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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Rough idle and hard starting.
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
2. Re: Rough idle and hard starting.
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
3. Re: Temp Sensor - how to test?
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
4. Re: Temp Sensor - how to test?
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
5. Re: Oil filter and cross reference info
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
6. RE: Oil filter and cross reference info
From: "Doc" <doctor280@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: torsion bars & stolen cars- Now Torsion bar I.D.
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
8. Re: Bad Week
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
9. Alternator and Coolant questions
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia@xxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Advice on D I'm looking into
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia@xxxxxxxxx>
11. Delorean Advice
From: csher52552@xxxxxxx
12. RE: Welding my rusted frame
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Restoration Update
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Rough idle and hard starting.
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Oil filter and cross reference info
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
16. A great day with my "D"
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Rough idle and hard starting.
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
18. Oil Filter photos and parts
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Oil filter and cross reference info
From: "Flash66" <flash66@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: Alternator and Coolant questions
From: Dmc3360@xxxxxxx
21. RE: Delorean Advice
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: Delorean 1:18 model
From: P12C16@xxxxxxx
23. Re: Delorean 1:18 model
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
24. RE: Re: Delorean 1:18 model
From: "Matt Spittle" <mds328@xxxxxxx>
25. EUROFEST 2001
From: ROBLAMROCK@xxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 22:35:11 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Rough idle and hard starting.
Payne, Make sure the Idle speed motor connector is pluged in good and
everything is making contact. No broke wires, so on. That's the first thing I
would do. The car will have this sympton if above is not working properly.
The next thing is vacuum.
John hervey
www.specialTauto.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 03:41:15 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Rough idle and hard starting.
The symptoms sound like an ignition problem. When you "revved up" the
engine it temporaly cleared the fouled plug. I would look for a bad
ignition wire, worn spark plugs, cracked or tracked distributer cap.
If it has been a while it probably needs a tune-up.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Payne" <bpayne@xxxx> wrote:
> Today I went for a nice long drive in my D, a favorite hobby
nowadays. It
> had been functioning flawlessly all day until I pulled into a store
parking
> lot and it began to idle really rough. I parked, and when I came
out of the
> store it wouldn't start. A passerby suggested that I floor it and
then try,
> and that actually worked. It started right up and the idle smoothed
out.
> After I drove it again the idle became just as rough and seemed to
be a
> couple hundred rpms lower than normal. The car is driveable, just
not
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 22:36:38 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Temp Sensor - how to test?
Eric, I would just replace it. But you can hook it up to an ohm meter and
watch it in hot water.
John hervey
www.specialTauto.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 03:57:31 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Temp Sensor - how to test?
Before you go tearing things apart make sure the wire going to the
sensor is still attached! The sensor is located on the front of the
right cylinder head and the wire should be green/blue. If all of the
other gauges are working it is unlikely the problem is in the dash.
The temp sensor has a low failure rate so the most common thing is a
wiring problem between the gauge and the sensor. It is very easy to
knock things loose in the front of the motor because it is so tight to
work in there. Refer to Wiring Diagram section 2-C+D. The gauge is
#275 and the sensor is #183
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, E Grauff <datamonk@xxxx> wrote:
> My temp gauge has stopped working. I'd like to see if it is the
sensor or
> somewhere in the wiring. Does anyone know how to test the sensor?
I
> looked through the manual, but all I saw was how to replace one . .
.
> Thanks
> Eric
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 02:58:55 -0000
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Oil filter and cross reference info
Mike, Be carefull. I would use a filter made for the De Lorean/PRV6
engine. Not the generic application off the shelf type. The 72150
Bosch was made for the De Lorean/PRV6, back pressure, fit, so on. You
can see on my web site. www.specialTauto.com. You might find them at
any auto parts store that carries Bosch.
John Hervey
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Mike Cutting" <mcutting@xxxx> wrote:
> [MODERATOR'S NOTE: The subject line of this post was modified from
it's original to be more descriptive of the content.]
>
>
> >I need to know what oil filters Fit The
> >car and if I could go to my local parts store for the louvre
>struts?
>
> i believe that the oil filter from a vw rabbit will do the job and
as for
> the sun-shade struts, i am not sure if they or original or not but
the ones
> that came on my car are from a lada.
>
> there is a cross reference chart for parts available however, it is
not
> considered reliable. you are best to buy your parts from a
recognised
> delorean parts dealer.
>
> :)
> <=-mike-=>
> 11434
> www.nt.net/~mcutting
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 08:55:57 -0400
From: "Doc" <doctor280@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Oil filter and cross reference info
A FRAM PH2870A is perfect
-Paul #16811
________________________________________
The fit maybe is perfect, but the Fram filter does not have the valve that
keeps the oil from draining back into the pan. This will cause a dry start
every time you start your engine. Not something I would want.
Robert Starling
Vin#05252
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 03:34:57 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: torsion bars & stolen cars- Now Torsion bar I.D.
After a phone call to Darryl he made me realize that the unsplined
ends of the torsion bars ARE different. The bar for the driver's door
has a hex on the end and the bar for the passenger door has a square
end. Not only is it now easy to identify but in the wisdom of the
origional engineering of the car it would be impossible to mix them
up. Since I had never had removed both at the same time and had them
side by side I never noticed the obvious difference.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
-- In dmcnews@xxxx, Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxx> wrote:
> > What is even more important is that there is a "left" and
> > "right" hand to torsion bars. If you were to put it on the wrong
side
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 04:05:34 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Bad Week
Look for a problem in the cold start-warm-up systems. Refer to D:01:08
through :11. You will probably trace the trouble to the Control
Pressure regulater. Before you replace it check the electrical
connection to it and make sure it is getting power. Check that the
plugs for the cpr and cold start valve were not mixed up.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "J Rowe" <rowejj@xxxx> wrote:
> It's me again, I have another question for all of you. I had my
car out about a week ago and
> drove it for about 30 minutes or so and came home. The next day I
went out to get in it and
> it had no electrical power at all, I got that fixed a few days
later. Now for the new problem.
> I decided I'd go ahead and get the car out yesterday but it wouldn't
stay running right after
> starting. It'd run for about 5 seconds if I'm lucky and die. I was
able to keep the car running if
> I kept giving it gas but as soon as I'd let off the gas it would
then die. Where should I start?
> Cold Start Valve? Thermo Time Switch? Maybe a vacuumm Line?
>
> Thanks in advance...............Obviously still
learning.......Jason #5903
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 21:26:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Alternator and Coolant questions
Hey list.. i've been gone for awhile, real busy!!!
Time to get back to what matters though and get the
Delorean ready for driving.. it sux have 70-80 degree
weather here and having the D sit in the garage.
After replacing my tankzilla, my alternator went out
(no relation, just figures after I can see how far I
can drive, I can't drive)...
It's the alternator... I talked to someone and they
told me that the lightbulb in the dash for the
battery, if it burns out, the actual voltage gauge
won't work on the dash.. is this true?
Secondly - I'm going to be making the purchase of an
alternator from PJ Grady.... I originally wanted to
keep original delorean oem parts, but I dont want to
replace it and just have it go out again...
here is my question, I looked at the alternator in it
(its the dulcier (sp?)). It looks like there are two
real fat red cables going to it, and attached to a nut
on the alternator... and I have a black wire dangling
that has a little silver cylinder on it (DMC says its
just a noise filter, so it wouldnt affect charging).
Here is my question... I have a PEP boys mechanic who
said he would put the PJ grady alternator on for me...
here is my question... I will not leave the car at a
non-delorean dealership (and DMC and PJ Grady, and
DMCJoe are the only ones I know of), so that leaves me
hiring mechanics to come to the house and do work...
Is the delorean alternator as standard to put in as a
regular say GM alternator?
On my grand-am the alternator just have a plug that
goes in it, the Delorean has cables... and I heard
something about having to hook a special wire to the
dash board light...
If I give this pep-boys guy (far from an expert, but
he does change altnerators) an alternator for the D,
will he be able to change it, or is it more involved?
Secondly, anti-freeze leaks out of the front of my D
from somewhere... any place I should look? I dont see
a radiator up there.. it doesnt over heat.
Third - If you are a Delorean mechanic (DMCJoe???),
and want a free expense paid trip to New Mexico, AND
be paid towork on my car, if anything else goes wrong
with it after the alternator and the anti-freeze leak,
I am considering paying someone who knows the cars to
come out and just fix everything that can go wrong.
I cringe at the thought of shipping the car - its in
perfect shape and my luck I'd get a trucker transport
like the one that moved us here from North Carolina
that busted our big screen TV because he was an idiot.
Mike
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 20:46:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Advice on D I'm looking into
[MODERATOR'S NOTE: One good way to get a feel for current DeLorean prices in a fluctuating market is to monitor the cars for sale listed on the DMCNews web site as well as the listings in Hemmings. Prices vary a lot and generally depends on many factors including geographical location, etc.]
That's high...
I paid 16.5 for my 81, it has 4000 miles, mint
condition, down to no butt creases in the leather
seats, not a scratch or ding on it... I would say it's
showroom new...
I have a dilemma, I dont want to put miles on the
car.. ugh, so I am looking for a second one...
Mike
vin855
Or maybe I got a good deal, not sure :)
--- "Aaron C." <slider_ten@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
>
> Hello,
>
> I am looking into a Delorean I saw listed online.
> I took a look at it
> today and it seemed to be a really good deal. I
> wanted to know the general
> idea from you owners to see if I'm making the right
> choice by loooking into
> this particular one.
>
> It's an '81 with 63,000 miles and it's an
> automatic. Body is in great
> condition with only a ding or two and clean as all
> hell. The binnacle is
> cracked a bit on top. Also the torsion bars need
> replacing, which the guy
> says will cost only $50 a pair. I tried the windows
> and they work and are
> aligned and so are the doors. No problems 'cept
> they won't stay up cause of
> those bars.
>
> I took a drive with the guy and the car started
> right up and ran smooth.
> He's the original owner with all the paperwork and
> it just passed NYS
> inspection two days ago. Original everything in the
> car and all updates
> except the tires and the windsheild which was
> replaced by PJ Grady. The
> asking price is $16,500.
>
> Opinions? I'm trying my best to know as much as
> possible, but I know you
> guys can help. Anything I should look out for?
> Thanks alot guys.
>
> -Aaron C.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________
>
> Have you moved into the Net City yet? Come see your
> new favorite
> neighborhood!
>
> Your Net City.Com
>
> http://www.yournetcity.com
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
> http://explorer.msn.com
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting
> policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 16:48:05 -0000
From: csher52552@xxxxxxx
Subject: Delorean Advice
I am restoring a delorean (vin 2349)that I have had about 6 months.I
plan on using it as a daily driver.I have the engine and trans. out
of the car.I had the engine rebuilt which was probally a waste of
money after see the inside.(has about 40,000 miles)My question is
since I have the engine and trans out what else should I replace.The
clutch has been replaced and looks in good shape.The slave cylinder
doesn't leak but I'm considering replacing it and getting a ss
braided line. I'm also thinking about replacing the water pump and
hoses.I would appreciate any suggestions or
comments. Thanks Charles 2349
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 10:31:47 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Welding my rusted frame
Remove the fuel tank and drain the lines. Better safe than sorry.
Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031
-----Original Message-----
From: flash66@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:flash66@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2001 3:24 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Welding my rusted frame
My
question to the group is ...
I am a little worried about using my air cut-off wheel tool and mig
in this area since the fuel tank is right behind this member. Sparks
will be a flyin. I think it will be fine to do since there is a
barrier of the back of the member between where im cutting and the
fuel tank. But I just wanted a second opinion before I start cutting.
I Don't really feel like blowing up this weekend (laugh) . Any
comments would be appreciated.
-Paul #16811
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 12:04:30 -0400
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Restoration Update
njp548@xxxxxxx wrote:
> If you have personally restored your car (Dave Stragand...Mike
> Sturba...Steve Rubano....me....anymore??) and are interested in showing it
> off to the crowd in Memphis, then please e-mail me personally. The only
> requirements for your car to be in this section is that you had to have
> separated the frame and the body to restore the car..thats all :). The
> reason for this is to show everyone that a frame off restoration on these
> cars IS possible, and it might persuade someone in getting a car thats been
> neglected and to restore it themself.
Indeed it is possible, Nick -- and congratulations on beating me to the finish line. =)
For those of you with web sites detailing your efforts, I have created a "side ring" to the Delorean Webring -- the Delorean
RESTORATION web ring. Anyone with a site chronicling their efforts may join by going to
http://nav.webring.yahoo.com/hub?ring=thedeloreanresto&id=1&hub
-Dave Stragand
VIN #05927
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 10:57:34 -0700
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rough idle and hard starting.
Okay, I have an update on my problem. When I would give it gas, the engine
would kind of stumble a little bit and then rev. It was smooth as long as I
was giving it gas, and would drive perfectly. It seemed to have all it's
power, just would keep dying at idle as if it were idling too low. I
thought it may be an ingnition problem, but everything seems to be firing
right when I'm driving. So what would cause hard starting and a rough idle
when warm? I pulled one of the spark plugs yesterday and it wasn't worn at
all, blackened, but not excessively charred. The plug had a silvery-gray
liquid around the threads, not like motor oil, possibly anti-seize compound?
Today I started the car, it fired up first crank without giving it any gas.
Sure, it idled a little rough, but it always has when cold. I let it warm
up and drove for a few minutes. After driving it idled smoothly at 600 or
so RPMs with minimal vibrations. I'll just wait and see what happens
tomorrow when I drive to work. Where is the location of the idle speed
motor? I'll check all the connections and clean everything up.
Thanks for everyone's help! I want to get my baby running normal again.
payne
#2975
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 18:00:52 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Oil filter and cross reference info
SUBSTITUTE AT YOUR OWN RISK! Not too long ago James Espey had some
filters cut open. The differences are great. In general the parts sold
by the Delorean venders are of higher quality than the "will fit"
parts that you can obtain localy. Usually you will know when you will
need an oil filter so there is plenty of time to order one. They also
supply the copper gasket that should be replaced for the drain plug.
IMHO we owners should purchase the parts we need for our cars from the
venders who make a living keeping the supply of parts available from
the door pistons which have to be specially manufactured to the oil
filters you might be able to get localy. Only through the business
that we generate are the Delorean venders able to continue to source
parts that are no longer manufactured. Take for example the new door
handles. No owner or club could afford to have them made. The sales we
make with the venders goes toward this effort including oil filters.
You could complain about the high price of parts but think where you
would be and if you would even have your Delorean if many of the parts
were not available at all!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Doc" <doctor280@xxxx> wrote:
>
> A FRAM PH2870A is perfect
>
> -Paul #16811
> ________________________________________
>
> The fit maybe is perfect, but the Fram filter does not have the
valve that
> keeps the oil from draining back into the pan. This will cause a dry
start
> every time you start your engine. Not something I would want.
>
> Robert Starling
> Vin#05252
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 14:16:23 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: A great day with my "D"
Hello all!
Yesterday I got my car back from the shop it had been at for the past 2 weeks
for some major service since it had finally gotten to the 30.000 miles after 20 years.
They replaced a lot of things on the engine and adjusted everything properly.
I also had them replace my Cat with a pipe, to get the exhaust less restrictive.
Since I live in The Netherlands this is allowed. I haven't really driven it a
lot yet,
but I can allready feel the difference: the car sounds somewhat throatier and
runs MUCH smoother now.
Since there was a special event for hadicapped people today, the Truck Tour
Tilburg (TTT)(Tilburg is a city I live nearby) I decided to go take a look with
my "D".
The TTT is an event in which handicapped people are invited to come ride in a
big truck end take a tour around the surrounding area. This year it sported 250
Truck in 4 groups of about 65, with several motorcycleclubs as entourage.
I parked alog the side of the road facing the aproaching trucks, put up the
doors and allmost instantly got a crowd around the car, BOY do I LOVE this! I
got a totally new remark too:
someone called me Luke, I asked him why and i got his answer: he ment Luke
skywalker, since I also flew an X-wing! VERY original to hear, I've gotten quite
used to the BTTF-remarks...
After the last group of trucks I joined in and drove along for several miles,
a lot of people were waving and staring at me even more than they were at the
fully loaded Kenworth trucks (those are really not that common over here) and
Harley Davidsons in front of me.
The day is only half way yet and it's allready been great!
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
check out the Delorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 18:15:34 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Rough idle and hard starting.
Earlier I suggested an ignition problem. Is the rough idling affected
by moisture? Is it worse on wet days? Another possability is a dirty
or bad fuel injector. All 6 fuel injectors must be very close to each
other in pressures and spray or you will not have a smooth idle. I
still think the main area to attack is the ignition system first.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Payne" <bpayne@xxxx> wrote:
> Okay, I have an update on my problem. When I would give it gas, the
engine
> would kind of stumble a little bit and then rev. It was smooth as
long as I
> was giving it gas, and would drive perfectly. It seemed to have all
it's
> power, just would keep dying at idle as if it were idling too low.
I
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 12:30:14 -0500
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Oil Filter photos and parts
Photos of the filters are here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/files/Oil%20Filters/
James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company
Houston, Texas
281/568-9573
800/USA-DMC1
http://www.delorean.com
> From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
> Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 18:00:52 -0000
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Re: Oil filter and cross reference info
>
> SUBSTITUTE AT YOUR OWN RISK! Not too long ago James Espey had some
> filters cut open. The differences are great. In general the parts sold
(SNIP)
> filters you might be able to get localy. Only through the business
> that we generate are the Delorean venders able to continue to source
> parts that are no longer manufactured. Take for example the new door
> handles. No owner or club could afford to have them made. The sales we
> make with the venders goes toward this effort including oil filters.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 15:16:40 -0400
From: "Flash66" <flash66@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Oil filter and cross reference info
Sorry bout that , I should have clarified. Cross the fram ph2870A to a
purolator with the valve or any other filter with a valve in it .
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doc" <doctor280@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 8:55 AM
Subject: RE: [DML] Oil filter and cross reference info
>
> A FRAM PH2870A is perfect
>
> -Paul #16811
> ________________________________________
>
> The fit maybe is perfect, but the Fram filter does not have the valve that
> keeps the oil from draining back into the pan. This will cause a dry start
> every time you start your engine. Not something I would want.
>
> Robert Starling
> Vin#05252
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 14:49:50 EDT
From: Dmc3360@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Alternator and Coolant questions
In a message dated 4/22/01 1:57:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
iqintermedia@xxxxxxxxx writes:
> Is the delorean alternator as standard to put in as a
> regular say GM alternator?
>
I have the PJ Grady Alternator on my car as well. It works great.
Installation is very simple, but the best thing to do if you have a question
when installing it is to call Rob and ask him. I am sure he will be more
than happy to help you install it over the hpone, especially since its one of
his products.
Gary Gore
Activities Director
DeLorean Mid Atlantic
VIN 3360
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 14:10:55 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Delorean Advice
You really do need to install the ss braided clutch line. The OEM plastic
line will swell when it gets hot and you will not be able to cycle the
clutch. If the cooling lines have not been changed recently, you should
change them. Check your fuel accumulator and filter, also the fuel lines
from the tank. Install the SS coolant bottle if you still have the plastic
one.
Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031
-----Original Message-----
From: csher52552@xxxxxxx [mailto:csher52552@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 11:48 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Delorean Advice
I am restoring a delorean (vin 2349)that I have had about 6 months.I
plan on using it as a daily driver.I have the engine and trans. out
of the car.I had the engine rebuilt which was probally a waste of
money after see the inside.(has about 40,000 miles)My question is
since I have the engine and trans out what else should I replace.The
clutch has been replaced and looks in good shape.The slave cylinder
doesn't leak but I'm considering replacing it and getting a ss
braided line. I'm also thinking about replacing the water pump and
hoses.I would appreciate any suggestions or
comments. Thanks Charles 2349
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Message: 22
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 15:36:00 EDT
From: P12C16@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Delorean 1:18 model
Hey List,
Does anybody know ANYTHING about when this model is set to come out??? A
while ago there was something about it, but I haven't heard anything since.
Thanks,
P12C16
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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 15:05:50 -0500
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delorean 1:18 model
I spoke with the guys at Sunstar last month, and they were still
experimenting with different methods of replicating the brushed stainless
finish. They were still shooting for a release in June/July.
James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company
Houston, Texas
281/568-9573
800/USA-DMC1
http://www.delorean.com
> From: P12C16@xxxxxxx
> Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 15:36:00 EDT
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Re: Delorean 1:18 model
>
> Hey List,
> Does anybody know ANYTHING about when this model is set to come out??? A
> while ago there was something about it, but I haven't heard anything since.
>
> Thanks,
> P12C16
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Message: 24
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 17:01:39 -0400
From: "Matt Spittle" <mds328@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Delorean 1:18 model
Originally, on www.diecastmuscle.com they had the car listed to come out in
June of 2001, but somehow between then and now the car was pushed back even
further to Sept of 2001. I believe I read previously on the DML that the
company (Sunstar) was having difficulty reproducing the stainless steel
panels and was consulting with Lee Seiler. I surely hope this is the last
delay, as I have had the car pre-ordered since December of 2000.
Matt
-----Original Message-----
From: P12C16@xxxxxxx [mailto:P12C16@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 3:36 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: Delorean 1:18 model
Hey List,
Does anybody know ANYTHING about when this model is set to come out??? A
while ago there was something about it, but I haven't heard anything since.
Thanks,
P12C16
Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 25
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 17:23:52 EDT
From: ROBLAMROCK@xxxxxxx
Subject: EUROFEST 2001
Registrations continue to arrive. Just a reminder that this is the last week
for postal registrations for the event! Forms must reach Joan Trustcott in
Santa Barbara before April 27. Thereafter you can only sign up on-line up
until May 10.
http://www.delorean-owners.org/events/eurofest2001reg.html
The Europa hotel is busy but not completely booked up so they will accept
further bookings for any latecomers.
Eurofest begins in a months time and preparations for the 20th birthday are
almost complete. I took delivery of two original DeLorean factory Tellus
Carriers last week...
Looking forward to meeting many of you next month.
Very best wishes,
Robert Lamrock
Eurofest 2001 Organiser
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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