the rubber is
correctly in place, and is properly seated.
On the passenger side, check the seal on the front where the
A/C hoses enter in to go to the condenser. There could be a
considerable gap there allowing all sorts of leaves and debries
in. It is posible that dust could be entering in via the fresh air duct
below the windshield. But if there is a large enough gap where
the hoses come in, I imagine that entering dust could also shoot
up into the recyled air intake inside as well.
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Palatinus, Joe" <jopalatinus@xxxx> wrote:
<SNIP>
> passenger complains of a draft in the foot well, and when
driving, I can
> feel it, but I see no visible gaping holes! It seems that if leaves
are
> getting in (let alone water) than I probably have something that
needs to be
> sealed. Any ideas?
>
> Thanks
> Joe Palatinus
> VIN 17167 6808
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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 12:47:51 EST
From: jus4sho@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: broken motor mount bracket
Andy, I had a similar problem that my engine mount studs seized into the
aluminum crankcase flange. When I tried to loosen the nuts, they sheared
right off. Upon closer inspection, I noticed that one of the bolts had
corroded so badly, that it had swelled and cracked the aluminum the length of
the mount! I debated whether or not to try to drive it out and weld up the
crack, but decided the only way to repair it correctly was to replace the
entire crankcase. Fortunately I found someone on this list that had a used
one available for sale.
I know this doesn't offer an easy solution to your problem, but I just wanted
to you to know you're not the first one to experience this.
Steve Stankiewicz
VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
www.angelfire.com/md2/projectdelorean
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 12:54:51 EST
From: jus4sho@xxxxxxx
Subject: Maryland Delorean Sighting
Last Saturday night ( i think. definitely last weekend) I was in Columbia
Maryland, Snowden River Pkwy area headed to Target when what should appear in
the lane next to me, but a shiny D! I don't see very many D's on the road
around here and it is a bit of a "recharge" for me and my project considering
I've never had 2650 on the road and it will be at least a year before I do.
I looked for the D and it's owner when I came out of Target, but to no avail.
I don't know if you're on the list, but if you are, "She looked good!!"
Steve
VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
www.angelfire.com/md2/projectdelorean
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 13:30:28 +0100
From: "Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxxxxx>
Subject: which supercharger
I have been hearing all of you talk about retrofiting a blower/supercharger to a Delorean, perhaps from a junkyard. From what car or what exact supercharger are you speaking of???
Sincerely, Casey at putsch.1@xxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 18:29:51 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Emissions Legality.
I agree that removal of the heat stove, and air flap are detrimental
to emissions. After all, the purpose of them is to reduce hydro
carbons by way of rasing the interal combustion temp. So, since
it is part of the emissions control system, you should technicly
leave it in place. None of the Identification Labels on the car list
the Heat Stove, nor the Air Intake Flap. However, the Engine Info
label does state that the vehicle does conform to 1981 (or your
mfg year) emissions standards by the EPA. So, if the regulations
by the EPA do infact list this as a required item, then you are not
able to remove it.
BUT, things don't end here. Just because your vehicle is exempt
from emissions tesing, doen't mean that you've got a green light
to remove these items. It just simply means that there is no
clean air problems in your area, so testing is not nessisary. So if
some vehicles are not running up to a par emisssions wise,
that's fine. It does not mean that you are free to
override/modify/shut off/remove the emissions controls as you
see fit. It simply indicates that you have alot more leeway with the
efficiency of the emissions controls. This is why thins that modify
the exhaust system such as bypass valves are listed as for
off-road use only.
And lastly, if you are considering an Island Turbo Kit, you
probably can't run it legally where you live. You do of course need
to check with local regulations. You'll need to verify the differance
between is the vehicle simply exempt from emissions testing, or
is it exempt from federal EPA standards? I believe that someone
previously pointed out that once a vehicle hits 25, it is no longer
mandated by EPA standards. But this depends on your areas
local regulations (i.e. C.A.R.B.). So technicly, removal of a Heat
Stove is no differant than remove of a Catalytic Converter. It's
possible you might be able to install a modern more efficient
emissions equipment. Something that could benefit both
emissions, and performance. But you'll need to check with local
regulations on that. Here in Nevada, if you have a classic car, you
are restriced to originality, and milage. Rather than a smog test,
the resigstration must include a signed affadavit by a car
appraiser for correct milage, and orginality! So for me, that's
more of a hastle than a smog check!
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 13:41:06 -0500
From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Seal Problems
Joe,
The motor for your ventilation system is on the passenger side of the car right above where the feet of passenger are. Try taking a good look in that area with a flashlight. You'll have to be somewhat of a contortionist and lay upside down in the passenger seat with your legs haning out of the roof with the door open to be able to get a good look at it.
Ah... the fun parts of owning a DeLorean :)
---Dan
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 02:14:05 -0500
From: "Palatinus, Joe" <jopalatinus@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Seal Problems
I leave my car outside all he time, and since I have been at college for a
while, I forget how dirty I left the car, but sometime I would leave the car
and swaer that the interior was clean and come back in a week, and find
leaves inside the passenger foot well. On my way home from school I turned
on the fans only to get blasted in the face by leaves and pieces of grass,
which I am sure are still clogging up m climate control system.. My
passenger complains of a draft in the foot well, and when driving, I can
feel it, but I see no visible gaping holes! It seems that if leaves are
getting in (let alone water) than I probably have something that needs to be
sealed. Any ideas?
Thanks
Joe Palatinus
VIN 17167 6808
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 15:31:46 EST
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Heat Stove Function / Performance
One of the biggest things I see on Deloreans, and I see this over and over
again, is an incorrectly adjusted throttle cable and/or linkage. On many
cars, when you push the gas peddle all the way to the floor, the throttle
plates are only going maybe 70 to 80 % of the way open. Adjusting the cable
or linkage so the plates go 100 % open is like gaining free HP.
Normally tuning a car, weather it be adjusting the throttle linkage or
changing the spark plugs and wires or installing a new air filter or other
things like this, does not increase HP, it just restores the HP the engine
was always capable of producing.
Of course, if you're used to driving a car that is in a bad state of tune,
then making these changes by tuning the car up will definitely give you
increased performance.
Marty
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 07:52:25 +1100
From: Lance Haslewood <lanceh@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: TYRE WEAR
Gary, Thank you for your input. Yes I am referring to the rear
tyres. Do you know if the reworked lower control arms are
adjustable? In the mean time, I'll fax onto Don Steger on the matter. I
don't think he has email.
Lance Haslewood
Message: 20
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 02:13:41 -0000
From: "carnut4849" <gmfm1@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: TYRE WEAR SAGA
Dear Lance,
I am assuming that you are talking about the rear tires. You are
correct about fixed camber, however some vendors sell reworked lower
control arms that allow for camber adjustment. I believe that
Delorean Motor Center in California has these available. I put a pair
of their early design lower control arms on my D years ago and never
had any problems with them and it did allow for adjustment. I believe
that they have made a better version since then. Good Luck.
Happy Holidays,
Gary Masie
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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 21:38:26 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Heat Stove Function.
[MODERATOR NOTE - Regarding emissions legality - this is EXTREMELY variable from locality to locality, sometimes even on a county level. It's impossible to genarlize what is good/bad with respect to emissions law because of this.]
I won't bother with the legal aspects of removing the Air Intake Flap
since I've already submitted another post specificly about the legal
issues. But, I can tell you that I've never failed an inspection
because of it. Mainly the only thing they look for durring emissions
testing are an Air Pump, Catalytic Converter, and Gas Cap. If it
isn't immediately on the identification Labels, then they don't check
for it.
I do like to think of myself as someone who is respectful of the
environment. I don't litter, I recycle my oil, etc. But the extra
hydrocarbons that are emitted as a result of this devices removal are
ONLY durring the inital warmup of the engine. And at that, this
shouldn't be too much of a problem, if any, durring the summer
months. If this is somthing that you are concerned with, then I would
suggest replacing this part for the winter months. And I know that
two wrongs don't make a right. But the amount of extra hydrocarbons
that spat out by the removal of the Air Intake Flap are nothing
compared to whats spewed out by any of the available turbo kits, due
to the lack of cats.
Before anyone takes a defensive stance, please realize that I'm not
knocking the turbo kits, just saying that removal of the intake
components isn't quite as bad as the image may be. When you install a
turbo kit, you will fail a smog check not just because the Cat is
gone, but because the pollution level from the engine is higher.
As far as performance goes, removal of the Flap does indeed help. It
isn't going to let you win drag races, but it does help. Along with
this flap, there is the replacement of the other ignition components.
The only thing original on my system is the Impluse Coil, and the
Ballast Resistors. Even the ECU is new. While my car still needs new
resistors, an Oxygen sensor, and a air/fuel mix tune-up, the engine
runs MUCH better than it did before. I would reccomend that if you
are restoring a DeLorean, that along with cosmetic items to bring it
back, you may also want to consider setting some money aside to
upgrade the ignition components. What I've paid out so far for
everything for the ignition system is at a fraction of the cost I
would have to pay for a turbo kit, or an engine conversion. Rather
than replacement, consider upgrading the existing engine. What you
see as an engine improvement by replacing worn out, 20 year old parts
might just be bringing the car back to factory standards, if not
slightly exceeding them. That could be the main problem behind what
people consider "slow" cars. You'd be surprised just how much power
you get get out of the PRV just by replacements rather than mods...
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 22:00:36 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Seal Problems
Check all of the openings in the foward bulkhead (firewall). My guess
is that some of the openings aren't sealed properly causing the
leaves, grass, and cold air to come in. If there are large openings it
is very possible when landscapers use leaf blowers to blow leaves and
grass and they blow under the car they are forcing the leaves and
grass into it. Seals age or maybe they were never correctly installed
and are no longer sealing the openings. This would also explain the
car being "dusty" inside. You could try parking the car further from
where they cut the grass and blow leaves like in the middle of the
lot? Inspect under the car paying attention to the radiator area for
leaves blocking the radiater and cooling fans.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Palatinus, Joe" <jopalatinus@xxxx> wrote:
> I leave my car outside all he time, and since I have been at college
for a
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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 03 Oct 2092 05:26:06 -0500
From: Robert Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: MR. FUSION FOR SALE
FOR YOU BACK TO THE FUTURE FANS, THERE IS A MR. FUSION
FOR SALE ON E BAY.
IT IS THE CORRECT PART.
BOB
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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 14:53:09 -0800 (PST)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Heat Stove Function.
While I usually agree with things that Robert posts, I
must take some exception to the turbo comments.
First, the Turbo Manifold Twin Turbo kit DOES come
with twin cats! Second, on my first D, I passed CA
emissions with the turbos even though I did not have
cats on that set-up. Quite frankly, that was long ago
(1987) and I realize the examiners have gotten a bit
more sophisticated since then.
Dick Ryan
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of
your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com
or bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 18:04:45 EST
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Heat Stove Function.
In a message dated 12/17/01 4:23:54 PM Central Standard Time,
DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx writes:
> And I know that two wrongs don't make a right. But the amount of extra
> hydrocarbons that spat out by the removal of the Air Intake Flap are
> nothing
> compared to what's spewed out by any of the available turbo kits, due
> to the lack of cats.
>
> Before anyone takes a defensive stance, please realize that I'm not
> knocking the turbo kits, just saying that removal of the intake
> components isn't quite as bad as the image may be. When you install a
> turbo kit, you will fail a smog check not just because the Cat is
> gone, but because the pollution level from the engine is higher.
>
>
Robert,
That's not always the case, nor does it have to be. I run a single turbo
setup on my car. It also runs a "Cat" and all the other emissions equipment
required for our cars. I live in an area that requires our cars to be tested
every other year at a state inspection station, and the testing they perform
is the "dyno/roller" style test where the car is actually driven thru a city
and highway type loop, not just a tailpipe test.
The last time my car was tested was this past summer and it passed the
emissions test with flying colors. Matter of fact it even did what is called
a "quick pass", which means it was running so clean they don't even do the
entire test cycle because the car was running below a certain emissions
standard for the first part of the test.
This turbo car also happens to be the same car that has been involved in
the "Dyno Testing" that the Chicago club and Bob Brandy's is referring to in
the previous postings.
So you can have your cake and eat it too, it just takes a little time and
effort to get it right.
Marty
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 19:21:09 EST
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Where does it go 2nd attempt
In a message dated 12/16/01 6:48:17 PM Eastern Standard Time,
paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> I have up loaded a file into the DML files which shows the problem pipe
> outlined in green. Would somebody be kind enough to copy and send me this
>
Okay, I know this is lame, but I've looked in both the DMCNews and egroups
files and I don't see it. :( Is it any wonder I've been saying we need a
better system?
How about a link... or at least a hint???
Wayne 11174
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 22:03:31 EST
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
Subject: Replacing th headlight...
Well, 14 months of DeLorean ownership and my first headlight has
gone out. Is this going to be a chore pulling it out and finding
a replacement bulb at a local store? I'm thinking the light
assembly comes out from the front after removing those two
screws, but someone help me before I destroy something if I am
wrong. :)
Thanks for any help...I hope it is simple,
Richard
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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 03:43:56 -0000
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Replacing th headlight...
The bulb is a very standard sealed-beam unit. Sorry I forget the
number but it's the same as any other mid-80's 4-headlight
rectangular-light car. If you need something to ask for at the parts
store look up a 82 Chevy Celebrity. There are actually 4 TINY screws
in the chrome trim ring. Two above the light and two below. The two
larger phillips screws (one on either side) are the adjusters, don't
mess with them. You may have to push the facia out of the way
slightly up and down to see the screws, but they are there. I believe
that they are phillips also but I could be wrong.
The chrome ring will come off, and the headlight "bucket" and
adjusters will stay in the car. Pull the light out a short ways and
unplug the wires.
Dave
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, RJRavalli@xxxx wrote:
> Well, 14 months of DeLorean ownership and my first headlight has
> gone out. Is this going to be a chore pulling it out and finding
> a replacement bulb at a local store? I'm thinking the light
> assembly comes out from the front after removing those two
> screws, but someone help me before I destroy something if I am
> wrong. :)
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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 23:57:43 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Replacing th headlight...
I have some tips to add to Dave's advice. Do this job in daylight or a well
lighted shop. Also do it on clean pavement because if you drop a screw (and
if you are like me you will drop several many times) then your chances of
finding it are much better. Your best bet is to put a towel under the front
bumper so that when one of those incredibly tiny screws drop then they won't
bounce away. I'm not a butter-fingers or anything. It is just a long reach
into the fascia to get to those screws.
Unless your fascia already has major eyebrows, then you will need to flex it
out of the way to get the screwdriver to fit between it and the edge of the
headlight. Be sure you use a screwdriver that has a smooth rounded shaft
and not one of those hex shaft ones because the later will scratch paint off
the fascia as you turn it.
Be careful with the black plastic spacers that fit between the headlights.
They are brittle, and I broke one (mainly from stupidity working in the
dark) taking it out.
PJ Grady sells a stainless steel screw kit which in my opinion is worth
getting.
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 05:40:50 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Emissions Legality.
In modifying anything related to emissions you are treading on thin
ice! Not only must you pass whatever local inspections you may be
responsible for you must also consider someday you may sell your car
and it may go to another state. Just imagine what happens when the car
won't be able to be registered by the new owner because of something
you did. Now he may have legal recourse to force the sale to be
reversed or maybe sue you for whatever it may cost to undo what you
have done. My advice is to do any mods so that they are reversible and
if you do sell the car with them in place to make sure that you have
informed the prospective buyer so that he is fully aware of all of the
implications. In some states not only do you have to pass a tailpipe
test but they also conduct a visual inspection to verify no tampering.
You never know where the car will wind up. In some states not only do
you have to go for inspections but they also have "rolling
inspections". They can pull you over for a random inspection. This
happens all the time for trucks and is not common for cars but in the
future things may get tougher and if you modified your car you may be
taking a risk. The small gains you may achieve are not worth the risk
IMHO. Many times a correctly operating car properly set up will run
better than a poorly maintained car with an inoperative emmision
system. It will warm up faster, use less gas, and in the long run be
cheaper. If you have trouble with the car and the emission systems are
disabled the first thing a mechanic would do is not try to fix the car
but to try to get the emission systems going again to rule out their
causing the problems. The Delorean has a very good engine system with
emisions better than most current model cars. Anything modifacations
you do will just make it worse, not better. The car was certified by
the EPA with ALL of the systems in place and in working order.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxx> wrote:
> I agree that removal of the heat stove, and air flap are detrimental
> to emissions. After all, the purpose of them is to reduce hydro
> carbons by way of rasing the interal combustion temp. So, since
> it is part of the emissions control system, you should technicly
> leave it in place. None of the Identification Labels on the car list
> the Heat Stove, nor the Air Intake Flap. However, the Engine Info
> label does state that the vehicle does conform to 1981 (or your
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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 02:27:19 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Heat Stove Function.
Dave, Yes I'm talking about the Hot/cold air valve D:07:01. Due to the
location and without close examination and for the sake of a longer
conversation and a lot of people know or have heard of a mass air flow meter.
That's why I called it that. Your also correct in certain parts of the
country and in certain weather conditions
( Freezing ) the air flow valve is necessary to keep the water in the fuel
system from freezing. But, as I understand it, most of the cars in sub
freezing weather are in storage due to not wanting to get the car in a
potential accident and salt on the roads. In our southern part of the
country, we may have a little potential freezing weather but it's not bad.
Remembering that I have said I worked on Corvettes a lot with carburated
systems, I'm used to power tuning a system. So if I have maximum fire, good
hot grade of gasoline, maximum air flow using standard parts and with only
minor changes and without a dyno test, I can feel the difference from
beginning to now. Yes, it's not all that measurable by a dyno test, But have
you ever got in a car and drove it and you feel you have to push hard on the
gas to make it go. With what I have done, I now have the sensation the car is
pulling me instead of me saying: gitty up go. I guess it's the old mechanic
coming out in me. I have said in the past, the car will tell you a lot by the
feel and the sounds. You just have to know how to read it.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 09:29:34 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Replacing the headlight...
daveswingle2 wrote:
> There are actually 4 TINY screws
> in the chrome trim ring. Two above the light and two below.
No there aren't (at least not on mine...) - there are two above and one either side at
different heights. Mine were self-tappers which I replaced - are they supposed to be?
Also FYI the replacements we-who-drive-on-the-left use for the main outer lights are not
sealed beam, but have interchangable bulbs.
> I believe
> that they are phillips also but I could be wrong.
Mine were, and are likely to have been the originals.
Martin
#1458
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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 11:20:18 +0000 (GMT)
From: Paul Salsbury <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Where does it go 2nd attempt
For those of you only just picking up my post, I must
appologise, I have had a good answer which has helped
me solve the mystery.
Therefore to save space on the DML files I have
deleted it.
Thanks for the help
Paul
#6463
--- deloreanernst@xxxxxxx wrote: > In a message dated
12/16/01 6:48:17 PM Eastern
> Standard Time,
> paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
>
>
> > I have up loaded a file into the DML files which
> shows the problem pipe
> > outlined in green. Would somebody be kind enough
> to copy and send me this
> >
>
> Okay, I know this is lame, but I've looked in both
> the DMCNews and egroups
> files and I don't see it. :( Is it any wonder I've
> been saying we need a
> better system?
> How about a link... or at least a hint???
> Wayne 11174
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 08:05:05 -0800
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Need advice on adjusting headlights...
My headlights point to far downward and I really need to adjust them. Can
they be adjusted just by turning the two adjustment screws, or does this
procedure require removal of the chrome bracket, lights etc.?
Thanks, Adam
>From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Re: [DML] Replacing th headlight...
>Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 23:57:43 -0500
>
>I have some tips to add to Dave's advice. Do this job in daylight or a
>well
>lighted shop.
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