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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 21 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Clear Coating
From: Bob Brandys <oehcs@xxxxxxxxx>
2. Radio Bracket Removal: A few questions.
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Taping gas caps
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
4. Re: Radio Bracket
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: my delorean will not start..
From: "Steven G. Rogers" <steven.rogers@xxxxxx>
6. Vin plate Location
From: "Claude Landi" <cbl302@xxxxxxx>
7. D for sale
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomcio@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: epoxy rear fascia bolts?
From: David Sontos <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. The Misadventures of my DeLorean.
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. leather die
From: "Erik Geerdink" <delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx>
11. Partsmanual in DBF or Tab-delimited format
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Florida Owners Driving To Cleveland Show?
From: whocruiser@xxxxxxx
13. Florida Owners Driving To Cleveland Show?
From: whocruiser@xxxxxxx
14. re: leather die
From: "Jonathan Heslop" <gatewayaag@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Autocrossing the D (& tire report)
From: "Jonathan Heslop" <gatewayaag@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Radio Bracket Removal: A few questions.
From: "BRUCE BENSON" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. NO AIR CONDITIONING
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982@xxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: my delorean will not start..
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomcio@xxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Wierd auto shifting problems
From: "Jonathan Heslop" <gatewayaag@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: Radio Bracket Removal: A few questions.
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
21. Cleveland
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 1
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 07:08:09 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <oehcs@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Clear Coating
> Our experience with clear coating the 97 DeLorean has been very positive.
> Only two tricks are necessary. first to properly prep the SS and second to
> use the proper clear coat. We tried two types. The first one was not so
> good. the second from 92 GM cars was much better. It bonded well to the SS.
BOB
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 08:28:27 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Radio Bracket Removal: A few questions.
I replaced my Radio bracket this weekend with a replacement "DIN" cut
one.
Center console removal was easier than I though. When I got everything
apart, I was surprised to see a real mess of wires. I also noticed that
all of the AC panel light wires had been cut, and some ZIP cord and
black tape was used to connect the lights to one of the other
connections. I then realized that this was someone's method of making
the panel lights go on and off with the headlights. I removed the ZIP
cord, and restored the correct connections with some crimps. I then
performed the modification at
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/acpanellites.htm Has anyone had any
bad experiences with this mod? I find it odd that the car would be
engineered to have a dedicated relay just for those 4 small bulbs in the
AC panel! Also, the lights look brighter now than before, because I
think it was on the dimmer control before. Has anyone come up with a
good modification to put them back on the dimmer in a clean way? or a
fixed resistor to cut the light a bit?
While removing the dash, I broke the light dimmer switch. For now, I
hot wired all of the wires together. The dash lights are brighter than
ever. I seem to remember DMC Joe saying those dimmers are no longer
available. Does anyone know what the specification on this part are? I
assume it is a linear taper potentiometer, but what is the resistance
and wattage?
I also noticed that there is a loose (looks like it was cut) ground wire
attached to the small screw on the side of the bracket. there are a few
(5 I think) ground wires in there, some of them have what looks like a
capacitor on them, so I assume the wires may be for noise suppression.
The wire that looks cut is red (after the capacitor). Anyone know where
this is supposed to go?
Thanks,
Marc
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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 09:05:59 EDT
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: Taping gas caps
I have had a number of you ask about the taping of the caps. This is not a
big deal but in Ohio many of the shows insurance underwriters (mine included)
require the caps be taped . All this is is an 8" piece of electrical tape
wrapped around the cap and the neck to prevent it from being removed during
the show so someone doesn't accidentially ignite your tank by smoking or a
spark. Boy from the reaction this was really interesting. I assure you all
this is not a big deal. I am more worried about getting enough fire
extinguishers. I have quite a few responses so far so hopefully I don't have
to bring a bunch.
Thanks again
Ken
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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 08:36:11 PDT
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Radio Bracket
Yes, DeLorean Midstates Club sells such a bracket.
Go to: http://www.midstatedmc.com/
PS! I have ordered one already and I will post my opinions on it when I
receive it. Should be within this week or so.
Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
NORWAY
>From: "Dale Schaub" <daleschaub@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
>To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: [DML] Radio Bracket
>Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 19:19:26 -0700
>
>I believe a while back someone on this list fabricated a radio bracket that
>allows the installation of the newer types of radios without cutting the
>origninal car materials. Please e-mail me privately.
>
>Dale Schaub
>
>
>
>Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
>www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 8:46:05 -0700
From: "Steven G. Rogers" <steven.rogers@xxxxxx>
Subject: Re: my delorean will not start..
If the car is running for 10 seconds and then quits, check the fuel accumulator, the fuel filter, the hose
attached to the fuel pump that's in the tank (is it broken?) is there a difference with more or less
fuel in the tank? If you spray starter fluid into the intake manifold (remove air filter) will it keep running?
If so, fuel problem. If not, electrical.
*******************************************************************************
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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 15:13:06 -0400
From: "Claude Landi" <cbl302@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Vin plate Location
I was just wondering as I was looking at the poster of the right hand drive
Delorean (british spec car)on the poster you can see that the Vin Tag on the
poster Delorean is on what is the passenger side sill(I know it is a reverse
negative photo),but I was wondering if the vin tags are moved over to the
right side (both vin plates) when a car is converted to British or all other
countries,that mandate that the cars have to be converted to right hand
drive,or are they just left where the factory put them,I know here in
Connecticut if you remove a vin plate for any reason,and then reinstall
it,even for restoration purposes,you can get into very deep S**T, because
as far as I know all cars have the vin tags on the same side as where the
Driver sits.... any comments on that....Thanks
Claude
000570
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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 16:17:06 -0400
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomcio@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: D for sale
Hello All,
My DeLorean is still for sale. If someone is interested, please go to
http://auctions.yahoo.com/ and search for DeLorean. It's the one in Florida,
automatic. The price is $17500
If you have any questions email me at tomcio@xxxxxxxxxxx
Tom Niemczewski
tomcio@xxxxxxxxxxx
vin 6298
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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 19:20:25 -0400
From: David Sontos <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: epoxy rear fascia bolts?
I had the same problem with mine. Don't use anything else but two part urethane
epoxy and make sure you use stainless steel hardware.
Delorean17@xxxxxxx wrote:
> Hello List,
> I mentioned this once before but I never got around to doing it. 5 of
> the 7 bolts along the bottom of my rear fascia are snapped off. I am going
> to be putting it back on this weekend when my rear closing panel comes. some
> said to drill all the way through the fascia and just put bolts there. I
> really dont want to do that.
> If I go buy studs at the hardware and grind the broken fascia bolt flat
> is there a strong enough epoxy that will hold the studs on?(brand name?) I
> would really like to do that If I can.
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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 20:39:23 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: The Misadventures of my DeLorean.
In the past 2 weeks I've had a few problems with my DeLorean, which
is why I haven't posted to the list, or responded to my email. So for
everyone who wrote to me about the History Channel show, and on the
subject of headlight conversions, I haven't forgot about you! First
it started with the alternator belt coming loose, and then taking the
A/C belt with it! Autozone had the belts, so no problem. But here's
something I've never heard of: While driving down the street, the oil
pressure dropped to zero, and the warning light came on. The water
temp went over 260, and the engine over heated. All of this was
followed by a grinding sound from the passenger side of the engine
compartment. After letting the car sit for 20 minutes or so, and
adding a quart of oil, the engine started back up with no problem,
and the oil pressure went back to normal. But I no longer had any
water in the cooling lines. The cap on the surge tank didn't relase,
but the otterstat blew out. I've now got everything back up and
running as normal with no problems, but I can't for the life of me
figure out what happened! 2 days before, I checked the oil level, &
it was fine. After adding the quart of oil, the level was still
alright. I've since done an oil change, and there is no water mixed
in with the oil, so I know that I didn't blow a head gasket (thanks
for all the help from DMC Joe!). The only thing that I have noticed
that is different is the oil pressure. After changing oil and the oil
filter, the pressure appears to now be lower, but what is the normal
operating PSI? The back ground on the car is that it sat in the
desert for about a decade before we had it put back on the road. If
any one has any ideas, please let me know. When I get home ( I'm
posting from work right now), I'll post some more on my expieriences
with the car: water leaks, the Yokohama AVS tires, and more. Thanks
in advance!
-Robert
vin 6585
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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 20:41:44 -0000
From: "Erik Geerdink" <delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: leather die
Could someone suggest to me a grey die that looks original? I need
it for my seats. thanks
Erik Geerdink
4512
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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 00:46:04 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Partsmanual in DBF or Tab-delimited format
Hi,
I know there is someone on the list who has the Partsmanual in a
digital format available for a Palm... (found it in the vault)
I also know there's an electronic version available on several places
on the internet (got mine at www.delorean.nl)
I've been trying to figure out whether it is possible to exprot this data to a
DBF or TAB-delimited-file-format so I could build my
own database on my Ericsson MC218/Psion Series5mx...
If anyone has succeeded, or has even MADE
a DATA-file for a series 5 please let me know by private mail.
When someone DOES mail me a DBF or TAB-file and I get so lucky
that I actually DO make a working database,
I would be more than happy to post it in the vault...
Hope to hear from someone soon...
JAN van de Wouw
Think Different... Use a Mac...
Live the Dream... Drive a DeLorean...
check out the Delorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
------------------------------
This message was sent from an Ericsson MC218
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 23:09:53 -0000
From: whocruiser@xxxxxxx
Subject: Florida Owners Driving To Cleveland Show?
I will be driving the D up to the Cleveland show next month, and
would like to know if there are any others from my area
(Miami/Ft.Lauderdale), or whom I will be passing along the way,
planning on doing the same who may want to travel together, both for
the "neat look effect" when we drive by, and for "safety in numbers"
should anybody break down on route.
I am planning to leave on Tuesday the 13th to arrive sometine on
Thursday the 15th, hopefully well in time for the Thursday night
Downtown Cleveland Welcome Cruise. I will be stopping over to visit
family in Buffalo & Albany NY on the drive back, so will probably
have to do that direction alone.
I also am traveling alone, and have a reservation held for Thursday,
Friday, and Saturday nights at the hotel in Cleveland, and would be
very happy to split the room (and the cost!) with someone else who's
there for the show, wherever they're coming in from. Please contact
me privately if you are interested, and we'll take it from there.
Dan Harris - VIN 1662 - 1981 Black Auto
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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 23:09:53 -0000
From: whocruiser@xxxxxxx
Subject: Florida Owners Driving To Cleveland Show?
I will be driving the D up to the Cleveland show next month, and
would like to know if there are any others from my area
(Miami/Ft.Lauderdale), or whom I will be passing along the way,
planning on doing the same who may want to travel together, both for
the "neat look effect" when we drive by, and for "safety in numbers"
should anybody break down on route.
I am planning to leave on Tuesday the 13th to arrive sometine on
Thursday the 15th, hopefully well in time for the Thursday night
Downtown Cleveland Welcome Cruise. I will be stopping over to visit
family in Buffalo & Albany NY on the drive back, so will probably
have to do that direction alone.
I also am traveling alone, and have a reservation held for Thursday,
Friday, and Saturday nights at the hotel in Cleveland, and would be
very happy to split the room (and the cost!) with someone else who's
there for the show, wherever they're coming in from. Please contact
me privately if you are interested, and we'll take it from there.
Dan Harris - VIN 1662 - 1981 Black Auto
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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 19:13:38 -0500
From: "Jonathan Heslop" <gatewayaag@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: re: leather die
Erik.........
Check with a local car dealer that you know well and see who they use for
their interior work. Most have a guy that comes once a week to do their
work.
I use a guy from my local Cadillac dealerships. He comes over here on my
side of St. Louis on Wednesdays. He's been to my house a few times to spray
hardtop interiors, carpets, a dash, a steering wheel, etc for me. He'll mix
up the dye in his van and then spray it on. Can't tell that it's not
original!
He charges about $100-$150 per visit which is fine by me!
If you want to work on the leather yourself, check this website:
http://www.leathermagic.com This stuff is awesome. It can bring back worn
and discolored leather. You'll still need the color code though.
Good luck,
--Jonathan
#000697
----------------------
Could someone suggest to me a grey die that looks original? I need
it for my seats. thanks
Erik Geerdink
4512
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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 19:33:36 -0500
From: "Jonathan Heslop" <gatewayaag@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Autocrossing the D (& tire report)
Yesterday I took the D to a SCCA Autocross here in town. The Southern IL
Region setup a course in a closed department store parking lot. This course
was very tight and it was hard to get over about 20 mph.
First off, my DeLorean is an automatic. I left it in second gear. I was
very difficult to race because of how low it sits and the corner visibility.
I got my seat back as far up as I could so that my helmet was resting on the
top of the door. I was still guessing where the cones were going through
the turns.
I just finished putting in the lowered front springs, a rebuilt steering
rack, new front rotors, new front calipers, and Marty Maier's custom rear
shock and lower control arm setup. (http://www.midstatedmc.com and click on
Products)
I also just put a new set of Yokohoma AVS tires on it. On and off the track
the car's handling and ride have been GREATLY improved due to the tires,
springs, shocks, etc.
A few weeks ago some one bad mouthed the Yoko's and endorsed the Firehawks.
This was absolutely wrong. I ran Firestone Firehawks on my D for 10 months
and 2000 miles. They are JUNK compared to these Yoko's. I also borrowed a
set of BFG Comp TAs for a few hundred miles. MUCH, MUCH better than the
Firehawks, but not as nice as the Yoko's. By all means, spend the extra
money on the Yokohoma tires.
Back to the Autocross........I had 7 runs, getting a better time and less
cones each time. At one point I did let the rear end get out there and lost
control of the car. Lots of fun. If you get a chance to do this, take the
D, but don't plan on competing--just go out and have fun!!
Mark Noeltner has a video of himself running an Autocross in his D last
October--sideline and cockpit camera views. This parking lot was 10 times
as big as the one I was in yesterday so you can see some more serious
racing. Check it out at http://www.midstatedmc.com and click on Events then
SCCA Autocross from 10/10/99. You'll see a picture me in my Allante (I
wanted to take the D, but it broke down the night before coming home from
the DOA banquet!!)
--Jonathan
#000697
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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 20:11:49 -0500
From: "BRUCE BENSON" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Radio Bracket Removal: A few questions.
Put a 10ohm resistor ( radio Shack) in the jumper wire used to replace the
relay. You'll have to wrap it with electrical tape. I've had this in my car
for years with no problem. The light intensity is just right with 10 ohms
resistance. The stock lighting really creates a lot of heat behind that thin
plastic panel.
Bruce Benson
Also, the lights look brighter now than before, because I
> think it was on the dimmer control before. Has anyone come up with a
> good modification to put them back on the dimmer in a clean way? or a
> fixed resistor to cut the light a bit?
wattage?
> Thanks,
> Marc
>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 20:08:59 -0400
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: NO AIR CONDITIONING
I was working on my car cooling fans with the engine idling and the air
conditioning on. The compressor clutch began cycling in and out and finally
quit and won't pull in now.
This is a problem I have never had before! Help...
Thanks in advance
Cecil Longwisch
#10663
ILDMC1982
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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 22:19:39 -0400
From: "Tom Niemczewski" <tomcio@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: my delorean will not start..
Hi,
Just in case that you do need it. Let me know. I've got a brand new one,
never installed that I just don't need.
e mail me directly if interested at tomcio@xxxxxxxxxxx
Tom Niemczewski
tomcio@xxxxxxxxxxx
vin 6298 (for sale)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywtrs@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2000 7:40 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] my delorean will not start..
>
> Mine did that at one time, turned out to be the warm up regulator. Some
> people will tell you that they never go bad, but that's wrong, they do.
> Mine would actually burn out the battery trying to start it. But also,
this
> is a 250 dollar or so part, so you might have it pressure tested before
you
> jump into that one.
>
> Scott
> #16738
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 20:00:57 -0500
From: "Jonathan Heslop" <gatewayaag@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Wierd auto shifting problems
I'm having an odd problem with my DeLorean. This is #000697, an automatic,
with a 90s technology computer. In first gear from a stop, if I accelerate
hard (more than half pedal), I get two-three disitinct "bumps". The car
acts if it's trying to DOWNshift out of first!
Dead stop in first: 800 rpm
Pedal to the metal.......
First bump: 2300-2600 rpm then drops to 2000
About 1 second later........
Second "bump" at 2900-3100 rpms then drop to 2600
About 1 second later.......(sometimes)
Third "bump" at 2900-3100 again
Finally it will break through pick up some speed and get to 2nd gear.
This happens no matter the temperature of the engine or the fuel load. It's
really scary when I'm trying to get out into traffic from a stop sign. It's
especially bad when I'm making a turn or going up hill. Any ideas???????
Thanks!!
--Jonathan
#000697
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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 22:35:17 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Radio Bracket Removal: A few questions.
Long message, I only have time to answer the AC panel light question. During
the design stages it was decided that whenever the key was switched on the
AC panel lights would illuminate at full brightness during daylight for
increased visibility. To reduce this brightens during nighttime driving a
relay was inserted in the circuit between the main lighting switch (park &
headlights) and the panel lights. A later, non-factory, modification was
introduced to only allow the AC panel lights to illuminate with the parking
or headlights.
If your car is wired properly the panel lights should dim approximately 25%
when the main headlight/parking light switch is in the "on"position.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
.
----- Original Message -----
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: DMC News <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2000 8:28 AM
Subject: [DML] Radio Bracket Removal: A few questions.
I find it odd that the car would be
> engineered to have a dedicated relay just for those 4 small bulbs in the
> AC panel! Also, the lights look brighter now than before, because I
> think it was on the dimmer control before. Has anyone come up with a
> good modification to put them back on the dimmer in a clean way? or a
> fixed resistor to cut the light a bit?
>
> Thanks,
> Marc
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 03:53:47 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Cleveland
To All,
I am pleased to announce that DeLorean Services Mobile Repair Vehicle will be stationed just outside of Cleveland to inspect, service, and repair DeLoreans attending the big show. Alan, and yours truly, will arrive Monday June 12 and remain for a full day after the show is over.
This will be an ideal opportunity for you to get your "D" checked out before, during, or after the show. This should also provide you with the extra security of knowing that we will be close by in case you have a problem.
For more details go to our website Home Page at http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/3755/mainA.html
For more information email us or call 770 631-4800.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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