Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Repair shop list
From: abatt10347@xxxxxxx
2. Re: Convoy to DMC 2000
From: billschaferabn@xxxxxxx
3. metal overflow bottle
From: "Sean Spurlock" <sean_dmc1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: clutch
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
5. Re: Maintenance Questions
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
6. Lazy mechanic...
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
7. Re: muffler heat shield
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
8. Auto or Manual Chassis
From: "chris" <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Stainless labels and other things...
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Stainless labels and other things...
From: "Erik Geerdink" <delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx>
11. Cleveland souvenir
From: Printed Drinkware Company <drinkware@xxxxxxxx>
12. 5 year old navigator
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: POR15 (was Rust)
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Stainless labels and other things...
From: uncleump@xxxxxxx
15. Other questions
From: "Sean Spurlock" <sean_dmc1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Repair for reversed blower motor syndrome...
From: "Danrc30" <Danrc30@xxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Fw: Re:blower motor Digest Number 24
From: "Claude Landi" <cbl302@xxxxxxx>
18. Re: Digest Number 26 POR15
From: "Claude Landi" <cbl302@xxxxxxx>
19. Re; rust Por 15
From: "Mike DeLuca" <mdeluca@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Vac Line- was: Blower Motor Reversed??
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
21. DeLorean Car Show Update
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
22. DMC Sports Car Paperwork Wanted
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway@xxxxxxxxxxx>
23. door adjustment
From: "Sean Spurlock" <sean_dmc1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: Stainless labels and other things...
From: Trevor Johnson <comet6974@xxxxxxxx>
25. Acceleration FIXED!!
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 23:47:04 EDT
From: abatt10347@xxxxxxx
Subject: Repair shop list
Fellow DMCer's,
Dave has just informed me that the repair shop list is up and running. It can
be found at http://www.dmcnews.com/files.html. Thanks to all those of you
who sent in shops. And thanks to Dave for converting my MS Word file to pdf.
Bruce Battles
Vin 06569
Counting down the days until Cleveland!!!!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 00:02:46 EDT
From: billschaferabn@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Convoy to DMC 2000
Eric,
I would be leaving from IL and headed to Ohio. I would be interested in
meeting up with anyone going that way.
Bill #1596
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 23:08:16 CDT
From: "Sean Spurlock" <sean_dmc1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: metal overflow bottle
Group,
Need to replace my header bottle. Which is the best place to buy one
from? What is the cost? Thanks guys for putting up with my endless posts! I
am a new owner!!!
Best Wishes,
Sean Spurlock
VIN 7003
________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 23:15:38 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: clutch
The Centerforce clutch is similar in performance to the OEM except for a
lighter pedal pressure. Very handy in stop and go traffic. The only
advantage of the adjustable clutch link is that it allows for adjustment of
the "grab" height of the pedal.
Although jacking of the engine is required for removal of the transaxle it
does not require removal. The transmission is a Renault R-30.
NOTE: I will be in New Orleans Thursday 4/27 to Monday 5/1, please hold your
questions and comments until I return. Thanks DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
.
----- Original Message -----
From: Erik Geerdink <delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2000 1:01 PM
Subject: [DML] clutch
> I'm going to be replacing my clutch before the DMC 2000 show and was
> wondering what the list thought of the Centerforce Clutch for the
> Delorean. I've only talk to one other person about the Centerforce
> and he loves it. Any other comments? Also, while I'm at it I'm
> replacing the clutch line and master/slave cylinder. Does anybody
> have a NEW master and slave cylinder for sale?
> On the PJ grady website they have a link adjuster kit, has anybody
> installed this and is it worth it?
> I'm figuring since I'm removing the transmission anyway, why not
> replace anything that might go wrong in the future.
>
> BTW: does the engine have to come out to replace the clutch? I heard
> that somewhere. Also, what model number is the 5 speed transmission?
>
> I'd like to tell my mechanic what it is. thanks for the help!
>
> Erik Geerdink
> 4512
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 23:43:20 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Maintenance Questions
You said "I hope there is an alternative..."; what are your objections to
the original heatsheild, it is the most efficient at heat rejection.
NOTE: I will be in New Orleans Thursday 4/27 to Monday 5/1, please hold your
questions and comments until I return. Thanks DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
.
----- Original Message -----
From: Sean Spurlock <sean_dmc1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2000 1:36 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Maintenance Questions
> Joe,
>
> The asbestos heat shield is a part I definately need so I can be sure
> that my belts won't melt. I hope there is an alternative...I read about
the
> stainless steel one, but wouldn't this conduct more heat? Let me know what
> your replacement part consists of. I will have the lines bled. I know this
> was done in Jan. of this year at DMC Houston, but I will have it done
again.
> I haven't found any fluid leaking anywhere, so this might solve the
problem.
> If not, what should I do? I need this fixed before the May 6th weekend. I
> have to drive the car back to Huntsville, AL then. Let me know what you
> think I should do. Thanks again Joe!
>
> Sean
> VIN 7003
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 00:17:03 EDT
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
Subject: Lazy mechanic...
Hey List,
I just noticed something on my binnacle.....whoever worked on my car
for the previous owner was too lazy to figure out why the Lambda warning
light was on and they just simply took out the light bulb. Actually now that
I think about it, thats a lot easier than troubleshooting the problem,
replacing the O2 sensor and resetting the Lambda service counter and making
sure the car runs correctly. And all the rest of the DeLorean owners do all
the hard work, too bad I don't have the phone number of that mechanic, looks
like he does good work...j/k :) Thanks!
Later,
Nick
VIN#1852
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 00:13:29 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: muffler heat shield
This shredded condition is typical of the OEM heatsheilds and is caused by
repeated heat and cool cycles and deterioration from water damage.
NOTE: I will be in New Orleans Thursday 4/27 to Monday 5/1, please hold your
questions and comments until I return. Thanks DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
.
----- Original Message -----
From: Sean Spurlock <sean_dmc1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2000 10:36 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] muffler heat shield
> I'll try and get pics of the shredded heat shield. I just ordered the PJ
> grady replacement. It looks like a belt broke and just shredded the
shield.
> Asbestos was all over the engine, and I am still trying to clean it all
up.
> I have no idea how long it has been like this since I just bought the car
> last weekend. Thanks guys!!!
>
> Sean
> VIN 7003
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 09:19:38 +0100
From: "chris" <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Auto or Manual Chassis
Is there an easy way to tell if a chassis is an Auto or Manual?
As I understand it you can put an Auto box in a Manual chassis but its very difficult the other way round, is that true or is it Manual into an Auto chassis?
thanks
Chris
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 07:26:26 -0500
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Stainless labels and other things...
Had to be later than that. #6820 built Nov 81 has the Craig and the console
clock.
Mark N
VIN #6820
At 09:03 PM 4/25/00 -0500, you wrote:
>.The late '81's had a Craig radio with a clock in the tape deck door. This
>change happened around vin # 6158.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 13:34:37 -0000
From: "Erik Geerdink" <delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Stainless labels and other things...
Mine has this radio (it doesn't work though) and my VIN is 4512
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, Mike Jones <DreamCar_DMC-12@xxxx> wrote:
> My friends D is vin #6885 and his has the clock on the tape deck
door
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> <..The late '81's had a Craig radio with a clock in the tape deck
door. This
> change happened around vin # 6158. I'm not sure how many of Craig
radios
> with the clock ended up being installed.>
>
> ______________________________________________
> FREE Personalized Email at Mail.com
> Sign up at http://www.mail.com/?sr=signup
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 10:17:28 -0400
From: Printed Drinkware Company <drinkware@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Cleveland souvenir
Is there any interest in a souvenir clear acrylic glass, 16 oz., with a DeLorean logo ---
wings up view, and some copy about Cleveland 2000? Cost would be $5.00 each,
which should be a reasonable price for everyone. Since I'll be driving, there wouldn't
be a lot of room. I need an idea of quantity required. To save room, please contact
me directly at: drinkware@xxxxxxxx
Permission from the organizers is formally requested, at this time, to supply these.
Please contact me at my e-mail shown.
I may have room for a navigator. Applications are now being accepted!!
Marv. Stein
#4239
Original message from:
dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
>Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
>www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>There are 24 messages in this issue.
>
>Topics in this digest:
>
> 1. Re: Yokohama Speed rating
> From: "Michael C. Babb" <michael.babb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> 2. re: Yokohama Speed rating
> From: "Jonathan Heslop" <gatewayaag@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> 3. Re: muffler heat shield
> From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
> 4. Re: New nose Bra
> From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
> 5. Re: Maintenance Questions
> From: "Sean Spurlock" <sean_dmc1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> 6. Re: Re: Blower Motor Reversed??
> From: billschaferabn@xxxxxxx
> 7. Re: Blower Motor Reversed??
> From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> 8. Cleveland Driving Events: Eratta
> From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> 9. Cleveland Rapid Transit: Errata
> From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> 10. clutch
> From: "Erik Geerdink" <delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx>
> 11. Re: Rust
> From: "James Teston" <orentha@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> 12. LHD to RHD conversion
> From: "Vin#5462" <dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> 13. Convoy to DMC 2000
> From: "Erik Geerdink" <delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx>
> 14. Re: clutch
> From: "BRUCE BENSON" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> 15. Re: muffler heat shield
> From: "Sean Howley" <tsuyoi@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> 16. Re: Cleveland Driving Events: Eratta
> From: scottmueller@xxxxxxxxx
> 17. Light switch bracket in engine compartment...
> From: njp548@xxxxxxx
> 18. Re: muffler heat shield
> From: "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> 19. Stainless labels and other things...
> From: "Sean Spurlock" <sean_dmc1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> 20. Re: Stainless labels and other things...
> From: "BRUCE BENSON" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> 21. Stainless muffler heat shield
> From: "Sean Howley" <tsuyoi@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> 22. stainless steel labels
> From: "Michael C. Babb" <michael.babb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> 23. Re: muffler heat shield
> From: "Sean Spurlock" <sean_dmc1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> 24. Re: Stainless labels and other things...
> From: Mike Jones <DreamCar_DMC-12@xxxxxxxx>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
_______
>_________________________________________________________________
_______
>
>Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2000 21:23:26 -0600
> From: "Michael C. Babb" <michael.babb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Re: Yokohama Speed rating
>
>The Yoko's I have had on my car for about 2 1/2 years are V rated. I
>believe this is standard for the AVS Intermediates.
>
>Michael Babb
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jim Reeve --Ultra--" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
>To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>Sent: Monday, April 24, 2000 8:05 PM
>Subject: [DML] Yokohama Speed rating
>
>
>> I recently was searching through tirerack.com browsing for tires that
>> fit the size of the DeLorean. I came across the Yokohama AVS
>> Intermediate which we all know are the best tires currently available in
>> the stock sizes. But what I noticed was a speed rating on the 195/60 14
>> and 235/60 15 was "V" (149 mph). I always thought that they were "H"
>> (130 mph). Does anyone who has recently purchased these tires care to
>> say what the speed rating on their side wall is? I know that a stock
>> DeLorean can't really get above 130, but modified ones can. So this
>> just makes me curious and I'm sure owners of Turbo'ed and engine swapped
>> D's would like this too.
>> --
>> Jim Reeve <Ultra>
>> http://www.isd.net/jpatrick/
>> AIM-Ultra2169
>>
>>
>> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
>> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>>
>> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>>
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
_______
>_________________________________________________________________
_______
>
>Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2000 22:31:03 -0500
> From: "Jonathan Heslop" <gatewayaag@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: re: Yokohama Speed rating
>
>Jim........
>
>The new set I just got from TireRack are V-rated. Can't wait to get them on
>the car. My old set were FireStones! uggggggggggg!!!!!
>
>--Jonathan
> #000697
>
>------------------------------------------
>
>I recently was searching through tirerack.com browsing for tires that
>fit the size of the DeLorean. I came across the Yokohama AVS
>Intermediate which we all know are the best tires currently available in
>the stock sizes. But what I noticed was a speed rating on the 195/60 14
>and 235/60 15 was "V" (149 mph). I always thought that they were "H"
>(130 mph). Does anyone who has recently purchased these tires care to
>say what the speed rating on their side wall is? I know that a stock
>DeLorean can't really get above 130, but modified ones can. So this
>just makes me curious and I'm sure owners of Turbo'ed and engine swapped
>D's would like this too.
>--
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
_______
>_________________________________________________________________
_______
>
>Message: 3
> Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2000 23:41:52 EDT
> From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
>Subject: Re: muffler heat shield
>
>In a message dated 4/24/00 10:32:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>sean_dmc1@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
>
><< Need to replace my muffler heat shield, but DO NOT want the
> original asbestos one. How is the stainless steel one? Any thoughts?
> >>
>
>Haven't seen it, but they say they're coming out with a new two layer one
>that's even better. I grilled him about via e-mail.
>PJ Grady has one that isn't stainless, but is more durable than the original.
> Haven't seen that either, but I like everything I've seen from Grady!
>
>-Wayne
>"Living the Dream!"
>VIN...11174
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
_______
>_________________________________________________________________
_______
>
>Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2000 23:41:50 EDT
> From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
>Subject: Re: New nose Bra
>
>In a message dated 4/22/00 9:09:02 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>jpalatinus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
>
><< Mine has bug flaps (triangular prisims) sticking up on both sides of the
> front of the car. >>
>
>Joe-
>Somebody just e-mailed me that they've seen ones with bug flaps in the De
>Lorean 1 catalog. Maybe yours is from there. I have only been up to 50 a
>few times since I got mine, but it doesn't flap in the breeze. I don't know
>how it could. It hooks in 8 (or ten?) places and fits like my college jeans.
>If I tried to put then on today. Well, better than that, actually! I'll
>keep you posted on developments. I'll be putting a picture of mine in the
>vault later this week.
>
>-Wayne
>"Living the Dream!"
>VIN...11174
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
_______
>_________________________________________________________________
_______
>
>Message: 5
> Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 00:36:28 CDT
> From: "Sean Spurlock" <sean_dmc1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Re: Maintenance Questions
>
>Joe,
>
> The asbestos heat shield is a part I definately need so I can be sure
>that my belts won't melt. I hope there is an alternative...I read about the
>stainless steel one, but wouldn't this conduct more heat? Let me know what
>your replacement part consists of. I will have the lines bled. I know this
>was done in Jan. of this year at DMC Houston, but I will have it done again.
>I haven't found any fluid leaking anywhere, so this might solve the problem.
>If not, what should I do? I need this fixed before the May 6th weekend. I
>have to drive the car back to Huntsville, AL then. Let me know what you
>think I should do. Thanks again Joe!
>
>Sean
>VIN 7003
>
>_________________________________________________________________
_______
>Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
_______
>_________________________________________________________________
_______
>
>Message: 6
> Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 07:38:57 EDT
> From: billschaferabn@xxxxxxx
>Subject: Re: Re: Blower Motor Reversed??
>
>Dan,
>
> I would like to know the fix as well. I have the same problem but haven't
>had time to address it as my D is in storage. Please forward your fix. I have
>a fax as well if you need that # let me know.
>
>
>Bill # 1596
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
_______
>_________________________________________________________________
_______
>
>Message: 7
> Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 13:42:14 -0000
> From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Re: Blower Motor Reversed??
>
>The "reverse the wires" comment was not very complete - I should have
>added the statement that "it is common for the wires to be hooked up
>backwards (by prior service people/owners) so they need to be
>switched back to make them correct." (this was in the original
>archive). I agree - if you make the fan housing the "hot" side there
>would be a bit of a hazard of accidentally grounding it at a later
>date. Fuses would blow.
>
>I'm curious about Dan's other method of correcting a blower that
>truly spins the wrong direction.
>
>Dave
>
>
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Danrc30" <Danrc30@xxxx> wrote:
>> Reversing the wires is not recommended. I had the same problem as
>you, and
>> DMC Joe explained to me that when the wires are reversed, the motor
>could
>> cause a short circuit if anything metal touches it. It's unlikely
>that
>> anything would, but it is possible... especially if you are doing
>something
>> under there with a screwdriver.
>
>> ---Dan
>>
>>
>> > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, Stephen Jarvis <jarvist@xxxx> wrote:
>The
>> > > problem had once been diagnosed as the fan running backwards,
>and I
>> > finally
>> > [snip]
>
>> >
>> > You can just reverse the wires. This was covered in several
>> > discussions a couple of years ago (search the archives
>on "blower"),
>> > but no one has mentioned it in a while. Apparently it's easy to
>hook
>> > it up backwards, and it often happens (blame the prior owner). No
>> > need to replace anything.
>> >
>> > Dave
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
_______
>_________________________________________________________________
_______
>
>Message: 8
> Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 08:55:08 -0400
> From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Cleveland Driving Events: Eratta
>
>As someone pointed out to me, there was a potentially confusing typo in my
message
>yesterday. It just proves that you should never be your own proofreader.
>
>The Orientation to Cleveland Cruise to the cocktail party departs THURSDAY
EVENING
>6:00 - 7:30 PM from the Holiday Inn.
>
>The Driving Tour / Rallye departs FRIDAY MORNING 9:30 - 10:00 AM from the
street
>behind the Great Lakes Science Center. (My typo said Thursday morning. Oops).
>
>For these events it will be perfectly fine to drive a non-DeLorean. However, we
>strongly recommend that you do not drive alone. While it is theoretically possible
>to find your way simply by listening to our audio tapes, we designed the tour
>expecting each car to have a map reader. Thus people in rental cars would be
better
>off finding a DeLorean in need of a navigator.
>
>- Mike Substelny
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
_______
>_________________________________________________________________
_______
>
>Message: 9
> Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 10:00:21 -0400
> From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Cleveland Rapid Transit: Errata
>
>Ken Koncelik wrote:
>
>> The airport . . . is Cleveland Hopkins airport. You
>> really don't need a rental car . Use the rapid transit that you
>> can catch right at the airport and get off at the East 9th st stop.
>> This is less than a two minute walk.
>
>Ken is describing Cleveland's commuter train system, the RTA Rapid Transit. He
>is correct in stating that there is a stop right inside Hopkins Airport and
>another stop very close to the hotel. The airport stop is very convenient,
>closer to your plane than the parking lot, taxi stand, or rental car companies.
>The fare is only $1.50 and the ride downtown is faster than driving.
>
>However, the same train line does not connect both places! To make the trip Ken
>describes, you need to change trains in the main station at Tower City / Public
>Square. You can change trains for free if you ask for a transfer when you pay
>your fare.
>
>A free PDF map is available here:
>
>http://little.nhlink.net/~rta/index.html
>
>The map is called "RTA Rapid Transit System Map (73k)." On this map, the
>airport is at stop #18 on the Red Line. The Tower City/Public Square transfer
>point is stop #9 on all lines. The Holiday Inn is near stop #47, called "East
>9th Street" on the Waterfront Line.
>
>When you get off the train, you will see Lake Erie to the North. Walk one block
>south to Lakeside, then one block East to the Holiday Inn.
>
>If anyone has any questions, please do not hesitate to contact me.
>
>- Mike Substelny
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
_______
>_________________________________________________________________
_______
>
>Message: 10
> Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 17:01:33 -0000
> From: "Erik Geerdink" <delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: clutch
>
>I'm going to be replacing my clutch before the DMC 2000 show and was
>wondering what the list thought of the Centerforce Clutch for the
>Delorean. I've only talk to one other person about the Centerforce
>and he loves it. Any other comments? Also, while I'm at it I'm
>replacing the clutch line and master/slave cylinder. Does anybody
>have a NEW master and slave cylinder for sale?
>On the PJ grady website they have a link adjuster kit, has anybody
>installed this and is it worth it?
>I'm figuring since I'm removing the transmission anyway, why not
>replace anything that might go wrong in the future.
>
>BTW: does the engine have to come out to replace the clutch? I heard
>that somewhere. Also, what model number is the 5 speed transmission?
>
>I'd like to tell my mechanic what it is. thanks for the help!
>
>Erik Geerdink
>4512
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
_______
>_________________________________________________________________
_______
>
>Message: 11
> Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 18:19:00 -0000
> From: "James Teston" <orentha@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Re: Rust
>
>I was thinking about using POR-15 for my frame too, And I was
>wondering if anyone has had any experiences with it? According to
>their website www.por15.com it seems like a good ( ecomonical )
>solution to a rusty frame... I would appreciate any feedback if
>anyone has used this.
>Thanks a lot.
>James 15314
>
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
_______
>_________________________________________________________________
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>
>Message: 12
> Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 19:16:41 +0100
> From: "Vin#5462" <dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: LHD to RHD conversion
>
>Hi All
>
>I live in England and am seriously considering converting my Left hand drive
>automatic DeLorean to a right hand drive. The dash board has split in half
>and so I intend to make a new one but reversed for RHD and then move the
>pedals, hand brake, steering and instruments over to the right. I am a
>fairly confident mechanic and having looked closely at the current layout it
>does not look too hard. Can the steering rack be run upside down, (I see no
>reason why not since it is a simple rack and pinion set-up)
>
>Are there any particular difficulties with this operation or anything
>specific which may require major structural work??
>
>Has anyone performed this operation themselves, and if so what problems did
>you incur?
>
>any help would be most appreciated, should I go ahead with the conversion I
>intend to create an accurate manual of how it was done in order to allow
>other DeLorean owners to follow suit.
>
>With thanks
>James
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
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>_________________________________________________________________
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>
>Message: 13
> Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 20:08:03 -0000
> From: "Erik Geerdink" <delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Convoy to DMC 2000
>
>time is getting closer to DMC 2000 and its about time to think about
>starting up convoys. Would anybody traveling thru the Michigan,
>Illinois, Indiana area like to meet up somewhere along the way?
>
>Erik Geerdink
>4512
>wanna see pics of two rare cars side by side? Check out the pictures
>of my 1981 Delorean and my room mates 1967 Alfa Romeo Duetto.
>http://members.xoom.com/michdeloclub/main/alfaDelo/DeloRomeo.htm
>
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
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>_________________________________________________________________
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>
>Message: 14
> Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 17:21:48 -0500
> From: "BRUCE BENSON" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Re: clutch
>
>I've been running with the Centerforce clutch for two years and find it
>works great. I would recommend getting Rob Grady's adjustable link as the
>centerforce will change the pedal free play a bit. Don't skimp with the
>clutch master and slave cyls. The slave is a real bugger to install and your
>idea about doing it with the tranny out is a good one. By new ones from one
>of the DeLorean suppliers.The tranny comes out without the engine needing to
>be removed. My son-in-law owns a repair shop and we used his hoist to do the
>job. He had replaced an Audi clutch the day before and commented about the
>DeLorean being a much less complicated job.
>
>Bruce Benson
>
>
>> wondering what the list thought of the Centerforce Clutch for the
>> Delorean. I've only talk to one other person about the Centerforce
>
>> On the PJ grady website they have a link adjuster kit, has anybody
>> installed this and is it worth it?
>> I'm figuring since I'm removing the transmission anyway, why not
>> replace anything that might go wrong in the future.
>>
>> BTW: does the engine have to come out to replace the clutch? >
>
>>
>> Erik Geerdink
>> 4512
>
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
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>_________________________________________________________________
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>
>Message: 15
> Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 18:12:27 -0400
> From: "Sean Howley" <tsuyoi@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Re: muffler heat shield
>
>About a year and a half ago, I made a two layered heat shield to replace the
>torn-up asbestos one. I included a "lip" on the bottom to aid in pulling
>air in-between the stainless sheets for reducing the heat transfer between
>the sheets. I have not had any problems, however, I do need to add a spacer
>in one location as the stainless sheets tend to contact each other due to
>lack of support in that area (center/top area of the shield). It also looks
>pretty good.
>
>Sean Howley
>VIN#2345
>
>> Haven't seen it, but they say they're coming out with a new two layer one
>> that's even better. I grilled him about via e-mail.
>> PJ Grady has one that isn't stainless, but is more durable than the
>original.
>> Haven't seen that either, but I like everything I've seen from Grady!
>
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
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>_________________________________________________________________
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>
>Message: 16
> Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 17:25:08 US/Central
> From: scottmueller@xxxxxxxxx
>Subject: Re: Cleveland Driving Events: Eratta
>
>Mike, My co-pilot/navigator will be my 5 year old son. He is doing well with his
reading,
>but multi-syllable words still present a challenge for him. Please make the directions
>simple.
>
>Scott Mueller
>
>However, we
>> strongly recommend that you do not drive alone. While it is theoretically possible
>> to find your way simply by listening to our audio tapes, we designed the tour
>> expecting each car to have a map reader. Thus people in rental cars would be
better
>> off finding a DeLorean in need of a navigator.
>>
>> - Mike Substelny
>
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
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>_________________________________________________________________
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>
>Message: 17
> Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 20:06:11 EDT
> From: njp548@xxxxxxx
>Subject: Light switch bracket in engine compartment...
>
>Hey List,
>
> Yesterday I removed the light switch bracket (fig. 20 3-5-2) in the
>engine compartment and as I was removing the bottom nut, the rachet was on an
>angle and i twisted the stud off. I already have the rear bulkhead assembly
>off so I have access behind that right now. There is foam thats covering the
>fiberglass body behind the rear bulkhead but I think that the 2 studs are
>connected to a metal plate and the metal plate is held in place by the foam
>on the fiberglass. I was just wondering where I can get that metal plate
>with the studs on it or how would I be able to fix this problem? Thanks for
>the help!
>
>Later,
>Nick
>VIN#1852
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
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>_________________________________________________________________
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>
>Message: 18
> Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 18:18:08 PDT
> From: "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Re: muffler heat shield
>
>Sean:
>Do you have pictures of this posted anywhere? If not, can you post some?
>Many would be interested in this seeing how the sheilds fall apart over
>time.
>Brian 16584
>
>>About a year and a half ago, I made a two layered heat shield to replace
>>the
>>torn-up asbestos one. I included a "lip" on the bottom to aid in pulling
>>air in-between the stainless sheets for reducing the heat transfer between
>>the sheets. I have not had any problems, however, I do need to add a
>>spacer
>>in one location as the stainless sheets tend to contact each other due to
>>lack of support in that area (center/top area of the shield). It also
>>looks
>>pretty good.
>
>_________________________________________________________________
_______
>Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
_______
>_________________________________________________________________
_______
>
>Message: 19
> Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 20:41:28 CDT
> From: "Sean Spurlock" <sean_dmc1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Stainless labels and other things...
>
>
>Group,
>
> I have decided to buy the heat shield from PJ Grady. I am VERY
>interested in the one from DeLorean Steel Products, so I might do that as
>well. What I really want is the stainless lables that were for sale on ebay
>a while back....where can I get these? If not, I need to buy a label set
>from Houston. Any help here guys? I will keep you informed on what I do
>about my brakes. Also, I do not have the usual clock next to the dash light
>dimmer. Is this the way it is supposed to be? I mean there isn't even a
>hole. All the DeLoreans I have seen before had the clock. Any ideas? Also,
>what is the update to the dash lighting at night that I have been hearing
>about? What use are the amber lights? Thanks guys!
>
>Sean
>VIN 7003
>_________________________________________________________________
_______
>Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
_______
>_________________________________________________________________
_______
>
>Message: 20
> Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 21:03:26 -0500
> From: "BRUCE BENSON" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Re: Stainless labels and other things...
>
>.The late '81's had a Craig radio with a clock in the tape deck door. This
>change happened around vin # 6158. I'm not sure how many of Craig radios
>with the clock ended up being installed.
>
>Bruce Benson
>
>
>> Also, I do not have the usual clock next to >the dash light
>> dimmer. Is this the way it is supposed to be? I mean there isn't even a
>> hole. All the DeLoreans I have seen before had the clock. Any ideas? >
>> Sean
>> VIN 7003
>>
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
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>_________________________________________________________________
_______
>
>Message: 21
> Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 22:07:52 -0400
> From: "Sean Howley" <tsuyoi@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Stainless muffler heat shield
>
>I do not have any pictures of it right now, but I will take some tomorrow
>and post them asap. However, this will take a couple of days. Once they
>are ready, I will let you all know and I will place them in the vault.
>
>Sean Howley
>VIN#2345
>
>
>> Do you have pictures of this posted anywhere? If not, can you post some?
>> Many would be interested in this seeing how the sheilds fall apart over
>> time.
>
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
_______
>_________________________________________________________________
_______
>
>Message: 22
> Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 20:18:07 -0600
> From: "Michael C. Babb" <michael.babb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: stainless steel labels
>
>I purchased a set of the stainless steel labels off of ebay about a year ago. If you
can find a set, I think they are a nice addition to the car. . .but be warned, they were
made in the mid 80's, so the adheasive doesn't play well and you will probably have
to use a heat gun to get the paper backing off. I will try to post a few pics of the
labels on my car in a few days . . .
>
>Michael Babb
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
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>_________________________________________________________________
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>
>Message: 23
> Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 21:36:44 CDT
> From: "Sean Spurlock" <sean_dmc1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Re: muffler heat shield
>
>I'll try and get pics of the shredded heat shield. I just ordered the PJ
>grady replacement. It looks like a belt broke and just shredded the shield.
>Asbestos was all over the engine, and I am still trying to clean it all up.
>I have no idea how long it has been like this since I just bought the car
>last weekend. Thanks guys!!!
>
>Sean
>VIN 7003
>
>
>>From: "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
>>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
>>Subject: Re: [DML] muffler heat shield
>>Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 18:18:08 PDT
>>
>>Sean:
>>Do you have pictures of this posted anywhere? If not, can you post some?
>>Many would be interested in this seeing how the sheilds fall apart over
>>time.
>>Brian 16584
>>
>> >About a year and a half ago, I made a two layered heat shield to replace
>> >the
>> >torn-up asbestos one. I included a "lip" on the bottom to aid in pulling
>> >air in-between the stainless sheets for reducing the heat transfer
>>between
>> >the sheets. I have not had any problems, however, I do need to add a
>> >spacer
>> >in one location as the stainless sheets tend to contact each other due to
>> >lack of support in that area (center/top area of the shield). It also
>> >looks
>> >pretty good.
>>
>>________________________________________________________________
________
>>Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
>>
>>
>>
>>Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
>>www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>>
>>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>>moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>>
>
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>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
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>_________________________________________________________________
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>
>Message: 24
> Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 22:29:19 -0400 (EDT)
> From: Mike Jones <DreamCar_DMC-12@xxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Re: Stainless labels and other things...
>
>My friends D is vin #6885 and his has the clock on the tape deck door
>
>Mike
>
>
>
><..The late '81's had a Craig radio with a clock in the tape deck door. This
>change happened around vin # 6158. I'm not sure how many of Craig radios
>with the clock ended up being installed.>
>
>______________________________________________
>FREE Personalized Email at Mail.com
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>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
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>_________________________________________________________________
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>
>
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 10:39:31 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 5 year old navigator
Hi Scott,
You said:
> Mike, My co-pilot/navigator will be my 5 year old son. He is doing
> well with his reading, but multi-syllable words still present a challenge
> for him. Please make the directions simple.
Attached is an Excel spreadsheet with the latest draft of the tour directions. If this format
is no good I will resend it as an ASCII or HTML file. Look it over and decide if you believe
your son can handle it.
The tour takes place in three legs. Each leg will be printed on a different color of paper,
and the same color will be traced on that section of the map using a matching highlighter.
I *might* be able to make even simpler directions. The real problem will be with street
names. I cannot simplify the names. The navigator may need to read 20 some names like
"Edgewater" and "Clifton" and "Euclid." Because you have the directions two months early, you
might reherse the names with your son. By June he could be able to read and pronounce all the
street names, and you would be fine.
The audio tape will also have the directions, with the street names pronounced by yours
truely. The tape is pretty well synchronized if everyone is driving near the speed limit in
normal traffic. The potential problem will be if several tour participants get bunched up at
an intersection or light. This could happen if someone is a leadfoot or tailgater. If this
happens then everyone behind them will have their recording thrown off schedule, and they will
need the navigator to read the directions until they reach the next stop.
- Mike S.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 15:05:44 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: POR15 (was Rust)
I used it when I rehabbed my frame. (It's also available from Wurth
as "Rustguard". Exactly the same stuff, the printing on the
instructions side of the label is identical). I've also used it to
paint brake calipers (on other cars). Great stuff. Only comes in
black or silver, but you can paint over it with Dark Machine Grey
Rustoleum for a good color match to the DMC paint.
Now for the disclaimers:
This is VERY potent paint, full of nasty chemicals (cynanide for one
thing) so don't even think about spraying it unless you are dressed
like a nuclear plant guy with an external air supply. If you get it
on your skin it will be there for at least 3-4 days.
As usual, check the www.dmcnews.com website tech section, here's a
direct link.
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/framepaint.htm
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "James Teston" <orentha@xxxx> wrote:
> I was thinking about using POR-15 for my frame too[snip]> Thanks a
lot.
> James 15314
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 11:45:13 EDT
From: uncleump@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Stainless labels and other things...
In a message dated 4/25/2000 9:55:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
<< .The late '81's had a Craig radio with a clock in the tape deck door. This
change happened around vin # 6158. I'm not sure how many of Craig radios
with the clock ended up being installed.
Bruce Benson >>
I own VIN 6770 produced in November '81 and it has a separate clock. I
wonder when the change in clocks took over?
Matt
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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 11:07:04 CDT
From: "Sean Spurlock" <sean_dmc1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Other questions
Group,
What are the exact sizes of the rear speakers in the DeLorean. I
know the fronts are 4x10 just like my Fiero. Also, I know there was a thread
on this, but what is the best way to illumintae your speedo and other gauge
faces at night. That dinky light isn't enough! any help would be great!
Thanks!
Best Wishes,
Sean Spurlock
VIN 7003
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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 12:04:36 -0400
From: "Danrc30" <Danrc30@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Repair for reversed blower motor syndrome...
I've done this to my own car, so I can vouch for it's effectiveness if done correctly.
Here's my solution. What I did on mine was I drilled out the rivets holding the two
pieces together. I then rotated the lower half 180 degrees from the upper
half. This reverses the magnetic polarity of the motor, and reverses the
direction that it spins. Now, the hard part is the drilling for the new
rivets. Just make sure you line it up180 degrees from where it was when you
drill the new holes. (When I put it back together, I used small sheet metal
screws instead of rivets in case I ever had to service it again.. and it
turned out that I did. Mine got some water in it and rusted a little. I
cleaned it and repacked it with grease, so now it's fine.) Now, the other
tricky part is drilling the hole for the power wire to go through. Just make
sure you line the new hole right and make it the same width as the old one.
You'll see what I mean when you take it apart. Now, it is a little tricky to
do it, but it'll work flawlessly, and you'll have the satisfaction of fixing
the problem yourself, and fixing it the RIGHT way. Trust me, it's a good
feeling. And you get to save that money you would've spent on the fan motor
on something else.
This procedure isn't by any means impossible, just time consuming and you have to be accurate when drilling the new holes. If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask.
---Dan
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 12:19:17 -0400
From: "Claude Landi" <cbl302@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Fw: Re:blower motor Digest Number 24
-----Original Message-----
From: Claude Landi <CBL302@xxxxxxx>
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Monday, April 24, 2000 7:53 PM
Subject: Re:blower motor [DML] Digest Number 24
>Those blower motors were made by the millions,it is a Delo-Remy part for
all
>air-conditioned General Motors cars made in the 1980's,just go to any auto
>parts store or salvage yard and you can buy a used one for about
$15.00.Also
>chances are it is your Mode control switch that is giving you the
>problem,what happens is the rubber part inside the mode control has 4
little
>nipples that hold it in place, that will break off from years of using the
>switch,and when the nipples break off the rubber part with the vaccume
>passages moves around from its normal position and when you turn the switch
>to activate, the passages are not aligned with the vaccume signal and you
>either get very little air flow or none at all.The switch can be taken
apart
>and repaired in many different ways.
>
>Claude
>000570
>
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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 12:14:21 -0400
From: "Claude Landi" <cbl302@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Digest Number 26 POR15
Pour over Rust 15 (POR15) is not a "fix" if your frame has a case of rust
thru,it is supposed to be in cases of non structurial rust areas,if your
frame has surface rust but not rust thru ,that is ok to use on it,or if you
remove the epoxy coating and apply POR15
over the bare frame that is fine too,but the best bet is to repair any rust
and then apply POR15,also after applying POR,it is a good idea to paint over
POR15,because it is sensitive to light.
Claude
000570
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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 17:06:38 -0000
From: "Mike DeLuca" <mdeluca@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re; rust Por 15
I have seen a few postings regarding frame restoration and POR15.
I spent the winter redoing my frame on the car and used Por 15.
I replied to a few people privately, because there seems to be
interest in this subject I will reprint the responses.
Sort of long.
Hi Greg,
I was hoping to start a thread so others would be privy to the
discussion and also contribute there experience (I've ans. some other
e-mails also). Let me know if you think we should post this?
I'm doing the frame work in my garage with the car on jack stands (a
lift would be nice...)
The wheels and the metal plate covering the gas tank (cant remember
the name of the big metal cover) are about all I've had to
disassemble. In the area you are describing I just used a die grinder
and a 2"(the smaller the better) wire wheel and a scraper, you
pick/scrape off as much epoxy as you can and use the wire wheel and
try to get it down to bare metal as best you can.
Note: Many of the internal places you pry the epoxy off of you can't
wire wheel thus you
just paint right over the rust with the por15 (it can go right
over the rust as long as
it's not loose).
Let me clarify the part of the car I'm talking about, this would be
the front lip of the frame that the metal gas tank cover rests on, if
you are talking about the cover itself your best bet is to get a
refurbished one from PJ Gradys about $100 with exchange I think, he
doesn't even mess with them he sends them out and I think has them
powder coated.
Then I paint it with two coats of por15 1st coat I use black then the
gray so you can delineate the two and see were you have been (the
gray
doesn't look too bad compared to original).
I hope this ans. your question, you can spend lots of time on this
but(like I have and my frame is in good shape) but it's truly
important if you want to preserve your car.
Regards,
Hi Nick,
I'm scraping the bad parts, I use a die grinder with a 2" wire wheel
were I can reach and a screw driver in the internal places (front
forks, were the steering rack bolts in etc.) Rob Grady added a 3/4"
whole to gain access in the front (you add the whole on the bottom of
the frame in the midpoint between the other 3/4" wholes that already
exist)by the lower control arms.
I think the por 15 is great stuff! you want to transfer it into
smaller containers once opened so there is less air contact with the
stuff that's left over and ideally you get the second coat on while
the 1st coat is still almost tacky.
I am using the gloss black for the first coat and then the gray so I
can see were I have done the work already, the gray is a reasonably
close match to the original gray so it looks good all by itself. I
will have it finished in the original gray epoxy when I'm done.
Have lots of gloves handy when using the por 15.
Regards,
Mike
vin 3113
NY Lic DLORIANN
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 17:59:02 EDT
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Vac Line- was: Blower Motor Reversed??
In a message dated 4/24/00 5:22:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
daleschaub@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
<< A vacuum line runs just in front of the engine and parallel to the fire
wall. If this vacuum line gets disconnected, the blower will actually feel
like it has reversed itself. This happened to me when I replaced the water
pump. >>
Are you referring to the thin, (like a coat hanger) line that runs down to
the hot water switch?
-Wayne
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 13:26:00 EDT
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: DeLorean Car Show Update
Well it looks like Ohio finally decided to come
I got a bunch of <A HREF="" href="http://deloreancarshow.com">http://deloreancarshow.com">registrations</A>
I have been asked recently to update the states
OHIO 14
Illinois 11
New Jersey 8
Indiana 7
a bunch at 5 and 6
Canada 2
Saudi Arabia 1
Keep the registrations coming
and thanks
Ken
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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 11:02:56 PDT
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DMC Sports Car Paperwork Wanted
Hello list,
I'm looking to buy and complete my 1981 DeLorean Paperwork for our beloved
sports car. I have the 81 manual, vinyl case, DMC warranties, DMC
Maintenance schedule etc.
What I'm looking for are the original paperwork:
CRAIG STEREO WARRANTY
GOODYEAR NORTH AMERICA TIRE WARRANTY
DMC TEL. HELP CARD (800)
Does anyone have these items for sale in excellent/very good condition?
E-mail me privately for a good price!
Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
NORWAY
VIN # 6759
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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 13:54:08 CDT
From: "Sean Spurlock" <sean_dmc1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: door adjustment
Group,
Both my doors catch when they close. It takes a very hard slam to
shut the drivers side door. What can I do to adjust this? I am used to
adjusting conventional doors, so any help would be nice!
Sean
7003
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 12:06:11 -0700
From: Trevor Johnson <comet6974@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Stainless labels and other things...
# 6974, had a clock in the tape deck door, but the display died, so now
it has a cd player.
With out the display it was almost impossible to tun the radio, and the
tape deck chewed up tapes, were the clockless ones any better?
Trevor Johnson
# 6974 & soon to be 4???
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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 17:28:44 EDT
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: Acceleration FIXED!!
Hello List,
I was so worried that my acceleration problem was going to be something
expensive. It turns out that a mouse at through the acceleration enrichment
circuit wires. I hooked them up and took the car down the street and it
performed PERFECT. This is the first time it would even go past 30 mph
without any hesitation. I would like to thank everyone that replied.
dave
#2496
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