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There are 12 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: automatic trans swap with manual trans
From: cbl302@xxxxxxx
2. Re: Stiff Steering
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
3. Re: "Clunk" in turns
From: "Don Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: "Clunk" in turns
From: CIAsleeper22@xxxxxxx
5. More mystery wires/motorola alternator
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
6. Re: "Clunk" in turns
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywtrs@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Hong Kong Owner?
From: "ian" <ian@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: "Clunk" in turns
From: BLuDSuKKuR@xxxxxxx
9. New DeLorean Manual Series
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
10. Re: No Air Conditioner
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: "Clunk" in turns...trailing arms?
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
12. Finishing touch to your Gullwing collection
From: cbl302@xxxxxxx
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Message: 1
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 20:33:55 -0000
From: cbl302@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: automatic trans swap with manual trans
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, Bob Brandys <oehcs@xxxx> wrote:
> > WE CONVERTED MY 5 SPEED DELOREAN TO AN AUTOMATIC ABOUT 3 YEARS
AGO.
>
> THE ONLY THING THAT WE HAD TO MAKE WAS A SPECIAL BRACKET TO HOLD THE
> AUTOMATIC SHIFTER. THE WIRING WAS ALREADY THEIR.
> IT WAS NOT CHEAP TO DO THIS, BUT I REALLY LIKE THE WAY THE
AUTOMATIC CAR
> DRIVES VERSES THE STICK.
Did you leave the clutch pedal,or did you switch the pedal box to a
automatic pedal box.
Claude
000570
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 16:06:46 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Stiff Steering
Joe, et al -
I have the factory original tires with vary little tread left. The car has
almost 12K miles on it now. I got under the front and greased the king pins
top and bottom. I found fittings for those, but the tie-rod ends have no
grease fittings. My experience with other cars is that the manufactures
often get cheap and don't use steering parts that can be greased. I've
heard of people taking them apart, drilling/taping holes and adding grease
fittings or replacing the whole piece with a higher quality new piece that
uses a grease fitting. Do you have any opinion on doing this with a
Delorean?
So far, the only parts that I am aware of that use grease fittings on the
Delorean is the king pins (one on top, one on bottom for the front wheels.)
Are there any others that I am missing, such as on the rear some place?
Apparently the suspension on my car got some front-end damage before I got
it. The right front rim has a rub on it like it struck a curb pretty hard.
It did not dent the rim, but it took some metal off of it. There is some
similar damage to the other side, but not near as bad. The guy who runs the
shop who is selling me after market rims told me that my OEM rims are easily
repairable. It involves building up the scratched area with welding and
then machining it back down flush with the rest of the rim. Any opinions on
having this done?
I put about 2500 miles on the car before I realized how far off the
alignment was. With the steering wheel straight, the left front was fine,
but the right front was toe out several degrees and both front tires were
wearing heavily on the outer edges. I re-aligned the front myself by
adjusting the right wheel only to bring it in to match the 3 degree toe-in
of the left wheel. I drove all the way to 'A day in the doors' and back
without any noticeable wear on the tires, so apparently I did a good
alignment job. I intend to have the whole car professionally aligned once I
get the new tires/rims put on with new front springs & shocks. I need to
get busy and order the shocks from Marty I suppose. I'm not too crazy about
Marty's method of attaching a slip ring to the rear shock body, but at least
what he has is adjustable. As you know, Byrne Heninger's rear shock kit
isn't adjustable, and being the Libra that I am, I like adjustment and
balance. The driver's side of my car sits about 1/2 inch lower than the
right, so I want to be able to correct for this if necessary when I replace
the rear shocks. Do you have any ideas or suggestions? What would cause
this? Uneven rear springs? Would it be beneficial to put my old OEM front
springs on the rear and raise it up using Marty's adjustable shock collars?
The dealer whom I bought the car from told me a long story about how some
photographer wanted to use the car in some crazy BTTF photo shoot. The
dealer couldn't legally rent the car as a driver, so the only way he would
let the photographer use the car is if it were towed everywhere it went.
The price paid for a few days rental was $1000. It sounds like a tall tale
to me, but that's what I was told by the seller.
Anyway, I'm wondering if with all this towing, front end misalignment and
front rim damage that perhaps I could have a damaged steering rack. From
the external symptoms, it would make sense that any damage to the rack is
one of stretching or elongation of about 1/4" on the right side. The tie
rods look nice and straight. After I adjusted the alignment, there wasn't
much thread left exposed on the right tie-rod. I didn't adjust the left.
It seems to me that any deformities that could have happened are hidden in
the steering rack where they are not visible. Should I take this apart and
check it? And if so, what should I look for?
Also, I sometimes get steering wheel pulsation on heavy breaking. I'm
suspicious that one or more of my break rotors are warped. Do you think
this problem could be related to my suspension damage? I'm wondering if I
should have the warped rotors turned or if I should replace them. The
photocopied '94 vintage D1 catalog that came with the car has various break
parts colored with a highlighting marker. I'm curious to call them with my
VIN and ask what they know about the car, but from past experiences,
unfortunately, I know better than to even try.
I have an idea for an interesting 'stiff steering' diagnostic. What do you
think of putting the front end of the car in the air, pulling the center hub
off the steering wheel and turning the wheel by the center nut with a torque
wrench to measure exactly how much force is required to turn the wheel. It
might be useful for other people to have knowledge of average steering
stiffness measurements to know if their car is harder to turn than average.
What do you think? It could also be a good way to measure front end play.
Apparently, my car has none. If there isn't enough resistance to measure
with the car in the air, then how about parked on loose sand. I don't think
concrete would give a good standard of measurement.
Spoken like a true Libra,
Walt Tampa, FL
Delorean mechanic apprentice
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 14:21:15 -0700
From: "Don Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: "Clunk" in turns
Josh,
That is exactly the way the Lotus was: It took about .2 G's of lateral
force to produce the clunk and they hade to alternate between right and left
turns. Two consecutive turns did nothing. FYI
Don
----- Original Message -----
From: "Josh Haldeman" <haldeman@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2000 10:12 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] "Clunk" in turns
> Mike,
> I'm fairly sure it's coming from the front. The noise eminates from
the right front wheel when I turn left, and the left when I turn right. I
doubt it
> would be the trailing arm bolts because I have Bauerle's add on for that
problem and I had him check the condition of the bolts last time I took it
in.
> (about a year ago) I will check them out again though, just to be safe.
> I think Stian may be correct in suspecting the half shafts because it
does not make the clunking noise on the second turn if I make two
consecutive lefts
> or two consecutive rights.
> Well, either way I'll have the front end apart this weekend to install
new shocks, so I'll check it all out then and let you know.
> Thanks for everyone's help with this problem,
> Josh
>
>
>
> Mike Thomas wrote:
>
> > Josh,
> >
> > Are you sure the shifting is not in back? I think I would check my
trailing arm bolts. I had one fail on the highway and believe you me it
ain't pretty.
> >
> > Mike
>
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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 18:24:44 EDT
From: CIAsleeper22@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: "Clunk" in turns
I have the same "clunk" problem myself. Ive only owned my oct. 81 for about 4
months now and I have not put many miles in it yet, however when I make a
turn, say a turn thats a bit quicker than a normal turn, but not too harsh, I
hear a clunk somewhere in the BACK of the car....as if maybe the battery was
shifting around or something but I'm not sure what it is. Could this be a
loose trailing arm?
Justin
vin 5172
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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 19:18:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: More mystery wires/motorola alternator
I just got a motorola alternator to replace the broken 'iskra' (sp?) one
that the previous owner put in...
The motorola alternator has two contacts marked "b+", the post for the brown
wire bundle, and a male slide connector. What is the male slide connector
for? Do I have to connect this to +12v or is it there for convenience?
The reason I ask this is because the old alternator did not have a slide-on
conector like the one on the motorola, and I can't seem to find any wire
that could/should connect to that place on the alternator...
I DID find, however, that there was a short brown wire coming out of the
wiring harness just above the alternator, and figuring that brown was +12v,
and B+ was +12v, they were supposed to be connected. Having connected this
wire to the alternator made the idle speed regulator whir, fuel relay to
click at 1Hz, the ignition resistances get very very hot, and something to
buzz that seems to be underneath the air intake. What have I done?
What is that brown wire for? Is something supposed to be connected to that
b+ slide-on terminal? What was buzzing under the air intake?
Jim.
1537 - Electrical train wreck
thanks to those who helped resolve my other mystery wires.. FYI, the big
brown wire in the relay compartment was for the door locks, and somehow I
really don't want to connect it...
Oh ya, also, my fuel relay clicks at 1Hz when the ignition is on, is this
normal?
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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 19:37:33 -0400
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywtrs@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: "Clunk" in turns
Justin-
I had the same noise coming from mine at one time. Turned out the trailing
arm shield was loose and banging against the suspension.
Scott
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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2000 08:22:39 +0800
From: "ian" <ian@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Hong Kong Owner?
Kevin and DMLers,
Always happy to meet DMC tourists/business-folks passing through HongKong.
I will be leaving for the Mainland on Saturday afternoon for a project in
Tianjin, N.China ... back Monday evening. Would be great to meet up and talk
some DMC-talk ... I can even show you my recently acquired RHD 'barn-find'
DMC.
Cheers, IAN
***************
----- Original Message -----
From: Kevin & Ann Miller <kamiller@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2000 2:43 PM
Subject: [DML] Hong Kong Owner?
> Sorry for using the list this way, but I am trying to locate the owner
> who lives in Hong Kong. I had his email address but misplace it.
> If you are reading this please email me privately, I will be in your
> town this weekend and would like to together and talk about deloreans.
>
> Kevin Miller
> vin 4556
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 20:21:52 EDT
From: BLuDSuKKuR@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: "Clunk" in turns
CIAsleeper22 if you here the clunking noise in the back it could be bad
news....check your trailing arm bolts....if it is not then it could be a prob
with rear hub bearings or the constant velocity joints in your rear drive
shaft...just wanted to warn you because this can be a very dangerous
problem...u might want to have in checked out..
matt
5510
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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 21:42:39 EDT
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: New DeLorean Manual Series
Just before the big Cleveland show I began compiling source material for
revised, expanded and updated versions of the DeLorean workshop manual, parts
manual, tech manual, and owner's manual, plus a new resource directory.
You're gonna love it when you see it! These will be print copies, not just
internet files. Kinda hard to drag your computer and monitor under the car,
as someone said recently.
I've also been in contact with DMC Joe and others about the project, and the
response has all been very supportive! Target date is 2001, in time for the
20th anniversary year of the marque. If you have an area of expertise or
experience you'd like to contribute, please e-mail me directly at
"Deloreanstuff." The rest of the address is @aol.com.
I have a lot of project lines going forward at the same time on this, but one
of the most crucial elements to the success of the project will be the
participation of the largest single group of DeLorean experts in existence...
the DML! (Thank you, James Espey!)
As the project continues to move forward, I'll pass along more information
thru the DML. And I'll need your help.
For starters... Don at the DeLorean Motor Center once published a set of
emergency jump start, bypass and diagnostic procedures. He says they're on a
website or two somewhere and I'm welcome to use them. Anyone know where to
find them? Don said he could dig out his original papers, but I'd rather ask
my fellow DML'ers first, rather than tie Don up in the office going thru
files. Can anyone help me with this?
Thanks in advance!
-Wayne
"The new DeLorean Manual Series project"
vin 11174
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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 20:15:31 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: No Air Conditioner
Dale,
92 psi is the correct rest pressure for an R12 system. Your problem is in
the electrical side of the AC system. If you run a #12 jumper wire from the
battery to the single pink wire on the compressor, this will energize the
compressor clutch and run the compressor. Once you've determined that the
compressor is working, work back through the electrical harness to where it
goes through the firewall, I don't remember which color connector is the AC
connector, work some WD40 in the connector terminals. Next check the low
pressure switch behind the right front wheel and clean those contacts with
WD40.
That usually cures any AC electrical problems.
Dave Sontos
VIN 02573
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Schaub" <daleschaub@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2000 1:45 AM
Subject: [DML] No Air Conditioner
> My air conditioner just quit working. The pressure is the same at both the
> low pressure side and high pressure side at 92 psi. I do not hear the A/C
> cycling as I normally did. Any ideas?
>
> Dale Schaub
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 21:42:36 EDT
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: "Clunk" in turns...trailing arms?
In a message dated 9/14/00 2:32:25 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
haldeman@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
<< I doubt it would be the trailing arm bolts because I have Bauerle's add on
for that problem >>
What type of add on does Dave Bauerle have for trailing arms...?
-Wayne
11174
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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 23:25:30 -0000
From: cbl302@xxxxxxx
Subject: Finishing touch to your Gullwing collection
I have posted a small file,in the egroups file,for that person who
has a Delorean and a Bricklin,and always wanted a Mercedes Gullwing
to complete his (or her) collection of the big three gullwing cars
this is a one of a kind car and it is priced in the same price range
as a Delorean,and very well done.I have nothing to do/gain from
this,just want to see this one of a kind car go to someone in the
Delorean group.
Claude
000570
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