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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. RE: Re: Nationality of DeLorean
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: A/c fixes
From: "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Cooling problems
From: "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: DMC Prices
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
5. Quick question
From: paulheymeson@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
6. Front License Plates
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
7. Re: Nationality of DeLorean
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
8. Re: Re. Euro front plate holder
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
9. Re: Re: Cooling problems
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
10. Re: Re: Cooling problems, update
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
11. hum in idle speed regulator
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: AC Compressor wont come on
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
13. Cooling fans refuse to work right
From: aaron_t_graham@xxxxxxxxx
14. Re: DMC Prices
From: Trevor L Johnson <comet4055@xxxxxxxx>
15. Vin 173???
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia@xxxxxxxxx>
16. A Delorean - with Hooters!
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia@xxxxxxxxx>
17. Paint removal
From: Jay Jones <JayJones@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Hot Start frustration
From: badgeman46@xxxxxxxxxxx
19. Re: Quick question
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
20. RE: hum in idle speed regulator
From: "Brandon" <bsmoody@xxxxxxx>
21. Air Metering Unit
From: "J Rowe" <rowejj@xxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: Paint removal
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
23. Re: Cooling fans refuse to work right
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
24. RE: Cooling fans refuse to work right
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Car for sale
From: "Greg Bell" <gbell@xxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 15:33:50 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Nationality of DeLorean
I have been able to show my car as a special interest, 80's sport, British
(all of those pounds invested), and DeLorean (when I was able to get at
least five cars to show up). My car was always welcome because it is so
different than all of the other cars in the show.
Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031
[moderator snip]
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 14:53:21 -0700
From: "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: A/c fixes
Correct me if I am wrong, but I thought the "proper" way to convert the
system over was to change the dryer. I think the dryer is in the
accumulater and one must change the accumulater to change the dryer.
Therefore, a system changeover is MUCH more than $35. Please let me know
the proper procedure.
Brian 16584
>From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Re: [DML] A/c fixes
>Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 22:16:10 -0500
>
>Converting to R-134a is cheap. One kit from Walmart for $35 is almost
>enough.
>However, you have to make sure you don't get any air or moisture inside.
>I had a friend with a little pump that we hooked up to the system and let
>it
[moderator snip]
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 14:55:47 -0700
From: "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Cooling problems
I seem to have the opposite problem. My car will run for 10-15 mins before
the temp guage even moves. I assume the thermo. is stuck open. Does this
often happen?
Brian 16584
>From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: Re: [DML] Cooling problems
>Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 21:13:31
>
>Sacha,
>I had to change the thermostat in my delorewan it has 21,000 miles on it
>and supposedly the previous owne drove it at least 10 miles a week.
[moderator snip]
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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 22:14:58 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DMC Prices
Going thru various automotive magazines you will always find a good
number of premium quality DeLorean's for sale at many well recognized
classic and exotic car dealerships. While looking and visiting some
of the dealers over the years when searching for a car of my own, I
can tell you that they would never allow a poor quality D (or any
other car for that mater) on any of their lots for fear of damaging
their reputations. Keep in mind I'm speaking of high class dealers,
not mom and pop places. Which is why when you find a car located at
one of these dealers they will usually have a price tag anywhere from
$20K-30K. With many of these cars available, I have a hard time
beliveing that someone is going to wait 12 months, when they can have
a car just as good for $30K-40K less. Could it be cause of a
warranty? I doubt it. I don't believe a person who collects classic
cars keeps a waranty on his list of standards when chosing a car.
Chances are no matter what the car, if you can afford $60K for it,
you can afford the repair bills as well. Even so, DMC Houston is
$30,000 less on thier cars, an they come with what appears to be the
same warranty.
Back when D1 was selling cars for $30K, I was told that there was a
waiting list for 3 months to get the car. Once D1 had the deposit for
the car, they would then locate a D that was being sold by a private
party and purchase it for me. They would choose the best looking car,
that required the least amount of work. From there they would
replace/repair what needed it, and then deliver the car to me. Upon
delivery, the balance would be due. When I then asked about labor
rates to work on a car that I would purchase on my own for D1 to
raise to the same standard, the woman scoffed and became even more
rude than before. I don't think D1 wants to be a repair shop any
more. Perhaps that is the reason for the emphasis on trying to only
sell cars (and the reason for the high price). Although I don't see
what warrants the constantly raising price.
As a side note if anyone is interested, it looks as though DeLorean
One pretty much "cut and pasted", then switched a couple of words
around from DMC Houston's advertisement page for refurbished
DeLorean's onto their web site.
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, delorean502@xxxx wrote:
> I have contacted them, and they said they have a waiting list of
over
> 12 months.
>
> Erik
<SNIP>
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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 22:46:32 -0000
From: paulheymeson@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Quick question
Hi List,
Regarding my accumulator which I hope to replace this weekend due to
hot starting.
I just heard a knocking noise coming from the area where it is
tonight after I switched off it happens about 6 seconds.
Does this happen when it's knackered?
Cheers all.
Paul UK741.
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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 23:05:16 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Front License Plates
Obviously the usuall warning applies here.
The reason that most states have laws re: front plates is not to
identify you car easier in case of an accident, or any other wrong
doing. It's for speed enforcement. To check you speed via laser or
radar, the device needs something reflective, flat, and (usually)
verticle to bouce the signal off of. As I've read, the Corvette and
the Mazda RX-7 are the hardest vehicles to track, especially when
they're painted black. This is because black doesn't reflect light
that well, and because over all the cars design doesn't have many
flat portions to reflect off of. You can now imagine how this is on
the DeLorean. The only flat, verticle portions on the front are the
bumper and the spoiler (headlights are concave, so they don't always
work). And both of these are black. If you put a license plate on the
front, you will have a perfect target! As an example, I don't have my
plate mouted up front. Where I live, the city will place automated
radar check points to tell you your speed. The record for me is 12-15
feet before a check point could track me. I usually have to be right
up on them before they will register my speed. This isn't a license
to speed though. Unlike an automated check point, a person can move
around and adjust his/her aim at a target. Plus removal of the front
plate doesn't make you invisable. It just reduces the chances of
someone recording your speed.
Now, I am not advocating that any one break the law here. But if a
cop wants to pull you over for whatever reason, he/she will find one,
BELIEVE ME! Most time you'll only recieve a "fix it" ticket for
having no licence plate up front (check your local municipality for
regulations and/or fine amounts). So you can probably get out of this
ticket with little or no money. But in any case, this is much cheaper
than any sort of speeding ticket that you may recieve. I know alot of
folks here on the DML are looking for ways to not only keep their
insurace rate low, but to also retain their policies. If you are
going to get pulled over, it's more economical to recieve a ticket
for lack of a licence plate, then a ticket for speeding. Lack of a
front plate will also save you ALOT of headache if you community uses
the new (and disputed) photo-radar to track speed "offenders". Plus
the DeLorean just doesn't look as good with that peice of gawky
looking metal strapped to the front. But maybe that's just my
opinion...
If anyone has any questions, e-mail me privately.
-Robert
vin 6585
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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 23:08:02 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Nationality of DeLorean
I guess it's like when you were a kid. No one wants to invite a more
popular "person" to their party, because they don't want them to get
all the attention!
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxx> wrote:
> Someone should tell the morons who run the "America only" car shows!
>
> FWIW, The British car shows (for the most part) have welcomed
DeLoreans
> to participate. This is not true of the American car shows.
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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 00:39:55 -0000
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re. Euro front plate holder
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, dmc12@xxxx wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I have seen a Euro holder advertised on a German stainless steel
site
> but unfortunately I can remember the address, it was something like
> DeLorean steelproducts.com ?
The address for this is:
http://www.delorean-steel-products.com/frmsetel.html
That is for holding the rear plate, though, not the front one.
John Yeoman
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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 22:15:15 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Cooling problems
Gus,
Now I understand; thank you.
DMC Joe <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
www.dmc.tv ....... Starts Monday June 18
DeLorean services
----- Original Message -----
From: gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2001 6:40 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Cooling problems
DMCJoe,
Hmmm, think we're both wrong. Don't the fans cycle on and off with
the A/C compressor? My car is modified to run the fans when A/C is
selected at the mode switch, regardless of the compressor status
(which is what I intended to say with my sloppy grammar).
If I ever claimed to 100% right, I was completely mistaken.
Gus Schlachter
Austin, TX
4695
[moderator snip]
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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 22:23:00 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Cooling problems, update
Sacha,
You are making a wise decision to leave the thermostat replacement to the shop. If you need a thermostat quickly you should be able to get one at your local parts store or a Volvo parts counter. Ask for the waterpump thermostat for a 1980 to 1986 260 or 760 GLE V-6 gasoline version. Actually the shop that you bring your DeLorean to probably has more resources to obtain that part.
DMC Joe
www.dmc.tv ....... Starts Monday June 18
----- Original Message -----
From: Sacha Prins
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2001 10:24 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: Cooling problems, update
DMC Joe, Ryan, Dave,
I'd love to test the thermostat myself, however, due to the setup of the
engine (with turbo kit completely obstructing the waterpump) I'm going
to leave this one up to the shop.
[moderator snip]
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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 22:48:28 -0400
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: hum in idle speed regulator
Ever since completing my water pump replacement project, I have had a
rough idle problem, mostly when the engine is cold
.
I am still working through the obvious possibilities, but in the
process of doing so I noticed that
when the ignition is on but the engine is not running, there is a
soft continuous hum coming from the idle speed regulator (this is
*not* the buzz from the frequency valve). I have never noticed this
before. Is this normal, or could it be related to my problem?
Any tips on diagnosing the regulator? If there is a problem, how
does one differentiate between bad regulator and a bad ECU? Can I
measure the electrical activity between the two? Well, I know I can
do that, but what should it look like?
Thanks for any guidance.
--Pete Lucas
VIN #06703
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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 03:28:27 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: AC Compressor wont come on
In the description it was indicated that although the cooling fans
cycled they didn't run continuosly with the a/c on. It was also
indicated that there wasn't any power at the compressor. This leads me
to believe that the low pressure switch is probably holding back the
power due to a low pressure condition in the system. There is no high
pressure switch although the manual mentions one. The cooling fans are
supposed to cycle against the otterstadt switch in the coolant pipe
but if the mode switch is in the A/C position and the low presssure
switch is "on" it forces the cooling fans to run continuosly. If the
A/C cylcles against the low pressure switch the fans might shut down
if the otterstadst switch is satisfied. I think the fanzilla will
force the cooling fans to run when the A/C switch is on regardless of
the otterstadt or low pressure switch. Just because the cooling fans
run you cannot assume the power is comming from the mode switch. The
fact that there was no power at the compressor clutch means the
cooling fans were not being run by the A/C circuit. There is no need
to worry electricaly about the compressor clutch since it won't run if
no power is present.(You can always just do a continuity check of
the coil on the compressor clutch) The trouble is in the circuit
before that. I think that your understanding is not taking into
account that the cooling fans can be run from 2 different circuits,
the otterstadt switch and the A/C compressor circuit.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, dherv10@xxxx wrote:
> David, As per the diagram, The voltage comes thru #10 fuse the
> goes thru the mode switch then goes thru a low pressure and
> some cars may also have a high pressure switch.
[moderator snip]
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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 03:36:42 -0000
From: aaron_t_graham@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Cooling fans refuse to work right
I've read all the posts I can find about fixing cooling system
problems, and I've replaced everything of any significance in the
cooling system in the last 6 months:
About 4 months ago, DMC Houston diagnosed and repaired a problem with
the wires running to the cooling fans. That was the beginning of my
cooling system problems. About 2 months ago, the water pump started
making a lot of noise. I also had that replaced.
About two weeks ago I noticed that when I sat idled for a long time,
the temperature got dangerously high, and the cooling fans would not
come on. Thinking I had the infamous air bubbles in the water pump,
I bled the air from the water pump and promptly installed the self-
bleeder overheat protector kit. This didn't solve the problem.
I know coolant is circulating through the system, because if I take a
2 hour drive on the interstate, the engine stays cool. However, if I
sit in stopped traffic for 5 minutes (poorly designed traffic systems
make Urbana-Champaign a perpetual traffic jam), the temperature
quickly rises above the 220 mark.
The cooling fans come on when the A/C compressor is on, and when I
short the fan switch wires together, the fans are on constantly.
Thinking the fan switch would be the only thing left to replace, I
installed a new one. This, also, did not solve the problem.
I have now hit a brick wall. I figured I could bleed the entire
system, but I'm not convinced that will do anything. I know coolant
is circulating past the fan switch. The fan switch is on the
*bottom* of the radiator pipe, and the pipe gets extremely hot when
the engine is running. The pipe and adjacent hose, like in most D's,
I assume, are inclined slightly so any air bubbles in that pipe would
propagate up to the water pump.
Or I could order *another* cooling fan switch...
If anyone has a clue what I could try next, please let me know.
Aaron
#1506
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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 20:45:43 -0700
From: Trevor L Johnson <comet4055@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DMC Prices
Yes They do exist, I should know, I own a DeLorean One Built DeLorean.
It took about 5 months after the down payment. Superb Machine. Smells
new, Drives New, Runs like it is right off the showroom floor. I have put
about 5k miles on it since last September. Worth every penny. There are
several that are sold every year, but the time required makes the wait
approximately 4-6 months.
Trevor Johnson
DMC #'s 4055(the 'new' car) and 6974
www.geocities.com/dmc6974
www.deloreanstore.com
________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 23:32:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Vin 173???
VIN 173????
Thats another thing about ebay, sometimes people don't
know what they are talking about...
I believe Deloreans started at vin 500 - this guy
claims 173....
Its at:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=592363778&r=0&t=0
The other thing, I've seen several pictures that claim
"new leather on the seats"... as the one above, and
NONE of them look like they are in good shape...
Unless there is something about the replaced leather
seats - mine are original, and I don't have a wrinkle
in them... not a blemish.... these so called new ones
are always beat up looking... mine are original..
although I go through extreme measures, I make people
take things out of their pockets before they can sit
in them, I also keep them very well lubed with
silicone based sealant...
You can see pics of my seats at:
http://www.iqintermedia.com/~pikem
anyhow, I just wondered because I see lots of people
claiming new seats, and they look like crap to me.
Mike
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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 23:46:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: A Delorean - with Hooters!
Went to lunch today with a good friend who is moving
to another state.... he always wanted to ride in a
Delorean, so I got mine out... then he pushed his luck
and wanted to drive it (gotta draw the line
somewhere).. anyhow, we went to Hooters, here in
Albuquerque.
I noticed in the doorway they had pictures of Hooters
girls all over Harley's, and some old 57 chevy's, a
hooters race car, and even a ferrari....
We were eating and one of the girls coming in to start
her shift said, "Wow! there is a time machine
outside!" - ofcourse I knew it was mine... about 5
others went out, including the manager to see it....
when they came back in I yelled over and asked how
they liked the Delorean.. the manager came over and
asked if it was mine, the details, etc.
He was very impressed it had 4500 miles, and could not
believe the condition... I told him there are many out
there in excellent shape, and that most people that
have them take good care of them...
Anyhow, to make a long story short, I was given the
honor of being asked if I would allow them to take a
photo of my car with the Hooters girls on it, in it,
etc.
This Saturday I need to go back, where they will have
a professional photographer take the photos.... not
sure if it will show up nationwide in other hooters or
not, but if you ever stop by ABQ, NM and goto Hooters,
the Delorean in the pic is 855, and the guy in the
picture with a smile bigger than a Mac truck is me.
Once the photo is done, I will put it up so you guys
can see it.
Mike
VIN 855
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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 08:10:26 -0500
From: Jay Jones <JayJones@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Paint removal
Hello all you DeLorean, before I get into my issue I wish to tell all who
contribute thank you, the discussions here are so very valuable and I have
learned tons about my DMC that I would never have known. So thank you. Now
on the issue.
I have just bought VIN 1118, (On Ebay for those that were apart of
that conversation). Apart from some minor upgrades it runs great. However
it is painted Red. The seller told me that the dealer painted it to move it
off the lot in the lot, and that it had no body damage. Naive as I am I
believed him. However when I took apart the door to get to the window motor
I made a discovery. You guessed it, Bondo in the holes from a dent puller.
I wanted to cry. I was planning on removing the paint and getting it back
to the stainless steal that we all love. I can't afford to buy another door
right now. The metal looks as though it would only be some slight dings to
it. In other words if I did remove the paint I don't think it would look
bad, (not great or even possibly good, but not bad). I also bought it as a
driver car. Not really for shows or as a true collector but as a head
turner.
What do you guys think? The way I see it I have really three
options,
1. Leave it Red, It looks nice but it isn't Stainless and I don't spend
money I don't have.
2. Strip the paint, Hope it still looks good, and leave it like that.
3. Strip the paint, buy a new door, have the total stainless appearance.
One other quick question and is more of a curiosity. How many DeLoreans
were produced?
Thank you all again.
Over and Out #1118
Jay Jones, CNA
First Federal Bank
Network Administrator
Desk (320)-234-4553
Cell (320)- 583-9652
jayjones@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
http://www.ffhh.com/
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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 13:18:05 -0000
From: badgeman46@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Hot Start frustration
My DeLorean won't start once it has been shut off from operating
temp. I have been trying to figure this one out to no avail. I
replaced the accumulator, which helped it in cold starting, but not
hot starting. I just finished getting a new fuel pump installed. The
old pump was corroded away to nothing, and it would have died soon,
but alas it did not solve my hot start problem. Any Ideas??
-Jay
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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 15:36:16 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Quick question
You'll here a "knocking" or "Clanking" noise coming from it if it is
loosing system pressure. That's just the spring and diaphram that is
inside the accumulator moving as the system is loosing pressure. This
is what keeps the pressure in the system. If you are hearing that
noise...your Accumulator may be good and you may have a faulty check
valve that's on the fuel pump? A fuel leak somewhere? I don't know
that best way in testing the check valve but I would do this before
replacing the Accum.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, paulheymeson@xxxx wrote:
> Hi List,
>
> Regarding my accumulator which I hope to replace this weekend due
to
> hot starting.
> I just heard a knocking noise coming from the area where it is
> tonight after I switched off it happens about 6 seconds.
> Does this happen when it's knackered?
>
> Cheers all.
> Paul UK741.
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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 11:35:45 -0400
From: "Brandon" <bsmoody@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: hum in idle speed regulator
This is how it should be working. It should
HUM with ignition on and engine not running.
Replacing the water pump requires the removal
of everything upstream of the intake valves. SO,
more than likely, you have loosened up a vacuum
line or something. Check everywhere very carefully.
-Brandon
> Ever since completing my water pump replacement project, I have had a
> rough idle problem, mostly when the engine is cold
> .
> I am still working through the obvious possibilities, but in the
> process of doing so I noticed that
> when the ignition is on but the engine is not running, there is a
> soft continuous hum coming from the idle speed regulator (this is
> *not* the buzz from the frequency valve). I have never noticed this
> before. Is this normal, or could it be related to my problem?
>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 22:58:07 -0500
From: "J Rowe" <rowejj@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Air Metering Unit
I've got a question about the air metering unit. I haven't been able to get my car started
at all this week so I went out fooling around with it this morning. Heres what I found. It
wouldn't start again so I took off the air filter cover and pushed down on the air metering
unit and then tried to start it. It started right up but wouldn't keep itself running unless I
gave it gas. As long as I gave it gas it would run but as soon as I took my foot off the gas
it would die about 2 seconds later. I'm guessing that the air metering unit controls the fuel/
air mixture. Anyone know what's going on and what I might take a look at to fix it's problem?
On a side note, there is also what looks to be a hollow plug between the air metering unit
and fuel distributor. Is it supposed to be like that or is there supposed to be a screw or some-
thing that goes in there? One last thing. I was thinking of checking all my vacuumm lines while
I'm at it. Is there anyone that has a list or diagram of all the lines on a website or something
so I don't miss any? All that I've checked so far seem to be in good shape.
Thanks all.........................Jason # 5903
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 16:36:42 -0000
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Paint removal
Jay, sorry I can't answer your question about paint removal, but the
DeLorean Owners' Association says there were 8,583 DeLoreans
produced. No one really seems to know how they arrived at this
number, though. 6,539 were 1981's 1,126 were 1982's and 918 were
1983's. Some factory workers claim they produced over 10,000
automobiles, but a lot of the factory records are long gone, so no one
may every know exactly how many DeLoreans were produced.
There is also a statistical study on this that is kind of interesting
if you
want to take a look at it. The address is:
http://www.dmcnews.com/faq/n_chron.htm
John Yeoman
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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 12:58:56 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Cooling fans refuse to work right
Aaron,
It sounds like you still have an out-of-range otterstat (or fan switch as
you call it).
All otterstats are not made to come on at the same low temperature. The
original one on my car does not come on until the 220 degree mark. The new
one comes on at 180 degrees (If I remember correctly.)
Try this: take both your old and new otterstats out and drop them in a
shallow pan of water with a thermometer and boil them one at a time on the
stove to see what temperature they switch at. You should hear a little
click when they switch, but it helps to hold onto them with the alligator
clips from a continuity meter. Your cooling system will run at least as hot
as the otterstat dictates.
Walt Tampa, FL
-----Original Message-----
From: aaron_t_graham@xxxxxxxxx <aaron_t_graham@xxxxxxxxx>
<snip>
>The cooling fans come on when the A/C compressor is on, and when I
>short the fan switch wires together, the fans are on constantly.
>Thinking the fan switch would be the only thing left to replace, I
>installed a new one. This, also, did not solve the problem.
>
>I have now hit a brick wall.
<snip>
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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 12:37:41 -0500
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Cooling fans refuse to work right
Aaron - There is an otterswitch on the pipe that runs
along the left side of the engine compartment. This
switch should be on the bottom side of the pipe. Sometimes
well-meaning mechanics will rotate the pipe so the switch
is on top. This can cause problems with the fans
coming on at the proper temperature.
Mike
From: aaron_t_graham@xxxxxxxxx [mailto:aaron_t_graham@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2001 10:37 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Cooling fans refuse to work right
I've read all the posts I can find about fixing cooling system
problems, and I've replaced everything of any significance in the
cooling system in the last 6 months:
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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 15:14:47 -0400
From: "Greg Bell" <gbell@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Car for sale
I've been considering selling my car for a while and with all the talk about
selling recently, now is as good a time as any. Brief summary: 82, gray
interior, 5 speed, 55,500 miles. Mechanically it's in good shape and runs
great with no problems except for needing an A/C compressor. The stainless
panels are in great shape too with the only flaw being a small bend in the
T-panel. The interior needs more work than anything. Needs new seat covers,
shift lever boot, interior window posts, the binnacle is good but has a
crack in the dash where the right speaker is, the right window doesn't work.
Contact me for more info or questions on condition.
If you're looking for a car you can drive while fixing the smaller things
like interior pieces, this would be a good one to look at. Price is $9500.
I'm selling this car to find one in almost perfect shape. I bought it with
the intention of fixing up all the little things but I do not have the time
to fix all these things myself so if you have a delorean in close to perfect
shape and are looking for one to do a little work on, maybe we could work a
trade. I'd prefer to sell it outright and look for another on my own but who
knows.
Please let me know if you're seriously interested and I will get you some
photos and answer questions. my home email: LoneWulf111 (AT)aol.com
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