[DML] Digest Number 423
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[DML] Digest Number 423



Title: [DML] Digest Number 423

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There are 22 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

      1. Re: battery drain/gauges
           From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
      2. Re: co mix screw
           From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
      3. Value of Painted DeLoreans
           From: sean_dmc1@xxxxxxxxxxx
      4. Re: 5-speed vs. Automatic
           From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
      5. Re: 5-speed vs. Automatic
           From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
      6. Automatic D's
           From: madmap70@xxxxxx
      7. Re: Stephen Arrington
           From: rbrogren@xxxxxxx
      8. Re: DeLorean Body Stripes
           From: Noah <sitz@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
      9. Re: DeLorean Body Stripes
           From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
     10. Re: Found good gas cap replacement part -- NOT
           From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
     11. Re: Rob Grady's new shocks
           From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
     12. Hood question
           From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
     13. GOOD experience with Battery
           From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     14. Re: battery drain/gauges
           From: rbrogren@xxxxxxx
     15. Re: Value of Painted DeLoreans
           From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
     16. Re: Value of Painted DeLoreans
           From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
     17. Re: DeLorean Body Stripes
           From: Bob Brandys <oehcs@xxxxxxxxx>
     18. Re: DeLorean Body Stripes
           From: delorean_pilot@xxxxxxxxx
     19. Re: Found good gas cap replacement part
           From: Josh Weader <weader@xxxxxxxxxx>
     20. Re: Found good gas cap replacement part -- NOT
           From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
     21. Thanks to David Santos
           From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     22. Thanks list, but please...!
           From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>


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Message: 1
   Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 18:09:07 -0000
   From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: battery drain/gauges

The first thing to check is to make sure the switches on the doors
still have the little rubber boots on the plungers on them. In many
cases the boots get brittle and break or just fall off and then the
plunger is not moved all the way when the door is closed so the lights
never go off.(including the 3 on the edge of each door just in case
you have the front and rear courtesy lights off). To test this theory
just remove the wires to the door switches and see what happens.
Another area is all of the diodes in the courtesy light circuit. If
one shorts out it will cause a current drain. Make sure the lighter
isn't stuck.
Load test a fully charged battery.(Sears will do it for free!) Clean
all of the large, current carrying connections. Check the alternater
output. The fact that the gauges "don't settle down" has nothing to
due with current draw, they are off when the ignition switch is off
and their position is normal. You might consider installing a master
switch. Bypass the clock so it still works, then when you go to shows
and leave the doors open the battery doesn't go dead but you still
have your presets and the correct time.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews@xxxx, eurojet@xxxx wrote:
> I am finding that when I don't drive my D and let it set for two
> weeks that I need to jump start it. I have an Interstate battery
> which is pretty new. My other cars don't have this problem. Also,
> when I shut off the key some of my guages don't settle all the way
> into their resting positions. Should they all go down or do some
stay
> up like the fuel gauge and tach? Sometimes they'll go down all the
> way and then go back up. Could they be draining the battery in these
> positions? What's normal? How do I fix it?
> Fil Vigil
> 6232




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Message: 2
   Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 11:24:52 -0500
   From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: co mix screw

David,

The CO adjust screw in a conical head with a 3 mm Allen fitting. To block
the hole use anything that will seal the hole, golf tee, machine
screw,dowel, etc..

"We're here to help you"

DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>

----- Original Message -----
From: <Delorean17@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 6:42 PM
Subject: [DML] co mix screw


> Hello,
>     I have been working on my project car for some time now and havent
been
> able to figure out its odd idle and poor acceleration problems. The
frequency
> valve is working properly so I thought the problem may be related to the
> intake system.
>     I thought it might be a good idea to check the co levels and adjust
the
> screw as necessary.  I removed the intake(both halves) and found that the
> metal ball(plug) that covers the hole was missing(nice sized vacuum leak I
> guess).  It also looks like the screw is in as far as it can go.  I am
> guessing this could be my problem although I dont know for sure.  Where
can I
> buy one of these plugs at?  also, what type of head is on the co mix
screw?
> you cant really see it through that little hole.
>
> Thanks
> David





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Message: 3
   Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 17:28:37 -0000
   From: sean_dmc1@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Value of Painted DeLoreans


In looking at getting another car, what is the value of painted
deloreans? I have found a nice delorean, but it is painted black. How
much does this devalue the car...not being original and stainless.
Any info would greatly help! Thanks again!

Sean Spurlock




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Message: 4
   Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 17:46:40 -0000
   From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: 5-speed vs. Automatic

Clutch cables? There are no cables on the clutch system at all, it's
all Hydraulic. Also you wouldn't have any slave cylinder problems if
the fluid is regularly changed every 2 years, just like you have to
do on your brake system (like in any other car also).

The only disadvantage I see with the manual is stop and go traffic
(all that shifting) but then again, on the open road it's a blast to
drive ;).
Also one other thing, the plastic clutch line that goes from the
master clutch cylinder to the slave is very poor. After shifting a
few times and the fuid starts to watm up, the tube tends to "expand"
leading to some very minor shifting problems. Replace it with a
Stainless Steel braided line and problem solved :).

As for the Automatic, yes very poor computer governors and low
pickup. Other than that, the transmission itself is very reliable.
Most automatic transmission "deaths" on the D are from the Faulty
Computer.

Steve

--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Scott Cagle" <sharkywtrs@xxxx> wrote:
>
>
>
> Pluses: No freezing clutch cables, no slave cylinder problems
>
> Minuses: Lower pickup speed, faulty computer governors.  That's
about it.
>
> Scott
> #16738
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
   Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 18:21:17 -0000
   From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: 5-speed vs. Automatic

The preference of an automatic to a manual is mostly driver
preference. If you are going to be in a lot of traffic and use the car
regularly an auto is a better choice. (especially if it's stop and go
on hills!) If it's a toy car for weekends and shows and for pure
driving enjoyment most would prefer a manual. Automatics are more
expensive to repair but can last longer than a clutch which is less
expensive to replace but now we get into driving skills(a clutch could
last 100,000 miles). If you want to beat up on the car a manual is
stronger and will take more abuse and be cheaper to maintain. An
automatic makes driving more convenient. A Delorean's selling price
does not seem to vary much as to either auto or manual as long as you
compare equal condition.(It might limit your market with a manual
though, some people do not know how to drive a manual, my wife
included).Each has some mechanical quirks but they tend to cancel out.
The manual gets better gas mileage than the auto.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Sean Spurlock" <sean_dmc1@xxxx> wrote:
>
>
> Group,
>
>       I sold my car, 81 with 5-speed and I loved it. What is the
deal with
> the automatics. I have never known anyone that has owned one! I am
thinking
> about buying another car, and cannot decide on trans. type. Can
anyone give
> me some straight forward pluses and minuses? I would really
appreciate it!
>
> Best Wishes,
>
> Sean Spurlock
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com




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Message: 6
   Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 13:23:40 -0500
   From: madmap70@xxxxxx
Subject: Automatic D's

While we are on the subject of 5-speed vs. automatics, I recall may of the problems discussed with the computer gov. with the automatics.  Are there remedies that can be taken to prevent these problems from happening?  I also recall discussion a while back on a possible "Transzilla" fix.  Any updates on this or is it still in the works?

Mark D.



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Message: 7
   Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 12:50:27 EST
   From: rbrogren@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Stephen Arrington

Regarding the book "Journey into Darkness". The John Z connection is a bit
hazy in the book, they had never met except once in the courtroom. Arrington
was a navy frogman and Vietnam vet that got involved 'small time' with dope
in the US, busted and got trapped (?) into drug trafficing by Morgan Hetrick
who was later trying to turn government witness by fingering celebrities. In
the Epigraph he claims to be a codefendant with John Z, but the connection is
via Hetrick and not given much coverage. 
The book is interesting reading, particularily his years in prison and his
road to redemption, including being chief diver for the Costeau society.
Roger Brogren

>>>>>>>>
Hi everybody,
check out this link about a book called "Journey into Darkness - The
fall guy in the world famous John Z. DeLorean drug trial"
by Stephen L. Arrington
http://www.drugsbite.com/pages/journey.htm
Has anyone read this book, or does anyone know how this man was
involved in that mess back in 1982? No reference seems to be made to
this man in John DeLoreans autobiography, or any other book I've read.
It's another one that can be added to the bibliography list at
dmcnews.com anyway!
Best wishes,
John Dore, Ireland.
>>>>>>>
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 8
   Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 14:59:00 -0500 (EST)
   From: Noah <sitz@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Body Stripes

On Wed, 21 Feb 2001 delorean_pilot@xxxxxxxxx wrote:

> I'm thinking about producing a run of "exact" reproductions... Anyone
> with ideas about how to do this or who would want to participate in
> this little project, send me an email. Also, do you think they would
> look good in RED, BLUE or ORANGE? I think it might be a fun way to say
> hello.

I've got one of the stripes as well (I'm the guy who got the one off ebay
the other week).l I've got a contact over at 3com I'm working with to try
and gets this reproduced. I'll keep at it unless someone else is closer to
getting it done.

Noah Robin
#2867




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Message: 9
   Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 15:13:33 EST
   From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DeLorean Body Stripes

Hello List,
    Someone has already started to re-manufature the stripes.  They look
exactly like the original and are made of the same material.  I believe they
are around $200 per set.  You can email the producer at
Rustproof@xxxxxxxxxxxx  He is a great guy!


later
David



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Message: 10
   Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 14:57:49 -0500
   From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Found good gas cap replacement part -- NOT

Kevin,

I don't like the Stant #11810 because it has a venting pressure relief
spring-loaded diaphragm.  Both the locking and non-locking OEM caps do not
vent at all.  I bought the same Stant #11810.  Without taking it out of the
package, I pressure tested the diaphragm using air.  I found that it leaked
at pressures well below 1 lbs psi.  The pressure was so low that I quickly
ruled it out as an acceptable cross-reference considering that the OEM caps
(particularly the non-locking variety) can hold several lbs psi.  If any
vapors are going to escape from the tank, then you want them venting through
the vapor recovery system rather than wasted through the cap.

If you keep smelling fuel, then don't rule out that it could be coming from
your new #11810.  Before I modified by Stant #11623, it had the SAME venting
spring loaded diaphragm as your #11810.  It caused my car to stink like gas
really bad -- even to the point of making me sick.  On short trips or with a
mostly full tank of gas, it didn't bother me.  But when the tank was less
than half full, the fuel in the tank would heat up from being circulated
through the fuel distributor and also from having heat from the radiator
fans blowing on the tank.  At lower fuel temperatures, there won't be enough
pressure to vent through that cap.  But once the fuel gets hot enough, then
you will have problems.  The hot vapors come up through the cap, cool and
then since they are heavy, they drop right into the intake of the a/c system
stinking your car's interior up.  I suggest you plug the vent hole on that
cap or buy an OEM cap from one of the vendors.

A local friend bought a new cap from PJ Grady.  It is non-locking, totally
sealing and has a number stamped in it that indicates it was manufactured in
the early '80s, so we think it is new old stock.  It has a black plastic cap
with a handle/ridge in the center.

Keep us posted about how things work out for you.

Walt    Tampa, FL

-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Creason <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Walt- I also got a Stant, but it is #11810; it's not fancy but it is a
pressurized cap and fits snug and needs to jerry-rigging.





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Message: 11
   Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 12:54:38 EST
   From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Rob Grady's new shocks


   
Dear DML,

    I just wanted you to know what a fantastic experience I had in New York
last week. I was at PJ Grady DeLorean, Long Island, NY AKA...DeLorean Heaven
(read on).
    I wanted to share with you my thoughts on how well Rob Grady's famous
Green DeLorean, sounds as well as handles. And some of the new products and
kits that he is offering to the DeLorean market.

    First a little background.  I was impressed with Rob and his family &
staff when I first meet them in the early 1990s. At that time and for some
time, I wanted to buy a DeLorean, but I had no clue what to look for when
buying a car.  
    After many disappointing encounters with butchered DeLoreans and some
intimidating people within the DeLorean circle, I made an appointment to meet
with Rob Grady. I found out through word of mouth (at a DOA event) that Rob
was the only original full service DeLorean dealership still in operation. 
When I arrived at his shop, my jaw was on the floor!  Years of people telling
me that parts and service were not available, DeLoreans were not a good car,
all of the myths and misnomers about the DeLorean were squelched the instant
I arrived in... DeLorean Heaven!

     Rob took the time from his busy schedule to show me his facility, meet
his staff, drive and explain the working of a DeLorean. I was not only very
impressed with Rob and his staff, but also how busy they were. (and still
are).
     As Rob and I drove around and talked, I explained to him that his car
was the first well tuned and cared for DeLorean I drove.  How the other
DeLoreans were (many were neglected) and how I thought they were a little
faster and better handling (as most of us do).
     Rob told me that he was working on his personal DeLorean, the Green
DeLorean. He went on to say he was developing a simple kit that he wanted to
offer to increase the handling and performance of the car. Rob was working on
a Rear and Front spring lowering kit in his green DeLorean for prototype
testing at that time. (early 1990s)

        Last week, Rob showed me the New Front suspension Spring Kit and
Front and Rear Shock Kit custom made for the DeLorean.  Rob further explained
that only the front spring height needed correction, (only the front was
raised at the factory) and the rear spring kit he was developing was a little
too low for his taste.
     Rob explained how they were made, the geometry of the set up and how
well it improves the ride and handling of the car. The engineering and the
manufacturing of the shocks and springs comes from one of the best
manufacturers of shocks and springs. Definitely high quality and lots of
attention to detail.
     For testing purposes, Rob had several (1/2 a dozen or so) DeLoreans
fitted across the country with prototype shocks and springs. Rob wanted the
testing of the kit to include different climates and road conditions.  The
shocks and springs went through a one year testing period across the United
States with no reported problems. The settings and specifications for the
shocks were finalized, and the green light was given to start production.

     As a former motocross racer I know the importance of a good shocks and
springs. I noticed how well they were made, and after doing some reading I
knew what to look for in the springs and shocks and these definitely have
them. I could see that these new springs could take a beating with no
problem. I also like the fact that the shocks are totally rebuildable.

      The new exhaust kit for the DeLorean makes impressive performance and
sounds with the custom exhaust manifolds, and free flow muffler (sounds like
a Porsche 930 turbo). The engine has more pep and a confident throaty sound
from the car.  Again high quality and serious attention to detail.
     The new free flow exhaust at highway speeds around town and while
shifting, definitely kept me well informed what the engine was doing and how
well the engine was performing. When we were driving enthusiastically the new
free flow exhaust sounded just right and didn't seem obnoxious or too loud. 
As the Rpm's were climbing in the DeLorean the exhaust hung right in there,
the exhaust note climbing to just the right pitch of a well made European
car.  (I remember Rob's exhaust design and prototype for the DeLorean back in
1995.) At this point I was ready for a serious drive with the new components.

    When I was offered to drive the Green DeLorean with the new shocks, front
springs and exhaust kit, I jumped at the chance.  However, I wanted a ride in
his beautiful Lotus Esprit s4S first.  We decided to start with the Lotus and
finish up the day with the Green DeLorean.  I have been in some older 1970s
Esprit S2 and 1980s and pre 1993 (before GM) Lotus Esprits S3 before, so I am
familiar with older Esprit's performance and handling.
     The Lotus Esprit s4S has unbelievable performance with handling to
match. The handling in the Lotus feels very sophisticated and exceptionally
engineered. I can understand why John DeLorean chose Lotus to develop the
DeLorean.  I paid particular attention to the ride and comfort as well as the
lack of "sway" of the Lotus in the curves.

     The way the car stayed flat, not leaning or rolling into the curves,
proves that Lotus cars are one of the worlds best engineered sports cars
around. I am proud Lotus engineered the DeLorean. The Lotus begged to be
pushed (fast) in the long stretches of road, it also wanted and did eat up
the curves in the road. Again the lack of body roll was amazing thanks to
factory research and development. Something the DeLorean really didn't
have...or did it?

    This weekend was the second time in 5 years that I had my jaw drop to the
floor in a DeLorean! (This is where it gets exciting.)

    We put the Lotus away and the Green DeLorean was waiting for us. Rob had
the Rear and Front spring prototypes replaced with the New Front spring kit
he is now offering and stock rear springs. Rob drove first and I was in the
passenger seat.

    As we went into some S type curves, my first thought was how much of a
vast improvement the car handles from the stock set up. The DeLorean felt
light on its feet while driving.  Rob took the car and went into tight curves
at 45 to 50 and the car stayed almost perfectly flat!  Totally Impressive!
The stock DeLoreans mild understeer was not evident to me in the Green
DeLorean.  Rob's new suspension has very much improved the stock ride and
handling to a more acceptable sports car level. The Green DeLorean has become
a First Class Tuned Performance DeLorean.

    Rob let me drive and seriously get into the turns and curves. I could
immediately feel more control in the Green DeLorean over the stock DeLorean
front suspension. The stock DeLoreans seem to sway and roll in sharp curves
and turns (the underseer) and generally feels heavy, or overweight.
    As I drove, I thought of the Lotus Esprit characteristics and how the
Green DeLorean are similar.  They have more similarities than differences.
The way the new DeLorean suspension is set up and constructed, it feels well
made like the Lotus.  Someone driving a DeLorean for the first time would
think, this supercar has excellent handling!

Sincerely,
Mike Pack
VIN 3713



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Message: 12
   Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 21:31:10 -0000
   From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Hood question

Does anyone know the guage or thickness of the Stainless steel for
the Hood (luggage compartment)? I am going to attempt to find a GOOD
Stainless Steel welder to weld up some of the tiny holes that were
drilled into it by a previous owner (they installed a hood scoop). I
know that some people on the list recommended me to find someone who
was expiereinced with SS and that they used a TIG welder. I really
want to save this hood since it is excelent condition (no dents) and
it's a hood flap one!

Thanks,

Steve




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Message: 13
   Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 23:22:03 +0100
   From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: GOOD experience with Battery

With all these posts on jump starting and all I thought I'd share my good experience:

My car sat in a barn at my brothers' in-laws (to be) for over 5 weeks, waiting
for my garage to get finished (It's actually a "Cartainer"; a rebuilt freighting
container, more info on the web soon...) so I could park it nearby.

With all the talk about battery drain and such I had parked the D in such a way
that I could reach the enginebay with my other car for a jump start AND I had a
couple of cables ready.
None of this was neccesary! The alarm disengaged without any trouble and the car
fired right up on the first try!

I don't know what type of battery I exactly have, but I do know it's a VARTA
with top-posts, one of the previous owners put it in there with a couple of
post-adapters for fitting the wires.

Actually the only problem I had was that my Left Rear tire had a slight pressure
loss, but this hasn't reoccurred yet (I drive it week(end)ly now...).

That's about it, just some happy things I wanted to share  ;-)

JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000

check out the Delorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
------------------------------

PS. The "CarTainer"-info will go on-line within a few weeks; I still have to
build the site.



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Message: 14
   Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 18:18:48 EST
   From: rbrogren@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: battery drain/gauges

Fil Vigil,
Some of the gauges on the D are a bit unusual  in that they don't go to Zero
with the ignition off. This is normal and I'll let some of the experts
respond to that issue.
I had (have?) the same problem with my car; a few days in the garage and the
battery was way down. I received several suggestions from the list, but none
of them solved the problem. With everything "off" I still had a couple of
Amps drain between the negative battery terminal and ground. Pulling every
fuse in sequence didn't isolate the sneak cirquit.
Coincidentally I had ordered a "battery saver" switch from DMC Joe (this
switch is used to cut out the interior lights when the doors are left open),
and that helped! The car is snowed in for the winter, it is about 6 weeks
since I installed the switch (and left it in the off position) and in that
timespan the battery has dropped from 12.6 to 10.3 Volts (just checked).
Before the 'battery saver' switch it would have dropped that much in 2-3
days. Obviously I still have a problem but I have isolated one of the
culprits to the interior light cirquit. Where in the cirquit is another
question!

It is my impression based on what I have read here that it is impossible, or
at least impractical, to attain zero leakage in the electrical circuits of a
D. Except by using a battery cut-off switch! That is next on my list, but I
would like to track down the worst of the power leaks before I give up.

Keep us posted!
Roger
1074



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 15
   Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 00:53:26 -0000
   From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Value of Painted DeLoreans

In general with all things being equal a painted Delorean is worth 1/3
to 1/2 the value of an unpainted one. The problem is that you cannot
tell if and how many panels are damaged, the s/s is non-magnetic. So
you assume they are all bad but maybe not. At the very least to strip
the paint and regrain is labor (read time) intensive. One of the
distiguishing features of the Delorean is the finish so without it
it's value is diminished.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxx, sean_dmc1@xxxx wrote:
>
> In looking at getting another car, what is the value of painted
> deloreans? I have found a nice delorean, but it is painted black.
How
> much does this devalue the car...not being original and stainless.
> Any info would greatly help! Thanks again!
>
> Sean Spurlock




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Message: 16
   Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 21:25:58 -0000
   From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Value of Painted DeLoreans

In the UK about 25% cheaper for painted one's.

Chris P DOC UK

----- Original Message -----
From: <sean_dmc1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 5:28 PM
Subject: [DML] Value of Painted DeLoreans


>
> In looking at getting another car, what is the value of painted
> deloreans? I have found a nice delorean, but it is painted black. How
> much does this devalue the car...not being original and stainless.
> Any info would greatly help! Thanks again!
>
> Sean Spurlock
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




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Message: 17
   Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 17:03:53 -0600
   From: Bob Brandys <oehcs@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Body Stripes

I have seen both styles of striping on the delorean.  The bottom wide black
stripe was designed for follow the black bumper line. This is a typical
decor design that was first shown on the cover of Popular Science in 1954
and exemplified on the 92 full size Buick.

However , I found this dark semi gloss finish to visually distracting to the
stainless lines of the side of the car.

On the other hand, the upper fender light gray striping was truly and accent
to the lines of the car. The only problem was these was that they were only
visible close up. (10 ft.)  They look nice but are understated.

Accent striping needs to accent and be easily visible on the car finish.
This is where the challenge comes on the Delorean.  First, the Delorean
stainless is not a gloss finish.  This is a possible advantage to make gloss
finished striping more visible.

On the other hand, the unique brushed stainless speaks to an underlying
grain in body panels. A solid color might clash with the grain lines of the
stainless.

What would be interesting would be striping that has a grain finish in it.
This is an available screen printing image.  Further, this grain can be
finished with a transparent color.  A nice example, would be a smoke
finished transparent over a grain running parallel to the car.  This would
look like a transparent smoke strip on the stainless body!!!

Or it might even be possible to make a transparent dark smoke strip that
would still show the grain.

As for colors, this is a very difficult choice for a D since it is black and
silver grained. Complementary colors do not exists on a black and white
color wheel.

What this means is that color striping would have to be subtle.  Again a
transparent strip still showing the grain could work.  I have tried some of
the transparent color similar to overhead transparencies.  The results were
very interesting.

This lead to experimenting with the tri color sequences similar to 3 M type
striping.  A red, white and green stripe would speak to the British nature
of the car.  Read white and blue, well,,... you know.

Black parallel stripe was also interesting.

Lastly, a chrome version of the original upper fender strip  would
definitely accent the car.

Bob Brandys




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Message: 18
   Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 02:08:25 -0000
   From: delorean_pilot@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DeLorean Body Stripes

I see in another post that somebody is already in production on the "extint" wide stripes. So I'll leave this project alone too. But colors would be nice! Fred DPilot

-
-- In dmcnews@xxxx, Noah <sitz@xxxx> wrote:
> On Wed, 21 Feb 2001 delorean_pilot@xxxx wrote:
>
> > I'm thinking about producing a run of "exact" reproductions... Anyone
> > with ideas about how to do this or who would want to participate in
> > this little project, send me an email. Also, do you think they would
> > look good in RED, BLUE or ORANGE? I think it might be a fun way to say
> > hello.
>
> I've got one of the stripes as well (I'm the guy who got the one off ebay
> the other week).l I've got a contact over at 3com I'm working with to try
> and gets this reproduced. I'll keep at it unless someone else is closer to
> getting it done.
>
> Noah Robin
> #2867




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Message: 19
   Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 18:23:38 -0500 (EST)
   From: Josh Weader <weader@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Found good gas cap replacement part



> holding on to). It's just a simple black cap with the middle ridge to
> grasp and turn. No lock, nothing fancy.
> Is that original?

That's what I have on my Oct. '81...

--Josh




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Message: 20
   Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 01:01:29 -0000
   From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Found good gas cap replacement part -- NOT

This exercise is another reason to try to get the correct part the
first time from you favorite Delorean vender. An innocuous little part
like a gas cap is an interegal part of the fuel and emissions system.
By substituting what looks like the same thing can put you and your
car at risk, at the least it could cause you to fail an emissions
exam and sicken you with fumes. There is no reason to pursue the
search for a substitute when there are a sufficient quantity in stock
and probably cheaper than finding the wrong one 2 or 3 times and then
having to modify it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> Kevin,
>
> I don't like the Stant #11810 because it has a venting pressure
relief
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kevin Creason <dmc4687@xxxx>
> >Walt- I also got a Stant, but it is #11810; it's not fancy but it
is a
> pressurized cap and fits snug and needs to jerry-rigging.




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Message: 21
   Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 17:10:23 -0800
   From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Thanks to David Santos

The reference to your page on fuel adjust with a dwell meter and how to
test an oxygen sensor is very much appreciated.

Les




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Message: 22
   Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 17:21:51 -0800
   From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Thanks list, but please...!

Remember, new guys are really dumb, you need to really go back to
basics.  I found out today that I didn't need my cute little coil
springs to pop the engine cover lid, there's a spring in the latch
assembly to do that.  When I bought the car almost a month ago now, I
was told that the cover was a 2 person deal.  I thought, how dumb and
proceeded to work out my little coil spring wonderment.  I also gave the
latch assembly a shot of WD-40 and don't you know it's now perfectly
operational on it's own.  Point is I didn't know there was a spring
there, I had read postings of several other (peculiar) methods of doing
the cover by yourself so I naturally thought it was just something
strange about the car.

Anyway, thanks and keep up the good work!

Les




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