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There are 14 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Strange Squeel at start!?
From: qrorell@xxxxxxx
2. Yay, torsion bars adjusted!
From: Josh Haldeman <haldeman.4@xxxxxxx>
3. One for the books
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywtrs@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. updated pics
From: "Erik Geerdink" <delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: The Journey Home...
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: The Journey Home...
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
7. Re: Question on STARTING A D...
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
8. Re: Stuck
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
9. Re: Question on STARTING A D...
From: tybeaniety@xxxxxxx
10. Putting up the DMC for sale...
From: Carson Clark <cnsandog@xxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Strange Squeel at start!?
From: danh@xxxxxxxxxx
12. Need alignment specs.
From: danh@xxxxxxxxxx
13. Re: Strange Squeel at start!?
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
14. Re: Stuck
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 23:09:47 EDT
From: qrorell@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Strange Squeel at start!?
I know this sounds to simple but check the tension on the belts. They have a
tendency to squeel when starting if they are not adjusted correctly.
Barry
6012
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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 23:55:30 -0400
From: Josh Haldeman <haldeman.4@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Yay, torsion bars adjusted!
Dear List,
I am bursting with pride and joy this evening! With the help of an
old DeLorean World, my Dad and countless employees at my local Sears
store, I was able to successfully adjust the torsion bars on my Dad's
car! WOO-HOO!! Wow, what a feeling it is to see doors that used to
droop and bonk one on the noggin constantly, now rise effortlessly into
the air and out of the way.
The previous owner had just replaced the gas struts on Dad's car and
the doors still sagged. I pulled one out and exchanged it with one on
my car just to be safe and sure enough, it made no difference. The
DeLorean World article (Volume 3 #4 Winter 1986, pg 25) made all the
difference in successfully completing this project. I will add the
procedure to my projects and maintenance page in the next few weeks for
those interested in seeing what I did.
Cheerfully yours,
Josh
VIN 5102
VIN 15964 (now with fully functioning doors!)
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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 01:19:26 -0400
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywtrs@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: One for the books
Ok guys, prepare yourself for a story to go down in history. Everyone has had the infamous "door hits the Tpanel" story, but mine goes a little further down. It started last week when my cousin opened the passenger door, and it made that wonderful "thump" before opening. 2 more times, it wouldn't open more than halfway because of how much of the door was hitting the panel. Also, the passenger side quarter panel had shifted down about 2 inches. There was something forcing it off. So, fearing losing the panel while limping back home, I forced the door up, bending the tpanel even worse, but guess what I found? The piston support bolt that SHOULD be mounted to the fiberglass body had been mounted, of all places, to the filler plate that is used to hold up the weatherstripping. This was the only thing holding the door up. Behind it, where the support brackets should be, is a very large hole. Obviously, this bracket has been torn out at one time. They've welded the bracket to two pieces of steel and bolted them to the filler plate. I'm going to try to get a good picture of this wonderful piece of craftmanship and put it in the vault for all to wonder at. How it held up this long is beyond me. So now, I have to refill the hole in the pontoon body, replace the bracket, reallign the door, and replace the tpanel. All because someone was too lazy to take the car to a fiberglass specialist. I just thought I'd pass this story along. Needless to say, 16738 will be down for a while.
Scott
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 05:26:39 -0000
From: "Erik Geerdink" <delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: updated pics
For those of you who went to Cleveland and met me, you know that I
didn't have my Delorean their :( Poor 4512 was minus an engine and
transmission due to oil leakage and overall neglect by the previous
owner. I posted pictures a while back to the vault with pics of my
engine coming out and what it looked like. I just uploaded more pics
of what my engine and tranny look like now.
http://www.egroups.com/files/dmcnews/Engine+Removal/
Make sure you look at the old pictures first to jog your memory of
what it looked like, then look at the new pics. All I have to say is:
Thank you Micah Fryman and Marty Miers for the great work so far!
I'm glad to hear that my car has become a Guinee Pig for you both :)
(my dad told me the story about cadmium plating the throttle spring)
Erik Geerdink
4512-still haven't driven my car this year :(
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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 08:12:25 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: The Journey Home...
Check and see if your car may have been lowered by the cut and swap
method. Many cars were lowered in this way, and putting the front
springs in the back tend to make the front of the car very stiff, and
the back very loose.
If this is the case, I suggest you purchase a new set of springs.
"Nathan E. Green" wrote:
<SNIP>
> go down the road. Anyways, I keep feeling the rear squat as I'm cruising on
> the highway. I thought the engine was skipping or something(but I couldn't
> hear it and it would only happen cruising). Found out about halfway home it
> was wind gusts pushing the rear wing(and the car down). DOH.
<SNIP>
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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 01:26:35 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: The Journey Home...
Your left side tapping noise is most likely a burnt #4 exhaust gasket.
Exhaust leaks sound different on different makes of cars. In the DeLorean an
exhaust gasket leak can sound very much like a valve tap.
The lack of air flow is probably a defective AC Mode Switch.
The rear wing on your DeLorean is more show than effect. When you consider
the rear mass of the car (engine, body, and frame weight combined) it is
unlikely you would feel any aerodynamic effect from the rear wing. BTW: my
"D" has a high rear wing and I have never felt any influence on the cars
handling or feel. If you notice any strange effects from the rear of the car
I would suggest you check the condition of your trailing arm bolts (parts
manual 5/3/0 #25).
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Nathan E. Green <gzen21@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, July 22, 2000 4:54 PM
Subject: [DML] The Journey Home...
> Hi folks-
> I got back home today from buying my D in Pennsylvania. All told,
> 750miles(although I couldn't tel b/c the speedometer is broken). I have
> little news, the D was cruised beautifully at 70-75mph(again estimates)
> without problems. I stopped often and checked for leaks, etc, but there
was
> none. A funny thing...my D has a rather large wing installed on it. The
> rear engine design makes the D end heavy and makes the rear end squat as
you
> go down the road. Anyways, I keep feeling the rear squat as I'm cruising
on
> the highway. I thought the engine was skipping or something(but I couldn't
> hear it and it would only happen cruising). Found out about halfway home
it
> was wind gusts pushing the rear wing(and the car down). DOH.
> OK, so I've driven the D home.It was a great deal at $8500. The car has
> rather loud valve noise from left side of block. So, I have a sticking
valve
> or valves need adjustment, etc. At worst the car will need to get a valve
> job. Ventalation system is shot. No airflow from vents, even when you hear
> the system running.(Vacum system problem??) A/C belt in rear has popped,
> although compressor seems to turn OK by hand. Speedometer/Odometer busted.
> Interior/Exterior in very good shape. Passed PA inspection so all
important
> things work. Transmission feels surprisingly firm--in rather good shape.
> Brakes tires supurb.(Both recently replaced)
>
> Car Data:
> 1982 Stainless, 5sp, Grey Int, WIDE black stripes,
> new rear louvers w/high mounted stoplight and rear wing, Alpine
stereo/cass
> installed.
> Vin#10188
>
> Sorry for so much text but I'm happy to be home with my new Delorean. I am
> finally living the dream...
>
>
> Nathan E. Green
> gzen21@xxxxxxxxxx
>
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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 01:09:04 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Question on STARTING A D...
You have a problem in the Idle Speed Circuit (workshop manual D:05:01)
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: <tybeaniety@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, July 22, 2000 5:04 PM
Subject: [DML] Question on STARTING A D...
> Hi, i have a question and need some help. I have an Automatic D wit
50,000+
> miles and dont reallly drive it, Whenever I start it about once a week or
> whenever it always has to run for like 5 minutes. The RPM needle goes from
> like 10 to 25 and then slowly after sittin for like 2 minutes idles back
> around 10. My mechanic said this is normal buit he really doesnt know much
> about d's and I dont think this is normal. He told me this was only
because
> it is cold out but now it is summer and the same problem still happens.
Can
> anyone please give me some help? Thanks so much
>
> BRIAN
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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 11:56:12 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Stuck
Richard,
Check the plug and wires at the electrical connector before deciding that
the idle speed motor is NG. If the motor is the problem, you have already
done all the procedures necessary to fix it. The motor may have
an intermittent coil winding which is not repairable.
Be sure that the idle speed microswitch, connections, and throttle linkage
are all working properly.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Strecker <dmc1219@xxxxxxx>
To: DMC <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2000 10:05 PM
Subject: [DML] Stuck
> Is there a cure for a sticking idle motor?
>
> I've been having problems lately with the idle not returning to ~750.
> Sometimes it will run at 1000 rpm other times somewhere between 1K and
> 1.5K. I noticed that the hose link between the cold start valve and the
> idle motor was a very sloppy fit, so I replaced it. While I had the
> idle motor off, I noticed that there was l lot of dirt? carbon, gunk,
> whatever in the passage. After a few shots of carb cleaner, the passage
> looks pretty clean. Cleaned the electrical contacts & resealed the air
> pipe, reassembled everything.
> Started the engine & idle seemed OK, gave it a quick hit with the
> accelerator & back to high idle speed. In somewhat desperation I rapped
> the idle motor with a screwdriver handle .......the idle speed returned
> to normal. I've tried this several more times and every time the
> screwdriver works.
> This may get a little awkward while driving if I have to get out & whack
> the idle motor at each stop light. So, other than replacing the idle
> motor, are there any suggestions????
>
>
> Richard
>
>
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 12:01:46 EDT
From: tybeaniety@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Question on STARTING A D...
Hi, how do i get the idle speed circuit repaired and is this expensive to
repair, Please let me know THANKS SO MUCH
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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 11:55:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Carson Clark <cnsandog@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Putting up the DMC for sale...
Hi All,
Carson Clark here, well I am moving from San Diego back to the east coast and was wanting to sell my pristine 1983 Delorean. I am not looking to make money off of the car just to get rid of it so I dont have to ship it! Please if you are serious about the car, give Don a call at DMC garden Grove, I ask for you to be serious so he doesnt get a lot of calls and get mad at me! ha!
Here is the scoop:
Don has really been the only person to work on the car since it was new. I have all receipts dating back to 1983 when the original owner purchased the car, I am the second owner. It is a 1983 VIN # 16367. It has been lowered and Don put a BAE turbo on the car a few years ago. It also has a rear spoiler on the car and I just installed a third brake light. I took the car up over Christmas and Don went over the entire car and basically if something was wrong fixed it. I put on a new copper radiator at that time too.
I bought the car last september with 35k miles on it, an since that time driven it everyday (its my only car) 50 miles to and from work, it now has 43k miles on it. Everything on the car works except for the defrost switch which just needs to be replaced...It also has sheepskin seat covers which I just had drycleaned and I also put down sheepskins for floormats.
If you are interested please just send me an e-mail and I will give you more details about the car, I am looking to sell it in the next few weeks. I am going to ask $16,500 for the car, easily under what the car is worth.
Thanks and I am sure this will not be my last DeLorean!
C
VIN 16367
P.S. I also have alot of memorablilia which I want to include with the car....copy of Stainless Steel Illusion, 1977 Road and Track- where they feature the protoype Delorean, a 1981 popular mechanics, a few original factory brochures, postcards etc.....Also have workshop manuals and car cover.
---------------------------------
Do You Yahoo!?
Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 23:52:50 -0000
From: danh@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Strange Squeel at start!?
My DeLorean does the same thing, it's caused by the belt slipping on
the AC. Make sure your belt tension is nice and tight, if that
doesn't fix it you may need to get your AC serviced. My AC sticks no
matter how tight the belt is, I figure it must have a bad bearing
inside the AC. I'm taking it in this week to get it fixed or
replaced.
-D
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, Cliff Andrews <fen2k@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi everyone.... something i have noticed that happens
> at random times.
>
> When i got to start up the D' for the first time and i
> believe with the A/C on i get a horrible squeel coming
> from the engine that happens for about 3-4 seconds and
> then stops. I heard it as well once when i cut on the
> A/C when driving? Any help would be appreciated to
> diagnose this problem.
>
> -Cliff Andrews
> 10854
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere!
> http://mail.yahoo.com/
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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 23:59:05 -0000
From: danh@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Need alignment specs.
If you have them, please post or send me the alignment specs for an
81 Delorean. None of the local alignment shops have the Delorean in
their computer.
I searched the message archive, but couldn't find any info. The
workshop manuals I have must be missing some pages because they don't
mention the alignment specs ( the previous owner probably pulled them
out to get the car aligned and then lost them ).
Thanks in advance,
-Dan
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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 21:33:12 EDT
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Strange Squeel at start!?
In a message dated 7/23/00 9:30:09 PM Eastern Daylight Time, fen2k@xxxxxxxxx
writes:
<< i get a horrible squeel coming
from the engine that happens for about 3-4 seconds and
then stops. >>
Hi Cliff-
I asked the same question on the DML several months ago, and several on the
list suggested it was my a/c idler pulley. They were right. I got the
replacement belts and pulley bearing rebuild kit. The pulley rebuild is
suggested "whenever you change the belts" (!) Anyway, before I got it on, I
was going up the highway when it began to squeal loud and long... then
stopped. You can guess the rest. The bearing totally seized, the belt
frayed then flew. I was fortunate. It could've damaged something. Someone
on the List had that happen, and a coolant hose was gashed. If you don't
know when your pulley was last rebuilt, I wouldn't wait...
-Wayne
"living the dream"
11174
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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 00:48:29 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Stuck
After craking open my idle speed unit, I discovered that between the
impeller & air flow chamber there is no seal what so ever. The
winding appeared to be fine, but on the brush above there was a HUGE
amount of carbon build up. Remember, the Idle Speed Regulator is not
a motor in the regular sense, it's a slide valve. It rotates back and
forth, it does not "spin" like a regular motor. So if you remove the
unit and jiggle it in your hand, if it does not sping 360 degrees,
this doesn't mean that it's broken (there's a rod in the chamber to
limit the valves movement. Hope this helps you trouble shooting!
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxx> wrote:
> Richard,
>
> Check the plug and wires at the electrical connector before
deciding that
> the idle speed motor is NG. If the motor is the problem, you have
already
> done all the procedures necessary to fix it. The motor may have
> an intermittent coil winding which is not repairable.
>
> Be sure that the idle speed microswitch, connections, and throttle
linkage
> are all working properly.
>
> "We're here to help you"
>
> DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxx>
> Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
>
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