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There are 14 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Road noise
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Relay Sockets (was fires)
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Part desired... can ya help me out here?
From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. DeLorean VINs
From: BondAtomic@xxxxxxx
5. Wet Carpet
From: wmack <wmack@xxxxxx>
6. Re: Diode in Lock Module
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Re: Road noise
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
8. Re: Re:Delorean fires...
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
9. Re: Erratic Idling on warm-up. HELP.
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
10. Re: Re: Lambda System
From: "chris" <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Go Stainless @ HOME
From: "doctor who" <ohwrd@xxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Theory of operation (was Diode in Lock Module)
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
13. Help
From: spooky312@xxxxxxx
14. Dashboards and dashcaps
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 18:37:12 -0000
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Road noise
A word of caution is needed here. Do not install any materiel which
when heated could give off toxic fumes. Ordinary styrofoam can kill
you if you breath in the gases given off when it is only heated. Bad
enough you could have a fire you don't want to be knocked out from
the
fumes before you can get out of the car. On all modern cars the
materiels used in the interiors must pass certain combustion,
ignition, flame spread, and toxic gas tests. The best source for
noise
deadening materiel is Eastwood.com. They have all sorts of neat stuff
if you are into cars.The best place to start is on any large flat
surface to eliminate "booming" or the sounds of being in a drum. The
other best thing to do is to make sure all of the door seals are in
good shape to reduce wind noise. Make sure any openings in the
firewall are sealed too.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, qrorell@xxxx wrote:
> If you look inside of the front door posts of most new cars you
will
see styrafoam is used for insulation.
> It is the best and cheepest way to cut down noise. You can shape
it
any way you want to by using an electric knife. then fitting it into
the space. It can be purchased in blocks or flat sheets in any
thickness.
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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 20:41:10 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Relay Sockets (was fires)
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> At a car show a while back a vendor was selling boxes full of relay
sockets
> just like what is used in the Delorean. I should have bought
some. I
> didn't buy any because I wasn't sure if they were the right ones.
I only
> had the car for a few weeks by that time and wasn't too familiar
with it.
> Are those sockets easily obtainable or are they hard to find?
Yep - common part. P&B (now Siemens) makes sockets for the relays
(part number VCF4-1002), and socket terminals 26A1348B (14 gauge)and 26A1348C (12 gauge). They will interlock with the DeLorean relay sockets and look like the factory put them there. These are available from industrial electronics supply houses. Probably a whopping $2 each. The terminals are a few cents. Siemens also make an excellent replacement for all the factory relays except one (I don't recall which) and they only cost about $5 each. They have a much higher current rating (40A) and plug right in. See Darryl's excellent article at http://www.dmcnews.com/zine.html issue number one for more details and part numbers on the relays.
Dave
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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 11:48:44 -1000
From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Part desired... can ya help me out here?
As many of you know, I've been working on getting my car into tip top shape
since I bought it 3 years ago. I've done a lot of work to it, as well as
many customizations to it, while driving it. It has a been an extremely
pleasurable experience for me I might ad. However, I'm running into one
problem. I'm having a hard time finding a gray dashboard at a FAIR price to
put the finishing touch on my car. Mine is cracked, burnt, and not pleasing
to the eye. I'd like to buy a new one from DMC Houston, but I don't have the
$600+ for a new one. (if the price was less, I'd buy it in a minute!) So, I
was wondering if anyone had a used one is good condition. Or, if anyone had
a new one and was interested in a parts swap or something. I'd appreciate it
if someone could help me out. If they do, I'm sure I could help them in
return with something. I'm pretty competant when it comes to repairs and
especially customizations.
Well, I hope someone out there can help me. Thanks in advance.
---Dan
_________________________________________________________________
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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 16:52:33 EST
From: BondAtomic@xxxxxxx
Subject: DeLorean VINs
Couple questions:
What is the VIN of the DeLorean you could've won from Pepsi, or whatever?
What is the VIN of the car featured in the DeLorean commercial?
Hard questions, but I don't really know what you all consider hard...
John Feldman
VIN 4275
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 17:21:59 -0500
From: wmack <wmack@xxxxxx>
Subject: Wet Carpet
Everytime it rains or snows, and i take the Delorean out in it, the drivers
side carpet gets completly soaked. I looked every where for a hole or
something but i can't find anything. Any ideas?
Thanks
Willie
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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 23:57:30 +0100
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Diode in Lock Module
> I currently have my lock module taken apart to "upgrade" the internal
> relays in it. While I was looking over all of the electronics, I
> noticed a yellow diode that was looking pretty bad.
[snip]
> I am somewhat familiar working with electronics,
> so I know how to replace it if I had the proper replacement. However,
> since I'm no electrical engineer I'm baffled as to the purpose it
> serves. It is directly connected to the positive and negative inputs to
> the unit, so I'm guessing that is why it has taken such a beating.
With my knowledge of electronics I would say it's there for protection of
the other internals: it gives negative spikes a way to travel past all
other parts without doing damage...
It can also protect the internals from being wired the wrong way round
by effectively shorting out the circuit and thereby blowing a fuse,
this is the so-called "crowbar"-polarity-protection...
As I see it there are two possibilities why the diode looks fried:
-1 it took a negative current which was too high and/or too long
and the fuse didn't blow
-2 there was positive current that was too high;
higher that the threshold-voltage (the maximum pressure a one-way
valve can hold before the seals collapse to put it simple)
which simply burned out the diode.
I haven't got my original lock-module here right now, but I'll check
this weekend if there are any markings on it for identification.
Greetings and good luck with upgrading,
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
check out the Delorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
------------------------------
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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 18:10:10 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Road noise
Barry,
Although Styrofoam is widely used as weather insulation it is not a very
effective sound proffer. I can't quote you dB reduction figures for
Styrofoam at this time but I can tell you that it is a poor sound absorber
and sound barrier compared to other soundproofing materials. Fiberglass,
especially rigid board fiberglass, sound matte products, and several other
sound conditioning products (spray and paint on) will provide far better
results than Styrofoam.
In addition to my DeLorean knowledge I spent much of my carrier as a TV
Studio Design and Operations Consultant. Application of sound
proofing techniques, material application, and installation procedures were
part of my contracted services.
"We're here to help you"
Seasons Greetings!
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: (TEMPORARY)<www.geocities.com/dmcjoe>
----- Original Message -----
From: <qrorell@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Road noise
> If you look inside of the front door posts of most new cars you will see
styrafoam is used for insulation.
> It is the best and cheepest way to cut down noise.
> Barry
> 6012
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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 18:10:52 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re:Delorean fires...
Walt,
The relay sockets are available from DeLorean Services, DeLorean Motor
Company, and PJ Grady as part #100144 priced at $19.95
"We're here to help you"
Seasons Greetings!
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: (TEMPORARY)<www.geocities.com/dmcjoe>
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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 18:14:02 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Erratic Idling on warm-up. HELP.
Declan Kelly,
Your fuel injection system may be in need of a slight CO mixture adjustment.
"We're here to help you"
Seasons Greetings!
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: (TEMPORARY)<www.geocities.com/dmcjoe>
----- Original Message -----
From: Declan Kelly <Declan.Kelly@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [DML] Erratic Idling on warm-up. HELP.
> Hi All.
> When not driving my D in the winter months, I try to take it down to the
> local Dunkin Donuts for a run every Sunday (If the roads are dry). But
> lately I
> have noticed this growing problem and concern. While my D is warming up
the
> idle speed is erratic, I have noticed that the upper and lower engine
peaks
> have gotten progressively worse.
> Declan Kelly Boston MA.
> Dubliner.
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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 23:13:35 -0000
From: "chris" <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Lambda System
The IC was an LM2901 which is a comparator. 2 out of the 3 comparators used
in the ECU were not working. The car is a '83 with motorola alternator, the
battery is 3 months old. No zillas. The FV never worked since I had the car.
The car had sat for 8 years in NJ. My friend said its possible if the IC was
left in the cold and damp for a long time then had power applied to it, it
could cause it to blow.
Now i know what everyone means by being able to hear the FV!!
Chris
Vin 16327
----- Original Message -----
From: <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> I for one am very interested as I am sure other members of the list
> are as to the #'s of the ic that was bad and the replacement.
David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2000 00:37:42
From: "doctor who" <ohwrd@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Go Stainless @ HOME
Forgive me for this slightly OT post, but I found a nifty little device
while I was in the toy store (read: Home Depot) shopping for holiday gifts.
They have this section dedicated to overpriced designer paints (Ralph Lauren
$30 gallon) and nifty paint texture tools.
Among the texture tools they had this device for creating stainless steel
patterns. I looks like a paint roller except for a sponge they have thin
metal disks with spacers in between. Needless to say I bought the thing and
the instructional video. I have a bathroom that could use a little
redecorating.
cheers,
dr. c.
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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 19:40:28 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Theory of operation (was Diode in Lock Module)
I got curious and started looking at that schematic
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/graphics/lockcirc.jpg
and my OEM door lock module. I've made the following observations:
1) There is an error in Dave Swingle's schematic. The brown/slate wire at
terminal #2 should be erased from the junction linking R1 and the emitter of
Q1 and instead be connected to the junction linking R2, D3 and RL1. This
would make it match the sister circuit below it.
2) The diode D4 is also toast on my module. It melted the insulation on the
violet wire and the leads are corroded on both ends.
3) The apparent function of D4 in this circuit is to drain the battery.
Well, this isn't far from the truth. I think the designer meant for it to
protect the transistors from surges. If you are going to try to improve
this module, it would be easier to just start from scratch with a new
design. But if you really want to fix it, I would recommend (and I'm
starting to get in a little over my head here) a diode that has a high
reverse impedance and can take a forward current of 1 amp or so. A ziener
diode would be better if the avalanche voltage is well enough over 12 volts
so that it doesn't conduct normal operating voltages. But I would choose
something really beefy. It is a trade off -- the beefier the diode, the
more it will drain the battery. A better choice may be to put a capacitor
or an MOV on there if they make one that operates at a low enough voltage to
do any good.
Here is one of my typical long winded explanations. This one is a 'walk
through' on how the module operates. If you read this, you have too much
time on your hands. If you understand any of it, you are a geek. If it is
useful to you then you probably could have figured it out on your own
anyway. But it never hurts to have a second opinion.
When the 'door unlock' switch is closed, electrons come from ground through
the switch and through the brown/pink wire into the module at terminal #3.
Current flow proceeds forward biased through diode D5. From here it goes
through the electromagnet of the relay RL11 energizing it. From the other
end of the relay coil, current proceeds forward biased through diode D12 and
to the emitter of the transistor and one side of resistor R11.
>From here two things happen:
First, current flows through the transistor to terminal #4 and through the
violet wire to the positive side of the battery completing the circuit. The
transistor acts like a latching switch permitting the relay to stay
energized even when the door unlock switch is opened. This is accomplished
by biasing the transistor through diode D13 and resistor R12. Here it is
evident that the function of diodes D5 and D13 placed back-to-back are to
allow the transistor to be switched on without the door unlock switch
interfering with the transistor's bias.
The second thing that happens is that current begins flowing from ground
though capacitor C11 and resistor R11 and on through the transistor along
with the current that came through the relay coil. R11 and C11 make up what
is called an R/C timing circuit. This is a cheap simple way of making an
electronic timer. The purpose of resistor R11 is to limit the amount of
current flowing through capacitor C11 so that it charges slowly. How long
it takes capacitor C11 to charge is how long the timer lasts. Once this R/C
circuit has charged to a certain point, it upsets the bias on transistor Q11
causing it to switch off. The end purpose is that the amount of time that
this circuit is active determines the duration of the pulse sent to the lock
solenoids. The reason for diode D12 is to stop the R/C circuit from
charging through resistor R12 and to keep the battery from draining while
the circuit is inactive.
The purpose of diode D11 is to stop surges generated by the lock solenoids
from spiking through transistor Q11 and damaging it. When the solenoids are
through moving and the current applied to them is shut off, the magnetic
field set up around the solenoids' coils collapses. As it collapses, it
induces a current in the coils making them appear as very high voltage
sources in a polarity opposite to that which they originally had. Even
though they seem isolated from the transistor when the relay contacts
release, they can still zap the transistor as the contacts are letting go.
The easiest way to deal with this is to let a diode shunt it. The same
technique is also used on A/C compressor clutches.
This is my OPINION on how the 'unlock' side of the door lock module operates
based on Dave Swingle's diagram. Remember, this my opinion and I have been
wrong before. The lock side works the same way, but if you are looking at
Dave Swingle's diagram, the error on the 'lock' part may confuse you.
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 20:10:06 EST
From: spooky312@xxxxxxx
Subject: Help
I know that this doesnt have much to do with the DeLorean but hear me
out, last month my Grandfather helped to make one of my dreams come true and
I want to help make one of his come true. If anyone could tell me where to
locate '58 Chevy Impala Convertable parts for a decent price. I am on a
limited budget and I realize that this car is really expensive so I will buy
what I can for the time being. If anyone could help, it would be much
appreciated.
Thank you for your time,
Rachel
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 19:30:28 -0500
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Dashboards and dashcaps
Latest word on the dash caps is that they will not be available until
late spring, maybe May. The tooling is being done, and we expect to
see the first sample in January or so. FYI.
James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company
Houston, Texas
281/568-9573
800/USA-DMC1
http://www.delorean.com
>As many of you know, I've been working on getting my car into tip top shape
>since I bought it 3 years ago. I've done a lot of work to it, as well as
>many customizations to it, while driving it. It has a been an extremely
>pleasurable experience for me I might ad. However, I'm running into one
>problem. I'm having a hard time finding a gray dashboard at a FAIR price to
>put the finishing touch on my car. Mine is cracked, burnt, and not pleasing
>to the eye.
>Well, I hope someone out there can help me. Thanks in advance.
>
>---Dan
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