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There are 11 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. winshield wiper problem (help!)
From: "Aaron Knoll" <aaron@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: winshield wiper problem (help!)
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Dead Fuel Sender Available
From: uncleump@xxxxxxx
4. Red Coolant
From: Jim Reeve --Ultra-- <ultra@xxxxxxx>
5. Re: Delorean Overheating (almost)
From: joelpash@xxxxxxxxx
6. Re: Delorean Overheating (almost)
From: joelpash@xxxxxxxxx
7. comparison
From: calfunca@xxxxxxx
8. Fuel gauge Points Straight Up Again!
From: paulheymeson@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
9. Re: Re: Delorean Overheating (almost)
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
10. Re: Fuel gauge Points Straight Up Again!
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
11. Re: Red Coolant
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 18:42:23 -0000
From: "Aaron Knoll" <aaron@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: winshield wiper problem (help!)
After picking up my wonderful new D yesterday, I'm facing my first
problem: it seems that my wipers & washer have decided not to work
anymore. I've checked the fuse and ground cable and they both seem to
be OK. I also checked the owners manual (to make sure I was doing it
right), shop manual, and the back issues of the list to no avail.
Does anyone have any ideas? Normally, I'd just apply a coating of
RainX and never use them, but I'm running out of days in my 10-day
New York State temp inspection and the wipers have to work for my D
to pass.
Thanks!
Aaron Knoll
# 3396
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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 20:07:02 -0000
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: winshield wiper problem (help!)
The wiper system is pretty straightfoward to troubleshoot. Check the
fuse with a voltmeter not just with your eyeball, check all plugs and
be alert to the possibility that the plugs may fit together well but
a
wire clip has backed out and is not making electical contact. Don't
take any ground connection for granted, remove and clean and replace
making sure that there is no paint under the connection. The wiper
motor could also be the problem, there are brushes in it and if it
hasn't been used in a long time they could be "hanging up" inside. A
quick fix is just to tap the housing with a hammer to shock the
brushes loose and make contact.This is assuming that the motor is
getting voltage. Since you said both the wipers and washer aren't
working check things in common such as power source, grounds, and
especialy the wiper switch and plug to it. Don't forget the Fall
Foliage Tour in October since
you are in N.Y. you might not be that far away, we would like to see
you attend.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Aaron Knoll" <aaron@xxxx> wrote:
> After picking up my wonderful new D yesterday, I'm facing my first
> problem: it seems that my wipers & washer have decided not to work
> anymore. I've checked the fuse and ground cable and they both seem
to
> be OK. I also checked the owners manual (to make sure I was doing
it
> right), shop manual, and the back issues of the list to no avail.
> Does anyone have any ideas? Normally, I'd just apply a coating of
> RainX and never use them, but I'm running out of days in my 10-day
> New York State temp inspection and the wipers have to work for my D
> to pass.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Aaron Knoll
> # 3396
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 16:15:35 EDT
From: uncleump@xxxxxxx
Subject: Dead Fuel Sender Available
Someone was looking for a used/dead fuel sender.
I have one available. Contact me privately.
Matt
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 15:44:12 -0500
From: Jim Reeve --Ultra-- <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Red Coolant
I remember a while ago that somebody here was experimenting with the new
red colored antifreeze. Well the car I picked up yesterday seems to
have this red coolant. My temp gauge usually sits right at the mark
between 100 and 220. Not very much deviation. One of my plans for this
winter was to fully dismantle and clean all of the cooling pipes and get
all new hoses and a metal header bottle. With this red coolant do you
think I should do this or not? I dont know any history of my car
because it came from a dealer who would not disclose the previous
owner's identity. So far I have driven the car almost 200 miles since
picking it up yesterday and I have not had one problem. On another
cooling note, I have heard many people talking about replacing the
cooling fan circuit breakers with 40 amp units. Since I have not
purchased any manuals yet, could someone tell me where they are? Are
they under the car, or are they in the electrical compartment behind the
passenger seat? This is just one of those things I want to check out
before anything happens. Thanks.
One more side note to anyone in or around Minnesota. The fall gathering
on Sept. 17th is getting closer, so anyone who has not yet signed up
please do so. It is going to be a lot of fun! Email Nick Kemp
(nkemp'at'pclink.com) to sign up and get directions. If you would like
to join the caravan, email me (ultra'at'isd.net) for directions to the
starting point.
--
Jim Reeve <Ultra>
'81 DeLorean-#6960
http://www.dmcultra.com
AIM-Ultra2169
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 20:48:08 -0000
From: joelpash@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Delorean Overheating (almost)
My normal operating temperature is not 220. This is just where the
fans turn on. It turns on at 220 and turns off at the one quarter
mark (I forget what that temp is.) I was just saying that it may not
be unreasonable to have the engine running at 220 sometimes.
Correctly if I am wrong, but I don't think it is unreasonable to run
at this temperature during certain occasions (for example if it is
hot out and you are in slow traffic.) My engine temperature
constantly fluctuates between 110 (I think) and 220. This should be
normal.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxx> wrote:
> Joel,
>
> Yes, 220 is in the middle, you should see a legend next to the mark
that reads "220".
>
> The normal (operating) water temperature of the engine is 194 to
205 degrees F.
>
> If your normal operating temperature is at the 220 F mark you need
to have your cooling system serviced ASAP.
>
> "We're here to help you"
>
> DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxx>
> Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: joelpash@xxxx
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Friday, August 25, 2000 2:09 AM
> Subject: Re: [DML] Delorean Overheating (almost)
>
>
> Is 220 when the needle is right in the middle? If I remember
> correctly, this is where it is supposed to run. The engine is
> designed to run hot. It is possible to set the fans to come on
at a
> lower temp, but then the fans will not last as long.
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxx> wrote:
> > Brian,
> >
> > There are three possibilities for high engine temperature:
> >
> > 1. DEFECTIVE COOLING FAN TEMPERATURE SWITCH.
> > 2. TRAPPED AIR IN THE COOLANT LINES.
> > 3. LOW COOLANT LEVEL.
> > 4. DEFECTIVE THERMOSTAT.
> >
> > "We're here to help you"
> >
> > DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxx>
> > Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
> >
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 20:52:07 -0000
From: joelpash@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Delorean Overheating (almost)
DMC Joe:
I was originally responding to this question below. I think that the
fans coming on at 220 is normal. If you are in stop and go traffic,
the car will probably always stay around 220. As soon as you start
driving fast, the car should cool down. So I don't think it would be
necessary to bleed the system or do anything in the case mentioned
below. Am I correct in my thinking? Because if not, I have a
problem too.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, lovdmc12@xxxx wrote:
> I have a question about this overheating thread. My DeLorean has
never
> overheated, but the fans don't come on until the temperature gauge
is almost
> to the 220 degrees mark. It's never gone above that.
>
> Living in South Carolina, it gets very hot here in the summer.
It's not
> unusual driving in stop and go town trafic with the A/C running for
the gauge
> to stay near the 220 mark. Is this ok? I've bled the system, but
that
> shouldn't be a problem since the fans are running because the A/C
is on.
> I've installed the fan fail bypass, so that's not a problem
either.
>
> Brian
> VIN 1597
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 18:50:37 EDT
From: calfunca@xxxxxxx
Subject: comparison
Hello List:
I am 14 so it will be a while until I drive a D but I was wondering about
this. I have driven two cars one of which when I am legally able to drive I
will own, it is a Mercedes-Benz 1977 300D (Diesel) the other is a 1997
Cadillac (I hate the Cadillac). The Cadillac has a horrible turning radius
and accelerates way to fast (in my point of view). If any of you list members
have driven the Mercedes you know they have a great turning radius and they
aren't terribly fast (I'm a speed demon but I don't want to kill myself). I
was wondering if the D has a great Turing radius and if it didn't accelerate
very fast like the Mercedes.
Lundin
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2000 00:57:36 -0000
From: paulheymeson@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Fuel gauge Points Straight Up Again!
About a month ago I had a problem with the fuel gauge pointing
straight up.
After reading things on this group I took my sender unit out examined
it to find that the spring inside the sender had broken.
I ordered Tankzilla and now 4 weeks after using it,the gauge is
pointing straight up again as it did before.
When you first turn the key the gauge should go up then down as it
should re calibrate every time,mine usauly go's straight up then
stays pointing up at the 12 'oclock position.
But sometimes when I'm driving it will come back to life again,this
problem has been going on for a week now..
I have taken the sender out checked for sticking float,Made sure all
electrical wiring is ok.
Has anyone else had this problem.
Paul Heymeson
vin 741
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 22:23:12 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Delorean Overheating (almost)
According to your description it sounds as if your cooling system is operating normally.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: joelpash@xxxxxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2000 4:48 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Delorean Overheating (almost)
My normal operating temperature is not 220. This is just where the
fans turn on. It turns on at 220 and turns off at the one quarter
mark (I forget what that temp is.) I was just saying that it may not
be unreasonable to have the engine running at 220 sometimes.
Correctly if I am wrong, but I don't think it is unreasonable to run
at this temperature during certain occasions (for example if it is
hot out and you are in slow traffic.) My engine temperature
constantly fluctuates between 110 (I think) and 220. This should be
normal.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 22:29:05 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuel gauge Points Straight Up Again!
Paul,
>>From your description it appear that you have an intermittent connection between the gauge and the sender. Try this test: have an assistant observe the fuel gauge while you move the wires leading to the Tankzilla. If your problem is a bad wire or connection this well be an easy way to locate the problem.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: paulheymeson@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2000 8:57 PM
Subject: [DML] Fuel gauge Points Straight Up Again!
About a month ago I had a problem with the fuel gauge pointing
straight up.
After reading things on this group I took my sender unit out examined
it to find that the spring inside the sender had broken.
I ordered Tankzilla and now 4 weeks after using it,the gauge is
pointing straight up again as it did before.
When you first turn the key the gauge should go up then down as it
should re calibrate every time,mine usauly go's straight up then
stays pointing up at the 12 'oclock position.
But sometimes when I'm driving it will come back to life again,this
problem has been going on for a week now..
I have taken the sender out checked for sticking float,Made sure all
electrical wiring is ok.
Has anyone else had this problem.
Paul Heymeson
vin 741
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2000 22:33:28 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Red Coolant
Jim,
Go to this link
http://store.yahoo.com/dsvstore/electrical.html, than click on the electrical compartment map to receive a free downloadable color diagram of your electrical compartment. Not only will you find the cooling fan circuit breaker you will also be able to identify all of the other components in this area.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Reeve --Ultra--
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2000 4:44 PM
Subject: [DML] Red Coolant
I remember a while ago that somebody here was experimenting with the new
red colored antifreeze. Well the car I picked up yesterday seems to
have this red coolant. My temp gauge usually sits right at the mark
between 100 and 220. Not very much deviation. One of my plans for this
winter was to fully dismantle and clean all of the cooling pipes and get
all new hoses and a metal header bottle. With this red coolant do you
think I should do this or not? I dont know any history of my car
because it came from a dealer who would not disclose the previous
owner's identity. So far I have driven the car almost 200 miles since
picking it up yesterday and I have not had one problem. On another
cooling note, I have heard many people talking about replacing the
cooling fan circuit breakers with 40 amp units. Since I have not
purchased any manuals yet, could someone tell me where they are? Are
they under the car, or are they in the electrical compartment behind the
passenger seat? This is just one of those things I want to check out
before anything happens. Thanks.
One more side note to anyone in or around Minnesota. The fall gathering
on Sept. 17th is getting closer, so anyone who has not yet signed up
please do so. It is going to be a lot of fun! Email Nick Kemp
(nkemp'at'pclink.com) to sign up and get directions. If you would like
to join the caravan, email me (ultra'at'isd.net) for directions to the
starting point.
--
Jim Reeve <Ultra>
'81 DeLorean-#6960
http://www.dmcultra.com
AIM-Ultra2169
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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