[DML] Re: AC compressor rework

["David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Your system is probably low on oil since you say the discharge hose
has been spliced. Also since you are draining the compressor and
replacing the accumulator (and since that is where most of the oil
winds up, in those 2 places) You should have most of the oil out of
it. If the insides look all corroded then you should flush the coils,
compressor, and hoses. Get out your Workshop Manual, make the tool to
measure the oil level (you can find out how over at the Sanden
website) and refill with fresh oil. If you want you can probably get
away with an ounce or 2 less than a factory fill but a slight overfill
won't hurt either. When you drain out the old stuff from the
compressor you will have a better idea what to do when you see the
quantity and the color.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


-- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Tom Tait" <TTait@...> wrote:
>
> Ahh yes - I did mean a stock orifice tube, not expansion or VOV.
> 
>  
> 
> I am also taking your advice on the compressor,  it ain't broke so...
> Thanks for the kick to the forehead there.
> 
>  
> 
> I do have the tools (not the compressor ones, but that is moot)
> including a proper vacuum pump, manifold, gauges, etc. 
> 
>  
> 
> I've purchased a small stash of R12 (I have the IMACA license) and will
> attempt to "donate' the Freeze12 properly when I initially evacuate the
> system, but I know it has a blend of old R12 and freeze12 in there right
> now so I'm not optimistic that I'll find any takers there, no one wants
> cross contaminated gasses.  I'll likely get an old spare tank, vacuum it
> down and pump the gas into it and save it till the next hazardous waste
> turn in day.
> 
>  
> 
> My intention for flushing was dual fold though,  certainly there may be
> contamination, but also I have no real idea how much oil is really in
> the system today,  much less how much more I will need to add when I
> replace one hose, a hub and the accumulator,  so I thought I'd punt -
> flush and refill.  What's your advice there?
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> ________________________________
> 
> From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf
> Of David Teitelbaum
> Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 6:54 AM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Re: AC compressor rework
> 
>  
> 
> I understand your plan better now but I disagree with some of it. I
> agree that you should replace the condenser hose. Once you remove it
> you will be able to tell how contaminated your system is. I also agree
> that you should replace the accumulator. Your system does not have an
> expansion valve. It uses an "Orifice Tube" unless it has been modified
> from stock. If the system is contaminated you should replace it. I
> still disagree with replacing the compressor. The oil should be
> removed and replaced but if it is working (and you say it is) and not
> making bad noises, it is probably fine. If you are staying with R-12
> you probably do not need to change any of the other hoses. Pressure
> test the system and when you refill add leak dye. If you really want
> to get the most out of the system use coil cleaner on the evap and
> cond coil on the outside fins and tubing. It is taking a big chance
> using parts tht are not "right" for the car. Just because a compressor
> may look like it is correct on the outside, inside it can be very
> different. At least the compressor that is on the car now is correct.
> You say it is working so if the only reason you are changing it is
> because you can get another one cheap, but has to be modified, I fail
> to see the logic.
> If you do not have the proper tools, a vacuum pump, gauges, tools,
> etc, you should not be messing with the refrigerent. Do the mechanical
> work and then take it to a shop for the testing, vacuuming, and
> charging. A proper vacuum pump that can get into the micron range is
> expensive but you cannot do good work without it. An A/C system should
> only be "flushed" if it is contaminated. Usually done with R-11 or
> nitrogen.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> [moderator snip]
>




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