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There are 15 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Cleaning A Delorean
From: "Thomas B" <tjb229@xxxxxxx>
2. Classic Speedo possible rollback
From: cbl302@xxxxxxx
3. LockZilla (Remote)
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Hot Start Problem
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Transmission(Clutch) trouble...
From: "Nathan E. Green" <gzen21@xxxxxxxxxx>
6. Rain Leaks Pix Needed
From: paulheymeson@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
7. Re: Hot Start Problem
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Transmission(Clutch) trouble...
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
9. Re: Rain Leaks Pix Needed
From: cbl302@xxxxxxx
10. Fasteners
From: sand131@xxxxxxx
11. Re: Rain Leaks Pix Needed
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Cleaning A Delorean
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Fasteners SAFETY ALERT
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Re: Fasteners SAFETY ALERT
From: sand131@xxxxxxx
15. Re: Cleaning an Starting
From: aabclafon@xxxxxxx
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Message: 1
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 19:51:38 -0000
From: "Thomas B" <tjb229@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Cleaning A Delorean
Is it safe/effective to use Comet cleaner on a Delorean?
I use it to clean my Stainless Steel sink.
-Tom
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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 19:55:29 -0000
From: cbl302@xxxxxxx
Subject: Classic Speedo possible rollback
From: "chris" <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Cold Engine running and Speedo
Hi
When I start my DMC it runs fine, but if its been running for about a
minute and i push the throttle down it hesitates and looses power
then when the engine has warmed up its fine again. Any ideas
Also the speedo works fine but both the trip and milage counters do
not work. I checked the Lambda clock which said 74 and i have done
around 150 miles since and still says 74, but a unit is obviously 300
miles.
Any ideas
Thanks
I hate to be the Bearer of Bad News,but it sounds like someone has
played around with the mileage odometer(rollback)usually when the
speedo works fine,and the odometer,doesn't,it means that someone
pulled the odometer out of the case and physically turned back the
odometer,and did not reinstall it correctly,or used picks to turn it
back,and screwed up (broke/screwed it up)the connection between both
odometers,I had one car (a GM)that came from a rental company that
the speedo worked fine for a long time(about 10yrs) then all of a
sudden the speedo would turn 10,000 miles for every 100 miles I drove
it,took it apart and found out that it had been tampered with
(rollback).
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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 22:29:11 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: LockZilla (Remote)
Hello,
Today I finally bought a DeLorean.
It's an 81 and still has the original Lock-Module...
I unhooked the brown wire tos save my solenoids (they're still OK)
and am considering buying a LockZilla.
Can anyone tell me if the LockZilla can take an external signal
(from a car-alarm) to lock and unlock the doors?
I HAVE to put in an alarm (for my insurance), which allready has
a remote, so a LockZilla Remote would be of no use...
By studying the electrical diagram I think it can be done
(even on an original module) by letting a relay work parralel
to the door-lock-switches, but I am not sure.
Please enlighten me!
Greetings from the Netherlands,
JAN van de Wouw
Think Different... Use a Mac...
Live the Dream... Drive a DeLorean...
#05141 since today!
check out the Delorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
------------------------------
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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 21:28:57 GMT
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Hot Start Problem
Hello all,
I recently installed a new fuel pump. The car has run fine the last week,
but does have a strange hot start problem.
If I drive to town, the engine warm, then park and shut off the engine for
5-6 minutes, then the car starts right up as it should!
Then, if I drive to town, the engine warm, then park and shut off the engine
for 10 minutes + , then the car is very hard to start. I have to crank it at
least 3 or 4 times before it fires up!
Does anyone have any idea to what causes this?
I would guess that if I really had a serious hot start problem (fuel
accumulator problem), then it wouldn't even start when I parked on short
times or start at all. Point is, eventually I do get it started its just
very slow. I thinking of fuel pressure. Ideas anyone? Since the fuel pump is
new, I also doubt that it can be a leaking check valve.
Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway
VIN # 06759
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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 14:56:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Nathan E. Green" <gzen21@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Transmission(Clutch) trouble...
Hi,
On the way home from a car show today(I won 3rd place) my delorean started
exhibiting some strange behavior. I'm hoping you can help.
First off, it is an 82, 5speed is is definently a higher mileage/daily
driver vehicle. (Not sure exactly how many miles are on it--but that's
another story.
Anyways, it seems the clutch is slipping or sticking. You let the clutch
out and for a minute the revs stay higher and then a second later the revs
drop for the new gear. It does this off and on(sometimes it doesn't
occur--the car shifts fine) primarily in 1, 2,3 gears. It almost as if the
clutch doesnt disengage in the new gear after youve shifted-- as if it is
sticking and then works it way loose. The car definently shifts gears and
stays in gear--so it doesn't appear to be a tranny(gear) problem.
The obvious answer is to check the clutch fluid. I'm getting set to do
that now. I guess you use clutch or DOT3 brake fluid to refill?? This is my
first hydralic clutch car. I haven't seen any leaks so if it is low, what
happened? (Can it evaporate over time?)
Secondly(gulp), what other possibilities am I looking at. Is there
something else before I have to investigate the clutch. The clutch itself
appears solid with no problems before this. It did have a solid feel before
this problem. Can anyone help??
Thanks.
Nathan E. Green
gzen21@xxxxxxxxxx
"If my calculations are correct, when this baby hits 88mph you're gonna' see
some serious s--t"
-Doc Brown: "Back to the Future"
_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 22:02:26 -0000
From: paulheymeson@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Rain Leaks Pix Needed
Hi there you may have read about my rain leak problem.
What I need is a picture or diagram of the fiberglass front section
behind the footwell.
If anyone can help many thanks.
I have tried everything else to no avial and belive that the
fiberglass is probably double skinned and the water is filling up in
this section thus seeping through the footwell behind the pedals.
Paul Vin 741(sink on wheels) But I still love it!
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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 18:13:28 -0500
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Hot Start Problem
Sounds like the accumulator to me. My car did this last fall. Park it for
just a few minutes and it would start fine. Leave it for 10 or more minutes
and it was difficult to start.
The accumulator doesn't necessarily go bad all at once. The diaphram may
have just a small hole at this time that allows it hold pressure for a few
minutes, but gradually lose it. The problem will get worse until the
diaphram goes out completely or you replace the accumulator.
Mark N
VIN 6820
At 09:28 PM 9/17/00 GMT, Stian Birkeland wrote:
>
>If I drive to town, the engine warm, then park and shut off the engine for
>5-6 minutes, then the car starts right up as it should!
>
>Then, if I drive to town, the engine warm, then park and shut off the engine
>for 10 minutes + , then the car is very hard to start. I have to crank it at
>least 3 or 4 times before it fires up!
>
>Best wishes
>Stian Birkeland
>Norway
>
>VIN # 06759
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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 19:22:15 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Transmission(Clutch) trouble...
Nathan,
Conduct the following test to determine if your problem is related to slippage between the clutch disc and pressure plate. While driving the car at highway speed (45-65mph) in 4th gear push the accelerator to the floor while observing the tachometer. If the RPM's increase quickly with no apparent change or very little change in speed you have a worn clutch disc, pressure plate, and possibly a worn flywheel. If your DeLorean is equipped with the original clutch and has more than 60k miles on the clutch system it is not unusual for slippage to occur. You will need to have all of the clutch parts inside the bell housing replaced. Be sure to ask your mechanic to check the condition of the flywheel and replace the crankshaft lip seal.
The hydraulic clutch system which, by the way uses DOT 4 fluid, effects shifting performance not acceleration.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Nathan E. Green
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx ; nocoke2@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx ; WINGD2@xxxxxxx
Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2000 5:56 PM
Subject: [DML] Transmission(Clutch) trouble...
Hi,
On the way home from a car show today(I won 3rd place) my delorean started
exhibiting some strange behavior. I'm hoping you can help.
First off, it is an 82, 5speed is is definently a higher mileage/daily
driver vehicle. (Not sure exactly how many miles are on it--but that's
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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 23:22:25 -0000
From: cbl302@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Rain Leaks Pix Needed
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, paulheymeson@xxxx wrote:
> Hi there you may have read about my rain leak problem.
> What I need is a picture or diagram of the fiberglass front section
> behind the footwell.
> If anyone can help many thanks.
> I have tried everything else to no avial and belive that the
> fiberglass is probably double skinned and the water is filling up
in
> this section thus seeping through the footwell behind the pedals.
>
> Paul Vin 741(sink on wheels) But I still love it!
Have you caulked up/checked the rivetnuts in the fiberglass,each
rivitnut that was installed,was basically a hole in the body,if any
of the bolts on the top of the fenders are loose or missing(that is a
hollow area where the wiring harness for the lights pass thru),and
leads directly to the drivers footwell,that area where the top of the
fender bolts to is also a channel area for rainwater,so that if there
is any kind of problem(cracked fiberglass,bad or missing
rivitnut,poor fiberglass repair,ect,ect,then the chances are that the
water might be entering the footwell, where the harness exits the
passenger compartment(you will see a big hole in the verticle part ot
the drivers side footwell,well up the footwell,Hope this helps.
Claude
000570
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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 20:33:39 EDT
From: sand131@xxxxxxx
Subject: Fasteners
I just finished my fuel system clean out that turned into a front grounding
point cleaning and master cylinder pressure bleeding ordeal. All turned out
well but it occurred to me that our stainless steel and fiberglass beauties
sure were shortchanged by the installation of steel fasteners. While on my
project I found rusted fasteners on the 3 access plates in the trunk and on
the fuel tank cover as well as others. I went to the friendly hardware man to
buy SS replacements. WOW expensive! So I researched and bought in bulk
(Cheaper)I replaced all access screws, frame mount bolts, Hinge nuts,
washers, Tank cover bolts and assorted bolt nuts and washers in the trunk
with stainless. I have enough left over to make up 2 more sets. E mail me if
interested in buying them. Sand131@xxxxxxx
BTW 1606 is now running well again and a bit closer to all Stainless.
Ralph
VIN 1606
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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 00:34:33 -0000
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rain Leaks Pix Needed
Paul,
Right behind the pedal box (where the pedal box and fiberglass body
mate up), there is a large hole. When I took my pedal box out there
was alot of black RTV on the pedal box to the fiberglass making a
seal. If that RTV seal is broke or missing, you will get water into
your car as you drive in the rain. I can take some pics for you if
you like since my car is apart and show you what I mean. Email me
privatley if you want.
Steve
www.dmcman.homestead.com
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, paulheymeson@xxxx wrote:
> Hi there you may have read about my rain leak problem.
> What I need is a picture or diagram of the fiberglass front section
> behind the footwell.
> If anyone can help many thanks.
> I have tried everything else to no avial and belive that the
> fiberglass is probably double skinned and the water is filling up
in
> this section thus seeping through the footwell behind the pedals.
>
> Paul Vin 741(sink on wheels) But I still love it!
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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 01:05:38 -0000
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Cleaning A Delorean
I do not recommend using comet. If you look at the label neither do
they. If you are not very careful you will damage the graining.
Depending on what you are trying to do there are better ways to clean
the car. Start by washing with a mild car wash soap. Dry the car and
carefully examine the car panel by panel to determine if there are
any
defects. Minor scratches can be worked out with sandpaper starting
with #180 working to about 220. Any deep scratches, dents, dings etc
will require some metalworking. After any repairs Scotch-Brite and
the
s/s cleaner sold by the Delorean venders will put the finishing touch
on the car.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Thomas B" <tjb229@xxxx> wrote:
> Is it safe/effective to use Comet cleaner on a Delorean?
>
> I use it to clean my Stainless Steel sink.
>
> -Tom
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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 02:09:26 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fasteners SAFETY ALERT
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, sand131@xxxx wrote:
>So I researched and bought in bulk
> (Cheaper)I replaced all access screws, frame mount bolts, Hinge
nuts,
> washers, Tank cover bolts and assorted bolt nuts and washers in the
trunk
> with stainless
BE CAREFUL if you do this. Stainless fasteners can be made with the
same strength ratings as regular steel, but many aren't. Be
especially careful if using this for structural purposes (Suspension
bolts, for example)
ALSO make sure that you use anti-seize compound on everything.
Especially on any of these that you screw into the aluminum RivNuts
all over the body (access panels for example). If you don't, they
weld themselves in together in the presence of moisture due to a
reaction between the stainless and the aluminum (ask me how I know).
Next time you try to take it apart, the RivNuts will just spin in
place and you'll be looking for your Dremel tool. And then a RivNut
tool.
BTW - A great resource for this is Totally Stainless at
http://users.supernet.com/totallystainless/, they specialize in
stainless hardware and have a great catalog. Be sure to read the web
page section on Safety!
They also have a T-shirt that really goes with the DeLorean.
Dave Swingle
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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 22:25:10 EDT
From: sand131@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Fasteners SAFETY ALERT
In a message dated 09/17/2000 9:12:35 PM Central Daylight Time,
dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
<< Especially on any of these that you screw into the aluminum RivNuts
all over the body (access panels for example). If you don't, they
weld themselves in together in the presence of moisture due to a
reaction between the stainless and the aluminum (ask me how I know).
Next time you try to take it apart, the RivNuts will just spin in
place and you'll be looking for your Dremel tool. And then a RivNut
tool. >>
OK
Dave you said to ask.--- Why are SS worse than Std Steel in alum Rivenuts?
My original ones had two stuck. Why are stainless worse? I replaced no
structural bolts so as far as I could see strength is not a consideration.
Ralph
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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 22:37:44 EDT
From: aabclafon@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Cleaning an Starting
Hi group,
I have 2 questions:
1) Its recommended to use scotch-brite pads on the "D", how rough of a
scotch-brite pad can you use. I have seen different ones.
2) Today I started my "D" ( last time was 1 1/2 weeks ago ) I turned the
key
and nothing happened. It would not turn over at all. The radio, lights,
buzzers
etc all work, so its not a drained battery. Have about 6-7 turns of the key
it turned over and started immediately. Turned it off and it started right
back
up. I washed it afterwards and put some stainless steel cleaner on. I
figured
it might have been upset with me for not taking him out for a ride sooner.
Thanks
Dave L.
2578
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