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There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. The 10 Dollar Window Felt Fix
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. 3rd Brake Light/Led Lights
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
3. Window Switch
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
4. Erratic Rev counter readout
From: "John" <john_geuley@xxxxxx>
5. Re: Erratic Rev counter readout
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
6. Re: 3rd Brake Light/Led Lights
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: 3rd Brake Light/Led Lights
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
8. Re: 3rd Brake Light/Led Lights
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
9. Re: 3rd Brake Light/Led Lights
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
10. Re: 3rd Brake Light/Led Lights
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: 3rd Brake Light/Led Lights
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: 3rd Brake Light/Led Lights
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
13. 2001 Euro Auto Festival
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. RE: 3rd Brake Light/Led Lights
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf@xxxxxxxxx>
15. RE: 3rd Brake Light/Led Lights
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
16. engine compartment light
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
17. The DOA
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. My Dent
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
19. Re: 3rd Brake Light/Led Lights
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
20. Re: engine compartment light
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: 3rd Brake Light/Led Lights
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
22. [ETDOC] November 3-4th meet in the Smokies
From: Aaron Posey <cadysrme@xxxxxxxxx>
23. Re: State Farm & collecting insurance
From: nick <nicky4xx@xxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: engine compartment light
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
25. Re: engine compartment light
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
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Message: 1
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 17:10:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: The 10 Dollar Window Felt Fix
[Moderator/Webmaster Note - this is now posted with photos at http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/windowfelt.html]
I've owned my DeLorean for a little over a year now and I've used it as a
daily driver since the first day of ownership. I've done (and had done) a
lot of work to it, but there was always one thing that I could never seem
to fix for more than a week - the window felt. I've replaced the felt 4
times this past year, and now I finally have a solution that works.
I wanted to do away with the OEM solution of a rubber strip with felt
glued to it. I've discussed other glues with list members, but I really
wanted to update the car with the rubber/felt backed trim that is found on
modern cars.
Stuff needed for fix:
Pair of window trim from '89 Ford Probe or similar
14 6/32" x 3/8"(length) low-profile head screws
14 6/32" nuts
14 1/4" washers
These directions are extremely detailed. I'm somewhat of a beginner with
DeLoreans, so I always appreciate having more information than necessary.
I apologize if I go on and on about the smallest little detail. :)
Take the upper door panels off and remove the screws holding the bracket
with the window felt (or rubber strip if that's all you have left).
Mark where the ends of the rubber strip are on the bracket. Remove the OEM
strip and cut the Ford trim to fit. I cut mine just a little bit longer
(inch or two) just to be safe. The ford trim should now have 7 holes.
Position the trim where it should go on the bracket and run the screw
through the trim with the head toward where the window will run. On the
inside of the bracket, put a washer on and then the nut. What's cool about
the Ford trim is that there are 2 strips of trim that touch the window
with the holes in between. Since the screws are in between the 2 strips,
the window won't touch the screws.
Go along the trim until all 7 screws are in. Tighten with a phillips screw
driver and a socket. Then install the trim back into the door and put the
upper door panel back on.
The trim is held on to the bracket by squeezing the bracket between the
trim (which is metal coated in rubber) and the washer. After it's all
tightened, the trim won't budge.
The trim from the Ford cost me 3 dollars and the hardware cost a little
under 7 dollars. The time involved (after all parts are collected) is just
about half an hour - with 80% of that time being time spent taking the
doors apart and putting them back together.
I've put pictures up on my site at:
http://www.framezero.com/trim/index.html
If Yahoo ever gets around to fixing my account, I'll be happy to upload
them to the files section of the DML. If anyone else would like to copy
the pictures and put them there, go for it.
I'm glad that I'm finally able to contribute something other than
questions and a witty personality to the DeLorean community. :) Thanks
to everyone for all the help over the past year.
-Christian
#3452
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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 21:25:08 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 3rd Brake Light/Led Lights
Has anyone mounted a LED 3rd brake light? Are they any good? Was going to
order one from JC Whitney catalog.
-----Original Message-----
From: mquinto@xxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:mquinto@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 1:06 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Led Lights
Hello List,
I use led's on my front blinkers, side markers and door lights.
There was a reason why I didn't do my taillights.
I did this mod over a year ago, and at that time I could only get a
hold of led's that were used as third brake lights. Those led's were
not bright enough. I would have had to use a heck of allot of led's
to equal an incandescent bulb. This meant modifying the rear lenses.
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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 09:08:57 +0100
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Window Switch
I would like to comment on the recently re-manufactured window switch
(#101177), supplied by DMC Houston. It does the job and looks the part! I
don't think anyone would be able to tell the difference from the original.
Priced at $ 49.95 or $ 89 .95 a pair, I think this is pretty good value.
I recently bought a window switch for my Jaguar XJS and this cost about $35.
When you consider that there were over 100,000 XJS's built, over a 20 year
period, compared to our 8,600 over 2/3 years, we don't do too badly for
spares!
I think we DeLorean people should be grateful that we a good mix of vendors
who are prepared to invest time, trouble and money, improving, and keeping
different aspects of the our cars reliable and on the road.
Chris P DOC UK
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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 14:22:30 -0000
From: "John" <john_geuley@xxxxxx>
Subject: Erratic Rev counter readout
Hi,
I have recently noticed that my rev counter is acting
erratically..
Whilst in tickover it goes from 1 thousand up to 3.5 and back down
etc etc...
Has anyone had this same issue ?
(I have a spare rev counter, but am not sure if the problem
is likely to be a sender unit ?? not sure what/where this is)
Cheers
John G.
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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 16:54:04 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Erratic Rev counter readout
The first thing to do when you have erratic reading gauges is to check
and clean all connections. Pay particular attention to all ground
connections. There is a major grounding point on the frame alongside
the left front wheel. Remove the wheel, remove the wires and make sure
that the connections are all clean and that the paint on the frame or
rust isn't interfering with the connections and that it is tight. You
can also remove all of the fuses one at a time and clean the contact
points and tighten up the clips that they fit into. Check that the
proper size fuse is in the correct spot, don't take it for granted as
someone could have stuck the wrong size in or just switched them by
mistake. For the tach you also should check connections around the
motor for tightness and corrosion. On older cars very often the
trouble is in the connections, not the part, but the simple act of
changing things has the effect of "fixing" the problem because as you
plug and unplug connections it cleans them.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "John" <john_geuley@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I have recently noticed that my rev counter is acting
> erratically..
>
> Whilst in tickover it goes from 1 thousand up to 3.5 and back down
> etc etc...
>
> Has anyone had this same issue ?
>
> (I have a spare rev counter, but am not sure if the problem
> is likely to be a sender unit ?? not sure what/where this is)
>
> Cheers
>
> John G.
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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 13:38:55 -0400
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 3rd Brake Light/Led Lights
Yes, I just mounted the multiple LED type inside the rear window. All that
was necessary was to run a line to ground and another to the green with
purple tracer wire running to the right tail light which can be picked up in
the main connector junction box in the engine compartment. Just be sure that
the polarity of the LEDs are correct because they are a semi-conductor
device. If you use the LED type, the draw is minimal and will not require an
additional relay. If you use an incandescent type, you will probably have to
install the relay due to the additional current load.
Rustproof
Vin 1559
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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 12:34:12 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: 3rd Brake Light/Led Lights
In a message dated 10/15/01 9:53:18 AM Central Daylight Time,
delorean@xxxxxxxxx writes:
> Has anyone mounted a LED 3rd brake light? Are they any good? Was going to
>
The previous owner of my car installed an LED 3rd brake light. it is a
generic GM-brand light i believe. very narrow and short, it mounts on the
2nd from the top louver. when you sit in the car it is invisible because
that louver is directly in line with the line of vision obscured by the
interior ceiling. it looks VERY stock. the LED's are nice and bright.
viewable from side angles too. when you hit the brakes it dramatically
inproves visability and doesn't look aftermarket at all. if i were going to
do it all over again i would do it exactly the same way.
i have also heard of people using the angled 3rd brake light from 80's
corvettes, mounted on the top louver since it is nearly the same angle.
however that is a standard lightbulb and not LED.
i will upload a couple of pics to the photo section later today.
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 15:09:34 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 3rd Brake Light/Led Lights
At the SEDOC car show last month, I saw two DeLoreans equipped with 3rd
brake lights. Both cars were done with the same brand of light fixture.
One of the cars belonged to Bob Zilla, so I had him show me how he hooked it
up. He used two (what he called generic) LED fixtures that "could be found
at any auto parts store". I haven't been looking real hard, but I haven't
found any yet. He mounted one on either side of the center support under
the top louver using 3M double sided tape. When the lights are off, they
are well hidden. When on, they look factory original with the exception of
a missing segment between the fixtures where the louver center support is.
I was before considering using a 3rd brake light from an SUV such as what is
used on the Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Blazer, Jimmy, etc. But this would have
to be mounted on top of the louver and require a hole drilled through to run
the wire. I have seen photos of a couple of DeLoreans equipped this way.
The owner of one said that he thought it looked factory original. For lack
of anything better, I would say this is the way to go. But I like the Bob
Zilla method better.
If JC Whitney has a catalogue online that shows the light that you are
thinking of using, then send me a link to it.
Walt Tampa, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
> Has anyone mounted a LED 3rd brake light? Are they any good? Was going
to
> order one from JC Whitney catalog.
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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 19:42:34 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 3rd Brake Light/Led Lights
Andy, no intention on bashing your car, but the vision from the rear
view mirror should be able to see the gap between the top and 2nd
louvers. What I noticed on your car and I've noticed on many other
cars is that the interior headliner panel starts sagging (not the
fabric, but rather the fiberboard) and blocks this view. Mine is
doing this on the sides, and I'm going to reinforce it with a metal
strip before I recover it.
On many other DeLoreans what I have noticed is this same GM light
(from thier line of SUVs, check it out next time your behind a
Blazer) is that they mount it underneith the top louver, effectively
hiding it completely untill your actually braking, much more
streamlined in my opinion. You would either need to cut the louver
brace or cut the LED assembly in half to do this though. In either
case, it is a very effective light, and probably the best choice for
any 3rd-light installations.
Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> The previous owner of my car installed an LED 3rd brake light. it
is a
> generic GM-brand light i believe. very narrow and short, it mounts
on the
> 2nd from the top louver. when you sit in the car it is invisible
because
> that louver is directly in line with the line of vision obscured by
the
> interior ceiling.
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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 14:04:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 3rd Brake Light/Led Lights
--- Soma576@xxxxxxx wrote:
> i have also heard of people using the angled 3rd
> brake light from 80's
> corvettes, mounted on the top louver since it is
> nearly the same angle.
> however that is a standard lightbulb and not LED.
- - - - - - - - -
Actually, it has 4 halogen bulbs in it. Very bright
and quite long lasting and it, too, is very "stock"
looking.
Dick Ryan
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 22:23:02 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 3rd Brake Light/Led Lights
Actually you need to wire them up to the correct polarity because they are _diodes_.....
Martin "Mr Pedantic" :-)
#1458
Rustproof wrote:
> Just be sure that
> the polarity of the LEDs are correct because they are a semi-conductor
> device.
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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 21:25:05 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: 3rd Brake Light/Led Lights
I don't want to turn this into a "me-too" posting, but I do have
specifics on my 3rd brake light. The cross-over is from a late model
Trans-Am. The light mounts on the edge of the top louver. It stays
out of my rear vision, but isn't high enought that it exceedes the
roof height. It does however require that you drill two holes in the
louver for bolts to mount. But, the nice part is since it comes from
an F-body car with a glass hatch, it comes with a gasket on the
bottom. Looks stock no matter how up close you get.
Wiring is simple. Take the two wires, and run them behind the grill
that covers the bolts for the torsion bars. Then simply fish the
wires down the hollow upper support of the quarter panel. The opening
at the other end will be right above the tail lights. Splice the
wires in, and you're ready to go.
For the installation, I had the option of installing onto the 2nd
louver. But in my opinion, it doesn't look as good, and it defeats
some purpose of having a HIGH mounted stop light. An under louver
installation is fine, but I can't stand that gap in the center. I
also don't know how much of a blind spot (in terms of the CHMSL's
beam area) is created by this location. I've also seen 3rd brake
lights mounted inside the passenger compartment on the rear glass.
With the louvers in back, and with the height of the DeLorean, even
someone standing behind the car cannot see the light. So for trucks,
it really isn't able to serve it's purpose.
I'll scan a photo tonight to upload so you can see what it looks like.
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> Has anyone mounted a LED 3rd brake light? Are they any good? Was
going to
> order one from JC Whitney catalog.
<SNIP>
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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 17:25:30 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 2001 Euro Auto Festival
It's coming! October 19-21. http://www.euroautofestival.com
Anyone preregistered and planning to attend the banquet on Friday? I'll be
there (free food, are you kidding me!).
I'm hoping for a good showing for DeLoreans this year and not to embarass
myself (my car is a work in progress!).
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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 15:03:54 -0700
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: 3rd Brake Light/Led Lights
I know quite a few of the owners have installed a 30 LED, 16" long by 1"
high 3rd brake light from GM SUV's. I installed mine on the rear top of
the second louver from the top where it does not obscure vision from inside.
I did a No No and drilled two holes in the louver using the two bolts to
fasten mine. That way they are flush and good and solid....I painted the
nuts and bolts flat black first and you just cannot see them from the rear
without really looking for them. The wires are easily concealed completely
and run back within the right side Stainless Steel panel and on into the
right rear tail light assembly. Be careful of the polarity...at first mine
was dead until the light dawned that these were not your ordinary 12 volt
filament type bulbs! They look like factory and are really bright. Only
drawback is that the cost was about $80.
Murray
Vin: 05962
Lic: DMC-XII
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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 20:19:20 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: 3rd Brake Light/Led Lights
Not sure what one to get...wanted to mount a single one, but the idea of two
(one on each side of the center louver support is nice...but might be TOO
big/TOO Much)
Here is the JCWhitney catalog link for the ones I was looking at:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/product.jhtml?CATID=5238&BQ=jcw2
or
http://www.jcwhitney.com/productnoitem.jhtml?CATID=46330&BQ=jcw2
You also should get the OEM Logic circuit (an addition $4.99 part)
http://www.jcwhitney.com/SearchCatContainer.jhtml?_requestid=92726
What do you think? What should I get?
-----Original Message-----
From: Walter [mailto:Whalt@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2001 3:10 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] 3rd Brake Light/Led Lights
At the SEDOC car show last month, I saw two DeLoreans equipped with 3rd
brake lights. Both cars were done with the same brand of light fixture.
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 20:44:22 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: engine compartment light
Hey guys,
can anyone tell me how this goofy thing is supposed to work? when i bought
the car, the switch was smashed down so it wouldn't bounce back up. today i
took the switch off and let the two wires stay there. i checked the
electrical diagram and learned that the light fixture has two positive wires
connected to it. that's the power for the whole thing. well, the top tab
for the light fixture turned on my test light, but the bottom one didn't. so
i figured that the light bulb must be broken, but it looks ok! i then tested
the socket where the bulb fits into, and there's no power where the bulb
touches it, yet i have power all around the little disc it fits into. when i
put a jumper wire between the wires as the touch the socket, i then have
power to one of the wires at the switch.
is my socket broken? it looks ok - there isn't much to break in there! but
it's crazy - the tab has power but the disc that the bulb slips into doesnt,
and that breaks the connection. what gives??
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 17:54:38 +0000
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: The DOA
I joined last year, I thought it was the thing to do. The $60
membership that entitles one to a quarterly glossy magazine was a little
hard to take but what the heck, it was the thing to do.
Slowly the "them" vs "us" mentality became evident. I don't know the
why of it but it's certainly there. We're not one big happy group
working together for the greater good of all, far from it. I haven't
been on board long enough to know the details but it's certainly
obvious.
I won't be renewing my membership, why compound an error. I'm very
pleased that DMC Houston is putting out a quarterly putting their spin
on things. I'm signed up, I thought it was a major coup to have the
first tech article by Knut.
I must admit I'm a nuts and bolts type, pictures of gatherings don't do
a lot for me, particularly if all the doors are raised in the air. My
mind is always saying "close the damned doors." I think it's a great
looking car with the doors closed. Doors are to get in and out of or to
talk to someone curbside, not raised in the air upon any occasion like
some mindless robot. So I'm a heretic, I have an '82 and an '83, love
'em, keep 'em in good condition and drive them whenever I can
manufacture an excuse. I have kind of a wild mind (like Dick Ryan) so
can usually come up with something.
Best thing about the "World" is the ads (IMAO), best way to find out
what's new with Rob and Bob and the others. I'm sure they will be on
board with the Houston effort. DOA was the only action in town, now
there's an alternative
I'm not noted for my accurate predictions but if DOA had a stock issue
I'd be selling short!
Cheers!
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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 21:01:34 EDT
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: My Dent
As I promised
I recently discovered a dent in my DeLorean Front left fender.(thank James
for noticing it at Autofest LOL) The Dent was about 8"-9" long, creased in
about an inch wide and was around .060 deep. While this does not sound too
bad it is on a car I keep for concourse events so to me it was major.
(besides half the concourse judges were at Autofest inspecting it.)
Well to repair the dent I did the following steps
1. Remove the front fender
took out the top six screws in the trunk after removing the ruber strip
2. took out the three or four screws holding the fender to the front under
the facia.
I did not remove the facia. I have wide prybars that are very thin so I
was able to deflect the facia far enough to get the screws. (Don't try this
without the
special tools you WILL permantely damage the front facia)
3. Removed the three or so screws along the front inside of the panel
4. Removed the screws inside the door I believe there were 4 under the
weatherstrip.
5. Removed the remaining screw under the fenderwall behind the tire.
6. Carefully pried down the plastic rocker panel and removed the remaining
two screws.
(Don't do this unless you have spare plastic clips. You will break
them.
OK now the panel is off
Picture 1: in the pic file shows the dent (I sent the pics in to be listed
in the pic files the address will be posted later)
(The picture looks like the dent is only about 4" its amazing how much of the
dent was covered by the grain in the pic.)
Pic 2 and 3: show the dent after being pounded out from the back side. I
used a large 3" socket to push it out by hitting it with a hammer against a
solid backing block (steel). as you can see it came out most of the way.
Here you can get a better idea of how bad the dent was.
Sections were still low and required additional hammering.
When everything was fairly flat and out where it should be I used a file to
smoothe it out
that pic did not come out.
pic 5: once filed down I sanded the fender.
That was quick
Pic 4 and 6: show the fender repaired and ready to go
I can't tell it was ever hit and neither will the judges. It was regrained
and ready to go.
It took a bit longer to put it all back together.
I did it in the opposite steps as mentioned above.
DON"T try bodywork on your own unless you know what you are doing
One wrong hit and you have a non repairable fender. Regular hammers do not
work well. They leave rings that are usually worse than the dent.
This is just to show you that it can be fixed. There are a lot of our
suppliers who do this all the time and have tools to do it.
I have metal backing shoes and body hammers and a set of sockets that work
real well and have been doing this for years.
Its a lot cheaper than replacing the body panel.
Again the pics will be in the pic file room soon I sent them in to be listed.
I am going to try Richards Dent
Its much much worse like his facia was. For those of you at Cleveland he had
the DeLorean Tow Truck so if you remember that dent that is what I will try
next. I will take better photos. Its about 3/4 inch deep and covers about a
10" section.
He's been told its not repairable so we will see how good it comes out. He
needed a new fender anyway.
If you can't find the pics e-mail me and I will send them to you if
interested.
I have seen both Steve and Rob do this kind of work and I am sure the other
shops do as well. Its worth it especially if its an inusurance case.
Ken
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 21:12:23 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 3rd Brake Light/Led Lights
_diodes_ are semiconductors, silly you!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Martin Gutkowski" <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2001 5:23 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] 3rd Brake Light/Led Lights
> Actually you need to wire them up to the correct polarity because they are
_diodes_.....
>
> Martin "Mr Pedantic" :-)
> #1458
>
> Rustproof wrote:
>
> > Just be sure that
> > the polarity of the LEDs are correct because they are a semi-conductor
> > device.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 18:23:48 +0000
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: engine compartment light
Easy one, much like the tail lights, bad connection at the ground tab. Drill out the
center rivet holding the assembly in place, solder the lower (ground) tab to the part
it's "leaning" against. Put a screw through the mounting hole you drilled, to fasten the
assembly back in place. Positive goes to insulated tab at the top, you're just not
getting a proper ground through the lower tab, this'll fix it.
Soma576@xxxxxxx wrote:
> Hey guys,
>
> can anyone tell me how this goofy thing is supposed to work? when i bought
> the car, the switch was smashed down so it wouldn't bounce back up. today i
> took the switch off and let the two wires stay there. i checked the
> electrical diagram and learned that the light fixture has two positive wires
> connected to it. that's the power for the whole thing. well, the top tab
> for the light fixture turned on my test light, but the bottom one didn't. so
> i figured that the light bulb must be broken, but it looks ok! i then tested
> the socket where the bulb fits into, and there's no power where the bulb
> touches it, yet i have power all around the little disc it fits into. when i
> put a jumper wire between the wires as the touch the socket, i then have
> power to one of the wires at the switch.
>
> is my socket broken? it looks ok - there isn't much to break in there! but
> it's crazy - the tab has power but the disc that the bulb slips into doesnt,
> and that breaks the connection. what gives??
>
> Andy
>
> Soma576@xxxxxxx
> 1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
> Fargo, ND 58102
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 21:52:32 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 3rd Brake Light/Led Lights
I am positive that the JCWhitney item
http://www.jcwhitney.com/productnoitem.jhtml?CATID=46330&BQ=jcw2
is what Bob Zilla used.
I disagree about "You also should get the OEM Logic circuit (an addition
$4.99 part)". This part is unnecessary because the DeLorean has seperate
circuits for the brake and turn signals.
> What do you think? What should I get?
Get the one in the link I posted above. Bob Zilla is the guy to copy [sic].
I'm going to order a pair myself. Putting two of these fixtures on either
side of the center louver support gives approximately the same total witdh
of the 3rd brake light that you would see on a GM SUV.
I'm not too fond of seeing the gap where the louver support is, but with
double sided tape these can always be removed and upgraded with whatever
next year's technology brings. I'm waiting for luminescent auto paint that
glows at night and changes color with the touch of a button. Then
automakers can just put taillights on cars like they were big stickers.
I've seen the pin stripes already.
Walt Tampa, FL a/k/a the convex mirror man
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 18:25:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Aaron Posey <cadysrme@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [ETDOC] November 3-4th meet in the Smokies
Hello group-
We are planning another meet of the ETDOC for November 3rd
and 4th in Gatlinburg, TN. I have a group rate at the
Park Vista Hotel in the heart of Gatlinburg for $89, which
is normally in the mid-upper $100 bracket range. Hotel
information can be gathered at www.parkvista.com. BTW, they
have an indoor pool!!
We are in the workings for all the details..but so far it
looks like we will meet in the evening of the Saturday the
3rd at the hotel- go out for group dinnner..walk down the
streets Gatlinburg..which at that time should be lit up for
the Winterfest. The next morning meet for breakfast at the
hotel. Leave the hotel and visit the Aquarium of the
Smokies and the Cars of the Stars musuem. After those
tours..we will take the DeLoreans in to the Smokies for a
scenic drive.
We know it is short notice to the 3rd and 4th..but hope
many decide to attend. So far, there are 4-5 confirmed
DeLoreans.
Of course, as with all the other ETDOC meets, there will be
a write up in the following DeLorean World Magazine about
this meet..so a chance to get your name and car mentioned
in the mag!!
Thanks-
Aaron Posey
ETDOC
www.etdoc.com
cadysrme@xxxxxxxxx
3202
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 19:10:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: nick <nicky4xx@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: State Farm & collecting insurance
Joe,
I have SF and have never had a claim but am worried
should I ever have to. Do you have any docs that
might be helpful down the road. BTW, I hae had my car
since 87 with zero problems.
Nick
--- Joe Fedeli <fedeli@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Just a little personal experience for anyone with
> State Farm insurance. I
> used to have them with my other autos for over 12+
> years until I had
> physical damage on my door (DeLorean) then tried to
> collect on the policy.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 22:14:27 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: engine compartment light
Andy, The switch is very flimsey. I took mine off several times and fixed it
and it just keeps on breaking. That's why I have a new one on the web site
under electrical.
It won't break.
John
www.specialTauto.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 25
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 02:46:27 -0000
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: engine compartment light
Andy, mine does the exact same thing. I just put the bulb at an
angle so it touches the tab, where it has power, instead of the
disc where it doesn't. Works fine.
John Yeoman
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> Hey guys,
>
> can anyone tell me how this goofy thing is supposed to work? when
i bought
> the car, the switch was smashed down so it wouldn't bounce back up.
today i
> took the switch off and let the two wires stay there. i checked
the
> electrical diagram and learned that the light fixture has two
positive wires
> connected to it. that's the power for the whole thing. well, the
top tab
> for the light fixture turned on my test light, but the bottom one
didn't. so
> i figured that the light bulb must be broken, but it looks ok! i
then tested
> the socket where the bulb fits into, and there's no power where the
bulb
> touches it, yet i have power all around the little disc it fits
into. when i
> put a jumper wire between the wires as the touch the socket, i then
have
> power to one of the wires at the switch.
>
> is my socket broken? it looks ok - there isn't much to break in
there! but
> it's crazy - the tab has power but the disc that the bulb slips
into doesnt,
> and that breaks the connection. what gives??
>
> Andy
>
> Soma576@xxxx
> 1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
> Fargo, ND 58102
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
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