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There are 23 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Fuel Problems.
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
2. Hood Problems
From: Willie Mack <wmack@xxxxxx>
3. SELL A DELOREAN
From: Frank Blah <theamdman@xxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Advice on buying!
From: "H. Julian Wainthrop, IV" <smeghead79@xxxxxxxx>
5. Craig Radio Display Repair
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Wide Black Sidestripes
From: "Sal celeste" <Rustproof@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Volvo valve in air intake
From: "Aaron King" <floodle@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Fuel Problems.
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
9. Dents
From: SGSKBM@xxxxxxx
10. RE: Re: Fuel Problems.
From: "Matthew Walker" <mwalker@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Deloreans in Illinois for sale, Both prices lowered again!
From: "Mike $" <sheilaridez@xxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Paintless Dent Repair
From: "dmc1982" <dmc1982@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Volvo valve in air intake
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
14. Rear Rotor Disc Removal Question
From: "Mr Copies" <mike@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Water Pump and A/C Idler bearings
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
16. Re: Volvo valve in air intake
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
17. Three questions and a fun project
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Dents
From: Aaron Posey <cadysrme@xxxxxxxxx>
19. Top 10 Questions from New Owner
From: Doug Hornsby <govenorofvirginia@xxxxxxxxx>
20. DeLorean on Ebay
From: Aaron Posey <cadysrme@xxxxxxxxx>
21. Carpet Adhesive
From: "Fernando Dillard" <fdillard@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: Dashboard Question
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
23. Re: How to get the Angle Drive off?
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 04:02:17 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fuel Problems.
There are different fuel starvation problems and different symptoms.
If the problems seem to go away when you fill the tank then it is
usually a bad suction hose or loose-missing pick-up. If it seems to
happen at high speeds or heavy loads then it could be a dirty filter.
The starvation could be caused by a suction leak ahead of the pump, a
kinked suction hose, a bad pump, a dirty filter, etc. When you have
fuel problems the place to start is in the fuel tank. IMHO most of the
fuel system problems start there. Be careful when installing the fuel
pump because if you turn it as you install it you could kink the
suction hose even if you put a spring in the hose. If the filter
hasn't been replaced in a long time do it. One bad tank of gas could
ruin the filter. The fuel is constantly circulating through it so even
if the tank is clean all of the dirt could be in it. You could cut it
open to verify after you replace it. Water could make the car act like
a fuel starvation problem. A little Dry Gas might help if there isn't
too much. If there are large amounts of water the tank will have to be
drained and the water separated out. When you open the tank and look
in you will see the water if it is there and any dirt. Observe safety
precautions when working on the fuel system as it is a dangerous area
of the car if precautions are not taken. Have plenty of ventilation, a
fire extingushier handy, gloves and safety glasses, approved
containers for fuel if removed, an assistant nearby in case of
trouble. Wipe up any spilled fuel immediatly, keep from contact with
skin and eyes, don't breath the fumes, and no open flames or
electrical lights.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Matthew Walker" <mwalker@xxxx> wrote:
> I know this has been beaten to death. But is there another
possible
> cause to the fuel starvation symptoms normally caused by a collapsed
> inlet fuel line? ( I know my problem is not a collapsed line since
> there is currently in place the fun to spring fix. )
>
> Another question possibly related -- comments or info on the
envelope
> style pre-filter -- is there an alternative?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 00:46:18 -0400
From: Willie Mack <wmack@xxxxxx>
Subject: Hood Problems
Has anyone else had any problems with the hood hitting the windshield wipers
when you try to close it. Does anyone have any suggestions for fixing this
problem?
Thanks
Willie Mack
Vin 5043
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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 05:10:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Blah <theamdman@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: SELL A DELOREAN
Ok Guys,
I am in desperate need of selling my Delorean
because I need the cash. We have had the car about a
year and a half it has 63,285 Miles on it its an 82
Model year, grey leather interior, the stainless steel
is in perfect condition, and the engine was just
worked on 2 weeks ago, the fuel system was flushed,
fuel pump replaced, all normal maintanance was done on
it (Oil change, etc.) we bought the car for $15,000 a
year and a half ago. we put $7,000 into it with
various engine repairs, window repairs, a/c repairs
and upgrades and other details. All I am asking is
for what we put into it $22,000 please tell anyone
about it that is interested in a delorean that is in
top of the line condition. We will negotiate on the
price to some extent, but as I said that is what we
have in it.
Thanks,
Frank
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 08:27:07 -0700
From: "H. Julian Wainthrop, IV" <smeghead79@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Advice on buying!
Dwayne,
I recommend finding one with higher miles (40k-80k). This way, the
recommended upgrades have more than likely been performed, and things
which could have gone wrong have already gone wrong (and hopefully been
fixed). Moreover, I think most car experts would agree that a car which
has been sitting for twenty years has far more damage than a car which
has been driven, at least once a week, on a regular basis. I know that
feeling ... I'm worried about my car, and I haven't driven it in five
days!
Just my two cents. I'm sure there's more out there, but I'm off to play.
;)
Best of luck!
Farrar Hudkins
New Orleans, LA
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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 08:30:56 -0700
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Craig Radio Display Repair
Hello list,
Having benefited greatly from my 90 days of DML Boot Camp, I'm ready to
make my contribution. We all have specialties, Rob, DMCJoe, John,
Wayne, Daryl, Frank, the 3 Daves, Stephen, and many others. I have
mine. Included is the (IMAO) definitive repair of the Craig display.
It's much too long and complicated to cover it on the list, plus it
really needs pictures. The obvious solution is to write it up for
DeLorean World. In order to do this I need another radio for the
pictures at the various stages. If you are willing and able to donate
one for the cause (I pay $30 including shipping) it would be much
appreciated..
Long term, if you feel you can make this repair, I'll sell you the very
flexible wire (the key to it all). If you screw it up trying and don't
destroy it completely I'll finish it for you. If you just want it done
and aren't a super solderer I'll do it for you (not for free, only the
wisdom (wind) is free). The repair consists of 16 sub miniature, very
flexible wires, 32 gauge, 18 strands of soft #44 copper with an ultra
flexible plastic sheath (made to flex continuously in applications). If
you want to get your own 100' of wire and/or try the next size down (34
gauge, 7 sliver plated #44 strands that flexes like a rubber band), you
can get that too but it's about 90 cents a foot (I'll give you the
address). The stuff I used because I didn't feel that much flex was
needed and because it added strength is about 40 cents a foot. Enough
to do a radio would cost you $4 with shipping.
If you just want to repair the old trace cable and don't intend to play
tapes, I'll write up a few hints on that in the next day or two. Also
requires advanced soldering skills but I'll tell you all about it in my
next Craig Repair posting (and if you decide to try it and screw it up,
see above)..
Les
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 12:22:06 -0400
From: "Sal celeste" <Rustproof@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Wide Black Sidestripes
Just thought the guys would like to know that DMC in Houston has the Wide Black Sidestripe kits back in stock under "appearance items" for a hundred forty-nine bucks.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 05:27:06
From: "Aaron King" <floodle@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Volvo valve in air intake
Could someone who has performed this modification be kind enough to answer a
few questions for me? I was thinking of doing this to my car and wasn't
sure about a couple things. The aluminium hose that goes from the main air
hose to the engine block, do I just remove it? Does the warm air just shoot
out of the engine into nowhere? Is it just as simple as replacing the hose
from the pontoon into the air cleaner with a straight thru one? Also,
someone said that the valve aids in cold starting. How much is that
affected by the removal of the valve? Thanks in advance to anyone who
responds.
Aaron King
Kirkland, WA
vin#1217
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 17:58:45 -0000
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fuel Problems.
Matthew, If your worried about water or other foreign matter in the
tank. Jack the front of the car up just a little above level and the
water or foreign matter will normally collect in the back of the
tank.Then get a hose and siphon it out. Nothing messy to fool with.
If you will run it into a bucket or pan you will see any contaminates.
I pulled out about 1/4 of a cup of water and residue from the tank.
As for your fuel starvation problem, That could be many places around
the fuel system. If normal maintance isn't done,then it could be as
easy as a fuel pump, fuel screen,fuel filter, injector seals where
the cylinder is sucking more air than it should. Another place could
be the adjustment of the air flow meter, and the adjustment of the
Primary pressure regulator. You could also have filter screens in the
injectors stopped up if injector cleaners haven't been run thru the
gas ever so often. Hope this helps.
I think the envelope your talking about is the filter screen on the
end of the pick up hose going to the fuel pump. If it's clean, leave
it there it's not your problem.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
email if you need futher info.
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Matthew Walker" <mwalker@xxxx> wrote:
> I know this has been beaten to death. But is there another
possible
> cause to the fuel starvation symptoms normally caused by a collapsed
> inlet fuel line? ( I know my problem is not a collapsed line since
> there is currently in place the fun to spring fix. )
>
> Another question possibly related -- comments or info on the
envelope
> style pre-filter -- is there an alternative?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 18:04:38 -0000
From: SGSKBM@xxxxxxx
Subject: Dents
I have a couple of dime sized dents that apparently are now over two
years old and I never noticed them. They are in the top of the front
fender where it meets the top edge back towards the windshield.
Now that I know they are there they bother me. I never noticed them
before, and then one night with the door up I could see them from the
rear of the car. I suspect they came from the factory this way or
were added during shipment. In any case they are very small and not
very apparent.
Question:
Has anyone tried the "paintless" ding removal program on a Delorean?
If so, how did it turn out? If not, why not? Seems like a perfect
solution for me, but I have never seen a post about it in the past.
Scot
6452
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 14:33:20 -0500
From: "Matthew Walker" <mwalker@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Fuel Problems.
Walt, David,
Thanks for the replies --
I am going to elaborate a bit on the problem. If the car is cold it
will start up but has to idle a bit before it can be driven. Then it
will run fine for about 20-30 minutes (20-30 minutes is drive time it
has idled in the drive way for up to about 40 minutes with no problems)
Then I get the classic symptoms of a collapsed inlet line. i.e. buzzing
from the fuel pump, engine dies. It will almost always immediately
restart but will usually die quite quickly if any load is put on it. If
I let it sit for about 5-10 minutes it will restart and will run but not
for long.
Things that have been done so far.
1. Replaced fuel pump
2. Replaced inlet line pre-filter
3. Replaced fuel filter
4. Inlet line has been replaced (not with the correct part- that is the
next step I intend to do)
5. Tried using the spring fix for the hose. Spring is set such that it
butts up against the inlet filter on one end and the fuel pump on the
other.
The reason I asked if anything else besides a collapsing fuel could
cause the problem is because it didn't start occurring until I replaced
the fuel pump, filter, and inlet line.
Currently I have not tried to add gas to see if that resolves the
problem temporarily. (I haven't made it as far as a gas station.)
My next steps it seems are to drain the tank and completely clean it
out, replace the inlet line and inlet filter.
Any other suggestions?
Matthew Walker
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 21:45:12 -0000
From: "Mike $" <sheilaridez@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Deloreans in Illinois for sale, Both prices lowered again!
Hi, I'm selling my 29,000 mile Delorean for $10,500 OBO, it can be seen
here: http://www.classifieds2000.com/cgi-cls/ad.exe?P1+C14+R1046048
(be sure to check out the long list of updates that I have had done to this
car)
Throw out a number and we'll see what we can work out, I really need to get
money fast to pay for my apartment and school fees so drop me a line if you
are the least bit interested. For the record, the car only needs the
following items fixed before it could be deemed a show car: headliner is
sagging, windows work but are off their tracks, small electrical leak
(common problem, I think it is in the lights on the doors), and the trunk
won't pop open on it's own (requires you hold in the lever and lift it
before the struts kick in). This is a great car, and is an awesome deal.
The interior is beautiful and the exterior has no known body work under that
paint, it has been assured by two body men now. Please call, I can't keep up
with e-mail: 309-527-4166
And my good friend Steve Flynn is selling his Delorean. It is flawless
inside and out, and he has personally told me that he would consider offers
as low as $16,000! He is taking a tremendous loss on this beautiful car,
but I believe he needs to get a new project for now. His hobby in the past
was restoring Jaguars for show, and I believe he has used that talent on his
beautiful DMC-12. It can be seen here:
http://www.classifieds2000.com/cgi-cls/ad.exe?P1+C14+A0+R1133329+Q358124349
His contact information is listed there.
Thanks for the help guys,
Mike Schaefer
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 17:45:26 -0400
From: "dmc1982" <dmc1982@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Paintless Dent Repair
My DeLorean and my wife's Acura unfortunately received some hail damage last
year while I was in South Carolina. Several paintless dent repair came to
town. These are big companies who literally have teams of people that chase
storms all over the country. They repaired the Acura with no problem. It
was much worse than the DeLorean and you can not tell at all where the many
dents were (and I am very critical).
The three companies that I took the DeLorean to passed on trying to fix it.
Two of them said that the access to the dents was not good enough from the
back side and the fiberglass shell would inhibit their technique. The other
one said they had tried to repair one once and the stainless was not as
malleable as regular steel and they couldn't guarantee results. They all
also said that it would have to be regrained after being done as it would
probably distort and smooth the surface. The process is most effective on
cars with clear coat so they can buff out the final distortion.
If you haven't seen them do it they use a bunch of smoothing tools , mostly
homemade, and a lot of patience to gently rub and smooth the surface back
into the position it really wants to be in. As long as it is not stretched
or creased it will naturally return to the flat surface. It takes about 1/2
and hour for a dime size hail dent.
It is a great procedure on a "regular" car to avoid losing your factory
paint but the DeLorean is not something they normally deal with. Just
wouldn't want them to make a minor problem worse.
Most of the DeLorean dealers offer dent repair and they deal with stainless
all the time.
Cecil Longwisch
#10663
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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 22:21:02 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Volvo valve in air intake
Replacing this is quite simple. First, you want to pull off the metal
heater hose. Mine was so badly corroded, that it just broke off at
the base near the exhaust headers. But I think it just pulls out.
You will not need to worry about a plume of hot air, since it will
only rise naturally though the opening. Nothing will be above it
anyways. Then remove the valve and the ducting between the elbow in
the pontoon, and the air cleaner. Now you want to go to an autoparts
store and get a 3 1/2 inch diameter round fresh air intake hose. It
will be a snug fit around the air cleaner, but an oversized fit around
the elbow in the pontoon. What I did for this was simply cut off the
built-in connecter on the end of the new hose, and used a ty-wrap (or
a hose clamp would work) to secure it down. Now your engine will
sound a tad louder (if your paraniod enough to hear that) and you
should fell slightly more kick at higher RPMs. I would take pictures
of what I have on my car, unfortunately it is off of it right now
along with the entire intake manifold while I replace the water pump
and give a good general tune-up. Good luck.
Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Aaron King" <floodle@xxxx> wrote:
> Could someone who has performed this modification be kind enough to
answer a
> few questions for me? I was thinking of doing this to my car and
wasn't
> sure about a couple things. The aluminium hose that goes from the
main air
> hose to the engine block, do I just remove it
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 18:21:19 -0700
From: "Mr Copies" <mike@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Rear Rotor Disc Removal Question
Hi
I need to remove a rear brake rotor disc and am running into a problem.
Here's what I've done.....
I removed the drive shaft, caliper and bolt and washer assembly that fits in
the middle of the disc. Is there something I'm missing? Is it just stuck
on there with 20 years of crud? or is there something else?
It's solid right now - there is no give in it at all. I'm hesitant to hit
it too hard to loosen it unless I know there is nothing else holding it on.
Sorry if this is a stupid question - I checked the archives and the manuals
and am out of ideas.
thanks
mike@xxxxxxxxxxxx
VIN# 17089
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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 22:24:35 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Water Pump and A/C Idler bearings
Does anyone here know if I need some kind of sealant on the large
gasket for the back cover or the water pump?
I am also attempting to replace the bearings in the AC idler (one has
almosted seiezed up!). But I am unsure exactly how I'm supposed to be
doing this. (I have the belt and bearying kit from PJ Grady).
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 22:34:01 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Volvo valve in air intake
The hot air hose doesn't connect INTO the engine. Mounted on the right
side exhaust maifold is what's called the heat stove. A very simple
design, it is a piece of metal wrapped around the exterior of the
exhaust manifold itself. Any air that is between the manifold and the
stove is warmed via radiant heat. This heated air is what is then
sucked into the intake solely by the vaccum created by the engine's
intake, nothing else. So to bypass the mixture valve, all you need to
do is remove the mixture valve, and disconnect the hot air hose. On my
car I have a fresh air intake hose connected between the adaptor on
the air box and the inlet duct located in the pontoon.
I beleve as stated by others that the air intake valve helps prevent
ice from forming inside of the intake manifold. Another item I think
is that it helps the engine warm up quicker to help reduce emissions.
But I'm not 100% positive on either.
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Aaron King" <floodle@xxxx> wrote:
> Could someone who has performed this modification be kind enough to
answer a
> few questions for me? I was thinking of doing this to my car and
wasn't
> sure about a couple things.
<SNIP>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 18:56:13 -0400
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Three questions and a fun project
Hello All,
First, today, I was doing a general inspection of my D, and came across the
following:
2 images of my driver's side torsion bar:
http://www.eskin.net/delorean/torsion1.JPG
http://www.eskin.net/delorean/torsion2.JPG
Notice how the torsion bar is somewhat corroded and slightly twisted in the
mounting hinge, and seems like some small gaps between the bar and the hinge
mounting point. Here is a photo of the passengers side for comparison:
1 image of my passenger's side torsion bar:
http://www.eskin.net/delorean/torsion3.JPG
Is this driver's side torsion bar something I need to consider getting
fixed? Is this "normal"?
Second, what tire pressures does everyone use? I checked my tire
pressure a few months ago (winter), and today, checked again and (of course,
duh) they were near 40PSI front and rear. So I adjusted them to the
pressures in the manual (30 rear, 23 front). Is this still the recommended
pressures I should adhere to for ordinary driving?
Third, while updating my "Your First Delorean" newbies photo page
(http://www.eskin.net/firstdelorean.html), I came across a connector in the
driver's footwell that goes nowhere... Can anyone identify what it's
purpose is/was? Here is a photo:
http://www.eskin.net/delorean/unknown.JPG No big deal, I'm just curious.
Finally, I built a small, portable digital voltmeter to accurately
monitor the voltage level while driving in Boston traffic in the summer with
the A/C on, as well as when working on the car without the engine running,
and/or just for looks/ fun. Here is a photo.. It was very easy to
assemble, and cost about $25 in parts. If anyone wants the parts list, just
let me know, and I'll put one together.
http://www.eskin.net/delorean/voltmeter.JPG I might try mounting it in the
console in place of the clock.
Thanks in advance,
-Hank Eskin
#1619, (just turned 22K miles today)
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 16:31:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Aaron Posey <cadysrme@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Dents
Hello-
I have had the dentless ding removal done on my left front
fender. I had a ding on the forward corner of the fender
and had the Dentologits remove it for me. WE first had to
remove the body panel off of the car, since the dent
couldn't be reached because of the fiberglass pontoon. He
then worked at it and removed the dent. After he was
finsished I had to use 80 grit sandpaper to lower some of
his spots. It was his first DeLorean and he was hesitant
to do anything rash on the car. After I sanded it, the
area looked much better, even though it is still visible
under some light. ON a painted car, the paint hides the
imperfections that are left behind. ON our stainless cars,
the upward motions are all visible (like small upward
pings) on the metal and must be sanded down.
The second DeLorean he removed the dent off of he did a
better job since he wasn't so scared to 'damage' the
stainless...mine was the guinea pig, lol.
So, if any of you need a dent removed from your cars..more
than likely you will have to remove the specific panel
before he will even touch the car--or if it is the doors,
remove the door panels...
Later,
Aaron Posey
--- SGSKBM@xxxxxxx wrote:
> I have a couple of dime sized dents that apparently are
>
> Has anyone tried the "paintless" ding removal program on
> a Delorean?
> If so, how did it turn out? If not, why not? Seems like
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 16:49:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Doug Hornsby <govenorofvirginia@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Top 10 Questions from New Owner
MODERATOR NOTE - Most of these answers are at:
http://www.dmcnews.com/faq/faq.htm
http://www.dmcnews.com/techmain.htm
http://www.dmcnews.com/files.html
===============================================
Greetings: I now owe 2912. Here are some dumb owner
Qs
1 - What type of oil do you prefer.
2 - Should you add oil if on a cool engine the oil
level is between the two nick marks on the dip stick.
3 - What air pressure do you run in front and rear.
4 - What is the best thing to clean the stainless
steel.
5 - With what do you wax or seal the stainless steel.
6 - Do you like Armoral for the interior (except the
steering wheel)
7 - How do you wash the car. ie. one should avoid
spraying a hose or high pressure wand over or into the
engine... right??
8 - Do you change oil filters with every oil change
and air cleaner too, or every other change. And do
you change oil every 3,000 miles or more.
9 - What do you use to blacken up the exterior parts,
like the baskets and bumper/fascia. Armoral or what?
10 - There is a hose about the size of a #2 pencil
coming off of the inside of the front driver's side
wheel, visible under the car which appears to access
the brakes !!??) It hangs down too much and I fear it
will catch on a piece of road trash. What is it.
Thanks for responding.
New-to-me #2912, August 81.
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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 17:56:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: Aaron Posey <cadysrme@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean on Ebay
There is a Delorean on ebay, vin 901, that looks like to be
a decent car. I talked with the owner of the car and I am
going to go check it out MOnday afternoon. If anyone has
looked at this car on ebay and would like it checked out or
has any questions, just email me and I will get as many
answers as I can.
Later,
Aaron Posey
btw...email me off of the list at cadysrme (at) yahoo.com
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 18:14:26 -0700
From: "Fernando Dillard" <fdillard@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Carpet Adhesive
Hi List,
What is the recommended adhesive for installing the driver and
passenger
floor carpets?
Thanks,
Fernando
VIN# 10811
--- Fernando Dillard
--- fdillard@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
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Message: 22
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 16:46:37 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Dashboard Question
Fernando,
Asking this question of the list is somewhat counter productive. Just like any other product purchase, direct your question to the merchant you bought the product from. Warren or Stephen at the DeLorean Motor Company would be the most credible source to answer your dashboard question.
DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Fernando Dillard
To: dmcnews
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2001 5:44 PM
Subject: [DML] Dashboard Question
Hi List,
I recently bought a dashboard from DMC Houston (Grey for 82 DMC-12).
the dash does not have the little holes (grillwork?) on top where the front
speakers
mount.
My question: Is this a new feature or a manufacturing error? Is anybody
else's dash like this?
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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 22:39:06 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: How to get the Angle Drive off?
CAUTION: Excessive force placed on the angle drive mounting bolt can cause damage to the upper and or the lower suspension links.
DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Parnham
Subject: Re: [DML] How to get the Angle Drive off?
Andrei,
I did this job only last week, If you are lifting the car then you must be
working from the front of the car. I had success after unbolting the brake
calliper, swing it out of the way, then get a very heavy duty open ended
spanner ( I modified a very old one,witch has very thick jaws) and hammer
the spanner from above.
It is not left hand thread, but conventional.
Be sure to do it up tight again when you have done, because it holds on the
stub axle and hence front wheel!
Chris P DOC UK
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