[DML] Digest Number 1840
[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]
[DML] Digest Number 1840
- From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: 18 Jan 2004 14:58:41 -0000
There are 23 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Choppy wipers / leaks
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Brake Master Cylinder
From: "jdub" <doki_pen@xxxxxxxxx>
3. 2 SUBJECTS: TRANSMISSION & CAR INSURANCE
From: "Richard T. Herrick, MD" <docrth@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Diamond in the rough?
From: "jerjoyner" <jjdyn0mite@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. DMC Body Panel Dies
From: "Charlie" <charlie_az@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Delorean at Toyota Dealership in Dallas
From: "davvet2" <davvet2@xxxxxxxxx>
7. rusty tank filler
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Pictures of the raffle car
From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
9. Re: DMC Body Panel Dies
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Choppy wipers / leaks
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683@xxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Brake Master Cylinder
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683@xxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Brake Master Cylinder
From: "Bill Lane" <blane@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: rusty tank filler
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: DMC Body Panel Dies
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113@xxxxxxxxx>
15. A new sound...
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes@xxxxxxxxx>
16. THREE SUBJETS RUST SPOTS AND SHIFTER BOOT AND MANUAL SHIFTER FIXED
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski@xxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: DMC Body Panel Dies
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Supercharger help
From: "mcookwwi" <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Re: Grady "Resold" parts. (WAS: RACK UPDATE)
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
20. Re: A new sound...
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
21. Re: Diamond in the rough?
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
22. Re: THREE SUBJETS RUST SPOTS AND SHIFTER BOOT AND MANUAL SHIFTER FIXED
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Re: A new sound...
From: tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 03:25:08 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Choppy wipers / leaks
I would hesitate to recomend using steel wool. It could scratch and
you wind up with all the tiny bits of metal that will eventually rust
and stain. First try alcohol and paper towels. The idea is to remove
the wax which causes the blades to move in a jerky motion. After you
get the windshield (windscreen) really clean THEN you can put the
Rain-X on it. You can also take the wiper blades off and wash them
with dish washing liquid to remove any sap or wax on them. It also
rejuvenates the edge a little. This works on non-Delorean cars also.
If the edge of the wiper blade is not square or is ragedy they should
be replaced. Triple edge blades require a lot more spring pressure on
them to work so you may never get them to work right on the Delorean.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683@xxxx> wrote:
> Try 0000 (4 ZERO's) grade steel wool on the windshield with windshield
> washer fluid. This will take all of the wax and built up dirt and other
> stuff of your windshield you just cant see. I worked at a Ford
> dealership and we used this to prep new cars and remove all of the
> shipping spray film off the windows.
>
> Mark
>
>
> On Friday, January 16, 2004, at 01:59 PM, Robert Moseley wrote:
>
> > Does anyone else have the problem with "choppy wipers"?
> > What I mean is, the wipers do not glide smoothly, but rather are
> > choppy across the windshield.
> > I have new 22" Triple-Edge wipers, the windshield is clean
> > and has been recently treated with Rain-X.
> > None of this has helped.
> > Any ideas?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 19:50:07 -0800
From: "jdub" <doki_pen@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Brake Master Cylinder
Hi there everyone,
I need to replace the master cylinder in my D. Am I stuck ordering one
specifically for my D? or are there other options? ie: master cylinder from
a saab or volvo or something less exotic? Thanks!
Jon
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 22:53:41 -0500
From: "Richard T. Herrick, MD" <docrth@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 2 SUBJECTS: TRANSMISSION & CAR INSURANCE
2 SUBJECTS: TRANSMISSION & CAR INSURANCE
· I HAVE MOVED FROM ALABAMA AND MY PREVIOUS INSURER (CINCINNATI)
DOES NOT WRITE CAR INSURANCE IN THIS PART OF FLORIDA. THEREFORE, I NEED CAR
INS. ON FL WEST COAST BEACHES AREA.
ALSO, I NEED INFO ON CLUTCH/MASTER AND SLAVE CYLINDER. I USE MY CAR DAILY TO
AND FROM WORK.
· BEING IN A NEW AREA I'M HAVING TO ADJUST TO FINDING A NEW MECHANIC.
· WHEN THE TRANSMISSION STARTED TO GRIND GOING INTO REVERSE - NO
PROBLEM WITH THE ENGINE NOT RUNNING- I TOOK MY CAR TO A SHOP SPECIALIZING IN
HIGH-END AND IMPORT CARS. THINKING THAT THIS WOULD BE A SAFER AVENUE THAN A
TEXACO STATION MECHANIC. THEY REPLACED THE MASTER CYLINDER ($225.00) AND
THE SLAVE CYLINDER (139.15) PLUS $440 IN LABOR. ALMOST IMMEDIATELY I
NOTICED THAT THE CAR WAS RUNNING MORE POORLY THAN WHEN THEY STARTED. I
IMMEDIATELY RETURNED THE CAR. ALMOST 4 WEEKS LATER I GET CALLED AND TOLD
THAT THE REPAIRS ARE FINISHED AND THAT THEY HAD TO REPLACE THE CLUTCH. THE
ADDITIONAL COST IS NOW AN ADDITIONAL $1500.
DOES THIS COMPUTE?
Dick Herrick
docrth@xxxxxxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 05:56:26 -0000
From: "jerjoyner" <jjdyn0mite@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Diamond in the rough?
I found out about a delorean that has been sitting out for at least 1-
2 years without being moved, completely uncovered and exposed to the
elements (whatever elements Georgia has to offer) in someone's yard.
I drove by today to look at it and just from the street it looks like
the body itself is in good condition (i.e. no gross damage) but
before I bothered the owner about it I thought I would try to garner
some info.
I'm looking for something that can be driven in the short term with
little concern for cosmetics at this time with long term plans of
possible restoration and/or engine modification (after 4-5 years.)
Basically something I can get running and get me to work (5 miles
away) for a couple years.
I'm well aware of the $20,000 rule and I know that in the long run
I'll probably end up spending more on the vehicle than if I bought
one in good condition now, but a) I don't have the money now and b)
when I do have the money (i.e. after residency) I think restoration
would be a fun way to spend it (it's the journey etc...).
Anyway, on to the questions. I'm going to assume that this is a
manual transmission car at this point because if it's not I don't
want it anyway.
1) mechanically what are the most important things I should know or
look for when I approach the owner?
2) Since there are no DMC mechanics that I am aware of in the area,
who are typically the mechanics that would understand this car the
best (import/volvo/renault types specifically or just the best
mechanic I can find regardless of background)? I'm not a mechanic (I
only know how to put humans back together) and have only ever changed
oil and belts and such.
3)I've been through the delorean.com checklist for buying a
delorean. I'm going to assume that this car will have some rust, how
do I know if it's beyond salvagable?
4) estimate for repairs of all the known/recalled areas (electrical
stuff etc...) to make this a fairly reliable vehicle (assuming
everything else is half decent).
5) What initial steps should be taken in a car that has been sitting
this long (will assume it wasn't properly prepared for a long term
slumber)
6) I won't worry about the interior too much at this point, but I'll
assume the dash is shot and the interior will probably be hosed at
this point, what does it usually take to get the headliners repaired
so I could see out the windshield?
7) Given the limited amount of information that I have at this point,
what is a ROUGH estimate of the cars worth (let's assume it's an 81
manual, black interior, 50k miles, and not currently in running
condition) so I'll know how much to consider offering.
I plan to try talking to the owner in the next week or so and hope
they will allow me to take some pictures and get more specifics
soon. At this point I'm kind of looking for general information
concerning a car that has been poorly cared for for at least 1-2
years if not more.
Thanks for any help.
JJ
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 06:38:42 -0000
From: "Charlie" <charlie_az@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DMC Body Panel Dies
Hi, I was reading about what happend to the body panel dies for the
DMC-12 and how they ended up not at the bottom of the sea like the
titanic so to speak but with some fisherman who used them as weights
for their fishing nets in Ireland back in the 80's.
The queston is did anyone try to buy them, in the past?? to save
them?
Just like to know..:)
CG
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 11:52:35 -0000
From: "davvet2" <davvet2@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delorean at Toyota Dealership in Dallas
I have an '81, 0002173 that was owned by Powers Nissan in Oklahoma
City. The story I was told was that it was Mr. Powers personal car
and ended up in his collection. Anyway, the guy I got it from had to
do the "flush out the old gas routine" before it would run. When I
bought it, the car had 9800 miles on it; it now has 10,003.
It sits under a cover in my garage -- and I haven't driven it in 3
years, but I did put Stabil in the gallon of gas in the tank, but
I'll probably need to pump the old gas out anyway when I drive it
again.
I've been ill, and unable to take care of the car and have been
thinking of selling it - but the prices are so low (I paid a lot to
get it) I may just have to hold it awhile longer.
Jim
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Brian McCool" <bjmccool@xxxx> wrote:
> That would be :
> Dub Richardson Ford
> 3815 North May
> Oklahoma City, OK 73112
> Phone at the time was 405-946-3381
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jerry Harry" <jlharry@xxxx>
> To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2004 10:23 PM
> Subject: Re: [DML] Delorean at Toyota Dealership in Dallas
>
>
> > Robert, Who was the dealer that had the 82 model.
> > Since I live here in oklahoma city thought I might check on it
for the
> > list..
> > Jerry
> > Vin# 4890
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "robert parker" <roberthparker@xxxx>
> > To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2004 2:34 PM
> > Subject: RE: [DML] Delorean at Toyota Dealership in Dallas
> >
> >
> > > There is also, I believe, a Datsun dealership in Okla. City
with an
> unsold
> > > '82.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 12:21:25 -0000
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: rusty tank filler
The inside of the filler neck to the gas tank on my car is rusty. The
rust seems to only be on the metal tab that flips up (roll over
valve?) I want to replace this and any other rusty parts in that
area while i am in there. All advice is appreciated!
thanks
Adam 16683
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 07:21:37 EST
From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: Pictures of the raffle car
For those of you wanting to see the progress of the raffle car you can now
see the pictures.
The car is being refurbished from top to bottom so the winner will have a
nice reliable car.
As you will see by the photo even the engine is getting a facelift. Mostly
outside work and a good cleaning. Most of the switches on the engine have been
replaced and the wait until you see the valve covers (not shown yet) They go
on next week when the engine goes back in.
The raffle car has new carpet. The bonnet area is in concours condition, its
flawless, Facias painted (you read the post on the facias 1/16/2004) and the
undercarriage has been cleaned and all necessary upgrades and cleanup done.
This is one nice car
and
Its just one ticket away from being yours.
If you want a ticket go to www.deloreancarshow.com and click on raffle.
Raffle chances are $50 each. A minimum of 150 need to be sold for the car to
raffle and a max of 500 will be sold.
Ken
www.deloreancarshow.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 09:19:40 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DMC Body Panel Dies
Dear GC,
According to John Delorean, He sent his people to Ireland to buy dies.
However, "someone" repeated shot at them and in fear for their lives
they left the country.
The question of who the "someone" was is very interesting. We know that
the Irish people had no problem with JZD, After all, he created
thousands of jobs and was the first employer to jointly employee
Catholics and Protestants without discrimination.
HOwever, the British government (Thacher-Reagan) did not like him. They
claimed that the jobs he created was giving people money that they spent
on the IRA. The funny thing about this claim was that the unemployment
money paid to the workers and the free medical benefits over the next 4
years exceeded the money Delorean has paid hs workers. So really their
argument (JUST LIKE THE IRAQ WAR) were baseless. The real reason behind
putting DMC out of business IMHO was pressure from US car companies.
The latest investigations of assassinations and one bombing in Ireland
have clearly shown that the British government was behind many of them
and not the IRA. Very similar to the British government making their
solders "expendable" in the latest Iraq war. A few "irish" for car
money or a few solders for "oil" money, what the difference?
THe story of how (Thacher-Reagan) changed the accounting laws to put DMC
in the "red" even though the company was in the black according to
international standard accounting practices is well documented. DMC paid
98% on the dollar during the bankruptcy hearings.
So who shot at Delorean's people? Hint- it wasn't the Irish people.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 09:30:29 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Choppy wipers / leaks
Now i have been using steel wool for 10+ years now with no scratches on
any window, home or car. I was using this on new cars at a dealership,
i seen it used at shops that porter cars and i think they know more
than you. Read a package of 0000 (4 zero's) and it will say it is safe
for windows on some brands.
Rain-x will cause your wipers to jump eventually across your window.
Mark
On Friday, January 16, 2004, at 09:25 PM, David Teitelbaum wrote:
> I would hesitate to recomend using steel wool. It could scratch and
> you wind up with all the tiny bits of metal that will eventually rust
> and stain. First try alcohol and paper towels. The idea is to remove
> the wax which causes the blades to move in a jerky motion. After you
> get the windshield (windscreen) really clean THEN you can put the
> Rain-X on it. You can also take the wiper blades off and wash them
> with dish washing liquid to remove any sap or wax on them. It also
> rejuvenates the edge a little. This works on non-Delorean cars also.
> If the edge of the wiper blade is not square or is ragedy they should
> be replaced. Triple edge blades require a lot more spring pressure on
> them to work so you may never get them to work right on the Delorean.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683@xxxx> wrote:
>> Try 0000 (4 ZERO's) grade steel wool on the windshield with windshield
>> washer fluid. This will take all of the wax and built up dirt and
>> other
>> stuff of your windshield you just cant see. I worked at a Ford
>> dealership and we used this to prep new cars and remove all of the
>> shipping spray film off the windows.
>>
>> Mark
>>
>>
>> On Friday, January 16, 2004, at 01:59 PM, Robert Moseley wrote:
>>
>>> Does anyone else have the problem with "choppy wipers"?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 09:34:36 -0600
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Brake Master Cylinder
Try www.PJGrady.com, www.specialtauto.com, www.delorean.com, and
http://www.delorean-parts.com/
all of these vendors will give you the correct part.
Mark
On Friday, January 16, 2004, at 09:50 PM, jdub wrote:
> Hi there everyone,
> I need to replace the master cylinder in my D. Am I stuck ordering
> one
> specifically for my D? or are there other options? ie: master cylinder
> from
> a saab or volvo or something less exotic? Thanks!
>
> Jon
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 12:09:57 -0500
From: "Bill Lane" <blane@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Brake Master Cylinder
Jon,
Why would you be stuck with buying one from one of the vendors? At least,
you'll know you're getting the right part!
Bill Lane
#3635
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 16:24:44 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: rusty tank filler
It doesn't have to be replaced. You can remove it from the car,
disassemble it, wire brush it, reassemble, and reinstall in the car.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Adam 16683" <acprice1@xxxx> wrote:
> The inside of the filler neck to the gas tank on my car is rusty. The
> rust seems to only be on the metal tab that flips up (roll over
> valve?) I want to replace this and any other rusty parts in that
> area while i am in there. All advice is appreciated!
>
> thanks
> Adam 16683
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 19:35:32 -0000
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DMC Body Panel Dies
I believe there was an attempt made by a gentleman by the name of
Katz, but the brittish government never entertained his offer. I
think the dies themselves may have been made of stainless. the real
question is how to raise them, wonder if any Delorean owners would
be interested in a drive for the dies, but thats another issue
altogether.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 11:39:16 -0800 (PST)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: A new sound...
Hey there everyone!
As the time draws for 3299 to go get the tranny fixed again, I decided to take it out for a light, LIGHT drive just to keep the fluids moving and what not. A new sound has reared its ugly head; I'll describe it to the best of my ability. My tranny is an auto just FYI.
As I drove to a stop light, I slowly pressed the brakes (I already need new front rotors). While the car was idling, this noise began. The best way to describe it : you know the "radio fuzz" sound you get when you change radio stations with a turn knob radio dial? The imcomprehendable "bzzzZZzzzZzz" you get with turning the radio dial around, or when your TV shows nothing but "snow"? That's exactly the noise I was hearing. It wasn't very loud at all, and it went away after about 5 seconds. It did it one more time on the way home. When it happened this second time, I hit the accelerator; it had no effect on the sound. There didn't seem to be any direct correlation between the accelerator and this new sound. It didn't sound "rotational"; the sound didn't seem to run in consistant cycles. I parked the car, put it in park, and let it idle. Nothing happened. Hit the accelerator while in park - no "radio fuzz" sound.
To say the least, very unusual. I had to go to work immediately after I parked the car, so I haven't had much time to really diagnose the sound or its origins. Any ideas anyone?
Man, when they said the DeLorean was a lifetime project car, they weren't lying ;).
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 11:54:10 -0800 (PST)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: THREE SUBJETS RUST SPOTS AND SHIFTER BOOT AND MANUAL SHIFTER FIXED
Question on rust, years ago when I bought my Delorean I used steel wool to polish the car, as I was told, I didn't know any better. Needless to say, now I'm left with steel rust spots embedded in my hood, fenders and other panels (NOT PRETTY). It cleans up nice, but comes back 3-4 months later. Is there any way to rid of this problem FOREVER????? Or am I screwed!!
Also does any know where I can get my shifter boot redone(just the leather)? I can't remember but I think someone on the list could do it for $55, a few weeks ago.
Shifter linkage fixed was just adjustment, no lubrication was needed. However, one extra bolt that was missing off the cable adjustment bracket (it needs two bolts) helped a bit. All gears shift smoother than ever now!
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 21:04:50 -0000
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DMC Body Panel Dies
You may find an article in Deloreans Magazine interesting, "Did
british government ditch Delorean dies intentionally?". Page 17, Vol
2 #1. You can get it at www.delorean.com. It includes color
underwater photo's provided by Marvin Katz.
Stephen
Vin 3601
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 00:51:12 -0000
From: "mcookwwi" <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Supercharger help
I am beginning planning for my install of the vortech supercharger I
purchased.
A few questions I have that may save me some time and mistakes:
1) What is a safe boost level (psi) to use with this setup on a stock
delo engine? I am thinking about getting a 10 psi pulley and using an
adjustable pop-off valve to limit the max boost to whatever I set. Is
this possible? Where can I get a pop-off valve? (I'm not talking
about a blow-off valve)
2) What timing should I use?
3) I assume high-octane rating fuel and possibly H2O/methanol
injection may not be a bad idea?
4) Should I use an aftercooler? (where should I put it and where can
I purchase one that will fit?)
5) What is the best way to get extra fuel into the system under boost?
6) What system can I piggy-back to the existing system to control all
of this or should I just replace the existing ignition and fuel
system?
Is there anything else I am leaving out?
Thanks for any help....
#10901 will soon be worthy of it's looks!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 20:09:28 EST
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Grady "Resold" parts. (WAS: RACK UPDATE)
In a message dated 1/16/04 8:54:22 PM Central Standard Time, CBL302@xxxxxxx
writes:
My point here is you cannot judge a part(or drivetrain) by outside
appearences,just cause something looks dull and ugly,doesn't mean,it
is not a perfectly functioning part or item.(it's what is on the
INSIDE that counts!!)Hope this makes some sense.
Claude
00570
<<<<
True, but unfortunately most of us are trying to make our cars look brand
new, not 20 years old. especially true for interior parts. As for parts the
average person doesn't see, a clean bright drivetrain and components is much more
impressive and gives the feeling of top-quality - especially at car shows
where an owner is attempting to show off how awesome DeLoreans are. who wants to
show a car with dull and ugly parts?
Andy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 20:14:16 EST
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: A new sound...
In a message dated 1/17/04 2:26:47 PM Central Standard Time,
hispanicangeleyes@xxxxxxxxx writes:
There didn't seem to be any direct correlation between the accelerator and
this new sound. It didn't sound "rotational"; the sound didn't seem to run in
consistant cycles. I parked the car, put it in park, and let it idle. Nothing
happened. Hit the accelerator while in park - no "radio fuzz" sound.
To say the least, very unusual. I had to go to work immediately after I
parked the car, so I haven't had much time to really diagnose the sound or its
origins. Any ideas anyone?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Was the sound coming over your stereo speakers? maybe it is interference
from when the fans come on (you said it started at idle). if it is coming from
the speakers, you need to go through your grounds, especially in the front
subframe and clean them up.
Andy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 20:32:42 EST
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Diamond in the rough?
In a message dated 1/17/04 8:52:54 AM Central Standard Time,
jjdyn0mite@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
7) Given the limited amount of information that I have at this point,
what is a ROUGH estimate of the cars worth (let's assume it's an 81
manual, black interior, 50k miles, and not currently in running
condition) so I'll know how much to consider offering.
>>>>>>>
This is a very difficult question. The first thing i would ask is, why
exactly is it sitting in the yard without even a cover over it? i would assume
that the car broke down and they just parked it. what was the nature of the
break down? did it overheat? if so, then you are potentially looking at many
thousands of dollars just to get the car running.
IF the car were in perfect shape, it would be worth maybe $15K-$23K,
depending on its show worthiness. If the car has overheated and the interior is as
bad you say, i would not offer more than $6K for a neglected wreck of a car. in
any case, you should really find an experienced owner to take a look at it
for you and let you know what is garbage that will need some serious $$$ to make
right before you make an offer. people get into trouble making offers on
cars that have not been inspected by a more knowledgable person.
how nice do you want it to be when you are done? I bought my car for $15K
(all systems worked and was 90% cosmetically acceptable) and have since done
almost everything to make it 100% reliable, show worthy, and to my comfort
tastes. I want my car to be a damn-near perfect driver. when i am done in 2005 i
will have spent about $35,000 total (incl. purchase price) but it will be one
of the best out there. imagine how much money YOU will have to spend just to
get it half decent!
in order to fix this car, you will have to have fairly deep pockets (sounds
like your job will supply that some day) and a passion for a piece of history
that you can drive to work if you desire or show at a public event (and
probably win a trophy). in all honesty, this car is probably not an economically
good choice but must come the heart. if you don't have the passion to put more
money into this car than you will ever get back, you should consider a
$13K-$16K driver. there are plenty of decent cars in that price range that don't
need much to get 'pretty good'. the best cars will almost always eat more money
than they are worth. you really need the passion to make that sacrifice.
but then again, if you are crazy enough and have more money than you know
what to do with, you could take ANY hulking wreck and turn into a show winner!
Good luck,
Andy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 02:38:55 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: THREE SUBJETS RUST SPOTS AND SHIFTER BOOT AND MANUAL SHIFTER FIXED
To get rid of the rust spots on the S/S try going over it with #120
sandpaper and then use a blending pad to finish up.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, John Podlewski <john_podlewski@xxxx>
wrote:
> Question on rust, years ago when I bought my Delorean I used steel
wool to polish the car, as I was told, I didn't know any better.
Needless to say, now I'm left with steel rust spots embedded in my
hood, fenders and other panels (NOT PRETTY). It cleans up nice, but
comes back 3-4 months later. Is there any way to rid of this problem
FOREVER????? Or am I screwed!!
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 04:36:49 -0000
From: tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: A new sound...
It is possible that you were hearing the frequency valve doing its
thing. It has a definite buzzing sound. If it was more of a hiss
than a buzz, perhaps it was your mode switch? Without more
information, it's kind of difficult to propose anything else. Let
us know if you can better locate the area where the sound is coming
from. The List may be able to give better advice then.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248 (Winged1)
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Enid/Jeremiah
<hispanicangeleyes@xxxx> wrote:
> Hey there everyone!
>
While the car was idling, this noise began. The best way to
describe it : you know the "radio fuzz" sound you get when you
change radio stations with a turn knob radio dial? The
imcomprehendable "bzzzZZzzzZzz" you get with turning the radio dial
around, or when your TV shows nothing but "snow"? That's exactly
the noise I was hearing. It wasn't very loud at all, and it went
away after about 5 seconds. It did it one more time on the way
home. When it happened this second time, I hit the accelerator; it
had no effect on the sound. There didn't seem to be any direct
correlation between the accelerator and this new sound. It didn't
sound "rotational"; the sound didn't seem to run in consistant
cycles. I parked the car, put it in park, and let it idle. Nothing
happened. Hit the accelerator while in park - no "radio fuzz" sound.
>
> To say the least, very unusual. I had to go to work immediately
after I parked the car, so I haven't had much time to really
diagnose the sound or its origins. Any ideas anyone?
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN